Date   

B & G Depth Sounder Problem

Ian Shepherd
 

Of late my B & G depth sounder seems reluctant to start up when sailing into shallow waters. The 4 floating bars on the Hydra remain stationary and no depth is acquired. Switching the power off then on always cures the problem, but this is an annoyance to me as it also de-powers my AIS transponder and its GPS receiver which feeds all my navigation programs, losing the yachts position at a critical time. Once the Hydra has been rebooted the sounder works fine up to depths of almost 200M so I don't think it's the transducer or the receiver gain.

Has anyone else had this problem and could advise of a fix please?

Ian Shepherd Sm 414 (2003) Crusader Greece


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Ian Shepherd
 

OK thanks Eric.I have changed the main solenoid with the rubber covered
stop button, but it had no effect.

Good luck with the surgery.

Ian SM414 Crusader (2003)

On 14/08/2013 08:16, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo)
with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think
that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all
together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@...
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine
trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Rink,

I too changed the solenoid mounted on the engine too but it had no
effect. I have exhaustedly checked the red stop button and there is no
problem with it. Yanmar agents that I have spoken too all say that if
the battery is located too far from the engine, then a long cable run is
often the cause. On the Amel SM the cable run is not short, but not all
of us have the problem.

My modification works fine as long as you are happy to wait for up to 40
seconds for the engine to stop. You only have to touch the red stop
button and then let go. A panel mounted LED confirms that shut down is
in process. The irritating thing is that sometimes it stops immediately.
One can run a good sweepstake game betting on how long it will take!

It's not only Amel Yanmar owners that have this problem, so the fault
would appear to lie with Yanmar rather than anything Amel have done. It
would seem from what has been posted that several things can cause the
problem. Overall the design of the shut down system seems far too fragile.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader -Alonisos Island Northern Sporades Greece

On 14/08/2013 08:34, Rink de Haan wrote:

I had the same problem when we bought Razor's Edge 5 years ago. I had
to stop the engine sometimes using the rubber switch under the
solenoid switch. After a while also the solenoid switch didn't work
properly anymore.
I did two things: I replaced the solenoid switch which I bought in
Turkey for about EUR60 and I replaced the red stop button. When I
removed the stop button I noticed that it was broken inside which was
the real cause of the problem.

Rink de Haan
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition
to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the
boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid
(valeo) with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that
was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I
think that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem





Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all
together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP
engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop
button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to
hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit
located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with
marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available
if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off
resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know
and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

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<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Air con

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Keep the fan running at high speed and check to the strainer to be sure it is clean.

Regards
Richard Piller
Fairbanks Yacht Group llc
Full service brokerage
Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 14, 2013, at 12:33, "ya_fohi" <sharongbrown@...> wrote:

Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner units icing up
It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler) correction

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

The DC60 with the 3367 end caps. With 3/8 bspp threads

Is the correct one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@...
<mailto:sales%40heatexchangershop.com> ]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler

Eric,

Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.

Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.

DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks

See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.

Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fax: 1-617-924-7271

E-mail: rbangs@... <mailto:rbangs%40heatexchangershop.com>


Website: www.heatexchangershop.com

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill
aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 10:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)

Does anyone have a good source for the transmission oil cooler for the 100
Turbo Yanmar? Make, Model & Price.

Eric, I think I remember you saying that you were buying one or going to buy
one. Did you and where?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not
'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you
help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV
BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in
gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need
checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the
culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the
prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that
just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top
was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+
revs
to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia





_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
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SPAMfighter has removed 1751 of my spam emails to date.

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Springs in wearing out bearing--AGAIN

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Joel and all

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1838 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!


Re: [Amel] Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

The DC60 with the 3367 end caps.

Is the correct one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite













From: Sales & Engineering [mailto:sales@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:39 AM
To: 'Sailorman'
Subject: RE: Marine transmission oil cooler



Eric,



Thank you for the inquiry. The unit that you have there appears to be one
of the DC Series coolers; I think it is the DC60. We do not have that unit
in stock but have he next size up, I'm not sure if you have the room to go
with a longer cooler or not. Following is the pricing for both units,
please let me know if you have any questions or need further information.



Model #DC90-XAA

Price $153.60

*Unit has 3/8" BSPP oil connections and 22mm I.D. x 32mm O.D. straight hose
bibs.

