Sorry Pat, typo by iPhone. "You aren't pushing water thru the membranes".
K
On Sep 2, 2013, at 9:07 AM, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi Pat, you aren't pushing water thru theme range when you flush, only bathing the salt water side with fresh water to carry away the salt and other contaminants that have accumulated.
Kent

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 2, 2013, at 8:42 AM, Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...> wrote:

Richard/Kent, Thanks for your reply. I assumed that you ran the w/m while pumping tank water to the pumps.I would not have thought that 40 psi would have been sufficient pressure to flow through the membranes. Thanks for setting me straight.
Thanks, Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2013 8:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] Watermaker

My understanding is that you flush with the fresh water pump. The 60 l/hr 24v watermaker is not even turned on during the flush. That's what I have been doing and the membranes are working fine after almost 6 yrs. I have even gone as long as a months without running or flushing.
Kent
SM243 Kristy

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 1, 2013, at 9:29 AM, Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...> wrote:

I meant to say I have not operated the watermaker since installing two years ago. Ian's comment about not operating it in fresh water brings up a question. When you operate the w/m with fresh water from your tank, how long do you flush it and at what pressure? I have no manual and no experience with watermakers, thus the questions.
Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2013 5:57 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] Watermaker

Ian, Thanks for your insight. I suspected that being in fresh water may have effected the pressure levels, that's why I mentioned I was in fresh water.I only ran it for a few minutes ,but the flow rate was pegged at 180 l/h, I hope I did not harm anything. I have operated it since installing it almost two years ago and have been curious if I installed it correctly.
Thanks Again,
Pat
not

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Aug 31, 2013 7:26 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] Watermaker

Hi Pat,

if the input water is not saline, then the flow rate may become
excessive damaging your membranes. I had the same experience in the Bra
D'Or Lakes in Nova Scotia and to a lesser extent near the outflow of the
Dardenelles. The advice given to me by Desssaltor was that if you must
run the water maker in conditions for which it really wasn't designed,
make sure the flow rate does dot exceed 160 l/h and accept that the high
pressure gauge is not in the green. This is normal. The pressure will
only be generated when you are trying to force salty water through the
membranes. In semi fresh water the pressure regulating knob will be
backed off quite a bit to give 160 l/h and no more.

Hope this helps.

Inn Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader Aegina Island Greece

On 30/08/2013 21:21, Patrick McAneny wrote:

I installed a 160 lt./hr. watermaker last year and today ran it for
the first time. I have never ran it or any watermaker before.My boat
is on my mooring in a river which is almost fresh. The river water
measured 425 ppm ,after running the watermaker for a few minutes the
green light came on indicating good quality and the water coming out
was 11 ppm. However the high pressure guage only went up to mid way in
the orange zone and the low pressure guage never moved at all. I had
the regulator turned fully clockwise. Has anyone have a hunch why the
gauges did not move up to the green zones ?
Thanks,
Pat SM Shenanigans

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Pat, you aren't pushing water thru theme range when you flush, only bathing the salt water side with fresh water to carry away the salt and other contaminants that have accumulated.
Kent

I have just discovered that the overflow tank for both the Yamar and the Onan is overflowing. The water is dirty. I&#39;m guessing that the heat exchanger for the Onan is leaking salt water into the coolant. Both engines run fine, and the Yanmar only has ~100 hours on it.
Anything else that could cause my problem? How big a job is it to replace the heat exchanger?
Thanks
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick GA USA

Alex,
First if you buy a Surflo pump, save the pump you have and I will buy it from you...it is much better in my opinion.
Second, here are the things to look at:
Check Accumulator pressures with the water pump off and the system depressurized by opening a tap:
1.) Check the pressure on the accumulator above the pump...if I remember correctly, you have a spare for this one. 2.)&nbsp; Check the pressure and for leaks on the accumulator behind the water heater.
Pressure on both tanks should be about 20% less than fully pressurized system...in psi, around 15lbs less.
If no problem found above, do this:
3.)Remove the pressure switch by unscrewing it from the water system. The water pump will need to be off and the system depressurized by opening a tap. Once removed, look inside the pipe going into the switch. This area is vulnerable for debris. Clean it well and put everything back together and check.
If this does not solve your problem, do this: 4.)Adjust the pressure switch. there are 2 adjustments, one for cut on pressure and one for duration. Get on-line and look up the specs for a Square D pressure switch. you will find the adjustment procedure. This is difficult and will likely take some trial and error.
If this does not solve your problem, do this: 5)Check the impeller and backflow valve on your pump. I have an exploded view I can email you if you need it, but I think I already gave you a copy. The metal impeller can be worn, or the impeller shaft key can be missing. The backflow valve can be letting water back into the tank. I am not sure how to test this because I have never had it apart and that is one of the reasons it is last on this list.
Hope this helps,
Bill BeBe

Richard/Kent, Thanks for your reply. I assumed that you ran the w/m while pumping tank water to the pumps.I would not have thought that 40 psi would have been sufficient pressure to flow through the membranes. Thanks for setting me straight.
Thanks, Pat

Annsofie,
That is the old format with the rectangle box and magnifying glass...the new format, which they are rolling out in selective areas around the world, does not have the search feature.
You will see what I am talking about in a few days.
Bill BeBe&nbsp;

Hi all, we installed a charcoal filter as the water comes out of the tank. That prevent anything including chlorine from getting to the Watermakers. Second is the water always smells and tastes good.
Using this method you drive good water through the system. Turn on the fresh water system turn off the saltwater source open the flush valve that is or should be inline with the Water maker and let the freshwater pump flush the water maker.
Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Sep 1, 2013, at 23:39, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

You are correct. Close the seacock to the sea chest. Changing the filter shouldn't take more than a few minutes.
Kent.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 1, 2013, at 4:41 PM, <uster@...> wrote:

After reading Richard's comment (on have a charcoal/carbon filter) before the water maker, I check mine, I do have the filter, but there is no cartridge in it, I found the
cartridge with charcoal/carbon in it.
Before I do anything I would like the opinion of the forum.
As it is now, I think if I open the filter to put a new cartridge, sea water will flow into the boat. If I move the valve to "rinsage" then I think fresh water will come from the fresh water pump...
It seems to me, I have to shut down the seacock and switch off fresh water pump? (not a big deal, shutting down seacock meansls stopping air conditionning) just checking if there is a better way.
Personally I would have put a valve before the filter.
Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Alex rather then looking for a tank system why not simply install an on demand pressure pump that eliminate the tank give you constant pressure and save energy. The Surflo 4 gpm at 40 psi. Is what we've used for years.
Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Sep 1, 2013, at 22:54, <asm283@...> wrote:

Hello Alexandre Most likely the problem is the expansion tank on the water pump. The bladder inside has failed. You will need to replace it. Not too expensive, just difficult to find a correct size. Vito Former owner --- In amelyachtowners@..., <uster@...> wrote: It seems the fresh water pump (taking water from the tank) going to accumulater is going on more often and for longer period.

It used to go on for 10 to 20 second and now could be as long as 40 second or almost a minute and I don't think I use it more than previously.

Any advice? Thanks in advance,



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Annsofie,



The way to rig it is from the main center cleat on the foredeck, all the way back to the port and starboard cleats on the aft deck. If you use a flat web line and do not put tension on it, it will remain flat on deck.



All the best,



Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of kanalmamman@...
Sent: dimanche 1 septembre 2013 18:16
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Jackstay?





Hi Have any of you installed jackstays on your SM? How did you install it? We have now tried a lot of posibilities but the jackstay always ends up an inch from the deck, which means that you can strumbel over it and that is no good. To drill a hole in the deck is not an option. Any advice? Annsofie S/Y Lady Annila present at Algarve, Portugal prepairing to cross the Atlantic

Hi Bill
There is a search function, I found it yesterday. It is a big empty square with a magnifying glas, type your search word. And then you can choose to search within the group or on the web.

It looks a bit different on a PC than on an iPad.

/Annsofie


Skickat från min iPad

2 sep 2013 kl. 08:21 skrev yahoogroups@...:

The only thing that we can do about this is to go to this link and vote to return to the old format:&nbsp; http://yahoo.uservoice.com/forums/209451 I don&#39;t think there is a chance, but I voted. Sadly, Bill BeBe&nbsp; --- In amelyachtowners@..., &lt;yahoogroups@...&gt; wrote: The New Yahoo Group format has popped up for me when I go to Amel Owner&#39;s Group.&nbsp; I have all sorts of issues with this. For instance, I have a photo of the Onan exhaust fan label that I wanted to upload to the appropriate album in Photos. I could not! We can &nbsp;no longer look for, or find a particular photo album, and the only index for photos is latest first or oldest first. Nor can you find a particular photo. Also, there is no longer a search feature in Messages. Am I missing something? Bill BeBe

The New Yahoo Group format has popped up for me when I go to Amel Owner&#39;s Group.&nbsp; I have all sorts of issues with this. For instance, I have a photo of the Onan exhaust fan label that I wanted to upload to the appropriate album in Photos. I could not! We can &nbsp;no longer look for, or find a particular photo album, and the only index for photos is latest first or oldest first. Nor can you find a particular photo. Also, there is no longer a search feature in Messages. Am I missing something? Bill BeBe

