Date   

Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

lior 555 <lior246@...>
 

Hi Alan

I searched in google for INOX and did not find anythithing. Can you maybe
write me where in Europe ist it possible to purchase it?

Thanks
Lior



2013/7/6 alan_leslie_elyes_sm2k <divanz620@...>

**


Hi Danny,

I understand what you are saying here, but I would NEVER use WD40 on
anything that I wanted not to corrode. WD40 might be fine at dispersing the
water initially , but its chemical makeup makes it hydrophilic (ie it
attracts water), better in my humble opinion to use a product that it is
intrinsically hydrophobic (ie repels water) like INOX...I don't carry WD 40.
If you want to test the theory, get an old rusty tool, wire brush all the
rust off it, spray it with WD40 and in 6 months I guarantee it will be
rusty again...do the same with INOX and it will be a looooong time before
you see any signs of rust again.

Cheers from Port Vila
Hi to Yvonne

All the best
Alan
SY Elyse SM437



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
wrote:

Hi All,
these sort of problems arise from corrosion in our salt laden
atmosphere, any electrical connection is vulnerable. The answer is to
liberally and regularly spray all connections, alternators and electric
engines in the engine room with WD40 or in NZ CRC 5.56. (It feels strange
to spray a liquid into an electric motor but it works) Avoid rubber
componants as much as possible (not vital) DO NOT use lubricant enhanced
products, as these may be electrically conductive with resultant issues.
They may be longer lasting in stopping rust but that is not our issue here¬
WD 40 (WD = water dispersant)¬ It gets in below and replaces it.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Ovalau Island Fiji¬


________________________________
From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 5:25 PM
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

¬


Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to go to
anchorage. Nothing…no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar
situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid
fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the problem.
And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.

Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground
solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others little
cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] no longer just a deck hand...new owner!!!

amelforme
 

Congratulations to you and your bride, Eric. You got a well loved boat that
I am sure will bring you both a great deal of pleasure.



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...





From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of eric
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 8:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] no longer just a deck hand...new owner!!!





After six years of looking at Amels and sailing many trips with a great
teacher and friend (kent on kristy - THANK YOU KENT!) I am finally an Amel
Owner. I bought Bob Rossi's Santorin on June 28th. Needless to say we are
very and excited to have purchased an Amel that was cared for and is in such
great shape. We are very thankful for the orientation Bob gave us on the
boat.

We are looking forward to many many years on our new boat named Omorfi Thea.
We will be keeping her in the Chesapeake (Virginia) until we are able to
cruise full time.

Eric J. Meury

s/v Omorfi Thea

p.s. It feels real good to finally have a proper signature on this forum.


no longer just a deck hand...new owner!!!

eric <ericmeury@...>
 

After six years of looking at Amels and sailing many trips with a great teacher and friend (kent on kristy - THANK YOU KENT!) I am finally an Amel Owner. I bought Bob Rossi's Santorin on June 28th. Needless to say we are very and excited to have purchased an Amel that was cared for and is in such great shape. We are very thankful for the orientation Bob gave us on the boat.

We are looking forward to many many years on our new boat named Omorfi Thea. We will be keeping her in the Chesapeake (Virginia) until we are able to cruise full time.

Eric J. Meury

s/v Omorfi Thea


p.s. It feels real good to finally have a proper signature on this forum.


Re: heat exchanger, belts , and oil cooler

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

It may be 24 hours before I can reply. I am off the boat now and need to return to answer your questions.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@..., kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Bill

How did you get the heat exchanger out? I removed the end caps and could
not get the exchanger to slide out of its housing. I also do not see the
part number Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2- each listed in my
manual.



Also the belts are standard dayco belts number 17475 or 13a1205 they come
in matched sets. Same belt as the yanmar belt but better construction.

They have grooves cut into the top of the belt and allows the belt to have
more flexibility. My first set I had to get from Europe as the number was
13a1200 meaning 1200 long the USA replacement is 1205 mm long .

they are available in most auto parts stores. I got this info from the
dayco engineers, the 1200 mm version is only available for export.



I also thought that I was pushing my luck with the tranny oil cooler after
10 years .In Europe it is 500+ euros. Here it was $137-

Here is a note from the USA Rep of the British manufacturer. The Unit is the
DC60 . Made by bowman. You must order the 3367 end caps or use the old ones.
http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/pdf/DC_Oil_Coolers_-_Iss_J.pdf







From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: How to acid clean sea water intercoolers





Gary,

Before removing and cleaning the heat exchanger on the Yanmar 100hp, order
these parts:
Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2 each
O Ring - Heat Exchanger 24321-001000 2 each

You may not need to replace the O rings, but the gaskets are very delicate
and will tear when the exchanger is disassembled.

I drained the coolant before starting and reused the same coolant. I also
used this opportunity to change the thermostat, gasket and the 3 fan belts.
Parts:
Thermostat 129470-49801 1 each
Gasket, Therm 129795-49551 1 each
V-Belt 25132-004600 3 each

Disassembly/assembly is straight forward. It has been several years ago and
I do not recall any issues or problems.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary, I will completely answer when I can get to my laptop. It was the
freshwater exchanger. There are some gaskets and O rings you must have
before attempting. I will come back with details and part numbers.

Bill

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Bill:

That is very helpful. Thanks for the On-Off info. I will look into it.
When used as a hull cleaner does it etch the gelcoat at all?

Which Yanmar heat heat exchanger did you clean? Was it the fresh water
to sea water exchanger, the seawater to engine oil exchanger, or the sea
water to transmission fluid exchanger?

I know that the Yanmar sear water to fresh water heat exchanger tubular
core is a separate part from the housing in which it sits. Can you elaborate
on the removal process/difficulty if indeed you have done that?

Thanks for all your help.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary,

I was in New Zealand and could not buy acid because it requires a
special license...I had a marine engineering shop do it for me.

However, I did acid-wash the heat exchanger core on the Yanmar using
On-Off which is a combo of hydrochloric, oxalic and phosphoric acids. I let
the heat exchanger core soak in the On-Off for about 5-10 minutes until it
was visibly clean. I then rinsed it with fresh water and soaked it in a
bucket of baking soda and water to neutralize any residual acid.

A side note about On-Off: On-Off is advertised as a hull cleaner, but
is also an excellent metal cleaner and rust remover. DO NOT USE it on chrome
plated turnbuckles or chrome plated winches as it will remove the chrome.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe SM2k, #387






Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield

Veit Mueller <veitm@...>
 

All:

Does anyone know the thickness?
Cheers,
Veit

Sent from my vm iPad

On Jul 8, 2013, at 1:35 AM, kimberlite@... wrote:

Richard,
do you know where i can get 30mm hose for kimberlite.it goes between the sea chest and the tranny cooler?

Ps we used to use lexan in our jewelry stores as it is stronger than plexiglass. however we found that it scratches more easily than plexiglass. we now use bulletproof glass.
fair winds
eric
sm376

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard03801
Date: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield
To: "amelyachtowners@..."

Viet hi sorry about your window.
I west Annapolis is Marine Plastics they can make and install a
new one. Might as well get both side done. We used lexan. Will
send you a photo in the AM.
In Newport on SM 209.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Amel specialist for the Northeast
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 17:48, "veitm@..." wrote:

Hello All:

Just dropped my windshield into the harbor...unrecoverable
unfortunately.Good news: hadn't started polishing yet
Bad news: need a new one.
Question: does anyone know the thickness of the original? (it
looks like either 10 or 12mm)
Also: Plexi or Polycarbonate - any experiences?

Last: can anybody suggest a good installer in the
Annapolis/Baltimore area?

Thanks,
Veit
SM215, ATMAN



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


heat exchanger, belts , and oil cooler

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

Bill

How did you get the heat exchanger out? I removed the end caps and could
not get the exchanger to slide out of its housing. I also do not see the
part number Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2- each listed in my
manual.



Also the belts are standard dayco belts number 17475 or 13a1205 they come
in matched sets. Same belt as the yanmar belt but better construction.

They have grooves cut into the top of the belt and allows the belt to have
more flexibility. My first set I had to get from Europe as the number was
13a1200 meaning 1200 long the USA replacement is 1205 mm long .

they are available in most auto parts stores. I got this info from the
dayco engineers, the 1200 mm version is only available for export.



I also thought that I was pushing my luck with the tranny oil cooler after
10 years .In Europe it is 500+ euros. Here it was $137-

Here is a note from the USA Rep of the British manufacturer. The Unit is the
DC60 . Made by bowman. You must order the 3367 end caps or use the old ones.
http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/pdf/DC_Oil_Coolers_-_Iss_J.pdf







From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Super Maramu #376





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: How to acid clean sea water intercoolers





Gary,

Before removing and cleaning the heat exchanger on the Yanmar 100hp, order
these parts:
Gasket - Heat Exchanger 129693-44420 2 each
O Ring - Heat Exchanger 24321-001000 2 each

You may not need to replace the O rings, but the gaskets are very delicate
and will tear when the exchanger is disassembled.

