I was thinking of having a Jib halyard clutch fitted to the main mast to free up the main winch on that side - like the mizzen halyard. Does anyone have any experience doing this or know of any problems with this.

Thanks

Andrew
Ronpische, SM472
Port Leucate

Hi Ian
We have the same issue on Island Pearl and would like to take you up on your offer to send the details. Our email address is Colin.cruisingpoint@... .
Many thanks
Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Currently at anchor at beautiful Tangalooma, Brisbane. Australia
On 13/08/2013, at 5:01 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

For the past 10 years I have been plagued with a Yanmar 100 HP engine
that does not always shut down immediately when the red stop button is
pressed. It can take up to 40 seconds to stop, requiring you to hold the
button throughout this time. Amel sent a modification kit to incorporate
a relay to help keep the volts up on the stop circuit but it did not
help. After years of checking every cable, and incidentally meeting
several non Amel owners with the same engine and same problem, I
concluded that the problem _may_ lie with what looks like a surge
prevention resistor in the wire that goes to the shut off unit located
inside the fuel pump, or the shut off valve itself.

I contacted Yanmar for a new resistor, but in keeping with marine trade
piracy it was of course only available with the complete shut down
assembly at a cost of around £500! A bit like trying to get a new rubber
key cover for the control panel which used to only be available if you
bought an entire new key switch!

Anyway for £5 I have found a compromise work around using two 12V
relays. Now I just need to momentarily press the stop button and the
engine will shut down in its own time. Turning the ignition off resets
the system. Not ideal in a fire situation, but a big improvement.

If anyone would like details on how to wire this up, let me know and I
will email the details.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Aegean

Ian,

I heard that the water maker guy in Marmaris, Turkey machined some stainless steel endcaps for someone.

You might drop Riza at Emek Marine (Turkey Amel Rep and Dessalator Rep) an email and ask if he can do this in his machine shop...they are masters with stainless and have a very large machine shop. I will be there tomorrow and I have a full set of used endcaps I can give him for a pattern. His email is cagdas"at"emekmarin.com

If he can do this, maybe more of us would be interested.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Anchored near Gocek, Turkey

For the third time now, one of the membrane end caps has sprung a leak on my 160 l/h water maker. I only noticed this when hunting for some grease to give to another boat as the far end of the membranes is close to the portside hull. Some some storage boxes kept in that area were full of salt water. As before, the leak has occurred where the steel cross tube enters the end caps. This push fit arrangement seems at best amateurish and Dessalator are well aware of the problem for when I ordered new caps from them the last time, they said that the new black material would not fail. Sadly not.

I think it's time to get something more robust made to cure this problem. End caps with proper screw fittings and a connecting hose or pipe come to mind. Has anyone done this or maybe found ready made caps that will do the job please?

Ian Shepherd SM 414 (2003) Crusader - Northern Sporades

In the course of thoroughly inspecting Kimberlite , I noticed that the
bracket on the boom that the main sheet block hangs from was cracked inside
the boom.



The brackets attached to the underside of the boom are in a track in the
boom.

The screws that hold them in are threaded through the bracket and just sit
in non threaded holes in the boom. The shear of the bolts holds them in
place.

Unfortunately the screws were bent in the boom and the bracket itself was
split inside the boom.

The holes in the boom were elongated from the stress.

I finally had to resort to using a 10 mm drill bit to drill out the screws.
I used that big bit as it is the size of the initial hole in the bracket.

After successfully removing the screws, the split bracket inside the boom
prevented the bracket from moving more than 25 mm. Unfortunately the
aluminum in the track is thin and I was finally able to use caveman tactics
to remove the bracket. Unfortunately the upper portion of the track was
torn about 5 inches.



The new bracket from Amel uses allen head screws versus flat head screws.

I plan on installing the new bracket forward of the damaged area and then
sliding into the track a 7 inch long aluminum plate which I will bolt to
the upper side of the track and to the damaged area to reinforce the boom.



I would suggest that you carefully examine these brackets.

I would love to know if anyone else has seen or experienced this problem.



Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




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Hi all,
another thing to think of is the SM has a 1000 litre water tank. If you leave the boat with the fresh water pump turned on (but stopped because of the pressure switch) and a leak develops some where while you are away you will get 1000 litres of nice fresh water in the engine room.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl


________________________________
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 13 August 2013 1:59 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Marina mains water and fresh water pump

 
John,

Water flow at 40psi through 3/4" hose/pipe is about 300 liters/minute.. How long would it take a burst hose or broken hose clamp in the watertight engine room to cause the filling the engine room, assuming that the automatic bilge pump will pump out at 75 liters/minute? I think my flow calculations are fairly accurate.

I have thought about this because I know some people connect directly to their water system, but decided that I would put a few more hours on my pump rather than risk filling the engine room.

I am not trying to be critical of your method, but since you put this out there, I wanted to say something about the downside. Some people might follow your method without thinking about the downside.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently anchored near Fethiye, Turkey

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Anne and John Hollamby " <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

Our freshwater pump is a 40 psi Jabsco which is fine. The plumbing is all on one circuit so the pressure tank behind the generator gets pressurised by the Jabsco. Mains water is normally much cheaper than watermaker water so we switch off the Jabsco and connect the hose in the cockpit locker to the mains hose which then supplies the boat without spoiling the water in our tank. If we want drinking water we turn off the stopcock in the cockpit locker, turn on the Jabsco and run off some water in the galley first. Not sure that this would be safe in the rare marina with very high pressure mains and at any event we turn off the mains before leaving the boat.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Marsala, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Mark,

For information:
They don't sell AMFA or REYA

Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

John,

Water flow at 40psi through 3/4" hose/pipe is about 300 liters/minute. How long would it take a burst hose or broken hose clamp in the watertight engine room to cause the filling the engine room, assuming that the automatic bilge pump will pump out at 75 liters/minute? I think my flow calculations are fairly accurate.

I have thought about this because I know some people connect directly to their water system, but decided that I would put a few more hours on my pump rather than risk filling the engine room.

I am not trying to be critical of your method, but since you put this out there, I wanted to say something about the downside. Some people might follow your method without thinking about the downside.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently anchored near Fethiye, Turkey

Hi Phil,

I have run into the same problem! Very frustrating indeed!!! Could you please be more specific as to which sikaflex product you used. There are a great number of them so the exact brand number you used successfully would be a great help.

Thanks!!

Tom Fisher
"Sheila" Sharki #142
Kingston, Ontario, Canada


Tom Fisher RRT
Research Coordinator
Asthma Research Unit,
Queen's University
102 Stuart St.
Kingston,ON., K7L 2V6
613-549-6666 ext 2798
P Please consider the environment before printing this e-mail



________________________________
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of phil.berghmans
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 03:26
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Glue for vinyl headlining



Hello,

We have redone our headlining four years ago on my santorin 94.Took off the old vinyl cleaned it properly with brush and vacume cleaner.Started with a 3m spray kind of glue they use for carpets and stuff.Was very expensive and fell off after one month in the heat of the med ans canaries.Redone the whole thing with a cheap polyurethane sikaflex . One applieing with the gun the other spreading the stuff pieces of half a meter no more .Then reglueing the vinyl and hold/support for couple off minutes and done! You get more handy in it ass you go along.Now after three years in the tropics (cabo verde,carib) everything is still ok .Cheap and good solution.Iff you want more info .Send me a message.

Kind regards

phil

miles ahead
--- In amelyachtowners@...<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "ullaroo" <roo@...> wrote:

Hello,

We are in process of replacing the headliner in our 35 year old Euros. After consultation with our foam backed vinyl supplier Hawke House we also found the 3M 80 neoprene based spray glue the closest match to the glue they have successfully used in England. We ended up using the 3M 80 spray on foam backed vinyl and 3M 1300L brushed on fiberglass. Up to now we have finished the fore cabin and result looks satisfactory. One catch is that both these glues are pretty fast drying so you have to work fast especially with larger surfaces and in higher temperatures. Truth will come out in few years.

Regards,
Roo & Ullar on Euros41 #250

--- In amelyachtowners@...<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@> wrote:

There were some posts recently about spray adhesive for fixing vinyl headlining. Hopefully the following links are useful for those with headlining problems and trying to find the right glue.

Although some different ones may work, choosing the best one is not easy (some shops seem to just recommend what they have in stock as the perfect one).

