We did exactly that. Believe me you will be happier with a chilled
bottle of wine instead of clean dishes.
We just crossed to the Med and are now happy to stock our 2nd fridge
with local wine!!
Bob
s/v Minaxi




On Jul 29, 2010, at 10:19 PM, Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...
> wrote:

We rarely use our dishwasher.We are heading for the Med. We have a
fridge and one freezer. We would dearly love to convert the
dishwasher space into a cooler box space for beers, wine, sodas etc
Has anyone done this? How did it turn out? Ian and Judy, Pen Azen,
SM 302, South Uist, Outer Hebrides ( where there is little call for
a cool box...)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Richard,
I called the manufacturer of the SewClean product to inquire about your concerns, and they were adamant that their product does not harm plastic, rubber or metal. Since posting my first notes on this product, I also have used it to clean the lines from my seachest to the toilet and have had good results. I also did a mini-test with a rubber O-ring, leaving it in a bowl of the SewClean (undiluted) efor 3 days and it seemed unaffected.

John
MOON DOG
SM 248

We rarely use our dishwasher.We are heading for the Med. We have a fridge and one freezer. We would dearly love to convert the dishwasher space into a cooler box space for beers, wine, sodas etc Has anyone done this? How did it turn out? Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, South Uist, Outer Hebrides ( where there is little call for a cool box...)

This is a nice design, thank you for sharing ! I have had no luck locating any device similar to the original Amel equipment so this is a good option to consider.

Ruth
MOON DOG
SM 248



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: kanalmamman@...
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:36:08 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: portlight "drip guard" & genoa track wheel






When we were in La Rochelle, France at the Amel poonton I saw this arrangement on an Super Maramu.
Please look in the Album "Portlight sun and drip protection". Maybee it can help if you can't get hold of a new plastic one.

Regards
Annsofie
S/Y Lady Annila. SM 232
for the moment in La Coruña, Spain

--- In amelyachtowners@..., john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:

Hello All,



Most SM's (as well as other Amel models) seem to have the galley portlight equipped with a plastic drip guard. Ours is starting to chip and degrade. It works very nicely and I'd like to have one for the aft head port as well. The Amel parts department just told me they no longer carry them in stock, and did not offer any advice about an alternative source. I have never seen one on another type boat. There is nothing similar on the Goiot web site. Does anyone know of a source for a similar device ?



Similarly, the black line wheel at the aft end of one of our genoa track systems has cracked and no doubt the other one will crack soon too. These are stamped Amel; Amel can provide them for 133 Euros each + shipping to the US. Does anyone know of an alternate source ?



Thanks

Ruth

MOON DOG

SM #248

__________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When we were in La Rochelle, France at the Amel poonton I saw this arrangement on an Super Maramu.
Please look in the Album "Portlight sun and drip protection". Maybee it can help if you can't get hold of a new plastic one.

Regards
Annsofie
S/Y Lady Annila. SM 232
for the moment in La Coruña, Spain

We got a little too aggressive in cleaning a wine stain on the beige Ultrasuede fabric on aft fridge locker seat cushion...we cleaned it until the microfiber pile was removed from the base cloth. I have contacted Amel and they advised that they no longer have these.

Does anyone happen to know where I can order a cover ready to install?

My alternative plan is to have a new cover made using the old cover as a pattern and using the aft mattress cover for material. However, we assume that we would wait until we are in the Med next year in order to find a capable upholsterer.

Suggestions welcome.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia

Hi,

Follow the battery cables. They come to a central set of studs.

On the other side of the wood panel where the studs are mounted is the
shunt. I believe there is a flap cut into the area under the mattress to
access this.

Fair Winds



Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Anne and John Hollamby
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:19 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Emeter shunt





Following a major short circuit my Emeter now only reads voltage. I have
replaced a burnt out fuse in the supply line so probably either the the
meter is beyond repair or the 500 amp shunt has burnt out.But I cannot find
the shunt which is not apparent beside the battery switches so far as I can
see. Any clues anyone?

Hoping, John, Bali Hai, SM 319

Hi Ian, I think you are right about the Onan impellers not being designed to run dry. In our engine room is a sign saying that if the seawater has been drained the main engine should be run first before the Onan--presumably to get some water into the system. Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, South Uist.

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: sv_freespirit@...
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 15:23:22 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Genset Cooling Circuit Airlock -NOW SOLVED!

Hi Erick and all who helped with this problem,

I read your post two days after I finally cured the problem. Our cases
are very similar. Having decided to have one final go at finding the
cause, I removed the impeller pump completely from the genset. Removing
the end cover revealed a perfect set of impeller blades. I had done this
before and naturally assumed that the impeller was good, especially as I
had only recently changed it. I decided however to extract the impeller
and check the inlet and outlet holes for any debris. This revealed the
root of the problem, which in many ways resembled yours.

There was a considerable build up of corrosion part way around the
inside corner of the impeller housing. Instead of a neat right angle
between the inner face of the housing and the circular face that the
tips of the blades squeeze against, about one third of the circumference
was raised and had dog eared the blades as they rotated over this rough
area on the inner side of the blades only. Not enough to stop the pump
working when the boat was stationary, but enough for water not to be
drawn up to the pump after movement on the boat through the water had
siphoned the water level below the sea chest pipe elbow.

Having put vinegar and my best toothbrush to work on the corrosion and
changed the impeller, I am very happy to report that even during an 8 kt
sail in moderate seas, the generator started and kept running without
problem. Yee Ha!

What I have not yet been able to do is to see whether water is still
drawn back down the inlet pipe when the boat is sailing now that the
impeller blades fit the housing properly. It was too rough to safely
remove my folding cycle from it's stowage in front of the sea chest, but
I shall endeavour to do so in the next few days. If this still is the
case, then I shall try and find a non return valve and fit it in the
inlet pipe to the impeller. I don't believe that these impellers were
deisgned to run dry whilst drawing water to the pump, and anything that
prevents this must improve their life.

Problem solved. Many thanks to all of you that went to the trouble to
help out. Moral of the story? Never assume anything!

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader


On 05/07/2010 19:24, G D wrote

Hi Ian
I went through your post and this reminded me what happened to me two years ago.
The symptoms were the same and being unable to find the reason of this breakdown drove me crazy for two days. I checked each and every pipe. As long as there were no counter pressure it was ok. Each time I connected all the pipes the pump did not work. The impeller was new. I changed the entire gasket set of the water pump. I checked every possible solution with no success until I fixed back the old impeller and, miracle everything went back to normal?
Incredible indeed. I took off again the pump impeller cover and while holding it between my fingers I realized that the inner cover face was uneven and slightly worn out. There was a difference of a couple of tenth of millimetres due to the impeller friction which left a print into the steel. In fact the old impeller was matching perfectly the small cavity conversely to the new one which did not. I then polished the plate surface to even it. I fix it back with the new impeller and miracle after two days of nightmare it worked perfectly. It has been working perfectly well since.
It was a very tricky issue which I managed to solve just by luck!
I hope this post will be helpful.
Erick

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yahoogroups@...
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 08:00:52 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: Genset Cooling Circuit Airlock




























Hi Ian,



I did not ask for the experience, but I have had a lot of experience with salt water flow and the Onan because I had 3 strange issues occurring at the same time:

(1) The stainless steel pipe had a suction leak.

(2) A high rate of impeller failure.

(3) Water-flow sensor failure.

At one point I thought they were related, but later found that they were separate. The water pump impeller shaft key was sufficiently worn causing the impeller to spin on the shaft, the pipe had a defective seam, and the water-flow sensor was filled with crud.



During these issues I found that the slightest amount of air entering on the suction side of the pump would cause a water-flow shutdown, a small amount of crud would cause a water-flow shutdown, and a missing or cracked impeller blade would also cause a shutdown. Recently, I found a 4th cause of water-flow shutdown:

"Y" fitting off the sea chest clogged very tightly with mussels.



The more I think about your problem, the more I am curious about your situation. I have disconnected the input hose to the salt water pump enough times to know that if the sea chest valve is open and the lines are clear of obstructions, gravity will cause water to flow freely through the hose when it is disconnected from the intake side of the sea water pump. Close the intake valve to the sea chest and the water flow at the intake to the salt water pump stops.



I believe that if water is flowing freely to the intake side of the salt water pump, it is impossible to have air replace the water in the salt water pump unless air is entering as the pump begins to operate, or possibly a cracked or broken impeller blade.



Like I said, I have done this drill more times than I can count. Here is what I would do:



1. Remove the hose from the intake side of the Onan salt water pump, holding the end over a bucket. Loosen the clamp on the hose where connected to the SS pipe. Twist the hose downward several inches. Water should begin to flow and continue to flow freely (no dribbles) until the sea chest valve is closed...If NOT, there is an obstruction. Clear the obstruction and go sailing. If this does not solve the issue, go to 2.



2. Buy a 2-3 meter piece of wire-reinforced 25mm hose. Disconnect the Onan 25mm hose from the "Y" on the sea chest. Using a piece of wire, inspect the "Y" carefully to ensure no obstructions then connect this new hose to the "Y." Connect the other end of the hose to the input side of Onan Salt Water pump. Go sail. If this solves the problem you either have an obstruction in the SS pipe or 25mm hose or you have an air leak in either or both (it is possible to have a small tear in the hose which does not leak water, but will allow air). If this does not solve the issue, leave the hose in place and go to 3.



3. Pull the Onan Salt Water pump. Change the impeller, carefully inspecting the shaft key to ensure it is not worn. Go sail. If this does not solve the issue, leave the hose in place and go to 4.



4. Remove the heat exchanger and have it properly cleaned; reinstall it with a new zinc (take care with the end caps as they are delicate and will probably need replacing). Go sail.



If this does not solve the issue, I have wasted your time, and for that I apologize. If it works, one Red Stripe, please.



I remain curious of your eventual solution.



Best,



Bill

BeBe, SM2k, #387

Currently Malaysia



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Ian Shepherd<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

thanks for the suggestion. I have checked the stainless pipe and there

is no sign of any leaking water, though I have been unable to check the

aft end of the pipe yet as it is buried under storage boxes that I built

above the hot water tank.

If left at it's berth, the genset will always start normally with a good

supply of water. It's only when sailing that the water disappears. It

would seem that the forward motion sucks the water out of the system,

creating an air lock. Why water does not get forced back to the pump

when the boat is staionary and on an even keel is a mystery. Maybe if

the impeller vanes straddle the intake opening, then the air cannot pas

through the pump?

Two solutions come to mind. Install a scoop at the strainer intake.

(Haul out required and more drag), or install a non return valve just

below the impeller. I am dubious as to whether such a valve exists that

will withstand prolonged salt water immersion.

I have emailed Amel for help and will pass it along if they come up with

the answer.

Regards

Ian

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft’s powerful SPAM protection.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Following a major short circuit my Emeter now only reads voltage. I have replaced a burnt out fuse in the supply line so probably either the the meter is beyond repair or the 500 amp shunt has burnt out.But I cannot find the shunt which is not apparent beside the battery switches so far as I can see. Any clues anyone?

Hoping, John, Bali Hai, SM 319

Ian thanks for the reply. Do you know what grade of stainless you used?

Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 27, 2010, at 11:39, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Richard,

I am not sure if I mentioned that the stainless prop shaft bush has been
in use for over three years with no signs of any adverse effect.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 02/07/2010 14:13, Richard03801 wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you plan
between the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss normally does
not work well. If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is used as a
bearing surface. It may be that the bearing pack is stiff enough to
hold the shaft from moving/touching. I guess time will tell.
Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be detrimental to the
original concept. Maybe so, but here are three modifications that have
definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main engine prop shaft
bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I recently hauled for
the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely no wear
whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of the surface
where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no noticeable wear to
the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I changed them

anyway.

This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on the standard
bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much longer with
the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term cost saving too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M. There was a
noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in short seas.
The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and because of this
maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain and 100M of
rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker together with my
two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent of 100M of
10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly seems to be for
the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow thruster, which
seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of the time. The
arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre shaft is hardly
conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the shaft and had it
machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the lip seal to run
on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings, which were all
rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease. Of course this
prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube, so I

decided to

not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use water
repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back plate was
refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and grease was
also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and the lip seal.
This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster has never
sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings running is a sea
water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in power either.
Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this winter to see
if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the gears, but it
is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel gears will be
considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything that reduces
wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello again Ian,



Hadn't read your response.



Thanks very much for your info on the bevel gears and I will
put a taper on the s/s sleeve as you suggest.



I'm now back in the UK from Turkey and will overhaul the
Bowthruster gearbox this winter.



I also recently replaced the 2 large foam washers on the
bowthruster tube which has kept the interior of the boat much
cleaner, the main benefit was of course to avoid any sea
water reaching the ball race at the bottom of the bowthruster
motor as I believe some S/M s have had this ballrace
disintegrate and burn out the motor - a very expensive problem !



I'm sure that the Schleiper unit will be a better option than
the Leroy Somers Motor.



Thanks again,



Malcolm S/M 464 Bon Jovi



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: 27 July 2010 16:36
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Modifications





Hi Malcom,

you should be OK. My bevel gears were 7 years old before I made the
modification, and I suspect they were running in emulsion for much of
their life. Certainly before the recent haul out, there was no oil left
at all in the housing when I took the thruster apart. I am just amazed
that this unit was designed with a single lip seal and such a poor seal
to shaft contact surface. I believe that Amel use a Schleiper made unit
on the 54. At least the demo I had a look at when they first came out
was fitted with one.

By the way, when I had the stainless sleeve made for the shaft, I had
the outer end tapered. This makes it easier for the seal to slide onto
the shaft without popping the spring off it's inner face. I bet there
are quite a few Amels out there with the spring dislodged. It's so easy
to do.

Good luck

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 05/07/2010 07:47, Malcolm Phillips wrote:

Eric/Ian,

You may be interested to note that the bearing spec on my
Redline 464 gives 2 sealed ball races and one open, ie the top
one which then allows you to fill with oil. I am very
impressed with Ian,s modifications which I may do when I next
overhaul the bow thrusters gearbox. Unfortunately on the first
overhaul I concluded that the bevel gears were worn after
running in emulsion for a year SO PACKING WITH WATERPROOF
GREASE MAY BE THE ONLY WAY OF GETTING A SWEETER SOUND BACK !

Malcolm

S/M 464 Bon Jovi

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: 03 July 2010 06:13
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Modifications

Ian,

As I understand what you wrote about the bow thruster you added a

sleeve

in
the shaft that is connected to the prp and replaced the bearings with
sealed
bearings and then packed the gearbox with grease.

Why can you not add oil from the top of the bow thruster?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of sv_crusader
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 12:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Modifications

Hello Richard,

the stainless bush was an exact copy of the bronze one, except that it
was
made with three grub screws instead of two to allow better centering.

Assembled with grease there are no signs of any Galling after over

three

years of use. In fact both the shaft and the bush look as new.

I am off for 10 weeks sailing this morning, so will be unable to reply
further until I find a wireless network to log on to, but I will be

glad

to
discuss further when I get back.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader (Headed for Mersin Eastern Turkey)

--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Richard03801
<richard03801@...>
wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you plan

between
the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss normally does not work
well.
If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is used as a bearing

surface.

It
may be that the bearing pack is stiff enough to hold the shaft from
moving/touching. I guess time will tell.

Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be detrimental to

the

original concept. Maybe so, but here are three modifications that

have

definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main engine prop

shaft

bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I recently

hauled

for

the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely no wear
whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of the

surface

where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no noticeable wear

to

the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I changed them

anyway.

This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on the

standard

bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much longer

with

the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term cost

saving

too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M. There was a
noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in short

seas.

The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and because of

this

maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain and

100M

of

rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker together

with

my

two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent of 100M

of

10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly seems to be

for

the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow thruster,

which

seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of the time.

The

arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre shaft is

hardly

conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the shaft and

had

it

machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the lip seal

to

run

on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings, which were

all

rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease. Of course

this

prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube, so I

decided to

not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use water
repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back plate was
refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and grease

was

also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and the lip

seal.

This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster has

never

sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings running is a

sea

water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in power

either.

Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this winter to

see

if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the gears,

but

it

is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel gears

will

be

considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything that

reduces

wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

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Hi Ian,



Very interested in you mods to Bowthruster gearbox. Despite changing all my bearings and seals the water still gets in and I think that the stainless steel sleeve on the prop drive shaft is the answer.



I would therefore be grateful if you could e-mail the exact o/d of your sleeve to suit the seal i/d if you have a note of this size.



Maybe then I can stop waking up everyone in the Marina every time I leave !



Regards,



Malcolm S/M 464 Bon Jovi.



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: 27 July 2010 16:39
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Modifications





Hi Richard,

I am not sure if I mentioned that the stainless prop shaft bush has been
in use for over three years with no signs of any adverse effect.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 02/07/2010 14:13, Richard03801 wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you plan
between the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss normally does
not work well. If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is used as a
bearing surface. It may be that the bearing pack is stiff enough to
hold the shaft from moving/touching. I guess time will tell.
Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@... <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be detrimental to the
original concept. Maybe so, but here are three modifications that have
definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main engine prop shaft
bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I recently hauled for
the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely no wear
whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of the surface
where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no noticeable wear to
the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I changed them

anyway.

This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on the standard
bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much longer with
the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term cost saving too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M. There was a
noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in short seas.
The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and because of this
maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain and 100M of
rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker together with my
two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent of 100M of
10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly seems to be for
the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow thruster, which
seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of the time. The
arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre shaft is hardly
conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the shaft and had it
machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the lip seal to run
on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings, which were all
rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease. Of course this
prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube, so I

decided to

not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use water
repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back plate was
refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and grease was
also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and the lip seal.
This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster has never
sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings running is a sea
water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in power either.
Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this winter to see
if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the gears, but it
is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel gears will be
considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything that reduces
wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

The lip seals are made by Paulestra in France.

I have written them for other sources .

I also have written to a friend of mine at Renault to find out where we can get the companionway seal.
lip seal

Paulestra #
792620
IEL 30-45-5
ca 1 of

Fair Winds,
eric
sm 376

Dear Giovanni,
ABORA is in Trinidad at Peak. We are at home in Heidelberg till end of november.
Last season we made trinidad-BVI-Trinidad.
From Dec we will go to ABC Islands , Carthagena, St Blas, ....till French
Polynesia.

Regards

Wolfgang
SM 2000 ABORA




________________________________
Von: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@...>
An: amelyachtowners@...
Gesendet: Sonntag, den 25. Juli 2010, 13:03:15 Uhr
Betreff: Re: [Amel] Storage at RAIATEA

 
Hi to all,
thanks so much Tom and Wolfgang for infos for storage in Raiatea.
I wrote to CNI, but for now no answer.
Wolfgang, where are you ? Wich was your route ?
All the best
Gianni
EUTIKIA
SM2K 428

Hi Richard,

I am not sure if I mentioned that the stainless prop shaft bush has been
in use for over three years with no signs of any adverse effect.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader

Hi Malcom,

you should be OK. My bevel gears were 7 years old before I made the
modification, and I suspect they were running in emulsion for much of
their life. Certainly before the recent haul out, there was no oil left
at all in the housing when I took the thruster apart. I am just amazed
that this unit was designed with a single lip seal and such a poor seal
to shaft contact surface. I believe that Amel use a Schleiper made unit
on the 54. At least the demo I had a look at when they first came out
was fitted with one.

By the way, when I had the stainless sleeve made for the shaft, I had
the outer end tapered. This makes it easier for the seal to slide onto
the shaft without popping the spring off it's inner face. I bet there
are quite a few Amels out there with the spring dislodged. It's so easy
to do.

Good luck

Ian SM 414 Crusader

Hi Erick and all who helped with this problem,

I read your post two days after I finally cured the problem. Our cases are very similar. Having decided to have one final go at finding the cause, I removed the impeller pump completely from the genset. Removing the end cover revealed a perfect set of impeller blades. I had done this before and naturally assumed that the impeller was good, especially as I had only recently changed it. I decided however to extract the impeller and check the inlet and outlet holes for any debris. This revealed the root of the problem, which in many ways resembled yours.

There was a considerable build up of corrosion part way around the inside corner of the impeller housing. Instead of a neat right angle between the inner face of the housing and the circular face that the tips of the blades squeeze against, about one third of the circumference was raised and had dog eared the blades as they rotated over this rough area on the inner side of the blades only. Not enough to stop the pump working when the boat was stationary, but enough for water not to be drawn up to the pump after movement on the boat through the water had siphoned the water level below the sea chest pipe elbow.

Having put vinegar and my best toothbrush to work on the corrosion and changed the impeller, I am very happy to report that even during an 8 kt sail in moderate seas, the generator started and kept running without problem. Yee Ha!

What I have not yet been able to do is to see whether water is still drawn back down the inlet pipe when the boat is sailing now that the impeller blades fit the housing properly. It was too rough to safely remove my folding cycle from it's stowage in front of the sea chest, but I shall endeavour to do so in the next few days. If this still is the case, then I shall try and find a non return valve and fit it in the inlet pipe to the impeller. I don't believe that these impellers were deisgned to run dry whilst drawing water to the pump, and anything that prevents this must improve their life.

Problem solved. Many thanks to all of you that went to the trouble to help out. Moral of the story? Never assume anything!

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader


On 05/07/2010 19:24, G D wrote

Hi Richard,
thanks so much will do exactly so (in 2 months when back to the boat...)




________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, July 25, 2010 6:56:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] We have just bought our Santorin 1992 - few questions...

 
Hi there should be a number on the prop that is the diameter and pitch Send it
To Amel or post it. At 2400 in flat water and a clean bottom make better then 7
kts. Do you have an alternator on the prop a
Shaft or is there a brake? What color is the transmission oil? Does it smell
burned?

Regarding the speed censor get a powerful light on a dark night. Place it inside
the boat lighting the area of the censor go outside and see if you can see
light. You may have to remove the bottom Paint in the area cracks will show up
looking like a spider web. If you see the fix it. Good luck

Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 22, 2010, at 17:27, Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Hi,
We have just bought our Santorin 1992 hull #69 last week and we have put her on

dry for couple of months. We have few questions on issues we have observed and

wanted to have some good advice from Amel owners; sorry for asking all this at

once but it will be understood if will get answers in pieces…:
1. When hauled out, unfortunately the crane operator chose to ignore our
directions and put the strip over the sonic speed sensor – not sure if any
damage but seem like the cover has smashed a bit in a way it created some space

between the sensor and the cover –

a. can water come in the boat from there when relaunching?
b. should the gap created be filled with polyester?
2. We have also observed a vertical scratch on the ‘wing’ holding the
rudder just below the lower spindle going down – I wouldn’t spend time to ask
this unless the scratch is just parallel to copper line which was revealed, is

there a specific sensitivity in this area? Or just a scratch to be covered with

polyester?
3. The engine is the original and seems to be ok, never overhauled with
approx 2,500hrs, the only thing it appears to be a bit lazy with speed of 5
knots in flat see (2,900-3,000 rpm).

a. what is the recommended highest rpm for cruising?
b. will change of prop or pitch will lead to better result (it looks like the
prop is designed for more power rather than speed)?
4. To clean the bilge area, any problem to use the chemicals for this
purpose?
5. I would like to add an air condition for the next summer – 16btu for aft
and main cabin sounds ok?
6. The false teak deck needs attention – which paint? What method?
7. Should the iron keel be sand blasted after sometime? Our iron piece
doesn’t look smooth and it might time for it – any tips?
8. Last question – any recommendation for good boat yard Greece to perform
repairs?

Otherwise we very happy with our Santorin.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi again that motor with the right prop will run 24/7 at 2000-2200 pushing her Long at 6 kts or better depending on prop sea And your bottom being clean.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 24, 2010, at 14:22, Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Thanks for the info Richard, Ric and Deborah,

As per the engine / prop - anymore feedbacks as well as any experience with
modifiation of propeller? as well, what is the recommended cruising RPM for such
engine original (Perkins)

Aircondition???

As per the sensor - it doesn't look broken, only that the housing is a bit
deformed could water come in? can i just fill around?

As per the side in Greece - we are East currently.

The deep scratch - will take this as deep scrath to be patched.

The keel - I take this as to only patch if at all, did not see serious rust.

Thanks, Belit

________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, July 24, 2010 2:16:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: We have just bought our Santorin 1992 - few questions...


Hi regarding the speed censor what ever side he broke needs to be repaired
before going in. It is suggest you remove and clean the area block off out side
fill the hole with barrier type epoxie drill a new hole at the same angle to be
sure the two censors are in alining properly. Do not take any short cuts with
this fix. If you are not comfortable ask Amel for send a man to do it and have
him bring the parts along.

You will find info on this site regarding painting the decks.

The copper and the crack w/o see it can't help you.

Regarding the keal it is cover with gelcoat type material if you blast it away
read the West Systems web site for the fix which is 15 coats of barrier coat to.
Keep it from leaking and rusting. Better you clean it up and better assess the
problem. If you need to do some work sand clean and coat with epoxy and barrier
coat right away do not let light rust start or it will not bond

Good luck And while it is out and dry check for blister and fix them per West
SYS N
Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 23, 2010, at 13:44, "deborah" <woodsdeborah_56@...> wrote:

Hi

Is it East coast of Greece or West? We have a few contacts in the West if this
would be of any help


Regards

Deb and John
Orion1 (Maramu)

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Hi,
We have just bought our Santorin 1992 hull #69 last week and we have put her

on

dry for couple of months. We have few questions on issues we have observed

and

wanted to have some good advice from Amel owners; sorry for asking all this

at

once but it will be understood if will get answers in pieces…:
1.     When hauled out, unfortunately the crane operator chose to ignore

our

directions and put the strip over the sonic speed sensor â€" not sure if any

damage but seem like the cover has smashed a bit in a way it created some

space

between the sensor and the cover â€"

a. can water come in the boat from there when relaunching?
b. should the gap created be filled with polyester?
2.     We have also observed a vertical scratch on the ‘wing’

holding the

rudder just below the lower spindle going down â€" I wouldn’t spend time to

ask o

this unless the scratch is just parallel to copper line which was revealed,

is

there a specific sensitivity in this area? Or just a scratch to be covered

with

polyester?
3.     The engine is the original and seems to be ok, never overhauled

with

approx 2,500hrs, the only thing it appears to be a bit lazy with speed of 5
knots in flat see (2,900-3,000 rpm).

a. what is the recommended highest rpm for cruising?
b. will change of prop or pitch will lead to better result (it looks like the

prop is designed for more power rather than speed)?
4.     To clean the bilge area, any problem to use the chemicals for

this

purpose?
5.     I would like to add an air condition for the next summer â€"

16btu for aft

and main cabin sounds ok?
6.     The false teak deck needs attention â€" which paint? What

method?

7.     Should the iron keel be sand blasted after sometime? Our iron

piece

doesn’t look smooth and it might time for it â€" any tips?
8.     Last question â€" any recommendation for good boat yard Greece to

perform

repairs?
Â
Otherwise we very happy with our Santorin.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi there should be a number on the prop that is the diameter and pitch Send it To Amel or post it. At 2400 in flat water and a clean bottom make better then 7 kts. Do you have an alternator on the prop a
Shaft or is there a brake? What color is the transmission oil? Does it smell burned?

Regarding the speed censor get a powerful light on a dark night. Place it inside the boat lighting the area of the censor go outside and see if you can see light. You may have to remove the bottom Paint in the area cracks will show up looking like a spider web. If you see the fix it. Good luck
Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 22, 2010, at 17:27, Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Hi,
We have just bought our Santorin 1992 hull #69 last week and we have put her on
dry for couple of months. We have few questions on issues we have observed and
wanted to have some good advice from Amel owners; sorry for asking all this at
once but it will be understood if will get answers in pieces…:
1. When hauled out, unfortunately the crane operator chose to ignore our
directions and put the strip over the sonic speed sensor – not sure if any
damage but seem like the cover has smashed a bit in a way it created some space
between the sensor and the cover –

a. can water come in the boat from there when relaunching?
b. should the gap created be filled with polyester?
2. We have also observed a vertical scratch on the ‘wing’ holding the
rudder just below the lower spindle going down – I wouldn’t spend time to ask
this unless the scratch is just parallel to copper line which was revealed, is
there a specific sensitivity in this area? Or just a scratch to be covered with
polyester?
3. The engine is the original and seems to be ok, never overhauled with
approx 2,500hrs, the only thing it appears to be a bit lazy with speed of 5
knots in flat see (2,900-3,000 rpm).

a. what is the recommended highest rpm for cruising?
b. will change of prop or pitch will lead to better result (it looks like the
prop is designed for more power rather than speed)?
4. To clean the bilge area, any problem to use the chemicals for this
purpose?
5. I would like to add an air condition for the next summer – 16btu for aft
and main cabin sounds ok?
6. The false teak deck needs attention – which paint? What method?
7. Should the iron keel be sand blasted after sometime? Our iron piece
doesn’t look smooth and it might time for it – any tips?
8. Last question – any recommendation for good boat yard Greece to perform
repairs?

Otherwise we very happy with our Santorin.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]