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Re: [Amel] An Automatic Anchor Wash

karkauai
 

I have spliced a hose into the line in the port bow locker going from the pump to the anchor wash nozzle with a Y connector and two valves (cheap garden hose fittings). A 10 ft piece of of hose is plenty to reach around the bow pulpit and wash the chain before it comes aboard. Before that modification, I found that the anchor wash usually left mud and other nasty stuff on the chain which ended up on the deck and in the chain locker. Now my chain is clean when it gets to the boat.

Kent
SM243 KRISTY
Brunswick GA USA
On Aug 4, 2013, at 4:26 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I would expect that we have all at some time forgotten to switch off the
anchor wash pump. Not a big deal if you have the original design apart
from wasted battery power. However if you have converted your system to
freshwater as I have, it could seriously deplete your water supply. I
once wasted over 600 litres of fresh water when I got distracted and
forgot to switch the pump off. I have found a neat way to prevent this
happening. The anchor wash and the red light now work automatically
(with the anchor wash switch in the off position) whenever the toggle
switch is moved to the up position or the up button on the windlass is
pressed. You can now be sure that whenever you pause weighing the anchor
or let go of the switch/ button the water will cease to flow. The on off
switch still functions normally which is necessary for me as I have a Y
valve in the forward port side locker so that water can be fed to a
through deck bayonet fitting to which I can attach a deck cleaning hose.

The mod is very simple. All you need is a 24V auto-mobile type single
pole relay. Mine cost 3.5 Euros. Connect one side of the coil to the
forward lower terminal on the anchor up/down switch in the cockpit.
Connect the other side of the coil to any ground connection on the 24V
panel. Connect the other two contacts (Common and Normally open) to each
side of the anchor wash switch. It does not matter which way round.
Secure the relay in position with a cable tie around some wiring loom.
That's it.

I still think that the wash is inefficient in its use of water. A spray
pattern angled across the chain would be better, especially when the
chain is off to one side when the water can mostly miss the chain
altogether. Sealpump.com is a company that specializes in all sorts of
spray nozzles. Below is the link to one that might suit the Amel.

Regards

Ian Shepherd Sm 414 Crusader Thassos

http://www.sealpump.com/datasheets/Full%20Cone%20Nozzle.pdf

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
An Automatic Anchor Wash

Ian Shepherd
 

I would expect that we have all at some time forgotten to switch off the anchor wash pump. Not a big deal if you have the original design apart from wasted battery power. However if you have converted your system to freshwater as I have, it could seriously deplete your water supply. I once wasted over 600 litres of fresh water when I got distracted and forgot to switch the pump off. I have found a neat way to prevent this happening. The anchor wash and the red light now work automatically (with the anchor wash switch in the off position) whenever the toggle switch is moved to the up position or the up button on the windlass is pressed. You can now be sure that whenever you pause weighing the anchor or let go of the switch/ button the water will cease to flow. The on off switch still functions normally which is necessary for me as I have a Y valve in the forward port side locker so that water can be fed to a through deck bayonet fitting to which I can attach a deck cleaning hose.

The mod is very simple. All you need is a 24V auto-mobile type single pole relay. Mine cost 3.5 Euros. Connect one side of the coil to the forward lower terminal on the anchor up/down switch in the cockpit. Connect the other side of the coil to any ground connection on the 24V panel. Connect the other two contacts (Common and Normally open) to each side of the anchor wash switch. It does not matter which way round. Secure the relay in position with a cable tie around some wiring loom. That's it.

I still think that the wash is inefficient in its use of water. A spray pattern angled across the chain would be better, especially when the chain is off to one side when the water can mostly miss the chain altogether. Sealpump.com is a company that specializes in all sorts of spray nozzles. Below is the link to one that might suit the Amel.