&nbsp;John, To answer your question, yes as the capacitance is increased, the fan should increase in speed, but i f too large a capacitor is used, the fan will see greater than 240v, and will fry. The following are the approx capacitance limits for 240v fans that I found at this webpage: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Fan_Speed_Controller 40w fan: 2uF max 60w fan: 3uF max 80w fan: 4uF max 100w fan 5uF max 120w fan 6uF max BeBe (#387) exhaust fan is a Veco/Climma M65210 Fan is rated at 105 watts, so my assumption would be that you can safely place a 4uF capacitor there. Let me know how this works for you in terms of increasing fan speed...I think a lot of us would be interested. Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387 Currently in Turkey --- In amelyachtowners@..., &lt;annejohnholl@...&gt; wrote: Hello Bill and Judy, &nbsp;It seems that Yahoo has messed up the site&nbsp;and I cannot find my way through the new format. I am concerned that the 220 volt fan over the Onan is not running at full speed and indeed even though I have changed the capacitor for another 2mfd it often does not start running until I give it a flick with my finger. The resultant overheating in the engine room is bound to be very bad for all the electrics and I am very concerned but as we are in Italy I do not who to ask whether changing the capacitor to 4 mfd would help or not. Have you any ideas? My Email is&nbsp; annejohnholl at gmail.com. Best wishes,&nbsp; Anne and John,&nbsp; Bali Hai, SM319 --- In amelyachtowners@... , &lt;yahoogroups@...&gt; wrote: All,

Yahoo Groups may slowly fade away. Yahoo started the deconstruction of Yahoo Groups when they recently chose to discontinue RSS feeds. RSS is a format for delivering regularly changing web content. Many news-related sites, weblogs and other online publishers syndicate their content as an RSS Feed to whoever wants it. I used RSS to notify me of new postings rather than email which can clog your inbox.

It is interesting to note that the last RSS feed that I received was on Wed Jul 24, 2013 2:05 pm which was titled HELP - AMEL DRIVE. When the RSS feeds stopped many people were asking questions via Yahoo&#39;s Group Owners Blog. The answer for about 2 weeks was, &quot;we know, our engineers are working on it, we do not have an estimated date of repair.&quot; Then on August 6, Yahoo posts this: &quot;As of August 6th, 2013, the RSS functionality of Yahoo! Groups has been discontinued.&quot; http://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&;id=SLN5811&amp;locale=en_US&amp;y=PROD_GRPS

Another sign is that although Yahoo promised 4 years ago that they would increase the size of allowed FILES from 100mb to 100gb, they have not. In fact, I find it is impossible to have an email conversation with anyone at Yahoo about Yahoo Groups.

With the rapid growth of FaceBook and others, Yahoo is probably looking at Groups as a thing of the past. Unfortunately FaceBook and others do not do the things that we have become accustomed to like file exchange.

I offer all of this without offering a solution. Also, I have no idea whether Yahoo Groups will be around in 6 months or 10 years...things change, and/or I could be wrong.

I am presenting this information about Yahoo Groups because with all of its problems, it has been good for us and I have been rewarded with great information by being a part of the Amel Owners Group. I am simply hoping that someone might have a solution.

Best,

Bill
BeBe

You are correct. Close the seacock to the sea chest. Changing the filter shouldn't take more than a few minutes.
Kent.
On Sep 1, 2013, at 4:41 PM, <uster@...> wrote:

After reading Richard's comment (on have a charcoal/carbon filter) before the water maker, I check mine, I do have the filter, but there is no cartridge in it, I found the
cartridge with charcoal/carbon in it.
Before I do anything I would like the opinion of the forum.
As it is now, I think if I open the filter to put a new cartridge, sea water will flow into the boat. If I move the valve to "rinsage" then I think fresh water will come from the fresh water pump...
It seems to me, I have to shut down the seacock and switch off fresh water pump? (not a big deal, shutting down seacock means stopping air conditionning) just checking if there is a better way.
Personally I would have put a valve before the filter.
Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My understanding is that you flush with the fresh water pump. The 60 l/hr 24v watermaker is not even turned on during the flush. That's what I have been doing and the membranes are working fine after almost 6 yrs. I have even gone as long as a months without running or flushing.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
On Sep 1, 2013, at 9:29 AM, Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...> wrote:

