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Mark, I really like these seals. They also come as stainless steel coated with Loctite...see below:  Excellent find! |
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Excellent find!
I will be buying these. On our new Amel 50, we had an identical leak. A drip. Researching the owner’s manual, the fitting called out for application of Locktite to the sealing surface. There wasn’t any. I applied Orange locktite (made by Permaseal, available on Amazon), fixing the leak. I will buy these devices though. Quick, easy, and uniform. I found them on hoseandfittings,com for lower cost. $29.87 for 10 with shipping. Thanks for a great recommendation! |
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Mark, If we had an OSCAR for the BEST supporting member of the Amel Group, you would certainly win it, even though there is significant competition for several others. This is a great find...please post updates, if any. Bill
On Tue, Feb 8, 2022 at 8:30 AM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote: Ulrich, |
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Mark McGovern
Ulrich,
I cannot say for certain that the fittings are the same for the Duo100 in your 54 as they are for the D160 on my my SM but it is highly likely that they are. I look a quick look at the documentation and the pressure vessels appear to be the same diameter for the Duo100 as the D160 so therefore they likely use the same end caps and thus, the same fittings. Perhaps someone with a Duo100 can confirm that they also have 3/8" (-6) JIC 37 degree flare fittings on the end caps. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Annapolis, MD USA |
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Ulrich Michael Dangelmeyer
Hi Mark, and Ho Ameliens
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Thank you so much for this important impact and recommendation. Good to have it in the spares on board. But.:Do you believe / are you sure, this fittings will also match to the Dessalator Duo types (e.g. Dua 100) as we run on Amel 54? Are the hose fittings on all Dessalators the same? Than i´ll order it immediately. Until today we never had any issue with our watermaker…but never knows…knocking on wood. Any other suggestions and experiences from in the Amel community? Thanks for sharing and best Regards. Fair winds and stay safe. Ulrich „Soleil Bleu“ / A54#088 *** Am 07.02.2022 um 23:22 schrieb Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...>: This past summer, I developed a slight leak in my watermaker at the point where the high pressure hose connects to the fitting on the end cap on the watermaker pressure vessel. I replaced the hose with a new one in the hopes that this would fix the leak and while the new hose did reduce the leak, it did not completely eliminate it. I thought that might be the case because when I was cleaning the fitting on the end cap before installing the new hose I noticed that there was some significant corrosion and even some pitting on the flared face of the fitting on the watermaker end cap. The flared face is supposed to create the seal with the mating surface on the fitting on the end of the hose. Due to the corrosion and pitting, it could not create a perfect seal. There was also signs of deformation of the face from over-tightening which probably also contributed to the inability to get a good seal. Unfortunately, this fitting cannot be easily replaced as it is the fitting that is welded onto the bracket that is affixed to the watermaker end cap. Here is the welded on flared fitting and the end cap: |
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Mark McGovern
This past summer, I developed a slight leak in my watermaker at the point where the high pressure hose connects to the fitting on the end cap on the watermaker pressure vessel. I replaced the hose with a new one in the hopes that this would fix the leak and while the new hose did reduce the leak, it did not completely eliminate it. I thought that might be the case because when I was cleaning the fitting on the end cap before installing the new hose I noticed that there was some significant corrosion and even some pitting on the flared face of the fitting on the watermaker end cap. The flared face is supposed to create the seal with the mating surface on the fitting on the end of the hose. Due to the corrosion and pitting, it could not create a perfect seal. There was also signs of deformation of the face from over-tightening which probably also contributed to the inability to get a good seal. Unfortunately, this fitting cannot be easily replaced as it is the fitting that is welded onto the bracket that is affixed to the watermaker end cap. Here is the welded on flared fitting and the end cap:
 I ordered some new end caps from Dessalator but they would not arrive before we needed start heading south for the winter. Not wanting to have a fine mist of salt water spraying all over the engine room every time I ran the watermaker, I started looking some kind of temporary solution. I did some research and found a relatively inexpensive part called a Flaretite Flare Seal that I hoped would stop the leak at least until I could replace the end caps. It only took a minute to install as it literally just presses onto the male flare. It seems to have completely stopped the leak. Here is the detailed information on the seal I used: Flaretite Flare Seals: https://www.flaretite.com/flaretite-seal I purchased them here: https://www.titanfittings.com/Flare-Seal-p/bp-37ft-sor.htm and paid ~US$40 for a quantity of 10 (the minimum) but they are available many other places including Amazon. The size needed for the watermaker hoses are 3/8 or -6.   They really are a great part to have in your spares kit on the boat. They are relatively cheap, they are small, and they appear to fix what seems to be a fairly common problem on our boats - leaks at the watermaker fittings. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara George Town, Bahamas |
