Date   

Re: [Amel] B & G Hydra 2000 - Wind Speed stopped working?

Dennis woods
 

Had the same problem, paddle wheel stuck. Brought the unit down, striped and cleaned, put back up. Two years ago, no problems since. Can't remember what I did but it was quick and easy and involved mild soapy water.
Happy sails
Dennis
Il flauto magico smk 408
On 15 Aug 2013, at 00:20, "islandpearl2_sm2k332" <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

We have Hydra 2000 system and our B&G Wind Speed has suddenly stopped working this week. Wind direction etc is reading fine but no speed suddenly on last outing. Our neighbour in the marina had reported that birds have recently taken a liking to perching on top of our mast instruments so this is possibly what caused the problem, however wind direction instrument is still fine and I can see the wind speed spinning correctly on the mast top. Any ideas before we go down the replacement route?
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane, Australia


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] B & G Hydra 2000 - Wind Speed stopped working?

Mike Johnson
 

Hi Colin,
 
There is some useful information in the files section from Bill.  Also check out the B & G website:
http://www.bandg.com/Support/faq/

Your masthead unit is probably the 213 and I have you a file for checking this from the junction box located behind the panel abeam the forward heads where the main mast wiring is located.

Best wishes

Mike & Peta

Solitude
SM2K #461


________________________________
From: islandpearl2_sm2k332 <colin.d.streeter@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 14 August 2013, 23:20
Subject: [Amel] B & G Hydra 2000 - Wind Speed stopped working?


 

We have Hydra 2000 system and our B&G Wind Speed has suddenly stopped working this week. Wind direction etc is reading fine but no speed suddenly on last outing. Our neighbour in the marina had reported that birds have recently taken a liking to perching on top of our mast instruments so this is possibly what caused the problem, however wind direction instrument is still fine and I can see the wind speed spinning correctly on the mast top. Any ideas before we go down the replacement route?
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane, Australia




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Prop Shaft Seals & Wearing bearing replacement & ZF Gearbox Seawater Cooler

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

Gary,

I am pretty sure it is te same cooler as we have the same tranny,

Measure the hose from the sea chest. It should be 30 mm.

Here is a data page from bowman. You can compare measurements to your unit.

Mine was a dc60 xcc

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





http://www.ejbowman.co.uk/pdf/DC_Oil_Coolers_-_Iss_J.pdf





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 5:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Prop Shaft Seals & Wearing bearing replacement & ZF
Gearbox Seawater Cooler







Colin & Lauren:

Thank you so much for your post. I believe you have done a great service for
this group in providing a description of your experience and the repairs
rendered. Your suggestion to more carefully monitor the transmission fluid
is very valuable.

As a final verification could you please confirm that your transmission oil
cooler was this one as described by Eric of Kimberlite:

" The DC60 with the 3367 end caps. With 3/8 bspp threads "

I am most interested in verifying the 3/8 bspp (British Straight Parallel
Pipe Thread). Since your boat is 3 serial numbers from mine I am assuming
that our two boats are similarly equipped. I plan on replacing my cooler as
preventative maintenance.

Thanks,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM #335
on the hard at Jolly Harbor, Antigua

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:



Thanks again to all on this site for your assistance.

To close this topic off (HELP - AMEL DRIVE) Island Pearl II is back on the
water and after a solid 3 days of testing after her annual haul out, we are
very pleased with the results.



2)The gearbox problem which struck on the same outing, ie. would not
engage gear once the gearbox had warmed up, simply revs away with no
propulsion fwd or rev.(very scary in a tight situation!).. was exactly as
Trevor had described. The problem turned out to be a failure in the gearbox
seawater oil cooler unit where the internal copper pipes had corroded
through and seawater was getting into the gearbox oil causing it to become
milky in colour and soft/fuzzy so could not exert enough pressure to push
the gears into fwd or rev...After talking to ZF Hurth in Australia they put
us onto their local supplier in Australia for replacement gearbox oil
coolers who came out and tested the old unit then built a new replacement
which we found pretty straightforward & simply to re-install ourselves
followed by 5 sets of flushing through with new ATF gear oil to ensure
absolutely all residual moisture was extracted. ZF and local mechanics have
told us that such oil coolers are prone to this failure over time (our
original Yanmar 75 has only 1480hrs now)and this is a pretty common problem.
Luckily again (since I had not been motoring the boat for so long and always
check my oils befor each outing) we caught this problem immediately after
the failure so there was no gearbox damage but it is perhaps a warning for
others to do regular checks of the colour of the oil in the gearbox to
ensure no seawater contamination.

