Date   

Re: Galley fridge failing

Ian Townsend
 

Kent, we replaced our fridge 4 years ago with the upright Isotherm Cruise 130 model. Aside from the occasional thermostat change (twice), it’s performed well for us. We bought the ‘Drinks’ version that doesn’t have a freezer compartment. We mounted the wood door to the fridge door with liquid nails. 

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Mar 13, 2022, at 1:02 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi all, hope everyone is getting back out on the water after a rather bizarre two years.
Our galley fridge isn't keeping things cold enough any more.  I've had it worked on several times over the last 10 years and think it may be time to consider a new fridge.  It has always run waaay more than the boxes under the dinette seats, and I suspect it doesn't have efficient insulation.
I read Mark's fix from a few years ago, but I've spent enough money and time on this unit that I could have bought a new one and saved the money and headaches.

Has anyone replaced the upright galley fridge with a new fridge-only unit?  Drawers vs upright?  What model?

I think I could make/install wooden panels that would keep the original look.
I don't want to get into plumbing for a water cooled unit.

Thanks for any help.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Galley fridge failing

ERIC LICHTY & ROBYN ATKINSON
 

Hello Kent and Iris and Amelians-
Eric and Robyn here, LIBBY SM #196 based out of Los Angeles.  We replaced fridge two years ago with double chest drawer unit from Vitrifrigo, integral cooling unit, 110v/24v  (for US configuration).  Chest drawers are the way to go especially in a seaway.  Most manufacturers are offering something similar.  This particular model was a close fit, but working flawlessly so far.  Added feature is ability to make one chest a freezer, good backup if underbench freezer packs it up.  Highly recommended.  Good sailing all.  


On Sun, Mar 13, 2022 at 10:02 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi all, hope everyone is getting back out on the water after a rather bizarre two years.
Our galley fridge isn't keeping things cold enough any more.  I've had it worked on several times over the last 10 years and think it may be time to consider a new fridge.  It has always run waaay more than the boxes under the dinette seats, and I suspect it doesn't have efficient insulation.
I read Mark's fix from a few years ago, but I've spent enough money and time on this unit that I could have bought a new one and saved the money and headaches.

Has anyone replaced the upright galley fridge with a new fridge-only unit?  Drawers vs upright?  What model?

I think I could make/install wooden panels that would keep the original look.
I don't want to get into plumbing for a water cooled unit.

Thanks for any help.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243



--
Eric C. Lichty
ECLMARINE, LLC.
cell:      425 354-7720


Re: Onan quit

 

It sounds like you have a fuel problem which was exasperated when you replaced the secondary fuel filter, probably allowing air into the fuel system. It was running poorly before, now not at all.

Bill Kinney has a lot of experience with this model Onan. Bill's contact is Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> and Karen's is Karen Smith <kls6917@...>. They may have some specific advice, Bill may be able to work on it and/or refer someone who is reliable.

Bill




CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sun, Mar 13, 2022 at 12:21 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi again,
My Onan MDKAL 6.5 KW genset has failed.  One day working fine, next day started fine, then right away seemed sluggish and "hunting" with rpms going up and down. None of 220 equipment worked. I shut down, and when I went below saw that the fuel solenoid engaged when starting, but disengaged when I let go of the start switch.  If I held it open after starting, it still ran sluggishly.  No breakers tripped.  I thought it seemed like a fuel issue, and did the following:
*Cleaned all contacts at starter. Ground solenoid, and fuel solenoid. No change.
*Cracked output from lift pump and powered it with 12v. Could hear it clicking and fuel poured out. No change.
*Replaced secondary fuel filter (Yanmar runs fine and no debris or water in Racors), bled fuel lines.  Now won't start at all.
*Changed relays in control box one at a time.  Still won't start.

No breakers tripping. In the past when the exhaust temp sensor failed, the red breaker switch tripped.

It's not looking like I'll find a mechanic in Bahamas to help.

Any suggestions?

Recommended Onan mechanic in FtLauderdale?

Thanks again,

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Onan quit

Courtney Gorman
 

What did the shutdown error say?
# of flashes then check manual for issues 


On Mar 13, 2022, at 1:21 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again,
My Onan MDKAL 6.5 KW genset has failed.  One day working fine, next day started fine, then right away seemed sluggish and "hunting" with rpms going up and down. None of 220 equipment worked. I shut down, and when I went below saw that the fuel solenoid engaged when starting, but disengaged when I let go of the start switch.  If I held it open after starting, it still ran sluggishly.  No breakers tripped.  I thought it seemed like a fuel issue, and did the following:
*Cleaned all contacts at starter. Ground solenoid, and fuel solenoid. No change.
*Cracked output from lift pump and powered it with 12v. Could hear it clicking and fuel poured out. No change.
*Replaced secondary fuel filter (Yanmar runs fine and no debris or water in Racors), bled fuel lines.  Now won't start at all.
*Changed relays in control box one at a time.  Still won't start.

No breakers tripping. In the past when the exhaust temp sensor failed, the red breaker switch tripped.

It's not looking like I'll find a mechanic in Bahamas to help.

Any suggestions?

Recommended Onan mechanic in FtLauderdale?

Thanks again,

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Test

 

test received


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sun, Mar 13, 2022 at 12:02 PM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Test

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Onan quit

karkauai
 

Hi again,
My Onan MDKAL 6.5 KW genset has failed.  One day working fine, next day started fine, then right away seemed sluggish and "hunting" with rpms going up and down. None of 220 equipment worked. I shut down, and when I went below saw that the fuel solenoid engaged when starting, but disengaged when I let go of the start switch.  If I held it open after starting, it still ran sluggishly.  No breakers tripped.  I thought it seemed like a fuel issue, and did the following:
*Cleaned all contacts at starter. Ground solenoid, and fuel solenoid. No change.
*Cracked output from lift pump and powered it with 12v. Could hear it clicking and fuel poured out. No change.
*Replaced secondary fuel filter (Yanmar runs fine and no debris or water in Racors), bled fuel lines.  Now won't start at all.
*Changed relays in control box one at a time.  Still won't start.

No breakers tripping. In the past when the exhaust temp sensor failed, the red breaker switch tripped.

It's not looking like I'll find a mechanic in Bahamas to help.

Any suggestions?

Recommended Onan mechanic in FtLauderdale?

Thanks again,

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Sharki engine replacement

Dennis Johns
 

Looks like you had to do away with the prop shaft alternator.  I did too when I went with a Volvo-Penta D60.  I miss it and haven't figured out what to do with the voltmeter gauge to the left of the companion way...

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121

On Sun, Mar 13, 2022 at 8:43 AM Lance Leonard <Elscubano@...> wrote:
The yard is finishing installation of a Beta 62T in our Maramu. The only hiccup was the motor mounts, I had the engine shipped with the 22” wide mounts which fit the engine bed but wouldn’t allow enough adjustment to align the engine. S new mounts were fabricated as well as modifications to the engine bed.


Galley fridge failing

karkauai
 

Hi all, hope everyone is getting back out on the water after a rather bizarre two years.
Our galley fridge isn't keeping things cold enough any more.  I've had it worked on several times over the last 10 years and think it may be time to consider a new fridge.  It has always run waaay more than the boxes under the dinette seats, and I suspect it doesn't have efficient insulation.
I read Mark's fix from a few years ago, but I've spent enough money and time on this unit that I could have bought a new one and saved the money and headaches.

Has anyone replaced the upright galley fridge with a new fridge-only unit?  Drawers vs upright?  What model?

I think I could make/install wooden panels that would keep the original look.
I don't want to get into plumbing for a water cooled unit.

Thanks for any help.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Test

karkauai
 

Test

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Sharki engine replacement

Lance Leonard
 

The yard is finishing installation of a Beta 62T in our Maramu. The only hiccup was the motor mounts, I had the engine shipped with the 22” wide mounts which fit the engine bed but wouldn’t allow enough adjustment to align the engine. S new mounts were fabricated as well as modifications to the engine bed.


Re: Foresail Halyard Wrapping and/or Jamming

Matt Salatino
 

I need to adjust my previous comment about 2, A50’s experiencing halyard wrap. After discussing in that group, at least 4 people admitted to having this issue.


