Date   

Re: Mooring cleat nut size

Clive Chapman
 

Would a crows foot spanner work or is access so restricted that it has to be a socket? Like many ‘nice to have’ tools I’ve found these just make life easier when previously I’d have struggled a bit and just ‘found a way’ with more conventional tools…

https://images.esellerpro.com/41/I/895/57/lrgscale111508_ENWNMPRO1.jpg


Re: Climma Heat

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Alexei,

The grey/black Klimma unit temperature control knop is used to switch on and off the 220v to the heating element. It's thermostat measures the air temperature at the air inlet of the Klimma. It should click when you rotate the knob. There is a screw on the back of the grey/ black unit for adjustment.
That is the main temperature control.

But there is also temperature control in the heating element:

The item on the lower left of your picture is the over-temperature protection which goes open circuit when the thermostat fails short circuit and it happened to me when there was no airflow.
The item marked by you in red in the photo is the Texas Instruments Klixon thermostat. This device uses a bimetal strip and spring to open its contacts when it reaches a certain temperature.
It can get stuck open or closed. Note these things are not made to be serviced but cleaning the spring and contacts worked for me. You can pull the switch out from the side, there is a screw. 

Of cause when replacing parts use the same temperatures to avoid fire. It's all very fiddly and to replace the total is a better and safer solution.

Hope this helps,

Stefan Jeukendrup
svMalaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Newry Northern Ireland

Op 8 nov. 2021 04:56 schreef Alexey Mateosyan <alexey.mateosyan@...>:

Hi Stefan,

Thank you for your answer to Mike's post (thank you Mike). For my case, it looks like that the problem is with overheating protection. And since:
1. max airflow is really huge, and climma in aft works even with medium flow
2. I see 220v on electrical heating element constantly
3. On the other hand I can't hear any relay clicking, at the moment when heating is gone
4. Current in the heating circuit is dropped from 5a to 0, at that moment
I think that the root cause is inside the heater itself, i.e. it could be one of those two things on the picture (since they are sitting in series with the heating element and basically can break the circuit), the below one looks like thermistor, and the one above:
Is this the klixon thermostat marked on the picture?

How did you clean it, if it is the thing?

--
Best regards,
Aleksei @ Aletes SM2K#240


Re: Climma Heat

Alexey Mateosyan
 

Hi Stefan,

Thank you for your answer to Mike's post (thank you Mike). For my case, it looks like that the problem is with overheating protection. And since:
1. max airflow is really huge, and climma in aft works even with medium flow
2. I see 220v on electrical heating element constantly
3. On the other hand I can't hear any relay clicking, at the moment when heating is gone
4. Current in the heating circuit is dropped from 5a to 0, at that moment
I think that the root cause is inside the heater itself, i.e. it could be one of those two things on the picture (since they are sitting in series with the heating element and basically can break the circuit), the below one looks like thermistor, and the one above:
Is this the klixon thermostat marked on the picture?

How did you clean it, if it is the thing?

--
Best regards,
Aleksei @ Aletes SM2K#240


Re: Mooring cleat nut size

Dean Gillies
 

Martin, yes those are the ones.

Thanks for the fast answer!
Dean
SV STELLA
A54-154




Re: Mooring cleat nut size

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi Dean,

if you talk of the cleats accessable from the lazarette: in our boat it is a 24 mm nut. 

Regards
Martin
SY Mago del Sur - 54#40


Mooring cleat nut size

Dean Gillies
 

Hi 54 Owners,
One of my stern mooring cleats is a tiny bit loose, and on closer investigation I found the nut on the underside to be a little loose. It's in a difficult to access spot and needs an extra-deep socket to tighten it due to the long shaft on the underside of the cleat. The threaded shaft is about 60mm long so I'll need to buy an extra-deep socket.

Does anyone know the size of the nut so that I can order the correct extra-deep socket?  


Any inventive solutions to tightening it?

