Date   

Re: [Amel] Spare Parts Contact at Amel

Veit <veitm@...>
 

Hello :

It is sav@...

Cheers
Veit

Sent from VM mobile


On Dec 6, 2010, at 15:08, "Thomas" <thomas.kleman@...> wrote:

Does anyone have the e-mail address of the best/most responsive spare parts contact at Amel ? I seem to have an incorrect e-mail address.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Spare Parts Contact at Amel

Thomas <thomas.kleman@...>
 

Does anyone have the e-mail address of the best/most responsive spare parts contact at Amel ? I seem to have an incorrect e-mail address.


Eau Mer alarm

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

You can test the alarm by removing the small hose that goes to the sea chest
and sucking on that hose.

The alarm should sound. Unfortunately one time I had the smallest air leak
in my engine raw water pump. It was at the raw water pump cover plate, and
the alarm did not sound so I changed the sensor. You can view the melted
Vetus plastic Muffler in the photo section. This made no difference, then I
sucked on the hose and the alarm sounded. Fortunately I carry spare mufflers
. I also had a new metal muffler made .



I did change the raw water pump cover plate, but somewhere in the manifold I
have the smallest air leak and I can not find it.

I motored for over 100 hours and I had no problems with the engine. I also
would like to know how to find this miniscule air leak.



What actually saved me one time is that I purchased an exhaust high
temperature sensor fro Borel manufacturing. It consists of a thermocouple
that mounts at the exhaust of the engine and mounts around the exhaust hose.
It also has a alarm horn that I mounted next to the Amel alarm. If I lose
cooling water the alarm goes off . the hookup taes about 20 minutes.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Peter Aubrey
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Eau Mer alarm





I recently set off under engine with the main sea water intake cock shut
because someone working on the generator forgot to open it when the sea
water pump was replaced. Luckily I realised something was wrong within a
few minutes and returned on low power to the marina where I discovered the
seawater intake was closed. Like Mark I was also concerned that the alarm in
the companionway did not sound. I am also wondering now if the alarm is
faulty on my SM2K and if there is a means of testing it. After this I
replaced the sea water impellor on the engine as a precaution in case there
was any damage although the engine only ran for about five minutes. The
engine has been fine ever since.

Peter SM2K 293 MAIA


Eau Mer alarm

Peter Aubrey <peter.aubrey@...>
 

I recently set off under engine with the main sea water intake cock shut
because someone working on the generator forgot to open it when the sea
water pump was replaced. Luckily I realised something was wrong within a
few minutes and returned on low power to the marina where I discovered the
seawater intake was closed. Like Mark I was also concerned that the alarm in
the companionway did not sound. I am also wondering now if the alarm is
faulty on my SM2K and if there is a means of testing it. After this I
replaced the sea water impellor on the engine as a precaution in case there
was any damage although the engine only ran for about five minutes. The
engine has been fine ever since.

Peter SM2K 293 MAIA


blockage alarm

Mark Hayden
 

My understanding is that the narrow line attached to the seawater intake that leads several feet above to some kind of sensor is there to detect blockage and trigger the "filter eau mer puisard" light and alarm in the companionway on my SM2K. I've been unable to trigger this alarm, for instance by closing the seacock and running one of the pumps. I'm concerned it may not be working.

Does anyone have any information on this sensor/alarm, such as around testing its operation?

Thanks in advance,

Mark


Re: Sharki solar panel mounting

Dave_Benjamin
 

We have a Maramu so there's no issue with the mizzen boom overhanging the stern. A customer of mine traded me a set of Kato davits in exchange for me spending a day on his boat doing a wind vane install.

We will mount the davits and install an additional 135w panel on the crossmember between the davits. A sistership to our boat has Kato davits and they seem to work okay.

Depending on how much overhang you have perhaps it's not a problem to do something similar on your boat.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "GrahamJohnston42" <grahamjohnston42@...> wrote:

Hello all,
Has anyone fitted a davit and solar panel arrangement to the stern of their Sharki, or anything similar?

I have looked at this idea but as the end of the mizzen boom overhamgs the stern the framework would have to be set quite far aft and perhaps would look rather odd. Any ideas or pictures would be appreciated.



