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Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
karkauai
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 22, 2013, at 4:42 PM, "Mark Erdos" < mcerdos@...> wrote:
Kent, I do not flush the watermaker with tank water. I just run it every two weeks or less. Best regards, Mark SM2K #275 www.creampuff.us Thanks Mark, for your thorough explanation of your fresh water maintenance plan. I do think a big part of my tank contamination was leaving the tank half full for many months. Like you I'm not convinced that a charcoal filter removes all chlorine, but several folks seem to feel that is perfectly acceptable to flush the membranes with water run thru a filter...,and have had good success with that system. So, if you don't flush with tank water, what do you flush with?
On Oct 22, 2013, at 12:47 PM, "Mark Erdos" <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Eric, I use chlorine bleach as a wash about every 3-4 months, or so. I think every 6 months would suffice. I put 2 gallons of high concentrate bleach in the tank and leave overnight and then empty it (I empty with the fresh water pump and anchor chain wash). I then flush the tank once by filling it up and emptying again. I also hose out the tank from the accessible central chamber with a dockside water hose. When we first purchased Cream Puff, there was a little mold in the tank. The bleach removed it. Since I have been on this system, the tank has stayed clean. We also top off the tank before leaving the boat (I read somewhere it is best to leave it full or completely dry). Once we had the tank mold and slime free, we took a sample of our water to the county for testing. We were told it was of good quality. Some counties will run a test for you, some will not. We were not charged for this and they did it while we waited. It is also a good idea to open all your faucets if you are flushing your tank with bleach. This way your plumbing is also growth free. If you have mold in your plumbing, it will grow backward into the water tank. If you do this be sure to rinse the lines until you are certain they are free of chlorine. We have 2 water makers. We run the French one every 2 weeks when we are in clean water. The water is either added to the tank or sent to the bilge depending on where we are when we run it. The engine driven water maker is pickled. I would not use the fresh water from the tank to flush the membranes as we use bleach in the tanks. My thought being ANY amount of bleach on the membrane is going to either ruin it or shorten the lifespan. Also, we fill the tank with dockside water at the marina and they have chlorine in the city water. I would not trust a charcoal filter to remove all chlorine. I believe you would need a series of filters and thus it is cost prohibitive. We filter our dockside water before it goes into our tank. We use an RV filter: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40631-Premium-Water-Filter/dp/B00523AMBC We also keep a separate hose for filling our tank with dockside water. This hose is stored dry and not just laid on the dock. This ensures nothing grows in the hose. We use the Seagull filter for drinking water and making ice. We change the filter when the water slows down. We did not have this on our previous boats and the water was just fine. So, this might be a little overkill. But, we figure it can’t hurt. Some people will put 1 cap full of bleach per 100 gals of water in the tank. Since we have no problems, I do not do this. If we continued to have issues, I would add the bleach until resolved. I have note known anyone to use hydrogen peroxide. We have used our bleaching system successfully on our last two boats. Hope this helps. Best regards, Mark SM2K #275 www.creampuff.us
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Re: [Amel] Amel part - what is it?
karkauai
Hi Deb, You can't attach photos to email postings...you'll have to post a pic in the photos section. Is it by any chance a bullet shaped piece with a line attached to the nose? If so it's the tool used to remove the bow thruster while in the water. If not post a pic and someone will know. Kent SM 243 Kristy Brunswick GA USA
On Oct 22, 2013, at 4:25 PM, Deb Winther < wintherdeb@...> wrote:
Does anyonne know what this wooden piece is for? (see attached photo) It's been over a year since we've owned our Amel SM yet we still cannot figure out its function.
Thanks
s/v Coriandre
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
Mark Erdos
Kent, I do not flush the watermaker with tank water. I just run it every two weeks or less. Best regards, Mark SM2K #275 www.creampuff.us
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 4:39 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks Thanks Mark, for your thorough explanation of your fresh water maintenance plan. I do think a big part of my tank contamination was leaving the tank half full for many months. Like you I'm not convinced that a charcoal filter removes all chlorine, but several folks seem to feel that is perfectly acceptable to flush the membranes with water run thru a filter...,and have had good success with that system. So, if you don't flush with tank water, what do you flush with?
On Oct 22, 2013, at 12:47 PM, "Mark Erdos" <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Eric, I use chlorine bleach as a wash about every 3-4 months, or so. I think every 6 months would suffice. I put 2 gallons of high concentrate bleach in the tank and leave overnight and then empty it (I empty with the fresh water pump and anchor chain wash). I then flush the tank once by filling it up and emptying again. I also hose out the tank from the accessible central chamber with a dockside water hose. When we first purchased Cream Puff, there was a little mold in the tank. The bleach removed it. Since I have been on this system, the tank has stayed clean. We also top off the tank before leaving the boat (I read somewhere it is best to leave it full or completely dry). Once we had the tank mold and slime free, we took a sample of our water to the county for testing. We were told it was of good quality. Some counties will run a test for you, some will not. We were not charged for this and they did it while we waited. It is also a good idea to open all your faucets if you are flushing your tank with bleach. This way your plumbing is also growth free. If you have mold in your plumbing, it will grow backward into the water tank. If you do this be sure to rinse the lines until you are certain they are free of chlorine. We have 2 water makers. We run the French one every 2 weeks when we are in clean water. The water is either added to the tank or sent to the bilge depending on where we are when we run it. The engine driven water maker is pickled. I would not use the fresh water from the tank to flush the membranes as we use bleach in the tanks. My thought being ANY amount of bleach on the membrane is going to either ruin it or shorten the lifespan. Also, we fill the tank with dockside water at the marina and they have chlorine in the city water. I would not trust a charcoal filter to remove all chlorine. I believe you would need a series of filters and thus it is cost prohibitive. We filter our dockside water before it goes into our tank. We use an RV filter: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40631-Premium-Water-Filter/dp/B00523AMBC We also keep a separate hose for filling our tank with dockside water. This hose is stored dry and not just laid on the dock. This ensures nothing grows in the hose. We use the Seagull filter for drinking water and making ice. We change the filter when the water slows down. We did not have this on our previous boats and the water was just fine. So, this might be a little overkill. But, we figure it can’t hurt. Some people will put 1 cap full of bleach per 100 gals of water in the tank. Since we have no problems, I do not do this. If we continued to have issues, I would add the bleach until resolved. I have note known anyone to use hydrogen peroxide. We have used our bleaching system successfully on our last two boats. Hope this helps. Best regards, Mark SM2K #275 www.creampuff.us
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Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
karkauai
Thanks Mark, for your thorough explanation of your fresh water maintenance plan. I do think a big part of my tank contamination was leaving the tank half full for many months. Like you I'm not convinced that a charcoal filter removes all chlorine, but several folks seem to feel that is perfectly acceptable to flush the membranes with water run thru a filter...,and have had good success with that system. So, if you don't flush with tank water, what do you flush with?
