Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leaking toilet pumps

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi Malcolm,
If you have the standard RM69 without locking handle, then this is not an uncommon problem. It may be the same on a locking handle model but I am not familiar with the sizes. If the shaft surface is in reasonable condition you can just replace the lipseal on the top of the pump assy. The original size is 10x19x7 but I use 10x19x6 which are more easily avaiable in the UK. If I cannot get seals with stainless springs then I remove the spring and replace it with an approriately sized nitrile O ring which acts as a spring and will not corrode.

From memory the size of the  O ring on the pump piston is 49x5.3x37.5 from but I keep both this size and 49x6 on hand as this larger size will take up a some wear if needed.
I have found these two items to be the most common to require replacement and as so little from a  non-marine supplier you can keep a bag full in stock!

RM are distributed by a number of companies and so spares should be available.
Plastimo do still list the toilet. Their part number for the standard unit is 403060 and the lockinghandle unit is 403089, unfortunately I do not have the part numbers for the spares kit but at least this may lead you to a spares kit.

Regards
Graham
Sharki 181 Zephyr




From: "Malcolm Armitage marmitage73@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Saturday, 23 August 2014, 10:36
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leaking toilet pumps

 
Hi
I got a problem with the toilet pumps leaking when in the flushing position. As you pump the plunger water comes out from around the shaft. I have not tried to take it to bits just yet. The label has come off but I don't think it's Jabsco it looks like NZ or LK?
 
If anyone could offer any advice I would really appreciate it.
 
Regards
 
Malcolm
SM 117
 



Gasket material

rossny@mail.com
 

Roy. Thanks for the offer. My 1989 Maramu # 261 could use about 25' (I did not measure yet) for the two forward and the smaller aft locker. If all is already spoken for then please post the source.
Eric. Bebe was the first to respond so I would be glad to split a roll with you if you are in NY.
Fair winds.
Ross
Maramu #261
Currently in Beaufort. NC
On the way to NYC.......


Re: Leaking toilet pumps

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Malcolm,Based on your hull #, I'm assuming you have a Raske & Van der Meyde RM 69. Jabsco also produced this toilet under a different name, but it is now obsolete, and not supported by Jabsco. With that said, Budget Marine in the Caribean seems to have all the parts available, and I'll include a link to the web site below. We recently acquired hull #72, and need parts for both toilets, and will be placing an order soon.

Regards,
Steve
S/V Aloha SM 72 (Currently in Brunswick, GA)

Caribbean's Leading Chandlery - Budget Marine

 




Re: Santorin Balooner

Ian Park
 

Everyone to their own choice.
I had an asymmetric on a removable bowsprit and Bamar furler on my last boat. Great for what it did. But it was not without it's occasional issue involving foredeck work

I'm 67 now and can do without squirming around the foredeck on a dark and breezy night. So the original Amel system suits down to the ground! And I didn't compound one error with a second. We wound in so small we were down to 5 knots running out the wind. All safely stored the next day and no distortion to the sails!

Ian. SN 96 Ocean Hobo


Re: Leaking toilet pumps

Ian Park
 

Malcolm
Jabsco has four bolts securing the base, mine has three. I replaced one pump with a plastimo which fits. Otherwise, try taking the pump off and tightening the nut at the base of the plunger and/or replacing the o ring. This should tighten the seal on the bore. It may well be the bore of the pump is worn and needs replacing. Around 60 to 70 euros depending where you are .

Ian SN96 Ocean Hobo


Leaking toilet pumps

Malcolm Armitage <marmitage73@...>
 

Hi
I got a problem with the toilet pumps leaking when in the flushing position. As you pump the plunger water comes out from around the shaft. I have not tried to take it to bits just yet. The label has come off but I don't think it's Jabsco it looks like NZ or LK?
 
If anyone could offer any advice I would really appreciate it.
 
Regards
 
Malcolm
SM 117
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow Locker Seals

eric <kimberlite@...>
 


Gasket material dimensions

Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
 

Hi Bill,

This is the material. It works wonderfully on my Sharki!

Roy





Roy Duddy
Duddy Law Offices
One Liberty Lane, Suite 256
Hampton, New Hampshire 03842
603-668-9000 Tel.
603-472-7333 Fax
800-675-0800 New England
603-315-9600 Cell







Re: Bow Locker Seals

yahoogroups@...
 