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Noise when turning Trinquette Bamar Furler MEJ 1.02
Hi All
I have the Bamar MEJ 1.02 Furler on WASABI and have to say that I'm still happy with it. Both Genua- and Trinquette-Furler are working well and I never had to change a belt the last 5 years. Recently I found that the Trinquette is making some more noise when turning. I opened everything and was surprised how clean and well it was inside. No water inside and everything turned well and easy. The Bamar was still full of grease inside, which I filled 5 years ago. I disconnected the belt and turned the motor from the cockpit switch. The sound was very normal and I'm sure it is fine. I also turned the Manual Port with a power driller and this is not bad as well but a bit more. After I assembled everything and run it, the noise is still quite recognizable and I don't like it. I came to the conclusion that the noise is not coming form the Furler itself. Finally I haven no idea where the noise is coming from. I have no access further up where the gear is turning the aluminium foil. But maybe the forestay is touching the foil somewhere inside on the bottom close to the Furler making the noise? Does someone had a similar issue or maybe an idea what could be the source of that noise? Best regards Ruedi WASABI, A54#55 
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Updated Event: Round Table Discussion ZOOM & STREAM - Provisioning for Ocean Crossings and Circumnavigation - Saturday, February 26, 2022
#cal-invite
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <noreply@...>
Round Table Discussion ZOOM & STREAM - Provisioning for Ocean Crossings and Circumnavigation When: Where: Organizer: Bill Rouse brouse@... 8323804970 An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP Description: All Amel Group Members, Anyone wishing to volunteer to be one of the 4-6 panelists for this Round Table should email Bill Rouse at brouse@...
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Re: Photo Notifications
#photo-notice
Thanks great photo spread really shows how to get it out.
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Cheers 🥂 Courtney Trippin Secret Harbour Grenada On Feb 6, 2022, at 1:06 PM, main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <noreply@groups.io> wrote:
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Photo Notifications
#photo-notice
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <noreply@...>
The following photos have been updated in the Amel-54 Galley Fridge Access & Compressor Repair album of the main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io group. By: WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> updated the album Amel-54 Galley Fridge Access & Compressor Repair : This pictures shows an easy way how to remove Galley Fridge to get access to Compressor for repair on AMEL-54 Hull Number 55 |
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Re: Looking for a condenser for a AC CLIMMA COMPACT 9 EH
Hi Olaf
Probably you find it on Amazon. Or a local Aircon company, normally they have it. I was able to find it in a Bricomart where they sell Aircons for households. Best regards Ruedi Waldispuehl
SY WASABI AMEL54 #55
Almerimar
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Olaf Bauer <olaf.bauer@...>
Hello all, I am looking for a condenser for a AC CLIMMA COMPACT 9 EH.
Probably someone has this part available from a defect unit or know where to buy it for a reasonable price. Thanks so much in advance
Fair winds Olaf
S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392 currently in Martinique
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Re: RESOLVED, - Galley fridge intermittently cooling
Hi Ameslan’s,
The Galley Fridge/Freezer on Wasabi is back on work and is cooling well since 2 days. It was an Ice crystal issues, exactly as Thomas (Garulfo) speculated, I changed the filter drier and the problem was resolved. After some good hints and a lot of usefully input from this great group, I was able to remove the galley fridge cabinet. Thanks to input from Roque and Bill the removal was very easy and only a 15 minute task. I uploaded a photo documentation into a Folder: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/album?id=272445
On A54 #55 (2007) 1. Remove 5 bolts on the back behind the seat cushion. 2. Remove the fixing-bold of the lid support on top. No need to take the lid off, just let it wide open vertical and fix it with a line to keep it from falling down. 3. Remove 3 bolts BB and 1 bold SB in the fridge (see Photos). 4. I had to disconnect the water hoses to be able to move the cabinet aft far enough. Before that I shut down the waterpump in the engine room and closed the main Valve. 5. Protect the floor and gently lift the wooden cabinet up and back. It’s not heavy and very easy to move. BTW: If you want to keep using the other fridge and freezer. You can just connect the two ends of the hose. They fit together without any extra connection or tool.
Happy sailing and best regards Ruedi
SY WASABI AMEL54 #55 E-MAIL: mail@...
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...>
Hi Thomas
Thank you for all the useful hints. I still get into more detail’s with your information. You are right with the Engineers changing expensive gas and drinking your coffee 😉 BTW: I searched but was not able to find Arnos treat “Access to the galley fridge/freezer compressor has been explained by Arno”. ??
It sounds like a blockage as you described. Either by Ice or the filter drier is blocked (the Engineer was pointing at this as well). But I don’t know where is this filter located and how can I change it. The “Engineer” said he need to remove the compressor, but it’s not possible to move it out under the fridge in the galley.
As soon as I knock on the evaporator with my fingers I hear a hissing sound and the evaporator will frost promptly but only for a very short time. After that noise stops again, compressor sound still there like normal, and if I wait for an hour or longer so the fridge goes up to 10 or more °C. The evaporator is cool (not cold) and sweaty. The compressor works normal to my impression; littles sound, between 35-40°C warm is cooled by seawater which is about 17°C. (I measured the compressor and the cooling circuit by a laser gun). At the moment the compressor runs with about 2500 rm and consumes ca. 55W.
Early this week before the local “Fridge-Engineer” changed the gas, same situation but the compressor started to increase rpm. Now the compressor works constantly but not cooling down? With my little knowledge I think the Compressor side works normal, but not on the gas/evaporator side. I will make more homework and will let you know, any other hints where the filter is, or how to remover the compressor are welcome.
Best Ruedi Waldispuehl
SY WASABI AMEL54 #55
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...>
Hi Ruedi,
I got to learn a lot about refrigeration since my last post.
Intermittent cooling can be caused by a blockage in the refrigerant circuit. I find that the best way to confirm that is to measure the power consumed by the compressor. Either with an amp meter or better with a wattmeter that will show voltage, amps, watts, max amps, max watts, total watts, total amphrs. They cost a handful of dollars on Amazon / AliExpress.
A blocked circuit will show the compressor consuming lower power (only 20W instead of 60/100W, but constantly). The evaporator will be cool (not cold) and sweaty. Stop/Start of the unit may cause the compressor to stall (stops itself, waits 30s and tries again), emitting the corresponding error code on the diagnosis LED (if you have one plugged in). The fan runs continuously during that sequence, which can be mistaken for the compressor running. Learn to recognise the various sounds.
The blockage can be due to ice crystals or corrosion sludge. Usually the blockage is on the capillary, the hair-thin copper tube leading to the evaporator plate, but can also happen at the entry of the evaporator, where the refrigerant expands and the temp gets super cold.
Ice crystals form because tiny amounts of humid air can be sucked in on the vacuum side of the compressor at the quick connector.
Aluminum sludge can form because of the corrosion of the evaporator plate by the refrigerant chemicals.
The filter drier, located after the condenser (the u shaped water circulation tube sitting on top of the compressor on our units) is meant to catch such impurities but can/will saturate at some point.
It’s difficult to differentiate between solid and ice blockage, but if the unit cools again after you let the evaporator warm up to room temp, you can hope it’s ice based.
You can also gently knock on the evaporator around the thinnest section of the embedded evaporator tube, with a rubber tool or snapping your fingers and hope to dislodge the blockage. You’ll hear a hissing sound and the evaporator will frost promptly.
Ice cristal issues may be resolved by changing the filter drier, vacuuming the system thoroughly and refilling with refrigerant.
Solid blockage types are trickier and usually need a change of evaporator/capillary, since they are located after the filter and before the capillary.
So there is a risk that changing just the filter drier may not solve the issue.
While you have someone onboard working at welding/brazing a new filter drier, ask them to remove the quick connectors and weld the circuit. Those quick connectors make it really easy to install the fridge initially but will fail and lead to refrigerant loss, humidity infiltration, and workhours of fridge engineers, some (many?) of them using the occasion to sell complete new fridges. They are also an environmental nonsense because the will lead to people topping up with refrigerant again and again instead of addressing the issue. R134a refrigerant is better that freon but still an extremely potent greenhouse gaz.
A fully closed circuit instead of quick connectors vastly reduces risks of refrigerant leaks.
Access to the galley fridge/freezer compressor has been explained by Arno.
Hope this helps navigating the interesting world of refrigeration/AC engineers, whose charging of 100$ per hour in Tahiti for drinking your coffee (before 10am, your beer afterward) while everybody waits hours for the system to settle/be vaccummed/refill slowly/settles/etc, strongly encourages you to google a thing or two about fridges and potentially invest in gauges (25$), a vacuum pump (more expensive), canisters of refrigerant (only available to license holders in eco friendly countries) and maybe even an 02/propane brazing kit.