Thanks again Kent Sm243 Kristy
On Oct 22, 2013, at 12:47 PM, "Mark Erdos" < mcerdos@...> wrote:
Eric, I use chlorine bleach as a wash about every 3-4 months, or so. I think every 6 months would suffice. I put 2 gallons of high concentrate bleach in the tank and leave overnight and then empty it (I empty with the fresh water pump and anchor chain wash). I then flush the tank once by filling it up and emptying again. I also hose out the tank from the accessible central chamber with a dockside water hose. When we first purchased Cream Puff, there was a little mold in the tank. The bleach removed it. Since I have been on this system, the tank has stayed clean. We also top off the tank before leaving the boat (I read somewhere it is best to leave it full or completely dry). Once we had the tank mold and slime free, we took a sample of our water to the county for testing. We were told it was of good quality. Some counties will run a test for you, some will not. We were not charged for this and they did it while we waited. It is also a good idea to open all your faucets if you are flushing your tank with bleach. This way your plumbing is also growth free. If you have mold in your plumbing, it will grow backward into the water tank. If you do this be sure to rinse the lines until you are certain they are free of chlorine. We have 2 water makers. We run the French one every 2 weeks when we are in clean water. The water is either added to the tank or sent to the bilge depending on where we are when we run it. The engine driven water maker is pickled. I would not use the fresh water from the tank to flush the membranes as we use bleach in the tanks. My thought being ANY amount of bleach on the membrane is going to either ruin it or shorten the lifespan. Also, we fill the tank with dockside water at the marina and they have chlorine in the city water. I would not trust a charcoal filter to remove all chlorine. I believe you would need a series of filters and thus it is cost prohibitive. We filter our dockside water before it goes into our tank. We use an RV filter: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40631-Premium-Water-Filter/dp/B00523AMBC We also keep a separate hose for filling our tank with dockside water. This hose is stored dry and not just laid on the dock. This ensures nothing grows in the hose. We use the Seagull filter for drinking water and making ice. We change the filter when the water slows down. We did not have this on our previous boats and the water was just fine. So, this might be a little overkill. But, we figure it can’t hurt. Some people will put 1 cap full of bleach per 100 gals of water in the tank. Since we have no problems, I do not do this. If we continued to have issues, I would add the bleach until resolved. I have note known anyone to use hydrogen peroxide. We have used our bleaching system successfully on our last two boats. Hope this helps. Best regards, Mark SM2K #275 www.creampuff.us
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Deb Winther <wintherdeb@...>
Does anyonne know what this wooden piece is for? (see attached photo) It's been over a year since we've owned our Amel SM yet we still cannot figure out its function.
Thanks
s/v Coriandre
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Amel] AMEL MANGO and OLD VIDEO
Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
You can get an SM... bottom of the price range mind you... for that amount of money.
For instance, I have a friend who has an early SM (1990). It is in pristine condition but the first owner changed the dual 90 degree gearbox to a standard shaft drive when Amels had numerous failures of this complex gearbox system. Makes the boat non standard but you don't have a 10 K cost to replace the GB. (The system is very well engineered as the PO was a Swiss mechanical engineer) Has Perkins Sabre.
The boat has many expensive upgrades including a white "full flower" leather upholstery throughout, two proper double beds in bow and stern rather than the interesting Amel proposal, a completely redone interior with white headliner and LED lighting throughout. Decks all redone, solar panels, big davits, complete canvas enclosure etc NICEST SM I have ever seen or sailed on. Quality wise, I would say it is as good as Bill's BeBe SM2K.... and we all know about how good/knowledgeable Bill is with his boat maintenance!!!!
It is for sale at €200K.. no faffers please. Not listed anywhere.
Me = arms length. I know its a lovely boat and as well maintained as my own (now gone) old boat.
Send me an email if interested. He left Majorca today for Costa Brava ... = his house.
Jean-Pierre ( boatless for the moment)
On 22 Oct 2013, at 20:27, Stephanie DiBelardino < stephiedib@...> wrote:
Stephanie DiBelardino
Henri's old boat is for sale in Ft Lauderdale. I looked at it, but had to be careful to not step on any rat crap. The boat was a mess.
