On Sat, Nov 16, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Bill.  I'm having trouble getting it out, too.  Like you I thought it was all glassed in.  I gave it a good heave-ho and can raise the outboard end a little, but the inboard end won't budge...even a smidge.  I've tried getting a screwdriver between the wooden panel and the lip of the bilge storage area under the dining table to get a little purchase, but still no-go.  There doesn't appear to be anything holding it down from underneath, but the wooden panel in the walkway still seems to be fastened down somehow.  Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks,

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Brunswick GA USA

 

From: Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>

To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2013 5:02 AM

Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 

Ann-Sofie,

I thought the same thing when I was doing it...it looked like it was "glassed" to the hull. It is a very tight fit...when I finally had all of the 10 screws removed, it came up, but it was hard, almost like it was stuck...and it was hard to get back in place because it was so tight.

I hope that I did not leave anything out. I count 10 screws that must be removed...did you remove 10 screws and are you sure that they were the correct 10 screws according to the photo?

Bill

On Sat, Nov 16, 2013 at 9:54 AM, Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

But it is not shure that you sucseed in your mission, even with Bill's eminent description. On our SM no 232, someone has very thouroghly put plastic over everything so we can't lift the aft fridge/freeze unless we demolate the whole interior in that part.....  Grrrrrrrrrr

/Ann-Sofie

S/Y Lady Annila SM #232

In Canary Islands, just 1 month from the crossing....

Skickat från min iPad

16 nov 2013 kl. 05:10 skrev "Sailorman" <kimberlite@...>:

 

Bill,

Would you please send the info for me also?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Bill & Judy Rouse
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2013 12:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 

 

Kent,

 

I wrote the instructions and I have a heck of a time finding anything in the photo section.

 

I sent you a private email with the instructions attached.

 

Bill

BeBe

 

On Sat, Nov 16, 2013 at 3:08 AM, <karkauai@...> wrote:

 

Follow up on my moldy water tank problem:

After wrestling with my tanks for a whole weekend last month, and little success, I left the boat for a month with 2 gallons of bleach in a full tank.  Just got back today and Eureka!....the mold is gone.  I've pressure sprayed and flushed the center and aft tanks and completely drained them and don't see any evidence of mold now.  I'm getting ready to tackle the forward tank, but can't find the instructions on removing the fridge/freezer that someone (Gary?) wrote a while back.

There are a row of bolts along the aft edge of the unit that go thru the stationary panel by the washer/dryer and two more that look like they should go thru the back of the first cabinet, but there are no bolts showing through.  There is another row of screws along the top edge of the seat.  I can't tell how the compressor is attached to the cooler box except that the tubing goes thru a sealed hole in the port side of the box.  Does the whole unit come out as one piece?  What else am I missing?

Thanks and happy holidays to all.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Brunswick GA USA

 

 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, gang.

I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know if the previous owner ever did it.  I've accessed the center tank (under the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).  There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off.  Is there any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better and be safe?  Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.

 

I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions) and can't seem to get them.  Also still can't reply to an existing thread (nothing happens when I click on "reply")

 

Thanks for any suggestions.

Kent

SM243 Kristy

Brunswick, GA, USA

 

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter.SPAMfighter has removed 2240 of my spam emails to date.Do you have a slow PC? Try a free scan!

 

But it is not shure that you sucseed in your mission, even with Bill's eminent description. On our SM no 232, someone has very thouroghly put plastic over everything so we can't lift the aft fridge/freeze unless we demolate the whole interior in that part.....  Grrrrrrrrrr

/Ann-Sofie

S/Y Lady Annila SM #232

In Canary Islands, just 1 month from the crossing....

Skickat från min iPad

16 nov 2013 kl. 05:10 skrev "Sailorman" <kimberlite@...>:

 

Bill,

Would you please send the info for me also?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

 

 

---

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Bill & Judy Rouse
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2013 12:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 

 

Kent,

 

I wrote the instructions and I have a heck of a time finding anything in the photo section.

