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Bow Thruster Motor wiring
svcharisma@...
The last time I had trouble with the bow thruster, it was just the contacts in the relay that needed filing. This time that didn't bring it back to life. I'm trying determine now if the motor is bad. I am confused by the wiring making the benchtest a challenge. Not sure the the SM set up is the same as the Mango, but it is likely similar. My wiring has positive going to the relay and negative to the motor. Then there are 3 wires between the relay and the motor. I'm hoping someone has sorted these out before and made up a wire diagram. Also wondering if anyone has changed out the relay to a solid state unit w/o contacts? Alan s/v Charisma - Mango #62 |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oregon Scientific
Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
Hey Steve,
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Don't be sorry; by replying with the name of the manufacturer, I completed a Goog search and found Naudet! I sent them an email asking if they will service the unit directly. Awaiting an answer. Thank you again. :-) On 6 Oct 2014, at 20:30, Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oregon Scientific
Stephen Davis
Sorry...I didn't know you were in Turkey. Good luck on the repair. Regards,On Mon, Oct 6, 2014 at 3:27 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oregon Scientific
Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
Helle Stephen,
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Thank you for the note. As Eleuthera is in Turkey, I will try to get Naudet to affect a repair. As you say, if it can be saved, I would love to keep it. JPG On 6 Oct 2014, at 20:17, Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Oregon Scientific
Stephen Davis
Hello Jean-Pierre My Naudet recording barograph also stopped working. I have sent it to Robert E. White instruments in the USA for repair. They are experts, and can fix most any brand of barograph. Unfortunately, the movement of my barograph had stopped working, and they are awaiting Naudet in France to send a new one, but I expect to have it back on the boat soon. My barograph is about $1000.00 new, and it was worth the trouble to have it repaired. I have had great service so far, and I would recommend sending it there. I'll give you a link to them at the bottom.http://www.robertwhite.com/cgi-local/shop.pl?type=item&item=barogr_services&categ=rw_barographs&nav_bar=weather On Mon, Oct 6, 2014 at 10:19 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM "C" drive oil and seals and wear bearing
thomas.kleman <no_reply@...>
For what it's worth, Grand Cru (SM #442) and L'ORIENT (SM #422) both hauled out this May in Ft. Lauderdale. My friend has owned Grand Cru for 2 years...........we've owned L'ORIENT for 4 years. Both boats had normal, dark looking 90 weight oil in reservoirs. When we changed the oil and seals on Grand Cru, it was milky.........the water hadn't circulated to the top of the reservoir to change the color. On L'ORIENT, all the oil looked perfect............we had changed bushing, seals, oil two years ago. The point is that on Grand Cru we didn't really know how long it had been since the last service..........probably best to do it every haul out no matter what the oil looks like.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM "C" drive oil and seals and wear bearing
Hi, Mike, Yes, water will make the oil in the reservoir turn milky. I've always changed my seals when ever I haul out...usually at 2 years and well under the 800hr
recommended maintenance interval. I would be interested to hear if your seals hold up for 4 or more years. I'm jaded about it because the first two times seals were changed, they were put in 2 for oil and 1 for water...I had water in the oil before the next haulout was due. Since I've put them in 2 for water and 1 for oil, I've not had any water ingress or oil loss, but I'm hesitant to wait until 800 hrs, or even 500 because of the extra haulout costs. My change to stainless wear bushing was because of the cost of these frequent maintenances and the fact that I was getting water in the oil (I didn't quite understand the purpose of the wear bushing). The bronze ones did have some wear, but it was minimal. The stainless one doesn't show anything but a shiny ring where the lip seals touch. Kent SM243 Kristy From: "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Monday, October 6, 2014 12:17 PM Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM "C" drive oil and seals and wear bearing We just hauled Aletes SM#240 for other reasons and considered changing "C"
drive oil and seals. Checking the log is has been only 240 hrs since last changed and the oil in the reservoir looked fine. We believe the recommended service interval for this is 800 hours so we did not proceed with the task. However, several questions arose in this decision. 1) When there is water infiltration and the oil begins to turn milky, does this show up in the reservoir? Does the oil actually circulate, or is it just a visual verification of the level of oil supply? (There is a small return hose coming in the top of the reservoir seemingly to return oil.) 2) If milky in the reservoir, clearly it is time to change oil and seals even if earlier than 800 hours. However, if after 800 hours and the oil is still good, why change the oil? If the seals are working well, could it be 1000 or more hours between service? Perhaps it was 800 hours with the 2 seal configuration and the 3 seal configuration lasts a lot longer? I wouldn't think there would be temperature degradation of the oil. 3) We have 3 brass shaft wear bearings (one installed and 2 spare). All have been used and reused at one time or another. None show the kind of wear indicated in photo postings. None have resulted in intrusion of water. (We use 45x65x8 CRW1 R nitrile seals from SKF @ $6.04 ea. always installed 1 to oil, 2 to water). The worst wear we see on any of them is a tiny score line presumably where the seal lip touches the wear bearing. Are we just lucky or does this seal system typically perform well and give long life? Comments always welcome. Mike Ondra Aletes SM#240 From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Sent: Friday, September 26, 2014 2:08 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft wear bushing alternatives and seals and sourcing alternatives I know that some very experienced people have suggested changing the prop shaft wear bushings to stainless, or using a stainless sleeve, and/or some other method. There are probably 6 unproven theories on this issue. I think it all started because some of us believe that Amel overcharges for the wear bushing (and they probably do). Then, of course, the theories about changing the Amel-suggested orientation of the oil/water seals that fit on the wear bushing. Then, additionally, various other sources of the seals, and O rings in the place of springs...yada, yada, yada...I am getting a headache remembering all of this stuff. For what it is worth, I think that Amel has much more experience with this than any one Amel owner, and certainly more than me. I am sorry if I disagree with some of you, who, by the way, I respect immensely...BUT, haulouts and C Drives are for too expensive for me to start diddling with the small stuff. I am sticking with Amel for these parts. I could not sleep at night if I started playing Russian Roulette. I hope I haven't ruffled too many feathers, but I just had to say this...I promise, I will not say it again. Bill BeBe 387 On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 5:51 PM, herbert@... [amelyachtowners] wrote: This summer we had water in the drive-oil (milky) so we hauled and changed the sealings. We found out that there was a steel wearing ring and not the brass ring from Amel. When the seals have been changed last haul-out only the sealings have been changed, according to the "professional" there is nothing else to do. Now I learned that the wearing ring should be changed always when the seals are changed, it is an inexpensive item from Amel (compared to an extra haul-out) I uploaded some fotos to show how the (steel) wearing ring looks at end of life... Th wearing ring is fixed to the shaft and the outer surface is next to the three seals. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1059967243 fair winds, tadeja and herbert, KALI MERA, SN 120, Kusadasi |
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SM "C" drive oil and seals and wear bearing
We just hauled Aletes SM#240 for other reasons and considered changing "C"
toggle quoted message
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drive oil and seals. Checking the log is has been only 240 hrs since last changed and the oil in the reservoir looked fine. We believe the recommended service interval for this is 800 hours so we did not proceed with the task. However, several questions arose in this decision. 1) When there is water infiltration and the oil begins to turn milky, does this show up in the reservoir? Does the oil actually circulate, or is it just a visual verification of the level of oil supply? (There is a small return hose coming in the top of the reservoir seemingly to return oil.) 2) If milky in the reservoir, clearly it is time to change oil and seals even if earlier than 800 hours. However, if after 800 hours and the oil is still good, why change the oil? If the seals are working well, could it be 1000 or more hours between service? Perhaps it was 800 hours with the 2 seal configuration and the 3 seal configuration lasts a lot longer? I wouldn't think there would be temperature degradation of the oil. 3) We have 3 brass shaft wear bearings (one installed and 2 spare). All have been used and reused at one time or another. None show the kind of wear indicated in photo postings. None have resulted in intrusion of water. (We use 45x65x8 CRW1 R nitrile seals from SKF @ $6.04 ea. always installed 1 to oil, 2 to water). The worst wear we see on any of them is a tiny score line presumably where the seal lip touches the wear bearing. Are we just lucky or does this seal system typically perform well and give long life? Comments always welcome. Mike Ondra Aletes SM#240 From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Sent: Friday, September 26, 2014 2:08 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft wear bushing alternatives and seals and sourcing alternatives I know that some very experienced people have suggested changing the prop shaft wear bushings to stainless, or using a stainless sleeve, and/or some other method. There are probably 6 unproven theories on this issue. I think it all started because some of us believe that Amel overcharges for the wear bushing (and they probably do). Then, of course, the theories about changing the Amel-suggested orientation of the oil/water seals that fit on the wear bushing. Then, additionally, various other sources of the seals, and O rings in the place of springs...yada, yada, yada...I am getting a headache remembering all of this stuff. For what it is worth, I think that Amel has much more experience with this than any one Amel owner, and certainly more than me. I am sorry if I disagree with some of you, who, by the way, I respect immensely...BUT, haulouts and C Drives are for too expensive for me to start diddling with the small stuff. I am sticking with Amel for these parts. I could not sleep at night if I started playing Russian Roulette. I hope I haven't ruffled too many feathers, but I just had to say this...I promise, I will not say it again. Bill BeBe 387 On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 5:51 PM, herbert@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...> wrote: This summer we had water in the drive-oil (milky) so we hauled and changed the sealings. We found out that there was a steel wearing ring and not the brass ring from Amel. When the seals have been changed last haul-out only the sealings have been changed, according to the "professional" there is nothing else to do. Now I learned that the wearing ring should be changed always when the seals are changed, it is an inexpensive item from Amel (compared to an extra haul-out) I uploaded some fotos to show how the (steel) wearing ring looks at end of life... Th wearing ring is fixed to the shaft and the outer surface is next to the three seals. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1059967243 fair winds, tadeja and herbert, KALI MERA, SN 120, Kusadasi |
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transmission fluid
Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...>
Hi All
Heading over to FL aboard Indecent, and then to Italy -- by plane, where we hope to meet Bob Rossi. I checked the owner's manual and know the quantity (8 qts), but does. anyone have a recommendation for a particular US brand? Many thanks, and fair winds! Stephanie DiBelardino SM 353 Indecent Lying in back of our cottage on the Grand Lucaya Waterway Freeport, Bahamas |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Santorin ground strap
rossienio@...