Regards

Ian Shepherd Sm 414 Crusader Thassos

http://www.sealpump.com/datasheets/Full%20Cone%20Nozzle.pdf
Re: [Amel] Re: Fresh Water Pump

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bob,

thanks for the suggestion. I did take it apart but it is clean. What you
say is true though. I had that experience on my first boat. If I can
find a new Square D I will replace it, which I normally have to do every
two years or so.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Thassos

On 31/07/2013 14:41, gallivantbob wrote:

Ian,
Last year I had a similar challenge to get the pressure up to the cut
off point. Adjusting the switch as suggest is necessary, BUT I found
that after a storage period there was a build up of rust colored gunk
in the little pipe that the pressure switch sits on, which prevented
the switch from sensing the correct pressure. After disassembling and
cleaning the small tee and pipe, all was well.
Bob
Gallivant
Amel 54, currently on the hard in Grenada

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight
discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced
this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece
Re: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bill,

good to hear from you and I hope you are getting ready to depart. I was
about to shoot you an email about various mods which I will do shortly.
Back to the pressure switch. You are right. They are finicky. I have
dismantled it and there was no dirt inside, which is what I would have
expected as the Square D is only a year old and I have never put tap
water in the tank. All water for the past 13 years has been RO and
should be particle free.

Your adjustment method tallies with mine. The second nut is slackened
right off so there is no spring tension at all. The pump still tries to
reach 2.8 Bar (42 psi) which is odd as out of the box it cuts out at 2.4
Bar. What I have not done is check the accumulator pressure. I will
measure it tomorrow. I am leaning towards an end of season change of
pump to eliminate the accumulator, the external pressure switch and the
rather poor way in which the pressure switch is threaded into the
manifold pipe without an adequate boss which is prone to leaking and
requires pipe and wiring to be removed in order to wrap yet more PTFE
tape around it.

Cheers to you and Judy

Ian SM 414 2003 Crusader

On 30/07/2013 13:15, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

That Square D pressure switch is really tricky to get adjusted
correctly, but when you get it right it, it along with the pump Amel
installed is so much better than any on-demand pump on the market
anywhere.

There are two adjustments to the Square D switch. The center nut
adjustment is for the cut-on pressure...be sure to adjust it
first...and to back off of the other nut adjustment about 2 -3 turns
before you adjust the center cut-on pressure nut.

When you are satisfied with the cut-on pressure adjustment, adjust the
2nd adjustment nut...this is the duration-on adjustment. For instance,
it is too loose if the pump turns on as soon as you turn on water flow
and off when you turn off water flow. Screw the nut clockwise to
increase the duration...increasing duration pressurizes the
accumulator tanks. BTW, the accumulator tank air pressure should be
slightly less than your pressurized fresh water system pressure. If
the pressurized fresh water system pressure is 40psi, the tank should
be 30-34psi. Only check the accumulator tank air pressure with the
fresh water system depressurized.

Don't get discouraged if you have to do this several times to get it
where you want it...and because the switch is mechanical, it may
require adjustment again. The process is fresh in my mind because
after being off BeBe for 6 months, I had to go through the process.

I hope this helps.

Bill (Admiral, Texas Navy, Current Governor's Commission...I wish
Texas had ships, but they would have to be Amels)
BeBe, SM2k #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Richard Piller
<richard03801@...> wrote:

Hi we simply changed to a 24 v on demand pump at 40psi from Shorflow
problem solved. Got rid of the pesky tank too.

Sent from my iPad
Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Jul 30, 2013, at 2:33, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight
discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last
thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone
replaced this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece
Re: [Amel] Fresh Water Pump

Ian Shepherd
 

Sounds a good idea Richard. I have been through 4 pressure stats and
two accumulators, the latter costing as much as a new pump!

Cheers

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 30/07/2013 10:16, Richard Piller wrote:

Hi we simply changed to a 24 v on demand pump at 40psi from Shorflow
problem solved. Got rid of the pesky tank too.

Sent from my iPad
Regards
Capt Richard Piller

On Jul 30, 2013, at 2:33, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight
discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced
this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel] Re: Fresh Water Pump

Ian Shepherd
 

Thanks for his Trevor. I will bear this in mind when I make a
replacement. I have a Whale Urchin in the dinghy. Great pump that has
lasted 13 years until last week when the diaphragm eventually sprang a
leak. I will replace it as the cost is just twice that of the diaphragm
alone.

