We're in Papeete and found we need to replace a high pressure hose on our watermaker. The Dessalator agent here is out of stock and says we should order fittings from France at some exorbitant price and wait a couple of weeks. I was wondering if anyone on this list can share their experiences with replacing their high pressure hoses with non-Dessalator parts. If we don't follow the Dessalator agent's advice and install another hose, we'd probably swap it back out with the manufacturer's part in several months when we get to NZ.

Thanks in advance, Mark

Hi,

I have a defective freezer refrigerator thermostat in my unit under the
settee seat. It has two knobs and a switch between the knobs.



Does anyone have a source for this? I tried Veco USA and they are out of
production. Has anyone installed a digital thermostat? If so where?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi David,
How is Prevaza Marine, please pass our regards on to George, we were there for 12 years up until 2002.

Our rubbing strip was a little sticky when we bought Zephyr last year so I tried cleaning it with a Scotchpad and Jif then cleaned again with Farecla G3. That removed the surface
tackiness and then I applied two coats of wax. It has held up so far but of course we are subject to rain rather than sun here as you well know!

The dirty streaks down the quarters can be minimised by machine polishing the area and keeping it well wax polished which encourages the dirt not to stick to the hull. We have only had to clean and wax once in the last 12 months but it if there is a better solution I would be delighted to hear it. We had the same problem with boat we kept in Prevaza but that had an aluminium toeral which left multiple dirty streaks which was even more irritating.

I was told by Amel that the rubbing strip was 'nailed' on, I don't know if something was lost in the translation or not but it did put me off renewing ours!

Regards
Graham
'Zephyr' Sharki 181









--- On Wed, 25/8/10, spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...> wrote:

From: spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>
Subject: [Amel] Rub rail
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, 25 August, 2010, 12:28



Hi Everyone
Has anyone replaced their rub rail? ours is probably original and gives off a greasy white deposit when touched, we spend lots of time cleaning the boat only to have all sorts of rubbish wash out from behind the rubrail shortly afterwards and dirty the hull again, we also have dirty streaks down the quarters caused by dirty water from behind the rub rail, it does it's job as a resilient bumper strip but detracts from the boat cosmetically. Any ideas?
Hazel and David Worthington
Sharki 148 Preveza Marina

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have been following this topic with some interest. A much simpler
way to provide a stainless steel bearing surface is to ask your
bearing supplier for a 'speedisleeve'. This is a very thin sleeve
designed to slip onto any standard size shaft to provide a new
surface for the oil seal to run on. Because of the thinness of the
sleeve standard size oil seals are used. The sleeve is simply held
in place with a thin smear of locktight. Since fitting these to my
main drive we have completed 980hrs using the engine plus a fair few
additional hours with the prop free wheeling driving the aqua drive
alternator ( our boat is a Santorin) without any water ingress to
the oil. The beauty is that you can simply slip them over your
existing bronze bush without any modification. BTY because there are
three seals on the main drive you will need two speedisleeves. I
haven't done it myself but I would assume a similar solution would
work for the bow thruster shaft. Your seal supplier should be able
to replace that standard seal springs with stainless ones, usually
at no extra charge. Hope this is of interest.

Maurice & Heather
SY Baracca
Santorin #41
--- In <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Ian Shepherd
< <mailto:sv_freespirit@...> sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Malcolm,

I am afraid that I have no note of the dimensions, but obviously it
should be as thin as practicable for the machinist else you run

the risk

of weakening the shaft. At a guess I would say that my sleeve was

about

15-20 thousands of an inch. Incidentally I was talking to a marine
engineer in Leros who is familiar with Amels. He said that all of

the

boats he has worked on did not have a stainless steel spring on

the bow

thruster lip seal. Another step for improvement perhaps?

Thanks for the tip on the motor ball race. I will take a look and

spray

some anti corrosive oil around the area.

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

On 28/07/2010 08:58, Malcolm Phillips wrote:

Hi Ian,



Very interested in you mods to Bowthruster gearbox. Despite

changing

all my bearings and seals the water still gets in and I think

that the

stainless steel sleeve on the prop drive shaft is the answer.



I would therefore be grateful if you could e-mail the exact o/d of
your sleeve to suit the seal i/d if you have a note of this size.



Maybe then I can stop waking up everyone in the Marina every

time I

leave !



Regards,



Malcolm S/M 464 Bon Jovi.



From: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
< <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ian

Shepherd

Sent: 27 July 2010 16:39
To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
< <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Modifications





Hi Richard,

I am not sure if I mentioned that the stainless prop shaft bush

has been

in use for over three years with no signs of any adverse effect.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 02/07/2010 14:13, Richard03801 wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you

plan

between the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss

normally does

not work well. If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is

used as a

bearing surface. It may be that the bearing pack is stiff

enough to

hold the shaft from moving/touching. I guess time will tell.
Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd < <mailto:sv_freespirit@...%0b> sv_freespirit@...

< <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> < <mailto:sv_freespirit%20%0b> mailto:sv_freespirit

%40yahoo.co.uk>

< <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be detrimental

to the

original concept. Maybe so, but here are three modifications

that have

definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main engine

prop

shaft

bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I recently

hauled for

the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely no

wear

whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of the

surface

where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no

noticeable wear to

the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I changed

them

anyway.

This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on

the standard

bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much

longer with

the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term cost

saving too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M. There

was a

noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in

short seas.

The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and

because of this

maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain

and 100M of

rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker

together

with my

two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent

of 100M of

10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly seems

to be for

the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow

thruster,

which

seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of the

time. The

arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre shaft is

hardly

conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the shaft

and had it

machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the lip

seal

to run

on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings, which

were all

rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease. Of

course

this

prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube, so I

decided to

not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use

water

repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back

plate was

refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and

grease was

also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and the

lip seal.

This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster

has never

sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings running

is a sea

water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in

power

either.

Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this

winter to see

if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the

gears, but it

is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel

gears

will be

considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything

that reduces

wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader