Date   

Lofrans Tigres Windlass Gypsy_Chain Compatibility Question

drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@...>
 

Our gypsy is worn and needs to be replaced. Our chain, OEM from Amel on SM390, measures exactly 10mm by calipers. In looking at the Lofrans parts catalog, there are a number of choices: 3/8" DIN 766, Ø 10-3/8"HT/P30 and 3/8HT s/8PC, corresponding to Part # 276f, 276e, or 276h, respectively. There are actually 7 choices, but these seem to be closest to 10mm/3/8". Does anyone know which chain Amel was placing in their 2003 SM's?
Thanks,
Drew
Revelation SM390
Lying Opua NZ


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Revelation SM390/LA3P L10 006 0404 Rev.pdf
Uploaded by : drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@vanderbilt.edu>
Description : Thomson_Brandt L10 Wash_Dry manual

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Revelation%20SM390/LA3P%20L10%20006%200404%20Rev.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles

Regards,

drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@vanderbilt.edu>


Re: Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

The copper strap is the boat's ground system. You need to replace it.

See the photos and description in the photo section of this website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/138287824/pic/list

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@...> wrote:

Cleaning the bilge water gray today I found this cable copper plate that appears between the broken bolt on the bottom of the bilge and the other piece that goes on top. I have no idea of what it is, you know what? This may be due to the fact that he turned on the indicator "masses -" indicating a dispersal?

SM2000 No. 420


Thank you very much, sorry 4 my bad English, I'm italian!


Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)

ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
 

Cleaning the bilge water gray today I found this cable copper plate that appears between the broken bolt on the bottom of the bilge and the other piece that goes on top. I have no idea of what it is, you know what? This may be due to the fact that he turned on the indicator "masses -" indicating a dispersal?

SM2000 No. 420


Thank you very much, sorry 4 my bad English, I'm italian!


Re: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

richard03801@...
 

Mike we have the same prop on our boat. SM 209 with no issues.
Happy sailing
Richard SM 209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 07:33:54
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

Gary,

Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has
bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to
deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included
in Aletes photos folder.

Mike

Aletes SM#240

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement





Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing
cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after
hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike


[Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary and Mike,

Yes there are some differences...Bruntons changed bearing types sometime around 2002.

When Mike posted his method of bearing removal, I emailed a photo of Mike's prop to a guy at Brutons and asked for his comments on Mike's method. BTW, I did not reveal the source of the photo. I did not receive any direct comments about Mike's method.

The return email stated, "Your (BeBe's) autoprop uses a different bearing system...the picture you attached shows the old style ball bearing system with open bearing. Your propeller uses a seal and taper roller bearing together with a thrust race, which are much easier to remove."

I am not sure that this addresses Gary's question and possibly brings up more questions.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malasia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

Gary,

Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has
bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to
deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included
in Aletes photos folder.

Mike

Aletes SM#240

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement





Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing
cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after
hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

Mike Ondra
 

Gary,

Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has
bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to
deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included
in Aletes photos folder.

Mike

Aletes SM#240

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement





Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing
cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after
hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike


Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

Hi, Richard,
I've only done a systematic evaluation of fuel consumption on the trip from Norfolk to Grenada this Fall.  I had the newly repitched fixed prop on the boat.  In different sea conditions I noted 3.5-4.0 liter/hr consumption at 1600, 1800, and 2000 rpm, some of which was motoring and some motorsailing, some heading into the sea and some with light wind astern.  At 2200 rpm the consumption jumped to 5.5-6.0 liters per hour.  I haven't run it faster than that long enough to have a feel for consumption at higher rpm.
 
I do run the engine at maximum rpm (2850 with that prop and a clean hull) for about 15 min every 6 hours.  After burning 3/4 tank of fuel on the way down there was some soot on the port topside aft of the exhaust, but nothing that wouldn't be expected according to a mechanic who was looking at my genset.  When running hard there is no increase in smoke coming from the exhaust that I can see.  Running the Volvo as described, there is virtually no oil consumption.  I haven't had to add oil except when changing oil and filters since I've owned her.
 
Whaddya think?
Kent
KRISTY
SM243


Re: [Amel] Fuel burn rate

richard03801@...
 

