Date   

Re: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,

I drilled and tapped holes on opposite sides of the gearbox. One is high the
other low.

I pump grease into the box in the lower hole and when it comes out clean
from the upper hole I stop.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Mike Ondra
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012





Eric et al,

I am in the process of servicing/regreasing our outhaul gear box after 3
years since the last service (by taking it apart) and, to my relief, I found
the gears and grease in good condition and a tiny bit of water inside. With
the furler and outhaul gear boxes as tightly sealed as they are to keep out
water, do you think there will be enough air/grease relief to allow the
introduction of new grease through the grease port? Any chance of damaging a
seal from the pressure of pumping in grease if there is no pressure relief?

Mike

SM#240 Aletes

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Sailormon
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 12:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

Gary,

I have never taken it apart. iT works fine. I am just going to add a couple
of grease ports to it.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

HI Eric:

In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this
posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post
it?

Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having
spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler
seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive
maintenance".

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Hi,
The furler is rather simple.
The extension of the foil has a gear attached to it part number 8 in the
scan. That gear is attached to a worm gear that rotates the gear. Being
that
the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of the
power
supplied.

This is from amel years ago
"To be able to take the jib furler apart, you need to loosen the 2 mizzen
backstays, the main mast backstay, the 2 main mast main shrouds, and last
the forestay.

Once the forestay turnbuckle is completely detached, the jib furler can be
removed from the forestay. Of course you will have to split the furler
from
its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.

The notched wheel (258.00 Euros ex Vat), the worm screw (361.00 Euros ex
Vat), the set of 5 bearings (258.00 Euros) and the set of 3 seals (81.00
Euros) are available.

We usually replace the bearings and the seals as well as the notched wheel
but we almost never replace the worm screw which is a stronger part."

Attached are photos of the most commonly replaced parts.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel] Re: New motor

karkauai
 

I didn't know anyone else had a C Drive failure...thought I was the only lucky one.

My Cdrive failure occurred when there were <150 hrs on the new 110HP Yanmar. It was barely out of the break-in period and hadn't been pushed hard except for running at 3000rpm for 5 min every few hrs. I don't think I've ever used the full 110 horses except to test the pitch on the MaxProp (maxes out at 3400rpm).
I'd like to know when they beefed up the drive. I have SM 243 (1999). I understood they were putting 100HP Yanmars and 78HP Volvos in them at that time? Does anyone have a late '90s vintage SM (say #230s)with an original 100HP Yanmar?
I'll ask Maud when the change was made and let you know what she says.
Kent
SM243 1999
KRISTY

Sent from my BlackBerry« smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 05:47:58
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model


Re: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

Mike Ondra
 

Eric et al,



I am in the process of servicing/regreasing our outhaul gear box after 3
years since the last service (by taking it apart) and, to my relief, I found
the gears and grease in good condition and a tiny bit of water inside. With
the furler and outhaul gear boxes as tightly sealed as they are to keep out
water, do you think there will be enough air/grease relief to allow the
introduction of new grease through the grease port? Any chance of damaging a
seal from the pressure of pumping in grease if there is no pressure relief?



Mike

SM#240 Aletes



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Sailormon
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 12:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012





Gary,

I have never taken it apart. iT works fine. I am just going to add a couple
of grease ports to it.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

HI Eric:

In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this
posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post
it?

Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having
spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler
seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive
maintenance".

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Hi,
The furler is rather simple.
The extension of the foil has a gear attached to it part number 8 in the
scan. That gear is attached to a worm gear that rotates the gear. Being
that
the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of the
power
supplied.

This is from amel years ago
"To be able to take the jib furler apart, you need to loosen the 2 mizzen
backstays, the main mast backstay, the 2 main mast main shrouds, and last
the forestay.

Once the forestay turnbuckle is completely detached, the jib furler can be
removed from the forestay. Of course you will have to split the furler
from
its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.

The notched wheel (258.00 Euros ex Vat), the worm screw (361.00 Euros ex
Vat), the set of 5 bearings (258.00 Euros) and the set of 3 seals (81.00
Euros) are available.