There is one mango for sale (renissance is the boat name) i hear it is in great shape and much cheaper than the price you are currently looking at
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote: Hi All,
Thank you for your inputs. Regarding Nirvana rigging it
seems that two spreaders mast can be associated with in mast furling only. Yesterday I was on Mango # 66/87 which is for sale. It is
nice, clean and maintained unit with original cover fabrics, running rigging,
sails and electronics. I liked the vessel very much, but I can see in addition to
purchase price around 50k € costs to outfit the boat for blue water cruising –
to bring it up to date. As the boat is on sale for over 2 years and owner is
fixed with the price, I am wondering whether cca 150k € purchase price (170k €
set price) + outfit costs aren’t too much for a 25 y.o. boat where plenty of
gizmo’s is up to be expected. I.e. Yesterday on the test, during the engine startup
its vibrations did break the main power cable tired clamp on the Battery bank
so the boat lost the power source completely. Owner, his friend and I did
locate a problem and did fix this within 20 minutes, what I like to do very much;
but the question remains …
Thank you for your help so far,
T ---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote: Dear friend, look at this link on the french website of Amel's owners: http://www.forum-voiliers-amel.net/dossiers/heimana.pdf. It regards a Mango owned by mr Amel personnaly and with he sailed the last years of his life. Paolo s/y "Ilarica"
Sharki nr 174
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote: Another suggestion, look at Amel Santorin. fair winds Mike & Chris s/v Akwaaba, santorin sloop no023
Hi Tadej
as a long time SM owner (since 1995 same boat) and several atlantic crossing, I'm glad to give you my input concerning your question:
"Is the boat rolling on long ocean waves going downwind as it is quite narrow for its length?" Not so much, specially with the genua and balloner rolled out with the two poles the boat is well stabilized.
80 hp enough ? Yes ! Speed in flat water, no head wind, clean bottom and fix prop: 8.4 kn with 2800 rpm, 7.5 kn with 2300 rpm, 6 kn with 1900 rpm
( Max speed anyway: 2.43 * SQR 12.60 = 8.6 kn )
Hope that helps
regards
Hanspeter
SM # 16 Tamango 2
----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----
Von : tadej.mezek@...
Datum : 17/10/2013 - 10:46 (UTC)
An : amelyachtowners@...
Betreff : [Amel] AMEL MANGO and OLD VIDEO
Hi all,
I am looking for some data over the older model AMEL MANGO and would like to get as much information as possible; there is quite scarcity of data on internet available.
I found a nice page http://amelsupermaramu.blogspot.com/ on which there is an old 45 minutes long video of factory tour (must be from 80-ties) - and Mango shown on production line.
Can anyone advise me on the Nirvana rigging; I found some Mango models for sale which have two spreaders main mast as well as some with single spreader mast. I found some old posts regarding this but they were never properly answered. Is there a difference also in sail size or?
If anyone can share data about their Mango would be glad to receive it (manual, polar diagram etc.);
I am wondering why such a renowned boat yar
d does not have all the data available on their homepage. The only yard to my knowledge with all the data online is Hallberg Rassy.
Some questions:
- Is the boat rolling on long ocean waves going downwind as it is quite narrow for its length?
- Is the installed 80HP Perkins too weak for today's standards? Can anyone suggest what are the actual cruising speeds at given RPM with clean boat with original propeller and with some other type if installed (I've read on older posts that original propeller is 1" too small).
Thank you very much for your inputs.
Cheers, T
Jean-Pierre Germain, Chief Pilot, Cozuro Limited, +44 7551 211 511 jp.germain@...jgermain@...
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Re: [Amel] RE: AMEL MANGO and OLD VIDEO
Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...>
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 22, 2013, at 8:39 PM, < ericmeury@...> wrote:
Henri's old boat is for sale in Ft Lauderdale. I looked at it, but had to be careful to not step on any rat crap. The boat was a mess.
There is one mango for sale (renissance is the boat name) i hear it is in great shape and much cheaper than the price you are currently looking at
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote: Hi All,
Thank you for your inputs. Regarding Nirvana rigging it
seems that two spreaders mast can be associated with in mast furling only.
Yesterday I was on Mango # 66/87 which is for sale. It is
nice, clean and maintained unit with original cover fabrics, running rigging,
sails and electronics.
I liked the vessel very much, but I can see in addition to
purchase price around 50k € costs to outfit the boat for blue water cruising –
to bring it up to date. As the boat is on sale for over 2 years and owner is
fixed with the price, I am wondering whether cca 150k € purchase price (170k €
set price) + outfit costs aren’t too much for a 25 y.o. boat where plenty of
gizmo’s is up to be expected. I.e. Yesterday on the test, during the engine startup
its vibrations did break the main power cable tired clamp on the Battery bank
so the boat lost the power source completely. Owner, his friend and I did
locate a problem and did fix this within 20 minutes, what I like to do very much;
but the question remains …
Thank you for your help so far,
T ---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote: Dear friend, look at this link on the french website of Amel's owners: http://www.forum-voiliers-amel.net/dossiers/heimana.pdf. It regards a Mango owned by mr Amel personnaly and with he sailed the last years of his life. Paolo s/y "Ilarica"
Sharki nr 174
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote: Another suggestion, look at Amel Santorin. fair winds Mike & Chris s/v Akwaaba, santorin sloop no023
Hi Tadej
as a long time SM owner (since 1995 same boat) and several atlantic crossing, I'm glad to give you my input concerning your question:
"Is the boat rolling on long ocean waves going downwind as it is quite narrow for its length?" Not so much, specially with the genua and balloner rolled out with the two poles the boat is well stabilized.
