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Re: [Amel] RE: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Alan,
I bought the 24V timer and a 24V solenoid water valve on eBay. Both were shipped from China to Turkey at no additional cost...most of the China eBay sellers ship worldwide via China Post at no additional cost to the buyer (included in the sale price). If the invoice cost is low, the item will fly through Customs in the US and Turkey...do not know about other places. The timer looks exactly like the one in the link posted by Derick.
Bill BeBe
On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 5:30 AM, <divanz620@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill....that's great, where did you get the 24V solenoid valve needed to go inline ??? Cheers Alan SV Elyse SM437 in Opua, New Zealand ---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote:
On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 6:20 PM, <derickgates@...> wrote:
Gary,
Thanks for the great explanation of a simple timed fresh water flush system for the Dessalator membranes. In sending for the timer using your link, I note that it refers to a 24 Volt AC timer. Can I safely assume that you meant to refer to a 24 Volt DC timer? Here is the corresponding 24 Volt DC link that I found:
http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-30/DT-dsh-06-fdsh--24-VOLT-DC/Detail
Same price, same functionality, I believe.
Derick Gates
Amel SM #400
s/v Brava
Currently on the hard at Bailey's Boatyard in Antigua
As of January 4th, 2013, Sapphire Beach Marina, St. Thomas USVI
---In amelyachtowners@..., < no_reply@...> wrote:
H Jonas: Regarding the timer flush system that I hooked up: I purchased one of these http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-96/DT-dsh-05-fdsh--24-Volt-AC/Detail
I hope that link will post. If not, just google "24 volt fish feeder timer" or something like that and you will come across some 24 volt 7 day timers. The one mentioned above was about $35.00 US. This one was rated at 16 amps and had an internal battery backup. Since I wasn't exactly sure of the current draw of the fresh water pump on my boat I hooked the output of the timer to a 28 volt relay that was rated at a much higher amperage. I don't have the specification of the relay, but it was about $15.00 US at the local chandlery and its contacts were rated at 50 amps or something li
ke that. So the timer controls the relay, that regulates power to the fresh water pump. At any rate, in the area behind the 24 volt breaker panel is a terminal block with a cover for 24 volt power. I wired the timer to this source, I then cut the wire from the breaker for the fresh water pump and wired it through the contacts of the relay. The control coil of the relay is controlled by 24 volt power from the control contacts of the timer (ganged relays). (I will try and post a schematic of this wiring in the Dessalator photos folder). The timer has a switch for "On" or "Timer" mode. When aboard the boat, we place that switch in the ON position and the fresh water pump operates as normal with the pressure switch on the pump functioning as usual. When we leave the boat, we make sure the water tank is full, switch the flush valve on the water maker low pressure pump to the flush position, and set the timer to the TIMER mode. We program the timer to flush for
5 minutes every other or every third day. 5 minutes of flush every third day will use about 500 to 700 liters of fresh water in 6 months. Your results may vary and you should actually time and measure how much flush water will pass through your system by collecting and measuring how much water comes out the thru hull fitting on the port side of the hull. At the programmed time, the timer contacts close sending 24 volts to the relay coil. This causes the relay coil to actuate and the relay contacts close, sending 24 volt power to the fresh water pump, The pump actuates for 5 minutes, sending fresh water thru the water maker system (flushes the low pressure pump, the series of filters, the high pressure pump, the membranes and the plumbing of the control panel). It has worked for 5 years without fail. I have a small portable solar panel that I leave out when off the boat to trickle charge the batteries and this has always kept up with the energy needs of the brief run cycles
of the pump. My only concern was having to leave the main 24 volt power switches on the battery bank in the on position when I leave the boat. I do make sure that every other breaker on the boat is turned off, including (1) the breakers in the engine room, (2) forward cabin, (3) beneath the nav station, (4) in the hanging locker by the nav station, and (5) above the overhead of the quarter berth, (6) all the 24 volt panel breakers except the bilge pump and fresh water pump. A potential failure mode would be if the timer or ganged-relay failed in the "on" position. In that case the pump would actuate until the water tanks were empty and them might continue to run until pump failure or battery depletion. I have toyed with installing some sort of "run-on" sensor that would time out the system and turn it off if the pump ran too long. I just haven't gotten around to that yet.
To flush with the water maker on or off is an interesting discus
sion. I have always flushed with the water maker off except when I am flushing the entire sea-chest/manifold system when leaving the boat. In that case I put the hose from shore water source in to the sea-chest and turn the water maker on. I have yet to find a source of water strong enough to keep up with the water maker's need for water. I have to cycle the water maker on and off to prevent it from sucking air from the sea chest. I can see why flushing with the system running would give more through-put of flush water and thus do a more thorough flush, but having the high pressure pump cavitate with air is supposedly damaging to that pump. Perhaps you can keep up with the feed water needs of the lower capacity water maker using shore water to flush but I cannot.
Nice chatting with you Jonas. I will post an alert when I post the schematic of the timer modification in the photo's section. Sincerely, Gary Silver Amel SM #335 s/v Liahona Sint Maartin Dutch West Indies
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ann-Sofie Svanberg wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
> thank you for a fact oriented and short answer. I totally share your opinion regarding how to deal with the WM and was not aware of the Sodium meta-bisulfite. Have not used it and will probably not do it either. I am really interested in your automatic rinsing solution, could you please send some additional info regarding this, it will be most appreciated.
> I think I have solved the major question regarding the rinsing, in the Amel manual for this boat it says that the Dessalator unit should be tunred off but in the official info from Dessalator it says that it should be on but without pressure(the D50 has no automatic rinsing function). Doing the rinsing with the unit on gave a much better quality of the produced water than having it off. We
now produce water with approx. 250 PTS level(using a Com 100) which I think is ok.
>
> Once again, thank you for a fast and very good answer!
