Serge, Thanks for your reply. I could not understand why the engine driven
alt. would damage the PSA, and according to you it will not.If I understand
correctly , when I turn the key down below that will excite the PSA, once
excited it will remain so without further amperage from an external source .
So then if I turn the key off to the PSA it will continue to charge until the
shaft stops rotating, is that correct ? Thanks, Pat SM 123

This question of switch for the prop shaft alternator (PSA) is rather simple.
 
In order to generate current, not only does the PSA require turning but the rotor initially requires 2 to 5 amp of 12v to create the magnetic field. Once the alternator is running, if, as it should,  a small diode trio is installed in the PSA, then the PSA generates this energy and does not draw on the batteries to supply current to the rotor. When the diode trio operates the small red lamp will extinguish since the voltage on both side of the lamp is the same. This also usually indicates the PSA is producing current. However the main diodes could be open or otherwise damaged, and if so, no energy would be sent to the batteries. For this purpose another light or better, a amp meter is installed.
 
There is no need to energise the PSA when the motor is running, because, there is usually one or more often two alternators running from the motor and if there was any current produced by the PSA (which i doubt since the motor alternator should be running at a higher speed) it would also draw on the power directed to the propeller, and that is inefficient.
 
The switch shows the refinement of the yachtbuilder in not hampering the efficiency of the motor.
 
As to having multiple sources of energy charging the batteries, there is no other inconvenience since all would be equipped with diodes which not only serve as protection of the circuit such as in voltaic panels, but in alternators, the 6 large diodes serve as rectifier of the AC produced by the alternator and as blocking diodes for the DC current originating from the batteries or any other source.
 
If the batteries are fully charged the regulator on or in the alternator (s) including that of the PSA will reduce the current produced by the rotor to a nominal amount, usually 4 to 5 amp and neither the batteries nor other normally protected component should be damaged!
 
BTW, if the motor only alternator fails while motoring, it would be verry appropriate after deconnecting it from the circuit, to use the PSA as the alternate source of current...
 
I am glad to have a PSA for offshore voyages. If i had a SM i would seriously consider the installation of a hydro propelled alternator: it is a simple technology, it work at all times and under almost all conditions if the boat is moving. I know i do not have this problem with my Mango, but i am not shure that on a SM, i would use any hydro propelled alternator with its propeller trailing the boat in very strong winds  or heavy following seas? May-be someone in the group knows better!
 
Serge, V Opéra, Mango #51
 
 
Note- FOR SALE
LAETITIA II
info: www.columbia37.com

 Mer, 8.9.10, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> a écrit :


De : Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
Objet : Re: [Amel] Recharging Redundancy
À : "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: mercredi 8 septembre 2010 12 h 06


 



Pat you should NOT be able to stat the engine when the alternator is turned on one and two if you can if there is no one way diode in the line you can stand a good chance of
Blowing the alternators.

When you hook it back up be sure there is an exciter wire to the alternator to get it to charge. Remember you need 1500 rpm at the pulley to charge.
Call if you have questions I'm in Annapolis.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Sep 8, 2010, at 8:39, sailw32@... wrote:

I am having my shaft driven alternator rebuilt this week and hope to have
it reinstalled this weekend.In the four years I' ve owned my SM it has never
had any output and I have meant to get this working for some time. Can
someone confirm that running the engine while the shaft alternator is engaged
will damage the alternator ? Thanks, Pat SM 123


In a message dated 8/24/2010 10:23:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sbmesasailor@... writes:

I hope this has not been covered in a previous post as I have only started
monitoring this group. I have a 1982 Maramu with an alternator running off
the free-wheeling propeller shaft. I have also installed an Air Breeze wind
generator as well as 180 watts solar panels. The boat came with an
ignition cut-off switch to prevent starting the engine while the prop shaft
alternator was engaged as I assume the charge from the engine-run alternator will
fry the shaft-run alternator. Does anyone know if the wind generator
and/or the solar panels should be similarly isolated from frying this
alternator?

Thanks
Dennis & Virginia Johns
sv Libertad

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

LOVE TO SEE THE NEW AMEL. PLEASE SEND PICTURES.

