Hi, all,
New ? about the watermaker. While underway, the pressure as read on the guage in the galley is fluctuating wildly. Each time it drops (sometimes all the way to zero) it belches a few bubbles in the glass vial on the control panel, then comes back toward normal. When at anchor it doesn't do this at all. Once pressure stabilizes and bubbles stop after a few minutes, it stays at 60 for 2hr+ without fluctuating at all. Water still tastes good and still making 60 l/hr.

I've never noticed these wild fluctuations in pressure while underway before now, and wonder what could be causing it, whether it's damaging to the pump or membranes, etc. There is no air in the prefilter assembly so I don't think it's sucking air when heeled over (in fact, it does this whether heeled to port or starbord).

Thanks for any suggestions/advice/ideas.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Mark,
I spent thousands of $ on my Volvo looking for the cause of low rpm and black smoke (not dramatic smoke, but always more on the side of the boat behind the exhaust than most boats out there).  It never lost a drop of oil or coolant and purred along nicely at up to 22-2400rpm.  My boat had to have the Turbo replaced once after 4-5 years of service, then again when I bought it after another 5 years of service.  I was told that it had failed because of carbon buildup, which I understand can be due to not running the engine hard enough (ie unable to run at adequate rpm?) or running in overloaded condition (ie overpropped).  New Turbo, injectors & injector pump removed and sent to Volvo for testing, cleaned fuel tank & hoses, new timing belt, checked cylinder pressures, checked exhaust components and air intake....everything any of several mechanics suggested could be the cause.  Finally had to look at the prop.  (It was the prop supplied with the boat
by Amel, so I had resisted looking at that as the cause).  Got the serial number off the prop and called AutoProp folks who said it was the prop recommended for the SM with 100HP Yanmar, not my 78HP Volvo.  Still skeptical, I had the spare fixed prop (also too big diameter and  too heavily pitched according to the prop shop in Annapolis) resized & repitched to the recommendations of the prop shop).  The Volvo ran right up to the recommended 3000rpm and smoke cleared up.  I lived with that for a season and then bought a new MaxProp and pitched it according to the same recommendations.  It also worked great on the Volvo giving good "mileage" and 3000 rpm (so I could "burn off" carbon in the Turbo and exhaust system), and the soot on the side of the boat cleared up.  For the last year I've run it at ~2K rpm when cruising, but run it up to 28-2900rpm for 10-12 min every few hours.  The turbo still looks like new.
 
Amel has said all along that they put the same AutoProp on the SM whether it has 78 HP Volvo or 100HP Yanmar (which has 33% more HP) and stand by that recommendation for the SM.
 
After a year of running the Volvo with the new props, without problems, it started belching smoke and losing oil and coolant, and lost rpm severely.  Probably a cracked head or block, but I decided to repower with a Yanmar rather than spend any more money on the Volvo.
 
Moral of this story: Do your own prop investigation.  First make sure it is clean and the blades rotate freely on the hub (assuming it's and AutoProp). Get the numbers off the prop and find out how it's pitched, then compare that with what is recommended by a good prop shop and what's recommended by Autoprop.  I wouldn't be surprised, based on my experience alone, that you are overpropped as well.  Your problem sounds like exactly what I was dealing with, and I spent a ton of money chasing an elusive cause because I believed that Amel had propped the boat appropriately.  It was only after several mechanics had checked it out and said they didn't think there was anything wrong with the engine that I made myself look at the prop.
 
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Danny,

Thanks for the info. We had the injectors replaced several months ago but that didn't appear to resolve the exhaust problem. Joel Potter confirmed we should be getting the Yanmar-rated max 3800 RPM, which the boat has never been capable of since we have had it. We plan to continue working with our tech to hunt the RPM problem down, hoping it is connected with the exhaust.

thanks, Mark

Tom, Those caps are available from Amel, just bought a bag of them a few
months ago.I also get water in the locker, I assumed it was the seal leaking
while heeled over and water washing the deck. Pat SM 123

Amel sold me a bag of these caps.

I believe the water that enters that locker washes under the gasket of the
hatch.

There is a drain in the bottom of the locker that just dumps the water into
my engine room. I fitted a ball valve to the drain hole and drain from the
engine room into a bucket. I also had a grid of 2x4 inch wood on the bottom
of the locker. Now I just had 2 fuel tanks made to fit the locker.

The liferaft is now in the port cockpit locker.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011 5:43 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Water in liferaft locker





Wanted to poll the experts. I've got a bit of water in the liferaft locker
that's coming in from the genoa car track holes. My boat is missing some of
these caps and I'm not sure the caps I have are watertight. Does Amel have
these or is there a different source ? In the event they can't be procured,
would love to hear other solutions.

Thanks,

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422

Wanted to poll the experts. I've got a bit of water in the liferaft locker that's coming in from the genoa car track holes. My boat is missing some of these caps and I'm not sure the caps I have are watertight. Does Amel have these or is there a different source ? In the event they can't be procured, would love to hear other solutions.

Thanks,

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422

Yanmar also supplies the impeller extractor for their new model impellers
with the threaded core.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Anne and John Hollamby
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011 5:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Anchor chain bitter end and extracting impellor.





The end of the chain should be secured with a strong line which goes through
the last link and reaches up to the gypsy so that in an emergency it is
possible to cut the line and get away. I have propshaft anodes at the other
end of the chain to act as sacrificials and hopefully waste away instead of
the galvanising on the chain.

The impellor on the sea water pump on the Yanmar is hard to remove and
replace.These impellors have a short threaded section on one end of the core
and Volvo sell a special bolt which screws into that thread. The special
bolt has an open core which is threaded to take a smaller bolt which pushes
onto the drive shaft and the impellor is pushed out. This device costs four
euros in Malta and is highly recommended. I was lucky as by chance the
impellor fitted two years ago had the threaded end out. To fit the new
impellor I compress the vanes with a cable tier and spray them and the pump
with a lot of silicon and the tier slides off as the impellor slides in.

Regards, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319

Hi, Richard,
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you.  Still not sure the new Yanmar installation is trouble free yet.
 
There were a few issues that should have been anticipated, but weren't.  I have some pics that I'd be happy to send you.  Email me at karkauai at yahoo dot com.  If you'd like to talk, call me on my cell phone 828 234 6819 (EDT)  I'll be stateside until May 6, then on the boat for 3 wks, then home for the H season.
 
How's your project coming...have you started yet?
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Hi, Gary,
I do have a list of parts from the rigger who did my standing rigging last year.  It's not what I would have liked, but may be of some help to you.  I also have a drawing of the forestay turnbuckle that he had machined for the bottom end of the forestay, which may be of some help.
 
If you'd like me to send you what I have, email me at karkauai at yahoo dot com.
 
Please say hi to Bob at Clarke's Court Bay Marina if you're still there.  Dawn and I spent several weeks there last year, and will stay there for a few days this year before we go to Trinidad for the H season.
 
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Hi Everyone,
    From the recent posts I see that the anchor locker drainage, and water ingress has been of great interest.
    It appears that in Santorins, Maramu and SM's the anchor locker drains into the grey water "tank" past, or via the forward shower tray. A valve at the bottom of the bow thruster compartment allows the anchor locker to be isolated. A further valve under the floor at the aft end of the forward watertight door allows the "front end" to be isolated. With judicious selection of these valves, and the insertion of a dock water hose into the shower tray the various hoses can be back flushed/washed through, and debris in the seacock cleared. (some boats have a check valve on the seacock - watch out for this)
   After a few false starts, we have adopted the following system - on annual haulout the anchor and chain are run out onto the hardstand, The anchor locker is then left open, and after a few days is dry and all the mud, sand, debris etc. can be vacuumed out. (if it's a short haulout a hair dryer into the locker for a while works wonders). This gets rid of 80% of the "stuff" that stops the locker from draining.
   Next, in both our shower trays exit holes  we have installed a small cylindrical stainless  tube, closed at one end and liberally drilled with 2.5mm holes. This collects the hair etc from the shower trays which is usually the other 20% that prevents the locker draining.
   Finally, in the tropics, there is a lot of condensation in the locker, which can, (and eventually will ) cause deterioration of the veneer on the fwd bulkhead - leaving he access hatch "cracked" open when not under way ( just a small gap at the top) allows ventilation and the problem goes away.
   On long passages, we blocked the anchor hawsepipe with a rag/sponge. This reduced the water into the locker from "bows under water".
   Finally, we have 3m of nylon anchor rode spliced onto the bitter end of our chain ( we have 100m of 10mm chain), should we ever  need to "cut and run"
   Since adopting these we have had no recurrence of the blocked drain or muddy shower tray symptoms.
   Hope this helps

Mike & Chris
SN 027
Phuket

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...> wrote:

Craig,

sorry, still in Mongolia till mid April. If you delay, I'll be there around 20April.

=======================
Thanks, Attilio, but we head back the 16th. I "googled" Ulan Bator - it looks like quite the place - good luck with your project. Hugs to Maria.
Ciao, Craig and Katherine

The end of the chain should be secured with a strong line which goes through the last link and reaches up to the gypsy so that in an emergency it is possible to cut the line and get away. I have propshaft anodes at the other end of the chain to act as sacrificials and hopefully waste away instead of the galvanising on the chain.

The impellor on the sea water pump on the Yanmar is hard to remove and replace.These impellors have a short threaded section on one end of the core and Volvo sell a special bolt which screws into that thread. The special bolt has an open core which is threaded to take a smaller bolt which pushes onto the drive shaft and the impellor is pushed out. This device costs four euros in Malta and is highly recommended. I was lucky as by chance the impellor fitted two years ago had the threaded end out. To fit the new impellor I compress the vanes with a cable tier and spray them and the pump with a lot of silicon and the tier slides off as the impellor slides in.

Regards, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM319

I asked the same question to the shipwright that did the work. He checked it out
and said it was solid glass and strong enough. He also fitted this plastic
sheeting in the bottom that is about an inch high with heaps of holes in it, it
is very light but strong,  it keeps the chain of the floor. As far as weight
goes where do you keep the spare anchors and chain. I see I said the port locker
but I meant the starboard side under the gypsy. 




________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, 6 April, 2011 11:26:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Draining of water from chain locker

 
Hi a good idea however Amel designed their system to keep all that weight lower
in the hull. Second one has to wonder if those floors in the lockers are
designed to carry that weight when in rough seas. A good idea none the less

Smooth sailing and fair winds.

Regards
Richard Piller Sm 209

Yacht Brokerage Service above and beyond the expected"

Walczak Yacht Brokerage Service LLC
2 Compromise St
Annapolis, MD 21401

Cell 603 767 5330
Office
Fax

www.Walczakyacht.com

On Apr 5, 2011, at 19:52, Conn Williamson <connwilliamson@...> wrote:

Hi all, on the chain locker, I had to replace the timber under the windlass and

also in the decklocker dividers due to water ingress from windlass bolts ect.
Well I diddn't like that little chain locker and neither did my first mate as
she was the one that had to go down below to push the chain away from the tube

when it stacked up.
As you all will know this also means removing the v berth bedding and any other

junk that is in there just to access it, which also involved a lot of

swearing.

So what I have had done is removed and blocked off the chain pipe and hole and

use the port side deep locker for the chain. It easily holds 80 meters of chain

and my spare anchor.
I can hose the chain off with fresh water or salt to clean it out, there is no

pipe going through the locker, and I don't have to worry about that V berth
locker filling with water, mud ect as it is now watertight. and there are no
more V berth blues.

Cheers...Conn Williamson

Mango #28

________________________________
From: Ric <ric@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, 6 April, 2011 5:16:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Draining of water from chain locker


On my SN24 1990 santorin there is a valve for the anchor chain locker
drain in bow thruster locker. This drain is easily plugged with mud,
plus a secondary point (valve) where the shower drain connects at a
tee then to the bilge. There wasnt a strainer to remove hair, thereby
causing the anchor locker to fill. Took many wet bunks, tons of water
under port salon settee. To get it sorted.

Ric Gottschalk
Bali Hai SN24

On Apr 5, 2011, at 10:01 AM, "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Belit,
I also have a '92 Santorin.

The chain locker drain hose is on the port side and runs to the
forward side of the Shower drain pan in the forward head. It has no
valve.

Water runs from the chain locker, into the shower pan, then out the
shower pan aft to the grey water sump. There is a valve under the
dinette seat that you would close in an emergency were the forward
end of the boat to become flooded and you were closing it off with
the water tight door.

If yours is not draining well, that is, if water is accumulating in
the chain locker, you can easily back-flush with a water hose from
the shower pan. Do that several times, letting any debris run back
into the shower pan. (And while you're at it, you can also flush out
the hose that goes aft into the grey water sump.)

Btw, my forward deck locker floor also rotted out (port side). After
I fixed it I made an open slatted louver that I use in place of the
solid one into the chain locker (on the starboard side of the
forward bulkhead). This allows fresh air into the chain locker to
prevent future rotting. When we make passages I put the solid one
back in place to keep the forward bulkhead water-tight. (Well,
except for the drain hose that runs into the shower pan - your bilge
pump would come on and alert you to the fact that you were taking
water into the chain locker or the deck lockers.)

Craig Briggs SN#68 "Sangaris" in Greece

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "belitbh" <belitbh@...> wrote:

Thanks Kent and Jim,

Forgot to mention that actually have reached the locker after

repairing the floor of the right forward locker as the wood was
exposed under the epoxy...(was humid and the spare anchor was
sitting there directly on the floor and sharp steel + heavy whether
x salty water + epoxy cover = cracks and rot apparently), however,
did not understand fully, assuming the valve is in the same place
(my is Santorin) when open the valve it goes directly to the sea
unlike when it closed than goes to the bilge?

if not so, where the water supposed to go when the valve is closed?

Belit

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi a good idea however Amel designed their system to keep all that weight lower in the hull. Second one has to wonder if those floors in the lockers are designed to carry that weight when in rough seas. A good idea none the less
Smooth sailing and fair winds.

Regards
Richard Piller Sm 209

Yacht Brokerage Service above and beyond the expected"

Walczak Yacht Brokerage Service LLC
2 Compromise St
Annapolis, MD 21401

Cell 603 767 5330
Office
Fax

www.Walczakyacht.com

On Apr 5, 2011, at 19:52, Conn Williamson <connwilliamson@...> wrote:

Hi all, on the chain locker, I had to replace the timber under the windlass and
also in the decklocker dividers due to water ingress from windlass bolts ect.
Well I diddn't like that little chain locker and neither did my first mate as
she was the one that had to go down below to push the chain away from the tube
when it stacked up.
As you all will know this also means removing the v berth bedding and any other
junk that is in there just to access it, which also involved a lot of swearing.

So what I have had done is removed and blocked off the chain pipe and hole and
use the port side deep locker for the chain. It easily holds 80 meters of chain
and my spare anchor.
I can hose the chain off with fresh water or salt to clean it out, there is no
pipe going through the locker, and I don't have to worry about that V berth
locker filling with water, mud ect as it is now watertight. and there are no
more V berth blues.

Cheers...Conn Williamson

Mango #28

________________________________
From: Ric <ric@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, 6 April, 2011 5:16:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Draining of water from chain locker


On my SN24 1990 santorin there is a valve for the anchor chain locker
drain in bow thruster locker. This drain is easily plugged with mud,
plus a secondary point (valve) where the shower drain connects at a
tee then to the bilge. There wasnt a strainer to remove hair, thereby
causing the anchor locker to fill. Took many wet bunks, tons of water
under port salon settee. To get it sorted.

Ric Gottschalk
Bali Hai SN24

On Apr 5, 2011, at 10:01 AM, "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Belit,
I also have a '92 Santorin.

The chain locker drain hose is on the port side and runs to the
forward side of the Shower drain pan in the forward head. It has no
valve.

Water runs from the chain locker, into the shower pan, then out the
shower pan aft to the grey water sump. There is a valve under the
dinette seat that you would close in an emergency were the forward
end of the boat to become flooded and you were closing it off with
the water tight door.

If yours is not draining well, that is, if water is accumulating in
the chain locker, you can easily back-flush with a water hose from
the shower pan. Do that several times, letting any debris run back
into the shower pan. (And while you're at it, you can also flush out
the hose that goes aft into the grey water sump.)

Btw, my forward deck locker floor also rotted out (port side). After
I fixed it I made an open slatted louver that I use in place of the
solid one into the chain locker (on the starboard side of the
forward bulkhead). This allows fresh air into the chain locker to
prevent future rotting. When we make passages I put the solid one
back in place to keep the forward bulkhead water-tight. (Well,
except for the drain hose that runs into the shower pan - your bilge
pump would come on and alert you to the fact that you were taking
water into the chain locker or the deck lockers.)

Craig Briggs SN#68 "Sangaris" in Greece

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "belitbh" <belitbh@...> wrote:

Thanks Kent and Jim,

Forgot to mention that actually have reached the locker after

repairing the floor of the right forward locker as the wood was
exposed under the epoxy...(was humid and the spare anchor was
sitting there directly on the floor and sharp steel + heavy whether
x salty water + epoxy cover = cracks and rot apparently), however,
did not understand fully, assuming the valve is in the same place
(my is Santorin) when open the valve it goes directly to the sea
unlike when it closed than goes to the bilge?

if not so, where the water supposed to go when the valve is closed?

Belit

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi all, on the chain locker, I had to replace the timber under the windlass and
also in the decklocker dividers due to water ingress from windlass bolts ect.
Well I diddn't like that little chain locker and neither did my first mate as
she was the one that had to go down below to push the chain away from the tube
when it stacked up.
As you all will know this also means removing the v berth bedding and any other
junk that is in there just to access it, which also involved a lot of swearing.

So what I have had done is removed and blocked off the chain pipe and hole and
use the port side deep locker for the chain. It easily holds 80 meters of chain
and my spare anchor.
I can hose the chain off with fresh water or salt to clean it out, there is no
pipe going through the locker, and I don't have to worry about that V berth
locker filling with water, mud ect as it is now watertight. and there are no
more V berth blues.

Cheers...Conn Williamson

Mango #28 




________________________________
From: Ric <ric@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, 6 April, 2011 5:16:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Draining of water from chain locker

 
On my SN24 1990 santorin there is a valve for the anchor chain locker
drain in bow thruster locker. This drain is easily plugged with mud,
plus a secondary point (valve) where the shower drain connects at a
tee then to the bilge. There wasnt a strainer to remove hair, thereby
causing the anchor locker to fill. Took many wet bunks, tons of water
under port salon settee. To get it sorted.

Ric Gottschalk
Bali Hai SN24

On Apr 5, 2011, at 10:01 AM, "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Belit,
I also have a '92 Santorin.

The chain locker drain hose is on the port side and runs to the
forward side of the Shower drain pan in the forward head. It has no
valve.

Water runs from the chain locker, into the shower pan, then out the
shower pan aft to the grey water sump. There is a valve under the
dinette seat that you would close in an emergency were the forward
end of the boat to become flooded and you were closing it off with
the water tight door.

If yours is not draining well, that is, if water is accumulating in
the chain locker, you can easily back-flush with a water hose from
the shower pan. Do that several times, letting any debris run back
into the shower pan. (And while you're at it, you can also flush out
the hose that goes aft into the grey water sump.)

Btw, my forward deck locker floor also rotted out (port side). After
I fixed it I made an open slatted louver that I use in place of the
solid one into the chain locker (on the starboard side of the
forward bulkhead). This allows fresh air into the chain locker to
prevent future rotting. When we make passages I put the solid one
back in place to keep the forward bulkhead water-tight. (Well,
except for the drain hose that runs into the shower pan - your bilge
pump would come on and alert you to the fact that you were taking
water into the chain locker or the deck lockers.)

Craig Briggs SN#68 "Sangaris" in Greece

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "belitbh" <belitbh@...> wrote:

Thanks Kent and Jim,

Forgot to mention that actually have reached the locker after

repairing the floor of the right forward locker as the wood was
exposed under the epoxy...(was humid and the spare anchor was
sitting there directly on the floor and sharp steel + heavy whether
x salty water + epoxy cover = cracks and rot apparently), however,
did not understand fully, assuming the valve is in the same place
(my is Santorin) when open the valve it goes directly to the sea
unlike when it closed than goes to the bilge?

if not so, where the water supposed to go when the valve is closed?

Belit

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thank you so very much fofr this.
Regards
Barb

Boat in tortola, me annapolis

Ric Gottschalk
Bali Hai SN24

On Apr 5, 2011, at 4:45 PM, karkauai@... wrote:

Ugh, guess I can consider myself lucky. Where are you these days, Ric?
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry Smartphone provided by Alltel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ugh, guess I can consider myself lucky. Where are you these days, Ric?
Kent
SM243
KRISTY
Sent from my BlackBerry Smartphone provided by Alltel

On my SN24 1990 santorin there is a valve for the anchor chain locker
drain in bow thruster locker. This drain is easily plugged with mud,
plus a secondary point (valve) where the shower drain connects at a
tee then to the bilge. There wasnt a strainer to remove hair, thereby
causing the anchor locker to fill. Took many wet bunks, tons of water
under port salon settee. To get it sorted.

Ric Gottschalk
Bali Hai SN24

On Apr 5, 2011, at 10:01 AM, "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Belit,
I also have a '92 Santorin.

The chain locker drain hose is on the port side and runs to the
forward side of the Shower drain pan in the forward head. It has no
valve.

Water runs from the chain locker, into the shower pan, then out the
shower pan aft to the grey water sump. There is a valve under the
dinette seat that you would close in an emergency were the forward
end of the boat to become flooded and you were closing it off with
the water tight door.

If yours is not draining well, that is, if water is accumulating in
the chain locker, you can easily back-flush with a water hose from
the shower pan. Do that several times, letting any debris run back
into the shower pan. (And while you're at it, you can also flush out
the hose that goes aft into the grey water sump.)

Btw, my forward deck locker floor also rotted out (port side). After
I fixed it I made an open slatted louver that I use in place of the
solid one into the chain locker (on the starboard side of the
forward bulkhead). This allows fresh air into the chain locker to
prevent future rotting. When we make passages I put the solid one
back in place to keep the forward bulkhead water-tight. (Well,
except for the drain hose that runs into the shower pan - your bilge
pump would come on and alert you to the fact that you were taking
water into the chain locker or the deck lockers.)

Craig Briggs SN#68 "Sangaris" in Greece

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "belitbh" <belitbh@...> wrote:

Thanks Kent and Jim,

Forgot to mention that actually have reached the locker after

repairing the floor of the right forward locker as the wood was
exposed under the epoxy...(was humid and the spare anchor was
sitting there directly on the floor and sharp steel + heavy whether
x salty water + epoxy cover = cracks and rot apparently), however,
did not understand fully, assuming the valve is in the same place
(my is Santorin) when open the valve it goes directly to the sea
unlike when it closed than goes to the bilge?

if not so, where the water supposed to go when the valve is closed?

Belit

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

No non mi é arrivata,puoi riprovare? Grazie molte