80 hp enough ? Yes ! Speed in flat water, no head wind, clean bottom and fix prop: 8.4 kn with 2800 rpm, 7.5 kn with 2300 rpm, 6 kn with 1900 rpm
( Max speed anyway: 2.43 * SQR 12.60 = 8.6 kn )
Hope that helps
regards
Hanspeter
SM # 16 Tamango 2
----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----
Von : tadej.mezek@...
Datum : 17/10/2013 - 10:46 (UTC)
An : amelyachtowners@...
Betreff : [Amel] AMEL MANGO and OLD VIDEO
Hi all,
I am looking for some data over the older model AMEL MANGO and would like to get as much information as possible; there is quite scarcity of data on internet available.
I found a nice page http://amelsupermaramu.blogspot.com/ on which there is an old 45 minutes long video of factory tour (must be from 80-ties) - and Mango shown on production line.
Can anyone advise me on the Nirvana rigging; I found some Mango models for sale which have two spreaders main mast as well as some with single spreader mast. I found some old posts regarding this but they were never properly answered. Is there a difference also in sail size or?
If anyone can share data about their Mango would be glad to receive it (manual, polar diagram etc.);
I am wondering why such a renowned boat yar
d does not have all the data available on their homepage. The only yard to my knowledge with all the data online is Hallberg Rassy.
Some questions:
- Is the boat rolling on long ocean waves going downwind as it is quite narrow for its length?
- Is the installed 80HP Perkins too weak for today's standards? Can anyone suggest what are the actual cruising speeds at given RPM with clean boat with original propeller and with some other type if installed (I've read on older posts that original propeller is 1" too small).
Thank you very much for your inputs.
Cheers, T
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Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
Hi Kent. We have used the system of filtering water going into the tank heading no Chlorine to the tank and filtering the water with a charcoal filter coming out of the tank with no issues damage to the membranes in the water maker when we\Back Flush about once every three or four weeks to deserve the membranes with no problems for the last 10 years Regards Richard Piller
On Oct 22, 2013, at 11:13, Kent Robertson < karkauai@...> wrote:
Thank you Eric and Richard, Do either of you keep a little chlorine in the tanks to reduce growth? Are you comfortable with using a charcoal filter between the fresh water pump and the membranes to remove any chlorine in the tank water? Has anyone tried hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine? Would a charcoal filter remove H2O2, or is it even damaging to the membranes? Kent
Kent,
I always
fill the tank with charcoal filtered water when using shore water. I also have
a seagull water filter it works great. When we make water, I usually get about
250 ppm from the watermaker.
Fair
Winds
Eric
Amel
Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
Kent
in our two Amels we have installed a charcoal filter before the fresh water for
all the reasons you are concerned about. We've not had any adverse issues
and never have to be concerned when we back flush to water maker.
Regards
On Oct 21, 2013, at 14:40, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
Thanks to all for your suggestions. I've left the boat for a
week with a gallon of household bleach in a full tank, and will return to drain
and rinse and try the vinegar and/or peroxide. I may try the Spray 9 on
selected spots if those don't work, assuming I can flush enough to remove what
ever I use.
Does anyone know if peroxide would damage the membranes if a small amount was
used to retard bacterial/fungal tank growth? I've asked FilmTec but
haven't received a reply yet.
Mark at Great Water suggested I use a small amount of chlorine in the tank to
retard growth, and then run that thru a charcoal filter before flushing,
changing the filter once every 6-12 months. Another company suggested
that I put a UV treatment system between the membranes and the tank to further
sterilize the water as it is produced.
I was shocked to see how much growth was in the tanks. I've been checking
the water for TDS and it's always checked out below 500, so have been drinking
from the tank without additional filtering...it always tasted fine. I
guess you can tell that I don't want to have this mold problem again if I can
help it.
Thanks,
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Brunswick , GA USA
I have cleaned and sanitized my water
tanks with Clorox every year that I have owned Liahona, yet I still get those
same black mold like spots that appear to be a little mound of solid material
about 1 cm in diameter and when removed they leave a black base that defies
removal. I have cleaned the tanks as best I can, sanitized them and have
decided to live in harmony with whatever type of creature this is. No
amount of cleaning has produced a satisfactory result and I haven't noticed any
health issues in 12 years of ownership. When I sanitize my system I do
fill the tanks to the very top and then try to go sailing to allow the treated
water to slosh into all nooks and crannies etc.
I have had good luck on other mold areas
with Spray Nine. It is very effective at removing and preventing
molds for a period of time in my rubber scuppers at the rub rail. It is a
proprietary product available at West Marine etc, and I have not tried it in
the water system for fear of toxicity. Might be worth a spot treatment
trial and if it works seeking more information from the manufacturer about use
in water systems.
Great job of posting lots of information
for others.
Amel SM 335 on the hard in Jolly
Harbor Antigua
Vinegar
then baking soda then flush with water.
On
Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:40 PM, Kent Robertson wrote:
Thanks, Stephanie, I'll try anything at this point.
Kent
Have you
tried hydrogen peroxide (min 3% solution, available in any drug store?
Spray it on full strength. Let it work, then rinse. If it is
still there, try again. Also Borax might work -- 1 cup to 1 gal. Water.
Stephanie
Stephanie DiBelardino
I'm
stuck. I've filled the tanks with 2 gallons of household bleach and let
it sit overnight. I've brushed with a stiff brush on a pole. At
Bill's suggestion, I've purchased an 1800psi pressure and spent an hour
on the middle tank. There are still numerous globs of mold adhered to the
walls of the tank. If I can reach them I can knock the bulk of a glob off
with my fingernail, but it still leaves a black spot and blacker ring that I
can't knock off with the pressure sprayer.
