Hello again Ian,



Hadn't read your response.



Thanks very much for your info on the bevel gears and I will
put a taper on the s/s sleeve as you suggest.



I'm now back in the UK from Turkey and will overhaul the
Bowthruster gearbox this winter.



I also recently replaced the 2 large foam washers on the
bowthruster tube which has kept the interior of the boat much
cleaner, the main benefit was of course to avoid any sea
water reaching the ball race at the bottom of the bowthruster
motor as I believe some S/M s have had this ballrace
disintegrate and burn out the motor - a very expensive problem !



I'm sure that the Schleiper unit will be a better option than
the Leroy Somers Motor.



Thanks again,



Malcolm S/M 464 Bon Jovi



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: 27 July 2010 16:36
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Modifications





Hi Malcom,

you should be OK. My bevel gears were 7 years old before I made the
modification, and I suspect they were running in emulsion for much of
their life. Certainly before the recent haul out, there was no oil left
at all in the housing when I took the thruster apart. I am just amazed
that this unit was designed with a single lip seal and such a poor seal
to shaft contact surface. I believe that Amel use a Schleiper made unit
on the 54. At least the demo I had a look at when they first came out
was fitted with one.

By the way, when I had the stainless sleeve made for the shaft, I had
the outer end tapered. This makes it easier for the seal to slide onto
the shaft without popping the spring off it's inner face. I bet there
are quite a few Amels out there with the spring dislodged. It's so easy
to do.

Good luck

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 05/07/2010 07:47, Malcolm Phillips wrote:

Eric/Ian,

You may be interested to note that the bearing spec on my
Redline 464 gives 2 sealed ball races and one open, ie the top
one which then allows you to fill with oil. I am very
impressed with Ian,s modifications which I may do when I next
overhaul the bow thrusters gearbox. Unfortunately on the first
overhaul I concluded that the bevel gears were worn after
running in emulsion for a year SO PACKING WITH WATERPROOF
GREASE MAY BE THE ONLY WAY OF GETTING A SWEETER SOUND BACK !

Malcolm

S/M 464 Bon Jovi

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: 03 July 2010 06:13
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Modifications

Ian,

As I understand what you wrote about the bow thruster you added a

sleeve

in
the shaft that is connected to the prp and replaced the bearings with
sealed
bearings and then packed the gearbox with grease.

Why can you not add oil from the top of the bow thruster?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of sv_crusader
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 12:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Modifications

Hello Richard,

the stainless bush was an exact copy of the bronze one, except that it
was
made with three grub screws instead of two to allow better centering.

Assembled with grease there are no signs of any Galling after over

three

years of use. In fact both the shaft and the bush look as new.

I am off for 10 weeks sailing this morning, so will be unable to reply
further until I find a wireless network to log on to, but I will be

glad

to
discuss further when I get back.

Regards

Ian SM414 Crusader (Headed for Mersin Eastern Turkey)

--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Richard03801
<richard03801@...>
wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you plan

between
the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss normally does not work
well.
If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is used as a bearing

surface.

It
may be that the bearing pack is stiff enough to hold the shaft from
moving/touching. I guess time will tell.

Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be detrimental to

the

original concept. Maybe so, but here are three modifications that

have

definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main engine prop

shaft

bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I recently

hauled

for

the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely no wear
whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of the

surface

where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no noticeable wear

to

the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I changed them

anyway.

This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on the

standard

bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much longer

with

the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term cost

saving

too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M. There was a
noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in short

seas.

The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and because of

this

maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain and

100M

of

rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker together

with

my

two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent of 100M

of

10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly seems to be

for

the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow thruster,

which

seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of the time.

The

arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre shaft is

hardly

conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the shaft and

had

it

machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the lip seal

to

run

on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings, which were

all

rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease. Of course

this

prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube, so I

decided to

not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use water
repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back plate was
refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and grease

was

also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and the lip

seal.

This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster has

never

sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings running is a

sea

water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in power

either.

Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this winter to

see

if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the gears,

but

it

is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel gears

will

be

considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything that

reduces

wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

Scanned by MailDefender - managed email security from intY -
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Hi Ian,



Very interested in you mods to Bowthruster gearbox. Despite changing all my bearings and seals the water still gets in and I think that the stainless steel sleeve on the prop drive shaft is the answer.



I would therefore be grateful if you could e-mail the exact o/d of your sleeve to suit the seal i/d if you have a note of this size.



Maybe then I can stop waking up everyone in the Marina every time I leave !



Regards,



Malcolm S/M 464 Bon Jovi.



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian Shepherd
Sent: 27 July 2010 16:39
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Modifications





Hi Richard,

I am not sure if I mentioned that the stainless prop shaft bush has been
in use for over three years with no signs of any adverse effect.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader

On 02/07/2010 14:13, Richard03801 wrote:

Thanks for the info. One question how much clearance did you plan
between the shaft and bushings? Metal to metal ss to ss normally does
not work well. If they touch they will Gaul as the bronze is used as a
bearing surface. It may be that the bearing pack is stiff enough to
hold the shaft from moving/touching. I guess time will tell.
Regards
Sent by Richard Piller

On Jul 1, 2010, at 5:55 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@... <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
<mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>> wrote:

I read recently that owners modifications can be detrimental to the
original concept. Maybe so, but here are three modifications that have
definitely improved my boat.

Three and a half years ago I replaced the bronze main engine prop shaft
bush with one made of high grade stainless steel. I recently hauled for
the first time since fitting it and there was absolutely no wear
whatsoever on the bush. Just a very slight polishing of the surface
where the lip seals mate to the bush. There was no noticeable wear to
the seals either after 600 hours of motoring, but I changed them

anyway.

This contrasts markedly to the normal wear experienced on the standard
bush. I believe that the maintenance interval is now much longer with
the stainless bush, and there is a worthwhile long term cost saving too.

I replaced the 70M of chain supplied by Amel with 90M. There was a
noticeable improvement in the boats motion particularly in short seas.
The boat pitches less, hardly ever slams any more and because of this
maintains a higher average speed. I also have 10M of chain and 100M of
rope for my second anchor stored in the forward locker together with my
two Fortress anchors, so in reality, I have the equivalent of 100M of
10mm chain in bow. The extra weight forward certainly seems to be for
the better.

I decided to try and improve the lubrication of the bow thruster, which
seems to have more sea water inside it than oil most of the time. The
arrangement of a single lip seal over a rough fibre shaft is hardly
conducive to keeping the sea water out. I removed the shaft and had it
machined down to accept a thin stainless sleeve for the lip seal to run
on. I then replaced the three open ball race bearings, which were all
rusty, with sealed bearings running in their own grease. Of course this
prevents you pouring the oil in via the top of the tube, so I

decided to

not use oil to lubricate the bevel gears, but instead use water
repellent grease.

This was packed into the gearbox housing before the back plate was
refitted, leaving a small gap to allow for expansion, and grease was
also placed between the outside of the outer bearing and the lip seal.
This was done about four months ago, and the bow thruster has never
sounded sweeter. Gone is the awful sound of bearings running is a sea
water emulsion, and there does not seem to be any loss in power either.
Time will tell, and I shall remove the bow thruster this winter to see
if the modifications have had any adverse effects on the gears, but it
is my guess that the life of the seal, bearings and bevel gears will be
considerably increased.

As they say, cruising is fixing things on water. Anything that reduces
wear and subsequent failure must be for the better.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

The lip seals are made by Paulestra in France.

I have written them for other sources .

I also have written to a friend of mine at Renault to find out where we can get the companionway seal.
lip seal

Paulestra #
792620
IEL 30-45-5
ca 1 of

Fair Winds,
eric
sm 376

Dear Giovanni,
ABORA is in Trinidad at Peak. We are at home in Heidelberg till end of november.
Last season we made trinidad-BVI-Trinidad.
From Dec we will go to ABC Islands , Carthagena, St Blas, ....till French
Polynesia.