I drained the coolant before starting and reused the same coolant. I also
used this opportunity to change the thermostat, gasket and the 3 fan belts.
Parts:
Thermostat 129470-49801 1 each
Gasket, Therm 129795-49551 1 each
V-Belt 25132-004600 3 each

Disassembly/assembly is straight forward. It has been several years ago and
I do not recall any issues or problems.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Gary, I will completely answer when I can get to my laptop. It was the
freshwater exchanger. There are some gaskets and O rings you must have
before attempting. I will come back with details and part numbers.

Bill

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Bill:

That is very helpful. Thanks for the On-Off info. I will look into it.
When used as a hull cleaner does it etch the gelcoat at all?

Which Yanmar heat heat exchanger did you clean? Was it the fresh water
to sea water exchanger, the seawater to engine oil exchanger, or the sea
water to transmission fluid exchanger?

I know that the Yanmar sear water to fresh water heat exchanger tubular
core is a separate part from the housing in which it sits. Can you elaborate
on the removal process/difficulty if indeed you have done that?

Thanks for all your help.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Gary,

I was in New Zealand and could not buy acid because it requires a
special license...I had a marine engineering shop do it for me.

However, I did acid-wash the heat exchanger core on the Yanmar using
On-Off which is a combo of hydrochloric, oxalic and phosphoric acids. I let
the heat exchanger core soak in the On-Off for about 5-10 minutes until it
was visibly clean. I then rinsed it with fresh water and soaked it in a
bucket of baking soda and water to neutralize any residual acid.

A side note about On-Off: On-Off is advertised as a hull cleaner, but
is also an excellent metal cleaner and rust remover. DO NOT USE it on chrome
plated turnbuckles or chrome plated winches as it will remove the chrome.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe SM2k, #387


Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield

kimberlite@...
 

Richard,
do you know where i can get 30mm hose for kimberlite.it goes between the sea chest and the tranny cooler?

Ps we used to use lexan in our jewelry stores as it is stronger than plexiglass. however we found that it scratches more easily than plexiglass. we now use bulletproof glass.
fair winds
eric
sm376

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard03801
Date: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield
To: "amelyachtowners@..."

Viet hi sorry about your window.
I west Annapolis is Marine Plastics they can make and install a
new one. Might as well get both side done. We used lexan. Will
send you a photo in the AM.
In Newport on SM 209.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Amel specialist for the Northeast
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 17:48, "veitm@..." wrote:

Hello All:

Just dropped my windshield into the harbor...unrecoverable
unfortunately.Good news: hadn't started polishing yet
Bad news: need a new one.
Question: does anyone know the thickness of the original? (it
looks like either 10 or 12mm)
Also: Plexi or Polycarbonate - any experiences?

Last: can anybody suggest a good installer in the
Annapolis/Baltimore area?

Thanks,
Veit
SM215, ATMAN






Re: [Amel] headfoil

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Monel have the advantage of being inert (ie no corrosive interaction) and are many many many times stronger than aluminum,
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl


________________________________
From: Joel F Potter <jfpottercys@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, 8 July 2013 7:40 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel] headfoil

 
I believe AMEL used monel pop rivets originally on the foil/furler interface.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 2:41 PM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] headfoil

Hi we have replaced those rivets as well using automotive rivets that are coated to prevent any corrosion issues. The and the rivet setter can be had at a auto body supply store.
Sm 209 in Newport.
Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 10:42, "Mike Ondra" <mailto:mdondra%40verizon.net <mailto:mdondra%40verizon.net> > wrote:

We do not know the manufacturer of the headfoil system on our SM 2000. The 8
aluminum pop rivets between the drive wheel and the foil have now failed
twice over the past 6 years. Has anyone found a more robust fastening
technique?

Mike

s/v Aletes #240

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [Amel] SuperMaramu Windshield

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Viet hi sorry about your window.
I west Annapolis is Marine Plastics they can make and install a new one. Might as well get both side done. We used lexan. Will send you a photo in the AM.
In Newport on SM 209.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Amel specialist for the Northeast
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 17:48, "veitm@..." <veitm@...> wrote:

Hello All:

Just dropped my windshield into the harbor...unrecoverable unfortunately.
Good news: hadn't started polishing yet
Bad news: need a new one.
Question: does anyone know the thickness of the original? (it looks like either 10 or 12mm)
Also: Plexi or Polycarbonate - any experiences?

Last: can anybody suggest a good installer in the Annapolis/Baltimore area?