Sooo, anyone have any ideas about what
else I can do? How much bleach is enough? How much is too much?
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know
if the previous owner ever did it. I've accessed the center tank (under
the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).
There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to
the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach
mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off. Is there
any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better
and be safe? Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good
pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.
I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions)
and can't seem to get them. Also still can't reply to an existing thread
(nothing happens when I click on "reply")
Thanks for any suggestions.
I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 2186 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? Try a free scan!
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Re: AMEL MANGO and OLD VIDEO
Henri's old boat is for sale in Ft Lauderdale. I looked at it, but had to be careful to not step on any rat crap. The boat was a mess.
There is one mango for sale (renissance is the boat name) i hear it is in great shape and much cheaper than the price you are currently looking at
---In amelyachtowners@..., <tadej.mezek@...> wrote: Hi All,
Thank you for your inputs. Regarding Nirvana rigging it
seems that two spreaders mast can be associated with in mast furling only.
Yesterday I was on Mango # 66/87 which is for sale. It is
nice, clean and maintained unit with original cover fabrics, running rigging,
sails and electronics.
I liked the vessel very much, but I can see in addition to
purchase price around 50k € costs to outfit the boat for blue water cruising –
to bring it up to date. As the boat is on sale for over 2 years and owner is
fixed with the price, I am wondering whether cca 150k € purchase price (170k €
set price) + outfit costs aren’t too much for a 25 y.o. boat where plenty of
gizmo’s is up to be expected. I.e. Yesterday on the test, during the engine startup
its vibrations did break the main power cable tired clamp on the Battery bank
so the boat lost the power source completely. Owner, his friend and I did
locate a problem and did fix this within 20 minutes, what I like to do very much;
but the question remains …
Thank you for your help so far,
T ---In amelyachtowners@..., <paolopepere@...> wrote: Dear friend, look at this link on the french website of Amel's owners: http://www.forum-voiliers-amel.net/dossiers/heimana.pdf. It regards a Mango owned by mr Amel personnaly and with he sailed the last years of his life. Paolo s/y "Ilarica"
Sharki nr 174
---In amelyachtowners@..., <yachtakwaaba@...> wrote: Another suggestion, look at Amel Santorin. fair winds Mike & Chris s/v Akwaaba, santorin sloop no023
On 18 Oct 2013, at 10:06, "hanspeter.baettig@..." <hanspeter.baettig@...> wrote:
Hi Tadej
as a long time SM owner (since 1995 same boat) and several atlantic crossing, I'm glad to give you my input concerning your question:
"Is the boat rolling on long ocean waves going downwind as it is quite narrow for its length?" Not so much, specially with the genua and balloner rolled out with the two poles the boat is well stabilized.
80 hp enough ? Yes ! Speed in flat water, no head wind, clean bottom and fix prop: 8.4 kn with 2800 rpm, 7.5 kn with 2300 rpm, 6 kn with 1900 rpm
( Max speed anyway: 2.43 * SQR 12.60 = 8.6 kn )
Hope that helps
regards
Hanspeter
SM # 16 Tamango 2
----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----
Von : tadej.mezek@...
Datum : 17/10/2013 - 10:46 (UTC)
An : amelyachtowners@...
Betreff : [Amel] AMEL MANGO and OLD VIDEO
Hi all,
I am looking for some data over the older model AMEL MANGO and would like to get as much information as possible; there is quite scarcity of data on internet available.
I found a nice page http://amelsupermaramu.blogspot.com/ on which there is an old 45 minutes long video of factory tour (must be from 80-ties) - and Mango shown on production line.
Can anyone advise me on the Nirvana rigging; I found some Mango models for sale which have two spreaders main mast as well as some with single spreader mast. I found some old posts regarding this but they were never properly answered. Is there a difference also in sail size or?
If anyone can share data about their Mango would be glad to receive it (manual, polar diagram etc.);
I am wondering why such a renowned boat yar
d does not have all the data available on their homepage. The only yard to my knowledge with all the data online is Hallberg Rassy.
Some questions:
- Is the boat rolling on long ocean waves going downwind as it is quite narrow for its length?
- Is the installed 80HP Perkins too weak for today's standards? Can anyone suggest what are the actual cruising speeds at given RPM with clean boat with original propeller and with some other type if installed (I've read on older posts that original propeller is 1" too small).
Thank you very much for your inputs.