 

I sent you a private email with the instructions attached.

 

Bill

BeBe

 

On Sat, Nov 16, 2013 at 3:08 AM, <karkauai@...> wrote:

 

Follow up on my moldy water tank problem:

After wrestling with my tanks for a whole weekend last month, and little success, I left the boat for a month with 2 gallons of bleach in a full tank.  Just got back today and Eureka!....the mold is gone.  I've pressure sprayed and flushed the center and aft tanks and completely drained them and don't see any evidence of mold now.  I'm getting ready to tackle the forward tank, but can't find the instructions on removing the fridge/freezer that someone (Gary?) wrote a while back.

There are a row of bolts along the aft edge of the unit that go thru the stationary panel by the washer/dryer and two more that look like they should go thru the back of the first cabinet, but there are no bolts showing through.  There is another row of screws along the top edge of the seat.  I can't tell how the compressor is attached to the cooler box except that the tubing goes thru a sealed hole in the port side of the box.  Does the whole unit come out as one piece?  What else am I missing?

Thanks and happy holidays to all.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Brunswick GA USA

 

 

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote:

Hi again, gang.

I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know if the previous owner ever did it.  I've accessed the center tank (under the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).  There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off.  Is there any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better and be safe?  Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.

 

I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions) and can't seem to get them.  Also still can't reply to an existing thread (nothing happens when I click on "reply")

 

Thanks for any suggestions.

Kent

SM243 Kristy

Brunswick, GA, USA

 

---

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter.
SPAMfighter has removed 2240 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? Try a free scan!

 

Bill,

Would you please send the info for me also?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

 

 

---

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Bill & Judy Rouse
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2013 12:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Cleaning the fresh water tanks

 

 

Kent,

 

I wrote the instructions and I have a heck of a time finding anything in the photo section.

 

I sent you a private email with the instructions attached.

 

Bill

BeBe

 

On Sat, Nov 16, 2013 at 3:08 AM, <karkauai@...> wrote:

 

Follow up on my moldy water tank problem:

After wrestling with my tanks for a whole weekend last month, and little success, I left the boat for a month with 2 gallons of bleach in a full tank.  Just got back today and Eureka!....the mold is gone.  I've pressure sprayed and flushed the center and aft tanks and completely drained them and don't see any evidence of mold now.  I'm getting ready to tackle the forward tank, but can't find the instructions on removing the fridge/freezer that someone (Gary?) wrote a while back.

There are a row of bolts along the aft edge of the unit that go thru the stationary panel by the washer/dryer and two more that look like they should go thru the back of the first cabinet, but there are no bolts showing through.  There is another row of screws along the top edge of the seat.  I can't tell how the compressor is attached to the cooler box except that the tubing goes thru a sealed hole in the port side of the box.  Does the whole unit come out as one piece?  What else am I missing?

Thanks and happy holidays to all.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Brunswick GA USA

 

 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, gang.

I'm cleaning my fresh water tanks for the first time, don't know if the previous owner ever did it.  I've accessed the center tank (under the galley sole) and the aft tank (under the galley fridge).  There are a fair amount of mildew/mold spots that are tightly adhered to the inside of the tank, and after filling the tank with a fairly potent bleach mixture I'm still finding it impossible to get it cleaned off.  Is there any kind of chemical that can be used other than bleach that would work better and be safe?  Given the difficult access and impossibility of getting good pressure with a stiff brush, I'm running out of ideas.

 

I tried to access old files and photos (used Bill's suggestions) and can't seem to get them.  Also still can't reply to an existing thread (nothing happens when I click on "reply")

 

Thanks for any suggestions.

