Hi we simply changed to a 24 v on demand pump at 40psi from Shorflow problem solved. Got rid of the pesky tank too.
Regards
Capt Richard Piller

Hi Ian,
I had exactly the same problem, I stripped and rebuilt that pump seven times and never was able to find out what was wrong with it. The new service parts made no difference.
Reya were as usual hopeless and suggested that I purchase a new pump, not easy as I was in Brazil.
I replaced it with a Whale 24volt intelligent pump which I fitted to the bulkhead and has been a great success for the last three years giving more pressure and no more battery problems.
The extra space created by removing the original pump lets me store my five gallon oil drum and a spare Jerry can of clean diesel.
Jabsco also do a comprehensive of fresh water pumps. I chose Whale because they are fifteen miles from where live in Northern Ireland you get to talk to real people and their support service is excellent.
In fact have just ordered another as a spare.
Regards,
Trevor
Seafever
SM 425

Hi Ian, I tried to replace the impeller but couldn't get the front plate off.I decided to replace the pump with a Jabsco plastic job ( similar to those used by Amel for the heads ). Three years later I can say that it does the job just as well , no problems with pressure switches and about one third the price.
Our original heads pumps, now 13 years old, are still delivering.
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Malta

I have an A.M.F.A A88 fresh water pump with the bronze impeller. The pump struggles to reach cut off pressure after an overnight discharge of the batteries down to around 24.0 V. The Square D pressure switch was replaced about a year ago and adjustment cannot cure the problem. A couple of times now I have forgotten to trip the pump CB last thing at night leading to a massive discharge of the batteries after the pump failed to reach cut off pressure.

Looking at the impeller there does not seem much that can wear, but maybe changing it will result in more pressure? Has anyone replaced this impeller with a noticeable improvement please?

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Crusader Built Jul 2003 Thassos Greece

The life time depends one the situation of the boat in the harbor,
if you are near metallic boats with high leakage current it can fall to
6 month other wises 1 to 3 years on CottonBay ...
I check the anode every 6 months and change by annual care if more than
the half is loss.

Jean Luc on CottonBay SM 316
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Le 25/07/2013 19:43, Mark Erdos a écrit :

Hans,

This is quite easy to do. It can be done while in the water. I highly
suggest tying a piece of fishing line onto the bolt holding the anodes
once
it is loosened to prevent from dropping it.

Does any know the average life expectancy of the anodes on the rudder? I
also have to change mine about once a year (if not before).

Mark

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Hans-Joachim
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 12:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] anodes at the rudder

Dear Amelgroup,
our anodes at the rudder dissolve pretty fast (6 month). We´ll have to
check
why, but our actual question is: does anybody know if we can change the
anodes while beeing in the water, or is there a pfoblem with water coming
into the rudder or the like.

Thank you for any information

Hans Joachim, SM436

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kent,



I use a set up similar to this:



http://www.browniesmarinegroup.com/third-lung-diving/kayak-diving-hose-kits/



This has worked well for me. If you have a compressor onboard, all the better. If not, any dive shop will fill the tank for not much money.



Mark

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 8:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] cleaning props and hull hookah systems





These systems are really expensive for what they are. Some years back I read about how to put your own system together for a few hundred US dollars, but I can't find the link now. Has anyone done this by buying component parts? I'd prefer to have a 24v pump or 220AC.
Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
Brunswick, GA, USA

From: Dr Jörg Steffen <joerg.steffen@... <mailto:joerg.steffen%40yahoo.com> >
To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Cc: Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@... <mailto:annejohnholl%40gmail.com> >
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] leaning props and hull


If you are interested in this thinks look at

www.freediver.de

It is more expensive but also much more sophisticated

Joerg Steffen

SV TAIKA

Am 28.07.2013 19:39, schrieb Anne and John Hollamby:

Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht
in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at
least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using
a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company
specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed
14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not
be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650.
More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

These systems are really expensive for what they are.  Some years back I read about how to put your own system together for a few hundred US dollars, but I can't find the link now.  Has anyone done this by buying component parts?  I'd prefer to have a 24v pump or 220AC.
Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY
Brunswick, GA, USA

From: Dr Jörg Steffen <joerg.steffen@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Cc: Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] leaning props and hull

 
If you are interested in this thinks look at

www.freediver.de

It is more expensive but also much more sophisticated

Joerg Steffen

SV TAIKA

Am 28.07.2013 19:39, schrieb Anne and John Hollamby:

Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht
in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at
least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using
a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company
specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed
14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not
be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650.
More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi, on Akwaaba we use the Power Dive 12v Deck Snorkel. We bought it in Australia.
Hope this helps.

Mike and Chris Smither Akwaaba santorin sloop

On 29 Jul 2013, at 09:08, Dr Jörg Steffen <joerg.steffen@...> wrote:

If you are interested in this thinks look at

www.freediver.de

It is more expensive but also much more sophisticated

Joerg Steffen

SV TAIKA

Am 28.07.2013 19:39, schrieb Anne and John Hollamby:

Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht
in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at
least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using
a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company
specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed
14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not
be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650.
More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you are interested in this thinks look at

www.freediver.de

It is more expensive but also much more sophisticated

Joerg Steffen

SV TAIKA





Am 28.07.2013 19:39, schrieb Anne and John Hollamby:

Hallo Joel, Kent, Mark, Richard. Veit, Trevor,
thank you very much for your reply.
Hans-Joachim
Johanna-Amalthea SM 436 La Palma on the way to Brasilia

I have now repaired the leaking impellor and fitted the new seals that Olivier at Amels included in my original spares kit in 2001.Fortunately the impeller was near perfect but was very hard to get off the shaft. I had to use a shaft puller to do it as levering and heating it did not free it.The ground wire was affected by sea water but still made a good connection to the grounding connected to the keel bolt. I shall replace the wire with a new one with tinned copper wire.
Zinc anodes waste rapidly in most marinas as a result of stray electricity from the marina wiring and/or other boats. This can be mostly avoided by installing a galvanic isolator in the marinas ground wire where it first enters the yacht. See Nigel Calders Mechanical and Electrical Handbook which is a must for any owner.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

Last winter I saw a liveabords wife cleaning the hull of a 50ft yacht in the marina. She was wearing a wet suit and was in the water for at least an hour coming up occasionally to report progress. She was using a tiny mains powered compressor made by Nardi, an Italian company specialising in scuba type compressors. It was 45x24x28cms,weighed 14.5kgs and seems ideal for that use. The company say that it must not be used in depths of over 50 feet. They said the cost was about €650. More details from infoatnardicompressori.com and the model was the Esprit.

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K 319, Licata, Sicily

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Trevor

Many thanks for your assistance again.

Best regards
Colin

Colin,
Same gearbox and ratios part no 3315002011, the cooler comes from Bowman who you will find on line, but should be supplied easily from a gearbox agent.
My box was supplied by Total Yacht Works Mazatlan Mexico, Bob Buuchanan, totalyachtworks@... it took six weeks to get it from Fort Lauderdale Florida to Mexico. It was a long time at anchor.
The quote was two weeks.
Best regards,
Trevor

Thanks Danny
Hope to meet up with you and Yvonne in the Pacific somewhere in a couple seasons time.
Fair winds
Colin

Hi Colin,
forgot you were an almost neighbour over there in Brisbane. Relate to you regarding selling, how do you move from the best, whats left?
As to grease/oil mixture. A 50/50 mix is still surprisingly fluid. I just tipped the unit upside down in a bucket and left it like that for 24 hours .Any oil/grease left after that didn't seem worth worrying about.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Vuda Point Fiji
 


________________________________
From: Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, 26 July 2013 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE


Hi Danny

I trust you guys are enjoying a great anchorage somewhere in the the
Pacific. We had put our boat up for sale however having spent some time
aboard again this week, and after getting the feel of cruising in such
comfort again, and also with the sort of help available on this forum when
something went wrong (as happens on all brands of boats), we are now of a
mind to keep her as we wouldn't imagine being happy with anything else now.

Anyhow I will be lifting Island Pearl II out soon to do the annual
maintenance and replace the Prop seals & bearing etc. This also means
servicing the bow thruster again and hence I wanted to re-visit the idea of
putting a grease/oil mixture in as you and others have done to avoid the
leaks.

Last time I replaced with the appropriate oil only since I eventually
managed to re-seat the oil bearings really nicely and left it in the sun
for a day with no leaks at all. What I had found was that the leaks
appeared when the sun had been baking on the unit for a while as the oil
warmed up and found it's way through as viscosity changed. Eventually
successful and happy with no leaks I put her back in the water and had no
problems for about 6 months then one day up here in the QLD warmer waters
noticed a little oil on the water again after thruster use.

Based on this I am thinking of putting a 10% compatible grease and oil
mixture on this next slip. Last time after talking to you we experimented
with a ratio from 50% down to 10% grease and found that when really well
mixed the 10% mixture was pretty thick and would still stand up little when
pulling an object out of the mixture.Our main concern related to how one
got the grease out afterwards when dirty, however prefer the though of some
in there than nothing if the oil only mixture all leaks out...

My question one year later is... how is your bow thruster going with the
50/50 ratio of grease? Have you serviced it again since and how did you get
the grease out? Are you still of a mind that this would be a good idea?  I
think some others on the forum tried the grease solution too so would also
like to hear from anyone else on this subject too.

Fair Winds

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K#332
Brisbane Australia


the fact that


On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 11:00 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@...>wrote:

**


Hi Trevor,
thankls for the comment re ease of moving the motor, BUT we are Ocean
Pearl, not Island Pearl.
Cheers
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl

________________________________
From: seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, 25 July 2013 9:29 PM

Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE


Hi Colin,
It sounds like you have pumped out most of the ATF and replaced it with
seawater which gives you that brown/grey color due to the water emulsifying
with the grease in the gearbox bearings.
It is equally important to replace the ATF cooler which is the likely
cause of the problem.
There is a very good posting from Danny on the original Island Pearl on
the ease of gearbox removal etc.
I replaced my Hurth gearbox earlier this year at around US $ 3000 for the
parts.
Regards,
Trevor

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Colin Streeter
<colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Dear Joel, Bill, Trevor, Kent and All

Thank you all once again for the swift assistance and incredibly helpful
advice at such a critical time for us all on board. This group is simply
amazing and a huge comfort.

Based on the fact that we have a 3 week wait for a lift onto the hard

stand

and for mechanical assistance, and on reading earlier postings we decided
to engage FWD gear and run slowly into our marina berth without taking it
out of gear at all (since we previously found it would not re-engage gear
once the gearbox had warmed up). Thankfully the gears held for the 15min
slow run in and with the aid of the bow thruster and wind direction we

were

able to dock safely without using reverse gear and so she is safely home.

In terms of all your advice I am now pretty sure we have the following

two

problems:

1) I think* Joel* is absolutely spot on with the tip that the shaft
bearings/seals have possibly failed and that sea water has recently got
into the drive and that this had pushed up through the oil filler cap. I
will follow Joel's instructions precisely as well as an earlier posting

by

Gary Silver and others about how best to remove and replace the bearings.
We will flush it with benzine and use a white filter cloth to check that
nothing other than oil comes out. I am pretty sure this will be fine
afterwards as this is a new problem as of yesterday only and we have

hardly

motored at all in the past 6 months.

2) I feel *Trevor's* advice is exactly the problem with the ZF Hurth HSW
250H gearbox. We checked the oil as Trevor suggested and the colour is
milky brown plus the level when cold is well above the high marker when
measured. Furthermore when cold the gears engage, and when

warm.....nothing

other than the noise of trying to engage in FWD or Reverse. Clearly the
gasket has failed and cooling water has recently entered the gear oil
chamber.

Our plan of action is to firstly have the gearbox removed and hopefully
reconditioned by ZF here in Australia, then once re-fitted drive her

around

to the hardstand crane to lift out and replace the shaft bearings.
Fortunately the gear box issue is new as I checked the gearbox oil about

1

month ago and it was the same colour red ATF oil as we put in at last
service. Also I am hopeful of no damage to the shaft/Amel Drive since we
have hardly used the engine as we always motor for only about 5 mins only
before setting sail here in Brisbane.

Thanks again to all for the incredible assistance.

