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Re: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

amelforme
 

Bill, Colin, Everybody.the more suggestions, the better. What we need to
know now is if the shaft coming out of the reduction gear/reverser is
turning when selecting forward and aft and if the speed of the revolutions
seems commensurate with the increase in engine R.P.M.

Colin, you can get the seals from any good bearing supply shop but be
absolutely certain than the springs on the inside that effect the actual
sealing are non-ferrous/stainless steel. The wear bushing can also be made
locally but is a bit more tricky. There are several postings/threads that
address these issues within the site.

Let us know about the rotation and we will try to help. Also, check your
reduction gear/reverser fluid to be sure it is clear of debris, not 'burnt'
smelling, and certainly not milky and foamy in appearance and let us know
that as well.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of svbebe
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 10:09 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you help
from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe"
<yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in
gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need
checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the
culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the
prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C
Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "islandpearl2_sm2k332"
<colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that
just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs
to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks
stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage
to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while
warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is
slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and
bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472
hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or
advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia
Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Colin,

Sorry, I did not see Joel's answer before I attempted to help...get you help from Joel as he knows our boats better than anyone.

Bill
BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "islandpearl2_sm2k332" <colin.d.streeter@> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia
Re: HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Colin,

I will take a stab at trying to help.

**Is the shaft turning between the gearbox and the Amel C Drive when in gear?
**If it is, are you sure that you have a prop attached to the shaft?
**If the shaft is not turning when in gear, two possibilities that need checking:
***The gearbox
***The shaft brake

I will take a wild-ass guess that the shaft brake system may be the culprit. Possibly oil got on the shaft brake and caused the pads to swell.

Additionally, your brass wear bushing and 3 seals need replacing on the prop shaft because they are worn enough to let water egress into the C Drive. Do you know when these were replaced?

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently in Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "islandpearl2_sm2k332" <colin.d.streeter@...> wrote:

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia
Re: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Joel

Thank you for this excellent advice which makes perfect sense to me. I will follow your suggestions here.

In terms of the 2nd problem I feel it is your latter version but cannot be sure as could not dive in this water to check on the prop rotation. The auto prop is in good condition so I feel it was the shaft not turning..

Lastly do I need to order specialist prop shaft bearings and seals from Amel or are these generic products that I could purchase from a local bearings dealer? Would greatly appreciate the specs &/ or part numbers / sizes for these.

Best regards
Colin
On 24/07/2013, at 9:58 PM, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

Hello Colin.

It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop shaft seals
have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The saltwater has
emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid in the drive
system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this increasing
fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you resealed
the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came in; out
through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system with plenty
of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by directing the
exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids before you
replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.

Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is needed, please.
Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse gear would
turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse? Or is it that
the motor increases in revolutions with application of more power but the
output shaft from the transmission to the Amel drive does not rotate while
reverse is engaged? Once this is clear, I will try to figure out the cause
and a solution.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of islandpearl2_sm2k332
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 7:06 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that just
briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs to
check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks stopped
...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage to find
no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while warm. 2
hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is slightly
milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and bearing for 2+
years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or advice
for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE

amelforme
 

Hello Colin.



It would appear that you have at least two problems. Your prop shaft seals
have failed and saltwater has entered the drive system. The saltwater has
emulsified the oil inside and has increased the volume of fluid in the drive
system. As your reservoir had a small defect that allowed this increasing
fluid volume to escape, that's where the mess came out. Once you resealed
the reservoir, the emulsified mess is now exiting where it came in; out
through the shaft seals. Be sure to flush the Amel drive system with plenty
of kerosene and check what comes out for metal particles by directing the
exit flow through white cloth that would filter out any solids before you
replace the shaft seals and refill the unit with oil.



Not sure about your second problem and some clarification is needed, please.
Are you saying the output shaft from the reduction drive/reverse gear would
turn but the prop would not 'engage'/move the boat in reverse? Or is it that
the motor increases in revolutions with application of more power but the
output shaft from the transmission to the Amel drive does not rotate while
reverse is engaged? Once this is clear, I will try to figure out the cause
and a solution.



