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Re: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Just added some pictures to: http://nikimat.com/engine_room_fans.html
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John, let me know if this is ok to mention your name. Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Thu, 8/22/13, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Subject: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan. To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Thursday, August 22, 2013, 8:19 AM John, I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares. And yes, the fan is blowing better now. Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan. Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387 Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine --- In amelyachtowners@..., "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote: > > Hello Alexandre, The first company I went to could not do it, the second was a big commercial galvaniser used by manufacturers of all sizes of iron goods and so their hot dip tank must have been huge length and depthwise. If I was unable to find such a company I think that I would wait until I could or buy a new chain. I mentioned in several previous posts that we have bolted some zinc anodes on to the chain next to the anchor and this may be why the galvanising is long lasting. > I too would like to know where your photos of the engine room fans are located . I have found the fuse and also a 2 mfd capacitor beside it and wonder whether that capacitor is partly defective thus causing the fan to run slowly. Certainly my engine room gets very hot when both engines are running. I am procrastinating over replacing the capacitor as it is in a hard place to get at and am not sure that the fan is not running at it’s full speed. > > Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Licata > > > > From: Alexandre Uster von Baar > Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:50 AM > To: amelyachtowners@... > Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > > > Haven't done anything yet. > I thought I could have it sandblasted, then do a cold galvanized spay, then paint it. > I am open to suggestion! > Sincerely, Alexandre > > -------------------------------------------- > On Tue, 8/20/13, Sailorman <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote: > > Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 5:42 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > What did you do with the spade anchor? > > > > Fair Winds > > > > Eric > > > > Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite > > > > _____ > > > > From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von > > Baar > > Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 6:47 AM > > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > > Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > > > > Good morning Anne and John, > > > > One of my anchor (Spade) has a lot of rust and was told > twice it needs to be > > regalvanized, since the galvanizing company have a minimum > order/weight, I > > thought I would bring everything... The first company > couldn't do the chain, > > becausethey didn't had the basket to "centrifuge > the chain. The second > > company had the basket, but as I mentionned too small. > > > > Alexandre > > > > -------------------------------------------- > > On Tue, 8/20/13, Anne and John Hollamby <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com > > <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> > wrote: > > > > Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> > > Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 3:46 AM > > > > Hello Alex, Why did you think it needed > > regalvanising and why did they think you were wrong? > > > > We had our 80 mtr chain hot dip galvanised in Spain about > > four years ago and it is still perfect but only used for > 2/3 > > months of the year. To do it they did not have a tank 81 > > metres deep so they made a number of hooks out of strong > > wire and looped the chain so that was shorter than the > tank. > > It was very hot when it came out! > > > > Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Licata > > > > From: Alex > > > > Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:25 PM > > > > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Subject: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > > > > Thought I would share my experience. > > > > So yesterday, spend the whole day removing my 2 anchors and > > 2 chains, bringing my ski boat under, etc. > > > > The longest one at 90 meter (300 ft) which weight 200 kg / > > 450 LBS. So was prety physical... > > > > Early this morning arrived at K T Galvanizing (in Katy, > near > > Houston, so about 1.5 hours from the Marina) and they told > > me my chain was too long for their equipment!!! > > > > But good news, they said I don't need to regalvanized > > the chain. > > > > They said easily 10 more years. > > > > Alexandre > > > > SM2K #289 NIKIMAT > > > > Seabrook, Texas, USA > > > > > > > > _____ > > > > I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len> > > . > > SPAMfighter has removed 1887 of my spam emails to date. > > > > Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen> > > Try a free scan! > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
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Re: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Mine was out of range as well.