Regards

Wolfgang
SM 2000 ABORA




________________________________
Von: Giovanni Testa <gtesta23@...>
An: amelyachtowners@...
Gesendet: Sonntag, den 25. Juli 2010, 13:03:15 Uhr
Betreff: Re: [Amel] Storage at RAIATEA

 
Hi to all,
thanks so much Tom and Wolfgang for infos for storage in Raiatea.
I wrote to CNI, but for now no answer.
Wolfgang, where are you ? Wich was your route ?
All the best
Gianni
EUTIKIA
SM2K 428

Hi Richard,

I am not sure if I mentioned that the stainless prop shaft bush has been
in use for over three years with no signs of any adverse effect.

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader

Hi Malcom,

you should be OK. My bevel gears were 7 years old before I made the
modification, and I suspect they were running in emulsion for much of
their life. Certainly before the recent haul out, there was no oil left
at all in the housing when I took the thruster apart. I am just amazed
that this unit was designed with a single lip seal and such a poor seal
to shaft contact surface. I believe that Amel use a Schleiper made unit
on the 54. At least the demo I had a look at when they first came out
was fitted with one.

By the way, when I had the stainless sleeve made for the shaft, I had
the outer end tapered. This makes it easier for the seal to slide onto
the shaft without popping the spring off it's inner face. I bet there
are quite a few Amels out there with the spring dislodged. It's so easy
to do.

Good luck

Ian SM 414 Crusader

Hi Erick and all who helped with this problem,

I read your post two days after I finally cured the problem. Our cases are very similar. Having decided to have one final go at finding the cause, I removed the impeller pump completely from the genset. Removing the end cover revealed a perfect set of impeller blades. I had done this before and naturally assumed that the impeller was good, especially as I had only recently changed it. I decided however to extract the impeller and check the inlet and outlet holes for any debris. This revealed the root of the problem, which in many ways resembled yours.

There was a considerable build up of corrosion part way around the inside corner of the impeller housing. Instead of a neat right angle between the inner face of the housing and the circular face that the tips of the blades squeeze against, about one third of the circumference was raised and had dog eared the blades as they rotated over this rough area on the inner side of the blades only. Not enough to stop the pump working when the boat was stationary, but enough for water not to be drawn up to the pump after movement on the boat through the water had siphoned the water level below the sea chest pipe elbow.

Having put vinegar and my best toothbrush to work on the corrosion and changed the impeller, I am very happy to report that even during an 8 kt sail in moderate seas, the generator started and kept running without problem. Yee Ha!

What I have not yet been able to do is to see whether water is still drawn back down the inlet pipe when the boat is sailing now that the impeller blades fit the housing properly. It was too rough to safely remove my folding cycle from it's stowage in front of the sea chest, but I shall endeavour to do so in the next few days. If this still is the case, then I shall try and find a non return valve and fit it in the inlet pipe to the impeller. I don't believe that these impellers were deisgned to run dry whilst drawing water to the pump, and anything that prevents this must improve their life.

Problem solved. Many thanks to all of you that went to the trouble to help out. Moral of the story? Never assume anything!

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader


On 05/07/2010 19:24, G D wrote

Hi Richard,
thanks so much will do exactly so (in 2 months when back to the boat...)




________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, July 25, 2010 6:56:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] We have just bought our Santorin 1992 - few questions...

 
Hi there should be a number on the prop that is the diameter and pitch Send it
To Amel or post it. At 2400 in flat water and a clean bottom make better then 7
kts. Do you have an alternator on the prop a
Shaft or is there a brake? What color is the transmission oil? Does it smell
burned?