Kent

SM243 Kristy

Brunswick, GA, USA

 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote:

H Jonas:

Regarding the timer flush system that I hooked up: I purchased one of these

http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-96/DT-dsh-05-fdsh--24-Volt-AC/Detail

I hope that link will post. If not, just google "24 volt fish feeder timer" or something like that and you will come across some 24 volt 7 day timers. The one mentioned above was about $35.00 US. This one was rated at 16 amps and had an internal battery backup. Since I wasn't exactly sure of the current draw of the fresh water pump on my boat I hooked the output of the timer to a 28 volt relay that was rated at a much higher amperage. I don't have the specification of the relay, but it was about $15.00 US at the local chandlery and its contacts were rated at 50 amps or something like that. So the timer controls the relay, that regulates power to the fresh water pump. At any rate, in the area behind the 24 volt breaker panel is a terminal block with a cover for 24 volt power. I wired the timer to this source, I then cut the wire from the breaker for the fresh water pump and wired it through the contacts of the relay. The control coil of the relay is controlled by 24 volt power from the control contacts of the timer (ganged relays). (I will try and post a schematic of this wiring in the Dessalator photos folder). The timer has a switch for "On" or "Timer" mode. When aboard the boat, we place that switch in the ON position and the fresh water pump operates as normal with the pressure switch on the pump functioning as usual. When we leave the boat, we make sure the water tank is full, switch the flush valve on the water maker low pressure pump to the flush position, and set the timer to the TIMER mode. We program the timer to flush for 5 minutes every other or every third day. 5 minutes of flush every third day will use about 500 to 700 liters of fresh water in 6 months. Your results may vary and you should actually time and measure how much flush water will pass through your system by collecting and measuring how much water comes out the thru hull fitting on the port side of the hull. At the programmed time, the timer contacts close sending 24 volts to the relay coil. This causes the relay coil to actuate and the relay contacts close, sending 24 volt power to the fresh water pump, The pump actuates for 5 minutes, sending fresh water thru the water maker system (flushes the low pressure pump, the series of filters, the high pressure pump, the membranes and the plumbing of the control panel). It has worked for 5 years without fail. I have a small portable solar panel that I leave out when off the boat to trickle charge the batteries and this has always kept up with the energy needs of the brief run cycles of the pump.

My only concern was having to leave the main 24 volt power switches on the battery bank in the on position when I leave the boat. I do make sure that every other breaker on the boat is turned off, including (1) the breakers in the engine room, (2) forward cabin, (3) beneath the nav station, (4) in the hanging locker by the nav station, and (5) above the overhead of the quarter berth, (6) all the 24 volt panel breakers except the bilge pump and fresh water pump. A potential failure mode would be if the timer or ganged-relay failed in the "on" position. In that case the pump would actuate until the water tanks were empty and them might continue to run until pump failure or battery depletion. I have toyed with installing some sort of "run-on" sensor that would time out the system and turn it off if the pump ran too long. I just haven't gotten around to that yet.

To flush with the water maker on or off is an interesting discussion. I have always flushed with the water maker off except when I am flushing the entire sea-chest/manifold system when leaving the boat. In that case I put the hose from shore water source in to the sea-chest and turn the water maker on. I have yet to find a source of water strong enough to keep up with the water maker's need for water. I have to cycle the water maker on and off to prevent it from sucking air from the sea chest. I can see why flushing with the system running would give more through-put of flush water and thus do a more thorough flush, but having the high pressure pump cavitate with air is supposedly damaging to that pump. Perhaps you can keep up with the feed water needs of the lower capacity water maker using shore water to flush but I cannot.

Nice chatting with you Jonas. I will post an alert when I post the schematic of the timer modification in the photo's section.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM #335
s/v Liahona
Sint Maartin Dutch West Indies

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:
>
>
> Gary,
> thank you for a fact oriented and short answer. I totally share your opinion regarding how to deal with the WM and was not aware of the Sodium meta-bisulfite. Have not used it and will probably not do it either. I am really interested in your automatic rinsing solution, could you please send some additional info regarding this, it will be most appreciated.
> I think I have solved the major question regarding the rinsing, in the Amel manual for this boat it says that the Dessalator unit should be tunred off but in the official info from Dessalator it says that it should be on but without pressure(the D50 has no automatic rinsing function). Doing the rinsing with the unit on gave a much better quality of the produced water than having it off. We now produce water with approx. 250 PTS level(using a Com 100) which I think is ok.
>
> Once again, thank you for a fast and very good answer!
>
> All the best from a cloudy but warm island of Brac, Croatia
>
> Jonas (Svanberg)
> S/Y Lady Annila
> SM # 232
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

On Nov 15, 2013, at 5:22, <crwggb@...> wrote:

 

I have Trojan Lead acid batteries on my SM SULA. the first set I owned lasted 7 years which by all account is pretty good. The boat was kept predominantly in Northern Europe and was was plugged into shore power throughout the winter whilst ashore.

Sula is now based in HK and got a new set of batteries (Trojans again) when she arrived. She is now in commission 12 months of the year being used regularly and rarely gets plugged into shore power. It is obviously very hot in HK for most of the year. the batteries have crashed after only 2 1/2 years. I was somewhat disappointed with this short life until I read the SM owners manual posted here recently, which stated that 1 1/2 years would be the life expectancy!

 

I was wondering what other folks experience has been with their batteries. Sula's have always been meticulously maintained, topped up and left fully charged when leaving the boat after use.

Graham Boyd

SM140 Sula

Hong Kong

 

 Just one additional note.  I completely agree will Bill's description and will add the following.  On my Amel SM 2000  SN 335, 160 l/hr Dessalator water maker, the high pressure valve on the control board will occasionally seep a little salt water.  Left unattended, this seep, yields salt crystals below the knob.  This valve has a small packing or "gland" that surrounds the valve shaft along with a "packing nut" to adjust the pressure of the packing around the valve shaft.  This can be adjusted (assuming your system is the same) by removing the valve knob (unscrew the knob retaining screw and simply pull the knob off the shaft), then clean all the salt up by irrigating the area using fresh water.  Next SLIGHTLY, VERY SLIGHTLY, torque the packing nut.  It will require, in my experience less than 15 degrees of rotation.  Replace everything and operate the system.  If the seep continues, repeat the process incrementally until the seep ceases.  This doesn't mitigate the possibility that you need a new valve, but it is cheap and easy and should be the first step. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver

Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335

s/v Liahon

On the hard in Antigua

---In amelyachtowners@..., <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

Thanks Bill and Ian!

Will follow your advice

/Ann-Sofie

Skickat från min iPad

15 nov 2013 kl. 08:50 skrev "Ian & Judy Jenkins" <ianjudyjenkins@...>:

 

Hi Ann- Sophie,
                             We have had both problems on Pen Azen. A new tap can be bought from the Desalator agent in the UK --I will send on his details. We use this tap to check on the quality of water and after a while the washer on the tap perishes and it drips. We haven't found a way to replace the washer.
  The drip from the pressure knob is indeed salt and it will corrode the knob. If you detach the knob ( undo the small nut in its centre and it pulls off ) you will find a nut behind it. If you gently tighten that nut it presses on a rubber washer that acts as a seal and the seal will work once more.
   Are you about to cross the pond ?
  Fair winds,
Ian and Judy,  Pen Azen, SM 302, Ragusa, Sicily

---

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yahoogroups@...
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 02:09:48 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Desalinator D50 from 1998

Ann-Sofie

I am fairly certain that the salt under the knob is from a slight leak from the pressure regulator, when the system is off...from the looks of accumulation of salt, I believe it is leaking one drop at a time. I do not think it is leaking when you are making water. The fact that you have a small leak here is not important, but you should look at this valve from the back side to see if the valve is OK. On my 160l in #387 you can see the watermaker control unit from the back by removing a piece of plywood in the cockpit lazarette, then the back cover of the Dessalator control unit. It might be easier to remove yours from the front...I am not sure. 

