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Re: [Amel] Website Woes

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Stephanie,

Yes, Nordhavn does participate and has a very good owner's group. Unfortunately, I do not believe that the current management of Amel is similar to the Nordhavn management. Interestingly, I believe there are a lot of crossovers in the two company's customer base, but sadly I do not think that you will see Amel doing this.

I am hopeful that someone fluent in French will discuss some sort of share or merger with the French owner's group owner. I have an archive of what I considered the important photos and files from the Yahoo Group and regardless what Yahoo does with our current group, the messages that are currently there will likely be there for a long time. I think all of the other things are important such as the photos and files.

Bill
BeBe #387


On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 7:43 AM, Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...> wrote:
 

I agree with Bill about adapting the French site.  I searched for it even before I searched for the yahoo owners group.  Perhaps AMEL would be interested in facilitating the adaptation.  When we owned a Nordhavn. PAI, the company that manufactured Nordhavn, participated in the forum so as to keep its finger in the pie. 

Fair Winds!
" Bianca ", formerly Dikenec II
Santorin

Stephanie DiBelardino
Re: [Amel] Website Woes

Stephanie DiBelardino <stephiedib@...>
 

I agree with Bill about adapting the French site.  I searched for it even before I searched for the yahoo owners group.  Perhaps AMEL would be interested in facilitating the adaptation.  When we owned a Nordhavn. PAI, the company that manufactured Nordhavn, participated in the forum so as to keep its finger in the pie. 

Fair Winds!
" Bianca ", formerly Dikenec II
Santorin

Stephanie DiBelardino

On Oct 15, 2013, at 8:48 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

I agree completely with everything you said

One other suggestion:
If someone fluent in French and "website savvy" will contact chris"at"forum-voiliers-amel.net. Chris is the Owner of the French Amel Owners Group 
which has a proprietary website and a dedicated server.

My thinking is that it would be very easy for Cris to copy his current website and translate the 
structure into English, then have two sites, one French and one English. 
It could be possible to do this a number of other ways.

Also, Kent, you can search messages...really and the following is not a joke.
Yahoo did an extremely poor job of placing the search feature for messages.
I will try to explain:
If you have entered your name and password in the last 2 weeks go to step 4 below...if you have not entered your Yahoo name and password in 2 weeks: 
  1. click on the your name near the top right and click on sign out. This will take you to the Yahoo homepage. 
  2. Now click on Login and enter your name and password. This will take you to yet another Yahoo home page. 
  3. Now go to http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/info
  4. Next take notice of the search box near the mid, upper left. It has two buttons to the right of the search box. Do Not Use Those Buttons! 
  5. Enter a term in the search box like bow thruster and hit enter on your keyboard. 
  6. VIOLA! You have successfully searched messages.
Sorry there is not alpha search for photos or photo albums...you can only sort by oldest or newest.

Bill
BeBe

Bill
BeBe, #387


On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 7:30 PM, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,
First let me say that the group webpage is now useless to me for searching messages, or even posting a new topic.  I had to post this via regular email.  We've got to do something about this before all our info is lost completely.  I'm ready to fork out some money to hire someone (preferably someone who is a member and competent to guide us and make it work) to find another way to continue our "conversations" and be able to post pics and files...even to attach a pic to a message.
 
We've talked about this for a couple of months now, is anyone actually doing anything?  I am pretty computer illiterate, but I am willing to find someone who can do this for us.  Should I just forge ahead, or should we be more formal about it...take a vote or something?
 
I think everyone would be willing to pay a reasonable fee to participate, what's reasonable?  $10 per year? $25?  What about upfront investment...$25? $50?
 
I fear that a lot of our information has already disappeared into the ether.
 
Thanks,
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA
Re: [Amel] Website Woes

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

I agree completely with everything you said.

One other suggestion:
If someone fluent in French and "website savvy" will contact chris"at"forum-voiliers-amel.net. Chris is the Owner of the French Amel Owners Group 
which has a proprietary website and a dedicated server.

My thinking is that it would be very easy for Cris to copy his current website and translate the 
structure into English, then have two sites, one French and one English. 
It could be possible to do this a number of other ways.

Also, Kent, you can search messages...really and the following is not a joke.
Yahoo did an extremely poor job of placing the search feature for messages.
I will try to explain:
If you have entered your name and password in the last 2 weeks go to step 4 below...if you have not entered your Yahoo name and password in 2 weeks: 
  1. click on the your name near the top right and click on sign out. This will take you to the Yahoo homepage. 
  2. Now click on Login and enter your name and password. This will take you to yet another Yahoo home page. 
  3. Now go to http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/info
  4. Next take notice of the search box near the mid, upper left. It has two buttons to the right of the search box. Do Not Use Those Buttons! 
  5. Enter a term in the search box like bow thruster and hit enter on your keyboard. 
  6. VIOLA! You have successfully searched messages.
Sorry there is not alpha search for photos or photo albums...you can only sort by oldest or newest.

Bill
BeBe

Bill
BeBe, #387


On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 7:30 PM, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
 

Hi all,
First let me say that the group webpage is now useless to me for searching messages, or even posting a new topic.  I had to post this via regular email.  We've got to do something about this before all our info is lost completely.  I'm ready to fork out some money to hire someone (preferably someone who is a member and competent to guide us and make it work) to find another way to continue our "conversations" and be able to post pics and files...even to attach a pic to a message.
 
We've talked about this for a couple of months now, is anyone actually doing anything?  I am pretty computer illiterate, but I am willing to find someone who can do this for us.  Should I just forge ahead, or should we be more formal about it...take a vote or something?
 
I think everyone would be willing to pay a reasonable fee to participate, what's reasonable?  $10 per year? $25?  What about upfront investment...$25? $50?
 
I fear that a lot of our information has already disappeared into the ether.
 
Thanks,
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA
Re: [Amel] Osmosis protection

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I removed all of the antifouling in 2011 on BeBe, Super Maramu, which was delivered new in Jan 2003. Gelcoat is, at best, about 90% vapor proof, so normally there is a need for a barrier coat, however, not so on all Super Maramus.  Amel used a proprietary anti-osmotic behind the gelcoat which is 99% vapor proof. I am not sure if your Santorin has this coating behind the gelcoat or if it will require an epoxy "barrier coat" over the gelcoat. I believe that this depends on when the Santorin was manufactured and the resins that were available at that time. The only person that I know that can tell you this is Joel Potter.

Normally yards remove the antifouling and down to the fiberglass by scraping it off, either by hand or with an electrical scraper...sometimes a grinder. If you are not doing this yourself, I recommend supervision 100% of the time as you do not want them to damage the gel coat. Any scratch deep enough "that can be filled in the gel coat" should be filled with proper epoxy, then faired smooth.

If you do require a barrier coat, I recommend International Paints Gel Seal 200.

When you ask for recommendations for antifouling, you will get many because it seems that the product someone uses, they tend to support...human nature, people do not like being wrong. I have a friend that will pay $1,000+ to have his boat hauled then shop antifouling by price sometimes paying as little as $100/gallon...I certainly do not recommend this.

I always recommend International Paints Micron 77 for the tropics...and I use it exclusively around the world. We used Micron 66 then Micron 77 when 77 replaced 66. It will cost more than most antifoulings, but the one thing that is always true with antifouling is that you will get what you pay for. If you use Micron 77, be sure to read the product information sheet completely...do not use thinners and do not apply the layers too thick or too thin...if using a roller, you can create bubbles in the paint by using the wrong roller or rolling too fast. Read the product sheet and be an expert before your painter starts. He might think that you are a pain, but it is your boat, not his! A Super Maramu requires 20 liters.