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Just changed it, but will start the genset next week. I am prety sure it will be the same result as Bill! --------------------------------------------
On Thu, 8/22/13, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Subject: [Amel] Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan. To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Thursday, August 22, 2013, 8:19 AM John, I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares. And yes, the fan is blowing better now. Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan. Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387 Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine --- In amelyachtowners@..., "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote: > > Hello Alexandre, The first company I went to could not do it, the second was a big commercial galvaniser used by manufacturers of all sizes of iron goods and so their hot dip tank must have been huge length and depthwise. If I was unable to find such a company I think that I would wait until I could or buy a new chain. I mentioned in several previous posts that we have bolted some zinc anodes on to the chain next to the anchor and this may be why the galvanising is long lasting. > I too would like to know where your photos of the engine room fans are located . I have found the fuse and also a 2 mfd capacitor beside it and wonder whether that capacitor is partly defective thus causing the fan to run slowly. Certainly my engine room gets very hot when both engines are running. I am procrastinating over replacing the capacitor as it is in a hard place to get at and am not sure that the fan is not running at it’s full speed. > > Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Licata > > > > From: Alexandre Uster von Baar > Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:50 AM > To: amelyachtowners@... > Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > > > Haven't done anything yet. > I thought I could have it sandblasted, then do a cold galvanized spay, then paint it. > I am open to suggestion! > Sincerely, Alexandre > > -------------------------------------------- > On Tue, 8/20/13, Sailorman <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote: > > Subject: RE: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 5:42 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > What did you do with the spade anchor? > > > > Fair Winds > > > > Eric > > > > Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite > > > > _____ > > > > From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von > > Baar > > Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 6:47 AM > > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > > Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > > > > Good morning Anne and John, > > > > One of my anchor (Spade) has a lot of rust and was told > twice it needs to be > > regalvanized, since the galvanizing company have a minimum > order/weight, I > > thought I would bring everything... The first company > couldn't do the chain, > > becausethey didn't had the basket to "centrifuge > the chain. The second > > company had the basket, but as I mentionned too small. > > > > Alexandre > > > > -------------------------------------------- > > On Tue, 8/20/13, Anne and John Hollamby <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com > > <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> > wrote: > > > > Subject: Re: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> > > Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2013, 3:46 AM > > > > Hello Alex, Why did you think it needed > > regalvanising and why did they think you were wrong? > > > > We had our 80 mtr chain hot dip galvanised in Spain about > > four years ago and it is still perfect but only used for > 2/3 > > months of the year. To do it they did not have a tank 81 > > metres deep so they made a number of hooks out of strong > > wire and looped the chain so that was shorter than the > tank. > > It was very hot when it came out! > > > > Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Licata > > > > From: Alex > > > > Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 10:25 PM > > > > To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Subject: [Amel] Chain too long to be regalvanized... > > > > Thought I would share my experience. > > > > So yesterday, spend the whole day removing my 2 anchors and > > 2 chains, bringing my ski boat under, etc. > > > > The longest one at 90 meter (300 ft) which weight 200 kg / > > 450 LBS. So was prety physical... > > > > Early this morning arrived at K T Galvanizing (in Katy, > near > > Houston, so about 1.5 hours from the Marina) and they told > > me my chain was too long for their equipment!!! > > > > But good news, they said I don't need to regalvanized > > the chain. > > > > They said easily 10 more years. > > > > Alexandre > > > > SM2K #289 NIKIMAT > > > > Seabrook, Texas, USA > > > > > > > > _____ > > > > I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len> > > . > > SPAMfighter has removed 1887 of my spam emails to date. > > > > Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen> > > Try a free scan! > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > |
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Re: [Amel] Re: Glue for vinyl headlining
I have with great success used a glue named Eurocol 322