Kind regards

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #322



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:35 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@

...>wrote:

**


Hi Colin,
Have you checked the ATF in your gear box? If so what colour is it? You
need to take the level when the yellow dipstick is unscrewed and gently
resting on the gearbox casing.
If you are having gear selection problems due to not enough fluid ,or

sea

water ingress into the gearbox due to the ATF cooler failing, you will

be

able to engage gear when the gearbox is cool but you will hear the wet
clutches make a noise similar to something caught around the prop when

the

gearbox is too hot. You will get propulsion for a while then nothing

except

revs.
Another wild guess have you checked to ensure that the bolts on the

Vetus

coupler are intact?
I hope this will be of some help.
Good luck.
Trevor
Seafever
Sm 425
Mexico


--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson

<karkauai@>

wrote:

Hi Colin.
I think I'm the only other Amel owner to have a failure between the

transmission and the CDrive. The drive shaft between the transmission

and

the first 90 degree gear broke where it stepped down in size. I had a
machine shop in Puerto Rico repair the shaft for a fraction of what new
parts from Amel would cost. There are some pics on the photos section

under

Kristy SM243 folder and if you search messages for "broken C Drive"

you'll

find a lengthy thread about it.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you have other questions?
Kent
SM 243 KRISTY
Brunswick GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>

wrote:

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to

me. I

will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but

cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop
rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the

shaft not

turning..

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals

from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a

local

bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part numbers

/

sizes for these.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop

shaft

seals

have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The

saltwater has

emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid

in

the drive

system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this

increasing

fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you

resealed

the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came

in;

out

through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system

with

plenty

of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by

directing the

exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids

before you

replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is

needed,

please.

Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse

gear would

turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse?

Or is

it that

the motor increases in revolutions with application of more power

but the

output shaft from the transmission to the Amel drive does not

rotate

while

reverse is engaged? Once this is clear, I will try to figure out

the

cause

and a solution.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@

www.yachtworld..com/jfpottercys

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups..com] On Behalf Of

islandpearl2_sm2k332

Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 7:06 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more

that just

briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour

and on

checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the

plastic

filler

cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours

then

I

removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the

cap

top was

warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at

2500+

revs to

check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since

leaks

stopped

...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at

anchorage

to find

no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while

warm. 2

hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is

slightly

milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and

bearing for 2+

years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs

total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences

or

advice

for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*

 

--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Hi Danny

I trust you guys are enjoying a great anchorage somewhere in the the
Pacific. We had put our boat up for sale however having spent some time
aboard again this week, and after getting the feel of cruising in such
comfort again, and also with the sort of help available on this forum when
something went wrong (as happens on all brands of boats), we are now of a
mind to keep her as we wouldn't imagine being happy with anything else now.

Anyhow I will be lifting Island Pearl II out soon to do the annual
maintenance and replace the Prop seals & bearing etc. This also means
servicing the bow thruster again and hence I wanted to re-visit the idea of
putting a grease/oil mixture in as you and others have done to avoid the
leaks.

Last time I replaced with the appropriate oil only since I eventually
managed to re-seat the oil bearings really nicely and left it in the sun
for a day with no leaks at all. What I had found was that the leaks
appeared when the sun had been baking on the unit for a while as the oil
warmed up and found it's way through as viscosity changed. Eventually
successful and happy with no leaks I put her back in the water and had no
problems for about 6 months then one day up here in the QLD warmer waters
noticed a little oil on the water again after thruster use.

Based on this I am thinking of putting a 10% compatible grease and oil
mixture on this next slip. Last time after talking to you we experimented
with a ratio from 50% down to 10% grease and found that when really well
mixed the 10% mixture was pretty thick and would still stand up little when
pulling an object out of the mixture.Our main concern related to how one
got the grease out afterwards when dirty, however prefer the though of some
in there than nothing if the oil only mixture all leaks out...

My question one year later is... how is your bow thruster going with the
50/50 ratio of grease? Have you serviced it again since and how did you get
the grease out? Are you still of a mind that this would be a good idea? I
think some others on the forum tried the grease solution too so would also
like to hear from anyone else on this subject too.

Fair Winds

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K#332
Brisbane Australia


the fact that


On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 11:00 AM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
<simms@...>wrote:

**


Hi Trevor,
thankls for the comment re ease of moving the motor, BUT we are Ocean
Pearl, not Island Pearl.
Cheers
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl

________________________________
From: seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, 25 July 2013 9:29 PM

Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE


Hi Colin,
It sounds like you have pumped out most of the ATF and replaced it with
seawater which gives you that brown/grey color due to the water emulsifying
with the grease in the gearbox bearings.
It is equally important to replace the ATF cooler which is the likely
cause of the problem.
There is a very good posting from Danny on the original Island Pearl on
the ease of gearbox removal etc.
I replaced my Hurth gearbox earlier this year at around US $ 3000 for the
parts.
Regards,
Trevor

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Colin Streeter
<colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Dear Joel, Bill, Trevor, Kent and All

Thank you all once again for the swift assistance and incredibly helpful
advice at such a critical time for us all on board. This group is simply
amazing and a huge comfort.