Re: Amel 39 #newboat

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222 <Bijorka@...>
 

Hey Adi
Yes 39/41 are the same i think the rick is the same too , by the 41 Amel pulls the hull in the heck area , so you have a litte box in the last 30 cm for fender ore other things

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Re: Amel 39 #newboat

Adi Hirzer.
 

Hi JB, 
yes, Renault Couach it is. 
ok, sounds like parts are not a nightmare to find. good to know. 
thanks a lot. 
Adi


Re: Amel 39 #newboat

Adi Hirzer.
 

Hey Elja, yes, this is the 39. mizzen boom protruding over stern. 

somebody said 39 and 41 are the same but the 41 is a bit longer aft. 
thank you for the picture. 



Re: DESSALATOR D60 gauge question - replacement gauge

Andreas Stuben
 
Edited

Thank you all.  I did inquire about the gauge at dessalator.com in France based on a recommendation from Bill Rouse.  I received a quote for 62 Euro for a Wika gauge 100 bar plus 60 Euro shipping.  I probably go this route or just get a gauge that matches the technical spec.  I do prefer the color coded scale if possible as anyone on board including guests or my mom will understand "green is good".

TDS meter is on the way, at about $13 on Amazon that was an easy decision.
--
Michael SM078
Currently Tahiti French Polynesia


Re: Foresail Halyard Wrapping and/or Jamming

 

Bill,

Here is a photo of the top of a mast that likely needs constant surveillance regarding halyard wrap. 
image.png

And here is a photo of halyard wrap about to happen, although probably it already has.
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Fri, Mar 11, 2022 at 11:23 AM Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:
I'll limit my comments to SM and 54, because those are the only Amels I have experience with.  For those boats, the comments from Amel and Bill R. are 100% correct. Any mistake with extra halyards (including the balooner halyard!) can lead to a wrap. and that can cause all kinds of trouble. No spare halyards of ANY flavor should ever be stored on the bow pulpit--EVER. Even at the dock, it is just too easy to forget to move them.  It would also be a very bad idea to ever run the genoa furler when a spinnaker or other extra sail is deployed.  None of these comments are at all unique to the Amel furling system, halyard wraps are a problem that needs addressing with EVERY roller furling headsail.

A halyard wrap is the only way I have seen to twist the rods that are used to stop the rotation of the upper part of the swivel that is connected to the genoa halyard.  Under normal use these rods have only trivial loads, they don't fail from time or use, they fail when somebody makes a mistake and wraps a halyard. 

If these rods are noticed to be twisted, the genoa should be either taken down (if it is unfurled) or left furled.  The furling motor should NOT be run until the cause of this has been understood, and someone has inspected the swivel and head stay.  If these rods have been twisted, it is very likely that the key that locates the lower part of the swivel in line with the balooner track has been sheared off.  When this happens the ability to lock the balooner mouse into the latch becomes a matter of luck as the latch rotates independent of the foil tracks.

If the swivel is tangled with second halyard, or is jammed for some other reason, the failure of this key allows the foil to rotate inside the swivel.  It's not a very free rotation, but it does limit the amount of torque that the furler can impart to the halyards tangled around the head stay.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hollywood, FL


Re: Foresail Halyard Wrapping and/or Jamming

Bill Kinney
 

I'll limit my comments to SM and 54, because those are the only Amels I have experience with.  For those boats, the comments from Amel and Bill R. are 100% correct. Any mistake with extra halyards (including the balooner halyard!) can lead to a wrap. and that can cause all kinds of trouble. No spare halyards of ANY flavor should ever be stored on the bow pulpit--EVER. Even at the dock, it is just too easy to forget to move them.  It would also be a very bad idea to ever run the genoa furler when a spinnaker or other extra sail is deployed.  None of these comments are at all unique to the Amel furling system, halyard wraps are a problem that needs addressing with EVERY roller furling headsail.

A halyard wrap is the only way I have seen to twist the rods that are used to stop the rotation of the upper part of the swivel that is connected to the genoa halyard.  Under normal use these rods have only trivial loads, they don't fail from time or use, they fail when somebody makes a mistake and wraps a halyard. 

