Date   

Re: rear holding tank clogged

Craig Briggs
 

Gianni,

I may have been the one you recall being an advocate of Hydrochloric acid - also known as Muriatic acid. All your plumbing parts will be non-reactive with it (remember, much waste going in is acidic). Depending on the amount of build-up in your pipes you may have to let it "cook" for a long time and repeat to get them really clean. Then every few weeks should keep things clear. No need for the extra chemical reaction excitement of adding a base like baking soda to the acid - the deposits you're attacking are already doing that so just flush everything through. Hydrochloric acid totally dissociates in water. Of course, do be eco friendly with your discharge.

It's sold in many countries as toilet cleaner, but read the label to be sure it's Hydrochloric acid and not caustic soda and never mix those - way too exciting. Some brands also contain surfactants that add to the effectiveness, but plain HCl is excellent and cheap.

Cheers,
Craig Briggs


Re: [Amel] Re: rear holding tank clogged

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Hydrochloric acid works perfect, but it affects the mercerator electrical motor. We used to use hydrocloric acid, but after destroying two engins we don't put the acid in the toilet any moore. If it is the tank that has clogged, put the acid in the tank from deck. But you need to leave the acid there for maybe one hour. The tank is made of GRP, so the acid doesn't affect that. And when the clogg is gone, the acid will pour out, as long as you leave the valve open. Rince thoroughly with water.

Or use vinaigre through the toilet instead. It does the same work, but needs longer time. Use 2-3 liters or more, leave it over night and then try to empty your tank. Repeat until the tank is clear.
This way you get both the tank and the hoses clean in the same time.

When you have (or if) you remove the lid to the tank you can also use some long stick to get the opening wider. The evacuation hole is mor or less straight under the deck hole.

Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila, SM #232 in Licata, Sicily


Skickat från min iPad

30 jul 2013 kl. 15:28 skrev "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...>:

Ciao Gianni,

I do not know if this was the correct thing to do...BUT...I used a form of acid that was some solution of Hydrochloric acid on BeBe's aft tank valve. I poured it in the deck pump-out opening, let it sit for about 15-20 seconds, then worked the valve handle back and forth. I repeated twice, then flushed with baking soda and water solution to neutralize the acid. I believe once you get it working freely you may be able to pump some lithium grease into the valve to lubricate it.

If your tank is full, you will have to have it pumped out before you try above.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Giovanni Testa" <gtesta23@...> wrote:

Hi to all, I remember that some used to pour acid into the tank to dissolve the organic obstruction. But I don't remeber which, from which hole and how to work. Please, any suggestion may help.
All the best
Giovanni TESTA SM 428
Port Vila
Vanuatu


Re: Cleaning props and hull - hookah systems

Craig Briggs
 

Per Kent's comment that many of these systems are much too expensive for what you actually get, take a look at David Lynn's article in the December 2012 issue of Ocean Navigator about how to simply and cheaply construct your own.

If you are SSCA members the on-line Ocean Navigator is free. You may also try this link: http://www.oceannavigator.com/November-December-2012/A-hookah-dive-system/

David is contributing editor to ON and he and Marcie sail aboard s/v Nine of Cups - good info on their website "Nineofcups dot com" where there's also a link to this article and many others.

Craig Briggs
SN 68 "Sangaris" in Samos, Greece where I just got my bottles filled for 5 euro.


Re: rear holding tank clogged

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ciao Gianni,

I do not know if this was the correct thing to do...BUT...I used a form of acid that was some solution of Hydrochloric acid on BeBe's aft tank valve. I poured it in the deck pump-out opening, let it sit for about 15-20 seconds, then worked the valve handle back and forth. I repeated twice, then flushed with baking soda and water solution to neutralize the acid. I believe once you get it working freely you may be able to pump some lithium grease into the valve to lubricate it.

If your tank is full, you will have to have it pumped out before you try above.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Giovanni Testa" <gtesta23@...> wrote:

Hi to all, I remember that some used to pour acid into the tank to dissolve the organic obstruction. But I don't remeber which, from which hole and how to work. Please, any suggestion may help.
All the best
Giovanni TESTA SM 428
Port Vila
Vanuatu


Re: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian,

That Square D pressure switch is really tricky to get adjusted correctly, but when you get it right it, it along with the pump Amel installed is so much better than any on-demand pump on the market anywhere.

There are two adjustments to the Square D switch. The center nut adjustment is for the cut-on pressure...be sure to adjust it first...and to back off of the other nut adjustment about 2 -3 turns before you adjust the center cut-on pressure nut.