I meant to say I have not operated the watermaker since installing two years ago. Ian's comment about not operating it in fresh water brings up a question. When you operate the w/m with fresh water from your tank, how long do you flush it and at what pressure? I have no manual and no experience with watermakers, thus the questions.
Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Mcaneny <sailw32@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2013 5:57 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] Watermaker

Ian, Thanks for your insight. I suspected that being in fresh water may have effected the pressure levels, that's why I mentioned I was in fresh water.I only ran it for a few minutes ,but the flow rate was pegged at 180 l/h, I hope I did not harm anything. I have operated it since installing it almost two years ago and have been curious if I installed it correctly.
Thanks Again,
Pat
not

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Aug 31, 2013 7:26 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] Watermaker

Hi Pat,

if the input water is not saline, then the flow rate may become
excessive damaging your membranes. I had the same experience in the Bra
D'Or Lakes in Nova Scotia and to a lesser extent near the outflow of the
Dardenelles. The advice given to me by Desssaltor was that if you must
run the water maker in conditions for which it really wasn't designed,
make sure the flow rate does dot exceed 160 l/h and accept that the high
pressure gauge is not in the green. This is normal. The pressure will
only be generated when you are trying to force salty water through the
membranes. In semi fresh water the pressure regulating knob will be
backed off quite a bit to give 160 l/h and no more.

Hope this helps.

Inn Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader Aegina Island Greece

On 30/08/2013 21:21, Patrick McAneny wrote:

I installed a 160 lt./hr. watermaker last year and today ran it for
the first time. I have never ran it or any watermaker before.My boat
is on my mooring in a river which is almost fresh. The river water
measured 425 ppm ,after running the watermaker for a few minutes the
green light came on indicating good quality and the water coming out
was 11 ppm. However the high pressure guage only went up to mid way in
the orange zone and the low pressure guage never moved at all. I had
the regulator turned fully clockwise. Has anyone have a hunch why the
gauges did not move up to the green zones ?
Thanks,
Pat SM Shenanigans

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

&nbsp;Hello Alexandre Most likely the problem is the expansion tank on the water pump. The bladder inside has failed. You will need to replace it. Not too expensive, just difficult to find a correct size. Vito&nbsp; Former owner --- In amelyachtowners@..., &lt;uster@...&gt; wrote: It seems the fresh water pump (taking water from the tank) going to accumulater is going on more often and for longer period.&nbsp;

It used to go on for 10 to 20 second and now could be as long as 40 second or almost a minute and I don&#39;t think I use it more than previously.&nbsp;

Any advice?&nbsp; Thanks in advance,

&nbsp;

Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA

After reading Richard&#39;s comment (on have a charcoal/carbon filter) before the water maker, I check mine, I do have the filter, but there is no cartridge in it, I found the
cartridge with charcoal/carbon in it.&nbsp;
Before I do anything I would like the opinion of the forum.&nbsp;
As it is now, I think if I open the filter to put a new cartridge, sea water will flow into the boat.&nbsp; If I move the valve to &quot;rinsage&quot; then I think fresh water will come from the fresh water pump...&nbsp;
It seems to me,&nbsp;I have to shut down the seacock and switch off fresh water pump?&nbsp; (not a big deal, shutting down seacock means stopping air conditionning) just checking if there is a better way.
Personally I would have put a valve before the filter.
Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA

It seems the fresh water pump (taking water from the tank) going to accumulater is going on more often and for longer period.&nbsp;
It used to go on for 10 to 20 second and now could be as long as 40 second or almost a minute and I don&#39;t think I use it more than previously.&nbsp;
Any advice?&nbsp; Thanks in advance,
&nbsp;
Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA

Hi Pat in you engine room on ehe left side facing forward there is or should be a red handled back flush valve that sends fresh water from your tank through the watermaker systems to flush it. You need to do that after each use and every 3-4 weeks if not pickled. Run it for 2 or 3 min at normal fresh water sys pressure apx 40psi. BE VERY SURE YOU HAVE A CHARCOAL FILTER IN THE LINE AS. CHORINE WILL DESTROY THE MEMBRANE.
Also ck the product water prior to sending it to the tank to be sure its good quality.

Come see us at the Newport Boat Show.

Regards SM 209 for sale in
Newport RI

Richard Piller 603 767 5330
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Full brokerage and service for all yachts

Hi Have any of you installed jackstays on your SM? How did you install it? &nbsp; We have now tried a lot of posibilities but the jackstay always ends up an inch from the deck, which means that you can strumbel over it and that is no good. &nbsp; To drill a hole in the deck is not an option.&nbsp; Any advice? &nbsp; Annsofie S/Y Lady Annila present at Algarve, Portugal prepairing to cross the Atlantic