Cheers, T
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Peter,
We have an HP printer/scanner and ee use the scanner as much as the printer...but more important is the availability of print cartriges where you may be traveling. Our HP takes 21 black and 22 color which we were able to buy anywhere
Bill Rouse
BeBe
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Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
Mark Erdos
Eric, I use chlorine bleach as a wash about every 3-4 months, or so. I think every 6 months would suffice. I put 2 gallons of high concentrate bleach in the tank and leave overnight and then empty it (I empty with the fresh water pump and anchor chain wash). I then flush the tank once by filling it up and emptying again. I also hose out the tank from the accessible central chamber with a dockside water hose. When we first purchased Cream Puff, there was a little mold in the tank. The bleach removed it. Since I have been on this system, the tank has stayed clean. We also top off the tank before leaving the boat (I read somewhere it is best to leave it full or completely dry). Once we had the tank mold and slime free, we took a sample of our water to the county for testing. We were told it was of good quality. Some counties will run a test for you, some will not. We were not charged for this and they did it while we waited. It is also a good idea to open all your faucets if you are flushing your tank with bleach. This way your plumbing is also growth free. If you have mold in your plumbing, it will grow backward into the water tank. If you do this be sure to rinse the lines until you are certain they are free of chlorine. We have 2 water makers. We run the French one every 2 weeks when we are in clean water. The water is either added to the tank or sent to the bilge depending on where we are when we run it. The engine driven water maker is pickled. I would not use the fresh water from the tank to flush the membranes as we use bleach in the tanks. My thought being ANY amount of bleach on the membrane is going to either ruin it or shorten the lifespan. Also, we fill the tank with dockside water at the marina and they have chlorine in the city water. I would not trust a charcoal filter to remove all chlorine. I believe you would need a series of filters and thus it is cost prohibitive. We filter our dockside water before it goes into our tank. We use an RV filter: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40631-Premium-Water-Filter/dp/B00523AMBC We also keep a separate hose for filling our tank with dockside water. This hose is stored dry and not just laid on the dock. This ensures nothing grows in the hose. We use the Seagull filter for drinking water and making ice. We change the filter when the water slows down. We did not have this on our previous boats and the water was just fine. So, this might be a little overkill. But, we figure it can’t hurt. Some people will put 1 cap full of bleach per 100 gals of water in the tank. Since we have no problems, I do not do this. If we continued to have issues, I would add the bleach until resolved. I have note known anyone to use hydrogen peroxide. We have used our bleaching system successfully on our last two boats. Hope this helps. Best regards, Mark SM2K #275 www.creampuff.us
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I have a EPSON C66 about 4 years
without any problem !
JLuc on CottonBay
22/10/2013 14:17, Peter Forbes a
écrit :
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I
would like to have a small robust printer on Amel 54.
Does anyone have any advice as to which type works in
this environment?
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Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
karkauai
Thank you Eric and Richard, Do either of you keep a little chlorine in the tanks to reduce growth? Are you comfortable with using a charcoal filter between the fresh water pump and the membranes to remove any chlorine in the tank water? Has anyone tried hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine? Would a charcoal filter remove H2O2, or is it even damaging to the membranes? Kent
From: Sailorman
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 9:18 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
Kent,
I always
fill the tank with charcoal filtered water when using shore water. I also have
a seagull water filter it works great. When we make water, I usually get about
250 ppm from the watermaker.
Fair
Winds
Eric
Amel
Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013
9:15 PM
To:
amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning
the fresh water tanks
Kent
in our two Amels we have installed a charcoal filter before the fresh water for
all the reasons you are concerned about. We've not had any adverse issues
and never have to be concerned when we back flush to water maker.
Regards
On Oct 21, 2013, at 14:40, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
Thanks to all for your suggestions. I've left the boat for a
week with a gallon of household bleach in a full tank, and will return to drain
and rinse and try the vinegar and/or peroxide. I may try the Spray 9 on
selected spots if those don't work, assuming I can flush enough to remove what
ever I use.
Does anyone know if peroxide would damage the membranes if a small amount was
used to retard bacterial/fungal tank growth? I've asked FilmTec but
haven't received a reply yet.
Mark at Great Water suggested I use a small amount of chlorine in the tank to
retard growth, and then run that thru a charcoal filter before flushing,
changing the filter once every 6-12 months. Another company suggested
that I put a UV treatment system between the membranes and the tank to further
sterilize the water as it is produced.
I was shocked to see how much growth was in the tanks. I've been checking
the water for TDS and it's always checked out below 500, so have been drinking
from the tank without additional filtering...it always tasted fine. I
guess you can tell that I don't want to have this mold problem again if I can
help it.
Thanks,
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Brunswick , GA USA
I have cleaned and sanitized my water
tanks with Clorox every year that I have owned Liahona, yet I still get those
same black mold like spots that appear to be a little mound of solid material
about 1 cm in diameter and when removed they leave a black base that defies
removal. I have cleaned the tanks as best I can, sanitized them and have
decided to live in harmony with whatever type of creature this is. No
amount of cleaning has produced a satisfactory result and I haven't noticed any
health issues in 12 years of ownership. When I sanitize my system I do
fill the tanks to the very top and then try to go sailing to allow the treated
water to slosh into all nooks and crannies etc.
I have had good luck on other mold areas
with Spray Nine. It is very effective at removing and preventing
molds for a period of time in my rubber scuppers at the rub rail. It is a
proprietary product available at West Marine etc, and I have not tried it in
the water system for fear of toxicity. Might be worth a spot treatment
trial and if it works seeking more information from the manufacturer about use
in water systems.
Great job of posting lots of information
for others.
Amel SM 335 on the hard in Jolly
Harbor Antigua
Vinegar
then baking soda then flush with water.
On
Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:40 PM, Kent Robertson wrote:
Thanks, Stephanie, I'll try anything at this point.
Kent
Have you
tried hydrogen peroxide (min 3% solution, available in any drug store?
Spray it on full strength. Let it work, then rinse. If it is
still there, try again. Also Borax might work -- 1 cup to 1 gal. Water.
Stephanie
Stephanie DiBelardino
I'm
stuck. I've filled the tanks with 2 gallons of household bleach and let
it sit overnight. I've brushed with a stiff brush on a pole. At
Bill's suggestion, I've purchased an 1800psi pressure and spent an hour
on the middle tank. There are still numerous globs of mold adhered to the
walls of the tank. If I can reach them I can knock the bulk of a glob off
with my fingernail, but it still leaves a black spot and blacker ring that I
can't knock off with the pressure sprayer.
