Date   

Need crew for move from Norfolk ,VA to Portsmouth, NH

Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
 

Any ideas as to who I might hire for this move?
Roy Duddy
Duddy Law Offices
231 North Amherst Road
Bedford, NH 03110
603-472-8500
603-472-7333 Fax
rduddy@...


Re: [Amel] Dessalator High Pressure Hose on SM2K

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Mark if you can find a shop the makes up hydraulic hose you can get them to make you replacements. Those hoses have to be clean. The pump is a standard high pressure pump that you can source locally same as the OEM does. You can also check at other Water maker suppliers too.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 25, 2010, at 22:20, "Mark" <markghayden@...> wrote:

We're in Papeete and found we need to replace a high pressure hose on our watermaker. The Dessalator agent here is out of stock and says we should order fittings from France at some exorbitant price and wait a couple of weeks. I was wondering if anyone on this list can share their experiences with replacing their high pressure hoses with non-Dessalator parts. If we don't follow the Dessalator agent's advice and install another hose, we'd probably swap it back out with the manufacturer's part in several months when we get to NZ.

Thanks in advance, Mark


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Freezer/refrigerator thermostat for SM

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

I would love to know who installed the digital thermostat and where they
put it.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Judy and Bill aboard
SV BeBe
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 5:30 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Freezer/refrigerator thermostat for SM





Eric,

If you had the thermostats "freeze up" due to corrosion like I had, you
might try what I did. I removed the knobs and coated the exposed shafts with
CorrosionX. I let them sit for 24 hours and re-applied. I let this sit for
another 24 hours, reapplied, then used pliers to turn the shafts. First back
and forth about 10 degrees, increasing by about 10 degrees until I could
rotate the stems freely from min to max.

They have worked fin since this treatment about 6 months ago.

Veco told me the same thing and said that the digital thermostat they they
sell will work...it seems to me that I read in this group that someone had
installed the digital thermostats.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Hi,

I have a defective freezer refrigerator thermostat in my unit under the
settee seat. It has two knobs and a switch between the knobs.



Does anyone have a source for this? I tried Veco USA and they are out of
production. Has anyone installed a digital thermostat? If so where?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Dessalator High Pressure Hose on SM2K

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

The fittings on my Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite are re usable and the
hose can be bought at most hydraulic shops.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 10:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Dessalator High Pressure Hose on SM2K





We're in Papeete and found we need to replace a high pressure hose on our
watermaker. The Dessalator agent here is out of stock and says we should
order fittings from France at some exorbitant price and wait a couple of
weeks. I was wondering if anyone on this list can share their experiences
with replacing their high pressure hoses with non-Dessalator parts. If we
don't follow the Dessalator agent's advice and install another hose, we'd
probably swap it back out with the manufacturer's part in several months
when we get to NZ.

Thanks in advance, Mark


Dessalator High Pressure Hose on SM2K

Mark Hayden
 

We're in Papeete and found we need to replace a high pressure hose on our watermaker. The Dessalator agent here is out of stock and says we should order fittings from France at some exorbitant price and wait a couple of weeks. I was wondering if anyone on this list can share their experiences with replacing their high pressure hoses with non-Dessalator parts. If we don't follow the Dessalator agent's advice and install another hose, we'd probably swap it back out with the manufacturer's part in several months when we get to NZ.

Thanks in advance, Mark


Re: [Amel] Rub rail

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

We did the strip on our '83 Maramu and yes in deed it is nailed on you pre drill the holes under size and copper
Nail it It is easy.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 25, 2010, at 8:29, Graham Johnston <grahamjohnston42@...> wrote:

Hi David,
How is Prevaza Marine, please pass our regards on to George, we were there for 12 years up until 2002.

Our rubbing strip was a little sticky when we bought Zephyr last year so I tried cleaning it with a Scotchpad and Jif then cleaned again with Farecla G3. That removed the surface
tackiness and then I applied two coats of wax. It has held up so far but of course we are subject to rain rather than sun here as you well know!

The dirty streaks down the quarters can be minimised by machine polishing the area and keeping it well wax polished which encourages the dirt not to stick to the hull. We have only had to clean and wax once in the last 12 months but it if there is a better solution I would be delighted to hear it. We had the same problem with boat we kept in Prevaza but that had an aluminium toeral which left multiple dirty streaks which was even more irritating.

I was told by Amel that the rubbing strip was 'nailed' on, I don't know if something was lost in the translation or not but it did put me off renewing ours!

Regards
Graham
'Zephyr' Sharki 181









--- On Wed, 25/8/10, spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...> wrote:

From: spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>
Subject: [Amel] Rub rail
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, 25 August, 2010, 12:28



Hi Everyone
Has anyone replaced their rub rail? ours is probably original and gives off a greasy white deposit when touched, we spend lots of time cleaning the boat only to have all sorts of rubbish wash out from behind the rubrail shortly afterwards and dirty the hull again, we also have dirty streaks down the quarters caused by dirty water from behind the rub rail, it does it's job as a resilient bumper strip but detracts from the boat cosmetically. Any ideas?
Hazel and David Worthington
Sharki 148 Preveza Marina

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Rub rail

Geoffrey Tyers <geoffrey_tyers@...>
 

I have just replaced both rub rails on my sharki  #127.   The rail has a unique profile and was send from Amel France.   I can attest to the fact that the rail is in fact attached with S.S. nails.  The nails are twisted so that they rotate about 15 degrees when driven in.  They are driven from the underside

--- On Wed, 8/25/10, Graham Johnston <grahamjohnston42@...> wrote:


From: Graham Johnston <grahamjohnston42@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Rub rail
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, August 25, 2010, 8:29 AM


 



Hi David,
How is Prevaza Marine, please pass our regards on to George, we were there for 12 years up until 2002.
 
Our rubbing strip was a little sticky when we bought Zephyr last year so I tried cleaning it with a Scotchpad and Jif then cleaned again with Farecla G3. That removed the surface
tackiness and then I applied two coats of wax. It has held up so far but of course we are subject to rain rather than sun here as you well know!
 
The dirty streaks down the quarters can be minimised by machine polishing the area and keeping it well wax polished which encourages the dirt not to stick to the hull. We have only had to clean and wax once in the last 12 months but it if there is a better solution I would be delighted to hear it. We had the same problem with boat we kept in Prevaza but that had an aluminium toeral which left multiple dirty streaks which was even more irritating.
 
I was told by Amel that the rubbing strip was 'nailed' on, I don't know if something was lost in the translation or not but it did put me off renewing ours!
 
Regards
Graham
'Zephyr' Sharki 181
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

--- On Wed, 25/8/10, spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...> wrote:

From: spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>
Subject: [Amel] Rub rail
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, 25 August, 2010, 12:28

 

Hi Everyone
Has anyone replaced their rub rail? ours is probably original and gives off a greasy white deposit when touched, we spend lots of time cleaning the boat only to have all sorts of rubbish wash out from behind the rubrail shortly afterwards and dirty the hull again, we also have dirty streaks down the quarters caused by dirty water from behind the rub rail, it does it's job as a resilient bumper strip but detracts from the boat cosmetically. Any ideas?
Hazel and David Worthington
Sharki 148 Preveza Marina

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Furling and Outhaul Gearboxes

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi Kent,
If the motors and gearboxes are the same as on our 1989 Sharki then the motor brushes are standard and a good auto electrical shop should be able to source them. I got two complete sets for ours this winter and replaced the existing ones. £2.50 a pair for the outhaul and mast furling motors and £35.00 a pair for the genoa fuler motor. They are a 'hard' type with a very high copper content. I can look up more info if required.
 
If the outhaul and mast furling gearboxes are the same then they are a standard Bonfiglioli  V44 industrial worm drive gearbox available here in the UK for around £175.00 each, they use standard size bearings and seals. The gearbox oil is a fully synthetic type 320 which can be rather expensive.
 
Regards
Graham
'Zephyr' Sharki 181

--- On Wed, 25/8/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:


From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Furling and Outhaul Gearboxes
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, 25 August, 2010, 17:16


 



Hi, Craig, et al.
I'm having trouble finding parts for the main furler and outhaul gear boxes, and brushes for the motors for these units. I'm told that the motors are now "obsolete" and that the manufacturer no longer carries the brushes. Amel is quoting $890 ea for the gear boxes, $1962 ea for the motor/gearbox assemblies, and $11,083 for the genoa furler mechanism...plus taxes and shipping!!! I would surely like to avoid having to purchase new ones if the old ones can be overhauled enough to be safe. What spares would you carry for these units for sailing the S. Pacific?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:
" ...take this opportunity to open your jib furler gear box and thoroughly maintain it - replace all the seals plus bearings, especially if there's any sign of water ingress.
Caspar and Vito were recently talking here (on the DB) about grease leaking on the deck from the furler gearbox (it's probably not the grease inside the furler extrusion) - that's not normal and imho is the clarion call that you're overdue to open up the unit and fix it. Btw, these are all stock parts from mechanical suppliers so no need to go to the factory. Same thing for the outhaul and main furling gear boxes - may as well stick new brushes in the motors too, and burnish the commutators."











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Furling and Outhaul Gearboxes

karkauai
 

Hi, Craig, et al.
I'm having trouble finding parts for the main furler and outhaul gear boxes, and brushes for the motors for these units. I'm told that the motors are now "obsolete" and that the manufacturer no longer carries the brushes. Amel is quoting $890 ea for the gear boxes, $1962 ea for the motor/gearbox assemblies, and $11,083 for the genoa furler mechanism...plus taxes and shipping!!! I would surely like to avoid having to purchase new ones if the old ones can be overhauled enough to be safe. What spares would you carry for these units for sailing the S. Pacific?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:
" ...take this opportunity to open your jib furler gear box and thoroughly maintain it - replace all the seals plus bearings, especially if there's any sign of water ingress.
Caspar and Vito were recently talking here (on the DB) about grease leaking on the deck from the furler gearbox (it's probably not the grease inside the furler extrusion) - that's not normal and imho is the clarion call that you're overdue to open up the unit and fix it. Btw, these are all stock parts from mechanical suppliers so no need to go to the factory. Same thing for the outhaul and main furling gear boxes - may as well stick new brushes in the motors too, and burnish the commutators."


Re: [Amel] Rub rail

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi David,
How is Prevaza Marine, please pass our regards on to George, we were there for 12 years up until 2002.
 
Our rubbing strip was a little sticky when we bought Zephyr last year so I tried cleaning it with a Scotchpad and Jif then cleaned again with Farecla G3. That removed the surface
tackiness and then I applied two coats of wax. It has held up so far but of course we are subject to rain rather than sun here as you well know!
 
The dirty streaks down the quarters can be minimised by machine polishing the area and keeping it well wax polished which encourages the dirt not to stick to the hull. We have only had to clean and wax once in the last 12 months but it if there is a better solution I would be delighted to hear it. We had the same problem with boat we kept in Prevaza but that had an aluminium toeral which left multiple dirty streaks which was even more irritating.
 
I was told by Amel that the rubbing strip was 'nailed' on, I don't know if something was lost in the translation or not but it did put me off renewing ours!
 
Regards
Graham
'Zephyr' Sharki 181

--- On Wed, 25/8/10, spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...> wrote:


From: spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>
Subject: [Amel] Rub rail
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, 25 August, 2010, 12:28


 



Hi Everyone
Has anyone replaced their rub rail? ours is probably original and gives off a greasy white deposit when touched, we spend lots of time cleaning the boat only to have all sorts of rubbish wash out from behind the rubrail shortly afterwards and dirty the hull again, we also have dirty streaks down the quarters caused by dirty water from behind the rub rail, it does it's job as a resilient bumper strip but detracts from the boat cosmetically. Any ideas?
Hazel and David Worthington
Sharki 148 Preveza Marina











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rub rail

spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>
 

Hi Everyone
Has anyone replaced their rub rail? ours is probably original and gives off a greasy white deposit when touched, we spend lots of time cleaning the boat only to have all sorts of rubbish wash out from behind the rubrail shortly afterwards and dirty the hull again, we also have dirty streaks down the quarters caused by dirty water from behind the rub rail, it does it's job as a resilient bumper strip but detracts from the boat cosmetically. Any ideas?
Hazel and David Worthington
Sharki 148 Preveza Marina


Re: [Amel] B&G wind angle instrument

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ivar,

Look at this photo: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1976709260/pic/329859351/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

What you probably need is the B&G 213 Mast Head Unit Angle Bearing 213-10-004 - around $100USD.

I recently replaced the wind scoop/speed bearing on a B&G 213 MHU. When I removed the bearing (very simple) I found it to be tacky and would not spin freely.

Neither of these bearings can be serviced according to B&G...just replaced. I have my old one soaking in CorrosionX. I will let you know how this works in about a month.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently moving north up the Malacca Strait toward Langkawi
Blog: http://www.svbebe.com

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Lars H. Knudsen" <museum@...> wrote:

Hi Ivar



You can order a new bearing from B&G. It's expensive but will probably solve
your problem.



Regards,

Lars, Santorin #79


Re: [Amel] B&G wind angle instrument

Lars H. Knudsen <museum@...>
 

Hi Ivar



You can order a new bearing from B&G. It’s expensive but will probably solve
your problem.



Regards,

Lars, Santorin #79



Fra: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] På vegne af ivarmylde
Sendt: 24. august 2010 17:56
Til: amelyachtowners@...
Emne: [Amel] B&G wind angle instrument





My wind angle instrument is not working well. It only move between 180 and
270 degrees. Can anybody help - looks like wind arrow on mast working as it
should. I had same problem last year, but then after a week or two it came
right.

Ivar Mylde
SM#53


B&G wind angle instrument

ivarmylde <mylde@...>
 

My wind angle instrument is not working well. It only move between 180 and 270 degrees. Can anybody help - looks like wind arrow on mast working as it should. I had same problem last year, but then after a week or two it came right.

Ivar Mylde
SM#53


Recharging Redundancy

sbmesasailor
 

I hope this has not been covered in a previous post as I have only started monitoring this group. I have a 1982 Maramu with an alternator running off the free-wheeling propeller shaft. I have also installed an Air Breeze wind generator as well as 180 watts solar panels. The boat came with an ignition cut-off switch to prevent starting the engine while the prop shaft alternator was engaged as I assume the charge from the engine-run alternator will fry the shaft-run alternator. Does anyone know if the wind generator and/or the solar panels should be similarly isolated from frying this alternator?

Thanks
Dennis & Virginia Johns
sv Libertad


Tango 1 Corfu

Mary-Anne <maryanne_prunet@...>
 

Hello
Can anybody explain the picture and let us know what happened?
We have an Amel 54 and got the mast reinforced as one broke last winter one a sistership in Canaries...
Thanks very much and happy sailing

MA and C Prunet
Ultreia in Croatia


Re: [Amel] Amel 54 "Tango I" Riga

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Eric,
Actually I put it into my post with html. It showed up nicely when I posted it, but now I see my post has had non-text portions removed. But I did also (by mistake) put it into Cotton Bay's photo album. Basically, lots of very bent railings and chain plates and some raw and ripped fiberglass at the bow. What a shame!
Craig

--- In amelyachtowners@..., kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Where did you post the photo?
Eric


First pics AMEL 64 !!!!!!!!!!

luvkante
 

Dear friends,

when sailing my new AMEL 54 from La Rochelle to Varazze/Genoa, I had a stopover in Hyeres.

I made some photographs of the new AMEL 64 for everybody, who is curious and put it to

Photo Albums > First pics AMEL 64.

Fair winds,

AMEL 54 "CHIARA"


Re: [Amel] Modifications

Malcolm Phillips <MPhillips@...>
 

Hi Maurice and Heather,



Thanks for the info on speedy sleeve. This sounds like the answer. I will ask my seal supplier- Brammer to obtain the sleeves and the stainless spring.



Malcolm.



S/M 464 Bon Jovi



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Lars H. Knudsen
Sent: 22 August 2010 12:09
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: SV: [Amel] Modifications





I usually use mine sailing at speeds in excess of 5,5 knots and at 7 knots it will produce enough for fridge, autopilot, all instruments and still charge with 5-10 amps.
It is a great device but must be manually activated on the 12V panel via the key. It took me some time to figure this out as the green charging light may have a delay of half a minute before turning on.

/Lars, Santorin Salvagny

Fra: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] På vegne af Ivan Campbell
Sendt: 20. august 2010 09:07
Til: amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Emne: Re: [Amel] Modifications


Hi
I note you use the aquadrive alternator. On my Satorin I am unable to
measure any imput. What should the alternator produce. I amcrossing to
the Carribean and only have this and engine for charging

Thanks

Ivan Campbell

Ocean Hobo

On 18 Aug 2010, at 15:41, "sy_baracca" <sy_baracca@... <mailto:sy_baracca%40yahoo.co.nz> <mailto:sy_baracca%40yahoo.co.nz> > wrote:

I have been following this topic with some interest. A much simpler
way to provide a stainless steel bearing surface is to ask your
bearing supplier for a 'speedisleeve'. This is a very thin sleeve
designed to slip onto any standard size shaft to provide a new
surface for the oil seal to run on. Because of the thinness of the
sleeve standard size oil seals are used. The sleeve is simply held
in place with a thin smear of locktight. Since fitting these to my
main drive we have completed 980hrs using the engine plus a fair few
additional hours with the prop free wheeling driving the aqua drive
alternator ( our boat is a Santorin) without any water ingress to
the oil. The beauty is that you can simply slip them over your
existing bronze bush without any modification. BTY because there are
three seals on the main drive you will need two speedisleeves. I
haven't done it myself but I would assume a similar solution would
work for the bow thruster shaft. Your seal supplier should be able
to replace that standard seal springs with stainless ones, usually
at no extra charge. Hope this is of interest.

Maurice & Heather
SY Baracca
Santorin #41
--- In <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Ian Shepherd
< <mailto:sv_freespirit@...> sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Malcolm,

I am afraid that I have no note of the dimensions, but obviously it
should be as thin as practicable for the machinist else you run
the risk
of weakening the shaft. At a guess I would say that my sleeve was
about
15-20 thousands of an inch. Incidentally I was talking to a marine
engineer in Leros who is familiar with Amels. He said that all of
the
boats he has worked on did not have a stainless steel spring on
the bow
thruster lip seal. Another step for improvement perhaps?

Thanks for the tip on the motor ball race. I will take a look and
spray
some anti corrosive oil around the area.

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

On 28/07/2010 08:58, Malcolm Phillips wrote:

Hi Ian,



Very interested in you mods to Bowthruster gearbox. Despite
changing
all my bearings and seals the water still gets in and I think
that the
stainless steel sleeve on the prop drive shaft is the answer.



I would therefore be grateful if you could e-mail the exact o/d of
your sleeve to suit the seal i/d if you have a note of this size.



Maybe then I can stop waking up everyone in the Marina every
time I
leave !



Regards,



Malcolm S/M 464 Bon Jovi.



From: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
< <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Ian
Shepherd
Sent: 27 July 2010 16:39
To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
< <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Modifications





Hi Richard,

I am not sure if I mentioned that the stainless prop shaft bush
has been
in use for over three years with no signs of any adverse effect.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 02/07/2010 14:13, Richard03801 wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you
plan
between the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss
normally does
not work well. If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is
used as a
bearing surface. It may be that the bearing pack is stiff
enough to
hold the shaft from moving/touching. I guess time will tell.
Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd < <mailto:sv_freespirit@...%0b> sv_freespirit@...
< <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> < <mailto:sv_freespirit%20%0b> mailto:sv_freespirit
%40yahoo.co.uk>
< <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk> mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be detrimental
to the
original concept. Maybe so, but here are three modifications
that have
definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main engine
prop
shaft
bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I recently
hauled for
the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely no
wear
whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of the
surface
where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no
noticeable wear to
the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I changed
them
anyway.
This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on
the standard
bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much
longer with
the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term cost
saving too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M. There
was a
noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in
short seas.
The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and
because of this
maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain
and 100M of
rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker
together
with my
two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent
of 100M of
10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly seems
to be for
the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow
thruster,
which
seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of the
time. The
arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre shaft is
hardly
conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the shaft
and had it
machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the lip
seal
to run
on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings, which
were all
rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease. Of
course
this
prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube, so I
decided to
not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use
water
repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back
plate was
refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and
grease was
also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and the
lip seal.
This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster
has never
sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings running
is a sea
water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in
power
either.
Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this
winter to see
if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the
gears, but it
is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel
gears
will be
considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything
that reduces
wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader












Re: [Amel] Amel 54 "Tango I" Riga

RJ
 

Hello Craig and all,

I am told by Amel that Tango I collided with a ship, lost her forestay and
consequently her masts. Any boat but an Amel would probably have sunk.

Best regards,

Richard Amel 54

In a message dated 8/22/2010 9:15:33 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sangaris@... writes:





We happened across "Tango I" of Riga whilst at Gouvia Marina in Corfu,
Greece. Looks like she'd had a double dismastiing. A local chap though
it made the German papers but we hadn't seen anything - anyone know the
story? Sounds way too dramatic! Here's a pic: note the forward rail
missing, rest bent in (same on starboard side), chainplate bent right
over, etc. etc. Bow chainplate was ripped right out.

Cheers,

Craig - Santorin #68 "Sangaris" - in Corfu

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