If the pressure regulator (the valve that the pressure control knob is on) is leaking on the back side while making water, you need to replace it soon. If not, the small leak that you have on the front, under the knob, is not significant and could probably continue without a problem for years.

I hope this helps you.

Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Currently Fethiye, Turkey

On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 2:11 PM, <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

I had to put the photos on our blog
http://sailinglife.se/2013/11/14/desalinator-d501998-watermaker/
 
Don't answer on the blog, place your answer here on the forum instead. More easy to follow then.
 
/Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila SM #232
still at the Canary Islands..... 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

Sorry I was to fast to click on "send"......
 
I am Ann-Sofie on Lady Annila SM232
 
But I have to solv the photo thing because I can't up load to the album. I will come back with an address where you can watch the  pictures.
 
/Ann-Sofie
S/Y LadyAnnila
SM 232
present at the Canary Islands

---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

OK, I thought that kanalmamman looked familiar...I checked my email for kanalmamman"at"hotmail.com and found that it belongs to 

Jonas Svanberg and Ann-Sofie S/Y Lady Annila an Amel Super Maramu,#232 and the last I heard, they were in Spain.

Jonas, if you are still in Spain, there are 5 distributors of Dessalator in Spain. Go to http://www.dessalator.com/ and click on Agents for a list.

Hope this helps,

Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 12:43 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

First, I do not know who you are. 

Second, I do not know your boat model or hull number, nor do I know your current location. 

Third, I paged through all of the photo albums and could not find an album named Desalinator D50 1998. I did look at the album we set up for Dessalator and found no photo there. If you could copy and paste a hyperlink in your message, it will save those trying to help you some time.

We all try to help each other, but we all need to help the helpers by trying to give accurate and complete information.

Now that I have all of that off of my chest, let me see if I can help you.

1. Dessalator has a fairly good website in 5 languages at http://www.dessalator.com/. If you have not already checked their website, you should do so.
2. You can ask Dessalator any question directly by clicking on the contact tab on their website, or you might try this link to that page: http://www.dessalator.fr/en/contact/?PHPSESSID=but1skluq01a7aautbg541f2j7
3. I think you may be referring to salt under the pressure regulator knob. If so, the pressure regulator is probably leaking...this may be a problem, or not...

How the water maker works and the role of the pressure regulator:

The Reverse Osmosis salt water membrane looks like a very thick pipe; as water passes through from the outside of the membrane to the hollow inside, it loses most of the disolved solids (salt).

The pressure regulator causes the increase in pressure in the water at the outside of the membrane by closing off some of the outlet of salt water. The more you close off the outlet, the higher the pressure gets going to the outside of the membrane. Water passes through the membrane from the outside to the inside shedding about 99% of the dissolved solids...these dissolved solids wash off of the outside of the membrane inside pressure tube with other water and it all passes through that pressure regulator. 

Simply stated, the pressure regulator is much like a water tap. When it is wide open, water flows through unobstructed and no significant pressure builds up in the membrane pressure tube. When you start closing the pressure regulator, the flow of the water is restricted and pressure builds on the outside of the membrane forcing water through the membrane (Reverse Osmosis). 

Always turn the pressure regulator completely anti-clockwise when you finish making water, and always  increase and decrease the pressure slowly.

I am not familiar with the D50, but I have seen a Dessalator pressure regulator assembly made out of dissimilar metals which eventually corroded enough to leak on the pressure side. If you have pickled your watermaker each year since 1998, the pickling solution is caustic enough to have deteriorated that pressure regulator valve enough to create a leak.

I would remove the panel from the front or look at the panel from the rear...(again, I do not know what boat you have, but suspect it is a Super Maramu). With the system running and making water, look for leaks.

You can buy parts from Dessalator and repair it yourself, or you can use their website to locate one of their reps.

