The prop rebuild is a time consuming project and is best done on a

with a vise.

I bought the parts from AB marine for about $900- they rented me the tools
(cost $350- for 50 dollars-upon return of the tools) I think it will take
one person a day plus to do it.

The hardest part is to remove the ball bearing race as it is held in by
grease and the tolerances are very tight. It takes a lot of time and

to remove them.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

Baar
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...





Good morning Gary,

If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is so dirty...
Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think I should make an effort
and dive far in the bay.

The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know about the last time the
bearing or blade seals were changed.

I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip, may be I should

it before.

I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single) Racor fuel filter.

don't think, but don't know if I have restriction.
I will check the valve.
I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation? Manufacturer? I am not
familiar with that... Are they permanently mount?

Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I could brag

2800 rpm!!!

I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned!

Thanks again for your email, let me know about these suction gauge...
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@...

<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> > wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM






























Alexander:



A couple of thoughts:



Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and
tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol
clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty
water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I
subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything
but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the
prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to
clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour.
Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent to
get it completely smooth, including the hub area.



While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are
good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly
rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there
is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate
around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but
can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for
is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They
should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly
move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop
was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were changed,
and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A
prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations
while powering.



I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled
as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip
seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube
your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you
should consider disassembling the prop for bearing
inspection.



Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel
filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction
such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the
fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open.
Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if
the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap
and easy things to check.



Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely.
There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from
AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators
on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy.




Sincerely,



Gary Silver



This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money and




--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Alex" <uster@> wrote:

Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and

turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air
bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html

Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good.

At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher).

Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very

desapointed.

I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea?

Could that be the prop not unfolding totally?

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter

.
SPAMfighter has removed 1893 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?

Try a free scan!

That is the ground connect solenoid for STARTING the engine,
Look for a small relay from yanmar near the starting solenoid.
Eric

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Shepherd
Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 1:13 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

OK thanks Eric.I have changed the main solenoid with the rubber
covered
stop button, but it had no effect.

Good luck with the surgery.

Ian SM414 Crusader (2003)

On 14/08/2013 08:16, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the

ignition to the

stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I

left the boat

with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years ,

however, I

believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid

(valeo)

with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe

that was the

problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but

I think

that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the

wiring> diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

] On Behalf Of Ian

Shepherd> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM

To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a

resistor, was

only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to

take the

risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in.

Bearing in

mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion

problem> in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it

all

together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

] On Behalf Of

Colin.d.streeter

Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to

take you up

on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@...

<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>

.
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd

wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar

100 HP engine

that does not always shut down immediately when the red

stop button is

pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring

you to hold

the

button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to

incorporate

a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but

it did not

help. After years of checking every cable, and

incidentally meeting

several non Amel owners with the same engine and same

problem, I

concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like

a surge

prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off

unit located

inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with

marine

trade

piracy it was of course only available with the complete

shut down

assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to

get a new

rubber

key cover for the control panel which used to only be

available if you

bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using

two 12V

relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop

button and the

engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the

ignition off resets

the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big

improvement.> > >

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let

me know and I

will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter

.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?

Try a free scan!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Success!
To close this thread out.
Greg Prior and David Sheppard (AB Marine and Bruntons respectively) re-worked our A6 prop based upon the extensive imperial data we provided.

The prop was installed last week and Libby was off on a 5 day excursion to Catalina Island. Here is my email to Geoff Prior.

'Good morning Geoff, I wanted to close the loop with you on the prop work.
The prop was installed last week by Rick our local diver.
I took Libby on a 5 day excursion to Catalina Island which turned out to be a 179 mile round trip with no wind! (motoring there and back)
I am pleased to report that I was easily able to exceed 2000 RPM at cruising speed.
Noted speeds were 7.6 knots at 2500 RPM and WOT 3100 RPM at 9+ knots.
I know this took a little work on everyones part, and I would like to thank both you for your excellent support and help.
Terry "

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "islandbwoy4434" <terencesingh@...> wrote:

Just installed a reconditioned Turbo charger on Libby's (#196) TMD22. The Turbo was indeed seized solid as was the waste gate actuator.
Prior to installing the re-conditioned unit we noted that the highest RPM we could achieve was 2000. This gave us a boat speed of aprox 6-7 knots depending on conditions. We have the factory feathering Auto prop installed.
Having read the associated threads on this forum I fully expected post installation of the refurbished unit to achieve upwards of 2800 RPM and an increase in top end boat speed.
Alas, not the case.
From a standing start the engine will rev up to 2300 RPM until the feathering prop builds it maximum thrust and the RPM's drop down the 2000 RPM and 6-7 knots of speed.

I would like to know if I am missing something here with respect to my expectations.
Can anyone offer up some wisdom?

Terry&Dena
SV Libby #196
San Diego

The prop rebuild is a time consuming project and is best done on a

with a vise.

I bought the parts from AB marine for about $900- they rented me the tools
(cost $350- for 50 dollars-upon return of the tools) I think it will take
one person a day plus to do it.

The hardest part is to remove the ball bearing race as it is held in by
grease and the tolerances are very tight. It takes a lot of time and

to remove them.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

Baar
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...