Delivery - In stock and can ship same day from our Watertown, MA location.



DC60-???

Price $137.00

*Pricing is good for any configuration.

Delivery - Allow 4 to 6 weeks



See attached catalog for dimensional data and connection sizes and
configuration.





Best Regards,

Bob Bangs

Sales Representative

Therma-Flow, Inc.

Phone: 1-617-924-3877

Fax: 1-617-924-7271

E-mail: rbangs@...

Website: www.heatexchangershop.com







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 10:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)





Does anyone have a good source for the transmission oil cooler for the 100
Turbo Yanmar? Make, Model & Price.

Eric, I think I remember you saying that you were buying one or going to buy
one. Did you and where?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not
'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you
help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV
BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in
gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need
checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the
culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the
prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that
just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top
was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+
revs
to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia





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Air con

ya_fohi
 

Have any others had a problem with the air conditioner units icing up
It is fine in the small cabin, but the Saloon and main cabin, keep icing up on a regular basis.


Re: Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)

seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
 

Bill,
The original cooler is made by www.ejbowman.co.uk.
Regards,
Trevor
Seafever

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Does anyone have a good source for the transmission oil cooler for the 100 Turbo Yanmar? Make, Model & Price.

Eric, I think I remember you saying that you were buying one or going to buy one. Did you and where?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not 'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@ <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in
gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need
checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the
culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the
prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that
just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs
to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia





_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1751 of my spam emails to date.

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Transmission Heat Exchanger (oil cooler)

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Does anyone have a good source for the transmission oil cooler for the 100 Turbo Yanmar? Make, Model & Price.

Eric, I think I remember you saying that you were buying one or going to buy one. Did you and where?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not 'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in
gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need
checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the
culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the
prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that
just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs
to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
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SPAMfighter has removed 1751 of my spam emails to date.

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Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Prop Shaft Seals & Wearing bearing replacement & ZF Gearbox Seawater Cooler

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Thanks again to all on this site for your assistance.

To close this topic off (HELP - AMEL DRIVE) Island Pearl II is back on the water and after a solid 3 days of testing after her annual haul out, we are very pleased with the results.

So that others may benefit from our learning's our 2 problems were:

1) Milky oil bubbling out of filler cap of Amel Drive oil resavoir: - As Joel predicted this was due to the Prop shaft oil seals & wearing bearing failing 1 year after doing 1200hrs motoring (mainly in the Pacific) when travelling from Canary Islands to Australia. The Amel manual recommends changing these seals & bearing every 800hrs or 2 years and ours was clearly overdue when it recently failed. Fortunately we caught it right away, and the process replacing the seals & bearing was very easy when following Bill's and Gary's instructions on this site. I will certainly be doing this each 2 yrs from now on since it is not hard and pretty inexpensive. We had 2 sets of seals & wearing bearings sent over from Amel so will always have a spare on board in future. We also followed Joel's advice to flush fully with benzine and the inner bearings looks absolutely in mint condition since we caught the problem so early. Finally a very useful step by step guide with detailed pictures was found on our french sister site " http://forum-voiliers-amel.net/ which I will try to upload on this site for others to benefit from.

2)The gearbox problem which struck on the same outing, ie. would not engage gear once the gearbox had warmed up, simply revs away with no propulsion fwd or rev.(very scary in a tight situation!).. was exactly as Trevor had described. The problem turned out to be a failure in the gearbox seawater oil cooler unit where the internal copper pipes had corroded through and seawater was getting into the gearbox oil causing it to become milky in colour and soft/fuzzy so could not exert enough pressure to push the gears into fwd or rev...After talking to ZF Hurth in Australia they put us onto their local supplier in Australia for replacement gearbox oil coolers who came out and tested the old unit then built a new replacement which we found pretty straightforward & simply to re-install ourselves followed by 5 sets of flushing through with new ATF gear oil to ensure absolutely all residual moisture was extracted. ZF and local mechanics have told us that such oil coolers are prone to this failure over time (our original Yanmar 75 has only 1480hrs now)and this is a pretty common problem. Luckily again (since I had not been motoring the boat for so long and always check my oils befor each outing) we caught this problem immediately after the failure so there was no gearbox damage but it is perhaps a warning for others to do regular checks of the colour of the oil in the gearbox to ensure no seawater contamination.

In summary it is nothing but a pleasure working on problems on the Amel Super Maramu since this site is so helpful and Amel really do have such practical and well thought out systems which are dead easy to maintain & repair locally. Interestingly Amel themselves (Maud) have also been most helpful and responsive too in air freighting parts out promptly.

Fair Winds
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM2K # 332
Brisbane, Australia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi Trevor

Many thanks for your assistance again.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 26/07/2013, at 9:26 PM, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@...> wrote:


Colin,
Same gearbox and ratios part no 3315002011, the cooler comes from Bowman who you will find on line, but should be supplied easily from a gearbox agent.
My box was supplied by Total Yacht Works Mazatlan Mexico, Bob Buuchanan, totalyachtworks@... it took six weeks to get it from Fort Lauderdale Florida to Mexico. It was a long time at anchor.
The quote was two weeks.
Best regards,
Trevor

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Hi Trevor

I am trying to source a new gearbox today and would greatly appreciate it
is you could let me know who supplied this and the other parts to you. We
got in touch with Maud at Amel yesterday with the same question, as well as
ZF in Australia and are waiting for responses however it may be quicker and
certainly cheaper to go through your supplier if they freight it
internationally. Were you able to find the exact same gearbox? My version
was the ZF Hurth Marine Arco Italy HBW 250H 2.8R with ratios A 2.8 & B 2.8.
I have the Yanmar 75HP 4JH3-TE motor not the 100HP.

Kind regards
Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k #332

can't


On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 3:13 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@>wrote:

**


Colin,
The rust is normal and of little consequence. The hydraulic pump inside
the gearbox creates the pressure to open the brake pads when the engine is
running. Therefore if you have no hydraulic pressure the brake pads will
remain closed and firmly attached to the brake disk. Both brake pads should
be closed against the disk when the engine is stopped or as now when you
have no pressure if they are wearing unevenly
it is because the round cylinder that you can see that controls the pads
is out of alignment and can easily be straightened by packing a piece of
rubber between the cylinder and the angle iron frame it is mounted on.
If your pads are worn unevenly now is a good time to take them to a brake
shop and they will reline the pads. Be careful when removing them as there
is a little spring which will drop out.
I checked my Paypal account $ 3355.30 including a clutch plate which is
around $100 and hoses , fittings etc.
When removing the gearbox it would be a good idea to replace the rubber
bushes in the Vetus coupler and you will probably need a puller to get the
flange off the drive shaft. In my case I made one out of a scrap piece of
12mm steel plate and put a socket between the shaft and the plate and
tightened it up and eventually the flange surrendered.
Regards,
Trevor

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>
wrote:

Hi All

Just re-read Bill's comment and had another look at the Autoprop shaft
brake a short while ago. Interestingly when the engine is off the brake
caliper on the one side only, (ie. closest to the engine) remains presses
against the flywheel disc. Is this normal? When should the brake calipers
be presses against the wheel and when should they be pulled away from it?
Perhaps this was causing the problem however I am not sure how it could
do
so other than straining (& hence overheating) the gearbox if it had
remained clamped on the flywheel disc? Any experiences/comments about
this
would be greatly valued?

Also looking at the shaft brake system I am getting slight surface
rust/dust on it. Is there a good product I should be using to clean and
keep it rust free?

Fair winds

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k # 332



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 2:38 PM, Colin Streeter
<colin.d.streeter@>wrote:

Dear Joel, Bill, Trevor, Kent and All

Thank you all once again for the swift assistance and incredibly
helpful
advice at such a critical time for us all on board. This group is
simply
amazing and a huge comfort.

Based on the fact that we have a 3 week wait for a lift onto the hard
stand and for mechanical assistance, and on reading earlier postings we
decided to engage FWD gear and run slowly into our marina berth without
taking it out of gear at all (since we previously found it would not
re-engage gear once the gearbox had warmed up). Thankfully the gears
held
for the 15min slow run in and with the aid of the bow thruster and wind
direction we were able to dock safely without using reverse gear and
so she
is safely home.

In terms of all your advice I am now pretty sure we have the following
two
problems:

1) I think* Joel* is absolutely spot on with the tip that the shaft
bearings/seals have possibly failed and that sea water has recently got
into the drive and that this had pushed up through the oil filler cap.
I
will follow Joel's instructions precisely as well as an earlier
posting by
Gary Silver and others about how best to remove and replace the
bearings.
We will flush it with benzine and use a white filter cloth to check
that
nothing other than oil comes out. I am pretty sure this will be fine
afterwards as this is a new problem as of yesterday only and we have
hardly
motored at all in the past 6 months.

2) I feel *Trevor's* advice is exactly the problem with the ZF Hurth
HSW

250H gearbox. We checked the oil as Trevor suggested and the colour is
milky brown plus the level when cold is well above the high marker when
measured. Furthermore when cold the gears engage, and when
warm.....nothing
other than the noise of trying to engage in FWD or Reverse. Clearly the
gasket has failed and cooling water has recently entered the gear oil
chamber.

Our plan of action is to firstly have the gearbox removed and hopefully
reconditioned by ZF here in Australia, then once re-fitted drive her
around
to the hardstand crane to lift out and replace the shaft bearings.
Fortunately the gear box issue is new as I checked the gearbox oil
about 1
month ago and it was the same colour red ATF oil as we put in at last
service. Also I am hopeful of no damage to the shaft/Amel Drive since
we
have hardly used the engine as we always motor for only about 5 mins
only
before setting sail here in Brisbane.

Thanks again to all for the incredible assistance.

Kind regards

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #322



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:35 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@
...>wrote:

**


Hi Colin,
Have you checked the ATF in your gear box? If so what colour is it?
You
need to take the level when the yellow dipstick is unscrewed and
gently
resting on the gearbox casing.
If you are having gear selection problems due to not enough fluid ,or
sea
water ingress into the gearbox due to the ATF cooler failing, you
will be
able to engage gear when the gearbox is cool but you will hear the wet
clutches make a noise similar to something caught around the prop
when the
gearbox is too hot. You will get propulsion for a while then nothing
except
revs.
Another wild guess have you checked to ensure that the bolts on the
Vetus
coupler are intact?
I hope this will be of some help.
Good luck.
Trevor
Seafever
Sm 425
Mexico


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@>
wrote:

Hi Colin.
I think I'm the only other Amel owner to have a failure between the
transmission and the CDrive. The drive shaft between the transmission
and
the first 90 degree gear broke where it stepped down in size. I had a
machine shop in Puerto Rico repair the shaft for a fraction of what
new
parts from Amel would cost. There are some pics on the photos section
under
Kristy SM243 folder and if you search messages for "broken C Drive"
you'll
find a lengthy thread about it.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you have other questions?
Kent
SM 243 KRISTY
Brunswick GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>
wrote:

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to
me.
I will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but
cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop
rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the
shaft not
turning..

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals
from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a
local
bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part
numbers /
sizes for these.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop
shaft seals
have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The
saltwater has
emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid
in
the drive
system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this
increasing
fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you
resealed
the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came
in;
out
through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system
with plenty
of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by
directing the
exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids
before you
replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is
needed, please.
Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse
gear would
turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse?
Or



Re: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 max rpm

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi we never got more then 2800 out of ours. Clean or not. At present 2800 was tested again recently. No smoke just pushed the boat just fine. We generally run at 18-2000. It's enough and still loads the motor TMD22.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 13, 2013, at 13:42, Veit Mueller <veitm@...> wrote:

2900 with everything clean.
Veit
SM215 ATMAN

Sent from my vm iPad

On Aug 13, 2013, at 8:45 AM, "Graham" <crwggb@...> wrote:

Straight forward question:

If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your Super Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the max prop fitted? The more responses the better!

Graham
SM 140 Sula
Hong Kong


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Thanks Ian & Rink
Since Island Pearl II and Razor's Edge were built at the same time we would
have the same batch of Yanmar switches. I will check that too.
Kind regards
Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Tangalooma, Brisbane, Australia


On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 6:34 PM, Rink de Haan <rinkdehaan@...> wrote:

**


I had the same problem when we bought Razor's Edge 5 years ago. I had to
stop the engine sometimes using the rubber switch under the solenoid
switch. After a while also the solenoid switch didn't work properly anymore.
I did two things: I replaced the solenoid switch which I bought in Turkey
for about 60 and I replaced the red stop button. When I removed the stop
button I noticed that it was broken inside which was the real cause of the
problem.