It is a kind of a water-based rubber glue that is very easy to apply. You need only to apply on one side, wait for 10-20 minutes and then press together. I have re-glued most of my Santorin by now and nothing has fallen off yet. The glue is holding as should and I can highly recommend this product. Best regards Lars Salvagny, Santorin #79 Currently lying in Copenhagen, Denmark Fra: Fisher, Thomas W. Sendt: mandag, 12. august 2013 14:19 Til: 'amelyachtowners@...' Hi Phil, I have run into the same problem! Very frustrating indeed!!! Could you please be more specific as to which sikaflex product you used. There are a great number of them so the exact brand number you used successfully would be a great help. Thanks!! Tom Fisher "Sheila" Sharki #142 Kingston, Ontario, Canada Tom Fisher RRT Research Coordinator Asthma Research Unit, Queen's University 102 Stuart St. Kingston,ON., K7L 2V6 613-549-6666 ext 2798 P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail ________________________________ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of phil.berghmans Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 03:26 To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Re: Glue for vinyl headlining Hello, We have redone our headlining four years ago on my santorin 94.Took off the old vinyl cleaned it properly with brush and vacume cleaner.Started with a 3m spray kind of glue they use for carpets and stuff.Was very expensive and fell off after one month in the heat of the med ans canaries.Redone the whole thing with a cheap polyurethane sikaflex . One applieing with the gun the other spreading the stuff pieces of half a meter no more .Then reglueing the vinyl and hold/support for couple off minutes and done! You get more handy in it ass you go along.Now after three years in the tropics (cabo verde,carib) everything is still ok .Cheap and good solution.Iff you want more info .Send me a message. Kind regards phil miles ahead --- In amelyachtowners@...<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "ullaroo" <roo@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel] Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53
Hi, Bill,
I don't see any lines for davits. Is your arch a dinghy davit as well? If it's not, why didn't you add that capability? I would like to have davits for most island hopping and anchoring out, but would tie the dink down on the deck for passages. I was thinking I'd like an arch similar to yours that could be used for both solar panels and davits. The extra weight aft would certainly make her even more stern-low in the water. Thanks, Kent SM 243 Kristy Brunswick, GA USA ________________________________ From: Peter Forbes <ppsforbes@...> To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 1:13 PM Subject: Re: [Amel] Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53 Bill, Your arch looks terrific - good investment I think. I hope you will still be there on 5th Sept when I'm back in Goçek. Peter Peter Forbes 07836 209730 ppsforbes@... On 22 Aug 2013, at 14:40, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote: I just posted photos of the Emek Marine solar arch installation which is about 90% complete. 3 X 140 Kyocera panels.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: [Amel] Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53
Bill,
Your arch looks terrific - good investment I think. I hope you will still be there on 5th Sept when I'm back in Goçek. Peter Peter Forbes 07836 209730 ppsforbes@... On 22 Aug 2013, at 14:40, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote: I just posted photos of the Emek Marine solar arch installation which is about 90% complete. 3 X 140 Kyocera panels. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: [Amel] Re: prop rebuild,..
Gary,
As I recall I used a cobalt drill bit for the hole in the race. Titanium might also work. Photos are posted in the album "Aletes SM#240" which may help clarify the process. I was not concerned about sea water, as it seems everything in the AutoProp is exposed. Maybe I am missing something? Mike Aletes SM#240 From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 9:02 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Re: prop rebuild,.. Hi Mike: I actually tried to drill into the races but couldn't penetrate the hardened steel at all. My original plan was to tap some screws into the race and use a slide hammer to pull the races out of their recess. How were you able to drill those races? As I try to visualize your process, didn't this then leave a hole through the base of the race recess open to sea water on the outside of the prop hub? Perhaps I am not picturing this correctly. Help me to better understand. Gary Amel SM # 335 s/v Liahona --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote: tap 3/16" threads through the race and hub, insert short 3/16" bolts fromeither end until they touched at the interface, then tightened the inner bolt toto push out the race. |
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Re: Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.
Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
Sorry, the link did not work on the 220V Fan photo, but I tested this one and it works: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
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Bill BeBe
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
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Re: Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53
Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
The link for the photos did not work...this will: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/list
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Bill BeBe
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
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Solar panels for Amel Super Maramu 53
Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
I just posted photos of the Emek Marine solar arch installation which is about 90% complete. 3 X 140 Kyocera panels.
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1515064489/pic/102870028/view?picmode=&;amp;mode=tn&amp;order=ordinal&amp;start=1&amp;count=20&amp;dir=asc Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387 Gocek, Turkey
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good morning Gary, thanks for the article and links.
