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Electric Headsail Furler Replacements for Amel and Bamar MEJ & EJF

 

All,

Amel-designed Genoa Electric Furler:
As you may be aware there are no Amel-designed Genoa furlers available and there are only a few of the parts available from the Swiss guy who manufactured these for Amel. If you want a part now, or any time in the future, you should contact him immediately. When they are gone, they are gone. I suggest that at the very least you purchase the Bronze Spur Gear and Worm Gear, with possibly the bearings and seals. French only:  Pierangelo VIGNANDO <vikasa.vignando@...+41 79 447 21 42. Tell him I gave you his contact information.
Bronze and Worm Gear.jpg

BAMAR:
Regarding BAMAR MEJ furlers, you may be aware that BAMAR discontinued these belt-driven MEJ furlers and now sells the EJF, a gear-drive furler. BAMAR offered a reduced price to upgrade the MEJ to the EJF, which a number Amel 54 owners took advantage of. Regrettably, I am aware of two failures of the newer EJF furlers due to water intrusion. Water intrusion was a big issue with the MEJ.

Best Alternative today - FACNOR (same as the ProFurl on Amel 50 & 60) & Discount available to you
Some of you are aware of my review of an Amel 50 here. One of the things I really liked with the Amel 50 was the Profurl headsail furlers. I really liked them. Profurl and FACNOR have exactly the same electric headsail furlers. They are owned by the same company. These furlers are waterproof, among other things. More, click here
Photo of a FACNOR electric furler installed on an Amel 54.
image.png

Cost, Discounts, & Sharing with you:
My clients know that I try to negotiate discounts for them for Amel OEM quality replacements. I have just completed negotiations with FACNOR for a "Preferred Vendor" discount on these remarkable furlers regardless of where you have them installed in the world. I am notifying my clients of this, and if any Amel owner is interested in taking advantage of the discount I negotiated, please email me at brouse@... for more information because I would like to share this with you. 

I am not affiliated with FACNOR, or any other Preferred Vendor. I never accept and always refuse any commission, reward, or fee of any sort from anyone to promote their products. 

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat

PAOLO CUNEO
 

Well done Martin.
I am trying to visually adapt your 54 cockpit arrangement to my SM but probably is feasible. It is not entirely clear to me from the picture how you manage the table stand and the table itself when not in use. Is the stand permanently in place behind
the seat and the table top resting vertical against it? And, is the stand mounted off center in respect of the table top?
Many thanks
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Inviato da iPad

--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat

Joan Blaas
 

Hi Martin,

Your helm seat solution looks great. I particularly like it because you have chosen original Amel parts. 

With the 55 the helm seat is fitted on top of the extended cockpit port bench. So we can fit a seat pedestal but have to look for a low adjustable swivel or something.

Do you know the exact model of your Besenzoni chair (the one used on the 50)?

Thanks,

Joan - Caconano
A55#5


Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

Courtney Gorman
 

Try a piece of rigging in the drill open the end a bit it will chew out anything.  
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54#101


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan "Woody" Wood <woody@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Nov 29, 2021 6:55 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

Nice job Kevin.

I’m thinking of replacing mine soon, not because of corrosion but there seems to be a blockage in it. I presumed it was calcium and tried acid but to no avail. Next step would be to drill into it but would the original fitting have had an inverse U-bend inside the tank to prevent back pressure on the feed pipe when the tank is full?
I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is. 
Anyone know anything about this?

- Woody


Re: 220 volt microwave replacement in SM

Patrick McAneny
 

We replaced our microwave with an inexpensive 110volt and run it off the inverter. We use the microwave all the time. Warm up left overs, warm precooked meals, microwave egg for our version of an egg McMuffin, warm up water for tea. We use it everyday. 

SvShenanigans
Pat & Diane
& SassyCat 
St Augustine, FL



On Nov 18, 2021, at 9:06 PM, Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:

I’m looking to purchase a new 220 volt microwave that fits in our SM microwave cabinet (approx 23”x13.5”x15”). Has anyone replaced theirs here in the USA and if so which model fits in the space without too much customization?
--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362
Currently in Brunswick, GA


Re: Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head

Steve Leeds
 

Hi Mark,
Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected.  Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety.  Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread!  You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line.  They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose.

Regards,
Steve Leeds
Sharki 121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.

On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:


Hi Everyone,

 

Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.

 

For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: 24V Alternator

 

Kent,

Since what you have is a repowered SM, I am not sure that I can help further without knowing more. I think it is likely that the issue is a loose connection, but could be an internal problem with the alternator, like a blown diode. I am not sure which 24v alternator you have, and that may be the reason for no excitement at high rpm. 

Maybe try to locate the small relay shown on the right side of the photo I included...if/when you find it, trace the wires to find the one that goes to the excite connection on your 24v alternator, assuming it has one and does not rely on internal excite. 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Mon, Nov 29, 2021 at 8:40 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Bill,
No, even running at 2400rpm, no joy.

I will chase the excite wire to it's origin (where does it usually originate?) and do a couple of tests of the alternator and regulator that I found in the regulator info.  I'm in a little over my pay grade, but no electricians available anytime soon.


--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: 24V Alternator

karkauai
 

Thanks Bill,
No, even running at 2400rpm, no joy.

I will chase the excite wire to it's origin (where does it usually originate?) and do a couple of tests of the alternator and regulator that I found in the regulator info.  I'm in a little over my pay grade, but no electricians available anytime soon.


--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat

Justin Maguire
 

Nice! Great work. 

And we love the seat on the 50… it super comfortable. I’m 6’1” 


On Nov 29, 2021, at 04:50, Martin Birkhoff <mbirkhoff@...> wrote:



Hi all,

I am only 180 cm tall and, at 86 kg, of reasonably normal build. During the test drives with Mago del Sur (Amel 54), nothing was noticeable. Later, however, I realised that my sitting position was too high to look through the front windows in a relaxed manner. I regularly got neck pain and muscle tension. The admiral, on the other hand, complained about the rather wide gap below the backrest, which caused her back or kidney area to cool down. We both regretted that the steering seat was not height-adjustable and could not be rotated either, which reduced the seating space at the cockpit table.


At the Düsselorf Boat show we ordered a new helm seat from Besenzoni. This is the seat which is used on the Amel 50. Please note: the original Besenzoni seat-design is narrower than the one used on the Amel 50. Keep this in mind when ordering. On request, the Amel logo can be embroidered on the back of the seat.

The support of the seat on the photo is a cheap improvisation and will be exchanged for a more solid model, also of course adjustable in height.

After a lot of fiddling we have fixed the original table with a single central table support (stainless steel) on the hatch of the engine compartment. The counter base of the screw connection consists of a larger aluminium plate below the sandwich of the engine compartment hatch. Table and table leg together are removable after loosening a clamping screw. We were able to continue using all elements of the original Amel 54 table: aft support, side extension and side extension support. To be honest we will replace the original table top with a lightweight top by opportunity as the whole construction is quite heavy.

The hatch to the engine compartment can be opened with the table folded down, whereby the opening angle is somewhat smaller than originally: the table will hit the mast at a certain angle. Alternatively you can take away the table and the hatch will open as usual.

Regards
Martin

Mago del Sur - 54#40


Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi all,

I am only 180 cm tall and, at 86 kg, of reasonably normal build. During the test drives with Mago del Sur (Amel 54), nothing was noticeable. Later, however, I realised that my sitting position was too high to look through the front windows in a relaxed manner. I regularly got neck pain and muscle tension. The admiral, on the other hand, complained about the rather wide gap below the backrest, which caused her back or kidney area to cool down. We both regretted that the steering seat was not height-adjustable and could not be rotated either, which reduced the seating space at the cockpit table.


At the Düsselorf Boat show we ordered a new helm seat from Besenzoni. This is the seat which is used on the Amel 50. Please note: the original Besenzoni seat-design is narrower than the one used on the Amel 50. Keep this in mind when ordering. On request, the Amel logo can be embroidered on the back of the seat.

The support of the seat on the photo is a cheap improvisation and will be exchanged for a more solid model, also of course adjustable in height.

After a lot of fiddling we have fixed the original table with a single central table support (stainless steel) on the hatch of the engine compartment. The counter base of the screw connection consists of a larger aluminium plate below the sandwich of the engine compartment hatch. Table and table leg together are removable after loosening a clamping screw. We were able to continue using all elements of the original Amel 54 table: aft support, side extension and side extension support. To be honest we will replace the original table top with a lightweight top by opportunity as the whole construction is quite heavy.

The hatch to the engine compartment can be opened with the table folded down, whereby the opening angle is somewhat smaller than originally: the table will hit the mast at a certain angle. Alternatively you can take away the table and the hatch will open as usual.

Regards
Martin

Mago del Sur - 54#40


Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

We have replaced both lower holding tank outlets and replaced with PVC tubes – both were straight copper tubes with very little inside the tanks – both very corroded and starting to leak. I drilled a hole through the visible part and twisted to remove, with some work with long-nose pliers afterwards, but this was relatively easy to do.

We have replaced one of the inlet copper pipes – it was less corroded than the outlet pipes and was much harder to replace because there was much more copper pipe inside the holding tank and on the end inside the tank was attached a piece of 38mm hose that formed a loop into the tank. We had to remove the lower part of the copper tube first and then had to pass a grinding tool inside the pipe to cut the upper portion of pipe inside the holding tank.  Once this was done we were able to retrieve the inner copper pipe piece and attached hose. This was replaced by a long straight piece of 40mm diameter PVC tubing it was not possible to add hosing on the inside again but I was able to pass the PVC tube close to the top of the inside of the holding tank.

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische SM472

Canet-en-Roussillon

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Alan "Woody" Wood via groups.io
Sent: 29 November 2021 12:56
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

 

Nice job Kevin.

I’m thinking of replacing mine soon, not because of corrosion but there seems to be a blockage in it. I presumed it was calcium and tried acid but to no avail. Next step would be to drill into it but would the original fitting have had an inverse U-bend inside the tank to prevent back pressure on the feed pipe when the tank is full?

I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is. 

Anyone know anything about this?

- Woody


Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

Alan "Woody" Wood
 

Nice job Kevin.

I’m thinking of replacing mine soon, not because of corrosion but there seems to be a blockage in it. I presumed it was calcium and tried acid but to no avail. Next step would be to drill into it but would the original fitting have had an inverse U-bend inside the tank to prevent back pressure on the feed pipe when the tank is full?

I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is. 

Anyone know anything about this?

- Woody


Re: Something for Electrical Engineers, Experts, and Wannabes like me

Dean Gillies
 

Maxwell's equations explain everything perfectly. Don't they??


Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

Michael Winand
 

Nice work, the aft head will be in the same condition. The copper is not a good thing for black water, urine and copper will react, eating away the copper. 
Michael Nebo sm251 

On Sun, 28 Nov 2021, 10:57 pm Kevin Schmit, <kevschmit64@...> wrote:
Good morning!

I got a chance to take care of an aging problem while conveniently tied to the dock this week.  

About 6 months ago I noticed a small pinhole leak in the copper hose fitting in the forward head while installing new head hoses.  I temp repaired the pin hole problem using JB weld but I knew it was a ticking time bomb.

Sure enough, last week I noted the sound of squirting water in and around the same copper fitting.  Further investigation revealed another hole on the opposite side of the fitting.  Enough was enough, I knew it was time to conduct a proper repair.

I started by removing the old copper using a set of vice grips to twist out as much of it I could with brute force.  80% of it came out with the pliers.  I then used my drill bit step tool to grind out the remaining copper, glue and gunk.  I ground out just enough until I got clean fiberglass chips coming out of the hole.

Goal was to get a clean, dry surface in which to get the West System epoxy to grab when installing the new fitting without enlarging the hole too much.  The hole is 1.5” in diameter.

Next issue was to determine what kind of fitting to use…?  I thought about replacing the copper with bronze but I like using PVC fittings (above the water line only) with black water if possible.

I found a 1.5” to 1.5” hose barb to hose barb fitting would fit nicely.  I also like the idea that the head hose now has barbs to grab into while clamping compared to the old smooth copper fitting.

I dry fit everything together first and then made some colloidal silica thickened epoxy (peanut butter consistency), epoxy coated both the hole and the new fitting mating surfaces and then tapped into place using a small hammer.  I wanted to get the new fitting sunk in at least 3/4”.  Lastly I taped the joint with some tape just to keep any epoxy from dripping out.  After 24 hrs of cure, the repair is successful!


--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362
Currently in Brunswick, GA for the holiday


Re: pressure hot water

 

Eloi,

It could be many causes, but if there were a leak in the hot water line below the floor of the aft head, it might explain the noise and the low pressure.

This snippet from my book will help you as you troubleshoot. Note there is one line off of the manifold in the engine room (I circled in red) supplying hot water Aft. Assuming there is no leaking visible under the floor, I think I would start by removing that hose and testing the flow. Note: Amel used some sort of adhesive at the connection of these hoses to the manifold and copper pipe. Heat will help removal (air gun, or hot water), and I suggest a sealant when reconnecting. Also see the last snippet for locating a potential clog in the hot water lines.

image.png

image.png

image.png



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Nov 28, 2021 at 10:40 AM Eloi Bamberg <eloi.bamberg@...> wrote:
Hello,

The pressure of the hot water in my aft head is way to low (shower and sink). In the galley and the forward head there is no problem. When the water flows, I hear a sound as if there where some air in the tubes, but the flow is steady. I visually controlled the copper tubes and hoses in the engin room and under the aft bed. I couldn't find any leak. Any ideas / suggestions what could be the problem?

Thanks

Eloi
SM2K 426 RedLion


Re: 24V Alternator

 

There might be a loose wire, probably a wire on the 12v/24v excite relay, or to or from that relay and the 24v alternator. Yours probably doesn't look exactly like this but has these components. Does the 24v alternator self-excite when you quickly throttle up to 1800 RPM?
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Nov 28, 2021 at 10:13 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
The external regulator is a Balmar MC 624
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


pressure hot water

Eloi Bamberg
 

Hello,

The pressure of the hot water in my aft head is way to low (shower and sink). In the galley and the forward head there is no problem. When the water flows, I hear a sound as if there where some air in the tubes, but the flow is steady. I visually controlled the copper tubes and hoses in the engin room and under the aft bed. I couldn't find any leak. Any ideas / suggestions what could be the problem?

Thanks

Eloi
SM2K 426 RedLion


Re: 24V Alternator

karkauai
 

The external regulator is a Balmar MC 624
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


24V Alternator

karkauai
 

Happy Holidays, everyone.
We are in W Palm Beach, FL after a boisterous sail down from the Chesapeake.  15ft bar at StAugustine with 8-10 ft seas kept us from stopping there.

On the way down the belt on our Yanmar (4JH4HTE) that powers the fresh water pump and 12V alternator broke. We had to remove the 24V alternator belt to replace the broken one. Everything seems back to normal, but since then the 24V alternator isn't producing any charge current. The belt is tight and not slipping, and all wiring at the alternator is snug.  It's a Valeo 60 A 28 V only 2 years old with a Balmar  external regulator.

Any thoughts on how or if the belt issue could have caused this?  Troubleshooting tips?

Thanks on advance.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: MDKAL starting problem

Bill Kinney
 

I agree that a bad solenoid is a possible cause of the symptoms described.  

The solenoid used on most Onans is a "two coil" type.  One powerful "start coil" that pulls the plunger to the "run" position, and a second one that holds it there so the "Start coil" can be turned off to prevent overheating.  If the hold coil is not working properly, as soon as the "start coil" is de-energized the plunger will return to the stop position, and the engine stops.  A number of things can cause this, including just dirt making it sticky (if it doesn't open all the way, it doesn't stay open) or a bad connection.

These solenoids are available aftermarket at a small fraction of the price from Onan.  When we had an Onan onboard, this was one of our spares.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA

61 - 80 of 61068