Date   

Cockpit enclosure

pepinoamel <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Everyone,

 

I just put photos of my cockpit enclosure.  We use it all winter and in summer we leave the top from the bimini to the mizzen bar up as well to have better shade.  I'm looking to have a fibreglass hardtop made as it gets hot underneath and would be the ideal for solar panels.

 

Gerhard Hoffmann

SM 381

Lefkas, Greece


Re: [Amel] Hardtop Bimini for SM

pepinoamel <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Andrew,

 

I'm still talking with the fibreglass man here but so far I haven't seen examples of his actual work and I don't know if I'll go ahead with it without knowing how good his work is.

 

I see you were also asking for pictures of a cockpit enclosure.  I've posted some pictures of ours in the photo section.  You can see how the rear end is attached to the mizzen shrouds and boom.

 

Gerhard Hoffmann

SM 381

Lefkas, Greece 

On 4 Nov 2013, at 13:22, "pepinoamel" <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

I'm in Lefkas, Greece and am contemplating having a hardtop bimini made in fibreglass.  As a lot of expense goes into building the original mould, is anybody interested in having one built as well?  Alternatively, has anyone had one built for a Super Maramu, where I could order one?

 

Gerhard Hoffmann

Pepino, SM2000 No. 381

Lefkas, Greece


Re: Amel Super Maramu Manual

yahoogroups@...
 

Amel Owners Manuals now at Dropbox:


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8l83rx49zivv1o0/VgejkZ579N


Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <chrisflack39@...> wrote:

Hello Bill,


We are just going through the process of purchasing a 1990 Super Maramu in Cessme Turkey and was wondering if you still have these manuals available or if you could upload them somewhere again please? Eg Dropbox


Cheers

Chris 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Sorry about that...my mistake.

I have uploaded all 3 pieces of the owners manual to the same website.

They are:
(1)Previous Uploaded:
Amel Super Maramu Owner's Manual with Optional_equipment.pdf (20.14MB) Download Link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/ewtufc

(2)Uploaded Today:
Amel Super Maramu Manual.pdf (16.80MB)
Download Link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/py9md3

(3)Uploaded Today:
Amel Super Maramu Owners_Manual_CP_fuel_heater.pdf (25MB)
Download Link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/kvoxoz

The files will be available for download for a limited time only

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Marmaris, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "islandbwoy4434" <terencesingh@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you for making this available. Do you have a soft copy of the Owners Manual? The document I downloaded only displayed optional equipment only.
> Many thanks,
> Terry&Dena
> SV Libby
> SM 196
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:
> >
> > There are a few new members of this group that are interested in buying a Super Maramu. Of course, they have lots of questions and are trying to get answers here.
> >
> > In order to help them, I have uploaded the Amel Super Maramu Owner's Manual with Optional_equipment.pdf (20.14MB) to sendspace.com and it is located at http://www.sendspace.com/file/ewtufc
> >
> > It will be at the above location for 30 days.
> >
> > Let me know if you have difficulty downloading it. Email me at Bill"at"svbebe.com
> >
> > Bill
> > BeBe, SM2k, #387
> > Currently Marmaris, Turkey
> >
>


Great news story about Moon Dog (John and Ruth Martin)

yahoogroups@...
 

Follow this link to a story about fellow Amel Super Maramu owners, John and Ruth Martin.



Great job, Moon Dog!

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387


Re: [Amel] Amel Bimini vs Winter Cover

yahoogroups@...
 

Mark,


Follow this link to our blog when we were in New Zealand...there is a photo of the inside of the cockpit enclosure. 


http://svbebe.blogspot.com/2009/05/leaving-opua-tomorrow-morning.html


Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Currently Fethiye, Turkey 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Mark,

I will post a photo later, but I believe I can describe it for you.

First, locate the cockpit full enclosure tie down cleats which are stainless and about 1.3 inches wide. They line up with the back edge of your bimini. One on the cockpit starboard seat, one on the lazarette lid (Port seat), and two on the engine room lid (one on each side).

These cleats are used to secure the bottom edge of the enclosure. The enclosure is made of a combination of clear plastic and the same material as the the bimini top (like the side panels), with 90% of it being clear. The enclosure zips to the rear of the bimini top and to each of the side panels. The enclosure has a zippered "door" opening.  You do not have to untie or unzip anything to get access to the engine room. It is really quite nice, but as you can understand, it does not enclose all of the cockpit. It requires no other stainless tubes or any other support pieces.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387


On Tue, Nov 5, 2013 at 6:14 PM, Mark Hayden <markghayden@...> wrote:
 

We are planning to order a new bimini for our Super Maramu 2000 from Amel.  We were presented with an option for a “winter cover” it apparently includes extra tubes as "is meant to shut the entire cockpit especially when you have bad weather conditions.”  Unfortunately, Amel could not provide any pictures and we’re having trouble understanding this.  We have 2 infants and so the ability to shut the cockpit is quite intriguing for us.


Does anyone else have an Amel “winter cover”?  Can you point me to pictures or post some?

Is a winter cover used in place of a bimini or is it additional piece that requires you have the standard Amel bimini.

