Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo)
with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think
that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all
together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of

Colin.d.streeter

Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@...

<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>
<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>

<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold

the

button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to

incorporate

a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine

trade

piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new

rubber

key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Does anyone have a good source for the transmission oil cooler for the 100 Turbo Yanmar? Make, Model & Price.

Eric, I think I remember you saying that you were buying one or going to buy one. Did you and where?

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not 'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@ <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in

gear?

**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need

checking:

***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the

culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the

prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that

just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I

removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs

to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is

slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or

advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1751 of my spam emails to date.

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Try a free scan!

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not 'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in

gear?

**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need

checking:

***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the

culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the

prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that

just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I

removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs

to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is

slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or

advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




_____

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Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Trevor

Many thanks for your assistance again.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 26/07/2013, at 9:26 PM, "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@...> wrote:

Colin,
Same gearbox and ratios part no 3315002011, the cooler comes from Bowman who you will find on line, but should be supplied easily from a gearbox agent.
My box was supplied by Total Yacht Works Mazatlan Mexico, Bob Buuchanan, totalyachtworks@... it took six weeks to get it from Fort Lauderdale Florida to Mexico. It was a long time at anchor.
The quote was two weeks.
Best regards,
Trevor

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Hi Trevor

I am trying to source a new gearbox today and would greatly appreciate it
is you could let me know who supplied this and the other parts to you. We
got in touch with Maud at Amel yesterday with the same question, as well as
ZF in Australia and are waiting for responses however it may be quicker and
certainly cheaper to go through your supplier if they freight it
internationally. Were you able to find the exact same gearbox? My version
was the ZF Hurth Marine Arco Italy HBW 250H 2.8R with ratios A 2.8 & B 2.8.
I have the Yanmar 75HP 4JH3-TE motor not the 100HP.

Kind regards
Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k #332

can't


On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 3:13 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@>wrote:

**


Colin,
The rust is normal and of little consequence. The hydraulic pump inside
the gearbox creates the pressure to open the brake pads when the engine is
running. Therefore if you have no hydraulic pressure the brake pads will
remain closed and firmly attached to the brake disk. Both brake pads should
be closed against the disk when the engine is stopped or as now when you
have no pressure if they are wearing unevenly
it is because the round cylinder that you can see that controls the pads
is out of alignment and can easily be straightened by packing a piece of
rubber between the cylinder and the angle iron frame it is mounted on.
If your pads are worn unevenly now is a good time to take them to a brake
shop and they will reline the pads. Be careful when removing them as there
is a little spring which will drop out.
I checked my Paypal account $ 3355.30 including a clutch plate which is
around $100 and hoses , fittings etc.
When removing the gearbox it would be a good idea to replace the rubber
bushes in the Vetus coupler and you will probably need a puller to get the
flange off the drive shaft. In my case I made one out of a scrap piece of
12mm steel plate and put a socket between the shaft and the plate and
tightened it up and eventually the flange surrendered.
Regards,
Trevor

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>
wrote:

Hi All

Just re-read Bill's comment and had another look at the Autoprop shaft
brake a short while ago. Interestingly when the engine is off the brake
caliper on the one side only, (ie. closest to the engine) remains presses
against the flywheel disc. Is this normal? When should the brake calipers
be presses against the wheel and when should they be pulled away from it?
Perhaps this was causing the problem however I am not sure how it could

do

so other than straining (& hence overheating) the gearbox if it had
remained clamped on the flywheel disc? Any experiences/comments about

this

would be greatly valued?

Also looking at the shaft brake system I am getting slight surface
rust/dust on it. Is there a good product I should be using to clean and
keep it rust free?

Fair winds

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k # 332



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 2:38 PM, Colin Streeter
<colin.d.streeter@>wrote:

Dear Joel, Bill, Trevor, Kent and All

Thank you all once again for the swift assistance and incredibly

helpful

advice at such a critical time for us all on board. This group is

simply

amazing and a huge comfort.

Based on the fact that we have a 3 week wait for a lift onto the hard
stand and for mechanical assistance, and on reading earlier postings we
decided to engage FWD gear and run slowly into our marina berth without
taking it out of gear at all (since we previously found it would not
re-engage gear once the gearbox had warmed up). Thankfully the gears

held

for the 15min slow run in and with the aid of the bow thruster and wind
direction we were able to dock safely without using reverse gear and

so she

is safely home.

In terms of all your advice I am now pretty sure we have the following

two

problems:

1) I think* Joel* is absolutely spot on with the tip that the shaft

bearings/seals have possibly failed and that sea water has recently got
into the drive and that this had pushed up through the oil filler cap.

I

will follow Joel's instructions precisely as well as an earlier

posting by

Gary Silver and others about how best to remove and replace the

bearings.

We will flush it with benzine and use a white filter cloth to check

that

nothing other than oil comes out. I am pretty sure this will be fine
afterwards as this is a new problem as of yesterday only and we have

hardly

motored at all in the past 6 months.

2) I feel *Trevor's* advice is exactly the problem with the ZF Hurth

HSW

250H gearbox. We checked the oil as Trevor suggested and the colour is
milky brown plus the level when cold is well above the high marker when
measured. Furthermore when cold the gears engage, and when

warm.....nothing

other than the noise of trying to engage in FWD or Reverse. Clearly the
gasket has failed and cooling water has recently entered the gear oil
chamber.