Regarding the speed censor get a powerful light on a dark night. Place it inside
the boat lighting the area of the censor go outside and see if you can see
light. You may have to remove the bottom Paint in the area cracks will show up
looking like a spider web. If you see the fix it. Good luck

Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 22, 2010, at 17:27, Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Hi,
We have just bought our Santorin 1992 hull #69 last week and we have put her on

dry for couple of months. We have few questions on issues we have observed and

wanted to have some good advice from Amel owners; sorry for asking all this at

once but it will be understood if will get answers in pieces…:
1. When hauled out, unfortunately the crane operator chose to ignore our
directions and put the strip over the sonic speed sensor – not sure if any
damage but seem like the cover has smashed a bit in a way it created some space

between the sensor and the cover –

a. can water come in the boat from there when relaunching?
b. should the gap created be filled with polyester?
2. We have also observed a vertical scratch on the ‘wing’ holding the
rudder just below the lower spindle going down – I wouldn’t spend time to ask
this unless the scratch is just parallel to copper line which was revealed, is

there a specific sensitivity in this area? Or just a scratch to be covered with

polyester?
3. The engine is the original and seems to be ok, never overhauled with
approx 2,500hrs, the only thing it appears to be a bit lazy with speed of 5
knots in flat see (2,900-3,000 rpm).

a. what is the recommended highest rpm for cruising?
b. will change of prop or pitch will lead to better result (it looks like the
prop is designed for more power rather than speed)?
4. To clean the bilge area, any problem to use the chemicals for this
purpose?
5. I would like to add an air condition for the next summer – 16btu for aft
and main cabin sounds ok?
6. The false teak deck needs attention – which paint? What method?
7. Should the iron keel be sand blasted after sometime? Our iron piece
doesn’t look smooth and it might time for it – any tips?
8. Last question – any recommendation for good boat yard Greece to perform
repairs?

Otherwise we very happy with our Santorin.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi again that motor with the right prop will run 24/7 at 2000-2200 pushing her Long at 6 kts or better depending on prop sea And your bottom being clean.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 24, 2010, at 14:22, Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Thanks for the info Richard, Ric and Deborah,

As per the engine / prop - anymore feedbacks as well as any experience with
modifiation of propeller? as well, what is the recommended cruising RPM for such
engine original (Perkins)

Aircondition???

As per the sensor - it doesn't look broken, only that the housing is a bit
deformed could water come in? can i just fill around?

As per the side in Greece - we are East currently.

The deep scratch - will take this as deep scrath to be patched.

The keel - I take this as to only patch if at all, did not see serious rust.

Thanks, Belit

________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, July 24, 2010 2:16:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: We have just bought our Santorin 1992 - few questions...


Hi regarding the speed censor what ever side he broke needs to be repaired
before going in. It is suggest you remove and clean the area block off out side
fill the hole with barrier type epoxie drill a new hole at the same angle to be
sure the two censors are in alining properly. Do not take any short cuts with
this fix. If you are not comfortable ask Amel for send a man to do it and have
him bring the parts along.

You will find info on this site regarding painting the decks.

The copper and the crack w/o see it can't help you.

Regarding the keal it is cover with gelcoat type material if you blast it away
read the West Systems web site for the fix which is 15 coats of barrier coat to.
Keep it from leaking and rusting. Better you clean it up and better assess the
problem. If you need to do some work sand clean and coat with epoxy and barrier
coat right away do not let light rust start or it will not bond

Good luck And while it is out and dry check for blister and fix them per West
SYS N
Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 23, 2010, at 13:44, "deborah" <woodsdeborah_56@...> wrote:

Hi

Is it East coast of Greece or West? We have a few contacts in the West if this
would be of any help


Regards

Deb and John
Orion1 (Maramu)

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Hi,
We have just bought our Santorin 1992 hull #69 last week and we have put her

on

dry for couple of months. We have few questions on issues we have observed

and

wanted to have some good advice from Amel owners; sorry for asking all this

at

once but it will be understood if will get answers in pieces…:
1.     When hauled out, unfortunately the crane operator chose to ignore

our

directions and put the strip over the sonic speed sensor â€" not sure if any

damage but seem like the cover has smashed a bit in a way it created some

space

between the sensor and the cover â€"

a. can water come in the boat from there when relaunching?
b. should the gap created be filled with polyester?
2.     We have also observed a vertical scratch on the ‘wing’

holding the

rudder just below the lower spindle going down â€" I wouldn’t spend time to

ask o

this unless the scratch is just parallel to copper line which was revealed,

is

there a specific sensitivity in this area? Or just a scratch to be covered

with

polyester?
3.     The engine is the original and seems to be ok, never overhauled

with

approx 2,500hrs, the only thing it appears to be a bit lazy with speed of 5
knots in flat see (2,900-3,000 rpm).

a. what is the recommended highest rpm for cruising?
b. will change of prop or pitch will lead to better result (it looks like the

prop is designed for more power rather than speed)?
4.     To clean the bilge area, any problem to use the chemicals for

this

purpose?
5.     I would like to add an air condition for the next summer â€"

16btu for aft

and main cabin sounds ok?
6.     The false teak deck needs attention â€" which paint? What

method?

7.     Should the iron keel be sand blasted after sometime? Our iron

piece

doesn’t look smooth and it might time for it â€" any tips?
8.     Last question â€" any recommendation for good boat yard Greece to

perform

repairs?
Â
Otherwise we very happy with our Santorin.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi there should be a number on the prop that is the diameter and pitch Send it To Amel or post it. At 2400 in flat water and a clean bottom make better then 7 kts. Do you have an alternator on the prop a
Shaft or is there a brake? What color is the transmission oil? Does it smell burned?

Regarding the speed censor get a powerful light on a dark night. Place it inside the boat lighting the area of the censor go outside and see if you can see light. You may have to remove the bottom Paint in the area cracks will show up looking like a spider web. If you see the fix it. Good luck
Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 22, 2010, at 17:27, Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Hi,
We have just bought our Santorin 1992 hull #69 last week and we have put her on
dry for couple of months. We have few questions on issues we have observed and
wanted to have some good advice from Amel owners; sorry for asking all this at
once but it will be understood if will get answers in pieces…:
1. When hauled out, unfortunately the crane operator chose to ignore our
directions and put the strip over the sonic speed sensor – not sure if any
damage but seem like the cover has smashed a bit in a way it created some space
between the sensor and the cover –

a. can water come in the boat from there when relaunching?
b. should the gap created be filled with polyester?
2. We have also observed a vertical scratch on the ‘wing’ holding the
rudder just below the lower spindle going down – I wouldn’t spend time to ask
this unless the scratch is just parallel to copper line which was revealed, is
there a specific sensitivity in this area? Or just a scratch to be covered with
polyester?
3. The engine is the original and seems to be ok, never overhauled with
approx 2,500hrs, the only thing it appears to be a bit lazy with speed of 5
knots in flat see (2,900-3,000 rpm).

a. what is the recommended highest rpm for cruising?
b. will change of prop or pitch will lead to better result (it looks like the
prop is designed for more power rather than speed)?
4. To clean the bilge area, any problem to use the chemicals for this
purpose?
5. I would like to add an air condition for the next summer – 16btu for aft
and main cabin sounds ok?
6. The false teak deck needs attention – which paint? What method?
7. Should the iron keel be sand blasted after sometime? Our iron piece
doesn’t look smooth and it might time for it – any tips?
8. Last question – any recommendation for good boat yard Greece to perform
repairs?

Otherwise we very happy with our Santorin.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi to all,
thanks so much Tom and Wolfgang for infos for storage in Raiatea.
I wrote to CNI, but for now no answer.
Wolfgang, where are you ? Wich was your route ?
All the best
Gianni
EUTIKIA
SM2K 428

Dear Gianni,
I am Wolfgang Buelow from ABORA.
We made the ARC in 2007 together. I am planning to store my Amel from 8 or 9 /
2011 in Raiatea.
I got from a German Boat ( Mignon) the information that the CNI Marina is a good
choice.
They have special cradels to take the boat out of the water and store it on
these cradels.

Best Regards
Wolfgang Buelow
 SY  ABORA
Super Maramu 2000  Nr 405



________________________________
Von: eutikia2003 <gtesta23@...>
An: amelyachtowners@...
Gesendet: Dienstag, den 13. Juli 2010, 18:49:53 Uhr
Betreff: [Amel] Storage at RAIATEA

 
Hi to all,
for the next season, from October 2011 to March 2012, I'm planning to leave on
the hard at Raiatea my boat Eutikia.
Ther'are two possibilties : Raiatea Carenage Services and Chantier Naval des
Iles Sous Le Vent.
Do you have some experiences about these yards ?
thanks so much for comments and suggestions
fair winds
Gianni TESTA
SV EUTIKIA
SM2K n 428

Thanks for the info Richard, Ric and Deborah,

As per the engine / prop - anymore feedbacks as well as any experience with
modifiation of propeller? as well, what is the recommended cruising RPM for such
engine original (Perkins)

Aircondition???

As per the sensor - it doesn't look broken, only that the housing is a bit
deformed could water come in? can i just fill around?

As per the side in Greece - we are East currently.

The deep scratch - will take this as deep scrath to be patched.


The keel - I take this as to only patch if at all, did not see serious rust.

Thanks, Belit




________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, July 24, 2010 2:16:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: We have just bought our Santorin 1992 - few questions...

 
Hi regarding the speed censor what ever side he broke needs to be repaired
before going in. It is suggest you remove and clean the area block off out side
fill the hole with barrier type epoxie drill a new hole at the same angle to be
sure the two censors are in alining properly. Do not take any short cuts with
this fix. If you are not comfortable ask Amel for send a man to do it and have
him bring the parts along.

You will find info on this site regarding painting the decks.

The copper and the crack w/o see it can't help you.

Regarding the keal it is cover with gelcoat type material if you blast it away
read the West Systems web site for the fix which is 15 coats of barrier coat to.
Keep it from leaking and rusting. Better you clean it up and better assess the
problem. If you need to do some work sand clean and coat with epoxy and barrier
coat right away do not let light rust start or it will not bond

Good luck And while it is out and dry check for blister and fix them per West
SYS N
Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 23, 2010, at 13:44, "deborah" <woodsdeborah_56@...> wrote:

Hi

Is it East coast of Greece or West? We have a few contacts in the West if this
would be of any help


Regards

Deb and John
Orion1 (Maramu)

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Hi,
We have just bought our Santorin 1992 hull #69 last week and we have put her

on

dry for couple of months. We have few questions on issues we have observed

and

wanted to have some good advice from Amel owners; sorry for asking all this

at

once but it will be understood if will get answers in pieces…:
1.     When hauled out, unfortunately the crane operator chose to ignore

our

directions and put the strip over the sonic speed sensor â€" not sure if any

damage but seem like the cover has smashed a bit in a way it created some

space

between the sensor and the cover â€"

a. can water come in the boat from there when relaunching?
b. should the gap created be filled with polyester?
2.     We have also observed a vertical scratch on the ‘wing’

holding the

rudder just below the lower spindle going down â€" I wouldn’t spend time to

ask o

this unless the scratch is just parallel to copper line which was revealed,

is

there a specific sensitivity in this area? Or just a scratch to be covered

with

polyester?
3.     The engine is the original and seems to be ok, never overhauled

with

approx 2,500hrs, the only thing it appears to be a bit lazy with speed of 5
knots in flat see (2,900-3,000 rpm).

a. what is the recommended highest rpm for cruising?
b. will change of prop or pitch will lead to better result (it looks like the

prop is designed for more power rather than speed)?
4.     To clean the bilge area, any problem to use the chemicals for

this

purpose?
5.     I would like to add an air condition for the next summer â€"

16btu for aft

and main cabin sounds ok?
6.     The false teak deck needs attention â€" which paint? What

method?

7.     Should the iron keel be sand blasted after sometime? Our iron

piece

doesn’t look smooth and it might time for it â€" any tips?
8.     Last question â€" any recommendation for good boat yard Greece to

perform

repairs?
Â
Otherwise we very happy with our Santorin.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bonjour,

Another solution,

I put car optical head lights with standard H3 / 24 V. bulb.
I bought it in Singapore, but I suppose it does exist everywhere.

I yesterday in Greece paid 6 Euros for a replacement bulb.

Only drawback, you have to put a protective coat on the back of optical to avoid sea corrosion.

Regards


BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-07-24

----- Message reçu -----
De : jlm@...
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-07-08, 14:38:18
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Foredeck Light


In Barcelona they ask me more than 75 EUROS !!!! (50 EUR in France)
With lock I found it on Internet at :
https://www.prolighting.de/Artikel/333/206/PAR_36_OMNILUX_PAR_36_28V_50W_NSP_400h.htm
for 7 EUROS !!!
Merci Internet
JLuc
CottonBay
SM316
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Le 01/07/2010 10:16, Malcolm Phillips a écrit :

Hi Eric.

The foredeck light is a sealed beam unit the same as the one
mounted on the mizzen and is used in light aircraft and can
be usually purchased locally.

Having just replaced mine I will send you the name next week.
However, I was forced to purchase the complete assembly of
steaming light, foredeck light and plastic shroud from Amel as
the plastic shroud was broken - an expensive option. It comes
complete with the 2 light fittings and has to be riveted to
the mast- a somewhat tricky operation at that height as a
large rivet gun is needed and the shroud has to be secured
in position round the curvature of the mast.

Regards,

Malcolm.

S/M # 464 Bon Jovi

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: 01 July 2010 05:50
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Foredeck Light

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the foredeck light mounted just
below
the steaming light?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

We have never had an issues with our F10 opening in 5 years of sailing and
we have been in some really nasty seas - recently for two hours we were
airborne more time than we were in the water - at least it felt like that -
however if you drop the boat off a wave hard enough the laws of physics will
start acting on the handle and it will unlatch a simple fix would be a piece
of line or a bungy cord with a hook that physically stops the handle from
reacting to the forces of gravity or even a wooden wedge that you drop down
between the handle and the door to provide a positive safety catch.

regards

David

On 24 July 2010 02:57, Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

We replaced our old Eno with a Force 10 right after purchasing our Maramu.
The propane system had been removed by the previous owner so I figured since
we had to start from scratch we should replace the aging stove.

We have been dissatisfied with the Force 10 since taking the boat cruising.
On two occasions while underway and cooking, the oven door has opened by
itself. On one of these occasions Jean would have been scalded if she didn't
have her foul weather pants on. On our recent trip up the Baja coast it
happened again when the boat came off a wave. We had some eggs stored inside
the oven at the time and it made quite a mess on the floor.

We plan to investigate a replacement unit when we reach Australia since
there are some brands there that are not available in the US and so much of
the Australian and Kiwi gear seems better made than what is foisted on us in
North America.

--- In amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

I just had my 3 burner Force10 out for cleaning and found that the hose

had been replaced...but too short to get the stove all the way out. I'll
put a new reinforced one on it this time. Thanks Eric.

Kent
SM243
KRISTY

--- On Tue, 7/20/10, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:


From: kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
Subject: [Amel] DANGER WARNING
To: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 20, 2010, 12:39 AM


Â



I tried to post photos of my stove hose on the photo section but I am not
permitted for some reason.

We had to remove the stove for repairs, a 4 burner Eno stove. To my
amazement and horror the swinging of the stove in the ocean had cut half

way

through the hose between the stove and the copper pipe. I was fortunate

to

be in St Martin where they made a hydraulic hose for me rated at 6500 psi
with a steel braid core.

The Amel hose is rubber a cloth mesh and more rubber, Check yours before

a

big boom happen.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ingo,

Becoming an owner of an Amel is close to joining a cult. This group is an example of the level of concern and admiration that most Amel owners have of their Amel. In fact, there is about 1 member in this group for possibly every Amel built.

Ah, the price? I believe you should do one of two things in selecting and establishing the value of your Amel: My first choice would be to seek the advice of Joel Potter, in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, USA Phone: +1 (954) 462-5869 Email: jfpottercys"at"att.net (substitute the "at" with a @). If this will not work for you, ask for some advice from an Amel owner. There has to be an owner near you and if you do not know one, you could use this site to find one.

As for the benefits & weaknesses, ask which ever person you use above.

BTW, I have witnessed 3 surveyors who did not have a clue how to fully survey an Amel. They were all confused with the simplicity of the proprietary systems and one surveyor had the audacity to include in his survey some advice for Henri Amel which was ridiculous, like a school boy correcting the professor.

BeBe currently has 2 adults and two children aboard...me, my wife and two children - 1 eight and the other nine . We find it quite comfortable with plenty of room.

FYI, I recently saw an 1985 Mango for about 190,000 Euro that was a bargain for its condition. It sold for the asking price to someone moving up from a Sharki.

I hope this helps you and I hope you join the "club."

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia
Blog: http://www.svbebe.com

Ingo,

You may be well served to find a "buyers broker" which costs you nothing since sales commissions are paid by the seller. Your broker can supply you with actual sales history via soldboats.com

This means you learn exactly what the boats have sold for in the past.

One caveat. Have the results sorted in such a way that the currency displayed matches the currency the boat was sold in. For instance if you look at a boat that was sold in the US and have the result display in Euros, you will get a figure based on today's exchange rate rather than the exchange rate at time of sale.

As far as sailing with kids you may want to find a yacht that will provide them with their own staterooms. Amel is a fantastic cruising boat but it has always been designed around the needs of a couple rather than family with kids. From my own experience cruising and observing families, I think the separate staterooms for each child are a good thing.

Regards,
Dave Benjamin
S/V Exit Strategy
Maramu #29

We replaced our old Eno with a Force 10 right after purchasing our Maramu. The propane system had been removed by the previous owner so I figured since we had to start from scratch we should replace the aging stove.

We have been dissatisfied with the Force 10 since taking the boat cruising. On two occasions while underway and cooking, the oven door has opened by itself. On one of these occasions Jean would have been scalded if she didn't have her foul weather pants on. On our recent trip up the Baja coast it happened again when the boat came off a wave. We had some eggs stored inside the oven at the time and it made quite a mess on the floor.

We plan to investigate a replacement unit when we reach Australia since there are some brands there that are not available in the US and so much of the Australian and Kiwi gear seems better made than what is foisted on us in North America.

Hi Jim,

I forwarded it to my friend Roberto Labrador.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of assistanttoblackdog
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:25 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Crew available for trans Atlantic







Hi Eric,

I emailed you about an opportunity in this regard at your "at"optonline
address. Did you receive it?

Thanks,

Jim

Hi regarding the speed censor what ever side he broke needs to be repaired before going in. It is suggest you remove and clean the area block off out side fill the hole with barrier type epoxie drill a new hole at the same angle to be sure the two censors are in alining properly. Do not take any short cuts with this fix. If you are not comfortable ask Amel for send a man to do it and have him bring the parts along.

You will find info on this site regarding painting the decks.

The copper and the crack w/o see it can't help you.

Regarding the keal it is cover with gelcoat type material if you blast it away read the West Systems web site for the fix which is 15 coats of barrier coat to. Keep it from leaking and rusting. Better you clean it up and better assess the problem. If you need to do some work sand clean and coat with epoxy and barrier coat right away do not let light rust start or it will not bond
Good luck And while it is out and dry check for blister and fix them per West SYS N
Regards
Richard Piller