When you are satisfied with the cut-on pressure adjustment, adjust the 2nd adjustment nut...this is the duration-on adjustment. For instance, it is too loose if the pump turns on as soon as you turn on water flow and off when you turn off water flow. Screw the nut clockwise to increase the duration...increasing duration pressurizes the accumulator tanks. BTW, the accumulator tank air pressure should be slightly less than your pressurized fresh water system pressure. If the pressurized fresh water system pressure is 40psi, the tank should be 30-34psi. Only check the accumulator tank air pressure with the fresh water system depressurized.

Don't get discouraged if you have to do this several times to get it where you want it...and because the switch is mechanical, it may require adjustment again. The process is fresh in my mind because after being off BeBe for 6 months, I had to go through the process.

I hope this helps.

Bill (Admiral, Texas Navy, Current Governor's Commission...I wish Texas had ships, but they would have to be Amels)
BeBe, SM2k #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:

Hi we simply changed to a 24 v on demand pump at 40psi from Shorflow problem solved. Got rid of the pesky tank too.

Sent from my iPad
Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Jul 30, 2013, at 2:33, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece

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rear holding tank clogged

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi to all, I remember that some used to pour acid into the tank to dissolve the organic obstruction. But I don't remeber which, from which hole and how to work. Please, any suggestion may help.
All the best
Giovanni TESTA SM 428
Port Vila
Vanuatu


Re: [Amel] SSB installation on Amel 54

Peter Forbes
 

john,

I have only really just twigged that you are a friend of Merlo who we saw
recently with Keith Outram en route as ever to Antigua.

I hope we meet you before too long.

My SSB is now fitted - now for the trial transmit - are you aboard and do
you have SSB can we test call - I can send my details - we will be on the
Amel 54 next week in Turkey.

Peter
Peter Forbes
Amel 54 #35 in Gocek Turkey

Best wishes
*Peter Forbes*
+44 (0) 7836 209730
ppsforbes@...


On 29 May 2013 10:00, Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

**


Hello Peter, Many years ago I crewed on a yacht doing the ARC and it had
an Icom with the fibre glass antenna. When we were half way across the
Atlantic Andrew Bishop, who now runs the ARC, was stuck by the gybing boom
and knocked unconscious. We got him down below and when the net came on his
father called up for medical advice. This was to put him in his bunk and
get him checked when we got to Barbados.
A short while later we heard Cornell talking with his office in the UK
trying to get media coverage for the ARCs life saving advice! The skipper,
Andrews father, then had to call his wife in the UK over the short wave
link to tell her that there was nothing to worry about in case she read
something in the press about her sons alleged perilous medical condition.
This was all done at long range over the fibreglass antenna so I had no
concerns about the one on my boat. I would have grave doubts about the
competence of your adviser. When the installation is complete get an
amateur radio operator to contact anyone at least 1000 miles away for a
radio check to make sure you have a good installation and put your mind at
rest.
The answer to Martins query is that using the port mizzen backstay works
very well for my ham radio. Getting the insulators and having them fitted
is expensive compared with getting a new base for your existing antenna. In
the unlikely event that someone should be holding on to the backstay when
someone transmits it would cause a nasty burn.
Good luck, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319 Malta

From: Peter Forbes
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 3:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Cc: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] SSB installation on Amel 54

Richard,

I finally bough my dream Amel 54 (hull no 35) from an Italian Rudi Peroni
in Rhodes last week.

I too am installing Icom 801 SSB. I was told the 2.4m long whip antenna
was only for receiving the DSC reply to a distress call and the main
antenna for tx/rx should be a separate either triticale or back stay long
antenna. Is that not correct.

The Icom 801 is just a marinised version of Icom 802.

Thanks for your help earlier too.

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730
mailto:ppsforbes%40gmail.com

On 28 May 2013, at 03:00, Richard03801 <mailto:richard03801%40yahoo.com>
wrote:

Hi you need to mount the tuner in starboard stern so you can get to the
ground foil. Best to use the whip Antenna. Next the back stay. Using the
triact means running a very long wire = lost power and poor reception.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On May 24, 2013, at 9:22, lior 555 <mailto:lior246%40gmail.com> wrote:

Hi

I bought an ICOM M802 with tuner AT-140, Pactor modem and I would like to
install it on the boat.
Maybe someone could help me with a few questions.
I would like to use the antenna between the mizzen and main mast. Would
you
advice it?
Can someone tell me where I should place the tuner and where is the best
place to install the main unit?