We usually replace the bearings and the seals as well as the notched wheel
but we almost never replace the worm screw which is a stronger part."

Attached are photos of the most commonly replaced parts.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel] Re: New motor

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi all, have to agree Bill that this could be a factor. Recently I saw a "red line" SM out of the water. I understand these were among the last SMs built. The auto prop on it was much larger than mine so I would assume that it has the 110 hp engine with a drive train and propellor to match.  
Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 5:47 PM
Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor


 

I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Auto pilot - Santorin

belitbh <belitbh@...>
 

Hello, it looks like our auto pilot is now 'tired' after 20 years in service, in 20kts winds and 1 mtr waves it works 100%, but in flat sea and 0 wind it can't keep course for a minute (the alarm will only start about 2mins after loosing course when the boat is already 90-180deg off course), sometimes when sitting on the helm and observing the loosing of course at early stage, assisting by slight manual pressure on the helm will take it back to action.
a. have anyone experienced the same?
b. assume we will have to replace the unit (as some told us already) - what new ray marine unit will be most suitable for Santorin?

Best regads


Re: New motor

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.

Bill
BeBe SM2k #387
Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model


Maramu #29 water tank chronicles....

Dave_Benjamin
 

As I mentioned previously, there was no inspection port in what I thought was our forward most section of the water tank, so we installed one. Then I realized that the tank continued underneath the forward settee. Since the goal was to make the tank easy to clean with a pressure washer, we added another port there, but we went with a 4 inch (100mm) since it's a small space. I was surprised with how small that section of tank is.

Tomorrow we're doing a bit of gel-coating on the partitions where the factory finish was in need of attention.

I plan to give the tanks a thorough cleaning on Friday, reinstall the table and maybe get the boat out for a sail this weekend.


Re: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Gary,

I have never taken it apart. iT works fine. I am just going to add a couple
of grease ports to it.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012







HI Eric:

In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this
posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post
it?

Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having
spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler
seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive
maintenance".

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Hi,
The furler is rather simple.
The extension of the foil has a gear attached to it part number 8 in the
scan. That gear is attached to a worm gear that rotates the gear. Being
that
the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of the
power
supplied.

This is from amel years ago
"To be able to take the jib furler apart, you need to loosen the 2 mizzen
backstays, the main mast backstay, the 2 main mast main shrouds, and last
the forestay.

Once the forestay turnbuckle is completely detached, the jib furler can be
removed from the forestay. Of course you will have to split the furler
from
its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.

The notched wheel (258.00 Euros ex Vat), the worm screw (361.00 Euros ex
Vat), the set of 5 bearings (258.00 Euros) and the set of 3 seals (81.00
Euros) are available.

We usually replace the bearings and the seals as well as the notched wheel
but we almost never replace the worm screw which is a stronger part."

Attached are photos of the most commonly replaced parts.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo getting hot

Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Ps the exhaust elbow never got above 160 degrees.



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 11:43 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo getting hot





Hi Eric:

Which side of the turbo are you speaking of? Is it the compressor side (side
with the air intake housing attached) or is it the turbine side (side where
the exhaust gases exit)?

The turbine side of most turbo chargers run at exhaust gas temperatures (up
to 1,600 degrees F normally in aircraft engines, and they glow cherry red,
but I am not sure what temps the exhaust gases reach on diesels). Diesel
engine turbos must not get that hot as no paint would last at all and mine
is still painted and showing no signs of color change with 1,600 hrs of use.
The compressor side should probably never exceed cylinder head temperature
(again in aircraft this is usually below 400 degrees F) but I am guessing,
based on the relatively small size of the turbo on our Yanmars, that you
would never see temps over 200 degrees F. If you have an infrared
thermometer (about $45 US from many sources) you can measure the temps of
each side of the turbo charger as well as the center housing (the area
between the turbine and compressor where the oil hoses join) while in
operation at various RPM. That is very helpful in diagnosing any problems as
well as establishing normal temps for future reference. Additionally, you
can remove the air inlet screen and look into the compressor side. Stick you
finger in there (with the engine cool and not operating of course) and spin
the compressor blades. Make sure they appear normally shaped and uniform
without nicks etc., and especially that this spins without much effort. Make
sure the compressor blades are not rubbing on the housing around their
circumference. Look for uniform color, shape, and structure.