BTW, I have had a very slight leak at the pressure regulator for 3 or 4 years. When it dries, only the salt is evident.

Hope this helps you and that you will be making water soon.

Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Currently Fethiye, Turkey

On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 11:50 AM, <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

Look at the pictures in the Album Desalinator D50 1998.
 
What can that pile of salt-looking thing be that appears under the nob that we use for managing the preassure on the watermaker.

(The pipe you can see to the left, or almost see, is our not-permanent solution for the tap where we test the water quality. It works, it is not nice but better than a tap dripping while we try to get a new one. )

 

Hi Ann- Sophie,
                             We have had both problems on Pen Azen. A new tap can be bought from the Desalator agent in the UK --I will send on his details. We use this tap to check on the quality of water and after a while the washer on the tap perishes and it drips. We haven't found a way to replace the washer.
  The drip from the pressure knob is indeed salt and it will corrode the knob. If you detach the knob ( undo the small nut in its centre and it pulls off ) you will find a nut behind it. If you gently tighten that nut it presses on a rubber washer that acts as a seal and the seal will work once more.
   Are you about to cross the pond ?
  Fair winds,
Ian and Judy,  Pen Azen, SM 302, Ragusa, Sicily

---

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yahoogroups@...
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 02:09:48 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] RE: Desalinator D50 from 1998

Ann-Sofie

I am fairly certain that the salt under the knob is from a slight leak from the pressure regulator, when the system is off...from the looks of accumulation of salt, I believe it is leaking one drop at a time. I do not think it is leaking when you are making water. The fact that you have a small leak here is not important, but you should look at this valve from the back side to see if the valve is OK. On my 160l in #387 you can see the watermaker control unit from the back by removing a piece of plywood in the cockpit lazarette, then the back cover of the Dessalator control unit. It might be easier to remove yours from the front...I am not sure. 

If the pressure regulator (the valve that the pressure control knob is on) is leaking on the back side while making water, you need to replace it soon. If not, the small leak that you have on the front, under the knob, is not significant and could probably continue without a problem for years.

I hope this helps you.

Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Currently Fethiye, Turkey

On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 2:11 PM, <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

I had to put the photos on our blog
http://sailinglife.se/2013/11/14/desalinator-d501998-watermaker/
 
Don't answer on the blog, place your answer here on the forum instead. More easy to follow then.
 
/Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila SM #232
still at the Canary Islands..... 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

Sorry I was to fast to click on "send"......
 
I am Ann-Sofie on Lady Annila SM232
 
But I have to solv the photo thing because I can't up load to the album. I will come back with an address where you can watch the  pictures.
 
/Ann-Sofie
S/Y LadyAnnila
SM 232
present at the Canary Islands

---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

OK, I thought that kanalmamman looked familiar...I checked my email for kanalmamman"at"hotmail.com and found that it belongs to 

Jonas Svanberg and Ann-Sofie S/Y Lady Annila an Amel Super Maramu,#232 and the last I heard, they were in Spain.

Jonas, if you are still in Spain, there are 5 distributors of Dessalator in Spain. Go to http://www.dessalator.com/ and click on Agents for a list.

Hope this helps,

Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 12:43 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

First, I do not know who you are. 

Second, I do not know your boat model or hull number, nor do I know your current location. 

Third, I paged through all of the photo albums and could not find an album named Desalinator D50 1998. I did look at the album we set up for Dessalator and found no photo there. If you could copy and paste a hyperlink in your message, it will save those trying to help you some time.

We all try to help each other, but we all need to help the helpers by trying to give accurate and complete information.

Now that I have all of that off of my chest, let me see if I can help you.

1. Dessalator has a fairly good website in 5 languages at http://www.dessalator.com/. If you have not already checked their website, you should do so.
2. You can ask Dessalator any question directly by clicking on the contact tab on their website, or you might try this link to that page: http://www.dessalator.fr/en/contact/?PHPSESSID=but1skluq01a7aautbg541f2j7
3. I think you may be referring to salt under the pressure regulator knob. If so, the pressure regulator is probably leaking...this may be a problem, or not...