>
> All the best from a cloudy but warm island of Brac, Croatia
>
> Jonas (Svanberg)
> S/Y Lady Annila
> SM # 232
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
|
|
|
Re: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h
Alan Leslie
Thanks Bill....that's great, where did you get the 24V solenoid valve needed to go inline ??? Cheers Alan SV Elyse SM437 in Opua, New Zealand ---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 6:20 PM, <derickgates@...> wrote:
Gary,
Thanks for the great explanation of a simple timed fresh water flush system for the Dessalator membranes. In sending for the timer using your link, I note that it refers to a 24 Volt AC timer. Can I safely assume that you meant to refer to a 24 Volt DC timer? Here is the corresponding 24 Volt DC link that I found:
http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-30/DT-dsh-06-fdsh--24-VOLT-DC/Detail
Same price, same functionality, I believe.
Derick Gates
Amel SM #400
s/v Brava
Currently on the hard at Bailey's Boatyard in Antigua
As of January 4th, 2013, Sapphire Beach Marina, St. Thomas USVI
---In amelyachtowners@..., < no_reply@...> wrote:
H Jonas: Regarding the timer flush system that I hooked up: I purchased one of these http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-96/DT-dsh-05-fdsh--24-Volt-AC/Detail
I hope that link will post. If not, just google "24 volt fish feeder timer" or something like that and you will come across some 24 volt 7 day timers. The one mentioned above was about $35.00 US. This one was rated at 16 amps and had an internal battery backup. Since I wasn't exactly sure of the current draw of the fresh water pump on my boat I hooked the output of the timer to a 28 volt relay that was rated at a much higher amperage. I don't have the specification of the relay, but it was about $15.00 US at the local chandlery and its contacts were rated at 50 amps or something li
ke that. So the timer controls the relay, that regulates power to the fresh water pump. At any rate, in the area behind the 24 volt breaker panel is a terminal block with a cover for 24 volt power. I wired the timer to this source, I then cut the wire from the breaker for the fresh water pump and wired it through the contacts of the relay. The control coil of the relay is controlled by 24 volt power from the control contacts of the timer (ganged relays). (I will try and post a schematic of this wiring in the Dessalator photos folder). The timer has a switch for "On" or "Timer" mode. When aboard the boat, we place that switch in the ON position and the fresh water pump operates as normal with the pressure switch on the pump functioning as usual. When we leave the boat, we make sure the water tank is full, switch the flush valve on the water maker low pressure pump to the flush position, and set the timer to the TIMER mode. We program the timer to flush for
5 minutes every other or every third day. 5 minutes of flush every third day will use about 500 to 700 liters of fresh water in 6 months. Your results may vary and you should actually time and measure how much flush water will pass through your system by collecting and measuring how much water comes out the thru hull fitting on the port side of the hull. At the programmed time, the timer contacts close sending 24 volts to the relay coil. This causes the relay coil to actuate and the relay contacts close, sending 24 volt power to the fresh water pump, The pump actuates for 5 minutes, sending fresh water thru the water maker system (flushes the low pressure pump, the series of filters, the high pressure pump, the membranes and the plumbing of the control panel). It has worked for 5 years without fail. I have a small portable solar panel that I leave out when off the boat to trickle charge the batteries and this has always kept up with the energy needs of the brief run cycles
of the pump. My only concern was having to leave the main 24 volt power switches on the battery bank in the on position when I leave the boat. I do make sure that every other breaker on the boat is turned off, including (1) the breakers in the engine room, (2) forward cabin, (3) beneath the nav station, (4) in the hanging locker by the nav station, and (5) above the overhead of the quarter berth, (6) all the 24 volt panel breakers except the bilge pump and fresh water pump. A potential failure mode would be if the timer or ganged-relay failed in the "on" position. In that case the pump would actuate until the water tanks were empty and them might continue to run until pump failure or battery depletion. I have toyed with installing some sort of "run-on" sensor that would time out the system and turn it off if the pump ran too long. I just haven't gotten around to that yet.
To flush with the water maker on or off is an interesting discus
sion. I have always flushed with the water maker off except when I am flushing the entire sea-chest/manifold system when leaving the boat. In that case I put the hose from shore water source in to the sea-chest and turn the water maker on. I have yet to find a source of water strong enough to keep up with the water maker's need for water. I have to cycle the water maker on and off to prevent it from sucking air from the sea chest. I can see why flushing with the system running would give more through-put of flush water and thus do a more thorough flush, but having the high pressure pump cavitate with air is supposedly damaging to that pump. Perhaps you can keep up with the feed water needs of the lower capacity water maker using shore water to flush but I cannot.
Nice chatting with you Jonas. I will post an alert when I post the schematic of the timer modification in the photo's section. Sincerely, Gary Silver Amel SM #335 s/v Liahona Sint Maartin Dutch West Indies
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
> thank you for a fact oriented and short answer. I totally share your opinion regarding how to deal with the WM and was not aware of the Sodium meta-bisulfite. Have not used it and will probably not do it either. I am really interested in your automatic rinsing solution, could you please send some additional info regarding this, it will be most appreciated.
> I think I have solved the major question regarding the rinsing, in the Amel manual for this boat it says that the Dessalator unit should be tunred off but in the official info from Dessalator it says that it should be on but without pressure(the D50 has no automatic rinsing function). Doing the rinsing with the unit on gave a much better quality of the produced water than having it off. We
now produce water with approx. 250 PTS level(using a Com 100) which I think is ok.
>
> Once again, thank you for a fast and very good answer!
>
> All the best from a cloudy but warm island of Brac, Croatia
>
> Jonas (Svanberg)
> S/Y Lady Annila
> SM # 232
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
|
|
|
Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 6:20 PM, <derickgates@...> wrote:
Gary,
Thanks for the great explanation of a simple timed fresh water flush system for the Dessalator membranes. In sending for the timer using your link, I note that it refers to a 24 Volt AC timer. Can I safely assume that you meant to refer to a 24 Volt DC timer? Here is the corresponding 24 Volt DC link that I found:
http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-30/DT-dsh-06-fdsh--24-VOLT-DC/Detail
Same price, same functionality, I believe.
