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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow thruster maintenance

Ian Shepherd
 

If you want to virtually end further bow thruster maintenance you could try the following:

1/ Machine the the prop shaft to take a thin stainless sleeve where the lip seal grips the shaft. After 5 years my seal is as good as new.

2/ Replace the three open ball race bearings with sealed ones.

3/ As you can no longer pour oil down the shaft tube into the gearbox, remove the gearbox back plate and pack the gearbox with waterproof bearing grease. Also pack grease on the inside of the lip seal.

No wear,no mayonnaise, less noise and no worries. I did this on Crusader about 5 years ago. After 3 years use I opened the bow thruster up to check what was happening and everything was perfect. No water inside and no signs of wear.

The only thing I do is to lower the shaft every year to ensure the shaft and the splines are free. I use Corrosion Block Grease (Made by Corrosion X) on the splines and the inside of the motor housing, and since I have found them always corrosion free.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader Cyprus

On 12/09/2014 22:22, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Here are some pictures I took last November when I overhaul my bow thruster following the instruction written by Gary Silver and anoted by Bill Rouse.

I was intimidated by the task as I am sure everyone will be for the first time, so here step by step pictures that I think will reassure.
They are 80 pictures...
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html

Good luck!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Bay Street Marina, Nassau, The Bahamas

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 9/12/14, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] bow thruster maintenance
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Date: Friday, September 12, 2014, 1:10 AM


 









Curt,
If I were you, and since this is
apparently your first time, I would order the things you
need from Amel (sav"at"amel.fr). 
The following is the list I gave
Amel for Super Maramu 387 parts will vary from year
to year...be sure and include your Model and Hull number
with your order.Amel Parts
Order:Propeller Shaft Wear Bushing and Seals
(3) Replacement Kit1Seal
for Amel C Drive oil drain1Set of 3
foam donuts for Bow
Thruster1Set of Nylon Screws (for propeller)
for Bow Thruster2Nylon Hub and stainless steel pin
(for propeller) for Bow
Thruster2Shaft Seal for Bow
Thruster160mm Tube Seal for Bow
Thruster1
You might want to order 2
each where I indicated if you have an extra bow thruster
prop. When we were all new with Amels we either came very
close to a line fouling the bow thruster prop, or we did
foul it and the nylon parts break away saving the internal
parts. Unfortunately the prop goes to the bottom...you
either dive for it, or you leave it on the bottom. Servicing
the bow thruster "in-the-water" requires a special
tool that is in the photo section of the Amel Owners Group
website.There are some useful photos here: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1587075684
Sometimes the hub of the
bow thruster propeller is a little difficult to remove from
the shaft. Before you try to remove it, look at the way your
new part is made. If it is difficult, patience and care are
your best resources.

If it
has been a while since it the bow thruster was serviced, you
may find it difficult to separate the shaft tube from the
electric motor. The best way is to fabricate the metal tool
shown in the photo link above. The second best way is to
disconnect the "up-line" from the top of the
motor, and from the outside of the boat you raise the motor
and quickly pull down on the thruster tube. I did this once
after using a lot of penetrating oil at the junction of the
tube and motor. It took about a dozen rather violent
downward pulls to do this. I later discovered the tool
pictured in the group of photos above.
The reason the tube will
get stuck is that there has been saltwater seepage while the
bow thruster is down. The reasons for the seepage are
generally:You forget the bow
thruster is down and sail some distance with it down
The bow thruster need service and the
seals are worn
You have deployed
the bow thruster down in rough seas.

Use plenty of waterproof
grease at the junction of the tube and the motor when you
reassemble it.
The service is not
difficult and the amount of time to complete the service
decreases with each service you perform.
I hope this helps you...and
assuming that you are new, welcome to the Group and
Amel.
BillBeBe 387

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at
3:16 AM, sail2live@...
[amelyachtowners]
wrote:















 









I have downloaded and read the various PDF files
re. thruster maint. and seal replacement.

Thanks very much to those that
have posted those files.

Our Maramu is in Fajardo, PR and I intend to do
the maint. in Nov. before we launch.

Q:  Where do I buy the parts for the
maintenance and for spares aboard?

Thank you for your help.