Any help is appreciated.

fair winds,
Mark
SV Northfork
SM2K 331


Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

I just sent you the Skype request.
Still not sure I will be able to skype you.


--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:50 PM
















 









Alex, skype me at
billandjudy_rouse
Bill

On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
3:47 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
wrote:

















 









One more question...

What do you estimate is the distance to the water from the
where the lip seal seats on your boat?

(Just trying to see how much weight I have to move).



I will say, I have notice a lot more Weather Helm recently,
so unloading the bow sounds good.



sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as
expected

To: "amelyachtowners@..."
<amelyachtowners@...>



Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:29 PM

































 



















Alex,

One more thing. I looked at your photos again.

Regarding the photo of the inside of the tube opening
where

you have removed the lip seal and donut: Is that sea

water about 25mm from the lip seal seat?





If that is sea water, I am certain that your bow

is too low in the water...maybe too much weight

forward.

Let me know.

Bill







On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at

3:25 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>

wrote:





Alex,

Number of foam donuts and retaining

screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on

either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam
on

the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't
add

anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3

foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the
same

go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the
washer

and screw holding down the lip seal was something that
Amel

added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and
a

self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.







Regarding the water egress past the tool

into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof

grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube,
then

clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of

tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.







Bow Thruster in Down

Position: Water is most likely to enter when the

bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous
owner

may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was

happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long

distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down.
When

we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin

the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the

switch to the down position. When we are finished with the

bow thruster we move it up and pin it.







Hope this helps.

BillBeBe



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at

2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>

wrote:





































 























Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.



I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once
I

am done.







I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;



http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html







First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is

at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the
electric

motor).



Anyone else with the same?







Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer

arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver

instruction).



Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them
as

the Lip Seal always stay down.







I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the

shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to
go

through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape.
But

some water, went through when the bow thruster went under

water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put
it

back. Any advice?









For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I

turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under

water transition) then just plain black oil.







The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't

imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the

pictures.







The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)







Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not
feel

as tight as the new ones I have.



For sure water is coming from there.



Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended
create

this problem?







Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?



It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to
the

top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem?

(constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).







Thanks in advance for all your replies...







Sincerely, Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Seabrook, Texas, USA


Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

+90 536 220 2645

Bill


On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 3:52 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:
 



Hello Bill,

I have the regular 300 ft of chain.

I have a ballonner and spinaker in one storage and lots of docking rope, spare halyard, short chain, spare anchor in the other.

But I think my problem is that I loaded all my heavy book, sewing machine, tools as forward as I could.
Not sure I could rebalance to obtain 4 to 5 inches, but will try for sure.

On your last email, I am using a broardband and I don't think I can skype you...
I don't mind to call you (if this is ok and no roaming to you).



Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:47 PM

















 









Alex,
The water level in ours when we did in-the-water
repair was about 4 to 5 inches below the lip seal...and I
thought that was a little high. I looked for a photo, but do
not have a good one.


How much anchor chain do you have in the bow of
the boat. How much heavy items do you have in the sail
lockers?
Bill



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 3:42 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar
<uster@...>
wrote:

















 











Hello Bill,



Yes, it is sea water, about 25 mm or even 20 mm.

The bow thruster leak start to appear 3 months ago, and this
is (coincidence) when I started to bring more of my
belonging - which I put mostly forward (since it look like
the stern was sitting in the water more than the bow). So I
was wondering if may be lack of water pocket would put more
(water) pressure against the lip seal, etc.





I use the bow thruster just when ready to dock, so put it
down usually 1/2 mile. My speed is usually 2 knot, but a
few times I saw 3, so I wondered if may be the tube put too
much lateral pressure on the Lip Seal.





About the "2 foam seal" on either side. Amel
Martinique did the last service, I would assume they
know/knew what they are doing... but I am wondering...
(since they put 80/90 instead of the 90 oil). So I have 2
outside (you can see on the pictures), 1 inside (on top of
the Lip Seal - not picture) and the extra one (right below
the electric motor (you can see on the picture).





Ok will put lots of grease when where the tool and tube meet
when I put it back.



Thanks again for your great help, if you think of anything
let me know....

Hello to Judy! Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as
expected

To: "amelyachtowners@..."
<amelyachtowners@...>



Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:29 PM

































 



















Alex,

One more thing. I looked at your photos again.

Regarding the photo of the inside of the tube opening
where

you have removed the lip seal and donut: Is that sea

water about 25mm from the lip seal seat?





If that is sea water, I am certain that your bow

is too low in the water...maybe too much weight

forward.

Let me know.

Bill







On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at

3:25 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>

wrote:





Alex,

Number of foam donuts and retaining

screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on

either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam
on

the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't
add

anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3

foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the
same

go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the
washer

and screw holding down the lip seal was something that
Amel

added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and
a

self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.







Regarding the water egress past the tool

into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof

grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube,
then

clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of

tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.







Bow Thruster in Down

Position: Water is most likely to enter when the

bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous
owner

may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was

happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long

distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down.
When

we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin

the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the

switch to the down position. When we are finished with the

bow thruster we move it up and pin it.







Hope this helps.

BillBeBe



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at

2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>

wrote:





































 























Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.