Derick Gates
Amel SM #400
s/v Brava
Currently on the hard at Bailey's Boatyard in Antigua
As of January 4th, 2013, Sapphire Beach Marina, St. Thomas USVI
---In amelyachtowners@..., < no_reply@...> wrote:
H Jonas: Regarding the timer flush system that I hooked up: I purchased one of these http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-96/DT-dsh-05-fdsh--24-Volt-AC/Detail
I hope that link will post. If not, just google "24 volt fish feeder timer" or something like that and you will come across some 24 volt 7 day timers. The one mentioned above was about $35.00 US. This one was rated at 16 amps and had an internal battery backup. Since I wasn't exactly sure of the current draw of the fresh water pump on my boat I hooked the output of the timer to a 28 volt relay that was rated at a much higher amperage. I don't have the specification of the relay, but it was about $15.00 US at the local chandlery and its contacts were rated at 50 amps or something li
ke that. So the timer controls the relay, that regulates power to the fresh water pump. At any rate, in the area behind the 24 volt breaker panel is a terminal block with a cover for 24 volt power. I wired the timer to this source, I then cut the wire from the breaker for the fresh water pump and wired it through the contacts of the relay. The control coil of the relay is controlled by 24 volt power from the control contacts of the timer (ganged relays). (I will try and post a schematic of this wiring in the Dessalator photos folder). The timer has a switch for "On" or "Timer" mode. When aboard the boat, we place that switch in the ON position and the fresh water pump operates as normal with the pressure switch on the pump functioning as usual. When we leave the boat, we make sure the water tank is full, switch the flush valve on the water maker low pressure pump to the flush position, and set the timer to the TIMER mode. We program the timer to flush for
5 minutes every other or every third day. 5 minutes of flush every third day will use about 500 to 700 liters of fresh water in 6 months. Your results may vary and you should actually time and measure how much flush water will pass through your system by collecting and measuring how much water comes out the thru hull fitting on the port side of the hull. At the programmed time, the timer contacts close sending 24 volts to the relay coil. This causes the relay coil to actuate and the relay contacts close, sending 24 volt power to the fresh water pump, The pump actuates for 5 minutes, sending fresh water thru the water maker system (flushes the low pressure pump, the series of filters, the high pressure pump, the membranes and the plumbing of the control panel). It has worked for 5 years without fail. I have a small portable solar panel that I leave out when off the boat to trickle charge the batteries and this has always kept up with the energy needs of the brief run cycles
of the pump. My only concern was having to leave the main 24 volt power switches on the battery bank in the on position when I leave the boat. I do make sure that every other breaker on the boat is turned off, including (1) the breakers in the engine room, (2) forward cabin, (3) beneath the nav station, (4) in the hanging locker by the nav station, and (5) above the overhead of the quarter berth, (6) all the 24 volt panel breakers except the bilge pump and fresh water pump. A potential failure mode would be if the timer or ganged-relay failed in the "on" position. In that case the pump would actuate until the water tanks were empty and them might continue to run until pump failure or battery depletion. I have toyed with installing some sort of "run-on" sensor that would time out the system and turn it off if the pump ran too long. I just haven't gotten around to that yet.
To flush with the water maker on or off is an interesting discus
sion. I have always flushed with the water maker off except when I am flushing the entire sea-chest/manifold system when leaving the boat. In that case I put the hose from shore water source in to the sea-chest and turn the water maker on. I have yet to find a source of water strong enough to keep up with the water maker's need for water. I have to cycle the water maker on and off to prevent it from sucking air from the sea chest. I can see why flushing with the system running would give more through-put of flush water and thus do a more thorough flush, but having the high pressure pump cavitate with air is supposedly damaging to that pump. Perhaps you can keep up with the feed water needs of the lower capacity water maker using shore water to flush but I cannot.
Nice chatting with you Jonas. I will post an alert when I post the schematic of the timer modification in the photo's section. Sincerely, Gary Silver Amel SM #335 s/v Liahona Sint Maartin Dutch West Indies
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ann-Sofie Svanberg wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
> thank you for a fact oriented and short answer. I totally share your opinion regarding how to deal with the WM and was not aware of the Sodium meta-bisulfite. Have not used it and will probably not do it either. I am really interested in your automatic rinsing solution, could you please send some additional info regarding this, it will be most appreciated.
> I think I have solved the major question regarding the rinsing, in the Amel manual for this boat it says that the Dessalator unit should be tunred off but in the official info from Dessalator it says that it should be on but without pressure(the D50 has no automatic rinsing function). Doing the rinsing with the unit on gave a much better quality of the produced water than having it off. We
now produce water with approx. 250 PTS level(using a Com 100) which I think is ok.
>
> Once again, thank you for a fast and very good answer!
>
> All the best from a cloudy but warm island of Brac, Croatia
>
> Jonas (Svanberg)
> S/Y Lady Annila
> SM # 232
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
|
|
|
Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h
Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
Gary,
Thanks for the great explanation of a simple timed fresh water flush system for the Dessalator membranes. In sending for the timer using your link, I note that it refers to a 24 Volt AC timer. Can I safely assume that you meant to refer to a 24 Volt DC timer? Here is the corresponding 24 Volt DC link that I found:
http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-30/DT-dsh-06-fdsh--24-VOLT-DC/Detail
Same price, same functionality, I believe.