Roy, I am interested if it is the same rubber gasket used on a Super Maramu 2000. The SM utilizes the same rubber gasket for bow lockers, lazerrettes, engine hatch, etc. in fact, if it is the same, I may take all you have. Could you give me a drawing of the gasket profile with dimensions, or a link to that information so that I can compare to #387? Bill BeBe #387 Currently Croatia


Bow Locker Seals

Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
 

Hi all,

I needed to replace the bow locker seals on my Sharki. In order to obtain the proper seal I had to purchase 100 feet. Needless to say, I have a significant amount remaining after installation. The seal is made by Clean Seal, Inc. It is D576 with 3M Hats adhesive. If anyone would like to purchase some, please let me know.

Roy
Sharki #123
Unwineding
Kittery, Maine


Roy Duddy
One Liberty Lane, Suite 256
Hampton, New Hampshire 03842
603-668-9000 Tel.
603-472-7333 Fax
800-675-0800 New England
603-315-9600 Cell







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Furler Top Swivel (bearing collar)

Craig Briggs
 

My experience is that Aluminum rivets, which are what were factory installed on our Santorin, do act as a mechanical safety link (much like a shear pin on an outboard motor propeller.)  When we forgot to remove the balooner halyard some years back and tried to furl both sails together, the rivets broke before any permanent twist was imparted to the furling extrusion.  Don't know for sure, but it struck me that this was part of Amel's original design intent. (Similarly, the anti-rotation rods bent and relieved the pressure on the top swivel, lest it's cast housing be cracked.) 
Regarding a lubricant on the foil to use when reassembling, I'd recommend an Anti Sieze thread lubricant or a good grease.  T-9 contains a solvent and wax and the manufacturer Boeshield says it is intended "last many months".  After many years that wax becomes glue!

Cheers,
Craig Briggs, SN#68 "Sangaris", aboard m/v Stadiongracht somewhere in the Atlantic headed for Palm Beach in time for hurricane season, whilst we're aboard our friend's SN#127 "Frances Louise" in Genoa.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Genoa size

Dave_Benjamin
 

Depends. What Contender cloth are we talking about?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diesel tank leaking

svsunnyside
 

Hello everybody, 
as promised, here are the results of a short visit on board.

The tank can be moved into the salon .

I found 3 different way  to do it, involving different risk and time. All of them are very risky.
   - A) less difficult = more time = removing companion way ladder and salon table .
   - B) medium difficult = medium time = removing only the companion way ladder .
   - C) High difficult = less time = removing nothing at all .
Due to the short time available and an underestimate risk I opted for solution  C) but I would not repeat the experience.
One of the worst component of the risk is the very little dimension of the base  (a little less than 5") so the barycenter fall all the time well out of the base.

At the moment the tank rest upside-down over the salon table  .

PREPARATION :
It was made a precise bidimensional (1:100) cardboard model of the tank and of all the surfaces involved on the movement of the tank. This showed that the third dimension (high) was critical at several point of the movement, so it was decided to do a tridimensional (1:1) dummy model made of 1"x1.5" wood batten ,  to trial on place.
The model passed so easily that induced to underestimate the job.   But one thing is to move a 12 kg  wood model (without wall) and other is to move a 96 kg  SS slippery tank without any grasp point . 
 It is absolutely necessary to dress rubber gloves or at least gloves with rubber dot and, if available,  safety shoes (steel toe) .
 Every furniture corner that risk to be in contact with the tank must be heavily protected.


As everybody can judge my English is so rough that represent  to me a job, then if someone is iterested to know,what to prepare before to start the job and how to procede to I will be glad to post all the details .

Gabriele Antolini
S/V Sunny Side
Maramu #219 (02/87)
Todomar Yard
Cartagena Col.



On Friday, 25 July 2014, 18:42, Gabriele Antolini wrote:



Hi,
Sorry for a late answer, I was traveling.
Thank you Dennis, Thank you Joel
Joel, when you dont agree on any argument, please, continue to tell us.
We appreciate it very much.
I have well clear in my mind that , well thoughts opinions against, are much usefull than opinions pro.
Also the opinion of Oliver could be interesting.

Gabriele Antolini
S/V Sunny Side
Maramu # 219 (02/87)
Todomar Yard Cartagena Col.