I can walk through a marina and pick our Micron 77 users...the hulls will be cleaner. You might try this, but only if you are in the tropics. Walk through a marina and ask the people with the cleanest hulls what they use, when they applied it and the last time the hull was cleaned...that is the way to get your best answer.

Hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe, #387


On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 5:20 AM, <herbert@...> wrote:
 

dear all,

when we purchased the boat the surveyor recommended to renew the osmosis protection (put down all the old antifouling and paint it with epoxy...) when the boat is complete dry after winter storage. Has anyone experience with that? What material did you use, which tools...?

what antifouling is best for the amel in the carribean?

thx, herbert
santorin 120
Re: [Amel] Dessalator 60L/hr Membranes

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

Many of the Dessalator answers can be found at http://www.dessalator.com/ including your size and some instructions on replacement. I see you found the correct membrane. For all of you that do not know this, there is currently 1 manufacturer of these membranes in the world: Filmtec. Filmtec membranes will be found under other brand names like Spectra, but in the case of Spectra, the membrane is a special size and can only be bought at Spectra...this is why the Spectra membrane is $600. 

Back to Kent,
On the Amel Owners Group website if you go to Files (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files) >Dessalator Technical Info> REPLACING THE MEMBRANES.doc you will see the excellent write-up by Gary Silver for replacement of membranes for a 160l...it may help you.

Dessalator Photos:

Regarding the Water Heater, I do not believe the internal water pipe can be replaced. I know the electrical heating element can be. But even the electrical will be 30% of the cost of a new heater. I am fairly sure that you want to go with a new heater because removing the water heater is a pain and surely if you replaced one thing today, something else will go wrong tomorrow. Isotemp makes the exact model number of the 40 liter Amel installed in #387. They also make the same water heater with two water paths i.e. can heat the water with two engines, or cap off the 2nd path for use later. If I remember correctly, this was only about 10% more, but a special order item. If I had time, I would have replaced the original with this and plumbed it to the generator and the main engine. I did have some issues with the fit of the "exact model number" because Isotemp changed the model, but not the model number...see the following link for that information:


Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, #387


On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 9:54 PM, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:
 

I have found the info I was asking for.
The replacement membranes from FilmTec are part number SW30-2521 (2.5inch dia, 21inch length)
 
I found them for $178 each plus shipping at ROwater Systems Inc.
 
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
Osmosis protection

Herbert Lackner
 

dear all,

when we purchased the boat the surveyor recommended to renew the osmosis protection (put down all the old antifouling and paint it with epoxy...) when the boat is complete dry after winter storage. Has anyone experience with that? What material did you use, which tools...?

what antifouling is best for the amel in the carribean?

thx, herbert
santorin 120
Re: [Amel] Diesel control

Pitugolf Yahoo <pitugolf@...>
 

Dear Kent,

The truth is that we are so lucky having Bill knowing so well our boats and in top of that answering  at that speed and so clear!!!

That you again :)




Le 14 oct. 2013 à 20:52, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> a écrit :

 

See, Pitu, if you ask a guy who knows his stuff, you get an answer like Bill's.  If you ask a guy like me who has trouble tying his shoes, you get an answer like mine.
Kent

From: Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Diesel control
 
Pitu,

The Electric Fuel Gauge is a 12 Volt DC gauge with a spring toggle switch that is normally OFF. Move the switch to ON and the fuel gauge is ON.

There are 2 inspection ports on top of the stainless steel fuel tank in the engine room. The fuel gauge sending unit is installed on the forward inspection port. There are two wires going to the sending unit from the fuel switch/gauge. Do the following tests:

In the engine room:
  1. Near the top of the fuel tank, the two wires from the switch/gauge are spliced to the two wires from the fuel tank sending unit with insulated Male/Female Spade Connectors. Pull these connectors apart.
  2. Using  a voltmeter on the two wires which are coming from the switch/gauge measure the voltage with the "fuel check switch" near the gauge in the OFF position...it should read 0. 
  3. Next measure the volts on the same wires with the switch ON...it should read about 12 Volts DC. 
  4. If this checks out, everything is good except possibly the stem and float part of the measuring system...but 1 more test:
  5. Reconnect the two wires, except leave the plastic insulator pulled back to allow for Voltmeter probe contact.
  6. Using  a voltmeter on the Spade Connectors, measure the voltage with the "fuel check switch" near the gauge in the ON position. 
  7. If the tank is full it should read 12 volts...if it is half full 6 volts, it it is 1/4 full 3 volts.
If all of above checks out, the problem is with the float and stem...and could be something simple like the float is stuck.
  1. Disconnect the insulated Male/Female Spade Connectors.
  2. Remove the 8 bolts on the inspection hatch on the fuel tank.
  3. Take care that the rubber gasket does not fall into the tank
  4. You will have to slightly rotate the plate as you pull up exposing the approximately 1 meter stem and float.
  5. If your problem is visual, possibly you can repair.
  6. If it is not visual, you will need to take the stem and float to a shop that specializes in fuel tanks.
Hope this helps.

Bill
On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 1:37 PM, <pitugolf@...> wrote:
 
Deal all,
The original counter of diesel of my SM stopped working and shows empty tank however it&apos;s almost full does someone have the same problem? How can be repaire?

Thank you in advance from Leros,

Pitu
S.Y. PITU
Re: ParaSailor

Dave_Benjamin
 

Hi Terry and Dena,


 We've built a variety of light air cruising sails for many boats. As a sailmaker who has owned and cruised an Amel, I just don't see the need for that sort of gimmick. The stock balooner arrangement works well for long downwind legs. We can build light air reaching sails that fly from their own foil-less furler. For that matter we could use a foil-less furler for the twins and not rely on the luff foil for anything but flying the genoa. Most of the time if you get overpowered while reaching with a light air sail up, it's simple enough to head down 10 or 20 degrees. If the wind is such that it's happening frequently, it's time to put the light air sail away as you'll make good speed with the genoa.


I know the parasailor is popular with some of the wealthy European cruising boat owners, but I just can't comprehend why someone would bother with one for an Amel. If I had a much more tender racer-cruiser, and cash burning a hole in my pocket, maybe I'd consider it. 






---In amelyachtowners@..., <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Sitting in a cruising seminar with Jimmy Cornell this weekend. Lot's of reference to the exceptional performance of the Parasailor Spinnaker.
Is their any reason why one could not be used on a Super Maramu?
Would the be more preferable than using the Balooner or are they different use cases?

Terry&Dena
SV Libby
#196
San Diego
Dessalator 60L/hr Membranes

karkauai
 

I have found the info I was asking for.
The replacement membranes from FilmTec are part number SW30-2521 (2.5inch dia, 21inch length)
 
I found them for $178 each plus shipping at ROwater Systems Inc.
 
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
ParaSailor

islandbwoy4434
 

Sitting in a cruising seminar with Jimmy Cornell this weekend. Lot's of reference to the exceptional performance of the Parasailor Spinnaker.

Is their any reason why one could not be used on a Super Maramu?
Would the be more preferable than using the Balooner or are they different use cases?

Terry&Dena
SV Libby
#196
San Diego
Dessalator 60 L/hr Membranes

karkauai
 

Hi again,
I'm sure this info is available on the group somewhere, but I can't access anything older than a month or so by searching.
 
My heat exchanger in my water heater failed.  Water kept finding it's way into the Yamar coolant when the fresh water pump was on, and coolant found it's way into the water when the pump was off.  I guess the coolant destroyed my membranes, because now the best TDS I see is well over 600 ppm.  First I'm going to have to clean the whole fresh water system.  There were some great instructions on the site at one time, but I'm not able to access them.  If anyone has them saved, please send them on.
 
I am going to replace the membranes, and need to know the part number and source.  I've looked online at the AirWaterIce Inc site that Gary recommended and I think that the FilmTec SW30-2521 looks like the closest fit, but don't want to buy until I'm sure.  It's a 60 L/hr unit, not the 160L/hr.
 