Fair Winds

Curt Epperson
S/V Languedoc

































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster maintenance

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Derick,

The set screws are 2 each 8mm X 12mm.

Download the two photos in this album:

Bill
BeBe 387



On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 10:15 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I'll get those for you this wkend Derick.

There are three (?or four) Allen screws that hold the tool on the. Bow thruster shaft. I haven't had to replace mine so don't know the size.  I'll try to get that for you too.

I haven't heard of any changes to the thruster mechanism but Kristy is 1999 #243, so Brava is a few years younger.
Kent



On Sep 14, 2014, at 11:12 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent, I would really like the sizes/part numbers from Carolina Seal for those bow thruster seals and the main propeller seals.  Like Eric, did you get the ones with the stainless steel springs?


By the way, my previous owner got a bow thruster hub made out of stainless steel instaed of Delryn, and in doing so extended the hub to enable the addition of a retaining ring that is kept in place by a stainless steel cotter pin.  Now on Brava if the worst happens and the nylon bolts holding in the bow thruster propeller get sheered off by being tangled in a stray line or a plastic bag, the propeller is retained and not lost to the depths!! To my mind, it was a great innovation.

Alexandre, your detailed pictures are marvelous as a supplement to the previous descriptions.  Can you tell us the specific bearing part numbers and suppliers that you used?  One question, besides the tape, was there also some screw(s) that you and others use to attach the Amel special tool to the shaft?  If so, are these screws part of the bow thruster shaft already?

My bow thruster shaft is very firmly stuck into the electric motor, and in January when I get back on board I want to use that puller tool from Amel to see if I can get it free.  I figure doing this in drydock is the better part of valor in case it requires some man-handling from below, as Bill Rouse has related.  Thanks to all who have written up these procedures and supplied such useful information.  Forewarned is forearmed.

Ever the neophyte,

Derick

SM2K #400 Brava
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster maintenance

karkauai
 

Yes, the seals I got had SS springs.  It took a week longer to get them but at no extra cost.
Kent


On Sep 14, 2014, at 11:12 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent, I would really like the sizes/part numbers from Carolina Seal for those bow thruster seals and the main propeller seals.  Like Eric, did you get the ones with the stainless steel springs?


By the way, my previous owner got a bow thruster hub made out of stainless steel instaed of Delryn, and in doing so extended the hub to enable the addition of a retaining ring that is kept in place by a stainless steel cotter pin.  Now on Brava if the worst happens and the nylon bolts holding in the bow thruster propeller get sheered off by being tangled in a stray line or a plastic bag, the propeller is retained and not lost to the depths!! To my mind, it was a great innovation.

Alexandre, your detailed pictures are marvelous as a supplement to the previous descriptions.  Can you tell us the specific bearing part numbers and suppliers that you used?  One question, besides the tape, was there also some screw(s) that you and others use to attach the Amel special tool to the shaft?  If so, are these screws part of the bow thruster shaft already?

My bow thruster shaft is very firmly stuck into the electric motor, and in January when I get back on board I want to use that puller tool from Amel to see if I can get it free.  I figure doing this in drydock is the better part of valor in case it requires some man-handling from below, as Bill Rouse has related.  Thanks to all who have written up these procedures and supplied such useful information.  Forewarned is forearmed.

Ever the neophyte,

Derick

SM2K #400 Brava
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster maintenance

karkauai
 

I'll get those for you this wkend Derick.

There are three (?or four) Allen screws that hold the tool on the. Bow thruster shaft. I haven't had to replace mine so don't know the size.  I'll try to get that for you too.

I haven't heard of any changes to the thruster mechanism but Kristy is 1999 #243, so Brava is a few years younger.
Kent



On Sep 14, 2014, at 11:12 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent, I would really like the sizes/part numbers from Carolina Seal for those bow thruster seals and the main propeller seals.  Like Eric, did you get the ones with the stainless steel springs?


By the way, my previous owner got a bow thruster hub made out of stainless steel instaed of Delryn, and in doing so extended the hub to enable the addition of a retaining ring that is kept in place by a stainless steel cotter pin.  Now on Brava if the worst happens and the nylon bolts holding in the bow thruster propeller get sheered off by being tangled in a stray line or a plastic bag, the propeller is retained and not lost to the depths!! To my mind, it was a great innovation.