Sooo, anyone have any ideas about what
else I can do? How much bleach is enough? How much is too much?
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know
if the previous owner ever did it. I've accessed the center tank (under
the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).
There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to
the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach
mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off. Is there
any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better
and be safe? Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good
pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.
I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions)
and can't seem to get them. Also still can't reply to an existing thread
(nothing happens when I click on "reply")
Thanks for any suggestions.
I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 2186 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? Try a free scan!
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Gene Carter <geneccarter@...>
We have hadv grea t sucess HP wireless travel
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From:
Peter Forbes ;
To:
amelyachtowners@...
Subject:
[Amel] Printer
Sent:
Tue, Oct 22, 2013 12:17:14 PM
I would like to have a small robust printer on Amel 54. Does anyone have any advice as to which type works in this environment?
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Peter Forbes
I would like to have a small robust printer on Amel 54. Does anyone have any advice as to which type works in this environment?
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Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
Do not use anything with Chlorine and Water maker membranes. These are extremely vulnerable to Chlorine residues or/and cleaning agents containing it.
Cheers, T.
---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Thanks to all for your suggestions. I've left the boat for a week with a gallon of household bleach in a full tank, and will return to drain and rinse and try the vinegar and/or peroxide. I may try the Spray 9 on selected spots if those don't work, assuming I can flush enough to remove what ever I use. Does anyone know if peroxide would damage the membranes if a small amount was used to retard bacterial/fungal tank growth? I've asked FilmTec but haven't received a reply yet. Mark at Great Water suggested I use a small amount of chlorine in the tank to retard growth, and then run that thru a charcoal filter before flushing, changing the filter once every 6-12 months. Another company suggested that I put a UV treatment system between the membranes and the tank to further sterilize
the water as it is produced. I was shocked to see how much growth was in the tanks. I've been checking the water for TDS and it's always checked out below 500, so have been drinking from the tank without additional filtering...it always tasted fine. I guess you can tell that I don't want to have this mold problem again if I can help it. Thanks, Kent SM243 Kristy Brunswick, GA USA
From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday,
October 20, 2013 9:31 PM
Subject: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
Hi Kent:
Greetings from Liahona.
I have cleaned and sanitized my water tanks with Clorox every year that I have owned Liahona, yet I still get those same black mold like spots that appear to be a little mound of solid material about 1 cm in diameter and when removed they leave a black base that defies removal. I have cleaned the tanks as best I can, sanitized them and have decided to live in harmony with whatever type of creature this is.
No amount of cleaning has produced a satisfactory result and I haven't noticed any health issues in 12 years of ownership. When I sanitize my system I do fill the tanks to the very top and then try to go sailing to allow the treated water to slosh into all nooks and crannies etc.
I have had good luck on other mold areas with Spray Nine. It is very effective at removing and preventing molds for a period of time in my rubber scuppers at the rub rail. It is a proprietary product available at West Marine etc, and I have not tried it in the water system for fear of toxicity. Might be worth a spot treatment
trial and if it works seeking more information from the manufacturer about use in water systems.
Great job of posting lots of information for others.
All the best,
Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 335 on the hard in Jolly Harbor Antigua ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sammie.whammie@...> wrote: Vinegar then
baking soda then flush with water. . On Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:40 PM, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
Thanks, Stephanie, I'll try anything at this point. Kent
From: Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
<amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
Have you tried hydrogen peroxide (min 3% solution, available in any drug store? Spray it on full strength. Let it work, then rinse. If it is still there, try again. Also Borax might work -- 1 cup to 1 gal. Water.
Good luck with this job! Stephanie
Stephanie DiBelardino
Hi again, I'm stuck. I've filled the tanks with 2 gallons of household bleach and let it sit overnight. I've brushed with a stiff brush on a pole. At Bill's suggestion, I've purchased an 1800psi pressure and spent an hour on the middle tank. There are still numerous globs of mold adhered to the walls of the tank. If I can reach them I can knock the bulk of a glob off with my fingernail, but it still leaves a black spot and blacker ring that I can't knock off with the pressure sprayer.
Sooo, anyone have any ideas about what else I can do? How much bleach is enough? How much is too much?
Thanks for any and all suggestions. Kent SM243 Kristy Brunswick GA USA
---In amelyachtowners@..., < amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hi again, gang.
I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know if the previous owner ever did it. I've accessed the center tank (under the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge). There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off. Is there any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better and be safe? Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.
I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions) and can't seem to get them. Also still can't reply to an existing thread (nothing happens when I click on "reply")
Thanks for any suggestions.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA
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Hi Drew and Lili,
I think you are having a relay problem within the tuner box as a result of a kind of leakage inside the tuner box etc. Start with checking all cables and its connections - the tuner might be loosing contact during transmissions due to oxidized contacts. If you are HAM operator try to find amateur radio operator in the region (possible to contact sysop of Airmail RMS station). I am sure they will know a good technician in town which will solve your problems if the contacts aren't the case.
All the best, T. ---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Our AT-140 tuner had been working well, but the past few weeks, has intermittant problems tuning in the 14-21MHz range. Sometimes it tunes immediately, sometimes it won't tune those frequencies at all, and sometimes it says "tune", but with two or 3 transmissions, it loses it's tune. We're using the iCom 802 and a Commander whip that's 21.5' in length. I've spoken with iCom and they could only suggest sending it back to their service center in Washington state. There's no iCom repair facility in South Africa. I wonder if there's an intermittant inability to activate one of the tuning coils, but I'm not sure how to check that. When the system works, it works well and we're quite pleased with it. South Africa has a single AirMail station with 3 consecutive 20M frequencies. Thanks Drew and Lili Revelation SM390 Durban ZA
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Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks
Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
Kent,
I always
fill the tank with charcoal filtered water when using shore water. I also have
a seagull water filter it works great. When we make water, I usually get about
250 ppm from the watermaker.