Lastly, notice where the discoloration or paint peeling is occurring. Is it
right next to the center housing as the bearings of this are do get pretty
hot but should never reach exhaust gas temperatures because of the oil
cooling. If the engine is shut down while this area is really hot the oil in
the center housing can coke and slow or prevent the turbo from turning. In
aircraft we generally like to allow the turbo's to cool at idle RPM for 5
minutes to prevent coking. Probably not a bad idea in diesels..

So, verify that the turbo spins ok and also get us a little more information
about where the paint is peeling etc for further diagnostic help.

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 # 335
lying Oyster Pond Marina , Sint Maartin

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

I have the 100 hp 4jh3hte Yanmar on Kimberlite and I noticed that the
paint
on the turbo is starting to pel.

Does this signify a problem?

I hear no noise from the turbo and the engine runs fine up to 3500 rpm.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo getting hot

Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Gary,

After running the turbo at 3400 rpm it got up to 200 degrees F.

I just turned 4000 hours on the engine. I guess it just needs a little
paint.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 11:43 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo getting hot





Hi Eric:

Which side of the turbo are you speaking of? Is it the compressor side (side
with the air intake housing attached) or is it the turbine side (side where
the exhaust gases exit)?

The turbine side of most turbo chargers run at exhaust gas temperatures (up
to 1,600 degrees F normally in aircraft engines, and they glow cherry red,
but I am not sure what temps the exhaust gases reach on diesels). Diesel
engine turbos must not get that hot as no paint would last at all and mine
is still painted and showing no signs of color change with 1,600 hrs of use.
The compressor side should probably never exceed cylinder head temperature
(again in aircraft this is usually below 400 degrees F) but I am guessing,
based on the relatively small size of the turbo on our Yanmars, that you
would never see temps over 200 degrees F. If you have an infrared
thermometer (about $45 US from many sources) you can measure the temps of
each side of the turbo charger as well as the center housing (the area
between the turbine and compressor where the oil hoses join) while in
operation at various RPM. That is very helpful in diagnosing any problems as
well as establishing normal temps for future reference. Additionally, you
can remove the air inlet screen and look into the compressor side. Stick you
finger in there (with the engine cool and not operating of course) and spin
the compressor blades. Make sure they appear normally shaped and uniform
without nicks etc., and especially that this spins without much effort. Make
sure the compressor blades are not rubbing on the housing around their
circumference. Look for uniform color, shape, and structure.

Lastly, notice where the discoloration or paint peeling is occurring. Is it
right next to the center housing as the bearings of this are do get pretty
hot but should never reach exhaust gas temperatures because of the oil
cooling. If the engine is shut down while this area is really hot the oil in
the center housing can coke and slow or prevent the turbo from turning. In
aircraft we generally like to allow the turbo's to cool at idle RPM for 5
minutes to prevent coking. Probably not a bad idea in diesels..

So, verify that the turbo spins ok and also get us a little more information
about where the paint is peeling etc for further diagnostic help.

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 # 335
lying Oyster Pond Marina , Sint Maartin

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

I have the 100 hp 4jh3hte Yanmar on Kimberlite and I noticed that the
paint
on the turbo is starting to pel.

Does this signify a problem?

I hear no noise from the turbo and the engine runs fine up to 3500 rpm.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







Re: [Amel] YACHTING WORLD MAY 2012 ISSUE TESTING THE AMEL 55 AND

Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,

I would love to receive it.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 3:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] YACHTING WORLD MAY 2012 ISSUE TESTING THE AMEL 55 AND





If anyone is interested in this article, I have it in an optimized PDF
version, 2.9MB in size. I can email it to you. Please write to me. The
address is: alex.paquin at usa.net
This site won┬┤t allow me to uploaded it to the files section.


Re: [Amel] New motor

Barbara Nairne
 

Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud


After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine.