Based on the fact that we have a 3 week wait for a lift onto the hard

stand

and for mechanical assistance, and on reading earlier postings we decided
to engage FWD gear and run slowly into our marina berth without taking it
out of gear at all (since we previously found it would not re-engage gear
once the gearbox had warmed up). Thankfully the gears held for the 15min
slow run in and with the aid of the bow thruster and wind direction we

were

able to dock safely without using reverse gear and so she is safely home.

In terms of all your advice I am now pretty sure we have the following

two

problems:

1) I think* Joel* is absolutely spot on with the tip that the shaft
bearings/seals have possibly failed and that sea water has recently got
into the drive and that this had pushed up through the oil filler cap. I
will follow Joel's instructions precisely as well as an earlier posting

by

Gary Silver and others about how best to remove and replace the bearings.
We will flush it with benzine and use a white filter cloth to check that
nothing other than oil comes out. I am pretty sure this will be fine
afterwards as this is a new problem as of yesterday only and we have

hardly

motored at all in the past 6 months.

2) I feel *Trevor's* advice is exactly the problem with the ZF Hurth HSW
250H gearbox. We checked the oil as Trevor suggested and the colour is
milky brown plus the level when cold is well above the high marker when
measured. Furthermore when cold the gears engage, and when

warm.....nothing

other than the noise of trying to engage in FWD or Reverse. Clearly the
gasket has failed and cooling water has recently entered the gear oil
chamber.

Our plan of action is to firstly have the gearbox removed and hopefully
reconditioned by ZF here in Australia, then once re-fitted drive her

around

to the hardstand crane to lift out and replace the shaft bearings.
Fortunately the gear box issue is new as I checked the gearbox oil about

1

month ago and it was the same colour red ATF oil as we put in at last
service. Also I am hopeful of no damage to the shaft/Amel Drive since we
have hardly used the engine as we always motor for only about 5 mins only
before setting sail here in Brisbane.

Thanks again to all for the incredible assistance.

Kind regards

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #322



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:35 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@

...>wrote:

**


Hi Colin,
Have you checked the ATF in your gear box? If so what colour is it? You
need to take the level when the yellow dipstick is unscrewed and gently
resting on the gearbox casing.
If you are having gear selection problems due to not enough fluid ,or

sea

water ingress into the gearbox due to the ATF cooler failing, you will

be

able to engage gear when the gearbox is cool but you will hear the wet
clutches make a noise similar to something caught around the prop when

the

gearbox is too hot. You will get propulsion for a while then nothing

except

revs.
Another wild guess have you checked to ensure that the bolts on the

Vetus

coupler are intact?
I hope this will be of some help.
Good luck.
Trevor
Seafever
Sm 425
Mexico


--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson

<karkauai@>

wrote:

Hi Colin.
I think I'm the only other Amel owner to have a failure between the

transmission and the CDrive. The drive shaft between the transmission

and

the first 90 degree gear broke where it stepped down in size. I had a
machine shop in Puerto Rico repair the shaft for a fraction of what new
parts from Amel would cost. There are some pics on the photos section

under

Kristy SM243 folder and if you search messages for "broken C Drive"

you'll

find a lengthy thread about it.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you have other questions?
Kent
SM 243 KRISTY
Brunswick GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>

wrote:

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to

me. I

will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but

cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop
rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the

shaft not

turning..

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals

from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a

local

bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part numbers

/

sizes for these.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop

shaft

seals

have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The

saltwater has

emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid

in

the drive

system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this

increasing

fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you

resealed

the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came

in;

out

through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system

with

plenty

of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by

directing the

exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids

before you

replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is

needed,

please.

Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse

gear would

turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse?