All the best,

Joel F. Potter





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: jfpottercys@...

www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of islandpearl2_sm2k332
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2013 7:06 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] HELP - AMEL DRIVE





Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that just
briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on
checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler
cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I
removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was
warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs to
check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks stopped
...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage to find
no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while warm. 2
hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is slightly
milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and bearing for 2+
years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or advice
for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia
HELP - AMEL DRIVE

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Dear All

After not using the motor in drive position for a few months more that just briefly to sail each time we needed to motor for about 1 hour and on checking the engine bay I found drive oil coming out of the plastic filler cap on the drive oil filler tank.

We immediately stopped the engine and sailed for a couple hours then I removed the filler cap and found that the rubber seal inside the cap top was warped and therefore the leak.

When this was repaired I drove the motor for about 40mins at 2500+ revs to check and no more leaks.... thought problem was solved since leaks stopped ...until trying to engage reverse (or forwards again) at anchorage to find no prop engagement ... just spins & would not engage prop while warm. 2 hours later when cold both FWD & REV does engage prop.

Not much oil leaked out - still sufficient in there. Also oil is slightly milky brown colour and I have not changed the shaft seals and bearing for 2+ years or 750hrs of motoring. The engine hours are now 1472 hrs total.

Would greatly value your comments about any similar experiences or advice for us and what parts we may need to order..

Thank you

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II - SM2K #332
Brisbane Australia
Re: [Amel] Re: headsail furler problem

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi all,
if you go back in the files you will find my posting as to fitting grease nipples to the gearbox of the headsail furler. (and the mainsail furler and outhaul) Doing this will extend the life of the gearboxs by many years.
Regards
Danny
SM299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Vuda Point Marina FIJI


________________________________
From: minaxi53 <bob@bourlet..com>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, 23 July 2013 11:55 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: headsail furler problem

 
Alain
I would be interested in seeing your work. My furler is still working but I recently had the motor rebuilt and checked the gears at the same time, I think it is only a matter of time before they fail due to wear, my Sm6 is almost 25 years old.
I also was quoted ridiculous price for the motor, the rebuild in New York cost $600.
Bob
s/v Minaxi sm6

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "Alain Feuillet" <alainfeuillet@...> wrote:

Hello Yoav and all,
Early this year my genoa furler broke.. Pilgrim is SM #26 built in 1990. A
small pin on the traveller command became loose and went into the gears,
breaking teeth of the electric driven wheel.
Amel has no spare parts but proposed me an identical model for 7200ˆ,
claiming that an equivalent from Antal is worth 12000ˆ. I got the new parts
from a machining shop in Athena, being in Greece at that time. Total cost of
repair 700ˆ including local mechanichs manhours.
I have photos of this work and drawings from Amel.
First we need to identify your model. I can send you the drawings I got from
Amel (Colette Limouzy; Aftersale in La Rochelle)
If others are interested by the photos and drawings I can put them in the
photos section but I need some guidance to have it done.
Cheers
Alain
PILGRIM SM #26
Re: headsail furler problem

minaxi53
 

Alain
I would be interested in seeing your work. My furler is still working but I recently had the motor rebuilt and checked the gears at the same time, I think it is only a matter of time before they fail due to wear, my Sm6 is almost 25 years old.
I also was quoted ridiculous price for the motor, the rebuild in New York cost $600.
Bob
s/v Minaxi sm6

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Alain Feuillet" <alainfeuillet@...> wrote:

Hello Yoav and all,
Early this year my genoa furler broke. Pilgrim is SM #26 built in 1990. A
small pin on the traveller command became loose and went into the gears,
breaking teeth of the electric driven wheel.
Amel has no spare parts but proposed me an identical model for 7200ˆ,
claiming that an equivalent from Antal is worth 12000ˆ. I got the new parts
from a machining shop in Athena, being in Greece at that time. Total cost of
repair 700ˆ including local mechanichs manhours.
I have photos of this work and drawings from Amel.
First we need to identify your model. I can send you the drawings I got from
Amel (Colette Limouzy; Aftersale in La Rochelle)
If others are interested by the photos and drawings I can put them in the
photos section but I need some guidance to have it done.
Cheers
Alain
PILGRIM SM #26


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [Amel] Re: headsail furler problem

hanspeter baettig
 

Dear Alain
can you post the photos in the photo section ? Also I'm interested in the mentioned drawings.
you can send it (ev.with photos on my private email adress. hanspeter.baettig ät bluemail.ch