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Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment... To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:21 PM Hi Alexander: Here is a good article that shows the principles involved. http://proboat.com/attention-to-detail/170-the-vacuum-gauge-tool.html West Marine has the gauges (although $99 seems steep to me). http://catalogs.westmarine.com/WebProject.asp?CodeId=7.7.1.25&BookCode=wmm13&pagelabel=597# You might try Grainger.com All the Racor filter housings I have seen have a port for the gauge. 1/8th inch pipe thread as I recall, but double check to make sure. Gary --- In amelyachtowners@..., Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote: > > Good morning Gary, > > If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is so dirty... > Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think I should make an effort and dive far in the bay. > > The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know about the last time the bearing or blade seals were changed. > > I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip, may be I should do it before. > > I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single) Racor fuel filter. I don't think, but don't know if I have restriction. > I will check the valve. > I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation? Manufacturer? I am not familiar with that... Are they permanently mount? > > Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I could brag about 2800 rpm!!! > > I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned! > > Thanks again for your email, let me know about these suction gauge... > Sincerely, Alexandre > > > -------------------------------------------- > On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote: > > Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment... > To: amelyachtowners@... > Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Â > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Alexander: > > > > A couple of thoughts: > > > > Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and > tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol > clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty > water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I > subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything > but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the > prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to > clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour. > Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent to > get it completely smooth, including the hub area. > > > > While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are > good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly > rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there > is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate > around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but > can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for > is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They > should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly > move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop > was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were changed, > and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A > prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations > while powering. > > > > I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled > as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip > seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube > your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you > should consider disassembling the prop for bearing > inspection. > > > > Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel > filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction > such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the > fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open. > Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if > the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap > and easy things to check. > > > > Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely. > There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from > AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators > on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy. > > > > > Sincerely, > > > > Gary Silver > > > > This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money and > > > > > --- In amelyachtowners@..., > "Alex" <uster@> wrote: > > > > > > Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and > turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air > bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html > > > > > > Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good. > > > > > > At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher). > > > > > > Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very > desapointed. > > > I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea? > > > Could that be the prop not unfolding totally? > > > > > > > > > Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre > > > SM2K #289 NIKIMAT > > > Seabrook, Texas, USA > > > > |
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Engine room fans 220V Fan above Onan.
Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
John,
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I want to thank you for pointing out the 2 mfd capacitor on the 220V exhaust fan. I had a feeling this exhaust fan was turning slower, so I check the cap and yes it was out of spec. I replaced it with the exact capacitor which is used on the Climma Fan Motor. I had some spares. And yes, the fan is blowing better now. Photo at Photo Albums > Onan MDKVA - OR, link to it here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1489622282/pic/793800192/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc Hope this helps anyone with a slowing exhaust fan. Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387 Turkey, having the solar arch installed by Emek Marine
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:
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[Amel] Re: prop rebuild,..
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi Mike:
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I actually tried to drill into the races but couldn't penetrate the hardened steel at all. My original plan was to tap some screws into the race and use a slide hammer to pull the races out of their recess. How were you able to drill those races? As I try to visualize your process, didn't this then leave a hole through the base of the race recess open to sea water on the outside of the prop hub? Perhaps I am not picturing this correctly. Help me to better understand. Gary Amel SM # 335 s/v Liahona
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers
Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
The numbers are one ach blade.
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If you deal with ab marine in the UA they are wonderful. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite Here was his note for the rebuild kit. Dear Sir, I see that you have the pricing for all of the parts. Yours would be the H6 TS system which shows a total of US$840.78. I will give you a 10% discount and so it will be $756.70. The 3 tool are ... Retaining Cap spanner @ $77.50 ... Tab Screw Spanner @ $97.00 ... Nut Spanner @ $188.50 = $363.00 If you like i can sell them to you and then "buy then back" when you are back in the USA minus a "usage fee", say 10%. or you can keep them. Everything is available to ship today or tomorrow. Just need the ship to address and CC details. Regards, Steve Armitage AB Marine, Inc 747 Aquidneck Ave Middletown, RI 02842 sales@... 401-847-7960 _____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von Baar Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 8:57 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers Hello Eric, I ask the diver to let me know the number, he couldn't find it. BUT, that now you tell me what to look for, so I see on the previous owner's note and finf my number is: AP3281 (Left Hand turn) - AND it has been recall and rebuilt in December 2002!!! Thanks so much for this little piece of information that answer a large question!!! Now I can order the rebuilt kits from the place Bill mentionned and so on!!! Also from "islandbwoy4434" (Dena and ?) it definitely confirms Kent's (SM #243) information. Thank you so much every one on the forum! Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, Sailorman <kimberlite@...