If these rods are noticed to be twisted, the genoa should be either taken down (if it is unfurled) or left furled.  The furling motor should NOT be run until the cause of this has been understood, and someone has inspected the swivel and head stay.  If these rods have been twisted, it is very likely that the key that locates the lower part of the swivel in line with the balooner track has been sheared off.  When this happens the ability to lock the balooner mouse into the latch becomes a matter of luck as the latch rotates independent of the foil tracks.

If the swivel is tangled with second halyard, or is jammed for some other reason, the failure of this key allows the foil to rotate inside the swivel.  It's not a very free rotation, but it does limit the amount of torque that the furler can impart to the halyards tangled around the head stay.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hollywood, FL


Re: DESSALATOR D60 gauge question - replacement gauge

 

image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Fri, Mar 11, 2022 at 10:46 AM Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:
Running a watermaker without an accurate pressure gauge is truly flying blind.  Proper pressure is key to running these properly.  My guess is that there is something wrong with the gauge.  It looks like it has been removed in the past, the orientation is not what I would expect for the factory installation.

You are unlikely to find EXACTLY that gauge style, the color coded dial is a Dessalator special.  But any gauge for the right pressure range will work.  Pressure gauges like this are pretty standard in sizes and connections. Once you have it disassembled and in hand, matching with something commercially available should be pretty easy.  The normal working pressure for these membranes is about 50 bar, maximum rated pressure is 60 bar, and the watermaker should shut down at 65 bar.  I would chose a gauge with a maximum pressure rating of 75 0r 80 bar to get a good measuring range.  The option is to get it from Dessalator, if they can still get one of these the price they charge will make your eyes water.

On older units Dessalator  used gauges with real numbers so you could actually understand what was happening. I guess they figured that was too complicated and users couldn't be trusted with that information.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hollywood, FL


Re: DESSALATOR D60 gauge question - replacement gauge

Bill Kinney
 

Running a watermaker without an accurate pressure gauge is truly flying blind.  Proper pressure is key to running these properly.  My guess is that there is something wrong with the gauge.  It looks like it has been removed in the past, the orientation is not what I would expect for the factory installation.

You are unlikely to find EXACTLY that gauge style, the color coded dial is a Dessalator special.  But any gauge for the right pressure range will work.  Pressure gauges like this are pretty standard in sizes and connections. Once you have it disassembled and in hand, matching with something commercially available should be pretty easy.  The normal working pressure for these membranes is about 50 bar, maximum rated pressure is 60 bar, and the watermaker should shut down at 65 bar.  I would chose a gauge with a maximum pressure rating of 75 0r 80 bar to get a good measuring range.  The option is to get it from Dessalator, if they can still get one of these the price they charge will make your eyes water.

On older units Dessalator  used gauges with real numbers so you could actually understand what was happening. I guess they figured that was too complicated and users couldn't be trusted with that information.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hollywood, FL


Re: Sharki engine replacement

Damon Cofer
 

So from what I'm hearing is, that unless something major happens like cracking the block, you can rebuild the Perkins forever(?). Thanks to all!
D

On Fri, Mar 11, 2022, 09:57 Walter van Grieken <Vangriekenbladel@...> wrote:
Hello
i'm walter
are the proud owners of an amel sharki
we got an overhauled perkins 4108 last year
put back in our ship
did it myself
costs 3250
I bought the bike in the Netherlands
If you want I can put you in touch with the mechanic
greetings walter

Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPhone

Op 11 mrt. 2022 om 14:40 heeft Gerhard Mueller via groups.io <carcode@...> het volgende geschreven:

Very eager to get more informations about that task. I still have the old 4108 Perkins and either it will be repaired or replaced. Is the Beta 43 simple like the Perkins e.g. without electronics?
Reason to repair or replace the Perkins is some oil getting through the valve guidance of inlet or outlet valves and so the old Perkins uses some oil refill and smokes. But otherwise the engine runs fine, starts immediately and so I hesitated to do something. You know the rule: Never change a running system.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently North Sea, Germany

4761 - 4780 of 67101