I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once
I

am done.







I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;



http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html







First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is

at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the
electric

motor).



Anyone else with the same?







Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer

arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver

instruction).



Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them
as

the Lip Seal always stay down.







I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the

shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to
go

through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape.
But

some water, went through when the bow thruster went under

water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put
it

back. Any advice?









For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I

turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under

water transition) then just plain black oil.







The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't

imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the

pictures.







The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)







Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not
feel

as tight as the new ones I have.



For sure water is coming from there.



Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended
create

this problem?







Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?



It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to
the

top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem?

(constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).







Thanks in advance for all your replies...







Sincerely, Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Seabrook, Texas, USA
























































































































































Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Bill,

I have the regular 300 ft of chain.

I have a ballonner and spinaker in one storage and lots of docking rope, spare halyard, short chain, spare anchor in the other.

But I think my problem is that I loaded all my heavy book, sewing machine, tools as forward as I could.
Not sure I could rebalance to obtain 4 to 5 inches, but will try for sure.

On your last email, I am using a broardband and I don't think I can skype you...
I don't mind to call you (if this is ok and no roaming to you).

Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:47 PM
















 









Alex,
The water level in ours when we did in-the-water
repair was about 4 to 5 inches below the lip seal...and I
thought that was a little high. I looked for a photo, but do
not have a good one.


How much anchor chain do you have in the bow of
the boat. How much heavy items do you have in the sail
lockers?
Bill



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 3:42 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar
<uster@...>
wrote:

















 











Hello Bill,



Yes, it is sea water, about 25 mm or even 20 mm.

The bow thruster leak start to appear 3 months ago, and this
is (coincidence) when I started to bring more of my
belonging - which I put mostly forward (since it look like
the stern was sitting in the water more than the bow). So I
was wondering if may be lack of water pocket would put more
(water) pressure against the lip seal, etc.





I use the bow thruster just when ready to dock, so put it
down usually 1/2 mile. My speed is usually 2 knot, but a
few times I saw 3, so I wondered if may be the tube put too
much lateral pressure on the Lip Seal.





About the "2 foam seal" on either side. Amel
Martinique did the last service, I would assume they
know/knew what they are doing... but I am wondering...
(since they put 80/90 instead of the 90 oil). So I have 2
outside (you can see on the pictures), 1 inside (on top of
the Lip Seal - not picture) and the extra one (right below
the electric motor (you can see on the picture).





Ok will put lots of grease when where the tool and tube meet
when I put it back.



Thanks again for your great help, if you think of anything
let me know....

Hello to Judy! Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as
expected

To: "amelyachtowners@..."
<amelyachtowners@...>



Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:29 PM

































 



















Alex,

One more thing. I looked at your photos again.

Regarding the photo of the inside of the tube opening
where

you have removed the lip seal and donut: Is that sea

water about 25mm from the lip seal seat?





If that is sea water, I am certain that your bow

is too low in the water...maybe too much weight

forward.

Let me know.

Bill







On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at

3:25 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>

wrote:





Alex,

Number of foam donuts and retaining

screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on

either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam
on

the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't
add

anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3

foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the
same

go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the
washer

and screw holding down the lip seal was something that
Amel

added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and
a

self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.







Regarding the water egress past the tool

into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof

grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube,
then

clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of

tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.







Bow Thruster in Down

Position: Water is most likely to enter when the

bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous
owner

may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was

happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long

distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down.
When

we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin

the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the

switch to the down position. When we are finished with the

bow thruster we move it up and pin it.







Hope this helps.

BillBeBe



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at

2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>

wrote:





































 























Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.



I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once
I

am done.







I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;



http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html







First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is

at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the
electric

motor).



Anyone else with the same?







Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer

arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver

instruction).



Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them
as

the Lip Seal always stay down.







I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the

shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to
go

through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape.
But

some water, went through when the bow thruster went under

water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put
it

back. Any advice?









For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I

turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under

water transition) then just plain black oil.







The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't

imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the

pictures.







The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)







Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not
feel

as tight as the new ones I have.



For sure water is coming from there.



Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended
create

this problem?







Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?



It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to
the

top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem?

(constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).







Thanks in advance for all your replies...







Sincerely, Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Seabrook, Texas, USA


Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex, skype me at billandjudy_rouse

Bill


On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 3:47 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:
 

One more question...
What do you estimate is the distance to the water from the where the lip seal seats on your boat?
(Just trying to see how much weight I have to move).

I will say, I have notice a lot more Weather Helm recently, so unloading the bow sounds good.

sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:29 PM
















 









Alex,
One more thing. I looked at your photos again.
Regarding the photo of the inside of the tube opening where
you have removed the lip seal and donut: Is that sea
water about 25mm from the lip seal seat?


If that is sea water, I am certain that your bow
is too low in the water...maybe too much weight
forward.
Let me know.
Bill



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
3:25 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:


Alex,
Number of foam donuts and retaining
screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on
either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam on
the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't add
anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3
foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the same
go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the washer
and screw holding down the lip seal was something that Amel
added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and a
self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.



Regarding the water egress past the tool
into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof
grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube, then
clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of
tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.