On Sat, 19/7/14, jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Diesel tank leaking
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Saturday, 19 July, 2014, 5:00

   First, I am all but 100% certain that the
tank cannot be removed into the saloon without cutting it in half.
Second, I don't know of any reputable shipyards which will sheath
the tank with FBG in epoxy and guarantee this type of
repair. In my experience, it never works.
Sometimes I don't put my
thoughts in on purpose as I really do make my living selling
Amel boats and the best way to piss somebody off and have
them say uncharitable things about you is to tell them
something they don't want to hear.
Olivier, what say you? 

Joel F. PotterThe
Amel Guy
954 812
2485iPhone

 

Re: Diesel tank leaking
Saturday, 19 July, 2014 23:23
From: "Dennis Johns" <sbmesasailor@...>
To: "Gabriele Antolini" <svsunnyside@...>

I am not the first owner and I had to make the dipstick after I bought the boat as there wasn't one on board upon purchase.
The first one I made was incorrect and it regularly gave me wrong fuel consumption figures.

Perhaps too many inspection panels were leaking, so they removed it on later hulls.

I also find it unusual that Joel hasn't offered his opinion on this.

I will continue to monitor your progress as I am interested in the results.

Dennis



On Jul 18, 2014, at 4:20 PM, "Gabriele Antolini svsunnyside@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:

     Hi Dennis,
My drawing has dimensions and correspond to reality.  Graduated dipstick also is correct.

Years ago I removed the decorative panelling, from
the front side of the tank, to use it as  back side of a
supplementary maps  deposit and I didn´t find the
inspection cover you have. Are you the first owner of your boat ?

First week of August I will be on board to check if I will be able to move and
repair the tank.  As you suggested, I already rented two
strong guys because of the weight (about 80kg) and the very limited
space available. I will  keep you, and the forum, informed .

Joel Potter who usually is very present on the forum has not yet given his competent opinion.
I hope he will read this note.

Regards
Gabriele
AntoliniS/V Sunny Side
Maramu #219
(02/87)Todomar Yard, Cartagena
Col

 

      On Wednesday, 16 July 2014, 15:38, Dennis Johns <sbmesasailor@...> wrote:
     
  Gabriele,
Don't know if your drawing has dimensions,
but the tank is taller than it appears.  To fit against the
hull, the back side is slanted in, which just happens to
make a dipstick with even marks inaccurate (as I discovered)
-the bottom 1/4 of the dipstick needs longer marks.
 Also, the tank is shorter aft.  If you have a drawing of it
  perhaps you are already aware of this and have a properly
graduated dipstick.
The top retaining plank is bolted in place, the
bolts should be revealed if you remove any carpet or padding
placed on the top of the tank.  That will also reveal the
filler tube and the venting tube which must be removed.
 The bottom plank does not need to be removed.
On my boat, the side of the tank along the
companionway is covered with decorative paneling.
 Once the top retaining plank
  is removed the decorative paneling can be removed
which reveals the inspection cover.
You will need two
  big strong guys to lift the tank as even when
  empty it is quite heavy.  The tank can be wedged over the
bottom retaining plank and set on blocks in the
companionway.  Once you get it into the companionway, you
should be able to maneuver around it to
access all sides.  Not familiar enough to comment on a
coating of epoxy GRP.
 
As I mentioned before, I was unable to move the
tank into the salon as I couldn't make the turn due to
the nav station (I doubt the companionway ladder will be the issue).
Dennis

   


  On Monday, July 14, 2014 7:26 PM,
Gabriele  Antolini <svsunnyside@...> wrote:
     

  Hi Dennis,
thanks a lot for your kind
  answer. It was the only one I received so I have to extract
as maximum info as possible from your e-mail.
  -  On my tank, according to a drowing that I received
18 years ago from Mr. Selo, there is no inspection cover.
  -  To remove the tank
first I have to remove both plank, on top and bottom of the
front. How to remove them?
     Are they laminated to the bulkheads ? They seams to be.
  -  If you couldn´t reach the
salon I suspect that you suspended the tank in the passage
from the salon to the   aft berths
.   Is this correct ?  If I am correct, do you think that
I can lift the tank in the passage in order to cover
   completly all the surfaces with 1/8" of Epoxy GRP  after an
opportune surfaces preparetion ?
       Of course I would prefere to lift the
tank in the salon removing  the companion
  ladder and, once arrived in  contact with the main table , lift the tank over it .
  Joel, who is quite sure reading these lines, could also give his appreciated opinion.
Sorry for my english.

Gabriele Antolini
S/V Sunn Side
Maramu #219 (02/87)
At the moment on Todomar Yard , Cartagena Col.



