Joel, Could you please send a picture of how it is supposed to be done?
I believe mine is moved forward since I have to close the dodger window when tacking, but not exactly sure...
A picture would help so much!
Thanks in advance!
Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


--------------------------------------------

Hi,
We reengineer our Santorin with a Volvo D2-55 delivered to Phuket from D B Marine ,UK .
Contact:
Richard Abadee
D. B. International Limited
Cookham Bridge
Cookham on Thames
Berkshire SL6 9SN


Tel: +44 (0)1628 526032
Fax: +44 (0)1628 520564
email: parts@...

www. dbmarine.co.uk
They were very helpful.
Chris & Mike Smither
santorin "Akwaaba "

2300

I guess you've read my posts about the props that came with my boat from Amel?!
Kent
SM 243 Kristy
On Aug 13, 2013, at 8:45 AM, "Graham" <crwggb@...> wrote:

Straight forward question:

If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your Super Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the max prop fitted? The more responses the better!

Graham
SM 140 Sula
Hong Kong

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Where is the best place to buy a new turbo for the Volvo TMD22? Has any one got a pet supplier of perkins parts that I should go to?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong

Straight forward question:

If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your Super Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the max prop fitted? The more responses the better!

Graham
SM 140 Sula
Hong Kong

Hi Anne and John,
I'm confused by your "grey water tank" alarms.  On SM 243 there is no grey water tank...the grey water flows directly into the bilge sump.  I'm guessing you are talking about the fresh water tank?

Once while on a passage in no wind we were motoring along and making water with the 24v 60 l/h watermaker, which can be powered by the alternator on the main engine.  I went to sleep while two shifts were covered by other crew.  I woke up hours later to find the watermaker still happily pumping water into the tank which was happily overflowing into the salon sole lockers.  I calculated that we had thoroughly washed the lockers with something like 350 liters of fresh water...I then scooped and pumped that 350l into the galley sink and thoroughly washed out the lines and bilge sump. Ooops! The bilge below the salon sole holds a LOT of water before it starts splashing up through the hatches.  I haven't put in an alarm, but part of my watch routine is now to open the salon floor hatch and have a look.  Otherwise have never had a drop of water down there.

I did take someone's advice and put an alarm in the bilge area by the forward head to alarm if water started leaking in from the bow thruster.  Since I last changed the seals on the thruster I've had no water leaking in, but the low battery alarm on the monitor really had me looking for the source of that annoying beep for a while.

Kent
SM 243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA 


________________________________
From: Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 6:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Marina mains water and fresh water pump



 
Hello Bill and Judy,
I quite agree which is why we would not leave the boat with mains water connected. My primary reason for making the connection is that we only put water maker water into out tanks. To make 900 ltrs at 160 ltrs ph takes six hours and thus about 18 ltrs of diesel at €1.70 per ltr.
We also have two alarms against the grey water tank overflowing.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Sicily

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Marina mains water and fresh water pump

Hi all,
another thing to think of is the SM has a 1000 litre water tank. If you leave the boat with the fresh water pump turned on (but stopped because of the pressure switch) and a leak develops some where while you are away you will get 1000 litres of nice fresh water in the engine room.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <mailto:yahoogroups%40svbebe.com>
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 13 August 2013 1:59 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Marina mains water and fresh water pump

John,

Water flow at 40psi through 3/4" hose/pipe is about 300 liters/minute.. How long would it take a burst hose or broken hose clamp in the watertight engine room to cause the filling the engine room, assuming that the automatic bilge pump will pump out at 75 liters/minute? I think my flow calculations are fairly accurate.

I have thought about this because I know some people connect directly to their water system, but decided that I would put a few more hours on my pump rather than risk filling the engine room.

I am not trying to be critical of your method, but since you put this out there, I wanted to say something about the downside. Some people might follow your method without thinking about the downside.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently anchored near Fethiye, Turkey

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Our freshwater pump is a 40 psi Jabsco which is fine. The plumbing is all on one circuit so the pressure tank behind the generator gets pressurised by the Jabsco. Mains water is normally much cheaper than watermaker water so we switch off the Jabsco and connect the hose in the cockpit locker to the mains hose which then supplies the boat without spoiling the water in our tank. If we want drinking water we turn off the stopcock in the cockpit locker, turn on the Jabsco and run off some water in the galley first. Not sure that this would be safe in the rare marina with very high pressure mains and at any event we turn off the mains before leaving the boat.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Marsala, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Bill and Judy,
I quite agree which is why we would not leave the boat with mains water connected. My primary reason for making the connection is that we only put water maker water into out tanks. To make 900 ltrs at 160 ltrs ph takes six hours and thus about 18 ltrs of diesel at €1.70 per ltr.
We also have two alarms against the grey water tank overflowing.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319, Sicily