Alexandre, your detailed pictures are marvelous as a supplement to the previous descriptions.  Can you tell us the specific bearing part numbers and suppliers that you used?  One question, besides the tape, was there also some screw(s) that you and others use to attach the Amel special tool to the shaft?  If so, are these screws part of the bow thruster shaft already?

My bow thruster shaft is very firmly stuck into the electric motor, and in January when I get back on board I want to use that puller tool from Amel to see if I can get it free.  I figure doing this in drydock is the better part of valor in case it requires some man-handling from below, as Bill Rouse has related.  Thanks to all who have written up these procedures and supplied such useful information.  Forewarned is forearmed.

Ever the neophyte,

Derick

SM2K #400 Brava
Re: bow thruster maintenance

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Thanks Kent, I would really like the sizes/part numbers from Carolina Seal for those bow thruster seals and the main propeller seals.  Like Eric, did you get the ones with the stainless steel springs?

By the way, my previous owner got a bow thruster hub made out of stainless steel instaed of Delryn, and in doing so extended the hub to enable the addition of a retaining ring that is kept in place by a stainless steel cotter pin.  Now on Brava if the worst happens and the nylon bolts holding in the bow thruster propeller get sheered off by being tangled in a stray line or a plastic bag, the propeller is retained and not lost to the depths!! To my mind, it was a great innovation.

Alexandre, your detailed pictures are marvelous as a supplement to the previous descriptions.  Can you tell us the specific bearing part numbers and suppliers that you used?  One question, besides the tape, was there also some screw(s) that you and others use to attach the Amel special tool to the shaft?  If so, are these screws part of the bow thruster shaft already?

My bow thruster shaft is very firmly stuck into the electric motor, and in January when I get back on board I want to use that puller tool from Amel to see if I can get it free.  I figure doing this in drydock is the better part of valor in case it requires some man-handling from below, as Bill Rouse has related.  Thanks to all who have written up these procedures and supplied such useful information.  Forewarned is forearmed.

Ever the neophyte,

Derick

SM2K #400 Brava
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Air intake for cabin heater.

kimberlite@...
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Air intake for cabin heater.

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

I wonder if any kind of air heat exchanger exists for boats – i.e. if hot air is being pushed into the cabin then warm air also must be leaving the boat – if it were possible to pre-heat the air intake (from outside) with warm air leaving the boat with a heat exchanger then it might make it more efficient, effective and cheaper to heat. This is standard in modern houses.

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM2k 472

Canet en Roussillion, France

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 6:00 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Air intake for cabin heater.

 

 

Hi Eric,

> Is there any reason why i would not use air from inside the boat to reheat instead of continually heating cold air?<

Absolutely.

1.     Moisture. The warmer the air the more water it can hold. The colder the air, the less water it can hold. The cold air you suck in from outside is dry. Dry is good. Recirculating warm moist air will recirculate moisture which will lead to

2.     Condensation, that will cause:

3.     Mildew, resulting from the moisture in the warm moist air.

4.     Safety. A continuous supply of fresh (heated) air effectively pressurizes your boat purging of moisture (and CO, unless the furnace is the source of the CO).

5.     The Captain. He always did things for a reason. Trust him. Your diesel furnace will have plenty of BTU’s to toast you out of the cabin even in below freezing conditions. Unless there is a really good reason my experience has been happiest doing things his way.

6.     Re-sale. A non-Amel-standard installation will reduce your vessels desirability and re-sale value.

My 5 cents worth – hope it is helpful..

Jim

SM384

Sirena Azul

 

 

>kimberlite1212

I am just getting ready to start installing a heater in Kimberlite.
i also have the fresh air intake in the port side of the coaming.
i have other installations in the rope locker.

Is there any reason why i would not use air from inside the boat to reheat instead of continually heating cold air?
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376 Kimberliet<
Survey for Insurance in Malta April-May 2015

yahoogroups@...
 

I am going to do a haulout and survey and rigging check for insurance in Malta in late April or early May 2014. I would like to use Olivier Beaute for the survey, but his travel expenses will make the survey much more costly than if I use someone in Malta.


