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Re: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012
Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Hi,
I drilled and tapped holes on opposite sides of the gearbox. One is high the other low. I pump grease into the box in the lower hole and when it comes out clean from the upper hole I stop. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Mike Ondra Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:39 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012 Eric et al, I am in the process of servicing/regreasing our outhaul gear box after 3 years since the last service (by taking it apart) and, to my relief, I found the gears and grease in good condition and a tiny bit of water inside. With the furler and outhaul gear boxes as tightly sealed as they are to keep out water, do you think there will be enough air/grease relief to allow the introduction of new grease through the grease port? Any chance of damaging a seal from the pressure of pumping in grease if there is no pressure relief? Mike SM#240 Aletes From: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Sailormon Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 12:26 AM To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012 Gary, I have never taken it apart. iT works fine. I am just going to add a couple of grease ports to it. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:02 AM To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012 HI Eric: In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post it? Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive maintenance". All the best, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote: that the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of thepower supplied.from its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.
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Re: [Amel] Re: New motor
I didn't know anyone else had a C Drive failure...thought I was the only lucky one.
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My Cdrive failure occurred when there were <150 hrs on the new 110HP Yanmar. It was barely out of the break-in period and hadn't been pushed hard except for running at 3000rpm for 5 min every few hrs. I don't think I've ever used the full 110 horses except to test the pitch on the MaxProp (maxes out at 3400rpm). I'd like to know when they beefed up the drive. I have SM 243 (1999). I understood they were putting 100HP Yanmars and 78HP Volvos in them at that time? Does anyone have a late '90s vintage SM (say #230s)with an original 100HP Yanmar? I'll ask Maud when the change was made and let you know what she says. Kent SM243 1999 KRISTY Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone powered by Alltel
-----Original Message-----
From: "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> Sender: amelyachtowners@... Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 05:47:58 To: <amelyachtowners@...> Reply-To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures. Bill BeBe SM2k #387 Turkey --- In amelyachtowners@..., "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012
Eric et al,
I am in the process of servicing/regreasing our outhaul gear box after 3 years since the last service (by taking it apart) and, to my relief, I found the gears and grease in good condition and a tiny bit of water inside. With the furler and outhaul gear boxes as tightly sealed as they are to keep out water, do you think there will be enough air/grease relief to allow the introduction of new grease through the grease port? Any chance of damaging a seal from the pressure of pumping in grease if there is no pressure relief? Mike SM#240 Aletes From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Sailormon Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 12:26 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012 Gary, I have never taken it apart. iT works fine. I am just going to add a couple of grease ports to it. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:02 AM To: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012 HI Eric: In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post it? Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive maintenance". All the best, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote: that the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of thepower supplied.from its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.
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Re: [Amel] Re: New motor
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi all, have to agree Bill that this could be a factor. Recently I saw a "red line" SM out of the water. I understand these were among the last SMs built. The auto prop on it was much larger than mine so I would assume that it has the 110 hp engine with a drive train and propellor to match. Â
Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl Mangonui New Zealand From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...> To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2012 5:47 PM Subject: [Amel] Re: New motor  I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures. Bill BeBe SM2k #387 Turkey --- In amelyachtowners@..., "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Auto pilot - Santorin
belitbh <belitbh@...>
Hello, it looks like our auto pilot is now 'tired' after 20 years in service, in 20kts winds and 1 mtr waves it works 100%, but in flat sea and 0 wind it can't keep course for a minute (the alarm will only start about 2mins after loosing course when the boat is already 90-180deg off course), sometimes when sitting on the helm and observing the loosing of course at early stage, assisting by slight manual pressure on the helm will take it back to action.
a. have anyone experienced the same? b. assume we will have to replace the unit (as some told us already) - what new ray marine unit will be most suitable for Santorin? Best regads
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Re: New motor
Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
I assume this is the root cause of the two recent C-drive failures.