Thanks in advance for your help
Lior





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Re: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi we simply changed to a 24 v on demand pump at 40psi from Shorflow problem solved. Got rid of the pesky tank too.
Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Jul 30, 2013, at 2:33, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece


Re: Fresh Water Pump

seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
 

Hi Ian,
I had exactly the same problem, I stripped and rebuilt that pump seven times and never was able to find out what was wrong with it. The new service parts made no difference.
Reya were as usual hopeless and suggested that I purchase a new pump, not easy as I was in Brazil.
I replaced it with a Whale 24volt intelligent pump which I fitted to the bulkhead and has been a great success for the last three years giving more pressure and no more battery problems.
The extra space created by removing the original pump lets me store my five gallon oil drum and a spare Jerry can of clean diesel.
Jabsco also do a comprehensive of fresh water pumps. I chose Whale because they are fifteen miles from where live in Northern Ireland you get to talk to real people and their support service is excellent.
In fact have just ordered another as a spare.
Regards,
Trevor
Seafever
SM 425

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece


Re: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Ian, I tried to replace the impeller but couldn't get the front plate off.I decided to replace the pump with a Jabsco plastic job ( similar to those used by Amel for the heads ). Three years later I can say that it does the job just as well , no problems with pressure switches and about one third the price.
Our original heads pumps, now 13 years old, are still delivering.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Malta

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: sv_freespirit@...
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 06:33:12 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Fresh Water Pump

Ian Shepherd
 

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight discharge of the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced this impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece


Re: [Amel] anodes at the rudder

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

The life time depends one the situation of the boat in the harbor,
if you are near metallic boats with high leakage current it can fall to
6 month other wises 1 to 3 years on CottonBay ...
I check the anode every 6 months and change by annual care if more than
the half is loss.

Jean Luc on CottonBay SM 316
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Le 25/07/2013 19:43, Mark Erdos a écrit :

Hans,

This is quite easy to do. It can be done while in the water. I highly
suggest tying a piece of fishing line onto the bolt holding the anodes
once
it is loosened to prevent from dropping it.

Does any know the average life expectancy of the anodes on the rudder? I
also have to change mine about once a year (if not before).

Mark

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Hans-Joachim
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 12:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] anodes at the rudder

Dear Amelgroup,
our anodes at the rudder dissolve pretty fast (6 month). We´ll have to
check
why, but our actual question is: does anybody know if we can change the
anodes while beeing in the water, or is there a pfoblem with water coming
into the rudder or the like.

Thank you for any information

Hans Joachim, SM436

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Re: [Amel] cleaning props and hull hookah systems

Mark Erdos
 

Kent,



I use a set up similar to this:



http://www.browniesmarinegroup.com/third-lung-diving/kayak-diving-hose-kits/



This has worked well for me. If you have a compressor onboard, all the better. If not, any dive shop will fill the tank for not much money.



Mark

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 8:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] cleaning props and hull hookah systems





These systems are really expensive for what they are. Some years back I read about how to put your own system together for a few hundred US dollars, but I can't find the link now. Has anyone done this by buying component parts? I'd prefer to have a 24v pump or 220AC.
Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
Brunswick, GA, USA

From: Dr Jörg Steffen <joerg.steffen@... <mailto:joerg.steffen%40yahoo.com> >
To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Cc: Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@... <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> >
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] leaning props and hull


If you are interested in this thinks look at

www.freediver.de

It is more expensive but also much more sophisticated

Joerg Steffen

SV TAIKA

Am 28.07.2013 19:39, schrieb Anne and John Hollamby:

Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht
in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at
least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using
a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company
specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed
14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not
be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650.
More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

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Re: [Amel] cleaning props and hull hookah systems

karkauai
 

These systems are really expensive for what they are.  Some years back I read about how to put your own system together for a few hundred US dollars, but I can't find the link now.  Has anyone done this by buying component parts?  I'd prefer to have a 24v pump or 220AC.
Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
Brunswick, GA, USA

From: Dr Jörg Steffen <joerg.steffen@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Cc: Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] leaning props and hull

 
If you are interested in this thinks look at

www.freediver.de

It is more expensive but also much more sophisticated

Joerg Steffen

SV TAIKA

Am 28.07.2013 19:39, schrieb Anne and John Hollamby:

Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht
in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at
least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using
a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company
specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed
14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not
be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650.
More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Amel] leaning props and hull

Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
 

Hi, on Akwaaba we use the Power Dive 12v Deck Snorkel. We bought it in Australia.
Hope this helps.