Thanks Danny, on our last Atlantic crossing motor sailing at a1400 our speed w/10 kts wind was 7.5 burn rate 1.5 l/hr. At 2200 8/l/hr
Average bottom some build up. Did not push to turbo.
Lube oil needed after or during crossing zero. We use synthetic oil designed for diesel as lube oil.
Thanks again.
Richard on SM 209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 06:15:06
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor

Hi Richard, on a previous boat, a 42 foot racer/cruiser I had a volvo 2030 30 hp. At 2000 rpm and 5 knots boat speed the consumption was 1.2 (one point two) litres per hour. At 2500 rpm and 6 knots speed the consumption jumped to 2.2 litres per hour.
regards
Danny SM299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Fri, 19/3/10, richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, 19 March, 2010, 10:40 AM


 



Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long.
Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul.
When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption?

Be interesting to chat about someday.
Fair winds
Richard SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46
To: <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor

Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that.  Wish it'd been that simple for me.
Kent

--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co. nz> wrote:


From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co. nz>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM


 



Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM

 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________________________________________
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316









Re: [Amel] Propellor

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Richard, on a previous boat, a 42 foot racer/cruiser I had a volvo 2030 30 hp. At 2000 rpm and 5 knots boat speed the consumption was 1.2 (one point two) litres per hour. At 2500 rpm and 6 knots speed the consumption jumped to 2.2 litres per hour.
regards
Danny SM299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Fri, 19/3/10, richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, 19 March, 2010, 10:40 AM


 



Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long.
Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul.
When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption?

Be interesting to chat about someday.
Fair winds
Richard SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46
To: <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor

Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that.  Wish it'd been that simple for me.
Kent

--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co. nz> wrote:


From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co. nz>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM


 



Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM

 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

___________ _________ _________ _________ ______
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Propellor

richard03801@...
 

Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long.
Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul.
When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption?

Be interesting to chat about someday.
Fair winds
Richard SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor

Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that.  Wish it'd been that simple for me.
Kent

--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz> wrote:


From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM


 



Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM

 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________________________________________
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316









Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that.  Wish it'd been that simple for me.
Kent

--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz> wrote:


From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM


 



Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM

 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Propellor

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM


 



I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike


Rocna 25 on Sisila

Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
 

the photo of the Rocna 25 on Sisila is posted among photos under Sisila
Attilio&Maria Amel Santorin#86 "Sisila"




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rocna 25 on Santorin

Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
 

Hi to all Santorin owners,
since I never had much confidence on the ordinary CQR anchor inherited with the Santorin, I purchased last year (#86 ex Delos, now Sisila), I purchsed a Rocna 25, maybe too heavy, anyhow much heavier than the CQR.
The problem is that the trunk is too high to pass thru the bow (excuse my approximate English). SM#5 Spice said tht the trim of the trunk mst be to 12cm: according to my measurements, the R25 must be trimmd to 10cm, accordinf to the attached photo.
Regards
Maria&Attilio Amel Santorin#86  "Sisila"




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: LED bulbs

spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>
 

Hello All
Ref LEDs I've found www.searolf.com to be excellent, good products, good prices, I've also used www.midsummerenergy.co.uk for rigid LED strips which have proved great for all sorts of areas, they're big in solar panels too
David Worthington
Sharki 148
Spirito Affine

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Hi Martin



In response to your inquiry about LED bulbs:



I have bought from 3 or 4 different companies and it has been a real learning experience. LED lights have vastly improved since I bought my first ones several years ago. The bulbs are much brighter and much less blue, and as they have evolved they are increasing the number of light cells within each bulb - the more little light cells the better. Don't buy them with any less than 9 little light cells. Also be sure to buy them for a 24V system.



For the dome lights below, I used the G4 LED bulb, a plug-in version that fits into the same socket as the G4 halogen bulbs. Many suppliers have these. The problem with our Amel overhead dome lights is that the halogen sockets are vertical and the G4 plugs are horizontal, and the domelight lens is flat, so you have to modify the dome light or modify the LED a little to get the new LED bulbs to fit/work. To modify the dome light, you can unscrew (2 screws) the socket in the dome light and then you twist it to be horizontal. The LED bulb will lie on the glass dome (with no support) but this works fine. Or to modify the LED bulb, you can also use small needle-nose pliers and bend/twist the 2 prongs of the G4 bulb to make them fit. Either way can work well. Because the domelight is flat there isn't any room for any type of LED iexcept a G4.



For the reading lights I got the LEDs from WWW.MASTLIGHT.COM. It's called a MR16GD21W spotlight. It has 2 prongs like the halogen bulb but wont fit immediately down into the fixture. I took a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers and twisted and pulled the shiny (conical like) reflector out of the fixture (but it is hard to get out). The LED bulbs will then fit in very nicely. The LED is 10 times cooler than the halogen but not quite as bright,but they are fine for reading. There is no way to get the LED in without removing the reflector.