From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Marina mains water and fresh water pump


Hi all,
another thing to think of is the SM has a 1000 litre water tank. If you leave the boat with the fresh water pump turned on (but stopped because of the pressure switch) and a leak develops some where while you are away you will get 1000 litres of nice fresh water in the engine room.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <mailto:yahoogroups%40svbebe.com>
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 13 August 2013 1:59 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Marina mains water and fresh water pump


John,

Water flow at 40psi through 3/4" hose/pipe is about 300 liters/minute.. How long would it take a burst hose or broken hose clamp in the watertight engine room to cause the filling the engine room, assuming that the automatic bilge pump will pump out at 75 liters/minute? I think my flow calculations are fairly accurate.

I have thought about this because I know some people connect directly to their water system, but decided that I would put a few more hours on my pump rather than risk filling the engine room.

I am not trying to be critical of your method, but since you put this out there, I wanted to say something about the downside. Some people might follow your method without thinking about the downside.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently anchored near Fethiye, Turkey

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Our freshwater pump is a 40 psi Jabsco which is fine. The plumbing is all on one circuit so the pressure tank behind the generator gets pressurised by the Jabsco. Mains water is normally much cheaper than watermaker water so we switch off the Jabsco and connect the hose in the cockpit locker to the mains hose which then supplies the boat without spoiling the water in our tank. If we want drinking water we turn off the stopcock in the cockpit locker, turn on the Jabsco and run off some water in the galley first. Not sure that this would be safe in the rare marina with very high pressure mains and at any event we turn off the mains before leaving the boat.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Marsala, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Eric, I very recently had the main sheet attachment actually pull out of the
boom on an older Super Maramu in ten knots of wind. Most of all the symptoms
you mention were present after the fact but none of them were visible prior.
The rig had just been completely disassembled, painted, rewired, new
standing and running rigging.the whole nine yards. I, in addition to my
riggers, who I consider to be top notch, completely inspected and put 'hands
on' the entire rig when the old paint was mostly removed to check for failed
welds, distortion, any evidence of abuse. None was noted. We are repairing
it by welding in a doubler where the old sheet attachment was. Eric, I would
strongly recommend that you do not move the attachment point forward at all.
As you know, the position of the sheet makes it necessary to 'tack' the
opening window/port in the port side dodger. Many customers moved this
attachment forward a few inches to gain more clearance on the dodger
opening. This usually results in the boom breaking catastrophically at the
"improved" attachment point. Jacques Carteau told me to NEVER move the
attachment forward as the downward pull on the boom would cause exactly this
failure. When attached as designed, the pull down is mitigated somewhat with
some of the energy pulling the boom forward. When I give 'new to them'
second hand Super Maramu owners the Amel School on their boats, I always
make a point to tell them about this as it is so attractive to want to make
it easier to use the dodger opening on all points of sail. I learned from
the bad experiences of several SM 53 owners on this issue that, once again,
the more peculiar something on an Amel seems, all the more reason to leave
it exactly as it was designed. I am happy to discuss this with you if you
feel the need. All you good folks who have moved the attachment on your SM
53 main sheet forward, please, move it back!



All the best,

Joel



Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

I was thinking of having a Jib halyard clutch fitted to the main mast to free up the main winch on that side - like the mizzen halyard. Does anyone have any experience doing this or know of any problems with this.

Thanks

Andrew
Ronpische, SM472
Port Leucate

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up on your offer to send the details. Our email address is Colin.cruisingpoint@... .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia
On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

Ian,

I heard that the water maker guy in Marmaris, Turkey machined some stainless steel endcaps for someone.

You might drop Riza at Emek Marine (Turkey Amel Rep and Dessalator Rep) an email and ask if he can do this in his machine shop...they are masters with stainless and have a very large machine shop. I will be there tomorrow and I have a full set of used endcaps I can give him for a pattern. His email is cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

If he can do this, maybe more of us would be interested.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Anchored near Gocek, Turkey

For the third time now, one of the membrane end caps has sprung a leak on my 160 l/h water maker. I only noticed this when hunting for some grease to give to another boat as the far end of the membranes is close to the portside hull. Some some storage boxes kept in that area were full of salt water. As before, the leak has occurred where the steel cross tube enters the end caps. This push fit arrangement seems at best amateurish and Dessalator are well aware of the problem for when I ordered new caps from them the last time, they said that the new black material would not fail. Sadly not.

I think it's time to get something more robust made to cure this problem. End caps with proper screw fittings and a connecting hose or pipe come to mind. Has anyone done this or maybe found ready made caps that will do the job please?

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Northern Sporades

In the course of thoroughly inspecting Kimberlite , I noticed that the
bracket on the boom that the main sheet block hangs from was cracked inside
the boom.



The brackets attached to the underside of the boom are in a track in the
boom.

The screws that hold them in are threaded through the bracket and just sit
in non threaded holes in the boom. The shear of the bolts holds them in
place.

Unfortunately the screws were bent in the boom and the bracket itself was
split inside the boom.

The holes in the boom were elongated from the stress.

I finally had to resort to using a 10 mm drill bit to drill out the screws.
I used that big bit as it is the size of the initial hole in the bracket.

After successfully removing the screws, the split bracket inside the boom
prevented the bracket from moving more than 25 mm. Unfortunately the
aluminum in the track is thin and I was finally able to use caveman tactics
to remove the bracket. Unfortunately the upper portion of the track was
torn about 5 inches.



The new bracket from Amel uses allen head screws versus flat head screws.

I plan on installing the new bracket forward of the damaged area and then
sliding into the track a 7 inch long aluminum plate which I will bolt to
the upper side of the track and to the damaged area to reinforce the boom.



I would suggest that you carefully examine these brackets.

I would love to know if anyone else has seen or experienced this problem.



Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1824 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!

Hi all,
another thing to think of is the SM has a 1000 litre water tank. If you leave the boat with the fresh water pump turned on (but stopped because of the pressure switch) and a leak develops some where while you are away you will get 1000 litres of nice fresh water in the engine room.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl


________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 13 August 2013 1:59 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Marina mains water and fresh water pump

 
John,

Water flow at 40psi through 3/4" hose/pipe is about 300 liters/minute.. How long would it take a burst hose or broken hose clamp in the watertight engine room to cause the filling the engine room, assuming that the automatic bilge pump will pump out at 75 liters/minute? I think my flow calculations are fairly accurate.

I have thought about this because I know some people connect directly to their water system, but decided that I would put a few more hours on my pump rather than risk filling the engine room.

I am not trying to be critical of your method, but since you put this out there, I wanted to say something about the downside. Some people might follow your method without thinking about the downside.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently anchored near Fethiye, Turkey

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Our freshwater pump is a 40 psi Jabsco which is fine. The plumbing is all on one circuit so the pressure tank behind the generator gets pressurised by the Jabsco. Mains water is normally much cheaper than watermaker water so we switch off the Jabsco and connect the hose in the cockpit locker to the mains hose which then supplies the boat without spoiling the water in our tank. If we want drinking water we turn off the stopcock in the cockpit locker, turn on the Jabsco and run off some water in the galley first. Not sure that this would be safe in the rare marina with very high pressure mains and at any event we turn off the mains before leaving the boat.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Marsala, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Mark,

For information:
They don't sell AMFA or REYA

Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

John,

Water flow at 40psi through 3/4" hose/pipe is about 300 liters/minute. How long would it take a burst hose or broken hose clamp in the watertight engine room to cause the filling the engine room, assuming that the automatic bilge pump will pump out at 75 liters/minute? I think my flow calculations are fairly accurate.

I have thought about this because I know some people connect directly to their water system, but decided that I would put a few more hours on my pump rather than risk filling the engine room.

I am not trying to be critical of your method, but since you put this out there, I wanted to say something about the downside. Some people might follow your method without thinking about the downside.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently anchored near Fethiye, Turkey

Hi Phil,

I have run into the same problem! Very frustrating indeed!!! Could you please be more specific as to which sikaflex product you used. There are a great number of them so the exact brand number you used successfully would be a great help.

Thanks!!