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> > wrote: Subject: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:55 PM Alexandre, I also have a h6 prop it is number 5164. If your prop is between number ap2902 and ap5299, it should have been recalled and rebuilt for free by autoprop. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von Baar Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 4:15 PM To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] prop rebuild,.. Hello Eric, I tested all the Air conditionning Capacitor (and changed some) a few months ago, so am familiar with this process. I just check the bill from Amel (last November), they greased the prop. I am sure if they had seen it needed new bearing they would have mentionned something... Which prop do you have? I have the Auto Prop H6. Sincerely, Alexandre -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 8/21/13, Sailorman <kimberlite@... <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> > wrote: Subject: [Amel] prop rebuild,.. To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 2:42 PM The prop rebuild is a time consuming project and is best done on a workbench with a vise. I bought the parts from AB marine for about $900- they rented me the tools (cost $350- for 50 dollars-upon return of the tools) I think it will take one person a day plus to do it. The hardest part is to remove the ball bearing race as it is held in by grease and the tolerances are very tight. It takes a lot of time and solvent to remove them. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von Baar Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:44 AM To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment... Good morning Gary, If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is so dirty... Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think I should make an effort and dive far in the bay. The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know about the last time the bearing or blade seals were changed. I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip, may be I should do it before. I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single) Racor fuel filter. I don't think, but don't know if I have restriction. I will check the valve. I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation? Manufacturer? I am not familiar with that... Are they permanently mount? Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I could brag about 2800 rpm!!! I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned! Thanks again for your email, let me know about these suction gauge... Sincerely, Alexandre -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@... <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> > wrote: Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment... To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM Alexander: A couple of thoughts: Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour. Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent to get it completely smooth, including the hub area. While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were changed, and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations while powering. I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you should consider disassembling the prop for bearing inspection. Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open. Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap and easy things to check. Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely. There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy. Sincerely, Gary Silver This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money and --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Alex" <uster@...> wrote: Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good. At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher). Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very desapointed. I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea? Could that be the prop not unfolding totally? Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Seabrook, Texas, USA _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len> . SPAMfighter has removed 1893 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen> Try a free scan! |
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Re: [Amel] Re: prop rebuild,..
The approach that worked well for me to remove the race was to drill and tap
3/16" threads through the race and hub, insert short 3/16" bolts from either end until they touched at the interface, then tightened the inner bolt to push out the race. Next time no need to drill, just insert the inner bolt to push out the race. Mike SM#242 Aletes From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 4:29 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Re: prop rebuild,.. I concur that the rebuild of all three blades is at least a full day project. The spare parts from the manufacturer are indeed very pricy. I found the key to getting the races out was to use a Dremmel tool cut off wheel (about 3/4 inch diameter) to grind a recess in the hardened steel race being careful not to slip and grind into the race recess etc. The recess (there is a photo I posted on servicing the AutoProp) should be deep enough to accept a punch or chisel. Then use a punch at and angle to start the race rotating in its recess. Add your best penetrating oil (I use Mouse Milk), and in about 30 minutes I was able to extract the race each. The first one I did, without the rotation trick took me about 6 hours with penetrating oil, fine emmory cloth etc. The rotation trick was a big improvement. Gary --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailorman <kimberlite@...> wrote: workbench with a vise.solvent to remove them.<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@...<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von Baar<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...do it before.I don't think, but don't know if I have restriction.about 2800 rpm!!!<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> > wrote:<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ,<http://www.spamfighter.com/len> .<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen> Try a free scan! |
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Re: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Hello Eric,
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I ask the diver to let me know the number, he couldn't find it. BUT, that now you tell me what to look for, so I see on the previous owner's note and finf my number is: AP3281 (Left Hand turn) - AND it has been recall and rebuilt in December 2002!!! Thanks so much for this little piece of information that answer a large question!!! Now I can order the rebuilt kits from the place Bill mentionned and so on!!! Also from "islandbwoy4434" (Dena and ?) it definitely confirms Kent's (SM #243) information. Thank you so much every one on the forum! Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, Sailorman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Subject: [Amel] Autoprop recall --prop numbers To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:55 PM Alexandre, I also have a h6 prop it is number 5164. If your prop is between number ap2902 and ap5299, it should have been recalled and rebuilt for free by autoprop. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von Baar Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 4:15 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel] prop rebuild,.. Hello Eric, I tested all the Air conditionning Capacitor (and changed some) a few months ago, so am familiar with this process. I just check the bill from Amel (last November), they greased the prop. I am sure if they had seen it needed new bearing they would have mentionned something... Which prop do you have? I have the Auto Prop H6. Sincerely, Alexandre -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 8/21/13, Sailorman <kimberlite@... <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> > wrote: Subject: [Amel] prop rebuild,.. To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 2:42 PM The prop rebuild is a time consuming project and is best done on a workbench with a vise. I bought the parts from AB marine for about $900- they rented me the tools (cost $350- for 50 dollars-upon return of the tools) I think it will take one person a day plus to do it. The hardest part is to remove the ball bearing race as it is held in by grease and the tolerances are very tight. It takes a lot of time and solvent to remove them. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Alexandre Uster von Baar Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:44 AM To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment... Good morning Gary, If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is so dirty... Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think I should make an effort and dive far in the bay. The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know about the last time the bearing or blade seals were changed. I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip, may be I should do it before. I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single) Racor fuel filter. I don't think, but don't know if I have restriction. I will check the valve. I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation? Manufacturer? I am not familiar with that... Are they permanently mount? Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I could brag about 2800 rpm!!! I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned! Thanks again for your email, let me know about these suction gauge... Sincerely, Alexandre -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@... <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> > wrote: Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment... To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM Alexander: A couple of thoughts: Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour. Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent to get it completely smooth, including the hub area. While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were changed, and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations while powering. I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you should consider disassembling the prop for bearing inspection. Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open. Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap and easy things to check. Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely. There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy. Sincerely, Gary Silver This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money and --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Alex" <uster@...> wrote: > > Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html > > Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good. > > At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher). > > Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very desapointed. > I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea? > Could that be the prop not unfolding totally? > > > Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre > SM2K #289 NIKIMAT > Seabrook, Texas, USA > _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len> . SPAMfighter has removed 1893 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen> Try a free scan! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Is there any way, you would share the info on the H6 auto prop?
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Pitch, diameter, etc. Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, islandbwoy4434 <terencesingh@...> wrote:
Subject: [Amel] Re: Volvo Penta TMD22 Low RPM To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 4:25 PM Success! To close this thread out. Greg Prior and David Sheppard (AB Marine and Bruntons respectively) re-worked our A6 prop based upon the extensive imperial data we provided. The prop was installed last week and Libby was off on a 5 day excursion to Catalina Island. Here is my email to Geoff Prior. 'Good morning Geoff, I wanted to close the loop with you on the prop work. The prop was installed last week by Rick our local diver. I took Libby on a 5 day excursion to Catalina Island which turned out to be a 179 mile round trip with no wind! (motoring there and back) I am pleased to report that I was easily able to exceed 2000 RPM at cruising speed. Noted speeds were 7.6 knots at 2500 RPM and WOT 3100 RPM at 9+ knots. I know this took a little work on everyones part, and I would like to thank both you for your excellent support and help. Terry " --- In amelyachtowners@..., "islandbwoy4434" <terencesingh@...> wrote: > > Just installed a reconditioned Turbo charger on Libby's (#196) TMD22. The Turbo was indeed seized solid as was the waste gate actuator. > Prior to installing the re-conditioned unit we noted that the highest RPM we could achieve was 2000. This gave us a boat speed of aprox 6-7 knots depending on conditions. We have the factory feathering Auto prop installed. > Having read the associated threads on this forum I fully expected post installation of the refurbished unit to achieve upwards of 2800 RPM and an increase in top end boat speed. > Alas, not the case. > From a standing start the engine will rev up to 2300 RPM until the feathering prop builds it maximum thrust and the RPM's drop down the 2000 RPM and 6-7 knots of speed. > > I would like to know if I am missing something here with respect to my expectations. > Can anyone offer up some wisdom? > > Terry&Dena > SV Libby #196 > San Diego > |
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Re: [Amel] Re: Volvo TMD22 max rpm
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Thanks Dena and ? Islandboy for the info!
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More and more it seems the new prop wil lbe required... Just out of curiosity, how much was the total work on the H6 Auto Prop? Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, islandbwoy4434 <terencesingh@...> wrote:
Subject: [Amel] Re: Volvo TMD22 max rpm To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 4:35 PM My two cents worth after exhaustive analysis of low max RPM's. Dena and I have owned Libby #196 for 18 months. We were never able to get more that 2000 RPM's @ 6.5 knots out of the TMD22 with an H6 AutoProp. Replaced the Turbo, checked engine and transmission RPM with optical Tach at 100RPM intervals both stationary at the dock and sea trial. Cleaned exhaust elbow, checked fuel system, and a host of other suggestions as noted in my thread. Consulted with AB Marine and Bruntons and provided tons of empirical data. David Sheppard provided Geoff Prior of AB Marine a new profile for the Prop. Prop also received a full service including new bearings. Prop was re-fitted last week. New results. Max RPM's 3000 @ 9 Knots+ 2500 RPM's @ 7.5knots Very happy that I can now run the TMD22 at a point where the Turbo is actually working. Not sure why the H6 was pitched that way it was and supplied to Amel. --- In amelyachtowners@..., "Graham" <crwggb@...> wrote: > > Straight forward question: > > If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your Super Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the max prop fitted? The more responses the better! > > Graham > SM 140 Sula > Hong Kong > |
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Vacuum gauge for Racor filter
Hi All,
We have a Racor 500 filter with a small, oil filled vacuum gauge. I have found it difficult to read because of its location. I installed a "Fuel Fixers R2D2" Tee handle gauge. Now I can glance into the engine room and easily see if there is any filter restriction. Even if I do not look until the next day with the engine not running and cool, the R2D2 acts like a tell-tale and displays its highest relative vacuum reading untill manually reset. I say relative vacuum because it basically reads green, yellow or red. Fine for our needs. I have no financial interest in this company...just a positive experience. Fair Winds, Mark and Joanna Hanna Sharki # 49 S/V MARGUERITE |
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water pump pressure switch adjustment
Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
I came across this and thought it might be interesting
http://inspectapedia.com/water/WaterPumpAdjust.htm#H1 _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len> . SPAMfighter has removed 1896 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen> Try a free scan! |
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Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem
Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
Ian,
Did you ever try applying 12 volts directly to the stop solenoid. I enquired with my yanmar dealer and he said he stocks them as they are frequently intermittent. Fair Winds Eric _____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 9:00 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem Yes but the ground relay also operates when the stop button is pushed, unless I am mistaken? I have never had a starting problem though. I sent you the circuit diagram a few minutes ago. Ian SM 414 Crusader Skiathos On 14/08/2013 18:23, kimberlite@... <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> wrote: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>OK thanks Eric.I have changed the main solenoid with the rubber <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of IanShepherd> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AMTo: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>resistor, was <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf OfColin.d.streeterSent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>take you up <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed][Non-text portions of this message have been removed]100 HP engine. |
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