Best regards
Hanspeter
Tamango 2 SM 16
----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----
Von : alainfeuillet@...
Datum : 23/07/2013 - 08:51 (UTC)
An : amelyachtowners@...
Cc : dave_benjamin@..., yoavli@...
Betreff : [Amel] Re: headsail furler problem

Hello Yoav and all,
Early this year my genoa furler broke. Pilgrim is SM #26 built in 1990. A
small pin on the traveller command became loose and went into the gears,
breaking teeth of the electric driven wheel.
Amel has no spare parts but proposed me an identical model for 7200ˆ,
claiming that an equivalent from Antal is worth 12000ˆ. I got the new parts
from a machining shop in Athena, being in Greece at that time. Total cost of
repair 700ˆ including local mechanichs manhours.
I have photos of this work and drawings from Amel.
First we need to identify your model. I can send you the drawings I got from
Amel (Colette Limouzy; Aftersale in La Rochelle)
If others are interested by the photos and drawings I can put them in the
photos section but I need some guidance to have it done.
Cheers
Alain
PILGRIM SM #26


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Amel] Re: headsail furler problem

Jean Boucharlat
 

Just as a note to everyone, Colette Limousin, to whom I pay here my utmost
respect, has now retired. The boss of SAV has been Christian Dufourd for a
couple years and the lady to contact is Maud.

Jean Boucharlat
Formerly SM 232

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Alain Feuillet
Sent: mardi 23 juillet 2013 08:52
To: amelyachtowners@...
Cc: dave_benjamin@...; yoavli@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: headsail furler problem

Hello Yoav and all,
Early this year my genoa furler broke. Pilgrim is SM #26 built in 1990. A
small pin on the traveller command became loose and went into the gears,
breaking teeth of the electric driven wheel.
Amel has no spare parts but proposed me an identical model for 7200^,
claiming that an equivalent from Antal is worth 12000^. I got the new parts
from a machining shop in Athena, being in Greece at that time. Total cost of
repair 700^ including local mechanichs manhours.
I have photos of this work and drawings from Amel.
First we need to identify your model. I can send you the drawings I got from
Amel (Colette Limouzy; Aftersale in La Rochelle) If others are interested by
the photos and drawings I can put them in the photos section but I need some
guidance to have it done.
Cheers
Alain
PILGRIM SM #26






------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: headsail furler problem

Alain Feuillet <alainfeuillet@...>
 

Hello Yoav and all,
Early this year my genoa furler broke. Pilgrim is SM #26 built in 1990. A
small pin on the traveller command became loose and went into the gears,
breaking teeth of the electric driven wheel.
Amel has no spare parts but proposed me an identical model for 7200ˆ,
claiming that an equivalent from Antal is worth 12000ˆ. I got the new parts
from a machining shop in Athena, being in Greece at that time. Total cost of
repair 700ˆ including local mechanichs manhours.
I have photos of this work and drawings from Amel.
First we need to identify your model. I can send you the drawings I got from
Amel (Colette Limouzy; Aftersale in La Rochelle)
If others are interested by the photos and drawings I can put them in the
photos section but I need some guidance to have it done.
Cheers
Alain
PILGRIM SM #26
Re: [Amel] Re: turbo smoking

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, Thanks for the suggestion. I will look into turbowash and see if any
oil is seeping from the turbo.

Thanks Again,

Pat SM 123
Re: [Amel] raymarine s3g course computer

kimberlite@...
 

my 400g and s2g both were complete with a built in gyro and smart learning program.
they were much better than my old 300 model
eric
sm376 kimberlite

----- Original Message -----
From: Lior Keydar
Date: Monday, July 22, 2013 2:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel] raymarine s3g course computer
To: "amelyachtowners@..."

i am not sure but i think that this unit is only the GIRO option
to the S2 and s3 bord computer that came later.
is it the whole auto pilot bord computer?

lior
amel 54 #18 gnom 7

נשלח מה-iPad שלי

ב-22.07.2013, בשעה 03:16, Sailorman כתב/ה:

I believe the one on eBay is interchangeable.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Lior
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] raymarine s3g course computer





hi eric

thanks a lot. it is not the one i need.
i have only one auto pilot and it is with the raymarine s3g
bord computer. I
would like to get another s3g as a spare. any way i think I
have found one.

