--- In amelyachtowners@..., Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:

Roy, I don't know if you got an earlier email regarding delivery of your boat.
I can do in the next weather window if you wish. We can work out a good rate.
Please let me know. By the way I am an Amel owner of two different boats over
the last 15 years, I know them well, and am also an USCG 50 tonner, and
engineer.



Best regards
Capt. Richard Piller
of Annapolis MD and Laconia NH


________________________________
From: Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
To: Amel Owners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, August 26, 2010 9:24:09 AM
Subject: [Amel] Need crew for move from Norfolk ,VA to Portsmouth, NH


Any ideas as to who I might hire for this move?
Roy Duddy
Duddy Law Offices
231 North Amherst Road
Bedford, NH 03110
603-472-8500
603-472-7333 Fax
rduddy@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello,

My wife and I sailed last year with Jay Thompson from Norfolk to the BVI. Jay is a sailor and crew member. His phone number is 757 544 7126. Stay away from Norfolk delivery capt. Jon Scott as he ran another Amel owners yacht aground.

Fair winds,

George #353 Indecent

I was given the name of an excellent crew by Joel Potter/Ray Eaton in Florida in 2002 when I unexpectedly found myself without a crew, on a voyage from Gloucester VA, to move my SM2K from Charleston to Ft Lauderdale. His name is Patrick McGee. He was great company and very experienced and knowledgable about Amels. I don't know if he is still available and I don't have his contact details any more. You could check with Joel or Ray.
Peter Aubrey MAIA SM2K #293.

Dual mechanical thermostats. Same as original.

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387

hi,
are these the dual thermostat units or the single for the refrigerator?
thanks
eric
sm376

I bought two of them from:
Maddie Humphrey
Penguin Refrigeration Ltd
Tel: 0845 257 7798
Fax: 0845 257 6698
www.penguinfrigo.co.uk

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can get a dual thermostat for my freezer/refrig?

I tried Veco in Annapolis and they do not have it any longer.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Hi Ian,
 
How did you determine that the gas is OK in the system?
 
What you describe is usually caused by a loss ( leak) of gas.
 
A compressor failure seldom occurs so as to provide the gradual reduction you seem to describe.
 
Is the compressor running Hot?
 
And how hot is the heat exchanger?
 
A compressor failure would be revealed by a low differential between the low and high side, while the low side fails to seriously reduce from the static pressure of the gas at the current temperature of the condenser.
 
There are highly competent refrigeration technicians in Spain..
 
Serge,     Opéra,  Mango #51.
 




--- En date de : Mar, 31.8.10, Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...> a écrit :


De : Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...>
Objet : [Amel] Refrigerator on SM
À : amelyachtowners@...
Date: mardi 31 août 2010 09 h 40


 




One more. Having arrived in Spain from Scotland our fridge is now being asked to raise its game.Even with the thermostat on full the temperature does not seem to be as low as it should.It makes ice, but the sort that fall out of the ice tray as soon as you tip it.To me, you should have to break the ice out. The gas level is fine.Electric voltage is fine. Given this data, has anyone a view as to which is at fault--the thermostat or the compressor? Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Spain

Definitely join offshore passage opportunities. Contact Hank at
www.sailopo. Com. Lots of captns & various levels of crew.

Ric Gottschalk
Bali Hai SN24

On Aug 26, 2010, at 9:24 AM, Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...> wrote:

Any ideas as to who I might hire for this move?
Roy Duddy
Duddy Law Offices
231 North Amherst Road
Bedford, NH 03110
603-472-8500
603-472-7333 Fax
rduddy@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have personally installed stainless steel rub rails on three of the Amel
boats I have owned. I added 'personally' here just so everyone will know-if
I can do it, you can do it.
The stainless steel for the SM 53 is a quarter round affair that will stand
slightly proud of the recess in the fiberglass box section/rub rail put on
at the factory. The counterpart for the 54 is more rectangular in
configuration and is mounted on top of the proud fiberglass section (why did
they do that?) of the box section/rub rail. Both are frightfully expensive
so be prepared for a shock as I found no supplier much below any other in
their pricing. This box section is actually an integrally molded part of the
hull and its primary function is to act like a crash bumper-energy disperser
if you bang into solid objects too hard. It breaks down and
crushes/splinters, there by dispersing unwanted energy, sacrificing itself
to prevent damage to the laminated hull to deck joint behind it. It is
fairly easy to replace damaged sections. Much easier than repairing the hull
to deck joint back to original strength. This box section has a drain at the
aft end and water can not enter inside of the boat through this area so a
sealant is not required. I did use red Loc-Tite to secure the fasteners.

From memory, the stainless sections are about 6 or 7 feet in length with
countersunk mounting holes on approximately 6 inch centers. Getting the Amel
supplied-sun baked on silver tape (which actually had "for interior use
only" on the backside of some replacement stock I got from Olivier years
ago!) off is the hardest part of the job. I found Three M adhesive remover
very helpful. Keep good solvent proof gloves between you and this stuff as
it will turn your liver into a raisin in short order. Start at the front and
drill the proper sized hole through the outside or the box section so you
can use a tap to thread the hole to properly receive the appropriate
stainless steel machine screw fastener and then install the front most
fastener. Install the middle most fastener next. Then the aft most. Do the
remainder there after. Pay attention your helper who is standing back a ways
who advises you if you are keeping everything straight and without wiggles
and wows. Do not over tighten. If you botch one, make some mish-mash
(fiberglass mat strands in polyester resin) to fill the errant hole and
redrill.be more careful the second time.

When you are all done and admiring your handy work is a good time to write
fifty times, "This is a RUB rail, not a CRASH rail." We all become somewhat
more bold when stainless steel replaces tape. My buddies at Amel were very
reluctant to offer the stainless rub rail as an option and did so to get me
to stop whining about it more than anything. Mr. Carteau said "Twice as many
boats will crush the box section with this stainless steel installed." As
usual, Mr. Carteau was right.

All the best,
Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126
Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301
Phone: (954) 462-5869
Email: jfpottercys@...

On later model SM 53' a "night time/ quiet switch" was added to the galley
refrigerator. Get down on all four and look at the area where the fridge
meets the sole. Should be a hole in the vertical base piece, incidentally
just big enough for a normal sized toe, with a switch that slows the fan
speed at night so as not to disturb the restless ones retired in the saloon
in silent anchorages.

It does decrease the efficiency of the unit about the amount you have
noticed so that may be all you need as you are certain the gas level is
correct. Dirty fins on the heat exchanger can also cause a lot more grief
than on might imagine as I learned the hard way. These things are lint
magnets.

All the best,
Joel

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126
Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301
Phone: (954) 462-5869
Email: jfpottercys@...

One more. Having arrived in Spain from Scotland our fridge is now being asked to raise its game.Even with the thermostat on full the temperature does not seem to be as low as it should.It makes ice, but the sort that fall out of the ice tray as soon as you tip it.To me, you should have to break the ice out. The gas level is fine.Electric voltage is fine. Given this data, has anyone a view as to which is at fault--the thermostat or the compressor? Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Spain

Us again. We have this washing machine on board and after ten years of use its bearings are starting to protest. Has anyone replaced these bearings? Any tips?We live in fear that the whole thing will pack up, but yesterday, here in Spain, we discovered a near identical machine. Spanish made ( I'm not sure that the original is still made by Thomson, but presumably they have flogged off the m oulds to someone else) I will post details later of the name of the Spanish version. It costs 420 Euros, more than the usual vertical door opener because there is little demand for a small top opener. However, the Spanish one does 6 kg,one more than the Thomson Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Spain

Hi y'all, The gear box which sits above the electric motor on my mast furling----ie that aluminium box which has a winch handle socket on it--has started to leak grease.I believe that this is meant to be greased for life. If so, I assume that the lower seal has now perished and needs replacing. 1. Has anyone done this? Where did you get the seal? 2. How did you know how much grease to put back into the box ?
Cheers, Ian and Judy , Pen Azen, SM 302, Muros, Galicia, Spain

Eric- re Rubrail- We sanded off the old silver and awl- gripped the result.
Then had all our holes, 8-12 inches apart predrilled in the starboard, with
smaller hole in the fiberglass and lagged the screws in. Used sealant in the
holes and in a small circle around them. You may feel better with the
screws 8 inches apart. For the aft most section on both sides, used a wider
piece starboard and matched the cut of the board to the shape of the recess
and beveled the edges. Murray.



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Malcolm Phillips
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 5:17 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Modifications





Hello again Ian,

Hadn't read your response.

Thanks very much for your info on the bevel gears and I will
put a taper on the s/s sleeve as you suggest.

I'm now back in the UK from Turkey and will overhaul the
Bowthruster gearbox this winter.

I also recently replaced the 2 large foam washers on the
bowthruster tube which has kept the interior of the boat much
cleaner, the main benefit was of course to avoid any sea
water reaching the ball race at the bottom of the bowthruster
motor as I believe some S/M s have had this ballrace
disintegrate and burn out the motor - a very expensive problem !

I'm sure that the Schleiper unit will be a better option than
the Leroy Somers Motor.

Thanks again,

Malcolm S/M 464 Bon Jovi

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: 27 July 2010 16:36
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Modifications

Hi Malcom,

you should be OK. My bevel gears were 7 years old before I made the
modification, and I suspect they were running in emulsion for much of
their life. Certainly before the recent haul out, there was no oil left
at all in the housing when I took the thruster apart. I am just amazed
that this unit was designed with a single lip seal and such a poor seal
to shaft contact surface. I believe that Amel use a Schleiper made unit
on the 54. At least the demo I had a look at when they first came out
was fitted with one.

By the way, when I had the stainless sleeve made for the shaft, I had
the outer end tapered. This makes it easier for the seal to slide onto
the shaft without popping the spring off it's inner face. I bet there
are quite a few Amels out there with the spring dislodged. It's so easy
to do.

Good luck

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 05/07/2010 07:47, Malcolm Phillips wrote:

Eric/Ian,

You may be interested to note that the bearing spec on my
Redline 464 gives 2 sealed ball races and one open, ie the top
one which then allows you to fill with oil. I am very
impressed with Ian,s modifications which I may do when I next
overhaul the bow thrusters gearbox. Unfortunately on the first
overhaul I concluded that the bevel gears were worn after
running in emulsion for a year SO PACKING WITH WATERPROOF
GREASE MAY BE THE ONLY WAY OF GETTING A SWEETER SOUND BACK !

Malcolm

S/M 464 Bon Jovi

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: 03 July 2010 06:13
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Modifications

Ian,

As I understand what you wrote about the bow thruster you added a

sleeve

in
the shaft that is connected to the prp and replaced the bearings with
sealed
bearings and then packed the gearbox with grease.

Why can you not add oil from the top of the bow thruster?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of sv_crusader
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 12:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Modifications

Hello Richard,

the stainless bush was an exact copy of the bronze one, except that it
was
made with three grub screws instead of two to allow better centering.

Assembled with grease there are no signs of any Galling after over

three

years of use. In fact both the shaft and the bush look as new.

I am off for 10 weeks sailing this morning, so will be unable to reply
further until I find a wireless network to log on to, but I will be

glad

to
discuss further when I get back.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader (Headed for Mersin Eastern Turkey)

--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Richard03801
<richard03801@...>
wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you plan

between
the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss normally does not work
well.
If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is used as a bearing

surface.

It
may be that the bearing pack is stiff enough to hold the shaft from
moving/touching. I guess time will tell.

Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be detrimental to

the

original concept. Maybe so, but here are three modifications that

have

definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main engine prop

shaft

bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I recently

hauled

for

the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely no wear
whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of the

surface

where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no noticeable wear

to

the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I changed them

anyway.

This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on the

standard

bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much longer

with

the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term cost

saving

too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M. There was a
noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in short

seas.

The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and because of

this

maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain and

100M

of

rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker together

with

my

two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent of 100M

of

10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly seems to be

for

the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow thruster,

which

seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of the time.

The

arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre shaft is

hardly

conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the shaft and

had

it

machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the lip seal

to

run

on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings, which were

all

rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease. Of course

this

prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube, so I

decided to

not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use water
repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back plate was
refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and grease

was

also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and the lip

seal.

This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster has

never

sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings running is a

sea

water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in power

either.

Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this winter to

see

if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the gears,

but

it

is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel gears

will

be

considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything that

reduces

wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

Scanned by MailDefender - managed email security from intY -
www.maildefender.net

Scanned by MailDefender - managed email security from intY -
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Eric-We used either # 8 or #10 wood stainless steel screws oval head and
obviously countersunk. I believe they went into solid fiberglass. Check a
pilot hole with a small depth gauge. We did use a good sealnt in the hioles
and screws because nothing really sticks to high molecular weight
polyethylene ( starboard ). I went to several websites and did not find
what you refer to, but the smaller ones were very pricey. The pieces were
slightly overlapped at the junctions. Murray.



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 8:40 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Rub rail





Murray,

Did you just screw into the old silver covered portion of the rubrail? How
far apart did you place the screws? Did you use sealant on the screws?

There is a half round s/s extrusion that fits exactly in the rubrail
depression, had you thought of using this?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of murray k. seidel
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 8:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Rub rail

Re Rubrail: On Sundance sm349, we sanded off strip in rectangular fiberglass
rubrail and cut strips of thick STARBOARD that fitted nicely in groove and
protruded at least a ¼ “ beyond. We fastened it with ss screws. We also
painted the rubrail bright Blue to go with my bright red boot top. Whole
project easy. Did it dockside . A friend of mine and I used his table saw
and router to round the edges. I have used it on pilings for more that 3
years. If it gets and scratches, use light sandpaper and they are gone. Less
than 500 dollars and 4 days work . I will match this against a wooden rail
with a 1/2 inch oval on it any day. The bright white sits in the middle of
the bright blue. I now have red, white and blue awl grip high lights. It
looks great. Murray Seidel Sundance sm349

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of spritoaffine
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Rub rail

Hi Everyone
Has anyone replaced their rub rail? ours is probably original and gives off
a greasy white deposit when touched, we spend lots of time cleaning the boat
only to have all sorts of rubbish wash out from behind the rubrail shortly
afterwards and dirty the hull again, we also have dirty streaks down the
quarters caused by dirty water from behind the rub rail, it does it's job as
a resilient bumper strip but detracts from the boat cosmetically. Any ideas?
Hazel and David Worthington
Sharki 148 Preveza Marina



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Murray,

Did you just screw into the old silver covered portion of the rubrail? How
far apart did you place the screws? Did you use sealant on the screws?

There is a half round s/s extrusion that fits exactly in the rubrail
depression, had you thought of using this?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of murray k. seidel
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 8:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Rub rail





Re Rubrail: On Sundance sm349, we sanded off strip in rectangular fiberglass
rubrail and cut strips of thick STARBOARD that fitted nicely in groove and
protruded at least a ¼ “ beyond. We fastened it with ss screws. We also
painted the rubrail bright Blue to go with my bright red boot top. Whole
project easy. Did it dockside . A friend of mine and I used his table saw
and router to round the edges. I have used it on pilings for more that 3
years. If it gets and scratches, use light sandpaper and they are gone. Less
than 500 dollars and 4 days work . I will match this against a wooden rail
with a 1/2 inch oval on it any day. The bright white sits in the middle of
the bright blue. I now have red, white and blue awl grip high lights. It
looks great. Murray Seidel Sundance sm349

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of spritoaffine
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Rub rail

Hi Everyone
Has anyone replaced their rub rail? ours is probably original and gives off
a greasy white deposit when touched, we spend lots of time cleaning the boat
only to have all sorts of rubbish wash out from behind the rubrail shortly
afterwards and dirty the hull again, we also have dirty streaks down the
quarters caused by dirty water from behind the rub rail, it does it's job as
a resilient bumper strip but detracts from the boat cosmetically. Any ideas?
Hazel and David Worthington
Sharki 148 Preveza Marina

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re Rubrail: On Sundance sm349, we sanded off strip in rectangular fiberglass
rubrail and cut strips of thick STARBOARD that fitted nicely in groove and
protruded at least a ¼ “ beyond. We fastened it with ss screws. We also
painted the rubrail bright Blue to go with my bright red boot top. Whole
project easy. Did it dockside . A friend of mine and I used his table saw
and router to round the edges. I have used it on pilings for more that 3
years. If it gets and scratches, use light sandpaper and they are gone. Less
than 500 dollars and 4 days work . I will match this against a wooden rail
with a 1/2 inch oval on it any day. The bright white sits in the middle of
the bright blue. I now have red, white and blue awl grip high lights. It
looks great. Murray Seidel Sundance sm349



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of spritoaffine
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 7:28 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Rub rail





Hi Everyone
Has anyone replaced their rub rail? ours is probably original and gives off
a greasy white deposit when touched, we spend lots of time cleaning the boat
only to have all sorts of rubbish wash out from behind the rubrail shortly
afterwards and dirty the hull again, we also have dirty streaks down the
quarters caused by dirty water from behind the rub rail, it does it's job as
a resilient bumper strip but detracts from the boat cosmetically. Any ideas?
Hazel and David Worthington
Sharki 148 Preveza Marina





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have finally given up on finding the companionway seal without going
thru Amel. They may not be able to get this part any more either. I
finally found the US company recommended by Renault for ordering parts
(Mobility RV, Inc. in Iowa), only to learn that Renault has discontinued
this part. I am looking at a few other belt weatherstripping (that's
what they call the seals used on automobile side windows) samples to see
if I can find something else that works. I'll let you know.

I've also ordered 200 ea of the slides for the curtains and shower
curtains in SM's. I will have lots of spares if you need me to send you
some.

Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Hi Mark,

I had to replace both my hoses after 5 years as they began to leak. I
used the local hydraulic shop and they made them up in a matter of
minutes at a very reasonable cost. If I recall correctly it was less
than 30 Euro. Two years later they are both working fine and I use my
watermaker almost daily.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader



On 26/08/2010 13:39, Anne and John Hollamby wrote:

Mark, The pump is known as a catpump and may perhaps be made by
Caterpillar. These pumps are used by every watermaker company and the
pistons etc are sealed with Orings as piston rings. The fittings on
the end of the HP pipe are reusable. I think details are shown on the
Desallator website.
Good huinting, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard03801
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Dessalator High Pressure Hose on SM2K

Mark if you can find a shop the makes up hydraulic hose you can get
them to make you replacements. Those hoses have to be clean. The pump
is a standard high pressure pump that you can source locally same as
the OEM does. You can also check at other Water maker suppliers too.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 25, 2010, at 22:20, "Mark" <markghayden@...
<mailto:markghayden%40yahoo.com>> wrote:

We're in Papeete and found we need to replace a high pressure hose

on our watermaker. The Dessalator agent here is out of stock and says
we should order fittings from France at some exorbitant price and wait
a couple of weeks. I was wondering if anyone on this list can share
their experiences with replacing their high pressure hoses with
non-Dessalator parts. If we don't follow the Dessalator agent's advice
and install another hose, we'd probably swap it back out with the
manufacturer's part in several months when we get to NZ.

Thanks in advance, Mark

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Roy, I don't know if you got an earlier email regarding delivery of your boat.
I can do in the next weather window if you wish. We can work out a good rate.
Please let me know. By the way I am an Amel owner of two different boats over
the last 15 years, I know them well, and am also an USCG 50 tonner, and
engineer.



Best regards
Capt. Richard Piller
of Annapolis MD and Laconia NH


________________________________
From: Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
To: Amel Owners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, August 26, 2010 9:24:09 AM
Subject: [Amel] Need crew for move from Norfolk ,VA to Portsmouth, NH


Any ideas as to who I might hire for this move?
Roy Duddy
Duddy Law Offices
231 North Amherst Road
Bedford, NH 03110
603-472-8500
603-472-7333 Fax
rduddy@...

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