Our plan of action is to firstly have the gearbox removed and hopefully
reconditioned by ZF here in Australia, then once re-fitted drive her

around

to the hardstand crane to lift out and replace the shaft bearings.
Fortunately the gear box issue is new as I checked the gearbox oil

about 1

month ago and it was the same colour red ATF oil as we put in at last
service. Also I am hopeful of no damage to the shaft/Amel Drive since

we

have hardly used the engine as we always motor for only about 5 mins

only

before setting sail here in Brisbane.

Thanks again to all for the incredible assistance.

Kind regards

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #322



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:35 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@

...>wrote:

**

Hi Colin,
Have you checked the ATF in your gear box? If so what colour is it?

You

need to take the level when the yellow dipstick is unscrewed and

gently

resting on the gearbox casing.
If you are having gear selection problems due to not enough fluid ,or

sea

water ingress into the gearbox due to the ATF cooler failing, you

will be

able to engage gear when the gearbox is cool but you will hear the wet
clutches make a noise similar to something caught around the prop

when the

gearbox is too hot. You will get propulsion for a while then nothing

except

revs.
Another wild guess have you checked to ensure that the bolts on the

Vetus

coupler are intact?
I hope this will be of some help.
Good luck.
Trevor
Seafever
Sm 425
Mexico


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@>
wrote:

Hi Colin.
I think I'm the only other Amel owner to have a failure between the

transmission and the CDrive. The drive shaft between the transmission

and

the first 90 degree gear broke where it stepped down in size. I had a
machine shop in Puerto Rico repair the shaft for a fraction of what

new

parts from Amel would cost. There are some pics on the photos section

under

Kristy SM243 folder and if you search messages for "broken C Drive"

you'll

find a lengthy thread about it.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you have other questions?
Kent
SM 243 KRISTY
Brunswick GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>

wrote:

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to

me.

I will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but

cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop
rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the

shaft not

turning..

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals

from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a

local

bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part

numbers /

sizes for these.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop

shaft seals

have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The

saltwater has

emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid

in

the drive

system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this

increasing

fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you

resealed

the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came

in;

out

through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system

with plenty

of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by

directing the

exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids

before you

replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is

needed, please.

Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse

gear would

turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse?

Or

Straight forward question:

If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your Super Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the max prop fitted? The more responses the better!

Graham
SM 140 Sula
Hong Kong

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo) with
the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think that
was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem





Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all together.

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Colin.d.streeter
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>

<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>

<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold

the

button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to

incorporate

a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new

rubber

key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ian,

I had a similar problem when I first bought Kimberlite.

When I arrived in Lisbon the Amel tech ran a wire from the ignition to the
stop solenoid.

I do not like patch jobs. When I arrived in the canaries, I left the boat
with the Amel rep there and went back to the USA.

I am not too sure about what he did after all these years , however, I
believe next (forward) to the starter negative ground solenoid (valeo)

the black button top is a smaller solenoid (black) I believe that was the
problem. It has been 11 years and I could be totally wrong but I think

was the problem. When I am in Kimberlite next I will check the wiring
diagram for the engine.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 3:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Eric,

the resistor being the cause of the problem, if it is a resistor, was
only a maybe. To take it out would have meant butchering the moulded
cable and maybe causing more of a problem so I decided not to take the
risk and use relays to simulate the button being held in. Bearing in
mind that the stop time is very variable, it maybe a sticktion problem
in the shut-off mechanism inside the pump.

I will copy you the details but allow me a few days to put it all

Ian SM 414 (2003) Crusader

On 13/08/2013 17:14, Sailorman wrote:

Ian,

Why did you not just change the resistor?

I would also like to se the wiring diagram and details.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of

Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 4:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Yanmar Stop Problem

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up
on your
offer to send the details. Our email address is
Colin.cruisingpoint@... <mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>

<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com>

<mailto:Colin.cruisingpoint%40gmail.com> .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold

the

button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to

incorporate

a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine

piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new

rubber

key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
<http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1832 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC?
<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

For now 2200 rpm.

But Sunday, I cleaned the turbo (as well as exhaust elbow, intercooler, etc.), and this morning had a diver cleaning the prop.

So hopefully Saturday, I really hope to get more RPM (would be happy with 2800)

Only things I wasn't sure to test or adjust is the rod to the "Waste Gate Valve". It moved freely using a spanner.

Picture of the turbo cleaning on:
http://nikimat.com/volvo_tmd22_turbo.html

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA


--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/13/13, Veit Mueller <veitm@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel] Volvo TMD22 max rpm
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2013, 12:42 PM
















 









2900 with everything clean.

Veit

SM215 ATMAN



Sent from my vm iPad



On Aug 13, 2013, at 8:45 AM, "Graham" <crwggb@...>
wrote:



> Straight forward question:

>

> If you have or have had a Volvo TMD22 in your Super
Maramu, what is the max RPM you ever achieved with the max
prop fitted? The more responses the better!

>

> Graham

> SM 140 Sula

> Hong Kong

>

>