Re: Diesel tank leaking
Wednesday, 9 July, 2014 17:20 From: "Dennis Johns" <sbmesasailor@...>
To: "svsunnyside@..." <svsunnyside@...>

Hello Gabriele,
Sorry no one has replied to your call for help.  There seems to be lots of help for SM's out there but not so much for Maramus.

We had a leak in our fuel tank and I thought it was corrosion as well until I thoroughly inspected the entire tank and determined that it was only that the inspection cover needed tightening -LUCKY ME!  We were in the Galapagos Islands and so help was going to be a problem if the tank was leaking from corrosion.

During the inspection, I was able to completely lift the tank and inspect all sides/corners while it was in the companionway. Once it's in the companionway, you have to use the aft berth hatch/porthole to ingress/egress and inspect the aft portion of the tank.  My first thought was to try to remove it into the salon, but if that can even be done, the nav station would have to be dismantled.  If you can get the tank suspended, so that a thorough inspection can be made, then perhaps a stainless steel expert can give it a look and make a recommendation.
Unfortunately, I've heard that these tanks must be cut up to remove and replace.

Good Luck!
Dennis Johns
s/v Libertad
Maramu #121
Galaxidi, Greece



Diesel tank leaking
Monday, 7 July, 2014 7:20 From: "Gabriele Antolini" <svsunnyside@...>

Hello  everybody,
The tank of my Maramu is leaking from a long time.
Years ago I was able to smell ,only when in front of the
tank, without seeing any leakage.
Then smell increased and investigating carefully, with a dentist
mirror, I found a little leakage due to
an invisible crack beside a welding (arrow-side
corner-flange type) of the lateral panel .
To repair it I reduced the diesel tank level
  and after a repeated and careful
solvent cleaning of the contaminated area, I applied
several local coats of epoxy. This stopped the leak for about five
years  but the lost of flexibility of the resin together
with the fatigue stress of the foil rendered the work in vein.
  Now on both lateral panels , under the area that was covered
with rubber foam,  I can appreciate also some
leakage from several corrosion pin-holes.
Of coarse without the removal of the tank I cannot check
neither the bottom nor the back side so I cannot
say how their conditions are. The front panel,exposed to air, till now, is
very sound.
I suppose that several boat could have had and solved the
same problem so any suggestion will be appreciate.

Best regards
Gabriele Antolini
SV Sunny Side
Maramu # 219 (02/87)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Tightening rudder stuffing box nut

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Eric the bronze in that application would be strong as well being easier to turn on the outer housing. Stainless does not do well when robber of ox. 
As with all the issues here on this site we all have our open to new ideas and suggestions. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 19, 2014, at 19:04, "eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

why would I want a bronze nut when the post is stainless?

 
 
 
 
On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 08:05 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
 
 

Eric you may want to think about a bronze nut.  

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 18, 2014, at 22:10, "eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have that wrench on board, but it slips off the nylon nut. I am thinking about having a new nut made out of stainless and having a wrench cut out of 3/8" flat steel to tighten the nut..

It requires a great deal of force to tighten down the nut to the bottom
Fair winds
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberlite
 
 
 
On Mon, Aug 18, 2014 at 10:03 PM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
 
 
 

Hi Eric when we repacked the rudder post we use the flat wide jaw wrench sold by West as a stuffing box adjustable. The jaws can be adjusted to fit the nut and it can be used to tighten the nut with the arm in place. We too greased the shaft and arm before putting it back after the repack job. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 18, 2014, at 19:56, "eric kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 
 
 I just finished tightening the rudder stuffing box nut on Kimberlite.
I used a chain wrench to tighten this. does anyone else have a better tool for the job?
I believe the nut is about 72 mm. Also the quadrant was again rusted. Do you have a better solution than using a rust preventative paint such as Rustoleum. I did not paint the quadrant where it attaches to the rudder stock as it is the bonding for the boat, however I used a dielectric grease on the rudder stock then measured the resistance between the bonding wire and the rudder stock 0.0 ohms.
Fair winds
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Tightening rudder stuffing box nut

eric <kimberlite@...>
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Furler Top Swivel (bearing collar)

myersdon1
 

The original rivets on Harmonie were not aluminum.  Stainless, I believe.  I met a Amel owner that was previously an Amel employee.  He replaced his rivets with bolts.  He felt that this was stronger than the rivets.  I wouldn't want to risk having the rivets fail by using aluminum.
Regards,
Don Myers

Harmonie, SM 160


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Furler Top Swivel (bearing collar)

karkauai
 

I'm rereading this and see that Don says the rivets that hold the foil in the gearbox "should be stainless or monel, not aluminum".  I think this is contrary to what I've read elsewhere, where aluminum is recommended so that if something jams, the rivets will fail before the foil does.  Help....again!?