Regards

Ian Crusader SM 414 - Thassos

On 30/07/2013 09:15, seafeverofcuan wrote:

Hi Ian,
I had exactly the same problem, I stripped and rebuilt that pump seven
times and never was able to find out what was wrong with it. The new
service parts made no difference.
Reya were as usual hopeless and suggested that I purchase a new pump,
not easy as I was in Brazil.
I replaced it with a Whale 24volt intelligent pump which I fitted to
the bulkhead and has been a great success for the last three years
giving more pressure and no more battery problems.
The extra space created by removing the original pump lets me store my
five gallon oil drum and a spare Jerry can of clean diesel.
Jabsco also do a comprehensive of fresh water pumps. I chose Whale
because they are fifteen miles from where live in Northern Ireland you
get to talk to real people and their support service is excellent.
In fact have just ordered another as a spare.
Regards,
Trevor
Seafever
SM 425

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight
discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced
this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece
Re: [Amel] Autoprop Grease Type

kimberlite@...
 

There is a grease recommended by the autoprop agent in the us.
i am not on the boat but it is a waterproof wheel bearing grease, available from NAPA in a purple tube.
or call autoptop and ask they also have the grease.
eric
kimberlite
sm376

----- Original Message -----
From: captain_cucumber_head
Date: Saturday, August 3, 2013 9:17 am
Subject: [Amel] Autoprop Grease Type
To: amelyachtowners@...

I want to lube my autoprop. The instructions call for "good
quality waterproof grease". I know not all greases are
compatible and I'm trying to avoid a potential problem by using
the correct grease.
Is there a particular brand or type that works best (available
in the USA)?

Mark
SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us
Re: [Amel] Northern Chesapeake Bay

Mike Ondra
 

Jason,



Welcome to the Chesapeake. I echo Pat's comments.



For us the northern part of the Bay is somewhat limited by depth. We kept
Aletes at Georgetown for 6 years about 1 hour up the Sassafras River from
where Pat is moored. Plenty of anchorages and pleasant shoreline. Still Pond
is a favored overnight anchorage, just off the bay. Middle river on the
western shore offers depth and access to restaurants.



We are now at North Point Marina in Rock Hall. Again easy access to the Bay
but be careful at low tide and don't proceed past North Point. Rock Hall has
a lot to offer.



South of Rock Hall, as Pat said, there are endless cruising grounds.



Let us know your itinerary and maybe we catch you at North Point.



Mike



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of jdernehl@...
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 9:29 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Northern Chesapeake Bay






I know there are a few AMEL owners in the Chesapeake. I am looking for short
3 day weekend cruise ideas in the Northern Ches Bay(North of Baltimore).
Good places to anchor, tie up, etc... Are there any good towns, restaurants,
marinas? I am moored up in the C&D, So Places like Annapolis are ok, but I
am thinking of anything closer.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jason
Pao San
#88
Re: [Amel] Northern Chesapeake Bay

Patrick McAneny
 

Jason, I live on the Sassafras River, about seven miles from the C&D. My
boat a SM is on a mooring four miles up the river from the bay ,across from
Ordinary Point. The Sassafras has several beautiful and protected places to
anchor with high bluffs. There is three marinas eight miles up the river in
Georgetown with a couple good restaurants. Heading south of the Sassafras on
the eastern shore there is anchorages at Still Pond , Worton Creek, Fairlee
Creek and then Swan Creek in Rock Hall which has several marinas and
restaurants. If you have never cruised on the Cheasapeake you will never lack for
well protected anchorages there are thousands to chose from. I have probably
sailed better than 10,000 or more miles on the Bay over the last 40 years
and have yet to see all the Bay has to offer.If you are still here in Oct. the
Annapolis Boat show is fun . We sail down and do the show a couple days and
then cruise the Bay about ten days every fall. Drop a hook near my boat and
we will dinghy out and say Hi!

Hope to see Ya,

Pat& Diane

Shenanigans
Northern Chesapeake Bay

jdernehl@ymail.com <jdernehl@...>
 

I know there are a few AMEL owners in the Chesapeake. I am looking for short 3 day weekend cruise ideas in the Northern Ches Bay(North of Baltimore). Good places to anchor, tie up, etc... Are there any good towns, restaurants, marinas? I am moored up in the C&D, So Places like Annapolis are ok, but I am thinking of anything closer.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jason
Pao San
#88
Autoprop Grease Type

Mark Erdos
 

I want to lube my autoprop. The instructions call for "good quality waterproof grease". I know not all greases are compatible and I'm trying to avoid a potential problem by using the correct grease.
Is there a particular brand or type that works best (available in the USA)?