Mike and Chris Smither Akwaaba santorin sloop

On 29 Jul 2013, at 09:08, Dr Jörg Steffen <joerg.steffen@...> wrote:

If you are interested in this thinks look at

www.freediver.de

It is more expensive but also much more sophisticated

Joerg Steffen

SV TAIKA

Am 28.07.2013 19:39, schrieb Anne and John Hollamby:

Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht
in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at
least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using
a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company
specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed
14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not
be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650.
More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] leaning props and hull

Dr Jörg Steffen <joerg.steffen@...>
 

If you are interested in this thinks look at

www.freediver.de

It is more expensive but also much more sophisticated

Joerg Steffen

SV TAIKA





Am 28.07.2013 19:39, schrieb Anne and John Hollamby:


Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht
in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at
least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using
a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company
specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed
14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not
be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650.
More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


anodes rudder

dr_hofschulte
 

Hallo Joel, Kent, Mark, Richard. Veit, Trevor,
thank you very much for your reply.
Hans-Joachim
Johanna-Amalthea SM 436 La Palma on the way to Brasilia


Calpeda air con seawater pump. and worn zinc anodes

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

I have now repaired the leaking impellor and fitted the new seals that Olivier at Amels included in my original spares kit in 2001.Fortunately the impeller was near perfect but was very hard to get off the shaft. I had to use a shaft puller to do it as levering and heating it did not free it.The ground wire was affected by sea water but still made a good connection to the grounding connected to the keel bolt. I shall replace the wire with a new one with tinned copper wire.
Zinc anodes waste rapidly in most marinas as a result of stray electricity from the marina wiring and/or other boats. This can be mostly avoided by installing a galvanic isolator in the marinas ground wire where it first enters the yacht. See Nigel Calders Mechanical and Electrical Handbook which is a must for any owner.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily


leaning props and hull

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed 14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650. More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

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Re: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Trevor

Many thanks for your assistance again.

Best regards
Colin

On 26/07/2013, at 9:26 PM, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@...> wrote:


Colin,
Same gearbox and ratios part no 3315002011, the cooler comes from Bowman who you will find on line, but should be supplied easily from a gearbox agent.
My box was supplied by Total Yacht Works Mazatlan Mexico, Bob Buuchanan, totalyachtworks@... it took six weeks to get it from Fort Lauderdale Florida to Mexico. It was a long time at anchor.
The quote was two weeks.
Best regards,
Trevor

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Hi Trevor

I am trying to source a new gearbox today and would greatly appreciate it
is you could let me know who supplied this and the other parts to you. We
got in touch with Maud at Amel yesterday with the same question, as well as
ZF in Australia and are waiting for responses however it may be quicker and
certainly cheaper to go through your supplier if they freight it
internationally. Were you able to find the exact same gearbox? My version
was the ZF Hurth Marine Arco Italy HBW 250H 2.8R with ratios A 2.8 & B 2.8.
I have the Yanmar 75HP 4JH3-TE motor not the 100HP.

Kind regards
Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k #332

can't


On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 3:13 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>wrote:

**


Colin,
The rust is normal and of little consequence. The hydraulic pump inside
the gearbox creates the pressure to open the brake pads when the engine is
running. Therefore if you have no hydraulic pressure the brake pads will
remain closed and firmly attached to the brake disk. Both brake pads should
be closed against the disk when the engine is stopped or as now when you
have no pressure if they are wearing unevenly
it is because the round cylinder that you can see that controls the pads
is out of alignment and can easily be straightened by packing a piece of
rubber between the cylinder and the angle iron frame it is mounted on.
If your pads are worn unevenly now is a good time to take them to a brake
shop and they will reline the pads. Be careful when removing them as there
is a little spring which will drop out.
I checked my Paypal account $ 3355.30 including a clutch plate which is
around $100 and hoses , fittings etc.
When removing the gearbox it would be a good idea to replace the rubber
bushes in the Vetus coupler and you will probably need a puller to get the
flange off the drive shaft. In my case I made one out of a scrap piece of
12mm steel plate and put a socket between the shaft and the plate and
tightened it up and eventually the flange surrendered.
Regards,
Trevor

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>
wrote:

Hi All

Just re-read Bill's comment and had another look at the Autoprop shaft
brake a short while ago. Interestingly when the engine is off the brake
caliper on the one side only, (ie. closest to the engine) remains presses
against the flywheel disc. Is this normal? When should the brake calipers
be presses against the wheel and when should they be pulled away from it?
Perhaps this was causing the problem however I am not sure how it could
do
so other than straining (& hence overheating) the gearbox if it had
remained clamped on the flywheel disc? Any experiences/comments about
this
would be greatly valued?