I have previously used 3M General Trim Adhesive 08088 (was recommended) but it needs redoing in a few areas after a very hot summer. This adhesive is not listed on the brochure link below, I think due to using different marketing for auto and industrial markets. That adhesive seems to have worked fine on Naugasoft but not as well on a different brand of vinyl (maybe different types of plasticisers?) Another 3M auto adhesive is Super Trim Adhesive 08090 which is promoted as having resistance to plasticisers. This one sounds the same as 3M 90 High Strength.

According to the 3M links below Rubber and Vinyl 80 looks best. It has better heat resistance when the deck gets hot compared to High Strength Adhesive.

John, Maramu #91

Link for brochure showing different 3M spray adhesives

http://solutions.3m.com.au/3MContentRetrievalAPI/BlobServlet?lmd=1266458338000&locale=en_AU&assetType=MMM_Image&assetId=1258562304068&blobAttribute=ImageFile

Link for 3M spray adhesive 80

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Rubber-And-Vinyl-80-Spray-Adhesive-Yellow-24-fl-oz-Aerosol-Net-weight-19-oz-6-cans-per-case?N=4294933057+5000130&Nr=AND%28hrcy_id%3AN23ZLBTF6Hgs_Z6P37PTRPV_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv%29&rt=d

Link for 3M Super Trim Adhesive brochure

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSufSevTsZxtUnxm9mY_ZevUqevTSevTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=STA08090_Instruc_Feature.pdf&cshift_ck=null&client_id=752nw09202

Our freshwater pump is a 40 psi Jabsco which is fine. The plumbing is all on one circuit so the pressure tank behind the generator gets pressurised by the Jabsco. Mains water is normally much cheaper than watermaker water so we switch off the Jabsco and connect the hose in the cockpit locker to the mains hose which then supplies the boat without spoiling the water in our tank. If we want drinking water we turn off the stopcock in the cockpit locker, turn on the Jabsco and run off some water in the galley first. Not sure that this would be safe in the rare marina with very high pressure mains and at any event we turn off the mains before leaving the boat.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319, Marsala, Sicily

Hello,

We have redone our headlining four years ago on my santorin 94.Took off the old vinyl cleaned it properly with brush and vacume cleaner.Started with a 3m spray kind of glue they use for carpets and stuff.Was very expensive and fell off after one month in the heat of the med ans canaries.Redone the whole thing with a cheap polyurethane sikaflex . One applieing with the gun the other spreading the stuff pieces of half a meter no more .Then reglueing the vinyl and hold/support for couple off minutes and done! You get more handy in it ass you go along.Now after three years in the tropics (cabo verde,carib) everything is still ok .Cheap and good solution.Iff you want more info .Send me a message.

Kind regards

phil

miles ahead

Just to close this out:



AutoProp USA recommended CRC Sta-Lube Wheel Bearing grease Item # SL3110. It
is available at NAPA Auto Parts.



Best regards,



Mark



SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us

Hi Ian the on demand pressure pumps at 40 psi 24 v are around US $180. They install easy and in 7 seven years SM 209 have not failed or needed service as a full time live aboard. No tank no adjustments. I have in stalled them on other Amels with the same results, no problems.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

Thanks Richard. But are these constant pressure pumps? The Jabsco
electronic pumps with no pressure switches look good but are 4 times the
price.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader

On 07/08/2013 11:24, Richard03801 wrote:

Hi we've been using a demand pressure pump for years on both our
Amels. They work great.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 7, 2013, at 3:40, Ian & Judy Jenkins
<ianjudyjenkins@... <mailto:ianjudyjenkins%40hotmail.com>> wrote:

Hi Ian, I am not on the boat till next week so can't answer your
question at the moment. We now only have the separate expansion tank
which sits outboard of the Onan. The pump is noisier than the Amel
original but not unduly so and I could easily reduce the noise by
putting a rubber layer under the feet.
I spoke to Jabsco about their pump which needs no expansion tank and
they told me that they were on the point of improving its performance
and to wait another year before buying one. This was a couple of years
ago. I haven't followed it up because we are very happy with the
Jabsco which we bought.40 psi gives a wonderful shower, even better
than the Amel unit which was very good itself.
Incidentally, we also fitted the bayonet deck fitting for our anchor
wash and at the same time switched to a Jabsco wash down pump for that
purpose after the original Amel anchor wash pump and delivery point
was overwhelmed by Brasilian mud. Big improvement having a short
length of hose and a hand gun fitting.
Cheers,
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Malta

To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

From: sv_freespirit@... <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 08:02:19 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

Hi Ian,

I have been researching Jabsco pumps but there are so many to choose
from. If it's not to much trouble could you please confirm that you

have

the ParMax 3.5' Part Number 32600-0094 priced at £106.40 plus VAT?