Thanks,
Veit
SM215, ATMAN



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


SuperMaramu Windshield

veitm@ymail.com <veitm@...>
 

Hello All:

Just dropped my windshield into the harbor...unrecoverable unfortunately.
Good news: hadn't started polishing yet
Bad news: need a new one.
Question: does anyone know the thickness of the original? (it looks like either 10 or 12mm)
Also: Plexi or Polycarbonate - any experiences?

Last: can anybody suggest a good installer in the Annapolis/Baltimore area?

Thanks,
Veit
SM215, ATMAN


Re: [Amel] headfoil

amelforme
 

I believe AMEL used monel pop rivets originally on the foil/furler interface.



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 2:41 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] headfoil





Hi we have replaced those rivets as well using automotive rivets that are coated to prevent any corrosion issues. The and the rivet setter can be had at a auto body supply store.
Sm 209 in Newport.
Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 10:42, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@... <mailto:mdondra%40verizon.net> > wrote:

We do not know the manufacturer of the headfoil system on our SM 2000. The 8
aluminum pop rivets between the drive wheel and the foil have now failed
twice over the past 6 years. Has anyone found a more robust fastening
technique?

Mike

s/v Aletes #240



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] headfoil

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi we have replaced those rivets as well using automotive rivets that are coated to prevent any corrosion issues. The and the rivet setter can be had at a auto body supply store.
Sm 209 in Newport.
Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 7, 2013, at 10:42, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

We do not know the manufacturer of the headfoil system on our SM 2000. The 8
aluminum pop rivets between the drive wheel and the foil have now failed
twice over the past 6 years. Has anyone found a more robust fastening
technique?

Mike

s/v Aletes #240

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] headfoil

karkauai
 

That's odd.  I've looked at my foils 3 times since I've had Kristy (6 yrs) and she's now 15 yrs old.  No problems apparant.  I wonder why they are failing?
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick GA USA
 

From: Mike Ondra <mdondra@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:42 AM
Subject: [Amel] headfoil

 
We do not know the manufacturer of the headfoil system on our SM 2000. The 8
aluminum pop rivets between the drive wheel and the foil have now failed
twice over the past 6 years. Has anyone found a more robust fastening
technique?

Mike

s/v Aletes #240






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


headfoil

Mike Ondra
 

We do not know the manufacturer of the headfoil system on our SM 2000. The 8
aluminum pop rivets between the drive wheel and the foil have now failed
twice over the past 6 years. Has anyone found a more robust fastening
technique?



Mike

s/v Aletes #240


Re: Disturbing messages from Turkey

bent_jyllinge
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "John Hollamby" <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Hello Bill and Judy,
I have some friends who were going to spend a few days holiday in Turkey with their children.I have just received a couple of messages forwarded from Turks warning about the troubles from which it would appear that things could get worse not better on the basis that many are unhappy about the trend away from the secular state to an Islamic one.
Do you have any views for those who were intending to sail to Turkey this season?

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Malta
I was in Istanbul the week before last, when it was supposed to be quite a lot of trouble. I saw nothing. My colleague and his wife even went for a sightseeing to the Taksim Square, they saw nothing. I think it will be OK....


Stern tube bearing

bent_jyllinge
 

I am not quite sure if this is the correct English term. I have also seen cutlass bearing and shaft log. I am refereing to the bearing in the stern tube, where the prop shaft enters the sea.

In my Mango this bearing is bronze, and I would like to replace it due to wear. The only bearing I can find with the correct outer dimension is a rubber bearing.

Will this be as good as the bronze one, maybe todays standard is a rubber bearing?


Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Allan, my love affair with CRC/WD40 began 15 years ago on a previous boat. A salt water hose burst and liberally dosed the alternator with floods of salt water. Understandably it objected and stopped working. On the basis that fresh water had to be better than salt, on arrival back at the mooring I poured liberal quantities of fresh water over the alternator. Then, again thinking it had to be better than water I emptied a can of CRC (WD40) into it and the alternator never mised a beat for the next 9 years. I cannot agree that it attracts water. Yes it is not a rust preventative to the degree that inox may be but it surely displaces water.
I would appreciate it if you would try spraying inox into alternators and electric motors and let me know the result because I would be a bit nervous to do that but it my well be OK.
While I am sure it waits to leap up and attack me, I have not to date had any of the conectivity issues many other Amels  have had around the electrics in the engine room and rightly or wrongly I put it down to my CRC/WD40 regimen.
Really hope you are enjoying your new boat and it is great to have your experienced input to the forum.
Kind regards
Danny
SM299
Ocean Pearl.
Currently  17.38 S 178.34 E Fiji   
ahoo.fr>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, 6 July 2013 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

 
Hi Danny,

I understand what you are saying here, but I would NEVER use WD40 on anything that I wanted not to corrode. WD40 might be fine at dispersing the water initially , but its chemical makeup makes it hydrophilic (ie it attracts water), better in my humble opinion to use a product that it is intrinsically hydrophobic (ie repels water) like INOX...I don't carry WD 40.
If you want to test the theory, get an old rusty tool, wire brush all the rust off it, spray it with WD40 and in 6 months I guarantee it will be rusty again...do the same with INOX and it will be a looooong time before you see any signs of rust again.

Cheers from Port Vila
Hi to Yvonne

All the best
Alan
SY Elyse SM437

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi All,
these sort of problems arise from corrosion in our salt laden atmosphere, any electrical connection is vulnerable. The answer is to liberally and regularly spray all connections, alternators and electric engines in the engine room with WD40 or in NZ CRC 5.56. (It feels strange to spray a liquid into an electric motor but it works) Avoid rubber componants as much as possible (not vital) DO NOT use lubricant enhanced products, as these may be electrically conductive with resultant issues. They may be longer lasting in stopping rust but that is not our issue here√ā¬†
WD 40 (WD = water dispersant)√ā¬†It gets in below and replaces it.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Ovalau Island Fiji√ā¬†


________________________________
From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@...>
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 5:25 PM
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

√ā¬†


Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to go to anchorage. Nothing√Ę‚ā¨¬¶no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the problem. And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.
Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others little cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428






isolated ground mdkav generator

kimberlite@...
 

It might be old age catching up with me, but i think i recall seeing a post about the fact that the heat
exchanger on this generator is electrically isolated from the grounding of the generator.
. I believe on my generator there is a braided strap connected from the heat
exchanger to the pan of the generator..is this correct.?
possibly the entire generator is isolated from the negative side of the battery bank except when the engine starts?????


Re: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

minaxi53
 

I use Lanolin, if its good enough for baby bums, it's good enough for electrical connections.
Bob
Minaxi sm6

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "alan_leslie_elyes_sm2k" <divanz620@...> wrote:

Hi Danny,

I understand what you are saying here, but I would NEVER use WD40 on anything that I wanted not to corrode. WD40 might be fine at dispersing the water initially , but its chemical makeup makes it hydrophilic (ie it attracts water), better in my humble opinion to use a product that it is intrinsically hydrophobic (ie repels water) like INOX...I don't carry WD 40.
If you want to test the theory, get an old rusty tool, wire brush all the rust off it, spray it with WD40 and in 6 months I guarantee it will be rusty again...do the same with INOX and it will be a looooong time before you see any signs of rust again.

Cheers from Port Vila
Hi to Yvonne

All the best
Alan
SY Elyse SM437


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@> wrote:

Hi All,
these sort of problems arise from corrosion in our salt laden atmosphere, any electrical connection is vulnerable. The answer is to liberally and regularly spray all connections, alternators and electric engines in the engine room with WD40 or in NZ CRC 5.56. (It feels strange to spray a liquid into an electric motor but it works) Avoid rubber componants as much as possible (not vital) DO NOT use lubricant enhanced products, as these may be electrically conductive with resultant issues. They may be longer lasting in stopping rust but that is not our issue here√ā¬†
WD 40 (WD = water dispersant)√ā¬†It gets in below and replaces it.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Ovalau Island Fiji√ā¬†


________________________________
From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2013 5:25 PM
Subject: [Amel] Yanmar ground solenoid

√ā¬†


Hi to all,
at sunset , sailing Water Bligh, Fiji, I had to start my Yanmar to go to anchorage. Nothing√Ę‚ā¨¬¶no engine. At the moment I remembered a similar situation when we were sailing Eolie, Italy. It was the ground solenoid fault. A W40 spray under the black rubber cover button solved the problem. And it was also in this very adrenalitic situation.
Now for me it is enough ! I want to eliminate/ bypass the ground solenoid.
Any suggestions ?
If I directly connect the 2 black cables, what about the others little cables arriving to solenoid ?
May I have problem to switch off the engine ?
Thanks so much in advance
Giovanni TESTA
Sv EUTIKIA, SM2K n 428






Re: YANMAR SOLENOID

Mark Erdos
 

From experience with a previous boat: I found that starting the engine
repeatedly with a battery that is not fully charged or has too low
cranking amps can cause the solenoid to stick and fail.

MarK
SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us