Derick Gates
Amel SM #400
s/v Brava
Currently on the hard at Bailey's Boatyard in Antigua
As of January 4th, 2013, Sapphire Beach Marina, St. Thomas USVI
---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote:
H Jonas: Regarding the timer flush system that I hooked up: I purchased one of these http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-96/DT-dsh-05-fdsh--24-Volt-AC/DetailI hope that link will post. If not, just google "24 volt fish feeder timer" or something like that and you will come across some 24 volt 7 day timers. The one mentioned above was about $35.00 US. This one was rated at 16 amps and had an internal battery backup. Since I wasn't exactly sure of the current draw of the fresh water pump on my boat I hooked the output of the timer to a 28 volt relay that was rated at a much higher amperage. I don't have the specification of the relay, but it was about $15.00 US at the local chandlery and its contacts were rated at 50 amps or something like that. So the timer controls the relay, that regulates power to the fresh water pump. At any rate, in the area behind the 24 volt breaker panel is a terminal block with a cover for 24 volt power. I wired the timer to this source, I then cut the wire from the breaker for the fresh water pump and wired it through the contacts of the relay. The control coil of the relay is controlled by 24 volt power from the control contacts of the timer (ganged relays). (I will try and post a schematic of this wiring in the Dessalator photos folder). The timer has a switch for "On" or "Timer" mode. When aboard the boat, we place that switch in the ON position and the fresh water pump operates as normal with the pressure switch on the pump functioning as usual. When we leave the boat, we make sure the water tank is full, switch the flush valve on the water maker low pressure pump to the flush position, and set the timer to the TIMER mode. We program the timer to flush for 5 minutes every other or every third day. 5 minutes of flush every third day will use about 500 to 700 liters of fresh water in 6 months. Your results may vary and you should actually time and measure how much flush water will pass through your system by collecting and measuring how much water comes out the thru hull fitting on the port side of the hull. At the programmed time, the timer contacts close sending 24 volts to the relay coil. This causes the relay coil to actuate and the relay contacts close, sending 24 volt power to the fresh water pump, The pump actuates for 5 minutes, sending fresh water thru the water maker system (flushes the low pressure pump, the series of filters, the high pressure pump, the membranes and the plumbing of the control panel). It has worked for 5 years without fail. I have a small portable solar panel that I leave out when off the boat to trickle charge the batteries and this has always kept up with the energy needs of the brief run cycles of the pump. My only concern was having to leave the main 24 volt power switches on the battery bank in the on position when I leave the boat. I do make sure that every other breaker on the boat is turned off, including (1) the breakers in the engine room, (2) forward cabin, (3) beneath the nav station, (4) in the hanging locker by the nav station, and (5) above the overhead of the quarter berth, (6) all the 24 volt panel breakers except the bilge pump and fresh water pump. A potential failure mode would be if the timer or ganged-relay failed in the "on" position. In that case the pump would actuate until the water tanks were empty and them might continue to run until pump failure or battery depletion. I have toyed with installing some sort of "run-on" sensor that would time out the system and turn it off if the pump ran too long. I just haven't gotten around to that yet. To flush with the water maker on or off is an interesting discussion. I have always flushed with the water maker off except when I am flushing the entire sea-chest/manifold system when leaving the boat. In that case I put the hose from shore water source in to the sea-chest and turn the water maker on. I have yet to find a source of water strong enough to keep up with the water maker's need for water. I have to cycle the water maker on and off to prevent it from sucking air from the sea chest. I can see why flushing with the system running would give more through-put of flush water and thus do a more thorough flush, but having the high pressure pump cavitate with air is supposedly damaging to that pump. Perhaps you can keep up with the feed water needs of the lower capacity water maker using shore water to flush but I cannot. Nice chatting with you Jonas. I will post an alert when I post the schematic of the timer modification in the photo's section. Sincerely, Gary Silver Amel SM #335 s/v Liahona Sint Maartin Dutch West Indies
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
> thank you for a fact oriented and short answer. I totally share your opinion regarding how to deal with the WM and was not aware of the Sodium meta-bisulfite. Have not used it and will probably not do it either. I am really interested in your automatic rinsing solution, could you please send some additional info regarding this, it will be most appreciated.
> I think I have solved the major question regarding the rinsing, in the Amel manual for this boat it says that the Dessalator unit should be tunred off but in the official info from Dessalator it says that it should be on but without pressure(the D50 has no automatic rinsing function). Doing the rinsing with the unit on gave a much better quality of the produced water than having it off. We now produce water with approx. 250 PTS level(using a Com 100) which I think is ok.
>
> Once again, thank you for a fast and very good answer!
>
> All the best from a cloudy but warm island of Brac, Croatia
>
> Jonas (Svanberg)
> S/Y Lady Annila
> SM # 232
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
|
|
|
Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Richard, Thursday is good, give me a call at home by 8 am. 410-348-2388 and let me know when and I'll tell you how to get here from 301. Its going to be 26 degrees tomorrow morning, but Thursday looks sunny and warmer. Pat
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2013 10:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
How about this Thurs. ?
Regards
Richard Piller
On Nov 11, 2013, at 17:29, Patrick Mcaneny < sailw32@...> wrote:
Richard, I always run all my water through a charcoal filter from the tank. What is in the lines takes a lot of flushing to get rid of the awful taste. Nice to talk to you last week and Great Water a Dessalator dealer treats and winterizes as you suggested, just the pink stuff, no chemicals. Next time travelling north from Annapolis come up Rt. 301 and stop by ,only 5 miles off 301.
&
nbsp; Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard03801 < richard03801@...>
To: amelyachtowners < amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2013 2:42 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Hi Pat to clean up the taste issues charcoal filter between your tank and fresh water pump taste issues should go away. And in the spring flush flush and flush some more and you'll have good water
On Nov 11, 2013, at 12:13, Patrick Mcaneny < sailw32@...> wrote:
I just spoke with a Dessalator dealer up in New England about winterizing the watermaker, and they said all they do, is run potable, pink antifreeze through the watermakers and its good for several months. They do not use the chemicals because its " bad stuff". I have been using it for years in the water systems and it leaves an unpleasant taste/odor and requires massive flushing in the spring to rid the system of odor and bad taste.
&
amp;
nbsp; Pat
&
amp;
nbsp; Shenanigans Sassafras River Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & Judy Rouse < yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners < amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 7:43 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Pat,
I know little about prepping for a winter freeze, but I would think that the small amount of Sodium Metabisulfite used with fresh water would not keep the solution from freezing.
This is what Dessalator says:
How to winterize your watermaker:
Several solutions are possible:-
If someone regularly comes on board, rinsing with the three-way valve on the pre pump will be sufficient; this should be carried out while the watermaker is idle.
- For extended periods (5 to 6 months) of storage, we have developed a sterilizing cartridge (see the page sterilizing cartridge).
- FREEZING CONDITIONS: If the boat stays in a very cold region, please take a bucket containing 8 litres of warm fresh water mixed with one glycerine litre (you will find it in a drugstore) and let the seawater inlet hose suck up the mixture by starting the watermaker without pressure. You should then empty the flow meter tube on the control panel by blowing into the blue hose connected to the membranes. In normal winter conditions, only empty the flow meter tube and use the sterilizing cartridge ST2.
I bought a 24 volt timer and a 24 volt valve that I plan to install to rinse the membranes when I am away for longer than 1 month.
Other than that, I am not able to help.
Bill
BeBe
|
|
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Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
How about this Thurs. ? Regards Richard Piller
On Nov 11, 2013, at 17:29, Patrick Mcaneny < sailw32@...> wrote:
Richard, I always run all my water through a charcoal filter from the tank. What is in the lines takes a lot of flushing to get rid of the awful taste. Nice to talk to you last week and Great Water a Dessalator dealer treats and winterizes as you suggested, just the pink stuff, no chemicals. Next time travelling north from Annapolis come up Rt. 301 and stop by ,only 5 miles off 301.
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard03801 < richard03801@...>
To: amelyachtowners < amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2013 2:42 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Hi Pat to clean up the taste issues charcoal filter between your tank and fresh water pump taste issues should go away. And in the spring flush flush and flush some more and you'll have good water
On Nov 11, 2013, at 12:13, Patrick Mcaneny < sailw32@...> wrote:
I just spoke with a Dessalator dealer up in New England about winterizing the watermaker, and they said all they do, is run potable, pink antifreeze through the watermakers and its good for several months. They do not use the chemicals because its " bad stuff". I have been using it for years in the water systems and it leaves an unpleasant taste/odor and requires massive flushing in the spring to rid the system of odor and bad taste.
&
nbsp; Pat
&
nbsp; Shenanigans Sassafras River Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & Judy Rouse < yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners < amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 7:43 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Pat,
I know little about prepping for a winter freeze, but I would think that the small amount of Sodium Metabisulfite used with fresh water would not keep the solution from freezing.
This is what Dessalator says:
How to winterize your watermaker:
Several solutions are possible:-
If someone regularly comes on board, rinsing with the three-way valve on the pre pump will be sufficient; this should be carried out while the watermaker is idle.
- For extended periods (5 to 6 months) of storage, we have developed a sterilizing cartridge (see the page sterilizing cartridge).
- FREEZING CONDITIONS: If the boat stays in a very cold region, please take a bucket containing 8 litres of warm fresh water mixed with one glycerine litre (you will find it in a drugstore) and let the seawater inlet hose suck up the mixture by starting the watermaker without pressure. You should then empty the flow meter tube on the control panel by blowing into the blue hose connected to the membranes. In normal winter conditions, only empty the flow meter tube and use the sterilizing cartridge ST2.
I bought a 24 volt timer and a 24 volt valve that I plan to install to rinse the membranes when I am away for longer than 1 month.
Other than that, I am not able to help.
Bill
BeBe
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Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Richard, I always run all my water through a charcoal filter from the tank. What is in the lines takes a lot of flushing to get rid of the awful taste. Nice to talk to you last week and Great Water a Dessalator dealer treats and winterizes as you suggested, just the pink stuff, no chemicals. Next time travelling north from Annapolis come up Rt. 301 and stop by ,only 5 miles off 301.
Pat
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard03801
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2013 2:42 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Hi Pat to clean up the taste issues charcoal filter between your tank and fresh water pump taste issues should go away. And in the spring flush flush and flush some more and you'll have good water
On Nov 11, 2013, at 12:13, Patrick Mcaneny < sailw32@...> wrote:
I just spoke with a Dessalator dealer up in New England about winterizing the watermaker, and they said all they do, is run potable, pink antifreeze through the watermakers and its good for several months. They do not use the chemicals because its " bad stuff". I have been using it for years in the water systems and it leaves an unpleasant taste/odor and requires massive flushing in the spring to rid the system of odor and bad taste.
&
nbsp; Pat
&
nbsp; Shenanigans Sassafras River Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & Judy Rouse < yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners < amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 7:43 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Pat,
I know little about prepping for a winter freeze, but I would think that the small amount of Sodium Metabisulfite used with fresh water would not keep the solution from freezing.
This is what Dessalator says:
How to winterize your watermaker:
Several solutions are possible:-
If someone regularly comes on board, rinsing with the three-way valve on the pre pump will be sufficient; this should be carried out while the watermaker is idle.
- For extended periods (5 to 6 months) of storage, we have developed a sterilizing cartridge (see the page sterilizing cartridge).
- FREEZING CONDITIONS: If the boat stays in a very cold region, please take a bucket containing 8 litres of warm fresh water mixed with one glycerine litre (you will find it in a drugstore) and let the seawater inlet hose suck up the mixture by starting the watermaker without pressure. You should then empty the flow meter tube on the control panel by blowing into the blue hose connected to the membranes. In normal winter conditions, only empty the flow meter tube and use the sterilizing cartridge ST2.
I bought a 24 volt timer and a 24 volt valve that I plan to install to rinse the membranes when I am away for longer than 1 month.
Other than that, I am not able to help.
Bill
BeBe
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Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
Hi Pat to clean up the taste issues charcoal filter between your tank and fresh water pump taste issues should go away. And in the spring flush flush and flush some more and you'll have good water
On Nov 11, 2013, at 12:13, Patrick Mcaneny < sailw32@...> wrote:
I just spoke with a Dessalator dealer up in New England about winterizing the watermaker, and they said all they do, is run potable, pink antifreeze through the watermakers and its good for several months. They do not use the chemicals because its " bad stuff". I have been using it for years in the water systems and it leaves an unpleasant taste/odor and requires massive flushing in the spring to rid the system of odor and bad taste.
Pat
Shenanigans Sassafras River Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & Judy Rouse < yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners < amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 7:43 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Pat,
I know little about prepping for a winter freeze, but I would think that the small amount of Sodium Metabisulfite used with fresh water would not keep the solution from freezing.
This is what Dessalator says:
How to winterize your watermaker:
Several solutions are possible:-
If someone regularly comes on board, rinsing with the three-way valve on the pre pump will be sufficient; this should be carried out while the watermaker is idle.
- For extended periods (5 to 6 months) of storage, we have developed a sterilizing cartridge (see the page sterilizing cartridge).
- FREEZING CONDITIONS: If the boat stays in a very cold region, please take a bucket containing 8 litres of warm fresh water mixed with one glycerine litre (you will find it in a drugstore) and let the seawater inlet hose suck up the mixture by starting the watermaker without pressure. You should then empty the flow meter tube on the control panel by blowing into the blue hose connected to the membranes. In normal winter conditions, only empty the flow meter tube and use the sterilizing cartridge ST2.
I bought a 24 volt timer and a 24 volt valve that I plan to install to rinse the membranes when I am away for longer than 1 month.
Other than that, I am not able to help.
Bill
BeBe
|
|
|
Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
I just spoke with a Dessalator dealer up in New England about winterizing the watermaker, and they said all they do, is run potable, pink antifreeze through the watermakers and its good for several months. They do not use the chemicals because its " bad stuff". I have been using it for years in the water systems and it leaves an unpleasant taste/odor and requires massive flushing in the spring to rid the system of odor and bad taste.
Pat
Shenanigans Sassafras River Md.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & Judy Rouse
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 7:43 am
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Pickling watermaker
Pat,
I know little about prepping for a winter freeze, but I would think that the small amount of Sodium Metabisulfite used with fresh water would not keep the solution from freezing.
This is what Dessalator says:
How to winterize your watermaker:
Several solutions are possible:-
If someone regularly comes on board, rinsing with the three-way valve on the pre pump will be sufficient; this should be carried out while the watermaker is idle.
- For extended periods (5 to 6 months) of storage, we have developed a sterilizing cartridge (see the page sterilizing cartridge).
- FREEZING CONDITIONS: If the boat stays in a very cold region, please take a bucket containing 8 litres of warm fresh water mixed with one glycerine litre (you will find it in a drugstore) and let the seawater inlet hose suck up the mixture by starting the watermaker without pressure. You should then empty the flow meter tube on the control panel by blowing into the blue hose connected to the membranes. In normal winter conditions, only empty the flow meter tube and use the sterilizing cartridge ST2.
I bought a 24 volt timer and a 24 volt valve that I plan to install to rinse the membranes when I am away for longer than 1 month.
Other than that, I am not able to help.
Bill
BeBe
|
|
|
Re: [Amel] RE: MAin outhaul line
Kent Robertson
I don't remember the exact lost retch line I bought, but it was too slippery at first. At someone's suggestion(I think it was John and Ruth on Moon Dog) I sprayed it with 3M contact cement. It worked fine and by the time the cement had worn off the line had weathered enough to hold on its own. Kent SM 243 Kristy
On Nov 11, 2013, at 3:06 AM, Chris Smither < yachtakwaaba@...> wrote:
Hi, On our Santorin we found spectra had 10 per cent stretch and was too slippy. We replaced it with one of our older spare ropes. No worries now!
Mike , SV Akwaaba 027 santorin sloop
Thanks Bill, My thoughts exactly...good to have confirmation Cheers Alan SV Elyse SM437 ---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote: Yes, I have, and used the wrong kind of line before switching to low-stretch line.
Also, it needs to be very tight...even the low stretch will stretch, so take this into consideration when rigging. I forgot exactly how I did it, but I used the outhaul motor to tighten the line while installing it. When you are installing, either use the outhaul to tighten or rig some blocks/line and use one of the mast winches to tighten.
Hope this helps,
Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387
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Craig Briggs
Last time we were through LaRochelle I got replacement line from Amel for all the runs (outhaul, traveller, and jib cars). It was a three layer line with parallel core Kevlar surrounded by two woven layers. I don'r recall exactly what they charged, but it was oddly inexpensive for Amel. Had also tried Spectra with poor results, the Amel supplied line is excellent, although you do need to tension it a lot. Good luck with it, Craig SN #68 Sangaris ---In amelyachtowners@..., <divanz620@...> wrote: Thanks Colin...that's good to know...and also others that have commented. I'm going to the gold plated shop tomorrow and buy a length of Spectra and see how it goes. I think the outhaul line is probably the original...but it sure has stretched a lot...even in the last two weeks And also, Colin, thanks again for the SSB installation info, we have ours in the same place as yours but the triatic stay antenna doesn't work well...the coax going up the mizzen is the problem....I've got a temporary wire going out the small hatch in the cockpit and onto the main backstay...works a treat, but need to warn the crew to stay away from it when xmting!! Will get insulators put in that stay soon...and will repost so its searchable. Cheers Alan SV Elyse SM437 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote: Hi Alan Good to hear you are getting good time out sailing that beautiful boat of yours. Our outhaul line on the main boom snapped under pressure (it was actually pretty warn before this and had been on my "to do list" to replace anyway) and we replaced it with the same Spectra. After using for a brief period this new line stretched out causing the line to slip and not furl correctly. We then shortened it further and have had no further problems after that initial stretching of the new Spectra.
Fair winds Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II SM2K #332 - Mackay, QLD Australia.