Is it possible that someone else might want a survey about the same time and we can share his expenses?


If so, contact me at bill"AT"svbebe.com.


Bill

BeBe 387
Re: Diesel Heater Installation

Jim Anderson
 

The diesel heater Amel installed for me in Hyères (using the fresh air ventilation system) is a Webasto Airtop 5500 with the EVO-M controller. I have been very satisfied with it over 3 winters and have found it to be less problematic than the Espar on my previous SM. I won't be aboars for a while but will post pictures of the installation at a later date. - Jim  SM384
Re: Air intake for cabin heater.

Jim Anderson
 

Hi Eric,

> Is there any reason why i would not use air from inside the boat to reheat instead of continually heating cold air?<

Absolutely.

1.     Moisture. The warmer the air the more water it can hold. The colder the air, the less water it can hold. The cold air you suck in from outside is dry. Dry is good. Recirculating warm moist air will recirculate moisture which will lead to

2.     Condensation, that will cause:

3.     Mildew, resulting from the moisture in the warm moist air.

4.     Safety. A continuous supply of fresh (heated) air effectively pressurizes your boat purging of moisture (and CO, unless the furnace is the source of the CO).

5.     The Captain. He always did things for a reason. Trust him. Your diesel furnace will have plenty of BTU’s to toast you out of the cabin even in below freezing conditions. Unless there is a really good reason my experience has been happiest doing things his way.

6.     Re-sale. A non-Amel-standard installation will reduce your vessels desirability and re-sale value.

My 5 cents worth – hope it is helpful..

Jim

SM384

Sirena Azul

 

 

>kimberlite1212

I am just getting ready to start installing a heater in Kimberlite.
i also have the fresh air intake in the port side of the coaming.
i have other installations in the rope locker.

Is there any reason why i would not use air from inside the boat to reheat instead of continually heating cold air?
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376 Kimberliet<
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Tiolet fresh or raw

kimberlite@...
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Light Air Sails / Bow Sprits and attachment points

yahoogroups@...
 

We have used the spiniker, but stopped using it while crossing oceans. We stick with 3 sails and the two pole Ballooner set up. It is safer and easier, once set, for 1 person watches. Bill BeBe 387
Re: Light Air Sails / Bow Sprits and attachment points

Ian Park
 

If it's any help I used a Selden remove able bowsprit on my last boat. I just added a wire bobstay to the front to spread the load down onto the bow. When put away I tied the bobstay to the pulpit. The boat was a Jeanneau 37.1, but it would work just the same on our Santorin.

Ian SN96 Ocean Hobo
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster maintenance

karkauai
 

Thanks Eric. Might be a good thing to have a few pieces of if going to remote places.
Kent


On Sep 13, 2014, at 2:52 PM, "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Delryn is easy to get -in the USA it is available at McMaster Carr

eric
sm 376 kimberlite

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: Saturday, September 13, 2014 8:40 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster maintenance
To: "amelyachtowners@..."

> Thanks John, I should have said I didn't know what the material
> is, and haven't had the hubs machined yet as I have a couple of
> Amel spares. Now we know. I wonder how hard Delrin is to find?
> Kent
> SM243
> Kristy
>
>
>
> > On Sep 13, 2014, at 4:11 AM, "'Anne and John Hollamby '
> annejohnholl@... [amelyachtowners]"
> wrote:
> >
> > Just a word of warning. The white plastic hubs and indeed many
> other such parts fabricated by Amel are made of a hard plastic
> which is Delrin. I specified this when I had some bits made by
> the machinist here in Manoel Island Boatyard but they used
> alookalike but much weaker plastic which was totally useless
> when I eventually used it. Google “Delrin Plastic” which will
> confirm it’s qualities.
> >
> > Good luck! Anne and
> John, Bali Hai, SM319, for sale in Malta
> >
> > From: mailto:amelyachtowners@...
> > Sent: Friday, September 12, 2014 11:10 PM
> > To: amelyachtowners@...
> > Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster maintenance
> >
> >
> > Sorry Derrick, I'm not on the boat. I know Chuck should have
> my previous order for the lip seals for the main prop shaft.
> You need 3 of them. I think I also got the lip seals for my bow
> thruster from him. There's a small one for the prop shaft and a
> large one where the vertical shaft goes through the hull. There
> were already on the boat several of the larger neoprene seals
> that go around the vertical shaft above and below the hull, so I
> haven't tried to find replacements yet. The hubs are a
> proprietary Amel part, but you can get the nylon bolts at any
> good hardware store. You could probably have several hubs
> turned at a machine shop for about what you'd pay Amel to shop
> them to you.
> > I'll be back on the boat next weekend and can get the sizes
> for all of them if you need me to.
> > Kent
> > SM 243
> > Kristy
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Sep 12, 2014, at 12:43 PM, "derickgates@...
> [amelyachtowners]" wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Kent,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Do you have the part numbers for the bow thruster lip seal
> and the prop shaft lip seals as used by Carolina Seal? Are
> these both 60mm, but different types of seals? I have not yet
> changed out either one.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Derick
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> SM2K #400 Brava
> >>
> >> Currently on the hard at Bailey's Boatyard
> >>
> >> Falmouth Harbor, Antigua
> >
> >
>