Mark
SM2K #275
www.creampuff.us
Re: Fresh Water Pump

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian and Bob,

After reading and contributing to this thread I also noticed a slight change in the pressure switch operation. I removed the Square D switch which is about 2 years old and found all sorts of rust colored gunk in the switch cavity. Cleaned and back together and working perfect.

Thanks for posting Bob.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k #387
Eastern Med - Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "gallivantbob" <bobh@...> wrote:

Ian,
Last year I had a similar challenge to get the pressure up to the cut off point. Adjusting the switch as suggest is necessary, BUT I found that after a storage period there was a build up of rust colored gunk in the little pipe that the pressure switch sits on, which prevented the switch from sensing the correct pressure. After disassembling and cleaning the small tee and pipe, all was well.
Bob
Gallivant
Amel 54, currently on the hard in Grenada

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece
Re: [Amel] SSB installation on Amel 54

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Peter,
We are in Sicily and I have been fiddling with things to install AIS so our SSB is out of use for a few days. I will Email you again after it is all working next week. I might add that we used it a lot in the Caribbean and S. Pacific but have not used it for ten years in the Med. We did try the cruisers net but it was too boring. John

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Forbes
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2013 1:01 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] SSB installation on Amel 54

john,

I have only really just twigged that you are a friend of Merlo who we saw
recently with Keith Outram en route as ever to Antigua.

I hope we meet you before too long.

My SSB is now fitted - now for the trial transmit - are you aboard and do
you have SSB can we test call - I can send my details - we will be on the
Amel 54 next week in Turkey.

Peter
Peter Forbes
Amel 54 #35 in Gocek Turkey

Best wishes
*Peter Forbes*
+44 (0) 7836 209730
ppsforbes@...


On 29 May 2013 10:00, Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...> wrote:

**


Hello Peter, Many years ago I crewed on a yacht doing the ARC and it had
an Icom with the fibre glass antenna. When we were half way across the
Atlantic Andrew Bishop, who now runs the ARC, was stuck by the gybing boom
and knocked unconscious. We got him down below and when the net came on his
father called up for medical advice. This was to put him in his bunk and
get him checked when we got to Barbados.
A short while later we heard Cornell talking with his office in the UK
trying to get media coverage for the ARCs life saving advice! The skipper,
Andrews father, then had to call his wife in the UK over the short wave
link to tell her that there was nothing to worry about in case she read
something in the press about her sons alleged perilous medical condition.
This was all done at long range over the fibreglass antenna so I had no
concerns about the one on my boat. I would have grave doubts about the
competence of your adviser. When the installation is complete get an
amateur radio operator to contact anyone at least 1000 miles away for a
radio check to make sure you have a good installation and put your mind at
rest.
The answer to Martins query is that using the port mizzen backstay works
very well for my ham radio. Getting the insulators and having them fitted
is expensive compared with getting a new base for your existing antenna. In
the unlikely event that someone should be holding on to the backstay when
someone transmits it would cause a nasty burn.
Good luck, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319 Malta

From: Peter Forbes
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 3:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Cc: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] SSB installation on Amel 54

Richard,

I finally bough my dream Amel 54 (hull no 35) from an Italian Rudi Peroni
in Rhodes last week.

I too am installing Icom 801 SSB. I was told the 2.4m long whip antenna
was only for receiving the DSC reply to a distress call and the main
antenna for tx/rx should be a separate either triticale or back stay long
antenna. Is that not correct.

The Icom 801 is just a marinised version of Icom 802.

Thanks for your help earlier too.

Peter

Peter Forbes

07836 209730
mailto:ppsforbes%40gmail.com

On 28 May 2013, at 03:00, Richard03801 <mailto:richard03801%40yahoo.com>
wrote:

Hi you need to mount the tuner in starboard stern so you can get to the
ground foil. Best to use the whip Antenna. Next the back stay. Using the
triact means running a very long wire = lost power and poor reception.