Also, did you retain the accumulator tank? If not, is the output smooth
enough? I see that Jabsco also do a range of constant output pumps,
though at a price. These may be more power consuming and use more water
I guess.

Regards

Ian SM 2K 414 Crusader Limnos Island Greece

On 31/07/2013 08:36, Ian & Judy Jenkins wrote:

Hi Ian, No, the pressure switch we have is not adjustable. We chose a
powerful pump---40 psi from memory. Makes for a wonderful shower !

Ian

and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Malta

To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

From: sv_freespirit@...

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 07:19:23 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

Hi Ian & Judy,

thanks for this. I have a higher output pump (as an optional extra)
than the standard which gives better showers. Are the pressure

switches

on your Jabsco adjustable? I have had the pump apart in the past so
envisage no problems if I purchase a new impeller.

Say hello to Malta for me. S & D Yachts handle my registration.

Ian SM2000 # 414 Crusader

On 30/07/2013 07:34, Ian & Judy Jenkins wrote:

Hi Ian, I tried to replace the impeller but couldn't get the front
plate off.I decided to replace the pump with a Jabsco plastic

job (

similar to those used by Amel for the heads ). Three years

later I

can

say that it does the job just as well , no problems with pressure
switches and about one third the price.
Our original heads pumps, now 13 years old, are still delivering.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Malta

To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

From: sv_freespirit@...

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>

<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>

Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 06:33:12 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze

impeller. The

pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight

discharge of

the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure

switch was

replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the

problem. A

couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last

thing at

night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after

the pump

failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can

wear, but

maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone

replaced

this

impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There are also 2 hose clamps that are at the end of the hoses coming from
the sail drive reservoir.

They are located near the black hose that I had previously mentioned and are
difficult to see.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

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10 years I did not know the hose was there.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 7:14 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Hose clamps-sail drive





Thanks, Eric. Guess I need to find those.
Kent

________________________________
From: Sailorman <kimberlite@...
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> >
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2013 10:36 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Hose clamps-sail drive



There are 2 hose clamps that connect the sail drive body to a big rubber
hose under the sail drive. Then at the bottom there are 2 hose clamps that
connect the hose to the fiberglass hull.

I replaced them with one each about 1 inch wide and I think they were marked
140 or 150 mm.

It is the type that takes a wrench and is usually used on powerboat exhaust
hoses

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 10:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Hose clamps

Duh, huh?
Kent
On Aug 8, 2013, at 9:50 PM, Sailorman <kimberlite@...
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net>
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> > wrote:

Don't forget the ones that connect the sail drive to the hull.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson

Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 3:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: Re: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54

Hi Duncan. They were $2.59 to $2.99 apiece for the smaller ones and ~$6.75
for the bigger (3-5") ones. I'm not sure how many we'll need but I bought

20

ea of three smaller sizes (5/8-2 1/2") and 10 ea of two larger sizes

(3-5").

I'm hoping to get to the boat this wkend and will report on what I used.
Kent
SM243 Kristy
Brunswick GA

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 8, 2013, at 1:07 PM, "Duncan" <wdhagemeyer@...

<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>
<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>

<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> > wrote:

Kent, I contacted Ideal directly at their Tennessee distribution center.

I

am waiting to see if they will sell them to me as a distributor. I have a
friend who has a steel service center within a mile of their center.
Possibly he can get them for a good price. What was the cost of the AWAB.
Also how many would you need and what size.

How's the practice going? Going to see you down island this year?

Regards,

Duncan

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson

Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 10:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: Re: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54

Defender has AWAB 316 SS clamps at a better price than I could find

Ideal.

Still pricey but peace of mind.

Kent

________________________________
From: Duncan <wdhagemeyer@... <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>

<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>
<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>

<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> >

To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2013 10:21 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54

Hi Richard,

Regarding your recommendation to buy Ideal clamps. The come in two

grades

of stainless; 410 and 300 both with 5/8" bands. Does it matter which

grade?