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul

Mike Ondra
 

A quick call to Sipala to talk about cover stipperiness and cover options
might answer the question. We found polyester required some additional work
to reduce slip.



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2014 3:18 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul





Mike, Just checked Defenders website ,it has Dyneema 7/16 (11 mm) with a
polyester cover. Since it has a polyester cover I wonder if it would slip or
have an advantage over polyester braid at half the cost. Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Sep 13, 2014 10:42 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul



Hi Pat,

Not to confound you with additional information and another opinion, but
facing this issue with Aletes we are currently talking with Mike Sipala of
Sipala Spars & Rigging in Rock Hall. He just opened his business in the past
year having formerly been the rigging guy for Haven Harbor. We found him
extremely knowledgeable and he has the shop to do the work (possible eye
splices at both ends of the outhaul line). He recommend Dyneema (Spectra) as
I recall. We also discussed Vectran but I believe he preferred the Dyneema.
He also has the capability of putting on a cover for wear and UV resistance.

We found polyester to slip but had some success with a one-time application
of spray contact cement to cut the slip when the rope is new. However over
time to prevent slipping we perhaps overtighted the line and the cover tore
at the capstan. We have also had better luck (reduced slippage) with 12mm
than 10mm as I believe the 12mm gets more bite in the capstan jaws. The
solution is a work in progress and I will be interested in hearing your
chosen solution. I think a conversation with Sipala would be productive for
you. 410-708-0370.

Regards,

Mike - S/V Aletes SM#240

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners@...?> ]
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2014 7:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul

I have read many postings about outhaul line and I want to replace mine.
What I have now looks to be normal polyester double braid and has worked
well, although I have never sailed in 40 plus wind, it may slip in strong
conditions but never has. Is there a reason that I should not replace it
with Polyester double braid ? Its very strong and low stretch. Thanks
, Pat SM 123
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul

Patrick McAneny
 

Mike, Just checked Defenders website ,it has Dyneema  7/16 (11 mm) with a polyester cover. Since it has a polyester cover I wonder if it would slip or have an advantage over polyester braid at half the cost.  Pat
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Sep 13, 2014 10:42 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul

 
Hi Pat,

Not to confound you with additional information and another opinion, but
facing this issue with Aletes we are currently talking with Mike Sipala of
Sipala Spars & Rigging in Rock Hall. He just opened his business in the past
year having formerly been the rigging guy for Haven Harbor. We found him
extremely knowledgeable and he has the shop to do the work (possible eye
splices at both ends of the outhaul line). He recommend Dyneema (Spectra) as
I recall. We also discussed Vectran but I believe he preferred the Dyneema.
He also has the capability of putting on a cover for wear and UV resistance.

We found polyester to slip but had some success with a one-time application
of spray contact cement to cut the slip when the rope is new. However over
time to prevent slipping we perhaps overtighted the line and the cover tore
at the capstan. We have also had better luck (reduced slippage) with 12mm
than 10mm as I believe the 12mm gets more bite in the capstan jaws. The
solution is a work in progress and I will be interested in hearing your
chosen solution. I think a conversation with Sipala would be productive for
you. 410-708-0370.

Regards,

Mike - S/V Aletes SM#240

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2014 7:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Outhaul

I have read many postings about outhaul line and I want to replace mine.
What I have now looks to be normal polyester double braid and has worked
well, although I have never sailed in 40 plus wind, it may slip in strong
conditions but never has. Is there a reason that I should not replace it
with Polyester double braid ? Its very strong and low stretch. Thanks
, Pat SM 123

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Air intake for cabin heater.

Dennis woods
 

Hi Eric,
Moisture !
Dennis
IL Flauto Magico SM 408

On 13 Sep 2014, at 19:57, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I am just getting ready to start installing a heater in Kimberlite.

i also have the fresh air intake in the port side of the coaming.
i have other installations in the rope locker.

Is there any reason why i would not use air from inside the boat to reheat instead of continually heating cold air?
Fair Winds,
Eric
sm 376 Kimberliet

----- Original Message -----
From: "svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners]" 
Date: Saturday, September 13, 2014 11:40 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Webasto heater installer recommendation / Northeast United States
To: amelyachtowners@...

> Hello All, 
> 
> We decided since 18 months ago to install a heater in 
> Peregrinus. Back in Fla., however, the manufacturer recommended 
> we postpone the installation until we reached the NE U.S., 
> because of the depth of experience in that area of the country.
> 
> 
> The time has come for us to get this done. Do you have a shop, 
> a dealer, or a shipyard you recommend for a Webasto 
> installation? We'll travel anywhere in the area to get this 
> done, but we are looking for a high quality/safe installation. 
> We'll be traveling South anyway, beginning in a couple of days.
> 
> 
> #350 already has the factory air ducting reaching all three 
> cabins. The installers will have to add diesel and electric 
> lines, exhaust, controllers, and we want the mod wherein the 
> intake is at the port foot of the rope bag in the cockpit, 
> instead of the flap on the setback of the port side locker.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peregrinus
> Super Maramu 2000 Nr. 350 (2002)
> Hanging on a mooring, Fredericton, New Brunswick
>
Air intake for cabin heater.

kimberlite@...
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster maintenance

kimberlite@...
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Tiolet fresh or raw

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark , Thanks for your input, there is plus and minuses for fresh and raw, helps to get feedback. Pat
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Erdos mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Sep 13, 2014 11:59 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Tiolet fresh or raw

 
Pat,

The previous owner of our Amel re-plumbed the heads to fresh water flush. The heads have been trouble free for 14 years. We do not have any odor or crystal build up in the pipes. The flush pumps are trouble free. When we purchased the boat we were a little unsure of why this was done. Now, we appreciate that it was done. 

I do not think the amount of water used from the fresh water tank is significant enough to really impact a cruising life.  And, the more one runs the water maker, the happier it seems to be. If we do the quick math of using the toilets 5 times a day times 2 liters per flush for 2 people, it equates to 20 L per day. Or, about an hour of water maker run time.

We are not full time cruisers, yet. But during our offshore trips we have taken, we ran the water maker when we charged the batteries. This means we can run the water maker for about 3+ hours a day without any real battery drain. This is more than enough for our needs. And, we are fresh water hogs :)

Full disclosure: Joel pointed out to us at the time we purchased the boat that he would have a concern about bacteria somehow finding its way back from the toilet down the plumbing to the fresh water tank. 

We also have a second engine driven water maker (also installed by the previous owner). This one is currently pickled. We are going to have trouble using all the fresh water we make. 

I would highly recommend the fresh water option for flushing.

Hope this helps.

Mark
SM2K #275



On Sat, Sep 13, 2014 at 7:56 AM, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
We now have a manual raw toilet in the forward head, only a couple years old. My wife wants me to replace it with an electric one. I am debating between fresh water or raw water. Raw water would be easier to install and we live in fresh water , but will be in salt for six months a year. Fresh water would be more hassle to install and would use a significant amount of our fresh water, but has its advantages of being quiet , no salt build up and reduce smell from rotting organisms in the water. I was wondering if most of you have fresh or salt and which way to go. Of course another option , would be to ignore my wife's wishes .  Thanks, Pat SM 123
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