Last we 've found on my Santorin the ground strap linking the bonding wires to a keel bolt. The copper strip is on the starboard side of the bildge on the back of the bildge suction pump FEIT. The bonding wires (yellow/green) should be connected behind the noice insulation. I think will be good to see, remove the float tube and the suction of the pump. Could someone give me some guidance???Thanks to all and greetings. Enio
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Oregon Scientific
Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
Hello Folks,
I have a broken recording barometer; though I'd like to keep it, I cannot find anywhere to have it serviced. I am thinking an Oregon Scientific Weather Station (WMR 300) could be a solution. Anyone have such an instrument aboard? If not, what do you have? Kind regards, Jean-Pierre Germain SY Eleuthera, SM 007 |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Prop Shaft
Thanks, Craig, That was by memory...perhaps not the best way to go any more, eh? I'll check it out and post when I get back on the boat. Kent From: "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Saturday, October 4, 2014 6:50 AM Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Prop Shaft Hi Kent, On the Santorin the three Propeller Shaft Seals on the WOB (Wearing-Out-Bearing) are 45-65-8 (not 45-65-10). Alternatively, Amel's drawing says you may use two at 45-65-12. There is only 26mm available from the shaft housing seat to the lip, giving you 2mm of "wiggle room" - three seals at 10 mm thickness won't fit. I was under the impression the Santorin and the SM shared the same "C" drive, but perhaps not. Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris, Palm Beach
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Prop Shaft
Hi Kent, On the Santorin the three Propeller Shaft Seals on the WOB (Wearing-Out-Bearing) are 45-65-8 (not 45-65-10). Alternatively, Amel's drawing says you may use two at 45-65-12. There is only 26mm available from the shaft housing seat to the lip, giving you 2mm of "wiggle room" - three seals at 10 mm thickness won't fit. I was under the impression the Santorin and the SM shared the same "C" drive, but perhaps not. Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris, Palm Beach |
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Re: Interlux micron 66
Ian Park
We inherited coppercoat on Ocean Hobo. There were patches missing where it had been propped up, and a couple of other bits where I think the application was doubtful.
I talked to CC at the London Boat Show. It is easy to apply. I bought enough to put 5 coats on the bare patches. Must use a roller, keep contents of tray well stirred, only do one small area at a time and apply 5 coats on top of each other in one go. We only have a year and a half experience of the boat, but have sailed from Sardinia to the Outer Hebrides (Scotland) and are now in the Canaries. It has worked for us. It is easy to look after. We had a diver scrub the hull with Scotchbright pad to remove a mild coating of slimy/hairy growth. It took him 1 hour and 17 minutes. Much cheaper than a lift and wash. So far we are pleased with it, but obviously have yet to enter tropical waters. It worked well in the Med. We had the boat lifted for survey on purchase after 18 months in the water in Mallorca, and we're surprised at how clean it was compared to our last boat. But our biggest plus was that since it is epoxy it is one application scrubbed or sanded each year the hull is as smooth as an new clean hull.. Our previous boat had umpteen coatings of antifouling leaving a real onion peeled skin on the whole hull. It obviously needed scraping back. Also I don't get a blue face from sanding or splattered with anti fouling from the roller each year. At present I would opt for CC again. But as I said, I will reserve judgement until We have been in tropical waters. Guess at the moment I am one of the satisfied percentage. Ian and Linda 'Ocean Hobo' SN96 |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler
Gary, I still don't have the Cdrive back yet, and Maud/Emilie aren't replying to my inquiries. I know that it got stuck in French Customs for a few weeks and finally got to Amel the end of July. They take the whole month of August off, so I know it wasn't looked at until September, if at all. Wish communication was better.
