Joerg,

My experience is with an older Maramu. I am very fond of it and like the simlicity for my location where Amels are unusual. I like my boat's standard transmission, fully battened mainsail and sail handling gear (recent Harken). I still admire the Santorin and Super Maramu though. The Sharki is also very nice if you want even cheaper marina fees... Which model you prefer is more a question of your own tastes and requirements.

Try to buy an original as possible Amel .... You say 2-3 years in your private shipyard.... best not to customise it, especially until you are very sure, say after owning the boat for at least a year.

I think generally the ketch Santorin is more popular than the sloop and sells for a bit more but condition would be a more important factor for me.

Compared to another older boat I think there are lot fewer problems. For example, they have a reputation for lack of osmosis, keels and keel bolts are normally no issue. Water leaks are less of a problem than boats with deck mounted chainplates.

The interior woodwork is very good quality mahogany and I think problems with veneer and water damage are unusual. Hull to deck joint is very good. Internal rot caused by water is not a problem but always wise to check areas like the floor of the foredeck lockers and the mast compression areas. The rudders are very strong. I've never heard of any problem with chainplates. The balsa cored deck is properly made - even on my 32 year old boat (visible from the underside of the handrail mounts) the balsa core in the deck is the correct end grain balsa in small blocks so that even if water gets in somewhere it is unlikely to spread.

So to answer your question, I don't think there are "typical problems" to watch out for. The problems are more general ones to older boats: cosmetic issues, crazed perspex, outdated electronics, old engine, possible previous damage from grounding or collision etc. The vinyl you already know about...I don't have the later Amel furling motors, bowthruster or keel transmission but I think spares are easily available and you just need to observe the preventative maintenance.

This site is also of course a great resource for overcoming any obstacles when you own one, escpecially about these Amel specific items. There are some very knowledgable people, some who seem to have been on this site since it started; I hope they don't plan on giving up their sailing soon!

Maybe though you should buy a boat that is not so good so you can get more use of your boatbuilding skills ;)

Good luck
John Maramu #91 Popeye


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Joerg Steffen <joerg.steffen@> wrote:

Hi amelowners


after owning and sailing different boats in the past 30 years i plan do buy a amel as soon as possible.
Because my wife and i don`t plan to cross the pacific a model of 46 ft  will be enough for us.

In the past in build 2 yachts (v.d Stadt 40 and Reinke 43) with my own hands so I have the skills, the place  and the maschines for a major refit.

I look for a boot with a price of 100 - 150 K€, will put it in my private shipyard for 2-3 years and start cruising in the Med  and the atlantik.

Do you know an such an Amel for sale ?

Which type of amel would you recommend ?

Where are typicall problems of old amels (not only the vinyl linning  )

Experiences concerning spare parts, especially for the amel specific parts like "Saildrive", electr. winches etc. ?

Actually I think on a santorin, do you thinks this would be a good choice ?

Many thanks, best regards
Joerg Steffen
Just now onboard  a low quality  2007er  Bavaria 37

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

**


Dear Amel Web-master. My amel 53 #349 if now owned by a gentleman in NYC
are
and on OysterBay. It left Wilmington, N.C. last week and made a 3 ½ day
passage dock-dock in ideal weather. Please take me off
amelyachtowners@.... Hanks. Murray Seidel, M.D.

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 7:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Amel Sharki manuals/User manuals/Perkins Partbook.PDF
Uploaded by : shivajogi <shivajogi@... <mailto:shivajogi%40yahoo.de>

Description : Perkins 4108 part book

You can access this file at the URL:

User%20manuals/Perkins%20Partbook.PDF

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.html
Regards,

shivajogi <shivajogi@... <mailto:shivajogi%40yahoo.de> >

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6387 - Release Date: 06/05/13

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Our Thomson Australe washer is acting up. It will run thru the agitate cycle and half of the rinse cycle, it will then stop and flash between the rinse and stop lights. I have cleaned out the lint filter and also opened up the pump cover and shop vac'd out the pump area. I can see no blockages on the drain side and I think I can hear the pump running on the drain cycle. If I switch the machine straight to the spin cycle I can hear the pump run but again the drum will not start on the spin cycle and the spin light and stop light will both flash.

Does anybody have a copy of the Thompson Australe shop service manual? I am sure this is a minor problem that could easily be diagnosed with a good manual.

thx
John Abercrombie SM #391

**


Dear Amel Web-master. My amel 53 #349 if now owned by a gentleman in NYC
are
and on OysterBay. It left Wilmington, N.C. last week and made a 3 ½ day
passage dock-dock in ideal weather. Please take me off
amelyachtowners@.... Hanks. Murray Seidel, M.D.