Thanks in advance.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Brunswick, GA,USA
Website Woes

karkauai
 

Hi all,
First let me say that the group webpage is now useless to me for searching messages, or even posting a new topic.  I had to post this via regular email.  We've got to do something about this before all our info is lost completely.  I'm ready to fork out some money to hire someone (preferably someone who is a member and competent to guide us and make it work) to find another way to continue our "conversations" and be able to post pics and files...even to attach a pic to a message.
 
We've talked about this for a couple of months now, is anyone actually doing anything?  I am pretty computer illiterate, but I am willing to find someone who can do this for us.  Should I just forge ahead, or should we be more formal about it...take a vote or something?
 
I think everyone would be willing to pay a reasonable fee to participate, what's reasonable?  $10 per year? $25?  What about upfront investment...$25? $50?
 
I fear that a lot of our information has already disappeared into the ether.
 
Thanks,
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick, GA, USA
Re: [Amel] Diesel control

karkauai
 

See, Pitu, if you ask a guy who knows his stuff, you get an answer like Bill's.  If you ask a guy like me who has trouble tying his shoes, you get an answer like mine.
Kent

From: Bill & Judy Rouse
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Diesel control
 
Pitu,

The Electric Fuel Gauge is a 12 Volt DC gauge with a spring toggle switch that is normally OFF. Move the switch to ON and the fuel gauge is ON.

There are 2 inspection ports on top of the stainless steel fuel tank in the engine room. The fuel gauge sending unit is installed on the forward inspection port. There are two wires going to the sending unit from the fuel switch/gauge. Do the following tests:

In the engine room:
  1. Near the top of the fuel tank, the two wires from the switch/gauge are spliced to the two wires from the fuel tank sending unit with insulated Male/Female Spade Connectors. Pull these connectors apart.
  2. Using  a voltmeter on the two wires which are coming from the switch/gauge measure the voltage with the "fuel check switch" near the gauge in the OFF position...it should read 0. 
  3. Next measure the volts on the same wires with the switch ON...it should read about 12 Volts DC. 
  4. If this checks out, everything is good except possibly the stem and float part of the measuring system...but 1 more test:
  5. Reconnect the two wires, except leave the plastic insulator pulled back to allow for Voltmeter probe contact.
  6. Using  a voltmeter on the Spade Connectors, measure the voltage with the "fuel check switch" near the gauge in the ON position. 
  7. If the tank is full it should read 12 volts...if it is half full 6 volts, it it is 1/4 full 3 volts.
If all of above checks out, the problem is with the float and stem...and could be something simple like the float is stuck.
  1. Disconnect the insulated Male/Female Spade Connectors.
  2. Remove the 8 bolts on the inspection hatch on the fuel tank.
  3. Take care that the rubber gasket does not fall into the tank
  4. You will have to slightly rotate the plate as you pull up exposing the approximately 1 meter stem and float.
  5. If your problem is visual, possibly you can repair.
  6. If it is not visual, you will need to take the stem and float to a shop that specializes in fuel tanks.
Hope this helps.

Bill
On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 1:37 PM, <pitugolf@...> wrote:
 
Deal all,
The original counter of diesel of my SM stopped working and shows empty tank however it&apos;s almost full does someone have the same problem? How can be repaire?

Thank you in advance from Leros,

Pitu
S.Y. PITU
Re: [Amel] Diesel control

karkauai
 

Mine quit working years ago, I just rely on the dip stick in the filling port.
Kent
SM243 Kristy

From: "pitugolf@..."
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 9:37 AM
Subject: [Amel] Diesel control
 
Deal all,
The original counter of diesel of my SM stopped working and shows empty tank however it&apos;s almost full does someone have the same problem? How can be repaire?