There are some drawings and a cutaway view of the lower unit in the Files section. I doubt that Amel would send anything that would make it possible to build one as it is a proprietary part. They were pretty insistant that I send the unit back to them for inspection and repair vs replacement. When I hear from and/or get the unit back, I'll let you know what they found and did to get it fixed. Kent |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler
I don't know if the bow thruster seals are the same sizes as the furler seals...I'll check when I get back to the boat and compile a list of all the seals for the main prop shaft, bow thruster, and genoa furler. I'll check to confirm that TruSeals can supply them and post the list in the Files section.
Kent |
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Sorry, I thought these were the other seals. Fair Winds Eric
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2014 12:50 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler
Hi Gary, Sorry for the confusion. No, the specific seals listed are the ones needed to refurbish the genoa furler. You'll need one each of these and a 40mm X 3mm Oring for each time you dismantle the furler. The ones for the propshaft are 45mm X 65mm X 10mm and are SC or single lip seals. Those are the ones you need three of when you do maintenance on the prop shaft. My understanding is that the double lip seals are to keep dust and other debris out and aren't needed for the underwater propshaft application.
That more clear? Kent SM 243 Kristy Still on the hard waiting for my C Drive to come back from France
From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi Kent:
Thanks for all the info on the seal specifications and vendors.
Am I correct in assuming that the largest seal is for the main prop shaft and three of these are required at each overhaul cycle?
Is the next larges seal for the vertical shaft of the bow thruster and one would be required?
Is the smallest seal for the bow thruster prop shaft and one would be required at each overhaul cycle.
Any updates on your C drive? Is Amel having to remanufacture one from scratch? Any chance Amel would make engineering drawings and specifications available to we owners for future support? So sorry to see you had that problem.
Gary SM # 335 s/v Liahona
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler
Hi Gary, Sorry for the confusion. No, the specific seals listed are the ones needed to refurbish the genoa furler. You'll need one each of these and a 40mm X 3mm Oring for each time you dismantle the furler. The ones for the propshaft are 45mm X 65mm X 10mm and are SC or single lip seals. Those are the ones you need three of when you do maintenance on the prop shaft. My understanding is that the double lip seals are to keep dust and other debris out and aren't needed for the underwater propshaft application. That more clear? Kent SM 243 Kristy Still on the hard waiting for my C Drive to come back from France From: amelliahona To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Friday, October 3, 2014 12:12 PM Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler Hi Kent: Thanks for all the info on the seal specifications and vendors. Am I correct in assuming that the largest seal is for the main prop shaft and three of these are required at each overhaul cycle? Is the next larges seal for the vertical shaft of the bow thruster and one would be required? Is the smallest seal for the bow thruster prop shaft and one would be required at each overhaul cycle. Any updates on your C drive? Is Amel having to remanufacture one from scratch? Any chance Amel would make engineering drawings and specifications available to we owners for future support? So sorry to see you had that problem. Gary SM # 335 s/v Liahona
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler
sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Gary, The largest seal is for the bow thruster tube, the next in size is the 3 that are for the prop shaft, the smallest is for the prop seal on the bow thruster. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite SM 376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2014 12:12 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler
Hi Kent:
Thanks for all the info on the seal specifications and vendors.
Am I correct in assuming that the largest seal is for the main prop shaft and three of these are required at each overhaul cycle?
Is the next larges seal for the vertical shaft of the bow thruster and one would be required?
Is the smallest seal for the bow thruster prop shaft and one would be required at each overhaul cycle.
Any updates on your C drive? Is Amel having to remanufacture one from scratch? Any chance Amel would make engineering drawings and specifications available to we owners for future support? So sorry to see you had that problem.
Gary SM # 335 s/v Liahona |
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Re: Source for Oil Seals for Genoa Furler
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi Kent:
Thanks for all the info on the seal specifications and vendors. Am I correct in assuming that the largest seal is for the main prop shaft and three of these are required at each overhaul cycle? Is the next larges seal for the vertical shaft of the bow thruster and one would be required? Is the smallest seal for the bow thruster prop shaft and one would be required at each overhaul cycle. Any updates on your C drive? Is Amel having to remanufacture one from scratch? Any chance Amel would make engineering drawings and specifications available to we owners for future support? So sorry to see you had that problem. Gary SM # 335 s/v Liahona |
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