Or is

it that

the motor increases in revolutions with application of more power

but the

output shaft from the transmission to the Amel drive does not

rotate

while

reverse is engaged? Once this is clear, I will try to figure out

the

cause

and a solution.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of

islandpearl2_sm2k332

Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 7:06 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more

that just

briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour

and on

checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the

plastic

filler

cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours

then

I

removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the

cap

top was

warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at

2500+

revs to

check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since

leaks

stopped

...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at

anchorage

to find

no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while

warm. 2

hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is

slightly

milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and

bearing for 2+

years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs

total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences

or

advice

for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*

Hi Trevor,
thankls for the comment re ease of moving the motor, BUT we are Ocean Pearl, not Island Pearl.
Cheers
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl


________________________________
From: seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, 25 July 2013 9:29 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

 
Hi Colin,
It sounds like you have pumped out most of the ATF and replaced it with seawater which gives you that brown/grey color due to the water emulsifying with the grease in the gearbox bearings.
It is equally important to replace the ATF cooler which is the likely cause of the problem.
There is a very good posting from Danny on the original Island Pearl on the ease of gearbox removal etc.
I replaced my Hurth gearbox earlier this year at around US $ 3000 for the parts.
Regards,
Trevor

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Dear Joel, Bill, Trevor, Kent and All

Thank you all once again for the swift assistance and incredibly helpful
advice at such a critical time for us all on board. This group is simply
amazing and a huge comfort.

Based on the fact that we have a 3 week wait for a lift onto the hard stand
and for mechanical assistance, and on reading earlier postings we decided
to engage FWD gear and run slowly into our marina berth without taking it
out of gear at all (since we previously found it would not re-engage gear
once the gearbox had warmed up). Thankfully the gears held for the 15min
slow run in and with the aid of the bow thruster and wind direction we were
able to dock safely without using reverse gear and so she is safely home.

In terms of all your advice I am now pretty sure we have the following two
problems:

1) I think* Joel* is absolutely spot on with the tip that the shaft
bearings/seals have possibly failed and that sea water has recently got
into the drive and that this had pushed up through the oil filler cap. I
will follow Joel's instructions precisely as well as an earlier posting by
Gary Silver and others about how best to remove and replace the bearings.
We will flush it with benzine and use a white filter cloth to check that
nothing other than oil comes out. I am pretty sure this will be fine
afterwards as this is a new problem as of yesterday only and we have hardly
motored at all in the past 6 months.

2) I feel *Trevor's* advice is exactly the problem with the ZF Hurth HSW
250H gearbox. We checked the oil as Trevor suggested and the colour is
milky brown plus the level when cold is well above the high marker when
measured. Furthermore when cold the gears engage, and when warm.....nothing
other than the noise of trying to engage in FWD or Reverse. Clearly the
gasket has failed and cooling water has recently entered the gear oil
chamber.

Our plan of action is to firstly have the gearbox removed and hopefully
reconditioned by ZF here in Australia, then once re-fitted drive her around
to the hardstand crane to lift out and replace the shaft bearings.
Fortunately the gear box issue is new as I checked the gearbox oil about 1
month ago and it was the same colour red ATF oil as we put in at last
service. Also I am hopeful of no damage to the shaft/Amel Drive since we
have hardly used the engine as we always motor for only about 5 mins only
before setting sail here in Brisbane.

Thanks again to all for the incredible assistance.

Kind regards

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #322



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:35 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>wrote:

**


Hi Colin,
Have you checked the ATF in your gear box? If so what colour is it? You
need to take the level when the yellow dipstick is unscrewed and gently
resting on the gearbox casing.
If you are having gear selection problems due to not enough fluid ,or sea
water ingress into the gearbox due to the ATF cooler failing, you will be
able to engage gear when the gearbox is cool but you will hear the wet
clutches make a noise similar to something caught around the prop when the
gearbox is too hot. You will get propulsion for a while then nothing except
revs.
Another wild guess have you checked to ensure that the bolts on the Vetus
coupler are intact?
I hope this will be of some help.
Good luck.
Trevor
Seafever
Sm 425
Mexico


--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@>
wrote:

Hi Colin.
I think I'm the only other Amel owner to have a failure between the

transmission and the CDrive. The drive shaft between the transmission and
the first 90 degree gear broke where it stepped down in size. I had a
machine shop in Puerto Rico repair the shaft for a fraction of what new
parts from Amel would cost. There are some pics on the photos section under
Kristy SM243 folder and if you search messages for "broken C Drive" you'll
find a lengthy thread about it.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you have other questions?
Kent
SM 243 KRISTY
Brunswick GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>

wrote:

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to me. I

will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but

cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop
rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the shaft not
turning..

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals

from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a local
bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part numbers /
sizes for these.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop shaft

seals

have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The

saltwater has

emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid in

the drive

system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this

increasing

fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you

resealed

the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came in;

out

through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system with

plenty

of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by

directing the

exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids

before you

replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is needed,

please.

Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse

gear would

turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse? Or is

it that

the motor increases in revolutions with application of more power

but the

output shaft from the transmission to the Amel drive does not rotate

while

reverse is engaged? Once this is clear, I will try to figure out the

cause

and a solution.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of

islandpearl2_sm2k332

Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 7:06 AM
To: mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more

that just

briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic

filler

cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then

I

removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap

top was

warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+

revs to

check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks

stopped

...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage

to find

no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while

warm. 2

hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is

slightly

milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and

bearing for 2+

years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or

advice

for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Trevor

I am trying to source a new gearbox today and would greatly appreciate it
is you could let me know who supplied this and the other parts to you. We
got in touch with Maud at Amel yesterday with the same question, as well as
ZF in Australia and are waiting for responses however it may be quicker and
certainly cheaper to go through your supplier if they freight it
internationally. Were you able to find the exact same gearbox? My version
was the ZF Hurth Marine Arco Italy HBW 250H 2.8R with ratios A 2.8 & B 2.8.
I have the Yanmar 75HP 4JH3-TE motor not the 100HP.

Kind regards
Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k #332

can't


On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 3:13 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>wrote:

**


Colin,
The rust is normal and of little consequence. The hydraulic pump inside
the gearbox creates the pressure to open the brake pads when the engine is
running. Therefore if you have no hydraulic pressure the brake pads will
remain closed and firmly attached to the brake disk. Both brake pads should
be closed against the disk when the engine is stopped or as now when you
have no pressure if they are wearing unevenly
it is because the round cylinder that you can see that controls the pads
is out of alignment and can easily be straightened by packing a piece of
rubber between the cylinder and the angle iron frame it is mounted on.
If your pads are worn unevenly now is a good time to take them to a brake
shop and they will reline the pads. Be careful when removing them as there
is a little spring which will drop out.
I checked my Paypal account $ 3355.30 including a clutch plate which is
around $100 and hoses , fittings etc.
When removing the gearbox it would be a good idea to replace the rubber
bushes in the Vetus coupler and you will probably need a puller to get the
flange off the drive shaft. In my case I made one out of a scrap piece of
12mm steel plate and put a socket between the shaft and the plate and
tightened it up and eventually the flange surrendered.
Regards,
Trevor

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@...>
wrote:

Hi All

Just re-read Bill's comment and had another look at the Autoprop shaft
brake a short while ago. Interestingly when the engine is off the brake
caliper on the one side only, (ie. closest to the engine) remains presses
against the flywheel disc. Is this normal? When should the brake calipers
be presses against the wheel and when should they be pulled away from it?
Perhaps this was causing the problem however I am not sure how it could

do

so other than straining (& hence overheating) the gearbox if it had
remained clamped on the flywheel disc? Any experiences/comments about

this

would be greatly valued?

Also looking at the shaft brake system I am getting slight surface
rust/dust on it. Is there a good product I should be using to clean and
keep it rust free?

Fair winds

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - sm2k # 332



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 2:38 PM, Colin Streeter
<colin.d.streeter@...>wrote:

Dear Joel, Bill, Trevor, Kent and All

Thank you all once again for the swift assistance and incredibly

helpful

advice at such a critical time for us all on board. This group is

simply

amazing and a huge comfort.

Based on the fact that we have a 3 week wait for a lift onto the hard
stand and for mechanical assistance, and on reading earlier postings we
decided to engage FWD gear and run slowly into our marina berth without
taking it out of gear at all (since we previously found it would not
re-engage gear once the gearbox had warmed up). Thankfully the gears

held

for the 15min slow run in and with the aid of the bow thruster and wind
direction we were able to dock safely without using reverse gear and

so she

is safely home.

In terms of all your advice I am now pretty sure we have the following

two

problems:

1) I think* Joel* is absolutely spot on with the tip that the shaft

bearings/seals have possibly failed and that sea water has recently got
into the drive and that this had pushed up through the oil filler cap.

I

will follow Joel's instructions precisely as well as an earlier

posting by

Gary Silver and others about how best to remove and replace the

bearings.