Best,
Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Rapa, French Polynesia
On 22 Jan 2022, at 05:11, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote: Hi Amelia’s, (@ Arno & Mohammad)
The Galley fridge on my A54 is only intermittently cooling and sometimes it stops completely until I can restart it. A fridge-guy told me; - it is the filter blocked inside the unit and it is a common problem on boat fridges. He mentioned, he need to take out the compressor to change the filter (just a 2€ part). But to take out the compressor on my A54#55, it seems I need to dismantle a big parts of the galley because the “service opening” is too small for the compressor replacement.
Does anyone know where this filter is located by any chance?
@ Arno/Mohammad, I have found in older treats that you had similar problems and you both changed the compressor. How was it gone and how to change the compressor without too much hazzle? The opening is too small, even if I’m able to remove the big wood panel galley front. How was it in your case?
Thanks and best regards Ruedi
SY WASABI AMEL54 #55 Puerto Almerimar
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...>
Hi Thomas, |
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Looking for a condenser for a AC CLIMMA COMPACT 9 EH
Hello all,
I am looking for a condenser for a AC CLIMMA COMPACT 9 EH.
Probably someone has this part available from a defect unit or know where to buy it for a reasonable price. Thanks so much in advance
Fair winds Olaf
S/V Katchopine, SM2K 392 currently in Martinique |
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Re: I ordered this on the 10 th from Amel
Eric, I know your frustration. In addition, FedEx is the absolute worst for customer service. They will only deal with the shipper and offer the receiver nothing. Just curious, have you showed this to Amel. Perhaps they might at this point consider other shipping options – wishful thinking but worth an email.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Eric Freedman
This is unbelievable . Here is the FedEx tracking history to St Maarten – still not there. Start at the bottom. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
Thursday, February 3, 2022 |
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Re: B&G Forward Scan Transducer Install
Wolfgang Weber
Hello Bill, the B&G Forwardscan sensor is 41 mm at the o-ring. It will go through 44 mm hole in the part for the through-hull installation which has a outside diameter of 50 mm. Did you see the youtube by Oliver Henrichsen with Forward scan Installation ? Any comment ? Greetings Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162 La Rochelle |
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Re: Updating the Furuno GP-150
Sorry this is the update file |
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Updating the Furuno GP-150
For those suffering the week-rollover problem on the Furuno GP-150. I can confirm it is possible to update the device yourself. |
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Re: Firefly Battery Update.
Hi Bill,
You did an excellent job in charting the way your batteries are behaving! I guess I'm just disappointed by the expectations the Sales Blurb set for me about the the way these batteries behave. I consider a 0.1 C load on a battery not exceptional at least not to see voltages dropping to close to 23 Volt. This is a point where all the voltage alarms start sounding on our boat if it lasts longer then 10 secs or so. With an big inverter, a freezer and two fridges getting to these loads is not so hard. The loads are not continuous but long enough to set off the alarms. So in my case the set of batteries I had was not big enough to withstand an excessive voltage drop. When sailing it also means a lot of generator time as the solar panels we have is not be be enough to compensate all usage in the 24h timeframe. Charging was better then with AGM but still the last 20% takes a lot of time. And this is where I got into a catch-22 situation as I wanted the batteries at high SOC because of the voltage drop. We are now on Lithium and that makes a lot of difference. But that was to be expected. Thanks to the dimensional aspects of the replacement it also allowed us to install 700Ah@24V. But as said before, the cost of this whole exercise is something I really want to forget. I'm happy these batteries work good for you as I don't believe they are bad batteries but their use-case is different then I expected. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121 |
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Re: I ordered this on the 10 th from Amel
Sv Garulfo
Last time we ordered something from La Rochelle, we tried real hard to explain that FedEx was terrible at delivering to French Polynesia, but there was no other option. We ended up sending a friend at the Amel office to pick the part up, package it and send it via the French postal service. It arrived just fine, and we were able to carry on cruising around, knowing it would get forwarded anywhere with a post office in FP, which is anywhere with human beings. Oh well... Thomas GARULFO A54-122 Rapa, French Polynesia On 4 Feb 2022, at 10:20, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I ship my Amel Books worldwide. This is a problem everywhere and some places are much worse than others. All shippers use commercial airlines as either the primary source or a secondary source. The lack of international passenger flights has really hurt reliability. I am afraid that there is no solution other than to wait. Bill
On Fri, Feb 4, 2022 at 8:34 AM Brian Riggs <7briggs@...> wrote:
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Re: Firefly Battery Update.
Bill, I looked that up, that sounds awesome. I must have been in a cave, or work got in the way. I missed that functionality.
May I ask, does thing connect to wifi or do you need a router on board? -- John Bernard "JB" Duler San Francisco Meltem # 19, Western Med |
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