The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M.



We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer.

Barb
Sueno Azul
Super Maramu No.39
1991 Model


Re: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Gary, Pen Azen is 12 years old and has done 48,000 miles. The jib furler still works ok but is making some noise. When I was in Hyeres recently the Amel guys listened to it and recommended that I get it serviced, though it's not urgent. I will be back in Hyeres in October and will hand it over to them. It is a really powerful piece of kit--I think its a 1200 or 1500 watt motor; the 54 has a 450 watt, non-Amel motor ( different gearing, obviously) which isn't as fast. The SM motor may be an ugly lump compared to the new non-Amel motors, but it has proved pretty bullet proof for us on three Amels going back 23 years. In October I will be able to tell you what the servicing involved. Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Elba

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: no_reply@...
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 14:02:18 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012




HI Eric:

In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post it?

Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive maintenance".

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,
The furler is rather simple.
The extension of the foil has a gear attached to it part number 8 in the
scan. That gear is attached to a worm gear that rotates the gear. Being that
the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of the power
supplied.

This is from amel years ago
"To be able to take the jib furler apart, you need to loosen the 2 mizzen
backstays, the main mast backstay, the 2 main mast main shrouds, and last
the forestay.

Once the forestay turnbuckle is completely detached, the jib furler can be
removed from the forestay. Of course you will have to split the furler from
its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.

The notched wheel (258.00 Euros ex Vat), the worm screw (361.00 Euros ex
Vat), the set of 5 bearings (258.00 Euros) and the set of 3 seals (81.00
Euros) are available.

We usually replace the bearings and the seals as well as the notched wheel
but we almost never replace the worm screw which is a stronger part."

Attached are photos of the most commonly replaced parts.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



For those of you who have files uploaded

Jose_Luis <lji0041@...>
 

Dear mates,

As some of you have already noticed, we are running out of space in the files section.

I kindly request to those who have files uploaded to have a short check and see if the volume can be reduced.

For instance, for big 'doc' files with many photos, it is sometimes useful to save them as 'pdf'.

Thanks and regards
Group Moderator


Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

HI Eric:

In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post it?

Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive maintenance".

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,
The furler is rather simple.
The extension of the foil has a gear attached to it part number 8 in the
scan. That gear is attached to a worm gear that rotates the gear. Being that
the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of the power
supplied.

This is from amel years ago
"To be able to take the jib furler apart, you need to loosen the 2 mizzen
backstays, the main mast backstay, the 2 main mast main shrouds, and last
the forestay.

Once the forestay turnbuckle is completely detached, the jib furler can be
removed from the forestay. Of course you will have to split the furler from
its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.

The notched wheel (258.00 Euros ex Vat), the worm screw (361.00 Euros ex
Vat), the set of 5 bearings (258.00 Euros) and the set of 3 seals (81.00
Euros) are available.

We usually replace the bearings and the seals as well as the notched wheel
but we almost never replace the worm screw which is a stronger part."

Attached are photos of the most commonly replaced parts.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: member

Jose_Luis <lji0041@...>
 

Sorry. I mean it can be Yahoo or gmail, etc, depending on the address.

Group Moderator

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis" <lji0041@...> wrote:

Hi Myra,

Your password is a Yahoo password. You have to recover it using Yahoo resources for it. I do not have access to your yahoo account.

I can send you an invitation to a new address and afterwards I can delete the old one that is registered in our database.

I will try to send this message also directly to your current account.

Regards
Group Moderator

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Myra Reid <myra.saoleile@> wrote:

I am unable to sign into amelyachtowner. I changed my email address and
can't remember my password. We own Amel Super Maramu hull no. 228 1998.
She is called Saol Eile and registered in Ireland. My date of birth is
April 11th 1947. We are presently in Nuku Hive Marquesa islands and
need some advise from the remembers.
My new email address is myra.saoleile@
Can You Hepl
Regards
Myra


Re: member

Jose_Luis <lji0041@...>
 

Hi Myra,

Your password is a Yahoo password. You have to recover it using Yahoo resources for it. I do not have access to your yahoo account.

I can send you an invitation to a new address and afterwards I can delete the old one that is registered in our database.

I will try to send this message also directly to your current account.

Regards
Group Moderator

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Myra Reid <myra.saoleile@...> wrote:

I am unable to sign into amelyachtowner. I changed my email address and
can't remember my password. We own Amel Super Maramu hull no. 228 1998.
She is called Saol Eile and registered in Ireland. My date of birth is
April 11th 1947. We are presently in Nuku Hive Marquesa islands and
need some advise from the remembers.
My new email address is myra.saoleile@...
Can You Hepl
Regards
Myra


Super Maramu Standing Rigging Measurements

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

I thought I had posted this before, but I couldn't find it in the Files or Photo Sections so I have now posted it in the Photo's Section.

It is a copy of the dimensions for the standing rigging for the Amel Super Maramu ( In French with English translation by me) . The diagram was provided to me by Chantiers Amel.

See the Photo's section under Amel SM - Standing Rigging Dimensions (comes up on the second page of my browser).

In answer to a previous question, the forestay cable is 12 mm according to this diagram from Amel.

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335


Jib Furler 11.05.2012

Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,
The furler is rather simple.
The extension of the foil has a gear attached to it part number 8 in the
scan. That gear is attached to a worm gear that rotates the gear. Being that
the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of the power
supplied.

This is from amel years ago
"To be able to take the jib furler apart, you need to loosen the 2 mizzen
backstays, the main mast backstay, the 2 main mast main shrouds, and last
the forestay.

Once the forestay turnbuckle is completely detached, the jib furler can be
removed from the forestay. Of course you will have to split the furler from
its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.

The notched wheel (258.00 Euros ex Vat), the worm screw (361.00 Euros ex
Vat), the set of 5 bearings (258.00 Euros) and the set of 3 seals (81.00
Euros) are available.

We usually replace the bearings and the seals as well as the notched wheel
but we almost never replace the worm screw which is a stronger part."

Attached are photos of the most commonly replaced parts.
Fair Winds
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: EIJJ4@... [mailto:EIJJ4@...]
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 1:24 PM
To: Eric Freedman
Subject: Jib Furler 11.05.2012

Dear Eric,
Your name has been given to my wife Myra Reid, by friends Ian and Judy
Jenkins, as a very knowledgeable person on Amel Super Maramu's.
We have a 1998 SMII , SAOL EILE, hull no 228.
I am hoping that you can give us some advice. We have just arrived in the
Marquise's Islands, at NUKU-HIVA.
On the passage we twice had problems with our jib furler, which during sail
setting completely and suddenly unfurled.

Amel in answer to my request for advice have told me to make adjustments,
have said that they have NO DOCUMENTATION on the mechanism,
but offered to send me (for 30 Euros plus postage) the owners CD. The owners
CD I have already, and it tells me that maintenance is not required, and
does not even give me the manufacturers name for an internet search.

I presume that there is a locking pin or pawl that is withdrawn/unlocked by
the power application during furling or unfurling, but have
no other idea. From looking at the furler, I presume that access to the
locking mechanism is through the bottom plate ?.

I hope that you may be more helpful than Amel, as Ian and Judy have often
spoken of your knowledge, and Myra tells me that you often post help on the
Amel owners net.

Yours, in hope

Paraic O Maoilriada
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[Amel] Re: Rigging replacement

Dave_Benjamin
 

Stainless can suffer galling if it is not properly lubricated with Lanocote or Tefgel. As long as you use one of those or similar, I'm not sure if I'd go to the expense of custom fabrication.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., karkauai@... wrote:

The one I had made was also a bronze alloy.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: sailw32@...
Sender: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 10:18:55
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Rigging replacement

Craig, I believe it is not recommended to make the turnbuckle out of
stainless steel for it may result in galling. I bought a piece of bronze from
McMaster-Carr and a friend milled it for me. The bronze cost about $30.00.
Bronze comes in different strenghts and suitability for milling. You want the
strongest that can still be milled.

Pat SM # 123

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