Regards
Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On May 24, 2013, at 9:22, lior 555 <mailto:lior246%40gmail.com> wrote:

Hi

I bought an ICOM M802 with tuner AT-140, Pactor modem and I would like to
install it on the boat.
Maybe someone could help me with a few questions.
I would like to use the antenna between the mizzen and main mast. Would
you
advice it?
Can someone tell me where I should place the tuner and where is the best
place to install the main unit?

Thanks in advance for your help
Lior











------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Amel] Re: rear holding tank clogged

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Hi Craig
No, the pipes are in PVC or somilar, just the connection between the tank and the hose is by thin copper.
We have also changed that, using a lot of irritation and bad words. It was a really hard work to remove the copper, but it worked finally.

And as Ian says, the copper will errode with or without acid. Vinaiger is effectiv and nicer to the copper.

Ann-Sofie
SY Lady Annila SM 232


Regards

Skickat från min iPad

31 jul 2013 kl. 10:26 skrev "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...>:

Good catch - I long ago changed all my Santorin plumbing to PVC and plastic holding tank with rubber vibration isolators - didn't know the SM had CU pipe.
Craig on Sangaris, SN#68

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I would be very careful in using any acid in your holding tank. The
parts are NOT all non corrosive. The connecting pipe between the bottom
of the holding tank and the down pipe to the valve is made of thin
walled copper pipe. Why Amel chose to do it this way is puzzling. I had
a disastrous leak from this pipe without ever having used acid in the
tank. The copper was completely eaten away by corrosion from toilet
waste, sea water etc. I have now replaced this vulnerable pipe with
pipe made out Teflon with double O-Rings so the failure should never
happen again. I have also converted my toilets to fresh water successfully.

Furthermore, I can now use acid as described by Bill Rouse with
confidence. It does free up the ball valve for a while but as Bill says,
use it only for a few seconds then flush through thoroughly. I have
tried pouring a mixture of Corrosion Block (Corrosion X) and olive oil
onto the ball valve through the deck pump out access afterwards. It
helps a little.

One of the good points in the design is that the deck fitting and the
holding tank exit pipe are vertically in line so it's easy to rod
through. I found a larger sized shroud cover useful for doing this. Use
a spare one and not one off the shrouds else it may break if its been in
the sun a while.

Good luck!

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader 2003 Thassos Aegean

On 30/07/2013 16:08, sv Sangaris wrote:



Gianni,

I may have been the one you recall being an advocate of Hydrochloric
acid - also known as Muriatic acid. All your plumbing parts will be
non-reactive with it (remember, much waste going in is acidic).
Depending on the amount of build-up in your pipes you may have to let
it "cook" for a long time and repeat to get them really clean. Then
every few weeks should keep things clear. No need for the extra
chemical reaction excitement of adding a base like baking soda to the
acid - the deposits you're attacking are already doing that so just
flush everything through. Hydrochloric acid totally dissociates in
water. Of course, do be eco friendly with your discharge.

It's sold in many countries as toilet cleaner, but read the label to
be sure it's Hydrochloric acid and not caustic soda and never mix
those - way too exciting. Some brands also contain surfactants that
add to the effectiveness, but plain HCl is excellent and cheap.

Cheers,
Craig Briggs
Re: [Amel] Re: Space for Name and Hailing Port on Super Maramu

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Here is your reply:

The space for the name is: width: 41" height: 7.5"

The space where hailing port is width: 33" height: 9.25"

I also attached a link so that you can have a visual reference compare to mine.
http://nikimat.com/space_for_name.html

Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Seabrook, Texas, USA



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 7/31/13, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel] Re: Space for Name and Hailing Port on Super Maramu
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, July 31, 2013, 8:37 AM
















 









Because letters can be different sizes I am looking
for the horizontal measurement of the space available in
inches for the first line (name) and second line (hailing
port). Centimeters will work also!



--- In amelyachtowners@...,
"rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@...>
wrote:

>

> Hi,

> Does anyone have the total space available for the Name
(first line) and Hailing Port (second line) on the transom
for a Super Maramu? I have to get some new ones and am not
at the boat. (does have a handle on the port side of the
second step)

> Thanks,

>

> Bob

>
Re: [Amel] Re: Space for Name and Hailing Port on Super Maramu

Mike Johnson
 

Hi Bob,
 
I won't be able to provide any measurements until September when we go back down to the boat.  When I send the other photo you might be able to estimate the measurement by comparing the size of the transom handles.
 