We will flush it with benzine and use a white filter cloth to check

that

nothing other than oil comes out. I am pretty sure this will be fine
afterwards as this is a new problem as of yesterday only and we have

hardly

motored at all in the past 6 months.

2) I feel *Trevor's* advice is exactly the problem with the ZF Hurth

HSW

250H gearbox. We checked the oil as Trevor suggested and the colour is
milky brown plus the level when cold is well above the high marker when
measured. Furthermore when cold the gears engage, and when

warm.....nothing

other than the noise of trying to engage in FWD or Reverse. Clearly the
gasket has failed and cooling water has recently entered the gear oil
chamber.

Our plan of action is to firstly have the gearbox removed and hopefully
reconditioned by ZF here in Australia, then once re-fitted drive her

around

to the hardstand crane to lift out and replace the shaft bearings.
Fortunately the gear box issue is new as I checked the gearbox oil

about 1

month ago and it was the same colour red ATF oil as we put in at last
service. Also I am hopeful of no damage to the shaft/Amel Drive since

we

have hardly used the engine as we always motor for only about 5 mins

only

before setting sail here in Brisbane.

Thanks again to all for the incredible assistance.

Kind regards

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #322



On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 5:35 AM, seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@

...>wrote:

**

Hi Colin,
Have you checked the ATF in your gear box? If so what colour is it?

You

need to take the level when the yellow dipstick is unscrewed and

gently

resting on the gearbox casing.
If you are having gear selection problems due to not enough fluid ,or

sea

water ingress into the gearbox due to the ATF cooler failing, you

will be

able to engage gear when the gearbox is cool but you will hear the wet
clutches make a noise similar to something caught around the prop

when the

gearbox is too hot. You will get propulsion for a while then nothing

except

revs.
Another wild guess have you checked to ensure that the bolts on the

Vetus

coupler are intact?
I hope this will be of some help.
Good luck.
Trevor
Seafever
Sm 425
Mexico


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@>
wrote:

Hi Colin.
I think I'm the only other Amel owner to have a failure between the

transmission and the CDrive. The drive shaft between the transmission

and

the first 90 degree gear broke where it stepped down in size. I had a
machine shop in Puerto Rico repair the shaft for a fraction of what

new

parts from Amel would cost. There are some pics on the photos section

under

Kristy SM243 folder and if you search messages for "broken C Drive"

you'll

find a lengthy thread about it.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you have other questions?
Kent
SM 243 KRISTY
Brunswick GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Colin Streeter <colin.d.streeter@>

wrote:

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to

me.

I will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but

cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop
rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the

shaft not

turning..

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals

from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a

local

bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part

numbers /

sizes for these.

Best regards
Colin

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop

shaft seals

have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The

saltwater has

emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid

in

the drive

system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this

increasing

fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you

resealed

the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came

in;

out

through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system

with plenty

of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by

directing the

exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids

before you

replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is

needed, please.

Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse

gear would

turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse?

Or

is it that

the motor increases in revolutions with application of more

power

but the

output shaft from the transmission to the Amel drive does not

rotate while

reverse is engaged? Once this is clear, I will try to figure out

the cause

and a solution.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of

islandpearl2_sm2k332

Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 7:06 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months

more

that just

briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour

and on

checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the

plastic

filler

cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours

then I

removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the

cap top was

warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at

2500+

revs to

check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since

leaks

stopped

...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at

anchorage

to find

no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while

warm. 2

hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is

slightly

milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and

bearing for 2+

years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs

total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences

or

advice

for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*

--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
*Colin Streeter*
*0411 016 445*

Hi Eric. Jacques Carteau, Captain Amel’s right hand man, said stainless (inox) only.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 1:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





I bought mine from another supplier and requested stainless. It took an extra three Wks to get them. They are not attracted to a magnet.
Kent
SM243 KRISTY
Brunswick, GA USA
On Jul 24, 2013, at 10:30 PM, Sailorman <kimberlite@... <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> > wrote:

Hi Joel.

I pulled a few springs out of Amel supplied lip seals and they stuck like
glue to a magnet.

Are the springs definitely stainless?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Joel F Potter
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not 'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.

All the best,

Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@... <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net> <mailto:jfpottercys%40att.net>

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in

gear?

**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need

checking:

***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the

culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the

prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that

just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I

removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs

to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is

slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or

advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

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