Rink de Haan
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge
Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to
the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo)
with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think
that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem





Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all
together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button
is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit
located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine
trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around 500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if
you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for 5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off
resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and
I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Rink De Haan
 

I had the same problem when we bought Razor's Edge 5 years ago. I had to stop the engine sometimes using the rubber switch under the solenoid switch. After a while also the solenoid switch didn't work properly anymore.
I did two things: I replaced the solenoid switch which I bought in Turkey for about €60 and I replaced the red stop button. When I removed the stop button I noticed that it was broken inside which was the real cause of the problem.

Rink de Haan
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo) with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem





Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

Will be away for a week or so (surgery) I will first try to determine if in
fact, that was the solenoid and then I will send photos. It is almost next
to the Valero solenoid and it is semi circular --again that may have been
the problem or not.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Dennis Woods
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 4:31 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,
I also suffer from this problem. Would it be possible for you to put up a
photograph of the layout highlighting the solenoid which you think might
need to be changed. Thanks.
Happy sails
Dennis
il flauto magico smk 408


On 14 Aug 2013, at 09:16, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo)
with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think
that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all
together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine
trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
SPAMfighter has removed 1833 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan
http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Dennis woods
 

Hi Eric,
I also suffer from this problem. Would it be possible for you to put up a photograph of the layout highlighting the solenoid which you think might need to be changed. Thanks.
Happy sails
Dennis
il flauto magico smk 408


On 14 Aug 2013, at 09:16, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo) with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around 500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for 5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Sailorman <kimberlite@...>
 

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo) with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem





Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold
the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to
incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new
rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean



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Re: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 max rpm

Graham Boyd
 

Thanks for all the replies. Great pictures of cleaning the turbo Alexandre. I too have done all this but mine was much worse at the start. It was all gummed up and the waste gate valve was jammed closed. The exhaust elbo was in a terrible mess so I replaced that. Max RPM before "fixing" was amazingly enough 2800. After fixing/clean of turbo max RPM now only 2300!! I took a spanner to the top of the waste gate valve as per your picture whilst the engine was running and forced it in the closed direction, and hey presto 2800rpm once again, so I tightened the arm from the waste gate actuator so that the arm has to be pulled out by half a hole diameter to fix it over the post on the waste gate lever, in the hope this would hold the waste gate closed, but no effect. Maybe I should tighten this further still? I have already replaced the waste gate actuator, and suspect that the problem is a damaged seal between the waste gate valve and the turbo body. Does any one know if this is repairable or am I into new turbo land?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Alexandre Ouster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:


For now 2200 rpm.

But Sunday, I cleaned the turbo (as well as exhaust elbow, intercooler, etc.), and this morning had a diver cleaning the prop.

So hopefully Saturday, I really hope to get more RPM (would be happy with 2800)

Only things I wasn't sure to test or adjust is the rod to the "Waste Gate Valve". It moved freely using a spanner.

Picture of the turbo cleaning on:
http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/13/13, Veit Mueller <veitm@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 max rpm
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2013, 12:42 PM
















 









2900 with everything clean.

Veit

SM215 ATMAN



Sent from my vm iPad



On Aug 13, 2013, at 8:45 AM, "Graham" <crwggb@...>
wrote:



> Straight forward question:

>

> If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your Super
Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the max
prop fitted? The more responses the better!

>

> Graham

> SM 140 Sula

> Hong Kong

>

>





Re: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 max rpm

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Sm2k #289 also Auto-prop.


--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/13/13, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 max rpm
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2013, 2:39 PM
















 









Just realized you said maxprop. SM243 had an
Autoprop.

Kent
On Aug 13, 2013, at 1:42 PM, Veit Mueller <veitm@...>
wrote:



> 2900 with everything clean.

> Veit

> SM215 ATMAN

>

> Sent from my vm iPad

>

> On Aug 13, 2013, at 8:45 AM, "Graham" <crwggb@...>
wrote:

>

> > Straight forward question:

> >

> > If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your
Super Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the
max prop fitted? The more responses the better!

> >

> > Graham

> > SM 140 Sula

> > Hong Kong

> >

> >

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]