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Bill BeBe SM2k #387 Turkey
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Barb" <surfskis2002@...> wrote:
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Maramu #29 water tank chronicles....
Dave_Benjamin
As I mentioned previously, there was no inspection port in what I thought was our forward most section of the water tank, so we installed one. Then I realized that the tank continued underneath the forward settee. Since the goal was to make the tank easy to clean with a pressure washer, we added another port there, but we went with a 4 inch (100mm) since it's a small space. I was surprised with how small that section of tank is.
Tomorrow we're doing a bit of gel-coating on the partitions where the factory finish was in need of attention. I plan to give the tanks a thorough cleaning on Friday, reinstall the table and maybe get the boat out for a sail this weekend.
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Re: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012
Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Gary,
I have never taken it apart. iT works fine. I am just going to add a couple of grease ports to it. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 10:02 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012 HI Eric: In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post it? Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive maintenance". All the best, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote: that the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of thepower supplied.from its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws.
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Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo getting hot
Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Ps the exhaust elbow never got above 160 degrees.
_____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 11:43 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo getting hot Hi Eric: Which side of the turbo are you speaking of? Is it the compressor side (side with the air intake housing attached) or is it the turbine side (side where the exhaust gases exit)? The turbine side of most turbo chargers run at exhaust gas temperatures (up to 1,600 degrees F normally in aircraft engines, and they glow cherry red, but I am not sure what temps the exhaust gases reach on diesels). Diesel engine turbos must not get that hot as no paint would last at all and mine is still painted and showing no signs of color change with 1,600 hrs of use. The compressor side should probably never exceed cylinder head temperature (again in aircraft this is usually below 400 degrees F) but I am guessing, based on the relatively small size of the turbo on our Yanmars, that you would never see temps over 200 degrees F. If you have an infrared thermometer (about $45 US from many sources) you can measure the temps of each side of the turbo charger as well as the center housing (the area between the turbine and compressor where the oil hoses join) while in operation at various RPM. That is very helpful in diagnosing any problems as well as establishing normal temps for future reference. Additionally, you can remove the air inlet screen and look into the compressor side. Stick you finger in there (with the engine cool and not operating of course) and spin the compressor blades. Make sure they appear normally shaped and uniform without nicks etc., and especially that this spins without much effort. Make sure the compressor blades are not rubbing on the housing around their circumference. Look for uniform color, shape, and structure. Lastly, notice where the discoloration or paint peeling is occurring. Is it right next to the center housing as the bearings of this are do get pretty hot but should never reach exhaust gas temperatures because of the oil cooling. If the engine is shut down while this area is really hot the oil in the center housing can coke and slow or prevent the turbo from turning. In aircraft we generally like to allow the turbo's to cool at idle RPM for 5 minutes to prevent coking. Probably not a bad idea in diesels.. So, verify that the turbo spins ok and also get us a little more information about where the paint is peeling etc for further diagnostic help. Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 # 335 lying Oyster Pond Marina , Sint Maartin --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote: paint on the turbo is starting to pel.
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Re: [Amel] Re: Turbo getting hot
Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Gary,
After running the turbo at 3400 rpm it got up to 200 degrees F. I just turned 4000 hours on the engine. I guess it just needs a little paint. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 11:43 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] Re: Turbo getting hot Hi Eric: Which side of the turbo are you speaking of? Is it the compressor side (side with the air intake housing attached) or is it the turbine side (side where the exhaust gases exit)? The turbine side of most turbo chargers run at exhaust gas temperatures (up to 1,600 degrees F normally in aircraft engines, and they glow cherry red, but I am not sure what temps the exhaust gases reach on diesels). Diesel engine turbos must not get that hot as no paint would last at all and mine is still painted and showing no signs of color change with 1,600 hrs of use. The compressor side should probably never exceed cylinder head temperature (again in aircraft this is usually below 400 degrees F) but I am guessing, based on the relatively small size of the turbo on our Yanmars, that you would never see temps over 200 degrees F. If you have an infrared thermometer (about $45 US from many sources) you can measure the temps of each side of the turbo charger as well as the center housing (the area between the turbine and compressor where the oil hoses join) while in operation at various RPM. That is very helpful in diagnosing any problems as well as establishing normal temps for future reference. Additionally, you can remove the air inlet screen and look into the compressor side. Stick you finger in there (with the engine cool and not operating of course) and spin the compressor blades. Make sure they appear normally shaped and uniform without nicks etc., and especially that this spins without much effort. Make sure the compressor blades are not rubbing on the housing around their circumference. Look for uniform color, shape, and structure. Lastly, notice where the discoloration or paint peeling is occurring. Is it right next to the center housing as the bearings of this are do get pretty hot but should never reach exhaust gas temperatures because of the oil cooling. If the engine is shut down while this area is really hot the oil in the center housing can coke and slow or prevent the turbo from turning. In aircraft we generally like to allow the turbo's to cool at idle RPM for 5 minutes to prevent coking. Probably not a bad idea in diesels.. So, verify that the turbo spins ok and also get us a little more information about where the paint is peeling etc for further diagnostic help. Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 # 335 lying Oyster Pond Marina , Sint Maartin --- In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote: paint on the turbo is starting to pel.
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Re: [Amel] YACHTING WORLD MAY 2012 ISSUE TESTING THE AMEL 55 AND
Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Hi,
I would love to receive it. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 3:55 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel] YACHTING WORLD MAY 2012 ISSUE TESTING THE AMEL 55 AND If anyone is interested in this article, I have it in an optimized PDF version, 2.9MB in size. I can email it to you. Please write to me. The address is: alex.paquin at usa.net This site won´t allow me to uploaded it to the files section.
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Re: [Amel] New motor
Barbara Nairne
Hi all,
Just info for anhyone else needing to repower an earlier model Super Maramu - below info from Maud After investigation we have found that you have the first version of cast iron drive unit and since then they have been upgraded and strengthened. Therefore the drive is not capable of taking a 110hp Yanmar engine. The recommended power handling is 83 HP at 1000 rpm i.e.580 N/M. We hope the information will help your mechanical engineer. Barb Sueno Azul Super Maramu No.39 1991 Model
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Re: [Amel] Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi Gary, Pen Azen is 12 years old and has done 48,000 miles. The jib furler still works ok but is making some noise. When I was in Hyeres recently the Amel guys listened to it and recommended that I get it serviced, though it's not urgent. I will be back in Hyeres in October and will hand it over to them. It is a really powerful piece of kit--I think its a 1200 or 1500 watt motor; the 54 has a 450 watt, non-Amel motor ( different gearing, obviously) which isn't as fast. The SM motor may be an ugly lump compared to the new non-Amel motors, but it has proved pretty bullet proof for us on three Amels going back 23 years. In October I will be able to tell you what the servicing involved. Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Elba
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To: amelyachtowners@...
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For those of you who have files uploaded
Jose_Luis <lji0041@...>
Dear mates,
As some of you have already noticed, we are running out of space in the files section. I kindly request to those who have files uploaded to have a short check and see if the volume can be reduced. For instance, for big 'doc' files with many photos, it is sometimes useful to save them as 'pdf'. Thanks and regards Group Moderator
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Re: Jib Furler 11.05.2012
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
HI Eric:
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In your post you refer to a scanned diagram with part numbers. Is this posted on this site somewhere? If not, when you have a chance could you post it? Have you serviced your jib furler? My boat is now 11 years old and having spent most of its life in the Caribbean and the fact that the jib furler seems to really get a work out, I am considering doing "preventive maintenance". All the best, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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Re: member
Jose_Luis <lji0041@...>
Sorry. I mean it can be Yahoo or gmail, etc, depending on the address.
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Group Moderator
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis" <lji0041@...> wrote:
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Re: member
Jose_Luis <lji0041@...>
Hi Myra,
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Your password is a Yahoo password. You have to recover it using Yahoo resources for it. I do not have access to your yahoo account. I can send you an invitation to a new address and afterwards I can delete the old one that is registered in our database. I will try to send this message also directly to your current account. Regards Group Moderator
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Myra Reid <myra.saoleile@...> wrote:
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Super Maramu Standing Rigging Measurements
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
I thought I had posted this before, but I couldn't find it in the Files or Photo Sections so I have now posted it in the Photo's Section.
It is a copy of the dimensions for the standing rigging for the Amel Super Maramu ( In French with English translation by me) . The diagram was provided to me by Chantiers Amel. See the Photo's section under Amel SM - Standing Rigging Dimensions (comes up on the second page of my browser). In answer to a previous question, the forestay cable is 12 mm according to this diagram from Amel. All the best, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
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Jib Furler 11.05.2012
Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
Hi,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
The furler is rather simple. The extension of the foil has a gear attached to it part number 8 in the scan. That gear is attached to a worm gear that rotates the gear. Being that the motor in the pdf file is dc it rotates in either direction of the power supplied. This is from amel years ago "To be able to take the jib furler apart, you need to loosen the 2 mizzen backstays, the main mast backstay, the 2 main mast main shrouds, and last the forestay. Once the forestay turnbuckle is completely detached, the jib furler can be removed from the forestay. Of course you will have to split the furler from its tube. They are connected with aluminium rivets or with screws. The notched wheel (258.00 Euros ex Vat), the worm screw (361.00 Euros ex Vat), the set of 5 bearings (258.00 Euros) and the set of 3 seals (81.00 Euros) are available. We usually replace the bearings and the seals as well as the notched wheel but we almost never replace the worm screw which is a stronger part." Attached are photos of the most commonly replaced parts. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
-----Original Message-----
From: EIJJ4@... [mailto:EIJJ4@...] Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 1:24 PM To: Eric Freedman Subject: Jib Furler 11.05.2012 Dear Eric, Your name has been given to my wife Myra Reid, by friends Ian and Judy Jenkins, as a very knowledgeable person on Amel Super Maramu's. We have a 1998 SMII , SAOL EILE, hull no 228. I am hoping that you can give us some advice. We have just arrived in the Marquise's Islands, at NUKU-HIVA. On the passage we twice had problems with our jib furler, which during sail setting completely and suddenly unfurled. Amel in answer to my request for advice have told me to make adjustments, have said that they have NO DOCUMENTATION on the mechanism, but offered to send me (for 30 Euros plus postage) the owners CD. The owners CD I have already, and it tells me that maintenance is not required, and does not even give me the manufacturers name for an internet search. I presume that there is a locking pin or pawl that is withdrawn/unlocked by the power application during furling or unfurling, but have no other idea. From looking at the furler, I presume that access to the locking mechanism is through the bottom plate ?. I hope that you may be more helpful than Amel, as Ian and Judy have often spoken of your knowledge, and Myra tells me that you often post help on the Amel owners net. Yours, in hope Paraic O Maoilriada ------------------------------------------------- Do not push the "reply" button to respond to this message if that includes the text of this original message in your response. Messages are sent over a very low-speed radio link. The most concise way to reply is to send a NEW message to: EIJJ4@... If you DO use your reply button, be sure to delete the original message text and these instructions from your reply. Replies should not contain attachments and should be less than 5 kBytes (2 text pages) in length. This email was delivered by an HF private coast station in the Maritime Mobile Radio Service, operated by the SailMail Association, a non-profit association of yacht owners. For more information on this service or on the SailMail Association, please see the web site at: http://www.sailmail.com
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[Amel] Re: Rigging replacement
Dave_Benjamin
Stainless can suffer galling if it is not properly lubricated with Lanocote or Tefgel. As long as you use one of those or similar, I'm not sure if I'd go to the expense of custom fabrication.
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--- In amelyachtowners@..., karkauai@... wrote:
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