Tom Fisher
"Sheila" Sharki #142
Kingston, Ontario, Canada


Tom Fisher RRT
Research Coordinator
Asthma Research Unit,
Queen's University
102 Stuart St.
Kingston,ON., K7L 2V6
613-549-6666 ext 2798
P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail



________________________________
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of phil.berghmans
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 03:26
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Glue for vinyl headlining



Hello,

We have redone our headlining four years ago on my santorin 94.Took off the old vinyl cleaned it properly with brush and vacume cleaner.Started with a 3m spray kind of glue they use for carpets and stuff.Was very expensive and fell off after one month in the heat of the med ans canaries.Redone the whole thing with a cheap polyurethane sikaflex . One applieing with the gun the other spreading the stuff pieces of half a meter no more .Then reglueing the vinyl and hold/support for couple off minutes and done! You get more handy in it ass you go along.Now after three years in the tropics (cabo verde,carib) everything is still ok .Cheap and good solution.Iff you want more info .Send me a message.

Kind regards

phil

miles ahead
--- In amelyachtowners@...<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "ullaroo" <roo@...> wrote:

Hello,

We are in process of replacing the headliner in our 35 year old Euros. After consultation with our foam backed vinyl supplier Hawke House we also found the 3M 80 neoprene based spray glue the closest match to the glue they have successfully used in England. We ended up using the 3M 80 spray on foam backed vinyl and 3M 1300L brushed on fiberglass. Up to now we have finished the fore cabin and result looks satisfactory. One catch is that both these glues are pretty fast drying so you have to work fast especially with larger surfaces and in higher temperatures. Truth will come out in few years.

Regards,
Roo & Ullar on Euros41 #250

--- In amelyachtowners@...<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@> wrote:

There were some posts recently about spray adhesive for fixing vinyl headlining. Hopefully the following links are useful for those with headlining problems and trying to find the right glue.

Although some different ones may work, choosing the best one is not easy (some shops seem to just recommend what they have in stock as the perfect one).

I have previously used 3M General Trim Adhesive 08088 (was recommended) but it needs redoing in a few areas after a very hot summer. This adhesive is not listed on the brochure link below, I think due to using different marketing for auto and industrial markets. That adhesive seems to have worked fine on Naugasoft but not as well on a different brand of vinyl (maybe different types of plasticisers?) Another 3M auto adhesive is Super Trim Adhesive 08090 which is promoted as having resistance to plasticisers. This one sounds the same as 3M 90 High Strength.

According to the 3M links below Rubber and Vinyl 80 looks best. It has better heat resistance when the deck gets hot compared to High Strength Adhesive.

John, Maramu #91

Link for brochure showing different 3M spray adhesives

http://solutions.3m.com.au/3MContentRetrievalAPI/BlobServlet?lmd=1266458338000&locale=en_AU&assetType=MMM_Image&assetId=1258562304068&blobAttribute=ImageFile

Link for 3M spray adhesive 80

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Rubber-And-Vinyl-80-Spray-Adhesive-Yellow-24-fl-oz-Aerosol-Net-weight-19-oz-6-cans-per-case?N=4294933057+5000130&Nr=AND%28hrcy_id%3AN23ZLBTF6Hgs_Z6P37PTRPV_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv%29&rt=d

Link for 3M Super Trim Adhesive brochure

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSufSevTsZxtUnxm9mY_ZevUqevTSevTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=STA08090_Instruc_Feature.pdf&cshift_ck=null&client_id=752nw09202

Our freshwater pump is a 40 psi Jabsco which is fine. The plumbing is all on one circuit so the pressure tank behind the generator gets pressurised by the Jabsco. Mains water is normally much cheaper than watermaker water so we switch off the Jabsco and connect the hose in the cockpit locker to the mains hose which then supplies the boat without spoiling the water in our tank. If we want drinking water we turn off the stopcock in the cockpit locker, turn on the Jabsco and run off some water in the galley first. Not sure that this would be safe in the rare marina with very high pressure mains and at any event we turn off the mains before leaving the boat.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Marsala, Sicily

Hello,

We have redone our headlining four years ago on my santorin 94.Took off the old vinyl cleaned it properly with brush and vacume cleaner.Started with a 3m spray kind of glue they use for carpets and stuff.Was very expensive and fell off after one month in the heat of the med ans canaries.Redone the whole thing with a cheap polyurethane sikaflex . One applieing with the gun the other spreading the stuff pieces of half a meter no more .Then reglueing the vinyl and hold/support for couple off minutes and done! You get more handy in it ass you go along.Now after three years in the tropics (cabo verde,carib) everything is still ok .Cheap and good solution.Iff you want more info .Send me a message.

Kind regards

phil

miles ahead