Mike


________________________________
From: rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 31 July 2013, 13:37
Subject: [Amel] Re: Space for Name and Hailing Port on Super Maramu


 

Because letters can be different sizes I am looking for the horizontal measurement of the space available in inches for the first line (name) and second line (hailing port). Centimeters will work also!

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Hi,
Does anyone have the total space available for the Name (first line) and Hailing Port (second line) on the transom for a Super Maramu? I have to get some new ones and am not at the boat. (does have a handle on the port side of the second step)
Thanks,

Bob



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Fresh Water Pump

gallivantbob <bobh@...>
 

Ian,
Last year I had a similar challenge to get the pressure up to the cut off point. Adjusting the switch as suggest is necessary, BUT I found that after a storage period there was a build up of rust colored gunk in the little pipe that the pressure switch sits on, which prevented the switch from sensing the correct pressure. After disassembling and cleaning the small tee and pipe, all was well.
Bob
Gallivant
Amel 54, currently on the hard in Grenada

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The
pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight discharge of
the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was
replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A
couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at
night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump
failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but
maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced this
impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece
Re: Space for Name and Hailing Port on Super Maramu

rossirossix4
 

Because letters can be different sizes I am looking for the horizontal measurement of the space available in inches for the first line (name) and second line (hailing port). Centimeters will work also!

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Hi,
Does anyone have the total space available for the Name (first line) and Hailing Port (second line) on the transom for a Super Maramu? I have to get some new ones and am not at the boat. (does have a handle on the port side of the second step)
Thanks,

Bob
Re: [Amel] Re: Cleaning props and hull - hookah systems

karkauai
 

Thanks Craig,
Very timely article. I think Id like to be able to go to depths of 25-35 ft to allow retrieval of a fouled anchor. I'll do some more research and let you know what I come up with.
Kent
SM 243 KRISTY
Brunswick, GA, USA
On Jul 30, 2013, at 11:50 AM, "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:



Per Kent's comment that many of these systems are much too expensive for what you actually get, take a look at David Lynn's article in the December 2012 issue of Ocean Navigator about how to simply and cheaply construct your own.

If you are SSCA members the on-line Ocean Navigator is free. You may also try this link: http://www.oceannavigator.com/November-December-2012/A-hookah-dive-system/

David is contributing editor to ON and he and Marcie sail aboard s/v Nine of Cups - good info on their website "Nineofcups dot com" where there's also a link to this article and many others.

Craig Briggs
SN 68 "Sangaris" in Samos, Greece where I just got my bottles filled for 5 euro.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel] rear holding tank clogged

karkauai
 

Somehow I don't think that solution would have ever occurred to me, Danny...Glad you took pictures so the rest of us will know what to do in a similar situation (~;
Then again, I might heave to and drop over the side head up instead.
Glad you didn't waste any of that nice wind on the beam!
Kent

On Jul 31, 2013, at 6:42 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Colin,
I have uploaded a photo to the site. Ocean Pearl clearing the holding tank.
Cheers
Danny

________________________________
From: Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, 31 July 2013 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] rear holding tank clogged

Hi Danny
Where is the pic? If you attached it nothing came through? Sounds like it
would be worth a good look.
Cheers
Colin
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332

On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 10:01 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@...>wrote:

**


Hi all,
thought you might get a smile out of this photo. We were in the Carib 1500
in 2009 and the aft head holding tank outlet clogged with the result that
we had very smelly stuff running down our decks. We were reaching at 8 to 9
knots at the time and didn't want to lose time by heaving to so with a
harness and lifejacket in place I was lowered head first over the side to
push a flexible pipe up from the bottom of the outlet. My head was dunked
in the sea a few times but success and no time lost. Encouraged by that
success I then went up the mizzen mast in the bosuns chair to re run a lost
halyard.
Cheers
Danny SM299 Ocean Pearl

________________________________
From: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 30 July 2013 11:11 PM
Subject: [Amel] rear holding tank clogged



Hi to all, I remember that some used to pour acid into the tank to
dissolve the organic obstruction. But I don't remeber which, from which
hole and how to work. Please, any suggestion may help.All the bestGiovanni
TESTA SM 428Port VilaVanuatu




--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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