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 7:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Amel Sharki manuals/User manuals/Perkins Partbook.PDF
Uploaded by : shivajogi <shivajogi@... <mailto:shivajogi%40yahoo.de>

Description : Perkins 4108 part book

You can access this file at the URL:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Amel%20Sharki%20manuals/
User%20manuals/Perkins%20Partbook.PDF

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.html
Regards,

shivajogi <shivajogi@... <mailto:shivajogi%40yahoo.de> >

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6387 - Release Date: 06/05/13

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
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SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

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Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Eric,
There is an internal regulator..there has to be othere wise you wouldn't get a constant voltage.
This is how internally regulated alternators work...they run at (in our case) 28 odd volts all the time...the current falls off as the batts get charged....problem with that is that over a long running time (like we motored 54 hours from Noumea to Port Vila last week) it stays at 28 odd volts and this will lead to the batteries gassing..i.e. boiling off electrolyte...too much of this will eventually kill VRLA batteries (like AGM or sealed calcium etc).

What we need is to modify the alternator to remove the internal regulator...which is not so easy on these Leece Neville / Prestolite alternators as they are N-type, (which means the reg is on the negative side) and wire an external 3 stage reg. External regs are nearly ALL P-Type.
I'm having some discussion now with a tech from Leece Neville about how to do this.

There's nothing wrong with the Balmar external regs...but my choice would be Next Step from AmplePower...they make a number of different types, but the scenario for most (including Balmar) is :

1. Reg off when engine starts so no load on the alternator.
2. After 30 secs, reg gently loads up the alternator until its at either full output, or the max the battery bank will accept.
3. This "full" output current continues until the voltage reaches the absorption voltage (preset) say 28.8 Volts for a 24v bank.
4. the reg slowly backs off the field drive to the alternator to maintain the voltage at the absorption level
5. After a preset time or when current has reached a preset percentage (say 5-10%) of the banks Ah capacity, the reg switches to float...approx. 26.6 V

This ensures that the house batteries are properly charged and prevents gassing.

This is the way the Doplhin chargers work also...so, much better to charge the batts with the genset than the engine in it's standard configuration.

When I get all this figured out with this peculiar N-reg Leece Neville alternator, I'll post the details so everyone can do it.

I don't like the idea of the batteries sitting at 28.8V for days...it's not good for them !

Cheers
Alan
SV ELYSE SM437

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hallo Dieter

hier die Anleitung !!!

wo läßt du den Motor überholen ? Meiner hat 5100 h und läuft prima ohne Ölverlust am Kurbelwellenausgang könnte aber ach kommen

LG
Joachim




________________________________
Von: INUS - BUSCH <inusbusch@...>
An: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Gesendet: 12:34 Dienstag, 4.Juni 2013
Betreff: Re: [Amel] Re: Eberspacher heater



 
Hallo Joachim,

an dem trouble shooting manual bin ich auch interessiert. und Danke für deine Telnr, hab sie mir
notiert. Im Moment brauche ich keine Motortipps, weil der Perkins seit gestern draußen ist.
Mfg
Dieter

________________________________
Von: shivajogi <shivajogi@...>
An: amelyachtowners@...
Gesendet: 12:07 Dienstag, 4.Juni 2013
Betreff: [Amel] Re: Eberspacher heater


 
Hy Shea
if have an original fron Ebersbächer trouble shooting manual in german
if you give me your E-Mail Adress i can scan it and send it to you.
it has help me to repair my by my self and now it works fantastik

regads
Joachim

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Gregory Shea" <gmshea@> wrote:

My Sharki has a non-working Eberspacher heater. I am in the west of Provence and have heard various stories including taking it out of the boat and sending it to Germany. Does anyone have any experience in getting that sort of thing done in the western Med. I have the phone number of the agent in Paris but before I took that route, I was wondering if anyone had encountered this problem in this part of the world? The previous owner said it was the fuel pump and it seems to me that if I could get my hands on one I could switch it out, if I could return it if that was not the problem


Greg Shea
Cap des Isles Sharki 133.

Hi amelowners


after owning and sailing different boats in the past 30 years i plan do buy a amel as soon as possible.
Because my wife and i don`t plan to cross the pacific a model of 46 ft  will be enough for us.

In the past in build 2 yachts (v.d Stadt 40 and Reinke 43) with my own hands so I have the skills, the place  and the maschines for a major refit.

I look for a boot with a price of 100 - 150 K€, will put it in my private shipyard for 2-3 years and start cruising in the Med  and the atlantik.

Do you know an such an Amel for sale ?

Which type of amel would you recommend ?

Where are typicall problems of old amels (not only the vinyl linning  )

Experiences concerning spare parts, especially for the amel specific parts like "Saildrive", electr. winches etc. ?

Actually I think on a santorin, do you thinks this would be a good choice ?

Many thanks, best regards
Joerg Steffen
Just now onboard  a low quality  2007er  Bavaria 37

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]