Hi Anthony
I did install an Aerogen 400 on top of my SM mizzen. It has bee there for ten years now and it works. However I wont do it again as I found it useless. It brings very little power, once in a while when conditions are optimum, it is noisy and if one of the blade becomes unbalanced the vibrations travels all the way down the mizzen mast. You have to check regularly the silent blocks as sun, salt, heat and rubber don't get along well.
In my opinion the SM or the 54 are too much energy consumer boats to expect covering the energy consumption with solar panels or wind generator . You will never cover your needs fully. When conditions are good it will save you half an hour of power generator a day at most? It is not worth the trouble. Unless you cut down your electrical consumption drastically, no electronic, no autopilot no fridge, no music, no entertainment, nothing in fact (which is purposely not the right way to enjoy a SM or a 54) it does not bring enough benefit.
Erick

I would like to install a six kilo Air Breeze wind generator on top of the mizzen mast.

Is there anyone who has already made such an installation and who could give me all details about the necessary support post of this installation?

With thanks in advance

Anthony

Thanks, Mike.  I think I've got it now.
Happy Sailing,
Kent

Hi All,
   Fundamentally, for twice the voltage you need half the current to get the same power (Ohms Law - W=IxV), and as the thickness of the conductor determines the current carrying capacity, thus 120V (US) cables are generally thicker than 240V (rest of world) for the same required load.
   This is oversimplified, as slightly different rules apply with ac inductive loads, (motors etc), but it is a good "rule of thumb"
   If wires carrying loads get warm, then the first place to look is at the connections, as heat in wires is generated by high resistance and the plugs and sockets are the most probable culprits. Electrical cables transfer heat almost as well as electricity!. Clean water resistant contacts will eliminate most problems. ( I use lanolin grease - natural product and lasts well)
   If your wire is warm in the middle only, then you could have some damage, internally, at that point. Don't try to fix it - replace the cable!
   Hope this helps.

Mike
Santorin Akwaaba
Also retired electrical engineer

gesendet von meinem HTC HD2
<dr.hofschulte@...>

Hi there, thought I'd weigh into this with a comment, (question) that my understanding of the reason for larger boats being fitted with 24 volt systems is that they require smaller cables than 12 volt and given the distances and the loom sizes on the Amel it is the only way to go. I believe the same applies to 110 and 220, perhaps hence the smaller shore cable from Europe.  Any electician like to confirm or deny this? 
Regards
Danny and Yvonne
Ocean Pearl. SM299

I LOVE this forum! To all who have chimed in, Craig, Richard, Gary and Serge...Thank you for your input. My head is now in line with my gut and I am comfortable leaving the wiring as-is. Gary, I will install a 220 monitor so I can keep track of what I'm actuall getting and using. It will also help to monitor the genset's output. I'll monitor the wire temp carefully and adjust my usage if it's getting a bit too warm. If I find I'm not able to use what I want to (not likely while in the temperate/tropical zones), I'll consider upgrading the shore power cables. I'll straighten out the cables if there's any excess and change the posts to busses, too, Serge.

Thanks again to all, happy sailing!
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

Thanks for a good explanation we too will stick to the Amel supplied wire

Regards
Richard Piller

On Nov 11, 2010, at 11:47, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Kent and all:

By way of explanation:
220 AC (alternating current): Picture a wave on the ocean (actually a sine wave). You measure the height of the wave from the trough to the peak and come up with 220 feet, (it is a really big wave). The boat sees that wave and thinks, "wow, that is a big wave". The boat doesn't KNOW whether the 220 feet from peak to trough is measured relative to mean sea level, mean low tide, or mean high tide. All the boat KNOWS is that it is a 220 ft wave. Now if the wave passes under the boat (hopefully) 60 times a second, that is equivalent to sixty hertz. If it passes under the boat 50 times a second, that is equivalent to 50 hertz (a hertz is a cycle per second when speaking of all things electrical). I think you can see that more energy is expended/used/dissipated by the boat going up and down 60 times a second compared to going up and down over the waves at 50 times per second.