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 5:25 PM, <divanz620@...> wrote:
We've had some issues with the outhaul line on the main boom...it stretches and sometimes gets jammed in the boom motor pulley and it won't wind out or in. I've shortened it, re tied it..but it still happens.
I'm thinking of changing the line to low stretch Spectra to try to solve this issue. anyone else have this experience ? solutions ?? Cheers Alan S.V.Elyse SM437...in Opua, New Zealand
--
Colin Streeter0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel] RE: Watertight, my foot!
Later SM's have a water tight housing for the improved bow thruster
with a drain to the engine room bilge to get rid of seepage past the
seals. There is thus never water under the floor by the forward
heads.
On my first SM this was not so and I experienced the same problems
that Alexandre and others have experienced. I did however cure that
problem without the use of pumps. In a Home Depot store in the USA I
found a 4.5" to 5" rubber boot that is used to convert from one pipe
size to the other. I fitted the 5" end to the raised section of the
bow thruster box with sealant and a jubilee clamp. The top of the
4.5" section had to be cut down a bit to allow the motor to bottom
out when lowered. I drilled holes on the port and starboard side of
the rubber boot, fitted nylon right angled hose connectors and
joined them to a nylon Y-Connector with suitable polythene tubing.
The bottom of the Y was connected to a barbed connector that I
brazed over a hole drilled into the chain locker shut off valve
assembly. From that day on, the underfloor area was completely dry.
(The dimensions of the rubber boot are from memory so best measure
up first).
Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus
Sorry for the late reply Kent / Bill...we've been at sea
for the last week...great trip by the way...Noumea to
Opua.
YES that's exactly what happens.....going to windward in
heavy seas on st'bd tack is when we see it, so it must be
coming from the chain locker....that's why I'm going to
put an extra valve in the drain from the fwd head...ie the
head will be isolated but the chain locker can still drain
into the sump.
thanks for your input
Cheers
Alan
S.V.Elyse SM437
---In amelyachtowners@...,
wrote:
Joel accurately
described the factors behind the failure of
the ‘watertight’ bulkhead between the forward
accommodation and the saloon:
whether owing to builder oversight, modification or
age, the space between the
conduit trunking and the pipes taking water for heads,
a/c and anchor wash is not
filled. In our case this is visible
from
forward under the lower shelf beneath the holding
tank.
We were made
aware of the issue only because we a) had failed to
check
the tightness of the bowthruster cables, b) were
heeled to port at 20-30 degrees for 48 hours as we
crossed the Bay of Biscay fine reaching on starboard
in
25-35kt winds and a biggish sea c) slamming
frequently. a) and c) meant the
bowthruster leaked
prodigiously and b) that the collected water crossed
the watertight bulkhead through
the pipe trunkings. It became visible
in
the central stowage (saloon and forward cabin) only
when the boat came upright
on arrival in Gijon.
I suppose that
the purpose of this site is for us to learn
from one another’s experiences. In this
case people with boats answering Joel’s description
should probably check their bulkheads. Like
Mahili, we fixed the problem – we used
closed cell foam. And check your
bowthruster before making a big trip!
Fair winds
Anne and Keith
SM2K 261
---In amelyachtowners@...,
wrote:
I'm guessing that water from the chain locker
may find its way into the forward shower well
when heeled to port if all valves are open and
there is significant water in the chain locker.
Is that the issue?
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Wow, Alan, I have never, ever,
experienced that. Possibly I do not
understand your use of the word "waste" from
the "forward head drain." I understand that
to mean GRAY water from the shower and sink.
That water should have already passed
through a hose that runs slightly downhill
from the forward head drain to the sump. I
cannot imagine how this is happening to you,
unless that drain hose has been moved from
its original position, or your bow is down
about 25-30cm. Is the drain hose in the
bottom of each saloon locker?
You might try pouring 1-2 liter of
colored water into the shower drain and
have someone watch at the sump to see if
it drains and it is colored. Possibly
there is an obstruction in the hose.
Please explain further...I am always a
little slow on understanding something
new.
Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
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Eric,
I too had a problem with the sensor which showed by counting up on a
hot sunny day. Trouble shooting was not productive but replacing the
sensor cured the problem completely. I obtained an IB5076 from
Pochon La Rochelle, but about 5 years ago. Bill has the later model
sensor which we can only hope is more reliable.
Good luck
Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus
On 10/11/2013 19:57, eric wrote:
i recall some discussions about troubleshooting/
replacement of the chain counter. but I could not find
it.
my display in the cockpit is lit but the counter does
not work.
Where do i go from here?
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite
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Alan Leslie
Thanks Colin...that's good to know...and also others that have commented. I'm going to the gold plated shop tomorrow and buy a length of Spectra and see how it goes. I think the outhaul line is probably the original...but it sure has stretched a lot...even in the last two weeks And also, Colin, thanks again for the SSB installation info, we have ours in the same place as yours but the triatic stay antenna doesn't work well...the coax going up the mizzen is the problem....I've got a temporary wire going out the small hatch in the cockpit and onto the main backstay...works a treat, but need to warn the crew to stay away from it when xmting!! Will get insulators put in that stay soon...and will repost so its searchable. Cheers Alan SV Elyse SM437 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote: Hi Alan Good to hear you are getting good time out sailing that beautiful boat of yours. Our outhaul line on the main boom snapped under pressure (it was actually pretty warn before this and had been on my "to do list" to replace anyway) and we replaced it with the same Spectra. After using for a brief period this new line stretched out causing the line to slip and not furl correctly. We then shortened it further and have had no further problems after that initial stretching of the new Spectra.
Fair winds Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II SM2K #332 - Mackay, QLD Australia.
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 5:25 PM, <divanz620@...> wrote:
We've had some issues with the outhaul line on the main boom...it stretches and sometimes gets jammed in the boom motor pulley and it won't wind out or in. I've shortened it, re tied it..but it still happens.
I'm thinking of changing the line to low stretch Spectra to try to solve this issue. anyone else have this experience ? solutions ?? Cheers Alan S.V.Elyse SM437...in Opua, New Zealand
--
Colin Streeter0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel] MAin outhaul line
Alan,
I remember how to use the outhaul to tightly stretch the new line when installing.
Move the outhaul block to about 1 meter from the mast-end of the boom.
Tie a piece of 6mm line to the shackle on the outhaul and to the mast. You do not need to tighten the line at this point, but it should have just a little slack.
Tie and whip the new outhaul line to the aft end of the shackle on the outhaul car...do not tie and whip the forward side yet.
Run the outhaul line from the outhaul car through the starboard side of the aft outhaul line block at the aft end of the boom. Then run the line through the two line guides on the port side of the boom then around the powered outhaul block.
Pull the bitter end of the outhaul line while someone activates the outhaul to "OUT." Try small bursts to the outhaul switch until you believe the outhaul line is tight enough.
The small piece of 6mm line will get very tight and the outhaul line will stretch.
Have your helper hold the new outhaul line securely in the powered outhaul block while you tie and whip a knot in the end about 15mm from the shackle on the outhaul block.
Use 4mm line from the knot to the shackle.
Hope this helps.
Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote: Hi Alan Good to hear you are getting good time out sailing that beautiful boat of yours. Our outhaul line on the main boom snapped under pressure (it was actually pretty warn before this and had been on my "to do list" to replace anyway) and we replaced it with the same Spectra. After using for a brief period this new line stretched out causing the line to slip and not furl correctly. We then shortened it further and have had no further problems after that initial stretching of the new Spectra.
Fair winds Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II SM2K #332 - Mackay, QLD Australia.
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 5:25 PM, <divanz620@...> wrote:
We've had some issues with the outhaul line on the main boom...it stretches and sometimes gets jammed in the boom motor pulley and it won't wind out or in. I've shortened it, re tied it..but it still happens.
I'm thinking of changing the line to low stretch Spectra to try to solve this issue. anyone else have this experience ? solutions ?? Cheers Alan S.V.Elyse SM437...in Opua, New Zealand
--
Colin Streeter0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel] MAin outhaul line
Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
Hi Alan Good to hear you are getting good time out sailing that beautiful boat of yours. Our outhaul line on the main boom snapped under pressure (it was actually pretty warn before this and had been on my "to do list" to replace anyway) and we replaced it with the same Spectra. After using for a brief period this new line stretched out causing the line to slip and not furl correctly. We then shortened it further and have had no further problems after that initial stretching of the new Spectra.
Fair winds Colin Streeter, Island Pearl II SM2K #332 - Mackay, QLD Australia.
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 5:25 PM, <divanz620@...> wrote:
We've had some issues with the outhaul line on the main boom...it stretches and sometimes gets jammed in the boom motor pulley and it won't wind out or in. I've shortened it, re tied it..but it still happens.
I'm thinking of changing the line to low stretch Spectra to try to solve this issue. anyone else have this experience ? solutions ?? Cheers Alan S.V.Elyse SM437...in Opua, New Zealand
-- Colin Streeter0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel] RE: MAin outhaul line
Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
Hi, On our Santorin we found spectra had 10 per cent stretch and was too slippy. We replaced it with one of our older spare ropes. No worries now!
Mike , SV Akwaaba 027 santorin sloop
On 11 Nov 2013, at 07:58, < divanz620@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill, My thoughts exactly...good to have confirmation Cheers Alan SV Elyse SM437 ---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote: Yes, I have, and used the wrong kind of line before switching to low-stretch line.
Also, it needs to be very tight...even the low stretch will stretch, so take this into consideration when rigging. I forgot exactly how I did it, but I used the outhaul motor to tighten the line while installing it. When you are installing, either use the outhaul to tighten or rig some blocks/line and use one of the mast winches to tighten.
Hope this helps,
Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387
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Alan Leslie
Thanks Bill, My thoughts exactly...good to have confirmation Cheers Alan SV Elyse SM437 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote: Yes, I have, and used the wrong kind of line before switching to low-stretch line.
Also, it needs to be very tight...even the low stretch will stretch, so take this into consideration when rigging. I forgot exactly how I did it, but I used the outhaul motor to tighten the line while installing it. When you are installing, either use the outhaul to tighten or rig some blocks/line and use one of the mast winches to tighten.
Hope this helps,
Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 7:25 AM, <divanz620@...> wrote:
We've had some issues with the outhaul line on the main boom...it stretches and sometimes gets jammed in the boom motor pulley and it won't wind out or in. I've shortened it, re tied it..but it still happens.
I'm thinking of changing the line to low stretch Spectra to try to solve this issue. anyone else have this experience ? solutions ?? Cheers Alan S.V.Elyse SM437...in Opua, New Zealand
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Re: [Amel] MAin outhaul line
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Yes, I have, and used the wrong kind of line before switching to low-stretch line.
Also, it needs to be very tight...even the low stretch will stretch, so take this into consideration when rigging. I forgot exactly how I did it, but I used the outhaul motor to tighten the line while installing it. When you are installing, either use the outhaul to tighten or rig some blocks/line and use one of the mast winches to tighten.
Hope this helps,
Bill BeBe, SM2k, #387
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 7:25 AM, <divanz620@...> wrote:
We've had some issues with the outhaul line on the main boom...it stretches and sometimes gets jammed in the boom motor pulley and it won't wind out or in. I've shortened it, re tied it..but it still happens.
I'm thinking of changing the line to low stretch Spectra to try to solve this issue. anyone else have this experience ? solutions ?? Cheers Alan S.V.Elyse SM437...in Opua, New Zealand
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Alan Leslie
We've had some issues with the outhaul line on the main boom...it stretches and sometimes gets jammed in the boom motor pulley and it won't wind out or in. I've shortened it, re tied it..but it still happens. I'm thinking of changing the line to low stretch Spectra to try to solve this issue. anyone else have this experience ? solutions ?? Cheers Alan S.V.Elyse SM437...in Opua, New Zealand
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