I have a second dome light over the galley sink, with a red lens (for night sailing) but it has a white festoon bulb. This dome light has a concave lens (more room in it for a bulb). I got LED versions of the festoon bulb from WWW.LEDSHOPONLINE.COM in Austrailia.



For the interior wall-mounted cabin lights (the ones with the little lamp shades) and the dashboard dome light (which has a concave lens on our boat), they use a "bayonet double contact" bulb so you have to also buy a "bayonet double contact halogen lamp base" in addition to the LED bulb. It is confusing to buy a "halogen lamp base" but it is just an interface for the LED bulb into the lamp. We found Ancor brand of these lamp bases fairly easily at marine supply stores, or you can get them from WWW.SAILORSSOLUTIONS.COM. Once you have the lamp bases, you can use a G4 LED or a Sensibulb LED also sold by Sailors Solutions. The benefits of the Sensibulb LED is that it has a flexible wired mount you can face in any direction, and it will fit into any halogen base receptacle, but it cannot be used in the flat-lensed dome lights as there is insufficient room.



You will find that these lights burn very little amperage and will last a lifetime. The Austrailian company insists you put a diode in the 24 volt line to protect them from a surge over 30 amps, this only seems needed on a 24V system. I haven't had the surge problem but I put them in anyway. Sensibulb gave me 3 of them which I installed in each of the 3 cabin light systems.



The only new LED fixture I bought was a flexible goose-neck reading lamp, with a dimmer, from Sailors Solutions for about US$130. I removed the original Amel shaded lamp and installed the gooseneck at the aft port corner of the salon table. It is wonderful for reading in the salon and can be dimmed to provide nice "mood light" also.



Perhaps other Amel owners have other advice to offer?



Best regards,

John SY "Moon Dog" SM 248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:32:17 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: Deck Flood lights






Thanks for your reply. Can you give me any info as to what replacement bulbs you found satisfactory and the manufacture and source?
Martin Caduceus 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@> wrote:


Martin, you have the right ideal. I replaced all the halogen bulbs in the cabin and had to retrofit some of them, much cheaper and faster then buying a complete new led fixture. I like your ideal of solar panels on the stern arch, but won't you get a shadow from the SSB antennae?. I have 2- 130 watt solars on the aft cabin and they are great. If I had 2 more I'd only use the generator to make hot water. If I put the arch on I'd eliminate the antenna and the SSB.With today's new technology with skype, cell phones, satellite phone, etc.,I belive their demise is certain. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:34:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Deck Flood lights





Our Amel 54 is fitted with four deck floods, one in the cockpit, one for the foredeck and two on the main spreaders. They are all 28v 50w Halogen sealed beams.

We are in the process of fitting a stern arch to carry solar panels and the dinghy. Into this are being set two LED floods. These LED's are available in a variety of beam angles, and warmths, and are designed for the purpose. Similar floods are being fitted to the latest Oysters as spreader flood lights; we are having the work done at Fox's in Ipswich UK. They are is involved in fitting out Oyster yachts and I am assured that the LED floods are fit for purpose.

I am considering having some adapters made, modeled on the flange of the existing bulb that acts as the retainer in the housing that carries the bulb; machined out of some form of rigid nylon sheet, or similar. This adapter would then be used as a mount for the LED bulb without having to replace the existing housings. If successful the saving in power consumption would be considerable and make it much more practical to leave the lights on for more extended periods.

Rather than completely re-invent the wheel, does anyone have experience of this?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus



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LED bulbs

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hi Martin



In response to your inquiry about LED bulbs:



I have bought from 3 or 4 different companies and it has been a real learning experience. LED lights have vastly improved since I bought my first ones several years ago. The bulbs are much brighter and much less blue, and as they have evolved they are increasing the number of light cells within each bulb - the more little light cells the better. Don't buy them with any less than 9 little light cells. Also be sure to buy them for a 24V system.



For the dome lights below, I used the G4 LED bulb, a plug-in version that fits into the same socket as the G4 halogen bulbs. Many suppliers have these. The problem with our Amel overhead dome lights is that the halogen sockets are vertical and the G4 plugs are horizontal, and the domelight lens is flat, so you have to modify the dome light or modify the LED a little to get the new LED bulbs to fit/work. To modify the dome light, you can unscrew (2 screws) the socket in the dome light and then you twist it to be horizontal. The LED bulb will lie on the glass dome (with no support) but this works fine. Or to modify the LED bulb, you can also use small needle-nose pliers and bend/twist the 2 prongs of the G4 bulb to make them fit. Either way can work well. Because the domelight is flat there isn't any room for any type of LED iexcept a G4.