How the water maker works and the role of the pressure regulator:

The Reverse Osmosis salt water membrane looks like a very thick pipe; as water passes through from the outside of the membrane to the hollow inside, it loses most of the disolved solids (salt).

The pressure regulator causes the increase in pressure in the water at the outside of the membrane by closing off some of the outlet of salt water. The more you close off the outlet, the higher the pressure gets going to the outside of the membrane. Water passes through the membrane from the outside to the inside shedding about 99% of the dissolved solids...these dissolved solids wash off of the outside of the membrane inside pressure tube with other water and it all passes through that pressure regulator. 

Simply stated, the pressure regulator is much like a water tap. When it is wide open, water flows through unobstructed and no significant pressure builds up in the membrane pressure tube. When you start closing the pressure regulator, the flow of the water is restricted and pressure builds on the outside of the membrane forcing water through the membrane (Reverse Osmosis). 

Always turn the pressure regulator completely anti-clockwise when you finish making water, and always  increase and decrease the pressure slowly.

I am not familiar with the D50, but I have seen a Dessalator pressure regulator assembly made out of dissimilar metals which eventually corroded enough to leak on the pressure side. If you have pickled your watermaker each year since 1998, the pickling solution is caustic enough to have deteriorated that pressure regulator valve enough to create a leak.

I would remove the panel from the front or look at the panel from the rear...(again, I do not know what boat you have, but suspect it is a Super Maramu). With the system running and making water, look for leaks.

You can buy parts from Dessalator and repair it yourself, or you can use their website to locate one of their reps.

BTW, I have had a very slight leak at the pressure regulator for 3 or 4 years. When it dries, only the salt is evident.

Hope this helps you and that you will be making water soon.

Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Currently Fethiye, Turkey

On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 11:50 AM, <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

 

Look at the pictures in the Album Desalinator D50 1998.
 
What can that pile of salt-looking thing be that appears under the nob that we use for managing the preassure on the watermaker.

(The pipe you can see to the left, or almost see, is our not-permanent solution for the tap where we test the water quality. It works, it is not nice but better than a tap dripping while we try to get a new one. )

 

I have Trojan Lead acid batteries on my SM SULA. the first set I owned lasted 7 years which by all account is pretty good. The boat was kept predominantly in Northern Europe and was was plugged into shore power throughout the winter whilst ashore.

Sula is now based in HK and got a new set of batteries (Trojans again) when she arrived. She is now in commission 12 months of the year being used regularly and rarely gets plugged into shore power. It is obviously very hot in HK for most of the year. the batteries have crashed after only 2 1/2 years. I was somewhat disappointed with this short life until I read the SM owners manual posted here recently, which stated that 1 1/2 years would be the life expectancy!

 

I was wondering what other folks experience has been with their batteries. Sula's have always been meticulously maintained, topped up and left fully charged when leaving the boat after use.

Graham Boyd

SM140 Sula

Hong Kong

 

I have Trojan Lead acid batteries on my SM SULA. the first set I owned lasted 7 years which by all account is pretty good. The boat was kept predominantly in Northern Europe and was was plugged into shore power throughout the winter whilst ashore.

Sula is now based in HK and got a new set of batteries (Trojans again) when she arrived. She is now in commission 12 months of the year being used regularly and rarely gets plugged into shore power. It is obviously very hot in HK for most of the year. the batteries have crashed after only 2 1/2 years. I was somewhat disappointed with this short life until I read the SM owners manual posted here recently, which stated that 1 1/2 years would be the life expectancy!

 

I was wondering what other folks experience has been with their batteries. Sula's have always been meticulously maintained, topped up and left fully charged when leaving the boat after use.

Graham Boyd

SM140 Sula

Hong Kong