Now to electricity. The load (washer, microwave, heater or whatever is using electricity) doesn't know if it is seeing 220 volts generated in Europe or in the US (actually EMF or electromotive force). All the load sees is the peak to peak change in voltage and that is identical in the US or Europe except for hertz. The difference between 220 volt European power and 220 volt US power is only in Hertz and the color codes of the wires. The load sees no difference in voltage but does run at a different speed due to the difference in Hertz. Granted less work is done per minute by European power (fewer cycles) than by US power. Motors and electronics using timers etc are sensitive to the hertz (frequency) of the power. Grounding and bonding are different between the US and Europe but that is a whole different story. Neutral in the US (white wire in household US wiring) is just that. It is Neutral, that means that it SEEs the sine wave power at 1/2 way between the peak and the trough of the wave 220 volt wave. Since it only SEES 1/2 of the wave height it only SEEs 110 volts. In the ocean wave analogy, Neutral is 1/2 way between the peak and trough of the wave.

On my Amel SM Hull 335, the 220 volt cable is sized for 30 Amps at 50 hertz.. I have the 110 volt cable with the 110 to 220 volt step up transformer (installed as an option by Amel with the change over box in the engine room) like you. You have to be able to draw 60 amps at 110 volts to equal 220 volts at 30 amps. Furthermore, when plugged into 60 hertz power that cable must be able to handle more POWER than when plugged into 50 hertz power. I do not know the amperage ratting of the transformer but 60 amps is a fair amount of power. Consider that the average US house has 200 amp service. I sized a 60 foot extension cord for my Amel that could handle 60 amps at 60 hertz.. My thinking was that, that way I could use it for either 110 or 220 power. This was a mistake on my part since the cable is 1 inch in diameter and weighs about 100 lbs. I paid about $500 for this cord and couldn't return it, so I lug it around being mad every time I use it. Even if you upgrade your Amel 110 volt cable, the wiring downstream in the boat (i.e. from the garage to the step up transformer might need to be upgraded too. I suggest that you just use a little less power, and install a multimeter before the 220 volt panel that will show you Watts, Volts, Hertz, Amps, and that way you can monitor your power usage. See my Photo section under watermaker service (I think that is where I put a picture of my multimeter). I will post subsequently with a link to the vendor.

Don't feel bad about getting different answers about this from most electricians. My experience is that 95 % of US electricians don't have a clue about European power. By the way, as you know, we in the US are a minority in the world for our power. Virtually the rest of the world uses 220 volt /50 hertz power.

Hope this helps.

Gary Silver

Amel SM #335 s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Thanks, Craig. That makes very good sense for the 110 cable. I'm still not sure why we can get by with such a small 220 cable compared to what's recommended in the US, and why it makes a difference (or if it even does) if we're using EU 220 or US 220 to what size shore power cable we need. Is it just the difference between EU 220 50Hz and US 120/240 60Hz? If so that's a huge difference in cable size for a 9% difference in voltage and a 20% difference in Hz (the difference in Hz really doesn't alter the Amperage, does it?). I don't know if I'm really as dumb as I feel about this stuff, but I get a different answer from every electrician I deal with...and now this one (who seems sharper than the average) is strongly recommending that I change the 220 shore power cable to a much larger one (~1inch dia) at great expense. My gut tells me no, but I'm trying to get my head in line, too.
Thanks again to all.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,
I did change my Amel 220 v/ac cable to a twice as large section cable and
also much longer (30m or 100f), the basic reason was that it was warm in a
section that was slightly damaged on the exterior but, I felt, might also be
damaged inside. I did make numerous cuts to find that a portion of the brown
wire was oxydised. The longer wire was also necessary to get to the AC outlet in
the Port-St-Louis yard in France.

Since then the longer cable has proven to be most helpful, not only in shipyards
but also marinas where the closest outlet is more than 50ft from the boat AC
inlet. As a north-american I had a limited experience with 220 v/ac and was
unaware that the cable must not be tighly wound in circles, as the voltage
creates a resistance (like the winding of a transformer or of a choke) which not
only drops the voltage at the end of the cable, but generates heat in the coiled
loops. This is the reason why 220 v/ac houseold extensions sold in a rolling
storage drum must be completely extended before use, if you want your tool to
run at full power. This is usually written in the caution notice of this type of
extension!

BTW, i did redo part of my 12v/dc and 220v/ac circuits as some of the wiring
used by the yard was hard core (illegal in a boat under Canadian legislation,
but also under French legislation) and some busses did have more than 3 wires
connected and, after 20 years at sea, some of the wiring exposed in the engine
space or in the electrical cabinet above the fridge appeared frailed. However I
did maintain the high quality standard of the Amel yard for soldered terminals
with heatshrink tubing protection.

I also redesigned a main 12v/dc control panel after the windlass breaker switch
failed and discovering that the main rotary battery switch had numerous arching
holes on its inside contact plate. If anyone is interested I could post pictures
of the new main control where all interconnected hi amp breakers or switches are
connected by solid 5mm x 20mm solid brass bar

Serge      V Opera, Mango#51  
 Note: À VENDRE - FOR SALE
voilier LAETITIA II
info: www.columbia37.com




________________________________
De : Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
À : amelyachtowners@...
Envoyé le : Jeu 11 novembre 2010, 11h 03min 14s
Objet : Re: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables

 
Thanks, Craig.  That makes very good sense for the 110 cable.  I'm still not
sure why we can get by with such a small 220 cable compared to what's
recommended in the US, and why it makes a difference (or if it even does) if
we're using EU 220 or US 220 to what size shore power cable we need.  Is it just
the difference between EU 220 50Hz and US 120/240 60Hz?  If so that's a huge
difference in cable size for a 9% difference in voltage and a 20% difference in
Hz (the difference in Hz really doesn't alter the Amperage, does it?).  I don't
know if I'm really as dumb as I feel about this stuff, but I get a different
answer from every electrician I deal with...and now this one (who seems sharper
than the average) is strongly recommending that I change the 220 shore power
cable to a much larger one (~1inch dia) at great expense.  My gut tells me no,
but I'm trying to get my head in line, too.
Thanks again to all.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kent we have been using that set up here in the US, Caribbean, and all over the Med. The prior owners used it all over the world without issue. If your getting a hot cable you may want to check in put voltage if you are low voltage or a leg missing yes the wires get warm. I'd also like to point out the the transformer is a very heavy draw as is the battery charger Your load for other on board stuff should not be that unless you are running all 3 heaters and then some. Heater=about 50 amps at startup.
Good luck

Regards
Richard Piller

On Nov 11, 2010, at 9:17, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

That sounds like a pretty nice setup, Richard. Will consider that when my current charger/inverter bites the dust. So you are using the same small diameter wire (~7/16" dia) that Amel installed as the shore power cable for either 220 or 110 input at 30 or 50A? My question really refers to the shore power cable itself and if it is really big enough. It does NOT meet ABYC standards, and gets pretty warm when running a lot of 220 equipment. Has anyone out there felt the need to replace the smaller cable(s) that Amel uses to larger ones?
Thanks again and Happy Holidays.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:

From: Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables
To:
amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 9:58 PM



Kent, we did away with the "Amel plug in solution") we installed an 1800 Watt

inverter working off the 24 volt batteries and ran a wire from the inverter to

the 110 volt box. We took out the 110 volt power supply coil that by the way is

always hot. Changed the battery charger to a 90 to 260 volt, 80 amp 50/60 cycle

charger. Kept the same input wire. This modification allows us to plug in

anyplace in the world without worry. We just need the correct plug ends for all

those different counties/harbors. It made life much easier traveling the

world. We can plug in 110 stuff when we need it without having to go into the

engine room and we can use 220 for some things like our coffee maker, toaster

and vac. And yes the washer needs to have gen set running.

good luck.

Richard on SM 209 it's for sale.

________________________________

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>

To: amelyachtowners@...

Sent: Wed, November 10, 2010 2:54:16 PM

Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables

Oh, forgot to address your ? about the 110 circuit. It was added by Amel at the

original owner's request and goes through a110-220 transformer before going to

the chargers. I have to physically unplug a connection from the 220 power

supply and plug it into the 110 power supply at the forward bulkhead in the

engine room to use the 30A 110V shore power.

Kent

SM243

KRISTY

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, sv Sangaris <sangaris@...> wrote:

From: sv Sangaris <sangaris@...>

Subject: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables

To: amelyachtowners@...

Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 12:34 PM

Hey Kent,

Sailing south you won't need the heaters - problem solved :-)

I'd guess the 110v feed is an add-on by the former US owner of Kristy, not

original Amel, correct? What wattage are you drawing on your heaters - many are

in the 1800w range. Sounds like you've got more than one - two would present

3600w which at 120v gives you the 30A limit of your cable - no wonder it's hot!

If you need the heaters until you go south, can you run a separate additional

110 line out to the dock for one of the heaters? ... or get a 220v heater?

Seems you really needn't rip into the Amel wiring at all.

Cheers,

Craig



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kent:

The multimeter I have is this:

http://bluesea.com/category/6/23/products/8247


You can see my installation in photo #17 in the photo section under "Dessalator Water Maker Service Folder"

Gary Silver
Amel SM #335
Liahona

Kent and all:

By way of explanation:
220 AC (alternating current): Picture a wave on the ocean (actually a sine wave). You measure the height of the wave from the trough to the peak and come up with 220 feet, (it is a really big wave). The boat sees that wave and thinks, "wow, that is a big wave". The boat doesn't KNOW whether the 220 feet from peak to trough is measured relative to mean sea level, mean low tide, or mean high tide. All the boat KNOWS is that it is a 220 ft wave. Now if the wave passes under the boat (hopefully) 60 times a second, that is equivalent to sixty hertz. If it passes under the boat 50 times a second, that is equivalent to 50 hertz (a hertz is a cycle per second when speaking of all things electrical). I think you can see that more energy is expended/used/dissipated by the boat going up and down 60 times a second compared to going up and down over the waves at 50 times per second.

Now to electricity. The load (washer, microwave, heater or whatever is using electricity) doesn't know if it is seeing 220 volts generated in Europe or in the US (actually EMF or electromotive force). All the load sees is the peak to peak change in voltage and that is identical in the US or Europe except for hertz. The difference between 220 volt European power and 220 volt US power is only in Hertz and the color codes of the wires. The load sees no difference in voltage but does run at a different speed due to the difference in Hertz. Granted less work is done per minute by European power (fewer cycles) than by US power. Motors and electronics using timers etc are sensitive to the hertz (frequency) of the power. Grounding and bonding are different between the US and Europe but that is a whole different story. Neutral in the US (white wire in household US wiring) is just that. It is Neutral, that means that it SEEs the sine wave power at 1/2 way between the peak and the trough of the wave 220 volt wave. Since it only SEES 1/2 of the wave height it only SEEs 110 volts. In the ocean wave analogy, Neutral is 1/2 way between the peak and trough of the wave.

On my Amel SM Hull 335, the 220 volt cable is sized for 30 Amps at 50 hertz.. I have the 110 volt cable with the 110 to 220 volt step up transformer (installed as an option by Amel with the change over box in the engine room) like you. You have to be able to draw 60 amps at 110 volts to equal 220 volts at 30 amps. Furthermore, when plugged into 60 hertz power that cable must be able to handle more POWER than when plugged into 50 hertz power. I do not know the amperage ratting of the transformer but 60 amps is a fair amount of power. Consider that the average US house has 200 amp service. I sized a 60 foot extension cord for my Amel that could handle 60 amps at 60 hertz.. My thinking was that, that way I could use it for either 110 or 220 power. This was a mistake on my part since the cable is 1 inch in diameter and weighs about 100 lbs. I paid about $500 for this cord and couldn't return it, so I lug it around being mad every time I use it. Even if you upgrade your Amel 110 volt cable, the wiring downstream in the boat (i.e. from the garage to the step up transformer might need to be upgraded too. I suggest that you just use a little less power, and install a multimeter before the 220 volt panel that will show you Watts, Volts, Hertz, Amps, and that way you can monitor your power usage. See my Photo section under watermaker service (I think that is where I put a picture of my multimeter). I will post subsequently with a link to the vendor.

Don't feel bad about getting different answers about this from most electricians. My experience is that 95 % of US electricians don't have a clue about European power. By the way, as you know, we in the US are a minority in the world for our power. Virtually the rest of the world uses 220 volt /50 hertz power.

Hope this helps.

Gary Silver

Amel SM #335 s/v Liahona

Thanks, Craig.  That makes very good sense for the 110 cable.  I'm still not sure why we can get by with such a small 220 cable compared to what's recommended in the US, and why it makes a difference (or if it even does) if we're using EU 220 or US 220 to what size shore power cable we need.  Is it just the difference between EU 220 50Hz and US 120/240 60Hz?  If so that's a huge difference in cable size for a 9% difference in voltage and a 20% difference in Hz (the difference in Hz really doesn't alter the Amperage, does it?).  I don't know if I'm really as dumb as I feel about this stuff, but I get a different answer from every electrician I deal with...and now this one (who seems sharper than the average) is strongly recommending that I change the 220 shore power cable to a much larger one (~1inch dia) at great expense.  My gut tells me no, but I'm trying to get my head in line, too.
Thanks again to all.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Kent - Please see my comments inserted in your post below:
Craig

Hi All.
   The brushes for the 12v and 24v motors are, (I'm not certain but I believe), a standard metric size. Good news if you are leaving the US, not so otherwise.
   I have, certainly, had no problem getting my furling motors, and the bow thruster motor serviced  here in Thailand.

Mike
Santorin "Akwaaba"

Ornella,
 From memory, you have to drill out the welded stainless end cap and then slide out the pin. I'm out of the water at the moment so I'll check tomorrow.

 Mike.
Santorin (sloop)
Akwaaba

That sounds like a pretty nice setup, Richard.  Will consider that when my current charger/inverter bites the dust.  So you are using the same small diameter wire (~7/16" dia) that  Amel installed as the shore power cable for either 220 or 110 input at 30 or 50A?  My question really refers to the shore power cable itself and if it is really big enough.  It does NOT meet ABYC standards, and gets pretty warm when running a lot of 220 equipment.  Has anyone out there felt the need to replace the smaller cable(s) that Amel uses to larger ones?
Thanks again and Happy Holidays.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

The pump is self priming, we have also done ours recently, works like a
charm. just make sure the pressure setting is not too high. Typically from
previously having rainwater tank systems on the land, the valve pressure
diaphragm needs to be kept an eye on since it does clog up after some time.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 1:02 PM, Richard Piller <richard03801@...>wrote:

We replaced our fresh water pump with an on demand pump and did away with
the
tank altogether. It has worked well for years now. We also installed a
carbon
filter before the pump so we are sure that when we flush the water maker we
have
good water without chemicals. This makes the whole system easier to deal
with
and takes up less space.
Good luck
Richard SM 209 For Sale at Rogue Wave in Annapolis

________________________________
From: johnabo2003 <no_reply@... <no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>>
To: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, November 10, 2010 9:15:53 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Freshwater pressure pump, SM319

I have just serviced my AMFA fresh water pump and am now ready to install.
Does
anybody know if the pump is self priming?

John
SM 391

--- In amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"John and Anne on Bali Hai"
<annejohn@...> wrote:

My pump, which is an AMFA 66I4555, Prot.IP44 has been getting
noisier in recent years. I had spares for the impellor, two brass
bits, one like a turbine and a matching face plate plus new ceramic
water seals. The latter turned out to be the wrong size but in fact
it was the impellor that was worn.
To replace, get the parts from Amel by Airmail or normal post in EU.
Turn off the power to the hot water heater and also the pump contact
breaker and run off the water at a tap. Tie a piece of line round the
big plastic vent pipe above the pump and leave the end hanging down.
Undo the connectors to the pump with a spanner and tie the left hand
one up high to stop water pouring back out of the hot tank
The pump is held to the floor of the engine room by four screws. If
they are hard to turn hit the top of the screwdiver with a hammer to
free them. Do not attempt to undo the four nuts on the vibration
mounting as they are on threaded rods forming part of the rubber
mounting. Lie the pump on its side and remove the cover to the wiring
to the pump pressure switch. Take a digital pic of the connections in
case you might forget which goes where before removing the three
wires so that you can get the pump on deck. You will also have to
release the grounding wire.
The next step is to undo three nuts holding the pump housing to the
motor and then remove the housing whilst the motor shaft is pointing
upwards. The housing holds one of the bits to be replaced, it is held
in place by two machine screws.Fit the new part (I had to file one of
the holes in the new part to get the second screw in place).
Carefully remove the circlip holding the impellor with a small
screwdriver and remove the old impellor taking care not to lose the
key. If you are replacing the seal as well, remove the second circlip
as well to remove the seal.In the event the new seal that I had was
the wrong size so I reused the old one with no problems.
Replace the circlip holding the seal by pushing it down the shaft
using all three of your hands so that it goes over the groove for the
top circlip crookedly to get it down the shaft to the second groove
against the spring on the seal which wants to send the circlip into
orbit.
Fit the new impellor with the raised flange facing OUTWARDS making
sure that the key is held properly in place using some needlenose
pliers so that the impellor slides on easily and replace the
circlip.
Reassemble and away you go...I hope.

Best wishes, Anne and John SM319

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
Email: seagasm@...
Off Shore E-mail: vhn3361@... (text only)
Phone: Australia (0407) 65-2046
HF Call Sign: VHN3361
SV Tradewinds III, SM#171


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We replaced our fresh water pump with an on demand pump and did away with the
tank altogether. It has worked well for years now. We also installed a carbon
filter before the pump so we are sure that when we flush the water maker we have
good water without chemicals. This makes the whole system easier to deal with
and takes up less space.
Good luck
Richard SM 209 For Sale at Rogue Wave in Annapolis





________________________________
From: johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wed, November 10, 2010 9:15:53 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Freshwater pressure pump, SM319


I have just serviced my AMFA fresh water pump and am now ready to install. Does
anybody know if the pump is self priming?

John
SM 391

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
<annejohn@...> wrote:

My pump, which is an AMFA 66I4555, Prot.IP44 has been getting
noisier in recent years. I had spares for the impellor, two brass
bits, one like a turbine and a matching face plate plus new ceramic
water seals. The latter turned out to be the wrong size but in fact
it was the impellor that was worn.
To replace, get the parts from Amel by Airmail or normal post in EU.
Turn off the power to the hot water heater and also the pump contact
breaker and run off the water at a tap. Tie a piece of line round the
big plastic vent pipe above the pump and leave the end hanging down.
Undo the connectors to the pump with a spanner and tie the left hand
one up high to stop water pouring back out of the hot tank
The pump is held to the floor of the engine room by four screws. If
they are hard to turn hit the top of the screwdiver with a hammer to
free them. Do not attempt to undo the four nuts on the vibration
mounting as they are on threaded rods forming part of the rubber
mounting. Lie the pump on its side and remove the cover to the wiring
to the pump pressure switch. Take a digital pic of the connections in
case you might forget which goes where before removing the three
wires so that you can get the pump on deck. You will also have to
release the grounding wire.
The next step is to undo three nuts holding the pump housing to the
motor and then remove the housing whilst the motor shaft is pointing
upwards. The housing holds one of the bits to be replaced, it is held
in place by two machine screws.Fit the new part (I had to file one of
the holes in the new part to get the second screw in place).
Carefully remove the circlip holding the impellor with a small
screwdriver and remove the old impellor taking care not to lose the
key. If you are replacing the seal as well, remove the second circlip
as well to remove the seal.In the event the new seal that I had was
the wrong size so I reused the old one with no problems.
Replace the circlip holding the seal by pushing it down the shaft
using all three of your hands so that it goes over the groove for the
top circlip crookedly to get it down the shaft to the second groove
against the spring on the seal which wants to send the circlip into
orbit.
Fit the new impellor with the raised flange facing OUTWARDS making
sure that the key is held properly in place using some needlenose
pliers so that the impellor slides on easily and replace the
circlip.
Reassemble and away you go...I hope.

Best wishes, Anne and John SM319

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kent, we did away with the "Amel plug in solution") we installed an 1800 Watt
inverter working off the 24 volt batteries and ran a wire from the inverter to
the 110 volt box. We took out the 110 volt power supply coil that by the way is
always hot. Changed the battery charger to a 90 to 260 volt, 80 amp 50/60 cycle
charger. Kept the same input wire. This modification allows us to plug in
anyplace in the world without worry. We just need the correct plug ends for all
those different counties/harbors. It made life much easier traveling the
world. We can plug in 110 stuff when we need it without having to go into the
engine room and we can use 220 for some things like our coffee maker, toaster
and vac. And yes the washer needs to have gen set running.
good luck.
Richard on SM 209 it's for sale.





________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wed, November 10, 2010 2:54:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables


Oh, forgot to address your ? about the 110 circuit. It was added by Amel at the
original owner's request and goes through a110-220 transformer before going to
the chargers. I have to physically unplug a connection from the 220 power
supply and plug it into the 110 power supply at the forward bulkhead in the
engine room to use the 30A 110V shore power.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, sv Sangaris <sangaris@...> wrote:

From: sv Sangaris <sangaris@...>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 12:34 PM



Hey Kent,
Sailing south you won't need the heaters - problem solved :-)

I'd guess the 110v feed is an add-on by the former US owner of Kristy, not
original Amel, correct? What wattage are you drawing on your heaters - many are
in the 1800w range. Sounds like you've got more than one - two would present
3600w which at 120v gives you the 30A limit of your cable - no wonder it's hot!

If you need the heaters until you go south, can you run a separate additional
110 line out to the dock for one of the heaters? ... or get a 220v heater?


Seems you really needn't rip into the Amel wiring at all.

Cheers,
Craig

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