THANK YOU,

TRUDY RAHMIG

I don't think running the engine at the same time as the shaft alternator, or
having any other charging system connected will damage anything. I have turned
on my shaft alternator at the same time as my engine with no problem. When I
did, the amp-meter on the shaft alternator went to zero, presumably because the
engine alternator and regulator were set to a higher voltage, and the shaft
alternator regulator sensed this and shut off. It may be a different story for
different brands of alternators or regulators, but I doubt it. I have run a
number of twin engine boats with both engine alternators charging the same
battery banks, which is essentially the same, again no problem.


Eric Maramu 105




________________________________
From: "sailw32@..." <sailw32@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 5:39:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Recharging Redundancy

 
I am having my shaft driven alternator rebuilt this week and hope to have
it reinstalled this weekend.In the four years I' ve owned my SM it has never
had any output and I have meant to get this working for some time. Can
someone confirm that running the engine while the shaft alternator is engaged
will damage the alternator ? Thanks, Pat SM 123


In a message dated 8/24/2010 10:23:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sbmesasailor@... writes:

I hope this has not been covered in a previous post as I have only started
monitoring this group. I have a 1982 Maramu with an alternator running off
the free-wheeling propeller shaft. I have also installed an Air Breeze wind
generator as well as 180 watts solar panels. The boat came with an
ignition cut-off switch to prevent starting the engine while the prop shaft
alternator was engaged as I assume the charge from the engine-run alternator
will

fry the shaft-run alternator. Does anyone know if the wind generator
and/or the solar panels should be similarly isolated from frying this
alternator?

Thanks
Dennis & Virginia Johns
sv Libertad






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Pat you should NOT be able to stat the engine when the alternator is turned on one and two if you can if there is no one way diode in the line you can stand a good chance of
Blowing the alternators.

When you hook it back up be sure there is an exciter wire to the alternator to get it to charge. Remember you need 1500 rpm at the pulley to charge.
Call if you have questions I'm in Annapolis.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Sep 8, 2010, at 8:39, sailw32@... wrote:

I am having my shaft driven alternator rebuilt this week and hope to have
it reinstalled this weekend.In the four years I' ve owned my SM it has never
had any output and I have meant to get this working for some time. Can
someone confirm that running the engine while the shaft alternator is engaged
will damage the alternator ? Thanks, Pat SM 123


In a message dated 8/24/2010 10:23:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sbmesasailor@... writes:

I hope this has not been covered in a previous post as I have only started
monitoring this group. I have a 1982 Maramu with an alternator running off
the free-wheeling propeller shaft. I have also installed an Air Breeze wind
generator as well as 180 watts solar panels. The boat came with an
ignition cut-off switch to prevent starting the engine while the prop shaft
alternator was engaged as I assume the charge from the engine-run alternator will
fry the shaft-run alternator. Does anyone know if the wind generator
and/or the solar panels should be similarly isolated from frying this
alternator?

Thanks
Dennis & Virginia Johns
sv Libertad

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am having my shaft driven alternator rebuilt this week and hope to have
it reinstalled this weekend.In the four years I' ve owned my SM it has never
had any output and I have meant to get this working for some time. Can
someone confirm that running the engine while the shaft alternator is engaged
will damage the alternator ? Thanks, Pat SM 123

Hi - just a follow on from previous msg looking for owner of yacht September Tide - we have located and hopefully this is the AMEL for us.
Have a good day-

Hi
We have seen this yacht advertised for sale in Limassol Cyprus - our efforts to contact the broker by email and phone (no English spoken by operator) have met with zero response.
Does anyone know the owner of September Tide so we can arrange to view this boat when we are in Europe next month.
Thanks
Barb Nairne
email surfskis2002@...

Where can you find this Gasket?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of jlm@...
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 2:07 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] The companionway gasket





You can found it on internet for 2euros/meter
jluc
----------------------------------------------------------
Le 04/09/2010 06:48, kimberlite a écrit :

I have a good friend that is an executive at Renault in Paris.

I inquired about the gasket and this was his answer.

Hi Eric.

I'm arfaid news are not good for your window.

I have found the reference 77 00 640 249 you gave me.

It was used on a car called the R5.

Production stopped in 1985.

We don't have parts anymore for the R5...

The window's reference is the 77 04 001 895 or 77 04 001 896.

Both are unavailable and won't be produced again as the car is too old.

I guess Amel has a stockpile of them. I would stock up on one or two now.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of john martin
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:04 PM
To: Amel YAHOO GROUP
Subject: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

There has been alot of discussion about this recently, so I thought I'd
offer some suggestions on how to do it on a SM.

While you are sailing hard on the wind (with both main and jib, but
with no
mizzen up), with the mainsail at almost midship, then turn the wheel hard
over to tack, but don't release the sheet. When the bow crosses the wind,
the jib will back because you didn't release the sheet. Now turn the wheel
all the way in the other direction and secure it. You're done, so now
go get
a beer. It takes less than 10 seconds and only 1 person. The boat will lie
quietly and will move between 1 and 2 knots. The jib sheet or the jib
itself
will lay against the forward shroud but will not rub excessively. If you
feel you are sailing too far away from your intended course, or if you get
too close to a lee shore, just get the boat sailing again on the "new
tack"
and then repeat the process and hove to in the other direction. You can
tweak the sails a little if you want, but I never have seen the need. You
don't have to reef down (any more than you may already be reefed) in order
to hove to; I have hove to with a full main and full jib (even a 150).

On a long trip going to weather, it makes sense to hove to now and then so
the crew can enjoy a meal in relatively gentle motion and also have a
happy
cook. We once hove to for 24 straight hours, when we had 30-35 knots
dead on
the nose, as it just didn't make sense to smash into it. It was better
just
to wait it out until the wind died a little. We also never make
landfall in
the dark, both for safety reasons and because it is always so beautiful to
make landfall at dawn. So we either control boat speed for the last 24
hours
before landfall, to ensure a daylight arrival, or we hove to and wait out
the few hours before dawn.

Best regards,

John Martin

SM 248 "MOON DOG"

__________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
http://www.bing.
<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants

<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT

&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT
<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants

<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT

&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT>
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com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFESRP_Local_Map

sMenu_Resturants_1x1



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I don’t think my Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite has a drain under the
companionway.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of sv Sangaris
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 11:06 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] That pesky companionway gasket!





How 'bout just leaving the gasket off?

At most you've got about a 1/16" gap and if you do get water down there
(most likely while washing the cockpit, not getting pooped in the Southern
Ocean!) it's got a drain hose directly into the gray water sump - that hose
could use a flush now and then, anyway.

Seems the constant rubbing on the companionway plywood is an issue - it
ruined ours, like many other folks who have posted on this topic. Why ask
for a repeat of that?

We changed to lightly tinted plexiglass which is far superior to the plywood
- letting much light below on those days you must close up. We certainly
didn't want a gasket rubbing on plexiglass and have now been 7 years without
the gasket - no problems whatsoever!

So, whether you replace the Plywood or switch to plexi - I'd vote to simply
lose the gasket - period!

Cheers,
Craig Briggs - s/v "Sangaris" Santorin #68, cruising Ionian Greece.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

How 'bout just leaving the gasket off?

At most you've got about a 1/16" gap and if you do get water down there (most likely while washing the cockpit, not getting pooped in the Southern Ocean!) it's got a drain hose directly into the gray water sump - that hose could use a flush now and then, anyway.

Seems the constant rubbing on the companionway plywood is an issue - it ruined ours, like many other folks who have posted on this topic. Why ask for a repeat of that?

We changed to lightly tinted plexiglass which is far superior to the plywood - letting much light below on those days you must close up. We certainly didn't want a gasket rubbing on plexiglass and have now been 7 years without the gasket - no problems whatsoever!

So, whether you replace the Plywood or switch to plexi - I'd vote to simply lose the gasket - period!

Cheers,
Craig Briggs - s/v "Sangaris" Santorin #68, cruising Ionian Greece.

I'll see how these samples I have work first.  If not adequate, will get in touch with a company that can make something for us and get the particulars on how much we need to order and cost before going any farther.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Yes, we would be interested.

BTW, we tried to order the weather strip from Amel several weeks ago. They said they had no more.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2k, #387
Currently Penang, Malaysia

Thanks, Jean. I will check it out. Ian

Hi, Serge,
I've just received some samples of other belt weatherstrippings and am going to try them on KRISTY.  I'll let you all know how it works.
 
I've found some companies that will produce what ever you want them to make, I'm sure at a hefty price unless it's a large order.  Is anyone interested in getting together and having something custom-made that we could make available to all Amel owners?
Kent
SM243

Hi, Jluc,
I've spent hours looking for this product and have found no one who has it or can get it except Amel at the ridiculous price of 80 euros plus shipping.  Can you give us a website where you found it?
Thanks,
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Where can I find it?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of jlm@...
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 2:07 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] The companionway gasket





You can found it on internet for 2euros/meter
jluc
----------------------------------------------------------
Le 04/09/2010 06:48, kimberlite a écrit :

I have a good friend that is an executive at Renault in Paris.

I inquired about the gasket and this was his answer.

Hi Eric.

I'm arfaid news are not good for your window.

I have found the reference 77 00 640 249 you gave me.

It was used on a car called the R5.

Production stopped in 1985.

We don't have parts anymore for the R5...

The window's reference is the 77 04 001 895 or 77 04 001 896.

Both are unavailable and won't be produced again as the car is too old.

I guess Amel has a stockpile of them. I would stock up on one or two now.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of john martin
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:04 PM
To: Amel YAHOO GROUP
Subject: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

There has been alot of discussion about this recently, so I thought I'd
offer some suggestions on how to do it on a SM.

While you are sailing hard on the wind (with both main and jib, but
with no
mizzen up), with the mainsail at almost midship, then turn the wheel hard
over to tack, but don't release the sheet. When the bow crosses the wind,
the jib will back because you didn't release the sheet. Now turn the wheel
all the way in the other direction and secure it. You're done, so now
go get
a beer. It takes less than 10 seconds and only 1 person. The boat will lie
quietly and will move between 1 and 2 knots. The jib sheet or the jib
itself
will lay against the forward shroud but will not rub excessively. If you
feel you are sailing too far away from your intended course, or if you get
too close to a lee shore, just get the boat sailing again on the "new
tack"
and then repeat the process and hove to in the other direction. You can
tweak the sails a little if you want, but I never have seen the need. You
don't have to reef down (any more than you may already be reefed) in order
to hove to; I have hove to with a full main and full jib (even a 150).

On a long trip going to weather, it makes sense to hove to now and then so
the crew can enjoy a meal in relatively gentle motion and also have a
happy
cook. We once hove to for 24 straight hours, when we had 30-35 knots
dead on
the nose, as it just didn't make sense to smash into it. It was better
just
to wait it out until the wind died a little. We also never make
landfall in
the dark, both for safety reasons and because it is always so beautiful to
make landfall at dawn. So we either control boat speed for the last 24
hours
before landfall, to ensure a daylight arrival, or we hove to and wait out
the few hours before dawn.

Best regards,

John Martin

SM 248 "MOON DOG"

__________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
http://www.bing.
<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants

<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT

&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT
<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants

<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT

&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT>
_MFESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1>

com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFESRP_Local_Map

sMenu_Resturants_1x1



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This seal needed replacement on my 1985 Mango. a couple of years ago.
 
A lenghty reasearch was concluded by the purchase of the seal from the only source found (with the exception of a scrapyard filled with old Renault cars) was: Amel in Larochelle.
 
Since then, i have not reinstalled the seal, not because it is to much work ( it only requires screwing 4 small screws), but this seal had, over the years, seriously damaged the surface of the teek veneer and i had, while refinishing the wood work in the cockpit with Sikken- Cetol, tried to hide the damage to the companionway door with teack colored stain before refinishing it with Cetol. As many Amel owners know, completely replacing the wood panel or even redoing the teack veneer on the companionway requires unbolting the whole windshield in order to fully access this panel...
 
Since then, i have been looking for a less agressive way of sealing this panel from the elements, althought i have'nt seen any adverse effect of not having this seal reinstalled while cruising in all kinds of weather for at least 5 000 Nm!
 
Has anyone found an alternate solution to reinstalling this agressive seal initially conceived for a glass surface (which the Amel yard refers to as a 'lèvre Renault' ( Renault lip))?

Serge, Opéra, Mango #51









 


.

You can found it on internet for 2euros/meter
jluc
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Le 04/09/2010 06:48, kimberlite a écrit :

I have a good friend that is an executive at Renault in Paris.

I inquired about the gasket and this was his answer.

Hi Eric.

I'm arfaid news are not good for your window.

I have found the reference 77 00 640 249 you gave me.

It was used on a car called the R5.

Production stopped in 1985.

We don't have parts anymore for the R5...

The window's reference is the 77 04 001 895 or 77 04 001 896.

Both are unavailable and won't be produced again as the car is too old.

I guess Amel has a stockpile of them. I would stock up on one or two now.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of john martin
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:04 PM
To: Amel YAHOO GROUP
Subject: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

There has been alot of discussion about this recently, so I thought I'd
offer some suggestions on how to do it on a SM.

While you are sailing hard on the wind (with both main and jib, but
with no
mizzen up), with the mainsail at almost midship, then turn the wheel hard
over to tack, but don't release the sheet. When the bow crosses the wind,
the jib will back because you didn't release the sheet. Now turn the wheel
all the way in the other direction and secure it. You're done, so now
go get
a beer. It takes less than 10 seconds and only 1 person. The boat will lie
quietly and will move between 1 and 2 knots. The jib sheet or the jib
itself
will lay against the forward shroud but will not rub excessively. If you
feel you are sailing too far away from your intended course, or if you get
too close to a lee shore, just get the boat sailing again on the "new
tack"
and then repeat the process and hove to in the other direction. You can
tweak the sails a little if you want, but I never have seen the need. You
don't have to reef down (any more than you may already be reefed) in order
to hove to; I have hove to with a full main and full jib (even a 150).

On a long trip going to weather, it makes sense to hove to now and then so
the crew can enjoy a meal in relatively gentle motion and also have a
happy
cook. We once hove to for 24 straight hours, when we had 30-35 knots
dead on
the nose, as it just didn't make sense to smash into it. It was better
just
to wait it out until the wind died a little. We also never make
landfall in
the dark, both for safety reasons and because it is always so beautiful to
make landfall at dawn. So we either control boat speed for the last 24
hours
before landfall, to ensure a daylight arrival, or we hove to and wait out
the few hours before dawn.

Best regards,

John Martin

SM 248 "MOON DOG"

__________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
http://www.bing.
<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT
<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT>
_MFESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1>
com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFESRP_Local_Map
sMenu_Resturants_1x1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a good friend that is an executive at Renault in Paris.

I inquired about the gasket and this was his answer.



Hi Eric.



I'm arfaid news are not good for your window.

I have found the reference 77 00 640 249 you gave me.

It was used on a car called the R5.

Production stopped in 1985.

We don't have parts anymore for the R5...

The window's reference is the 77 04 001 895 or 77 04 001 896.

Both are unavailable and won't be produced again as the car is too old.



I guess Amel has a stockpile of them. I would stock up on one or two now.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of john martin
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:04 PM
To: Amel YAHOO GROUP
Subject: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"






There has been alot of discussion about this recently, so I thought I'd
offer some suggestions on how to do it on a SM.

While you are sailing hard on the wind (with both main and jib, but with no
mizzen up), with the mainsail at almost midship, then turn the wheel hard
over to tack, but don't release the sheet. When the bow crosses the wind,
the jib will back because you didn't release the sheet. Now turn the wheel
all the way in the other direction and secure it. You're done, so now go get
a beer. It takes less than 10 seconds and only 1 person. The boat will lie
quietly and will move between 1 and 2 knots. The jib sheet or the jib itself
will lay against the forward shroud but will not rub excessively. If you
feel you are sailing too far away from your intended course, or if you get
too close to a lee shore, just get the boat sailing again on the "new tack"
and then repeat the process and hove to in the other direction. You can
tweak the sails a little if you want, but I never have seen the need. You
don't have to reef down (any more than you may already be reefed) in order
to hove to; I have hove to with a full main and full jib (even a 150).

On a long trip going to weather, it makes sense to hove to now and then so
the crew can enjoy a meal in relatively gentle motion and also have a happy
cook. We once hove to for 24 straight hours, when we had 30-35 knots dead on
the nose, as it just didn't make sense to smash into it. It was better just
to wait it out until the wind died a little. We also never make landfall in
the dark, both for safety reasons and because it is always so beautiful to
make landfall at dawn. So we either control boat speed for the last 24 hours
before landfall, to ensure a daylight arrival, or we hove to and wait out
the few hours before dawn.

Best regards,

John Martin

SM 248 "MOON DOG"


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