thanks
lior

á-20 áéåì 2013, áùòä 21:18, kimberlite@...
ëúá/ä:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYMARINE-E12102-GYROPLUS-2-SHS-BOAT-
AUTOPILOT-PATHF
INDER-SMART-HEADING-SYSTEM-
/231018060875?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear>
AUTOPILOT-PATH
FINDER-SMART-HEADING-SYSTEM-
/231018060875?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&has>
h=item35c9bfdc4b&vxp=mtr> &hash=item35c9bfdc4b&vxp=mtr

I believe this will replace the 300 autopilot.
I have it on my boat. you might also call raymarine. Many
times they have
old rebuilt units in the warehouse
eric sm 376 kimberlite




----- Original Message -----
From: Lior
Date: Friday, July 19, 2013 8:42 am
Subject: [Amel] raymarine s3g course computer
To: amelyachtowners@...

hi

i would like to buy a used s3g as a spare.
maybe someone has one for sell or can advice me where i
could
get one?

thanks in advance
lior




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: headsail furler problem

Dave_Benjamin
 

Yoav,

Since it's a 95, it should be an Amel manufactured gearbox. Can you describe the damage? Did it get overloaded and something broke? I don't know how familiar you are with the furler, but there is a lever to disengage the transmission and it that was inadvertently dislodged, the unit would not function.

When you emailed Amel, did you send to sav@... or another address? If you are able to write in French, I think you will get a more prompt reply. You don't need to know the exact model of the furler as long as you can tell them the hull number. They should know what was installed.

Please let the group know more specifics as to what happened prior to the unit failing. Unless it was overloaded, I can't imagine a component breaking as they are fairly sturdy. Someone here should have the diagram of the components. I have one but it's for an earlier model.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "yoavli" <yoavli@...> wrote:

Well thanks david
First the model is 1995 and its the geneoa furler.well i sent mail to amel shipyard but it sims like they on vecation and i dont know the model of the furler. do you know if the gearbox is fixable or i have to replace it.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@> wrote:

Yoav,

Is this a mainsail or genoa furler?
What year and model Amel? Do you know if it's a Nirvana or Amel manufactured unit?
Where is the boat located?


--- In amelyachtowners@..., yoav baz <yoavli@> wrote:


Helo my name is yoav and last week my furler gearbox is damaged and i have to open it.i dont know the model or if there is parts for this . Can you guiDe me . Help is needed thanks ahead.
Re: [Amel] raymarine s3g course computer

Lior Keydar <lior246@...>
 

i am not sure but i think that this unit is only the GIRO option to the S2 and s3 bord computer that came later.
is it the whole auto pilot bord computer?

lior
amel 54 #18 gnom 7

נשלח מה-iPad שלי

ב-22.07.2013, בשעה 03:16, Sailorman <kimberlite@...> כתב/ה:

I believe the one on eBay is interchangeable.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Lior
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] raymarine s3g course computer





hi eric

thanks a lot. it is not the one i need.
i have only one auto pilot and it is with the raymarine s3g bord computer. I
would like to get another s3g as a spare. any way i think I have found one.

thanks
lior

á-20 áéåì 2013, áùòä 21:18, kimberlite@...
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> ëúá/ä:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYMARINE-E12102-GYROPLUS-2-SHS-BOAT-AUTOPILOT-PATHF
INDER-SMART-HEADING-SYSTEM-/231018060875?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYMARINE-E12102-GYROPLUS-2-SHS-BOAT-AUTOPILOT-PATH
FINDER-SMART-HEADING-SYSTEM-/231018060875?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&has
h=item35c9bfdc4b&vxp=mtr> &hash=item35c9bfdc4b&vxp=mtr

I believe this will replace the 300 autopilot.
I have it on my boat. you might also call raymarine. Many times they have
old rebuilt units in the warehouse
eric sm 376 kimberlite




----- Original Message -----
From: Lior
Date: Friday, July 19, 2013 8:42 am
Subject: [Amel] raymarine s3g course computer
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

hi

i would like to buy a used s3g as a spare.
maybe someone has one for sell or can advice me where i could
get one?

thanks in advance
lior




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Re: [Amel] rudder removal maramu

Nat Bossett
 

#29 Exit Strategy (1979) is just up the road from First Love right now and
it might be good to compare stiffness and parts.

-Nathan

(in contract on #29)

On Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 04:21:27PM -0000, amelmaramu74 wrote:
Has anyone had the rudder removed for inspection and had very stiff
steering issues. How easy is the access to the hinges bolts and what
method was used to eliminate the friction of the rudder post. Would much
appreciate any input since the boat is currently hauled out. Maramu #74
year 1980 "First Love". Caroline Smith



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Re: rudder removal maramu

seafeverofcuan <seafeverofcuan@...>
 

Dear Caroline,
forgive me if these suggestions sound ridiculous but I have experienced them.
Firstly if you have a chain driven autopilot and the chain has tightened up due to lack of lubrication or rust, it will seriously stiffen the rudder function. Same thing with the cables.
If there is any doubt disconnect the cables at the quadrant to prove it is a rudder stock issue.
I am not on my boat at present but someone on this forum should be able to email you with a rudder drawing if there isn't already one posted in the files?
Best regards,
Trevor (Ireland)
Seafever SM 425 (Mexico)

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "amelmaramu74" <amelmaramu74@...> wrote:

Has anyone had the rudder removed for inspection and had very stiff steering issues. How easy is the access to the hinges bolts and what method was used to eliminate the friction of the rudder post. Would much appreciate any input since the boat is currently hauled out. Maramu #74 year 1980 "First Love". Caroline Smith
rudder removal maramu

amelmaramu74 <amelmaramu74@...>
 

Has anyone had the rudder removed for inspection and had very stiff steering issues. How easy is the access to the hinges bolts and what method was used to eliminate the friction of the rudder post. Would much appreciate any input since the boat is currently hauled out. Maramu #74 year 1980 "First Love". Caroline Smith
Re: headsail furler problem

yoav baz
 

Well thanks david
First the model is 1995 and its the geneoa furler.well i sent mail to amel shipyard but it sims like they on vecation and i dont know the model of the furler. do you know if the gearbox is fixable or i have to replace it.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

Yoav,

Is this a mainsail or genoa furler?
What year and model Amel? Do you know if it's a Nirvana or Amel manufactured unit?
Where is the boat located?


--- In amelyachtowners@..., yoav baz <yoavli@> wrote:


Helo my name is yoav and last week my furler gearbox is damaged and i have to open it.i dont know the model or if there is parts for this . Can you guiDe me . Help is needed thanks ahead.
Re: turbo smoking

Mark Erdos
 

I think I would start by cleaning the turbo. This can be done quite easily.
This will remove any oil and oil returns you will know it is not normal. It
is best to use turbo cleaning fluid but if that is unavailable a dishwashing
liquid solution can be used. See my notes from Bill Rouse:



Yanmar Engine TURBOWASH

If the engine begins to smoke while underway firstly check the hull and
propeller for fouling, the injectors for condition and the turbocharger for
damage. If these are all OK, TURBOWASH the turbocharger.
TURBOWASH is a genuine Yanmar part, don't let any ignorant dealer tell you
otherwise. The dealer should be repacking the TURBOWASH from the large
container and selling it in 250cc / 8oz bottles, not fitting you up with a
lifetime supply!

. Thunder down the harbor with the engine at 75% load and spray up
to 25mls of TURBOWASH into the air intake over about 15 seconds.

. Wait a bit

. Spray an equivalent amount of clean fresh water into the air
intake

. If it doesn't come clean, try up to 4 times.

In some manuals Yanmar recommend using dishwashing liquid if TURBOWASH is
not available. In my experience it doesn't do the job whereas TURBOWASH
cleans right around the bend. I can only recommend the proper product, it
really works!



I would also check the mixing elbow. Make sure it does not have build up
inside (this can cause the turbo to heat up) and no pin holes at the weld.



There are oil seals located inside the turbo that would require dismantling
to replace. I am not that familiar with the Volvo unit, but I would assume
it has oil lubrication therefore I would check the in and out unit seals and
joints first for any obvious signs. If you still have oil inside the turbo
after this. You will probably need to rebuild the unit with new internal
seals. How many hours are on the unit?





Best regards,



Mark

SM2K #275

www.creampuff.us
54321 - 54340 of 67914