Also looking at the shaft brake system I am getting slight surface
rust/dust on it. Is there a good product I should be using to clean and
keep it rust free?

Fair winds

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k # 332



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 2:38 PM, Colin Streeter
<colin.d.streeter@>wrote:

Dear Joel, Bill, Trevor, Kent and All

Thank you all once again for the swift assistance and incredibly
helpful
advice at such a critical time for us all on board. This group is
simply
amazing and a huge comfort.

Based on the fact that we have a 3 week wait for a lift onto the hard
stand and for mechanical assistance, and on reading earlier postings we
decided to engage FWD gear and run slowly into our marina berth without
taking it out of gear at all (since we previously found it would not
re-engage gear once the gearbox had warmed up). Thankfully the gears
held
for the 15min slow run in and with the aid of the bow thruster and wind
direction we were able to dock safely without using reverse gear and
so she
is safely home.

In terms of all your advice I am now pretty sure we have the following
two
problems:

1) I think* Joel* is absolutely spot on with the tip that the shaft
bearings/seals have possibly failed and that sea water has recently got
into the drive and that this had pushed up through the oil filler cap.
I
will follow Joel's instructions precisely as well as an earlier
posting by
Gary Silver and others about how best to remove and replace the
bearings.
We will flush it with benzine and use a white filter cloth to check
that
nothing other than oil comes out. I am pretty sure this will be fine
afterwards as this is a new problem as of yesterday only and we have
hardly
motored at all in the past 6 months.

2) I feel *Trevor's* advice is exactly the problem with the ZF Hurth
HSW

250H gearbox. We checked the oil as Trevor suggested and the colour is
milky brown plus the level when cold is well above the high marker when
measured. Furthermore when cold the gears engage, and when
warm.....nothing
other than the noise of trying to engage in FWD or Reverse. Clearly the
gasket has failed and cooling water has recently entered the gear oil
chamber.

Our plan of action is to firstly have the gearbox removed and hopefully
reconditioned by ZF here in Australia, then once re-fitted drive her
around
to the hardstand crane to lift out and replace the shaft bearings.
Fortunately the gear box issue is new as I checked the gearbox oil
about 1
month ago and it was the same colour red ATF oil as we put in at last
service. Also I am hopeful of no damage to the shaft/Amel Drive since
we
have hardly used the engine as we always motor for only about 5 mins
only
before setting sail here in Brisbane.

Thanks again to all for the incredible assistance.

Kind regards

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #322



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:35 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@
...>wrote:

**


Hi Colin,
Have you checked the ATF in your gear box? If so what colour is it?
You
need to take the level when the yellow dipstick is unscrewed and
gently
resting on the gearbox casing.
If you are having gear selection problems due to not enough fluid ,or
sea
water ingress into the gearbox due to the ATF cooler failing, you
will be
able to engage gear when the gearbox is cool but you will hear the wet
clutches make a noise similar to something caught around the prop
when the
gearbox is too hot. You will get propulsion for a while then nothing
except
revs.
Another wild guess have you checked to ensure that the bolts on the
Vetus
coupler are intact?
I hope this will be of some help.
Good luck.
Trevor
Seafever
Sm 425
Mexico


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@>
wrote:

Hi Colin.
I think I'm the only other Amel owner to have a failure between the
transmission and the CDrive. The drive shaft between the transmission
and
the first 90 degree gear broke where it stepped down in size. I had a
machine shop in Puerto Rico repair the shaft for a fraction of what
new
parts from Amel would cost. There are some pics on the photos section
under
Kristy SM243 folder and if you search messages for "broken C Drive"
you'll
find a lengthy thread about it.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you have other questions?
Kent
SM 243 KRISTY
Brunswick GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>
wrote:

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to
me.
I will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but
cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop
rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the
shaft not
turning..

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals
from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a
local
bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part
numbers /
sizes for these.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop
shaft seals
have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The
saltwater has
emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid
in
the drive
system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this
increasing
fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you
resealed
the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came
in;
out
through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system
with plenty
of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by
directing the
exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids
before you
replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is
needed, please.
Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse
gear would
turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse?
Or