Good morning Gary,

If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is so dirty...
Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think I should make an effort
and dive far in the bay.

The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know about the last time the
bearing or blade seals were changed.

I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip, may be I should

it before.

I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single) Racor fuel filter.

don't think, but don't know if I have restriction.
I will check the valve.
I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation? Manufacturer? I am not
familiar with that... Are they permanently mount?

Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I could brag

2800 rpm!!!

I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned!

Thanks again for your email, let me know about these suction gauge...
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@...

<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> > wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM






























Alexander:



A couple of thoughts:



Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and
tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol
clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty
water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I
subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything
but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the
prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to
clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour.
Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent to
get it completely smooth, including the hub area.



While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are
good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly
rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there
is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate
around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but
can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for
is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They
should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly
move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop
was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were changed,
and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A
prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations
while powering.



I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled
as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip
seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube
your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you
should consider disassembling the prop for bearing
inspection.



Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel
filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction
such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the
fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open.
Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if
the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap
and easy things to check.



Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely.
There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from
AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators
on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy.




Sincerely,



Gary Silver



This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money and




--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Alex" <uster@> wrote:

Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and

turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air
bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html

Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good.

At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher).

Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very

desapointed.

I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea?

Could that be the prop not unfolding totally?

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter

.
SPAMfighter has removed 1893 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?

Try a free scan!

Hi Alexander:

Here is a good article that shows the principles involved.

http://proboat.com/attention-to-detail/170-the-vacuum-gauge-tool.html

West Marine has the gauges (although $99 seems steep to me).

http://catalogs.westmarine.com/WebProject.asp?CodeId=7.7.1.25&BookCode=wmm13&pagelabel=597#

You might try Grainger.com All the Racor filter housings I have seen have a port for the gauge. 1/8th inch pipe thread as I recall, but double check to make sure.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...> wrote:

Good morning Gary,

If the Marina was cleaner, I would dive myself, but it is so dirty...
Not much clean water in "Clear Lake", but I think I should make an effort and dive far in the bay.

The propeler was lubed last November. I don't know about the last time the bearing or blade seals were changed.

I was planning on disassembling it in Nov before my trip, may be I should do it before.

I recently changed both Engine fuel filter and (single) Racor fuel filter. I don't think, but don't know if I have restriction.
I will check the valve.
I don't have suction gauge, any recommendation? Manufacturer? I am not familiar with that... Are they permanently mount?

Thanks for the compliment in cleaning the turbo... I wish I could brag about 2800 rpm!!!

I will looked at the "Mouse Milk" you mentionned!

Thanks again for your email, let me know about these suction gauge...
Sincerely, Alexandre


--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/21/13, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo desapointment...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:10 AM






























Alexander:



A couple of thoughts:



Find some clear water, dive on your prop and visually and
tactilely verify for yourself that the prop is bristol
clean!. I hired a diver once to clean mine due to the nasty
water in the marina, and after he said it was clean, I
subsequently inspected it myself and found it was anything
but clean. I find that even minimal incrustation on the
prop takes me at least 30 minutes of scuba/snuba time to
clean properly. Heavier growth can easily consume an hour.
Use a putty knife and some 3M scotch bright or equivalent to
get it completely smooth, including the hub area.



While you are down there verify that your prop bearings are
good. This requires a bit of a fine touch. Just slowly
rotate each blade, one at a time, manually and see if there
is any binding, gritty feeling, or roughness as they rotate
around. This obviously is easier done when hauled out but
can be done underwater. What you are looking (feeling) for
is any sign that the bearings in the blades are gone. They
should be silky smooth as they rotate and should certainly
move freely. On that note, when was the last time the prop
was lubed, when was the last time the bearings were changed,
and when was the last time the blade seals where changed? A
prop blade with bad bearings can give strange vibrations
while powering.



I do not allow any pressure washing of my prop when hauled
as the high pressure can easily blow past the blade lip
seals and water contaminate the bearings. When you lube
your prop if you have water exit the vent hole then you
should consider disassembling the prop for bearing
inspection.



Are you absolutely certain that you don't have a fuel
filter (there are two) restriction or fuel line restriction
such as a bad fuel tank shut off valve? Verify that the
fuel tank shut off valve is properly rigged and fully open.
Have you put a suction gauge on your fuel filter to see if
the filter is restrictive to flow? Just a couple of cheap
and easy things to check.



Good work on cleaning and verifying the turbo spun freely.
There is a product called Mouse Milk (that you can get from
AircraftSpruce.com) that we use on the waste gate actuators
on aircraft engines to keep them limber. Cheap and easy.




Sincerely,



Gary Silver



This evaluation won't cost you much in time or money and




--- In amelyachtowners@...,
"Alex" <uster@> wrote:

Last week, cleant exhaust elbow, heat exchanger and

turbo, I was able to make it spin using a compressed air
bottle. http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html

Had a diver scrubbing the prop, said it felt good.

At the dock reach 2500 rpm (did not try higher).

Saturday in the bay, could not exceed 2200 rpm... Very

desapointed.

I could feel some vibrations or wabbling. Any idea?

Could that be the prop not unfolding totally?

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Seabrook, Texas, USA