Duncan

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Richard03801

Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 7:41 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: Re: [Amel] Battery Plan for Amel 54

Duncan can you give me call before 10:00 or after 14:00 my time. Thanks

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 7, 2013, at 16:44, "Duncan" <wdhagemeyer@...

<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>
<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>

<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com>
<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> > wrote:

Hi Richard,

Mine is 009. And has a 12 battery/12V bank.

Do you have any suggestions regarding inverters, or smart control

panels?

I am learning from my cabin experience that there are many types.

Duncan

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
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<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Richard03801

Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 1:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...

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Subject: Re: [Amel] Battry Plan for Amel 54

Battery size for the later boats is size 31.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Aug 7, 2013, at 13:36, "wdhagemeyer" <wdhagemeyer@...

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<mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> <mailto:wdhagemeyer%40gmail.com> > wrote:

I would like any input on a new battery plan for the A54 I have just

started a solar program for a cabin and I have been advised that 6 volt

200

ah Trojans are the way to go for this off grid mountain cabin. The vendor

is

telling me these are low maintenance and will withstand even -30F temps.

It

would seem that this might be a good choice for the boat as well? I do not
recall the size of the 12V batteries. I searched for a file or link to

other

posts that would also cover all aspects of the boats electrical system. I
would appreciate any suggestions.

_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter

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Miles,



A couple of thoughts:



Did this happen after you set the injectors (it was working fine before). If
so, I think I would double check that avenue first.



If not:



Does the prop turn freely by hand (can you turn the shaft by hand)?

Have you inspected the prop?

Have you run a compression check of each cylinder?

Are you blowing our black or white smoke while under load?

Have you run an oil test to check for water?



These are the things I would look toward next.



Mark

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of milesbidwell
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 5:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Low mid-range power on Volvo Penta TD22 after adjusting
injectors





After 14 years of no engine trouble, I recently had the injectors set to
Volvo Penta specifications. (I also replaced the turbo, but it checks out).
I now have very low power around 1800-2100 rpm's. On our boats these engines
are governed to 2800 rpm's and the Volvo Penta settings are for the normal
TMD22 3800 rpm engine. Does anyone know if the settings for the injectors
opening are the same for our boats as the settings for normal 3800 rpm
TMD22's? Has anyone had the opening pressure on their injectors set to the
original specifications, and did this affect the engine performance?
I would be grateful for any help on this. I am hesitant to use my boat
because I don't have enough power to motor into a strong breeze.
Thanks,
Miles (Ladybug, SM216)
Newport, RI

Hi Miles,
The great RPM issue with the TMD22! I am afraid that I can't answer your direct question but I have to say I have always wondered why I could only get 2800 rpm out of mine. I had no idea at all that you could govern the max RPM of the engine by the injector settings. This must mean that none of us with Super Maramus will ever get the full 78hp that this engine is meant to produce, and also explains why the turbo and exhaust elbo are constantly needing cleaned out as they are never getting the full blasting that they need. I am seriously considering a non turbo engine when I eventually replace.

Out of interest I have had my turbo off for cleaning twice and have just replaced the elbo. On the latest refitting things were worse and I can now only get 2200 rpm. Fortunately I have traced this to the waste gate valve which is either not sealing correctly when closed or the boost pressure capsule allowing it to open too early. I replaced the boost pressure capsule last night and am just heading out for the weekend to see if that has done the job or if I am into new turbo land. My engine has 5000 hrs on it and runs beautifully, consuming virtually no oil and starting perfectly, so I am very reluctant to replace just yet. Shame all the ancillary bits bolted on the side are giving up at the moment. I am sure it's just a phase....

Graham
SM 140 Sula
Hong Kong.

After 14 years of no engine trouble, I recently had the injectors set to Volvo Penta specifications. (I also replaced the turbo, but it checks out). I now have very low power around 1800-2100 rpm's. On our boats these engines are governed to 2800 rpm's and the Volvo Penta settings are for the normal TMD22 3800 rpm engine. Does anyone know if the settings for the injectors opening are the same for our boats as the settings for normal 3800 rpm TMD22's? Has anyone had the opening pressure on their injectors set to the original specifications, and did this affect the engine performance?
I would be grateful for any help on this. I am hesitant to use my boat because I don't have enough power to motor into a strong breeze.
Thanks,
Miles (Ladybug, SM216)
Newport, RI