Bow Thruster in Down
Position: Water is most likely to enter when the
bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous owner
may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was
happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long
distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down. When
we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin
the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the
switch to the down position. When we are finished with the
bow thruster we move it up and pin it.



Hope this helps.
BillBeBe

On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
wrote:


















 











Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.

I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once I
am done.



I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;

http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html



First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is
at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the electric
motor).

Anyone else with the same?



Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer
arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver
instruction).

Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them as
the Lip Seal always stay down.



I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the
shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to go
through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape. But
some water, went through when the bow thruster went under
water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put it
back. Any advice?




For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I
turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under
water transition) then just plain black oil.



The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't
imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the
pictures.



The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)



Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not feel
as tight as the new ones I have.

For sure water is coming from there.

Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended create
this problem?



Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?

It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to the
top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem?
(constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).



Thanks in advance for all your replies...



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA






















































Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex,

The water level in ours when we did in-the-water repair was about 4 to 5 inches below the lip seal...and I thought that was a little high. I looked for a photo, but do not have a good one.

How much anchor chain do you have in the bow of the boat. How much heavy items do you have in the sail lockers?

Bill


On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 3:42 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:

 


Hello Bill,

Yes, it is sea water, about 25 mm or even 20 mm.
The bow thruster leak start to appear 3 months ago, and this is (coincidence) when I started to bring more of my belonging - which I put mostly forward (since it look like the stern was sitting in the water more than the bow). So I was wondering if may be lack of water pocket would put more (water) pressure against the lip seal, etc.

I use the bow thruster just when ready to dock, so put it down usually 1/2 mile. My speed is usually 2 knot, but a few times I saw 3, so I wondered if may be the tube put too much lateral pressure on the Lip Seal.

About the "2 foam seal" on either side. Amel Martinique did the last service, I would assume they know/knew what they are doing... but I am wondering... (since they put 80/90 instead of the 90 oil). So I have 2 outside (you can see on the pictures), 1 inside (on top of the Lip Seal - not picture) and the extra one (right below the electric motor (you can see on the picture).

Ok will put lots of grease when where the tool and tube meet when I put it back.

Thanks again for your great help, if you think of anything let me know....
Hello to Judy! Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:29 PM


















 









Alex,
One more thing. I looked at your photos again.
Regarding the photo of the inside of the tube opening where
you have removed the lip seal and donut: Is that sea
water about 25mm from the lip seal seat?


If that is sea water, I am certain that your bow
is too low in the water...maybe too much weight
forward.
Let me know.
Bill



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
3:25 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:


Alex,
Number of foam donuts and retaining
screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on
either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam on
the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't add
anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3
foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the same
go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the washer
and screw holding down the lip seal was something that Amel
added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and a
self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.



Regarding the water egress past the tool
into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof
grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube, then
clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of
tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.



Bow Thruster in Down
Position: Water is most likely to enter when the
bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous owner
may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was
happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long
distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down. When
we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin
the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the
switch to the down position. When we are finished with the
bow thruster we move it up and pin it.



Hope this helps.
BillBeBe

On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
wrote:


















 











Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.

I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once I
am done.



I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;

http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html



First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is
at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the electric
motor).

Anyone else with the same?



Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer
arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver
instruction).

Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them as
the Lip Seal always stay down.



I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the
shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to go
through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape. But
some water, went through when the bow thruster went under
water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put it
back. Any advice?




For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I
turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under
water transition) then just plain black oil.



The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't
imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the
pictures.



The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)



Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not feel
as tight as the new ones I have.

For sure water is coming from there.

Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended create
this problem?



Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?

It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to the
top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem?
(constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).



Thanks in advance for all your replies...



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA






















































Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

One more question...
What do you estimate is the distance to the water from the where the lip seal seats on your boat?
(Just trying to see how much weight I have to move).

I will say, I have notice a lot more Weather Helm recently, so unloading the bow sounds good.

sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:29 PM
















 









Alex,
One more thing. I looked at your photos again.
Regarding the photo of the inside of the tube opening where
you have removed the lip seal and donut: Is that sea
water about 25mm from the lip seal seat?


If that is sea water, I am certain that your bow
is too low in the water...maybe too much weight
forward.
Let me know.
Bill



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
3:25 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:


Alex,
Number of foam donuts and retaining
screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on
either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam on
the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't add
anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3
foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the same
go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the washer
and screw holding down the lip seal was something that Amel
added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and a
self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.



Regarding the water egress past the tool
into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof
grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube, then
clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of
tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.



Bow Thruster in Down
Position: Water is most likely to enter when the
bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous owner
may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was
happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long
distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down. When
we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin
the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the
switch to the down position. When we are finished with the
bow thruster we move it up and pin it.



Hope this helps.
BillBeBe

On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
wrote:


















 











Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.

I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once I
am done.



I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;

http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html



First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is
at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the electric
motor).

Anyone else with the same?



Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer
arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver
instruction).

Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them as
the Lip Seal always stay down.



I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the
shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to go
through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape. But
some water, went through when the bow thruster went under
water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put it
back. Any advice?




For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I
turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under
water transition) then just plain black oil.