Thank you in advance from Leros,

Pitu
S.Y. PITU
Re: [Amel] Diesel control

Mark Erdos
 

Bill,

How the heck did you get so smart on this stuff! Have you taken BeBe
completely apart and reassembled her again? So glad you are on this
group!!!!!

Mark
SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us
Re: [Amel] Diesel control

Pitugolf Yahoo <pitugolf@...>
 


Dear Bill,

Thank you so much for your quick answer-help. We will check the 2 options and hopefully the issue will be solved :)

I will let you know.

Kind regards,

Maria (Pitu :))





Le 14 oct. 2013 à 17:42, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> a écrit :

 

Pitu,

The Electric Fuel Gauge is a 12 Volt DC gauge with a spring toggle switch that is normally OFF. Move the switch to ON and the fuel gauge is ON.

There are 2 inspection ports on top of the stainless steel fuel tank in the engine room. The fuel gauge sending unit is installed on the forward inspection port. There are two wires going to the sending unit from the fuel switch/gauge. Do the following tests:

In the engine room:
  1. Near the top of the fuel tank, the two wires from the switch/gauge are spliced to the two wires from the fuel tank sending unit with insulated Male/Female Spade Connectors. Pull these connectors apart.
  2. Using  a voltmeter on the two wires which are coming from the switch/gauge measure the voltage with the "fuel check switch" near the gauge in the OFF position...it should read 0. 
  3. Next measure the volts on the same wires with the switch ON...it should read about 12 Volts DC. 
  4. If this checks out, everything is good except possibly the stem and float part of the measuring system...but 1 more test:
  5. Reconnect the two wires, except leave the plastic insulator pulled back to allow for Voltmeter probe contact.
  6. Using  a voltmeter on the Spade Connectors, measure the voltage with the "fuel check switch" near the gauge in the ON position. 
  7. If the tank is full it should read 12 volts...if it is half full 6 volts, it it is 1/4 full 3 volts.
If all of above checks out, the problem is with the float and stem...and could be something simple like the float is stuck.
  1. Disconnect the insulated Male/Female Spade Connectors.
  2. Remove the 8 bolts on the inspection hatch on the fuel tank.
  3. Take care that the rubber gasket does not fall into the tank
  4. You will have to slightly rotate the plate as you pull up exposing the approximately 1 meter stem and float.
  5. If your problem is visual, possibly you can repair.
  6. If it is not visual, you will need to take the stem and float to a shop that specializes in fuel tanks.
Hope this helps.

Bill


On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 1:37 PM, <pitugolf@...> wrote:
 

Deal all,

The original counter of diesel of my SM stopped working and shows empty tank however it's almost full does someone have the same problem? How can be repaire?

Thank you in advance from Leros,

Pitu
S.Y. PITU
Re: [Amel] Diesel control

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Pitu,

The Electric Fuel Gauge is a 12 Volt DC gauge with a spring toggle switch that is normally OFF. Move the switch to ON and the fuel gauge is ON.

There are 2 inspection ports on top of the stainless steel fuel tank in the engine room. The fuel gauge sending unit is installed on the forward inspection port. There are two wires going to the sending unit from the fuel switch/gauge. Do the following tests:

In the engine room:
  1. Near the top of the fuel tank, the two wires from the switch/gauge are spliced to the two wires from the fuel tank sending unit with insulated Male/Female Spade Connectors. Pull these connectors apart.
  2. Using  a voltmeter on the two wires which are coming from the switch/gauge measure the voltage with the "fuel check switch" near the gauge in the OFF position...it should read 0. 
  3. Next measure the volts on the same wires with the switch ON...it should read about 12 Volts DC. 
  4. If this checks out, everything is good except possibly the stem and float part of the measuring system...but 1 more test:
  5. Reconnect the two wires, except leave the plastic insulator pulled back to allow for Voltmeter probe contact.
  6. Using  a voltmeter on the Spade Connectors, measure the voltage with the "fuel check switch" near the gauge in the ON position. 
  7. If the tank is full it should read 12 volts...if it is half full 6 volts, it it is 1/4 full 3 volts.
If all of above checks out, the problem is with the float and stem...and could be something simple like the float is stuck.
  1. Disconnect the insulated Male/Female Spade Connectors.
  2. Remove the 8 bolts on the inspection hatch on the fuel tank.
  3. Take care that the rubber gasket does not fall into the tank
  4. You will have to slightly rotate the plate as you pull up exposing the approximately 1 meter stem and float.
  5. If your problem is visual, possibly you can repair.
  6. If it is not visual, you will need to take the stem and float to a shop that specializes in fuel tanks.
Hope this helps.

Bill


On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 1:37 PM, <pitugolf@...> wrote:

 

Deal all,

The original counter of diesel of my SM stopped working and shows empty tank however it's almost full does someone have the same problem? How can be repaire?

Thank you in advance from Leros,

Pitu
S.Y. PITU
Diesel control

pitugolf@...
 

Deal all,

The original counter of diesel of my SM stopped working and shows empty tank however it's almost full does someone have the same problem? How can be repaire?

Thank you in advance from Leros,

Pitu
S.Y. PITU
Re: [Amel] dinghy for a 54

Christoph Hartung <Hartung@...>
 

Hi Jeff,
it has a rubber bottom with wooden floor. The floor panels are 3 peaces. When we store it we take the panels out and roll the flat dinghy. This way it fits very well and easy in the stern locker. To take it in and out of the locker we use the besan halyard. But we only store it when we leave the boat somewhere or having a long open water passage, because it's some kind of work. If you are interested I can find out the brand and where to purchase.
BTW the manufacturer does offer the color of the dinghy as your AMEL, as beige with Bordeaux red stripes.

Christoph, 54#59

Von: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Im Auftrag von jmkraus@...
Gesendet: Montag, 14. Oktober 2013 13:31
An: amelyachtowners@...
Betreff: Re: AW: [Amel] dinghy for a 54


Christoph, I assume you have a RIB with one solid bottom, as compared to a Zodiac 310, with its flat individual bottom panels. Doing the metric to feet conversion, your raft is roughly the size I'm looking at. Upon deflation, you can manage to get it in and out of you storage locker? What type of dinghy is it, and do you know the listed weight?
BTW, thanks to everyone who offered me a kind welcome.
Jeff

----- Original Message -----
From: Christoph Hartung
Date: Monday, October 14, 2013 4:43 am
Subject: AW: [Amel] dinghy for a 54
To: "amelyachtowners@..."

Dear Jeff,



since we decided to use a dinghy which is at least 3m long (now
3,20m) with a solid bottom, we bought for our 54 electric
operated davids.

This was one of the best decisions we did when we purchased our
54 in 2007. The boat is now in the Caribbean and we use the
dinghy every day. Moving it up and done with the engine fitted,
because we need to prevent it from thefts.

Yes, it is an expensive installation, but if you travel
worldwide and you may be not the youngest any more, this
installation is a must!



Christoph

AMEL 54, #59





Von: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Im Auftrag von Kent Robertson

Gesendet: Sonntag, 13. Oktober 2013 21:09

An: amelyachtowners@...

Betreff: Re: [Amel] dinghy for a 54





Congratulations Jeff! And welcome to the family.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Brunswick, GA USA



Sent from my iPhone



On Oct 13, 2013, at 12:48 PM,
wrote:




I recently purchased Joel's 54, "Hollis." She is now "Spirit."
I'm proceeding slowly with additions to Spirit, and one of the
first additions will be an RIB. I've done some preliminary
homework, and thought I'd see if any 54 owners had input
regarding their choices of one, and their thoughts on what RIB
was the best fit. I was interested in the AB Ventus, and
wondered about fit. I will be back on Spirit in a week or so to
measure the stern locker, but for now, I'll go with any input
from other 54 owners.



Thanks in advance. Jeff Kraus
Re: [Amel] dinghy for a 54

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

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