Fair
Winds
Eric
Amel
Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Richard03801
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013
9:15 PM
To:
amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning
the fresh water tanks
Kent
in our two Amels we have installed a charcoal filter before the fresh water for
all the reasons you are concerned about. We've not had any adverse issues
and never have to be concerned when we back flush to water maker.
Regards
On Oct 21, 2013, at 14:40, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks to all for your suggestions. I've left the boat for a
week with a gallon of household bleach in a full tank, and will return to drain
and rinse and try the vinegar and/or peroxide. I may try the Spray 9 on
selected spots if those don't work, assuming I can flush enough to remove what
ever I use.
Does anyone know if peroxide would damage the membranes if a small amount was
used to retard bacterial/fungal tank growth? I've asked FilmTec but
haven't received a reply yet.
Mark at Great Water suggested I use a small amount of chlorine in the tank to
retard growth, and then run that thru a charcoal filter before flushing,
changing the filter once every 6-12 months. Another company suggested
that I put a UV treatment system between the membranes and the tank to further
sterilize the water as it is produced.
I was shocked to see how much growth was in the tanks. I've been checking
the water for TDS and it's always checked out below 500, so have been drinking
from the tank without additional filtering...it always tasted fine. I
guess you can tell that I don't want to have this mold problem again if I can
help it.
Thanks,
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Brunswick, GA USA
I have cleaned and sanitized my water
tanks with Clorox every year that I have owned Liahona, yet I still get those
same black mold like spots that appear to be a little mound of solid material
about 1 cm in diameter and when removed they leave a black base that defies
removal. I have cleaned the tanks as best I can, sanitized them and have
decided to live in harmony with whatever type of creature this is. No
amount of cleaning has produced a satisfactory result and I haven't noticed any
health issues in 12 years of ownership. When I sanitize my system I do
fill the tanks to the very top and then try to go sailing to allow the treated
water to slosh into all nooks and crannies etc.
I have had good luck on other mold areas
with Spray Nine. It is very effective at removing and preventing
molds for a period of time in my rubber scuppers at the rub rail. It is a
proprietary product available at West Marine etc, and I have not tried it in
the water system for fear of toxicity. Might be worth a spot treatment
trial and if it works seeking more information from the manufacturer about use
in water systems.
Great job of posting lots of information
for others.
Amel SM 335 on the hard in Jolly
Harbor Antigua
---In amelyachtowners@...,
wrote:
Vinegar
then baking soda then flush with water.
On
Saturday, October 19, 2013 1:40 PM, Kent Robertson wrote:
Thanks, Stephanie, I'll try anything at this point.
Kent
Have you
tried hydrogen peroxide (min 3% solution, available in any drug store?
Spray it on full strength. Let it work, then rinse. If it is
still there, try again. Also Borax might work -- 1 cup to 1 gal. Water.
Stephanie
Stephanie DiBelardino
I'm
stuck. I've filled the tanks with 2 gallons of household bleach and let
it sit overnight. I've brushed with a stiff brush on a pole. At
Bill's suggestion, I've purchased an 1800psi pressure and spent an hour
on the middle tank. There are still numerous globs of mold adhered to the
walls of the tank. If I can reach them I can knock the bulk of a glob off
with my fingernail, but it still leaves a black spot and blacker ring that I
can't knock off with the pressure sprayer.
Sooo, anyone have any ideas about what
else I can do? How much bleach is enough? How much is too much?
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
---In amelyachtowners@...,
<amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know
if the previous owner ever did it. I've accessed the center tank (under
the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).
There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to
the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach
mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off. Is there
any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better
and be safe? Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good
pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.
I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions)
and can't seem to get them. Also still can't reply to an existing thread
(nothing happens when I click on "reply")
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Re: [Amel] bow truster LEAKING from Alex Uster
Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
With the unit up you still have to have foam seals in good shape. They have to have been changed too. Two on the outside of the hull and one in side. There must be tension on the cable with the pin in must be very tight. Regards Richard Piller
On Oct 20, 2013, at 14:42, Alexandre Uster von Baar < uster@...> wrote:
The foam and lip seals were replaced a year ago (by Amel), is this normal they last so little time???
Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 10/20/13, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel] bow truster LEAKING from Alex Uster
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Sunday, October 20, 2013, 11:26 AM
Hi it is time to replace the foam and lip
seals. You can get a set from Amel it ck this site for other
sources.
Regards Richard
Piller
Cell 603 767
5330
On Oct 20, 2013, at 10:12, Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
wrote:
I have noted more and more water in the compartment next to
the fwd head...
When I go sailing, I always "LOCK" the bow
thruster, but regardless water seems to be coming in.
Any advice? Is there some adjustment I can do to make it
tighter?
Any other solution?
I had it service by Amel Martinique last Nov.
Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA
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Re: [Amel] Winter hardstanding
Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
On Corse in Porto Vecchio they can crane her out. It is also cheap to leave her in the water. LaCotta in France is also good Regards Richard Piller
On Oct 2, 2013, at 18:13, < gmshea@...> wrote:
This time next year I plan on being in the Cote d' Azur/ Riviera/Corsica area and would like to pull the boat for the winter. Does anyone have any experience with hardstanding in those areas? Greg Shea Sharki 133, Cap des Isles
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