The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't
imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the
pictures.



The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)



Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not feel
as tight as the new ones I have.

For sure water is coming from there.

Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended create
this problem?



Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?

It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to the
top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem?
(constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).



Thanks in advance for all your replies...



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA


Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Bill,

Yes, it is sea water, about 25 mm or even 20 mm.
The bow thruster leak start to appear 3 months ago, and this is (coincidence) when I started to bring more of my belonging - which I put mostly forward (since it look like the stern was sitting in the water more than the bow). So I was wondering if may be lack of water pocket would put more (water) pressure against the lip seal, etc.

I use the bow thruster just when ready to dock, so put it down usually 1/2 mile. My speed is usually 2 knot, but a few times I saw 3, so I wondered if may be the tube put too much lateral pressure on the Lip Seal.

About the "2 foam seal" on either side. Amel Martinique did the last service, I would assume they know/knew what they are doing... but I am wondering... (since they put 80/90 instead of the 90 oil). So I have 2 outside (you can see on the pictures), 1 inside (on top of the Lip Seal - not picture) and the extra one (right below the electric motor (you can see on the picture).

Ok will put lots of grease when where the tool and tube meet when I put it back.

Thanks again for your great help, if you think of anything let me know....
Hello to Judy! Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11/5/13, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, November 5, 2013, 9:29 PM
















 









Alex,
One more thing. I looked at your photos again.
Regarding the photo of the inside of the tube opening where
you have removed the lip seal and donut: Is that sea
water about 25mm from the lip seal seat?


If that is sea water, I am certain that your bow
is too low in the water...maybe too much weight
forward.
Let me know.
Bill



On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
3:25 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:


Alex,
Number of foam donuts and retaining
screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on
either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam on
the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't add
anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3
foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the same
go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the washer
and screw holding down the lip seal was something that Amel
added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and a
self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.



Regarding the water egress past the tool
into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof
grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube, then
clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of
tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.



Bow Thruster in Down
Position: Water is most likely to enter when the
bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous owner
may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was
happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long
distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down. When
we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin
the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the
switch to the down position. When we are finished with the
bow thruster we move it up and pin it.



Hope this helps.
BillBeBe

On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at
2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
wrote:


















 











Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.

I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once I
am done.



I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;

http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html



First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is
at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the electric
motor).

Anyone else with the same?



Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer
arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver
instruction).

Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them as
the Lip Seal always stay down.



I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the
shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to go
through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape. But
some water, went through when the bow thruster went under
water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put it
back. Any advice?




For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I
turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under
water transition) then just plain black oil.



The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't
imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the
pictures.



The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)



Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not feel
as tight as the new ones I have.

For sure water is coming from there.

Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended create
this problem?



Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?

It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to the
top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem?
(constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).



Thanks in advance for all your replies...



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA


Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex,

One more thing. I looked at your photos again. Regarding the photo of the inside of the tube opening where you have removed the lip seal and donut: Is that sea water about 25mm from the lip seal seat?

If that is sea water, I am certain that your bow is too low in the water...maybe too much weight forward.

Let me know.

Bill


On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 3:25 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Alex,

Number of foam donuts and retaining screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam on the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't add anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3 foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the same go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the washer and screw holding down the lip seal was something that Amel added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and a self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.

Regarding the water egress past the tool into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube, then clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.

Bow Thruster in Down Position: Water is most likely to enter when the bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous owner may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down. When we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the switch to the down position. When we are finished with the bow thruster we move it up and pin it.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe


On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:
 


Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.
I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once I am done.

I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html

First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the electric motor).
Anyone else with the same?

Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver instruction).
Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them as the Lip Seal always stay down.

I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to go through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape. But some water, went through when the bow thruster went under water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put it back. Any advice?
For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under water transition) then just plain black oil.

The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the pictures.

The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)

Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not feel as tight as the new ones I have.
For sure water is coming from there.
Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended create this problem?

Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?
It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to the top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem? (constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).

Thanks in advance for all your replies...

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA





Re: [Amel] Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex,

Number of foam donuts and retaining screw: I am not sure why you have two foam seals on either side. I think this is wrong and possibly the foam on the top side was the wrong material. Sorry, I can't add anything else, other than to tell you that in a set of 3 foam donut seals, the two foam-like donuts that are the same go outside and the other one is inside. Possibly the washer and screw holding down the lip seal was something that Amel added in later models. It is a simple stainless washer and a self-tapping screw...probably a good idea to add.

Regarding the water egress past the tool into the bow thruster: Use plenty of waterproof grease where the tool meets and connects with the tube, then clean off the grease on the outside and add some sort of tape that is sticky to seal as best you can.

Bow Thruster in Down Position: Water is most likely to enter when the bow thruster is down. I think that maybe the previous owner may have added an extra foam donut inside because this was happening. For what it is worth, we never go any long distance or at any speed when the bow thruster is down. When we are near the spot that we are going to use it, we unpin the bow thruster and just before using it, we move the switch to the down position. When we are finished with the bow thruster we move it up and pin it.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe


On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 2:44 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:
 


Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.
I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once I am done.

I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html

First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the electric motor).
Anyone else with the same?

Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver instruction).
Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them as the Lip Seal always stay down.

I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to go through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape. But some water, went through when the bow thruster went under water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put it back. Any advice?
For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under water transition) then just plain black oil.

The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the pictures.

The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)

Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not feel as tight as the new ones I have.
For sure water is coming from there.
Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended create this problem?

Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?
It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to the top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem? (constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).

Thanks in advance for all your replies...

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA




Bow Thruster repair not going as expected

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Well, the bow Thruster repair is not going as expected.
I took some pictures (preparation, etc.) I will post once I am done.

I only posted the relevant pictures to the complications;
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_repair_issue.html

First I never noted there was a 4th foam seal. This one is at the top of the fiberglass shaft (right below the electric motor).
Anyone else with the same?

Also, I do not have the 2 retaining screw & washer arround the Lip Seal (mentionned in Gary Silver instruction).
Doesn't look like I/nor previous owner even need them as the Lip Seal always stay down.

I first tried "rescue" tape, to put arround the shaft and the Special Amel tool, but it was too thick to go through the Lip Seal... So I used regular packing tape. But some water, went through when the bow thruster went under water, and I am worrying the same will happend when I put it back. Any advice?
For sure was no water leak (no milky oil looking) - when I turn it over to empty it, first was water (from the under water transition) then just plain black oil.

The 2 bottom foam seals look perfect to me. I can't imagine they are the reason of the leak - look at the pictures.

The single Top foam seals looked good as well (no picture)

Only the lip seal had some space/gap arround - did not feel as tight as the new ones I have.
For sure water is coming from there.
Could moving too fast with bow thruster down/extended create this problem?

Could boat (especially bow) be too loaded?
It looks to me the water lice is (dangerously) close to the top of the bow thruster cavity - could this be my problem? (constant water pressure on the Lip Seal).

Thanks in advance for all your replies...

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


Re: [Amel] Amel Bimini vs Winter Cover

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mark,

I will post a photo later, but I believe I can describe it for you.

First, locate the cockpit full enclosure tie down cleats which are stainless and about 1.3 inches wide. They line up with the back edge of your bimini. One on the cockpit starboard seat, one on the lazarette lid (Port seat), and two on the engine room lid (one on each side).

These cleats are used to secure the bottom edge of the enclosure. The enclosure is made of a combination of clear plastic and the same material as the the bimini top (like the side panels), with 90% of it being clear. The enclosure zips to the rear of the bimini top and to each of the side panels. The enclosure has a zippered "door" opening.  You do not have to untie or unzip anything to get access to the engine room. It is really quite nice, but as you can understand, it does not enclose all of the cockpit. It requires no other stainless tubes or any other support pieces.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387


On Tue, Nov 5, 2013 at 6:14 PM, Mark Hayden <markghayden@...> wrote:
 

We are planning to order a new bimini for our Super Maramu 2000 from Amel.  We were presented with an option for a “winter cover” it apparently includes extra tubes as "is meant to shut the entire cockpit especially when you have bad weather conditions.”  Unfortunately, Amel could not provide any pictures and we’re having trouble understanding this.  We have 2 infants and so the ability to shut the cockpit is quite intriguing for us.


Does anyone else have an Amel “winter cover”?  Can you point me to pictures or post some?

Is a winter cover used in place of a bimini or is it additional piece that requires you have the standard Amel bimini.

Any help is appreciated.

fair winds,
Mark
SV Northfork
SM2K 331



Re: [Amel] awlgrip

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Hans,

You will get different opinions from different people, however I would caution any opinion that states that one particular is the best. Most of us have NOT used all of the paints available and have NOT been able to compare all of them. Also, an antifouling that is good outside of the tropics may not perform in the Tropics. Then, of course, there are those harbors that are full of growth and those that are not. My experience so far is that Cartegena, Colombia and Cochin, India are the worst.

You might be better off to eliminate the worst bottom paints and ask everyone you come in contact with what is the worst antifouling they have experienced, or, that they are aware of.

We have always used International MICRON series antifouling (8 years). First we used MICRON 66 then later changed to MICRON 77 when it became available. We have logged 30,000 miles with MICRON and most of it in the tropics. We haul about every two years and renew antifouling at that time. It has performed very well and I would not change to something that I have no experience with.

Bill
BeBe


On Tue, Nov 5, 2013 at 9:52 PM, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
 

My experience with SeaHawk is the same as Ric's.  3 yrs ang going strong.  Peakes did my paint job which included sanding off all old paint, some epoxy work, priming and painting 2 coats plus a third on waterline and keel.  So far lasting better than micron 66 and the hard paint that was on the boat when I bought her..
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Nov 5, 2013, at 4:34 PM, Ric Gottschalk <ric@...> wrote:

 

The best bottom paint ever is Seahawk.   Lasted me four years & still going strong. Billy Wray' s (surveyor & rigging) wife sells it. Forgot company, but Peakes can steer you. Can't buy it in states.  It works, period.  
Cheers, Bali Hai SN 24 
Stuck in Annapolis

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc

On Nov 5, 2013, at 12:58 PM, "Dr.Hofschulte@..." <Dr.Hofschulte@...> wrote:

 

Hallo all,
what kind of antifouling do you use if you cannot get the antifouling
awlgrip GOLD LABEL BP204 charcoal black? We normally use this antifouling, but we `
but we can`t get it in Trinidad, where we will haul out the boat
We are going to sail from the Caribbean to the East cost of the US.
Thanks for your answers.
Hans-Joachim SM 2000 #436 Johanna-Amalthea



Re: [Amel] RE: Frigoboat Refrigerator Compressor Not Starting Error: 3 blinks red light

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

JP, 

Yes, a compressor normally needs more power to start.  There are no visible capacitors, but I suspect that capacitors are part of the Danfoss #101N0210 Compressor controller.