In summary it is nothing but a pleasure working on problems on the Amel
Super Maramu since this site is so helpful and Amel really do have such
practical and well thought out systems which are dead easy to maintain &
repair locally. Interestingly Amel themselves (Maud) have also been most
helpful and responsive too in air freighting parts out promptly.

Fair Winds
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM2K # 332
Brisbane, Australia



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Re: [Amel] Air con

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Kent. The strainer is the salt water strainer. And of course the air filters the keep some of the dust and stuff out. We use cheese cloth as air filters they work very well.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Full brokerage and service for all yachts
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 14, 2013, at 17:58, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

When you say strainer, are you talking about the filter that filters air as it comes into the unit, K ENT
SM243 KRISTY
On Aug 14, 2013, at 3:53 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:

Had the same problem with forward cabin.

Just as Richard said, I need to run at high speed.
Actually for me was a combination of high speed or not as cold.

In Texas water (very hot) I have to clean the strainer every week, every 5 days would probably be better.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/14/13, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Air con
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2013, 12:02 PM


























Keep the fan running at high speed and check to the
strainer to be sure it is clean.



Regards

Richard Piller

Fairbanks Yacht Group llc

Full service brokerage

Cell 603 767 5330



On Aug 14, 2013, at 12:33, "ya_fohi" <sharongbrown@...>
wrote:



Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner units
icing up

It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main
cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Air con

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Personally, I was talking about the "sea water" strainer in the engine room.
I had one of the diruptor (breakers) on the 220 Volt panel that recently broke, because the compressor was working too hard (since the strainer had lots of algees, due to the now warm water).


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/14/13, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Air con
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2013, 4:58 PM
















 









When you say strainer, are you talking about the
filter that filters air as it comes into the unit, K ENT

SM243 KRISTY
On Aug 14, 2013, at 3:53 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
wrote:



> Had the same problem with forward cabin.

>

> Just as Richard said, I need to run at high speed.

> Actually for me was a combination of high speed or not
as cold.

>

> In Texas water (very hot) I have to clean the strainer
every week, every 5 days would probably be better.

>

> Sincerely, Alexandre

> SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

> Seabrook, Texas, USA

>

> --------------------------------------------

> On Wed, 8/14/13, Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
wrote:

>

> Subject: Re: [Amel] Air con

> To: "amelyachtowners@..."
<amelyachtowners@...>

> Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2013, 12:02 PM

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Keep the fan running at high speed and check to the

> strainer to be sure it is clean.

>

>

>

> Regards

>

> Richard Piller

>

> Fairbanks Yacht Group llc

>

> Full service brokerage

>

> Cell 603 767 5330

>

>

>

> On Aug 14, 2013, at 12:33, "ya_fohi" <sharongbrown@...>

> wrote:

>

>

>

> Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner
units

> icing up

>

> It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main

> cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>


B & G Hydra 2000 - Wind Speed stopped working?

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

We have Hydra 2000 system and our B&G Wind Speed has suddenly stopped working this week. Wind direction etc is reading fine but no speed suddenly on last outing. Our neighbour in the marina had reported that birds have recently taken a liking to perching on top of our mast instruments so this is possibly what caused the problem, however wind direction instrument is still fine and I can see the wind speed spinning correctly on the mast top. Any ideas before we go down the replacement route?
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane, Australia


Re: [Amel] Air con

karkauai
 

When you say strainer, are you talking about the filter that filters air as it comes into the unit, K ENT
SM243 KRISTY
On Aug 14, 2013, at 3:53 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:

Had the same problem with forward cabin.

Just as Richard said, I need to run at high speed.
Actually for me was a combination of high speed or not as cold.

In Texas water (very hot) I have to clean the strainer every week, every 5 days would probably be better.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/14/13, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Air con
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2013, 12:02 PM


























Keep the fan running at high speed and check to the
strainer to be sure it is clean.



Regards

Richard Piller

Fairbanks Yacht Group llc

Full service brokerage

Cell 603 767 5330



On Aug 14, 2013, at 12:33, "ya_fohi" <sharongbrown@...>
wrote:



Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner units
icing up

It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main
cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Prop Shaft Seals & Wearing bearing replacement & ZF Gearbox Seawater Cooler

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Colin & Lauren:

Thank you so much for your post. I believe you have done a great service for this group in providing a description of your experience and the repairs rendered. Your suggestion to more carefully monitor the transmission fluid is very valuable.