Kent
SM243
Kristy
Fernandina Beach FL--waiting for my Cdrive to return from France.


From: "svharmonie@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Furler Top Swivel (bearing collar)

 
Gary,To remove the stay, the gearbox must be removed from the foil.  There is a split plastic bushing at the bottom of the foil that will prevent the swaged end from going thru the foil.

Unless you get very lucky removal of the gearbox from the foil drive collar can only be safely done with an arbur press after removing the foil from the collar.  If you are not servicing the gearbox, this will not be necessary.  After drilling out the rivets, you can use a halyard to pull on the foil.   Cutting the silicone you can see with a knife may help.  Applying some heat will also help.  When the foil comes free, find the split bushing before it goes in the water.  You can now remove the gearbox and then the foil.  The rivets should be stainless or monel, not aluminum.  They are bedded with silicone to help prevent corrosion.

Regards,

Don Myers

Harmonie, SM 160



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Furler Top Swivel (bearing collar)

karkauai
 

Thanks, Richard.  I haven't heard of it before, but always looking for a better mousetrap.  I'll give it a try.
Kent


From: "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 8:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Furler Top Swivel (bearing collar)

 
Hi Kent when you put it back together use T-9 spray. To stop the corrosion issues. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330



On Aug 19, 2014, at 9:11, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
The Allen bolts on mine were frozen but finally came loose after soaking for a few days with PB Blaster.

I couldn't make it budge after getting the bolts out.  I had to take it to a machine shop and used their big arbor press.  It was pretty scary but finally came loose.

Any suggestions on what to treat it with when reassembling to make it easier next time?

Kent
SM243
Kristy
Fernandina Beach FL


On Aug 19, 2014, at 7:15 AM, "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Sorry about the garbled text that's what happens when you use voice. It's a tough job to get those two apart. I don't know of any easy way to do it. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 19, 2014, at 7:24, "Gary Wells gary@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Richard!

Now I'll be looking for advice on the teardown and removal of the furler mechanism.  I've removed the motor, and every obvious n lot and screw but nothing budges. I will drill the bottom rivets today but I was assuming the gearbox might come off separately. I just don't want to break anything using a lot of force.

We're trying to retrieve the stay out of the foil tube but it hangs up on the gearbox end. What a learning curve!

Gary W.
SM 209 "Adagio"



Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Santorin Balooner

Ric Gottschalk <ric@...>
 

My santorin sn 24 built 1990 has mouse

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Aug 18, 2014, at 2:18 PM, "joemac4sail@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Craig 

Our Santorin was built in late 1991 and commissioned in 1992, Unfortunately I cant tell you the hull number as I don't have that information to hand. I've used the SM system and our Santorin Khamsin, has a system that is a lot more basic. So, I wonder when the change was made by Amel. Probably not worth it to trying to get an answer.
 But overall, I still think the Ballooner is a brilliant sail and the system developed by Amel to fly it one of the safest.
Regards Joe  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Furler Top Swivel (bearing collar)

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Kent when you put it back together use T-9 spray. To stop the corrosion issues. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 19, 2014, at 9:11, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The Allen bolts on mine were frozen but finally came loose after soaking for a few days with PB Blaster.

I couldn't make it budge after getting the bolts out.  I had to take it to a machine shop and used their big arbor press.  It was pretty scary but finally came loose.

Any suggestions on what to treat it with when reassembling to make it easier next time?

Kent
SM243
Kristy
Fernandina Beach FL


On Aug 19, 2014, at 7:15 AM, "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Sorry about the garbled text that's what happens when you use voice. It's a tough job to get those two apart. I don't know of any easy way to do it. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 19, 2014, at 7:24, "Gary Wells gary@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Thanks Richard!

Now I'll be looking for advice on the teardown and removal of the furler mechanism.  I've removed the motor, and every obvious n lot and screw but nothing budges. I will drill the bottom rivets today but I was assuming the gearbox might come off separately. I just don't want to break anything using a lot of force.

We're trying to retrieve the stay out of the foil tube but it hangs up on the gearbox end. What a learning curve!

Gary W.
SM 209 "Adagio"



Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone