Date   

Re: [Amel] Chain Counter

BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Bonjour,

I had also to buy a replacement one in France last year.

I paid 81 Euros from a french dealer (not Pochon).

IFM is a german company. You can have a look at their web site.

Regards

Yves

SM Blue Marine

BM2
bluemarinemartin@gmail.com
2010-04-08
----- Message reçu -----
De : Barry
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-08, 00:49:19
Sujet : [Amel] Chain Counter


Hi Guys, This may have been covered before somewhere here but can anyone provide me with some information on how to diagnose problems associated with my chain counter not working. I have two zeros on the gauge and I suspect the problem is at the magnetic switching device at the windlass.

There are three wires based upon the diagrm on the switch, Brown ( positive), Black which seems to connect via the switching mechanisim to positive as well and a blue wire to negative. I have tried to waver a magnet past the switch with no effect. The switch is manufactured by Etector IFM Electronics with possble identifcation numbers IB5076 IB-3020-BNKG. Any clues?

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Chain Counter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Barry & Robyn:

Look in the files section under "chain counter information" for info on your sensor. There is a small orange LED on the sensor that can be viewed by looking into the small hole on the side of the gray plastic housing on the side of the windlass. If the orange LED isn't lit up (i.e. extinguished) then the sensor is bad and will need to be replaced. It is held in place by two small circumferential dabs of RTV (silicone sealant) and when you replace it you should only use a little RTV otherwise it is hard to get the sensor out of its housing. Apply the RTV, slide the sensor into the housing (having previously threaded the wires into the windlass aft cover), and secure the sensor so the LED can be seen through the port side viewing hole and the face of the sensor has clearance to the magnetic nub on the windlass hub.

Does that make sense. Wiring should match color for color what was previously there.
My sensor happened to fail the day before I arrived in Guadeloupe and I purchased a replacement from Pochon. Seems like it was about 250 US$. Probably available for less through other vendors, but it was just very convenient to buy from Pochon and they were very helpful in guiding my troubleshooting.

Best of luck, Gary Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

-Regarding:

There are three wires based upon the diagrm on the switch, Brown ( positive), Black which seems to connect via the switching mechanisim to positive as well and a blue wire to negative. I have tried to waver a magnet past the switch with no effect. The switch is manufactured by Etector IFM Electronics with possble identifcation numbers IB5076 IB-3020-BNKG. Any clues?

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


File space is critical in the files section of this website

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

To the moderator and All,

The file space allocated for our FILES section is 100mb. Currently we are at 97% of our 100MB limit. I noticed this when I tried to uplaod a 5mb service manual for the 24 volt Leece-Neville 175 amp alternator. I am sure there are some of you that would want this.

First of all, I have a hard time believing that Yahoo has put such a small limit on their grooups...probably the reason that Google constantly kicks Yahoo's ass!

Secondly, I suppose we have do some house cleaning. This will involve each of us taking a look at our postings to the FILES section as well as the moderator taking a look at older files posted there by inactive members.

In the mean time, if anyone would like a copy of the service manual for the 24 volt Leece-Neville 175 amp alternator, email me at bill"at"svbebe.com.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia
Blogspot Blog: www.svbebe.com


Chain Counter

Barry <seagasm@...>
 

Hi Guys, This may have been covered before somewhere here but can anyone provide me with some information on how to diagnose problems associated with my chain counter not working. I have two zeros on the gauge and I suspect the problem is at the magnetic switching device at the windlass.

There are three wires based upon the diagrm on the switch, Brown ( positive), Black which seems to connect via the switching mechanisim to positive as well and a blue wire to negative. I have tried to waver a magnet past the switch with no effect. The switch is manufactured by Etector IFM Electronics with possble identifcation numbers IB5076 IB-3020-BNKG. Any clues?

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


Re: Batteries and monitor

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Jeff:

I looked at the Balmar device and it appears that it only protects the starting battery. Am I misconstruing the specifications on it?

The bottom line on all of this is; we have an electrical SYSTEM. It consists of multiple components that have varying specifications and all components must act in harmony. You can't charge AMG batteries like they are flooded deep cycle lead acid batteries. One thing that Amel does very well is harmonizing their SYSTEMS. If you change from maintenance free (sealed flooded lead acid batteries, not necessarily deep cycle type) to another type of battery with different charging characteristics (e.g. AGM batteries) then you must have a voltage regulator and/or battery chargers that are appropriate to those batteries. The Link/Zantrax monitor just tells you what voltage/amperage etc is going to and from the main house battery bank. It doesn't tell you anything about the health of your starting battery, and it doesn't control anything as you have already discovered. The charging voltage and current for AGM batteries is different than for flooded batteries. That difference must be understood and taken into consideration when changing the voltage regulator on the main engine alternator or the chargers on the genset. This is also true when you set up a solar power SYSTEM to charge the batteries. You mush have solar power regulators for the type of battery you have so as not to cook your batteries.

Fortunately, most new charger/inverter/voltage regulators are "SMART" in that they can be programmed to the type of battery that you have. The better ones have temperature sensing technology to adjust charge rate base on the battery temperature. The bottom line is that you must think in a global system mentality when dealing with things electric or indeed things non-electric.

All the best in you global system thinking,

Gary Silver


Re: Batteries and monitor

Jeff
 

While not an Amel owner (yet) might I humbly suggest the following device from Balmar: http://www.balmar.net/page20-Duocharge.html

This regulator not only senses charge requirements but has temperature sensing capabilities as well which serve to avoid the battery meltdown situation you described.

I installed one in my cutter last year and it works very well. I can provide contact info for the installer who designed the system if needed.

Jeff

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "kilkea_2" <kilkea2@...> wrote:

Thanks Gary and Yves for the help. As you see I am not any good at electical stuff. After your comments today I found an electrical teck who although did not speak english did come to the boat and found the voltage regulator in the 175 amp alternator was unservicable. He put a tester on the batteries and we have one that was ruined. So we now have the alternator off line and he is looking at getting us a new voltage regualtor from the States. He believes that he can get a replacement battery in Quito? I appreciate the guick help and hope to meet you both some day.


Re: [Amel] Batteries and monitor

Eric Freedman
 

Open all the batteries and check if the water is covering the plates. Yes
they are supposed to be sealed batteries but they are not.

My battery tested all my very poor batteries as good the battery tester only
applies a load for 15 second.



When I got to the Usa with my boat I bought a second 175 amp alternator
completely rebuilt and same a the factory for less than 300 dollars. It is a
very common truck alternator.

Eric



Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite









_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kilkea_2
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 9:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Batteries and monitor





Thanks Gary and Yves for the help. As you see I am not any good at electical
stuff. After your comments today I found an electrical teck who although did
not speak english did come to the boat and found the voltage regulator in
the 175 amp alternator was unservicable. He put a tester on the batteries
and we have one that was ruined. So we now have the alternator off line and
he is looking at getting us a new voltage regualtor from the States. He
believes that he can get a replacement battery in Quito? I appreciate the
guick help and hope to meet you both some day.


Re: [Amel] Re: Isotemp water heater

Eric Freedman
 

Jose,

I have doe it many times both ways in error.



The generator 50 cycle power takes over when the shore power is also
connected.



Bueno suerte

Eric







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jose
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Isotemp water heater





Eric, Have you ever turned on your generator on while connected to
shorepower while in the USA? Are you sure it works when both systems come
with different frequency and voltage? If so, which one keeps going the
generator or the shorepower?. It is reasuring to know that the boat comes
with such a safety system.

Thank you for the info.

Jose
Ipanema SM2000 #278

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Jose,

'There is a automatic transfer switch located in a white European box
behind
the generator.

It has time delay relay in it that allows the either shore power or
generator power to enter. Never Both.

Otherwise I agree with you 100 percent usa vs European power. I have been
running my 50 amp plug without the white "neutral" from the time I got the
boat in 2002 and no problems.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jose
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 1:33 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Isotemp water heater





Eric, After going over this several times I concluded that
European 240V is identical to USA 110V it has a live, a neutral and a
ground
just like we do, except for the difference in voltage and frequency 50 Hz
instead of 60Hz. For us in the US to get 220v, we have to take two live
lines from a 3 phase source each at 110v with respect to true neutral but
220V between them. So, in the USA with 220V both lines are live it does
not
matter what color you chose. You can test it with a volt meter by
comparing
shore power with generator.

An important lesson from this is to make sure never to turn on the
generator
when connected to shore power!!. I don't know what will happen but it may
not be nice.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema MS2k 278
Boston

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Bill,

I thought the European AC had no return ( neutral) are you getting 5
volts
between the case and both 220 volt leads Brown and blue, to the heater
case. ? do you have a galvanic isolator installed?



Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 8:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Isotemp water heater







Jeff,

Jeff wrote..."I believe the basic problem with my water heater is the
same
as yours: a small short in the element (as I said in my previous
posting,
I
measured almost 5 volts between the case and the return or negative
wire).
I
intend to replace the element when I return to the States in a couple of
weeks."

I think you've got it and from what you wrote, I believe you are
connected
properly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia












[Amel] Re: Isotemp water heater

Jose <jgvenegas@...>
 

Eric, Have you ever turned on your generator on while connected to shorepower while in the USA? Are you sure it works when both systems come with different frequency and voltage? If so, which one keeps going the generator or the shorepower?. It is reasuring to know that the boat comes with such a safety system.

Thank you for the info.

Jose
Ipanema SM2000 #278

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Jose,

'There is a automatic transfer switch located in a white European box behind
the generator.

It has time delay relay in it that allows the either shore power or
generator power to enter. Never Both.

Otherwise I agree with you 100 percent usa vs European power. I have been
running my 50 amp plug without the white "neutral" from the time I got the
boat in 2002 and no problems.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jose
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 1:33 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Isotemp water heater





Eric, After going over this several times I concluded that
European 240V is identical to USA 110V it has a live, a neutral and a ground
just like we do, except for the difference in voltage and frequency 50 Hz
instead of 60Hz. For us in the US to get 220v, we have to take two live
lines from a 3 phase source each at 110v with respect to true neutral but
220V between them. So, in the USA with 220V both lines are live it does not
matter what color you chose. You can test it with a volt meter by comparing
shore power with generator.

An important lesson from this is to make sure never to turn on the generator
when connected to shore power!!. I don't know what will happen but it may
not be nice.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema MS2k 278
Boston

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@> wrote:

Bill,

I thought the European AC had no return ( neutral) are you getting 5 volts
between the case and both 220 volt leads Brown and blue, to the heater
case. ? do you have a galvanic isolator installed?



Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 8:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Isotemp water heater







Jeff,

Jeff wrote..."I believe the basic problem with my water heater is the same
as yours: a small short in the element (as I said in my previous posting,
I
measured almost 5 volts between the case and the return or negative wire).
I
intend to replace the element when I return to the States in a couple of
weeks."

I think you've got it and from what you wrote, I believe you are connected
properly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Batteries and monitor

kilkea_2 <kilkea2@...>
 

Thanks Gary and Yves for the help. As you see I am not any good at electical stuff. After your comments today I found an electrical teck who although did not speak english did come to the boat and found the voltage regulator in the 175 amp alternator was unservicable. He put a tester on the batteries and we have one that was ruined. So we now have the alternator off line and he is looking at getting us a new voltage regualtor from the States. He believes that he can get a replacement battery in Quito? I appreciate the guick help and hope to meet you both some day.


Re: [Amel] Spanish winter moorings

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Hi,
 
I spent one year (Jan 06-Jan 07) in Almerimar. One of the cheapest but well maintained Marina. For the english speaking yachties, there is a well organised community with activities almost every day, a daily VHF net for information...
 
The closest airport is Almeria, but all cheap flight connect to Malaga, almost 4 hours drive, there is a bus service from Malaga to El Ejido, Almerimar being a burrow of this small town.
I succeeded renting a car from a lady which prooved much more economical than renting from commercial firms. Some yachties purchase second hand cars which seem to be easy to resell to other yachties...
 
I plan to return to the Med, but if i can find a space, i would like to spend the winter in Barcelona, where, i was told, there is a very lively yachties and of course the Town...
 
Serge D. Tremblay, V Opera, Mango 51

Note: À VENDRE - FOR SALE
LAETITIA II
info: www.columbia37.com & www.laetitia-l.com

--- En date de : Lun, 5.4.10, richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com> a écrit :


De : richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com>
Objet : Re: [Amel] Spanish winter moorings
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: lundi 5 avril 2010 21 h 23


Hi you might look at Almerimar for winter layup they are cheap for in water and well protected. They can also haul you there. The only down side is transportation out of there.
We also found that Corsica,  Porto Vecchio next to Bonoficco is a good place for the winter. And very cheap when you consider for US2600 you slip, water, power and a sometime internet connection.

Good luck
Richard and Joan on SM209

------Original Message------
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins
Sender: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
ReplyTo: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Spanish winter moorings
Sent: Apr 5, 2010 09:39

  Hi Y'all, One winter in UK waters has been one too many. Although we set off for Scotland in May we are heading for the Med for next winter. We aim to leave Pen Azen afloat in a secure marina on the Spanish Med coast and live on board for 2-3 weeks at a time to get some winter sun.We have had a good tip for Sant Carles but are also wondering if anyone has any experience of Cartagena on the SE tip of Spain. The Costa del Sol seems to have innumerable marinas but also more than its fair share of Saharan sand. If anyone has any tips we would be interested to hear. Ciao,ciao, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Hamble ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ http://clk.atdmt. com/UKM/go/ 195013117/ direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

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Re: [Amel] SSB Radio

karkauai
 

Thanks, Gary, that's just the kind of thing I wanted to hear.  I'll do some reading to convince myself, but was thinking I'd use the whip and have the triatic rigged so that I can use it if the whip gets broken or otherwise unusable.  Since I haven't gotten to the point of using weatherfax yet, it'll be nice to have both antennae available to try with different functions.
Thanks again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243

--- On Tue, 4/6/10, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] SSB Radio
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 6, 2010, 1:24 PM


 





Hi Kent:

My triatic has insulators as installed by Amel as original equipment and not as
optional equipment. I did not request this installation when I bought the boat
new so I am guessing that it was standard equipment on most Amel SMs. The
coax cable for this runs down the mizzen mast and to the general area of the
nav station. I found it coiled behind the panel above the hanging locker at the
nav station.

I have heard, but am uncertain of the specifics, that receiving is best done with
a horizontal antenna and transmitting is best done with a vertical antenna. In
fact, someone on this forum once described hooking his SSB up with a relay
that switched between the triatic and whip antennas when in the receive vs
transmit mode. I personally use the triatic antenna for my weather fax as it
gave me better signal to noise performance than the Furuno dedicated active
antenna. I have had excellent send and receive performance with my Amel
supplied 8 meter whip antenna. I don't think you can go wrong with that.
The advantage of a backstay antenna is that you don't have to put up with
the whip antenna hanging off the back of the boat, there is less windage
and less deck level clutter. One down side of a backstay antenna that I have
read about is that if you are dismasted you generally loose your emergency
radio antenna. As usual with boats there is a trade off in everything you do.

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335

P.S. I remove my whip antenna and stow it below during hurricane season/haul out.

To do this you use a small screwdriver to pry the 1.5 inch diameter cover plates off the
base of the antenna, one on each side of the base. They are usually secured with a
little RTV to hold them in place but it you look you will see a small cutout for the
screwdriver to be inserted. Next, while supporting the antenna, use a punch to push
the stainless pin out that holds the base of the antenna to the deck fitting. You can
push it out either side, whichever side is the easiest. CAUTION: Be careful not to
loose that pin and make sure you are supporting the antenna while you do this as
once the pin is removed the antenna is disconnected from its mounting base
The coax cable attached to the base of the antenna is retained to the antenna
with a couple of Allen head (hex head) screws and if you loosen them slightly
the coax can be disengaged from its receptacle. You can unscrew the two halves
of the antenna, if you desire, to aid in stowing it below decks. The
tang shaft in the deck mount is spring loaded and it can be a bit fiddly to
re-mount the antenna but if you pull the tank upward, use a pointed pick to
hold it in position while you apply the antenna base and use various sized
metal punches placed through the antenna base/tang etc, you can then
drive (push) the mounting pin back into place. Sounds complicated but it is
easier to do than to describe.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SSB Radio

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Kent:

My triatic has insulators as installed by Amel as original equipment and not as
optional equipment. I did not request this installation when I bought the boat
new so I am guessing that it was standard equipment on most Amel SMs. The
coax cable for this runs down the mizzen mast and to the general area of the
nav station. I found it coiled behind the panel above the hanging locker at the
nav station.

I have heard, but am uncertain of the specifics, that receiving is best done with
a horizontal antenna and transmitting is best done with a vertical antenna. In
fact, someone on this forum once described hooking his SSB up with a relay
that switched between the triatic and whip antennas when in the receive vs
transmit mode. I personally use the triatic antenna for my weather fax as it
gave me better signal to noise performance than the Furuno dedicated active
antenna. I have had excellent send and receive performance with my Amel
supplied 8 meter whip antenna. I don't think you can go wrong with that.
The advantage of a backstay antenna is that you don't have to put up with
the whip antenna hanging off the back of the boat, there is less windage
and less deck level clutter. One down side of a backstay antenna that I have
read about is that if you are dismasted you generally loose your emergency
radio antenna. As usual with boats there is a trade off in everything you do.

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335

P.S. I remove my whip antenna and stow it below during hurricane season/haul out.

To do this you use a small screwdriver to pry the 1.5 inch diameter cover plates off the
base of the antenna, one on each side of the base. They are usually secured with a
little RTV to hold them in place but it you look you will see a small cutout for the
screwdriver to be inserted. Next, while supporting the antenna, use a punch to push
the stainless pin out that holds the base of the antenna to the deck fitting. You can
push it out either side, whichever side is the easiest. CAUTION: Be careful not to
loose that pin and make sure you are supporting the antenna while you do this as
once the pin is removed the antenna is disconnected from its mounting base
The coax cable attached to the base of the antenna is retained to the antenna
with a couple of Allen head (hex head) screws and if you loosen them slightly
the coax can be disengaged from its receptacle. You can unscrew the two halves
of the antenna, if you desire, to aid in stowing it below decks. The
tang shaft in the deck mount is spring loaded and it can be a bit fiddly to
re-mount the antenna but if you pull the tank upward, use a pointed pick to
hold it in position while you apply the antenna base and use various sized
metal punches placed through the antenna base/tang etc, you can then
drive (push) the mounting pin back into place. Sounds complicated but it is
easier to do than to describe.


Re: [Amel] Batteries and monitor

BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Hello,

A battery monitor is a monitor, to monitor/survey the parameters : Current, voltage, Ah in and out.....
In no way it is a regulator.
The regulator, in charge of regulating the current delivered according to the state of the batteries, is either incorporated in the alternator or a separate gear connected to it.
Your problem probably comes from the regulator; Is it adapted to your type of batteries (AGM).

Regards

Yves

SM Blue Marine



BM2
bluemarinemartin@gmail.com
2010-04-06
----- Message reçu -----
De : kilkea_2
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-06, 18:44:30
Sujet : [Amel] Batteries and monitor


Hello we have just arrived in the Galapagos islands and have a problem with our batteries or more likely with the battery monitor? We had to motor for a couple of days to get down here and found the battery bank (12) batteries got very hot!! We replaced the batteries last year with AGM's and this would be the first time we have had the engine running for any length of time. It would seem that the alternators keep putting out power to the batteries even though they are full. I would think that the battery monitor would protect the batteries but it would not seem so in this case. There are 20 parameters on the Xantrex battery monitor and would like to know if anyone has the correct settings for our connfiguration? Or if anyone has had a like experience? One of the batteries top is wavey now from the overheating but to our surprise the system seems to be working well. We are concerned because we are moving south to NZ and will need to run the motor more often. I can always remove the belts off the alternators and use the generator charging system but do not want to resort to do that. Any thoughts would be appreciated. David and Marian on s/v Kilkea II 2005 SM #466



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Batteries and monitor

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi David and Marian:

I am not sure which of the many Xantrex battery monitors are fitted on your SM #446, however, I believe that I can assure you that they are all just that, battery monitors. They do not in any way act as charging controllers. The charging regimens for AGMs is different than for flooded acid batteries and while I have never had AGMs I know that their charging profile is different. I believe that you need to watch the charging voltage put out by the alternator on your main engine and verify that it is within the documentation for your particular batteries. You don't need to take the belt off your alternator to prevent output, just rig a switch in the field line. A alternator without any applied field will produce no output. Perhaps others can comment on various voltage regulators that are appropriate for use with AGM batteries.

Pretty generalized I know but perhaps this will point you in a direction.

All the best, Gary Silver
Amel SM #335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "kilkea_2" <kilkea2@...> wrote:

Hello we have just arrived in the Galapagos islands and have a problem with our batteries or more likely with the battery monitor? We had to motor for a couple of days to get down here and found the battery bank (12) batteries got very hot!! We replaced the batteries last year with AGM's and this would be the first time we have had the engine running for any length of time. It would seem that the alternators keep putting out power to the batteries even though they are full. I would think that the battery monitor would protect the batteries but it would not seem so in this case. There are 20 parameters on the Xantrex battery monitor and would like to know if anyone has the correct settings for our connfiguration? Or if anyone has had a like experience? One of the batteries top is wavey now from the overheating but to our surprise the system seems to be working well. We are concerned because we are moving south to NZ and will need to run the motor more often. I can always remove the belts off the alternators and use the generator charging system but do not want to resort to do that. Any thoughts would be appreciated. David and Marian on s/v Kilkea II 2005 SM #466


Batteries and monitor

kilkea_2 <kilkea2@...>
 

Hello we have just arrived in the Galapagos islands and have a problem with our batteries or more likely with the battery monitor? We had to motor for a couple of days to get down here and found the battery bank (12) batteries got very hot!! We replaced the batteries last year with AGM's and this would be the first time we have had the engine running for any length of time. It would seem that the alternators keep putting out power to the batteries even though they are full. I would think that the battery monitor would protect the batteries but it would not seem so in this case. There are 20 parameters on the Xantrex battery monitor and would like to know if anyone has the correct settings for our connfiguration? Or if anyone has had a like experience? One of the batteries top is wavey now from the overheating but to our surprise the system seems to be working well. We are concerned because we are moving south to NZ and will need to run the motor more often. I can always remove the belts off the alternators and use the generator charging system but do not want to resort to do that. Any thoughts would be appreciated. David and Marian on s/v Kilkea II 2005 SM #466


Re: Santorin Engine Room Blowers

Craig Briggs
 

Thanks Attilio and Eric - 4" it is and perhaps they're more properly called "Ventilation Blowers".

Both of my old Jabsco Model 35440's gave up the ghost and I'm going to replace them with Model 35770. According to Jabsco's catalogue the 35440's are only rated for intermittant duty and a 1000 hour life whereas the 35770's are rated for continuous duty and a 5000 hour life. Cost (12v model) is $103 vs. $147.

And thanks, Attilio, for your kind offer, but we'll be there in about 3 weeks and there's really no need for you to stop by. Will contact you then and make a date to get together.

Cheers, Craig

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...> wrote:

Craig,
blowers are .. 4".
... next week ... I can pass thru Monfalcone ...
Fair winds
Attilio


Re: [Amel] Santorin Engine Room Blowers

Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
 

Craig,
can you tell me what exactly are the blowers for the engine room? excuse my ignorance
Actually I'm not in Cagliari, where Sisila is, but maybe Enio of Earendil, who is often in Ancona during weekends, where his boat is, can take a measure.
If the blowers are those flexible pipes going around in the engine room, to ventilate it, I think they are 4".
Anyhow, nex week I am going to Trieste, and if you need I can pass thru Monfalcone and make a stop there: tell me.
Fair winds
Attilio




________________________________
Da: sv Sangaris <sangaris@aol.com>
A: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Inviato: Lun 5 aprile 2010, 23:03:14
Oggetto: [Amel] Santorin Engine Room Blowers

 
I'm ordering replacement blowers for the engine room but can not recall if they are 3" or 4" (75mm or 100mm). Is anyone aboard who would be so kind as to check that measurement for me, please?
Craig & Katherine Santorin #68 "Sangaris"
... heading back to the boat in Monfalcone, IT at the end of April







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Santorin Engine Room Blowers

Eric Freedman
 

The blowers in my Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite is a jabsco 250 cfm
model345440----10

Fair Winds

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sv Sangaris
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 5:03 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Santorin Engine Room Blowers





I'm ordering replacement blowers for the engine room but can not recall if
they are 3" or 4" (75mm or 100mm). Is anyone aboard who would be so kind as
to check that measurement for me, please?
Craig & Katherine Santorin #68 "Sangaris"
... heading back to the boat in Monfalcone, IT at the end of April


Re: [Amel] Spanish winter moorings

richard03801@...
 

Hi you might look at Almerimar for winter layup they are cheap for in water and well protected. They can also haul you there. The only down side is transportation out of there.
We also found that Corsica, Porto Vecchio next to Bonoficco is a good place for the winter. And very cheap when you consider for US2600 you slip, water, power and a sometime internet connection.

Good luck
Richard and Joan on SM209

------Original Message------
From: Ian & Judy Jenkins
Sender: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
ReplyTo: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Spanish winter moorings
Sent: Apr 5, 2010 09:39

  Hi Y'all, One winter in UK waters has been one too many. Although we set off for Scotland in May we are heading for the Med for next winter. We aim to leave Pen Azen afloat in a secure marina on the Spanish Med coast and live on board for 2-3 weeks at a time to get some winter sun.We have had a good tip for Sant Carles but are also wondering if anyone has any experience of Cartagena on the SE tip of Spain. The Costa del Sol seems to have innumerable marinas but also more than its fair share of Saharan sand. If anyone has any tips we would be interested to hear. Ciao,ciao, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Hamble ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ http://clk.atdmt. com/UKM/go/ 195013117/ direct/01/ We want to hear all your funny, exciting and crazy Hotmail stories. Tell us now [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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