As a final verification could you please confirm that your transmission oil cooler was this one as described by Eric of Kimberlite:

" The DC60 with the 3367 end caps. With 3/8 bspp threads "

I am most interested in verifying the 3/8 bspp (British Straight Parallel Pipe Thread). Since your boat is 3 serial numbers from mine I am assuming that our two boats are similarly equipped. I plan on replacing my cooler as preventative maintenance.

Thanks,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM #335
on the hard at Jolly Harbor, Antigua

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "islandpearl2_sm2k332" <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:



Thanks again to all on this site for your assistance.

To close this topic off (HELP - AMEL DRIVE) Island Pearl II is back on the water and after a solid 3 days of testing after her annual haul out, we are very pleased with the results.



2)The gearbox problem which struck on the same outing, ie. would not engage gear once the gearbox had warmed up, simply revs away with no propulsion fwd or rev.(very scary in a tight situation!).. was exactly as Trevor had described. The problem turned out to be a failure in the gearbox seawater oil cooler unit where the internal copper pipes had corroded through and seawater was getting into the gearbox oil causing it to become milky in colour and soft/fuzzy so could not exert enough pressure to push the gears into fwd or rev...After talking to ZF Hurth in Australia they put us onto their local supplier in Australia for replacement gearbox oil coolers who came out and tested the old unit then built a new replacement which we found pretty straightforward & simply to re-install ourselves followed by 5 sets of flushing through with new ATF gear oil to ensure absolutely all residual moisture was extracted. ZF and local mechanics have told us that such oil coolers are prone to this failure over time (our original Yanmar 75 has only 1480hrs now)and this is a pretty common problem. Luckily again (since I had not been motoring the boat for so long and always check my oils befor each outing) we caught this problem immediately after the failure so there was no gearbox damage but it is perhaps a warning for others to do regular checks of the colour of the oil in the gearbox to ensure no seawater contamination.

In summary it is nothing but a pleasure working on problems on the Amel Super Maramu since this site is so helpful and Amel really do have such practical and well thought out systems which are dead easy to maintain & repair locally. Interestingly Amel themselves (Maud) have also been most helpful and responsive too in air freighting parts out promptly.

Fair Winds
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM2K # 332
Brisbane, Australia


Re: [Amel] Air con

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Had the same problem with forward cabin.

Just as Richard said, I need to run at high speed.
Actually for me was a combination of high speed or not as cold.

In Texas water (very hot) I have to clean the strainer every week, every 5 days would probably be better.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 8/14/13, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Air con
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2013, 12:02 PM
















 









Keep the fan running at high speed and check to the
strainer to be sure it is clean.



Regards

Richard Piller

Fairbanks Yacht Group llc

Full service brokerage

Cell 603 767 5330



On Aug 14, 2013, at 12:33, "ya_fohi" <sharongbrown@...>
wrote:



Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner units
icing up

It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main
cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

kimberlite@...
 

That is the ground connect solenoid for STARTING the engine,
Look for a small relay from yanmar near the starting solenoid.
Eric

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Shepherd
Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 1:13 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem
To: amelyachtowners@...

OK thanks Eric.I have changed the main solenoid with the rubber
covered
stop button, but it had no effect.

Good luck with the surgery.

Ian SM414 Crusader (2003)

On 14/08/2013 08:16, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the
ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I
left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years ,
however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid
(valeo)
with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe
that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but
I think
that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the
wiring> diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
] On Behalf Of Ian
Shepherd> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a
resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to
take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in.
Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion
problem> in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it
all
together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...


[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

] On Behalf Of
Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...


Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to
take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@...


.
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd

wrote:
For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar
100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red
stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring
you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but
it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and
incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same
problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like
a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off
unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with
marine
trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete
shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to
get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be
available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using
two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop
button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the
ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big
improvement.> > >
If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let
me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



_____

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SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Amel] Air con

karkauai
 

Check filter first. Sounds like refrigerant could be low.
Kent
SM243
On Aug 14, 2013, at 12:33 PM, "ya_fohi" <sharongbrown@...> wrote:

Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner units icing up
It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


B & G Depth Sounder Problem

Ian Shepherd
 

Of late my B & G depth sounder seems reluctant to start up when sailing into shallow waters. The 4 floating bars on the Hydra remain stationary and no depth is acquired. Switching the power off then on always cures the problem, but this is an annoyance to me as it also de-powers my AIS transponder and its GPS receiver which feeds all my navigation programs, losing the yachts position at a critical time. Once the Hydra has been rebooted the sounder works fine up to depths of almost 200M so I don't think it's the transducer or the receiver gain.

Has anyone else had this problem and could advise of a fix please?

Ian Shepherd Sm 414 (2003) Crusader Greece


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Ian Shepherd
 

OK thanks Eric.I have changed the main solenoid with the rubber covered
stop button, but it had no effect.

Good luck with the surgery.

Ian SM414 Crusader (2003)

On 14/08/2013 08:16, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo)
with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think
that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all
together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@...
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine
trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean





_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Rink,

I too changed the solenoid mounted on the engine too but it had no
effect. I have exhaustedly checked the red stop button and there is no
problem with it. Yanmar agents that I have spoken too all say that if
the battery is located too far from the engine, then a long cable run is
often the cause. On the Amel SM the cable run is not short, but not all
of us have the problem.

My modification works fine as long as you are happy to wait for up to 40
seconds for the engine to stop. You only have to touch the red stop
button and then let go. A panel mounted LED confirms that shut down is
in process. The irritating thing is that sometimes it stops immediately.
One can run a good sweepstake game betting on how long it will take!

It's not only Amel Yanmar owners that have this problem, so the fault
would appear to lie with Yanmar rather than anything Amel have done. It
would seem from what has been posted that several things can cause the
problem. Overall the design of the shut down system seems far too fragile.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader -Alonisos Island Northern Sporades Greece

On 14/08/2013 08:34, Rink de Haan wrote:

I had the same problem when we bought Razor's Edge 5 years ago. I had
to stop the engine sometimes using the rubber switch under the
solenoid switch. After a while also the solenoid switch didn't work
properly anymore.
I did two things: I replaced the solenoid switch which I bought in
Turkey for about EUR60 and I replaced the red stop button. When I
removed the stop button I noticed that it was broken inside which was
the real cause of the problem.

Rink de Haan
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition
to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the
boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid
(valeo) with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that
was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I
think that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem





Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all
together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP
engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop
button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to
hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit
located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with
marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available
if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off
resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know
and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Air con

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Keep the fan running at high speed and check to the strainer to be sure it is clean.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Full service brokerage
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 14, 2013, at 12:33, "ya_fohi" <sharongbrown@...> wrote:

Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner units icing up
It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler) correction

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

The DC60 with the 3367 end caps. With 3/8 bspp threads

Is the correct one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@...
<mailto:sales%40heatexchangershop.com> ]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler

Eric,

Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.

Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.

DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks

See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.

Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fax: 1-617-924-7271

E-mail: rbangs@... <mailto:rbangs%40heatexchangershop.com>


Website: www.heatexchangershop.com

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 10:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)

Does anyone have a good source for the transmission oil cooler for the 100
Turbo Yanmar? Make, Model & Price.

Eric, I think I remember you saying that you were buying one or going to buy
one. Did you and where?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not
'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you
help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV
BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in
gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need
checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the
culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the
prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that
just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top
was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+
revs
to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia





_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
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Springs in wearing out bearing--AGAIN

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Joel and all

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
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Try a free scan!


Re: [Amel] Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

The DC60 with the 3367 end caps.

Is the correct one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite













From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fax: 1-617-924-7271

E-mail: rbangs@...

Website: www.heatexchangershop.com







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 10:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)





Does anyone have a good source for the transmission oil cooler for the 100
Turbo Yanmar? Make, Model & Price.

Eric, I think I remember you saying that you were buying one or going to buy
one. Did you and where?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not
'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you
help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV
BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in
gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need
checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the
culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the
prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that
just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top
was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+
revs
to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia





_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1751 of my spam emails to date.

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<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
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Air con

ya_fohi
 

Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner units icing up
It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.


Re: Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)

seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
 

Bill,
The original cooler is made by www.ejbowman.co.uk.
Regards,
Trevor
Seafever

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Does anyone have a good source for the transmission oil cooler for the 100 Turbo Yanmar? Make, Model & Price.

Eric, I think I remember you saying that you were buying one or going to buy one. Did you and where?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not 'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@ <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in
gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need
checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the
culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the
prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that
just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs
to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia





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