Regards
Graham


Installed Systems / Spare parts

veitm@ymail.com <veitm@...>
 

Hello All:

We recently bought a Super Maramu (1998) hull 215 and I am wondering if anybody has gone through the work to create a list of installed systems, addresses of suppliers and suggested spare parts?
I have a maintenance listing from a friend for a SM2k...but being told that their are enough differences...
Thank you,
Veit


Re: [Amel] Re: shaft driven alternater Sharki #127

Patrick McAneny
 

I had my alt. totally rebuilt at an alt. shop and it cost me $82.00.Rebuild
rather than replace. SM 123


Re: [Amel] Re: shaft driven alternater Sharki #127

Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@...>
 

I bought the followinbg from WMJ, it fitted, and it had the right pulley for the
ribbon cable fitted to my boat:

ARCO MANDO 55A ALTERNATOR arc-60055 1 189.00
FOR MERCRUISER 60055
Horst, Maramu 185




________________________________
From: GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sat, 4 December, 2010 10:46:25
Subject: [Amel] Re: shaft driven alternater Sharki #127


We have Sharki 181 with a Valeo 25 amp shaft alternator.
It is a Type A290, this number has now been changed to 510837. I it is identical
to a Motorola unit, they look as though they come out of the same factory and
use the same brush set etc.

The current replacement has a UK list price of approximately £1200.00, yes one
thousand two hundred pounds! So I would suggest that you get yours repaired or
find a more sensibly priced alternative.

You should bre able to find an auto shop that can test and repair your existing
unit.
Best of luck.

Regards
Graham

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Geoffrey" <geoffrey_tyers@...> wrote:

Could somebody provide the specifications on the shaft driven alternater so
that I can have my current model checked. I get no output at 6 kts thru the
water... Does any body recommend a permenant magnet alternater.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: shaft driven alternater Sharki #127

Eric Lindholm <etlindholm@...>
 

Geoffrey. I have a common 12 volt Delco alternator that was modified by putting
a 24 volt rotor into a 12 volt stator (case). It has an internal 12 volt
regulator.  It bolted up in place of the Amel supplied alternator, which on my
maramu was a Paris Ronn. I had to remove approximately 1/2 inch from the front
of the foot of the alternator that mounts on the bracket above the transmission,
and do a little machine work on the small diameter pulley to fit it onto the
alternator. The total cost of the alternator ready to go was only $120 US. It
puts out 16 amps at 6.5 knots, twice what the original did. If you ask around, I
am sure someone can direct you to an alternator repair shop that could test your
alternator and repair what you have, or provide you with an improved version. 

Eric Maramu 105 



________________________________
From: GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sat, December 4, 2010 2:46:25 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: shaft driven alternater Sharki #127

 
We have Sharki 181 with a Valeo 25 amp shaft alternator.
It is a Type A290, this number has now been changed to 510837. I it is identical
to a Motorola unit, they look as though they come out of the same factory and
use the same brush set etc.

The current replacement has a UK list price of approximately £1200.00, yes one
thousand two hundred pounds! So I would suggest that you get yours repaired or
find a more sensibly priced alternative.

You should bre able to find an auto shop that can test and repair your existing
unit.
Best of luck.

Regards
Graham

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Geoffrey" <geoffrey_tyers@...> wrote:

Could somebody provide the specifications on the shaft driven alternater so
that I can have my current model checked. I get no output at 6 kts thru the
water... Does any body recommend a permenant magnet alternater.


Sharki solar panel mounting

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hello all,
Has anyone fitted a davit and solar panel arrangement to the stern of their Sharki, or anything similar?

I have looked at this idea but as the end of the mizzen boom overhamgs the stern the framework would have to be set quite far aft and perhaps would look rather odd. Any ideas or pictures would be appreciated.



Regards
Graham


Re: shaft driven alternater Sharki #127

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

We have Sharki 181 with a Valeo 25 amp shaft alternator.
It is a Type A290, this number has now been changed to 510837. I it is identical to a Motorola unit, they look as though they come out of the same factory and use the same brush set etc.

The current replacement has a UK list price of approximately £1200.00, yes one thousand two hundred pounds! So I would suggest that you get yours repaired or find a more sensibly priced alternative.

You should bre able to find an auto shop that can test and repair your existing unit.
Best of luck.

Regards
Graham

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Geoffrey" <geoffrey_tyers@...> wrote:

Could somebody provide the specifications on the shaft driven alternater so that I can have my current model checked. I get no output at 6 kts thru the water... Does any body recommend a permenant magnet alternater.


Re: [Amel] Maramu repower

bsarff@...
 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, December 3, 2010 4:08:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu repower

 




Hi Deb and John,

The problem with the port and starboard rail solar install is that one is almost always in shade due to the mizzen boom. We are adding a set of davits and will put a third panel on top of the crosspiece between the davits. If you have davits or plan to have davits I'd suggest getting one or two panels up there as the rail mounted ones have proven inefficient.

We spent last season on the hook and I was keeping a pretty close eye on the solar controller.

Cheers,

Dave Benjamin
Maramu #29

--- In amelyachtowners@... , woods deborah <woodsdeborah_56@...> wrote:

Hi Howard

Many thanks for the information we are looking into the Yanmar and the pics were
really helpful. You have installed your solar panels on port and starboard rails
at the stern we are planning to do the same with two Kyocera 135 watt panels.
Foe interest which way did you run the cables? Did you go through the deck as
close to the toe rail as possible and install cable glands?

Regards

Deb and John
Orion1




________________________________
From: svresolute <svresolute@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sun, 21 November, 2010 16:14:17
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu repower


Hi John and Deb, this is Howard from s/v Jazz, Maramu #144.

We just finished a 3 1/2 year refit (restoration, really) of our Maramu which
included repowering with a 75HP Yanmar 4JH4-TE. If you go to the Photos
section, look for the album sv JAZZ which documents the entire process. There
are several photos of the engine installation. You might also consider
replacing the stuffing box with a dripless unit (we used a Tides Marine) and a
large alternator (ours is a Bomar 210 amp that mounts directly to the engine
with a kit made expressly for the Yanmar by a company called Altmount). Because
the Yanmar puts out 13 more horsepower than the original Perkins we also went up
an inch in size on our Maxprop.

Regards,
Howard Berger
s/v Jazz Maramu 144







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I plan to add a davit or arch in the next year and wonder is anyone has installed one that they are happy with and if you have pictures.  I will use the arch for solar panels and a wind generator.   Is there a "standard" one available on the market or will  I need to have one custom made?



Thanks for any advice you can offer



Bob & Joyce

S/V Chara

#173



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Maramu repower

Dave_Benjamin
 

Hi Deb and John,

The problem with the port and starboard rail solar install is that one is almost always in shade due to the mizzen boom. We are adding a set of davits and will put a third panel on top of the crosspiece between the davits. If you have davits or plan to have davits I'd suggest getting one or two panels up there as the rail mounted ones have proven inefficient.

We spent last season on the hook and I was keeping a pretty close eye on the solar controller.

Cheers,

Dave Benjamin
Maramu #29

--- In amelyachtowners@..., woods deborah <woodsdeborah_56@...> wrote:

Hi Howard

Many thanks for the information we are looking into the Yanmar and the pics were
really helpful. You have installed your solar panels on port and starboard rails
at the stern we are planning to do the same with two Kyocera 135 watt panels.
Foe interest which way did you run the cables? Did you go through the deck as
close to the toe rail as possible and install cable glands?

Regards

Deb and John
Orion1




________________________________
From: svresolute <svresolute@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sun, 21 November, 2010 16:14:17
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu repower


Hi John and Deb, this is Howard from s/v Jazz, Maramu #144.

We just finished a 3 1/2 year refit (restoration, really) of our Maramu which
included repowering with a 75HP Yanmar 4JH4-TE. If you go to the Photos
section, look for the album sv JAZZ which documents the entire process. There
are several photos of the engine installation. You might also consider
replacing the stuffing box with a dripless unit (we used a Tides Marine) and a
large alternator (ours is a Bomar 210 amp that mounts directly to the engine
with a kit made expressly for the Yanmar by a company called Altmount). Because
the Yanmar puts out 13 more horsepower than the original Perkins we also went up
an inch in size on our Maxprop.

Regards,
Howard Berger
s/v Jazz Maramu 144







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)

Thomas <thomas.kleman@...>
 

Ahhhh- success !!!! For anyone looking for these brushes, here is the contact info: rnadeau@...

It seems Leroy-Somer is owned by Emerson Electric (offices in St. Louis and Montreal)..........Mr. Nadeau is the inside sales guy. There are affiliates, departments, and a baffling array of people I had to deal with to find him but this is THE GUY.


Re: [Amel] Maramu repower

woods deborah <woodsdeborah_56@...>
 

Hi Howard

Many thanks for the information we are looking into the Yanmar and the pics were
really helpful. You have installed your solar panels on port and starboard rails
at the stern we are planning to do the same with two Kyocera 135 watt panels.
Foe interest which way did you run the cables? Did you go through the deck as
close to the toe rail as possible and install cable glands?

Regards

Deb and John
Orion1




________________________________
From: svresolute <svresolute@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sun, 21 November, 2010 16:14:17
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu repower


Hi John and Deb, this is Howard from s/v Jazz, Maramu #144.

We just finished a 3 1/2 year refit (restoration, really) of our Maramu which
included repowering with a 75HP Yanmar 4JH4-TE. If you go to the Photos
section, look for the album sv JAZZ which documents the entire process. There
are several photos of the engine installation. You might also consider
replacing the stuffing box with a dripless unit (we used a Tides Marine) and a
large alternator (ours is a Bomar 210 amp that mounts directly to the engine
with a kit made expressly for the Yanmar by a company called Altmount). Because
the Yanmar puts out 13 more horsepower than the original Perkins we also went up
an inch in size on our Maxprop.

Regards,
Howard Berger
s/v Jazz Maramu 144







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] main halyard problem

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Pat give me a call when you can

Regards
Richard Piller

On Nov 29, 2010, at 8:44, "Patrick McAneny" <sailw32@...> wrote:

I tried to drop my main and it would not drop.I applied downward pull on the tack to the point I was afraid I might damage the sail.It became apparent it was stuck at the top of mast.I went to the top and I could not see but it felt as though there was two sections of the halyard going over the top of the sheave.I think that I did not have the downhaul short enough and the sail low enough an when I tensioned the halyard the knot or sliced pulled over the sheave and through the plates on the sides that hold the sheave and now will not came back through.I think Iam going to have to cut the halyard at the sheave to drop the sail and drop the halyard and rerun it.Two questions,Does the halyard ran inside a conduit that a knot or splice would hang up on?I would not think there would be ,but wanted to check before I cut.I do not know what you call the car/swivel that the head of the main is attached to,but how is the halyard attached, a splice?
Thanks,Pat SM123


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] main halyard problem

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Pat before you CUT thread a tracer of string to the halyard remove the line at the base of the main to relive some of the pressure on the main.
If you can not get to the areA below the knot attach the tracer at the point at which it is attached to the head of the sail. You may have a better shot to attached the tracer later.
Now see if you can pull the main UP to allow the halyard back over the shive

With any luck the Amel installed tracer is still available to assist you if you need it.

If you want some help I'm here in Annapolis
Good luck
Regards
Richard Piller sm209 For Sale in Annapolis

On Nov 29, 2010, at 8:44, "Patrick McAneny" <sailw32@...> wrote:

I tried to drop my main and it would not drop.I applied downward pull on the tack to the point I was afraid I might damage the sail.It became apparent it was stuck at the top of mast.I went to the top and I could not see but it felt as though there was two sections of the halyard going over the top of the sheave.I think that I did not have the downhaul short enough and the sail low enough an when I tensioned the halyard the knot or sliced pulled over the sheave and through the plates on the sides that hold the sheave and now will not came back through.I think Iam going to have to cut the halyard at the sheave to drop the sail and drop the halyard and rerun it.Two questions,Does the halyard ran inside a conduit that a knot or splice would hang up on?I would not think there would be ,but wanted to check before I cut.I do not know what you call the car/swivel that the head of the main is attached to,but how is the halyard attached, a splice?
Thanks,Pat SM123


main halyard problem

Patrick McAneny
 

I tried to drop my main and it would not drop.I applied downward pull on the tack to the point I was afraid I might damage the sail.It became apparent it was stuck at the top of mast.I went to the top and I could not see but it felt as though there was two sections of the halyard going over the top of the sheave.I think that I did not have the downhaul short enough and the sail low enough an when I tensioned the halyard the knot or sliced pulled over the sheave and through the plates on the sides that hold the sheave and now will not came back through.I think Iam going to have to cut the halyard at the sheave to drop the sail and drop the halyard and rerun it.Two questions,Does the halyard ran inside a conduit that a knot or splice would hang up on?I would not think there would be ,but wanted to check before I cut.I do not know what you call the car/swivel that the head of the main is attached to,but how is the halyard attached, a splice?
Thanks,Pat SM123


Re: [Amel] Triatic stay

Fisher, Thomas W.
 

Hi David,

I have also found it difficult to have the triactic tuned properly. I'm
not certain but It seems only to provide forward support to the Mizzen
mast on any point of sail other than down wind. If tuned correctly, I
suppose while sailing down wind some of the forces from the main are
also spread out through the entire rig. Two other Lake Ontario Sharki
owners have rigged 2 adjustable back stays for the mizzen. One to port
and the other to starboard. This makes tensioning the mizzen much easier
as you don't have to worry about the mizzen boom. Simple let one stay
off and tighten the other in. I basically copied their arrangement. I
don't know if this was how things were originally intended but it does
work nicely.

By the way to any of you who are waiting for the PDF of the NECO auto
helm manual, my apologies. I have it at the office but just have to take
a few minutes to get it done and emailed.


Tom
SHEILA, Sharki #146




________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of spritoaffine
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 07:38
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Triatic stay




Can anyone explain the purpose of the triatic stay other than as an
antenna for the SSB. I have some Amel pictures of a Sharki showing the
triatic taut (which is how I thought it should always be)when going to
windward and slack when on a broad reach (even though the running
backstay appears to be in use). Any thoughts?
David & Hazel
Spirito Affine Sharki 148