Bill

How did you get the heat exchanger out? I removed the end caps and could
not get the exchanger to slide out of its housing. I also do not see the
part number Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2- each listed in my
manual.



Also the belts are standard dayco belts number 17475 or 13a1205 they come
in matched sets. Same belt as the yanmar belt but better construction.

They have grooves cut into the top of the belt and allows the belt to have
more flexibility. My first set I had to get from Europe as the number was
13a1200 meaning 1200 long the USA replacement is 1205 mm long .

they are available in most auto parts stores. I got this info from the
dayco engineers, the 1200 mm version is only available for export.



I also thought that I was pushing my luck with the tranny oil cooler after
10 years .In Europe it is 500+ euros. Here it was $137-

Here is a note from the USA Rep of the British manufacturer. The Unit is the
DC60 . Made by bowman. You must order the 3367 end caps or use the old ones.
http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/pdf/DC_Oil_Coolers_-_Iss_J.pdf







From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: How to acid clean sea water intercoolers





Gary,

Before removing and cleaning the heat exchanger on the Yanmar 100hp, order
these parts:
Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2 each
O Ring - Heat Exchanger 24321-001000 2 each

You may not need to replace the O rings, but the gaskets are very delicate
and will tear when the exchanger is disassembled.

I drained the coolant before starting and reused the same coolant. I also
used this opportunity to change the thermostat, gasket and the 3 fan belts.
Parts:
Thermostat 129470-49801 1 each
Gasket, Therm 129795-49551 1 each
V-Belt 25132-004600 3 each

Disassembly/assembly is straight forward. It has been several years ago and
I do not recall any issues or problems.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary, I will completely answer when I can get to my laptop. It was the

freshwater exchanger. There are some gaskets and O rings you must have
before attempting. I will come back with details and part numbers.

Bill

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Bill:

That is very helpful. Thanks for the On-Off info. I will look into it.

When used as a hull cleaner does it etch the gelcoat at all?

Which Yanmar heat heat exchanger did you clean? Was it the fresh water

to sea water exchanger, the seawater to engine oil exchanger, or the sea
water to transmission fluid exchanger?

I know that the Yanmar sear water to fresh water heat exchanger tubular

core is a separate part from the housing in which it sits. Can you elaborate
on the removal process/difficulty if indeed you have done that?

Thanks for all your help.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary,

I was in New Zealand and could not buy acid because it requires a

special license...I had a marine engineering shop do it for me.

However, I did acid-wash the heat exchanger core on the Yanmar using

On-Off which is a combo of hydrochloric, oxalic and phosphoric acids. I let
the heat exchanger core soak in the On-Off for about 5-10 minutes until it
was visibly clean. I then rinsed it with fresh water and soaked it in a
bucket of baking soda and water to neutralize any residual acid.

A side note about On-Off: On-Off is advertised as a hull cleaner, but

is also an excellent metal cleaner and rust remover. DO NOT USE it on chrome
plated turnbuckles or chrome plated winches as it will remove the chrome.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe SM2k, #387

Viet hi sorry about your window.
I west Annapolis is Marine Plastics they can make and install a
new one. Might as well get both side done. We used lexan. Will
send you a photo in the AM.
In Newport on SM 209.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Amel specialist for the Northeast
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 17:48, "veitm@..." wrote:

Hello All:

Just dropped my windshield into the harbor...unrecoverable
unfortunately.Good news: hadn't started polishing yet
Bad news: need a new one.
Question: does anyone know the thickness of the original? (it
looks like either 10 or 12mm)
Also: Plexi or Polycarbonate - any experiences?

Last: can anybody suggest a good installer in the
Annapolis/Baltimore area?

Thanks,
Veit
SM215, ATMAN

Hi All,
these sort of problems arise from corrosion in our salt laden atmosphere, any electrical connection is vulnerable. The answer is to liberally and regularly spray all connections, alternators and electric engines in the engine room with WD40 or in NZ CRC 5.56. (It feels strange to spray a liquid into an electric motor but it works) Avoid rubber componants as much as possible (not vital) DO NOT use lubricant enhanced products, as these may be electrically conductive with resultant issues. They may be longer lasting in stopping rust but that is not our issue here 
WD 40 (WD = water dispersant) It gets in below and replaces it.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Ovalau Island Fiji 


________________________________
From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@...>
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 5:25 PM
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

 


Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to go to anchorage. Nothing…no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the problem. And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.
Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others little cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428

Hi Danny,

I understand what you are saying here, but I would NEVER use WD40 on anything that I wanted not to corrode. WD40 might be fine at dispersing the water initially , but its chemical makeup makes it hydrophilic (ie it attracts water), better in my humble opinion to use a product that it is intrinsically hydrophobic (ie repels water) like INOX...I don't carry WD 40.
If you want to test the theory, get an old rusty tool, wire brush all the rust off it, spray it with WD40 and in 6 months I guarantee it will be rusty again...do the same with INOX and it will be a looooong time before you see any signs of rust again.

Cheers from Port Vila
Hi to Yvonne

All the best
Alan
SY Elyse SM437


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@> wrote:

Hi All,
these sort of problems arise from corrosion in our salt laden atmosphere, any electrical connection is vulnerable. The answer is to liberally and regularly spray all connections, alternators and electric engines in the engine room with WD40 or in NZ CRC 5.56. (It feels strange to spray a liquid into an electric motor but it works) Avoid rubber componants as much as possible (not vital) DO NOT use lubricant enhanced products, as these may be electrically conductive with resultant issues. They may be longer lasting in stopping rust but that is not our issue here 
WD 40 (WD = water dispersant) It gets in below and replaces it.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Ovalau Island Fiji 


________________________________
From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 5:25 PM
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

 


Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to go to anchorage. Nothing…no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the problem. And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.
Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others little cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428