For the reading lights I got the LEDs from WWW.MASTLIGHT.COM. It's called a MR16GD21W spotlight. It has 2 prongs like the halogen bulb but wont fit immediately down into the fixture. I took a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers and twisted and pulled the shiny (conical like) reflector out of the fixture (but it is hard to get out). The LED bulbs will then fit in very nicely. The LED is 10 times cooler than the halogen but not quite as bright,but they are fine for reading. There is no way to get the LED in without removing the reflector.



I have a second dome light over the galley sink, with a red lens (for night sailing) but it has a white festoon bulb. This dome light has a concave lens (more room in it for a bulb). I got LED versions of the festoon bulb from WWW.LEDSHOPONLINE.COM in Austrailia.



For the interior wall-mounted cabin lights (the ones with the little lamp shades) and the dashboard dome light (which has a concave lens on our boat), they use a "bayonet double contact" bulb so you have to also buy a "bayonet double contact halogen lamp base" in addition to the LED bulb. It is confusing to buy a "halogen lamp base" but it is just an interface for the LED bulb into the lamp. We found Ancor brand of these lamp bases fairly easily at marine supply stores, or you can get them from WWW.SAILORSSOLUTIONS.COM. Once you have the lamp bases, you can use a G4 LED or a Sensibulb LED also sold by Sailors Solutions. The benefits of the Sensibulb LED is that it has a flexible wired mount you can face in any direction, and it will fit into any halogen base receptacle, but it cannot be used in the flat-lensed dome lights as there is insufficient room.



You will find that these lights burn very little amperage and will last a lifetime. The Austrailian company insists you put a diode in the 24 volt line to protect them from a surge over 30 amps, this only seems needed on a 24V system. I haven't had the surge problem but I put them in anyway. Sensibulb gave me 3 of them which I installed in each of the 3 cabin light systems.



The only new LED fixture I bought was a flexible goose-neck reading lamp, with a dimmer, from Sailors Solutions for about US$130. I removed the original Amel shaded lamp and installed the gooseneck at the aft port corner of the salon table. It is wonderful for reading in the salon and can be dimmed to provide nice "mood light" also.



Perhaps other Amel owners have other advice to offer?



Best regards,

John SY "Moon Dog" SM 248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@yahoo.co.uk
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:32:17 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: Deck Flood lights






Thanks for your reply. Can you give me any info as to what replacement bulbs you found satisfactory and the manufacture and source?
Martin Caduceus 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Martin, you have the right ideal. I replaced all the halogen bulbs in the cabin and had to retrofit some of them, much cheaper and faster then buying a complete new led fixture. I like your ideal of solar panels on the stern arch, but won't you get a shadow from the SSB antennae?. I have 2- 130 watt solars on the aft cabin and they are great. If I had 2 more I'd only use the generator to make hot water. If I put the arch on I'd eliminate the antenna and the SSB.With today's new technology with skype, cell phones, satellite phone, etc.,I belive their demise is certain. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:34:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Deck Flood lights





Our Amel 54 is fitted with four deck floods, one in the cockpit, one for the foredeck and two on the main spreaders. They are all 28v 50w Halogen sealed beams.

We are in the process of fitting a stern arch to carry solar panels and the dinghy. Into this are being set two LED floods. These LED's are available in a variety of beam angles, and warmths, and are designed for the purpose. Similar floods are being fitted to the latest Oysters as spreader flood lights; we are having the work done at Fox's in Ipswich UK. They are is involved in fitting out Oyster yachts and I am assured that the LED floods are fit for purpose.

I am considering having some adapters made, modeled on the flange of the existing bulb that acts as the retainer in the housing that carries the bulb; machined out of some form of rigid nylon sheet, or similar. This adapter would then be used as a mount for the LED bulb without having to replace the existing housings. If successful the saving in power consumption would be considerable and make it much more practical to leave the lights on for more extended periods.

Rather than completely re-invent the wheel, does anyone have experience of this?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus



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Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz.fr <jlm@jlmertz.fr> wrote:


From: jlm@jlmertz.fr <jlm@jlmertz.fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM


 



Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Propellor

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Kent Robertson a écrit :



Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz.fr
<mailto:jlm%40jlmertz.fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz.fr <mailto:jlm%40jlmertz.fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]