Bill
BeBe


On Tue, Nov 5, 2013 at 9:52 PM, galacsea2000 <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

I have nothing to argue with the above suggestions but I have a question connected to this analysis:

I was under the impression that, when the compressor starts, it needs more power than after it has been running for a few seconds. As a result I thought that there is one (or More) capacitors to help the compressor start. Is this correct ? if yes, could the capacitor(s) be at fault.

JP

aboard GalacSea in Trinidad



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote:

Gerhard,

It is almost always not the compressor on a Frigoboat Refrigerator.

Three red blinking lights means that the compressor failed to start. OK, here is where some of us (me included) will get confused because the problem usually is not the compressor. The compressor used by Frigoboat is mostly bullet-proof.

The power module E51600 (this is the 2"X3"X1' box where the red light is blinking) is programed to sense the power and voltage available; and stop the compressor from starting if it believes there is not enough power. It has a built in timer (don't remember, but something like 5 minutes) that will cause it to try to start again when the timer has expired. Because of this, it may work fine when batteries are fully charged (a fully charged battery bank will offset the one or two bad batteries in the bank), then fail when the battery bank charge is lower. A few bad batteries are hard to detect in a house bank as big as ours, but the Frigoboat power module does a pretty good job of letting us know!

I would do the following in order:
  1. Check your Batteries: If you have any reason to believe that any of your house batteries is bad, have the house batteries load-checked with someone capable of placing a digital load-checker on each one and giving you a printout of each battery including available CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). I do not believe that old-style battery testers are worth it...and it may even be worth buying your own tester...I have been thinking about it...it will cost $400-600, but with the cost of batteries and electricians & refrigeration mechanics, it is probably worth it.
  2. Check the refrigerant level: I hate it when refrigerator "mechanics" add refrigeran t (freon) when they have no idea the specs of the compressor, etc. Many professional and semi-professional (the guy down-the-dock) mechanics simply default to adding refrigerant for any problem. Too much refrigerant will cause the same error that you are currently getting (3 blinks "start fail"). Has someone added refrigerant? Are you sure?
  3. Check wiring: Check all the wiring and all of the connections from the fridge breaker to the E51600. Incidentally, after intermittently having the non-start problem, I found that the fridge breaker was missing a connection screw. When you check the connections, pull open the quick connect spade-type plugs and coat them with CorrosionX.
  4. Components: There are 4 electrical devices in your fridge that are interconnected...any one of these could cause this problem. It may be worth it to buy these and replace them vs using a "mechanic" (listed in the order of probability of causing you r problem):
    1. Frigoboat E51600 Power module
    2. Danfoss #101N0210 Compressor controller
    3. Frigoboat E250500 Thermostat 
    4. Compressor
My guess is that it is your batteries, or someone has added refrigerant.

I hope this helps, and please let me know the outcome as it will make me better informed and give me more experience.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 4:16 PM, <bluey@...> wrote:
Dear Bill,

I hav e been reading a lot of your contributions to the Amel owners website

 and you also have a photo section about the fridge problem you had.  I
like your blog too.  I hope it's okay that I write to you directly.

I have SM 2000 Nr. 381 (2003 model) so close to yours so I think the
system on board will be pretty much the same.  Maybe you can help me.  The
technical assistance on the Frigoboat site is down and I'm not getting
anywhere there at the moment.  The problem is:

The upright fridge cycles on and off constantly and the alarm light is
flashing 3 times with about 3 or 4 second intervals.

The compressor is running and the fridge is cooling now which it wasn't
when I had a local technician here.  He advised me to order a new
compressor.  I'm not sure if I really need a new compressor, I think there
might be something wrong with the electronics or the thermostat or maybe
just a simple contact problem.

In my manuals I got with the boat (I bought it last year), it only has a
schematic drawing of the fridge and its components but there is no
instruction booklet.  Maybe since you had a similar problem and you might
have the instruction booklets, you can tell me what the 3 red flashes

mean.

I have checked behind the fuse board to see if it's the same problem you
had with the missing screw, but it is not, mine is properly screwed down.
Do you have any suggestions?

Many thanks for any help you can provide.

Gerhard Hoffmann
Pepino SM2000 Nr. 381
Lefkas, Greece



Re: Frigoboat Refrigerator Compressor Not Starting Error: 3 blinks red light

galacsea2000 <no_reply@...>
 

I have nothing to argue with the above suggestions but I have a question connected to this analysis:

I was under the impression that, when the compressor starts, it needs more power than after it has been running for a few seconds. As a result I thought that there is one (or More) capacitors to help the compressor start. Is this correct ? if yes, could the capacitor(s) be at fault.

JP

aboard GalacSea in Trinidad



---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Gerhard,

It is almost always not the compressor on a Frigoboat Refrigerator.

Three red blinking lights means that the compressor failed to start. OK, here is where some of us (me included) will get confused because the problem usually is not the compressor. The compressor used by Frigoboat is mostly bullet-proof.

The power module E51600 (this is the 2"X3"X1' box where the red light is blinking) is programed to sense the power and voltage available; and stop the compressor from starting if it believes there is not enough power. It has a built in timer (don't remember, but something like 5 minutes) that will cause it to try to start again when the timer has expired. Because of this, it may work fine when batteries are fully charged (a fully charged battery bank will offset the one or two bad batteries in the bank), then fail when the battery bank charge is lower. A few bad batteries are hard to detect in a house bank as big as ours, but the Frigoboat power module does a pretty good job of letting us know!

I would do the following in order:
  1. Check your Batteries: If you have any reason to believe that any of your house batteries is bad, have the house batteries load-checked with someone capable of placing a digital load-checker on each one and giving you a printout of each battery including available CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). I do not believe that old-style battery testers are worth it...and it may even be worth buying your own tester...I have been thinking about it...it will cost $400-600, but with the cost of batteries and electricians & refrigeration mechanics, it is probably worth it.
  2. Check the refrigerant level: I hate it when refrigerator "mechanics" add refrigerant (freon) when they have no idea the specs of the compressor, etc. Many professional and semi-professional (the guy down-the-dock) mechanics simply default to adding refrigerant for any problem. Too much refrigerant will cause the same error that you are currently getting (3 blinks "start fail"). Has someone added refrigerant? Are you sure?
  3. Check wiring: Check all the wiring and all of the connections from the fridge breaker to the E51600. Incidentally, after intermittently having the non-start problem, I found that the fridge breaker was missing a connection screw. When you check the connections, pull open the quick connect spade-type plugs and coat them with CorrosionX.
  4. Components: There are 4 electrical devices in your fridge that are interconnected...any one of these could cause this problem. It may be worth it to buy these and replace them vs using a "mechanic" (listed in the order of probability of causing your problem):
    1. Frigoboat E51600 Power module
    2. Danfoss #101N0210 Compressor controller
    3. Frigoboat E250500 Thermostat 
    4. Compressor
My guess is that it is your batteries, or someone has added refrigerant.

I hope this helps, and please let me know the outcome as it will make me better informed and give me more experience.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 4:16 PM, <bluey@...> wrote:
Dear Bill,

I have been reading a lot of your contributions to the Amel owners website
 and you also have a photo section about the fridge problem you had.  I
like your blog too.  I hope it's okay that I write to you directly.

I have SM 2000 Nr. 381 (2003 model) so close to yours so I think the
system on board will be pretty much the same.  Maybe you can help me.  The
technical assistance on the Frigoboat site is down and I'm not getting
anywhere there at the moment.  The problem is:

The upright fridge cycles on and off constantly and the alarm light is
flashing 3 times with about 3 or 4 second intervals.

The compressor is running and the fridge is cooling now which it wasn't
when I had a local technician here.  He advised me to order a new
compressor.  I'm not sure if I really need a new compressor, I think there
might be something wrong with the electronics or the thermostat or maybe
just a simple contact problem.

In my manuals I got with the boat (I bought it last year), it only has a
schematic drawing of the fridge and its components but there is no
instruction booklet.  Maybe since you had a similar problem and you might
have the instruction booklets, you can tell me what the 3 red flashes
mean.

I have checked behind the fuse board to see if it's the same problem you
had with the missing screw, but it is not, mine is properly screwed down.
Do you have any suggestions?

Many thanks for any help you can provide.

Gerhard Hoffmann
Pepino SM2000 Nr. 381
Lefkas, Greece


Re: [Amel] awlgrip

karkauai
 

My experience with SeaHawk is the same as Ric's.  3 yrs ang going strong.  Peakes did my paint job which included sanding off all old paint, some epoxy work, priming and painting 2 coats plus a third on waterline and keel.  So far lasting better than micron 66 and the hard paint that was on the boat when I bought her..
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Nov 5, 2013, at 4:34 PM, Ric Gottschalk <ric@...> wrote:

 

The best bottom paint ever is Seahawk.   Lasted me four years & still going strong. Billy Wray' s (surveyor & rigging) wife sells it. Forgot company, but Peakes can steer you. Can't buy it in states.  It works, period.  
Cheers, Bali Hai SN 24 
Stuck in Annapolis

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Nov 5, 2013, at 12:58 PM, "Dr.Hofschulte@..." <Dr.Hofschulte@...> wrote:

 

Hallo all,
what kind of antifouling do you use if you cannot get the antifouling
awlgrip GOLD LABEL BP204 charcoal black? We normally use this antifouling, but we `
but we can`t get it in Trinidad, where we will haul out the boat
We are going to sail from the Caribbean to the East cost of the US.
Thanks for your answers.
Hans-Joachim SM 2000 #436 Johanna-Amalthea