Thanks,
Dean
SV STELLA
A54-154


 

 

 


Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill et al,

Absolutely right about different products for different areas. As I said in a previous I used micron 66 but as it became less effective in the same waters I suspected a change in formulation. However this post is to note an interesting situation. locked out of the Pacific islands for the last two NZ winters my boat has spent its time either Northern NZ cruising or on its Mangonui mooring. Different seasons different challenges. Must be water temp induced I guess. There are times of intense barnacle challenge. After 7 months my prop speeded propeller was clean. Two months later totally covered in large barnacles. Scraped it clean and the barnacles have not returned in 6 months. Other boats in the harbour have had barnacle challenge on 9 month anti fouling. Other harbours are experiencing similar challenges. It seems to be a seasonal thing. There are times of extreme challenge. The last time I had micron 66 on within six months the hull was covered, and I mean covered, in tiny barnacles. I dived and scraped it clean with a 6 inch paint scraper. They didn't return.

So, pay your money and take your chances as they say

Danny

SM 299 Ocean pearl

On 05 November 2021 at 08:18 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



I like Micron 66 because it reacts with saltwater to release biocide and is microscopically ablative. I think all of the Micron series is a hard paint that is microscopically ablative, each with different release systems. In the tropics, we needed this sort of protection. 

There is no ablative action with Coppercoat. And in the tropics, people with Coppercoat were cleaning their hulls every month or two.

Everyone needs to be aware that there are the best solutions for different areas. 

Also, the SeaJet 033 that Amel was recently using (I had not heard they switched to Coppercoat) is difficult to find in areas that do not use Europe as the supply chain.

Lastly, I had Micron 66 put on our SM in New Zealand and someone I know had Coppercoat done at the same time. Nine months later when we docked side-by-side in Singapore his hull had about 1" of marine growth on the hull because he had not cleaned it, our SM was perfectly clean.

If you don't mind cleaning your hull Coppercoat might be the best thing for certain cruising areas.
 

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
 
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Nov 4, 2021 at 12:27 PM Joerg Esdorn via groups.io <jhe1313= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

When I bought my boat in 2016, Amel was using Seajet paint which worked ok in the Med but I had to clean it every couple of months and I repainted every winter. I then replaced it with international Micron 350 in 2019.  The Micron I never cleaned during the season because the International support told me to trust the self polishing and any additional cleaning would just reduce the thickness of the paint. The experience with that has been good - I never saw any reduction in speed from a dirty bottom.  One reason could be that I’m now in the Atlantic and the water is colder than in the Med.  interestingly, Amel now installs Copperplate as standard.   I am considering that for next season. There is another thread on that on this forum.  


Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53 Kincsem
Currently in La Rochelle 

 

 


Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement

karkauai
 

Did you notice intake is 3-4inch dia + two more underwater thruhulls as outputs.  Henri would not approve methinks.

Virtually NO propwalk on Kristy with AutoProp or MaxProp.  She'd be very difficult to dock in tight quarters with any wind.  At least in my hands.
KenSM 243

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Volvo Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

Trevor, I had thought about replacing the pump ,being cheap I just replaced the cover and impeller. 1.5 mm seems like a fair amount of wear. Love Ireland and the Irish ! I may be a bit bias ,100% pure .
Thanks,
Patrick McAneny



-----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Sun, Nov 7, 2021 3:54 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo Heat Exchanger

Pat,
      I had exactly the same problem with my Yanmar, it drove me crazy for two years. It turned out to be the chamber in the seawater pump where the impeller sits, was worn by about 1.5 mm. Literally the pump was worn out.
New sea water pump fixed it.

Regards,

Trevor Lusty
Ireland


Re: Volvo Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I was asking about the orientation of the  core and the holes . I can install it with the holes in any of 360 degrees , of course the holes are at 180 degrees from each other at either end of the core. I will install it as your picture shows. I would not have thought the hoses would matter, the hose in the front coming off the raw water pump would have to be facing in the direction depicted ,I cannot remember the direction the aft hose exits ,but will attempt to make it conform to your picture . 
I replaced the thermostat and read it began to open at 185 and not fully open til 200 , I was wondering why I should expect 180 , as I have been lead to expect ,if the thermostat is not even open yet.
We are planning to leave next Sunday , I hope we have the weather you did , a slow start around Hatteras (kinda a good thing) the second half you had great air. Hope to catch up with you in Fla. ,if not in Eleuthera.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Sat, Nov 6, 2021 6:31 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo Heat Exchanger

Pat,

I am not entirely sure I understand your exact question, but if you are asking about the orientation of the rubber fittings that are on the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger bundle it DOES matter.  Here is the drawing from the shop manual with the correct arrangement.

If you are talking about the holes in the sleeve around the core itself, the shop manual does not specify their orientation, but they are shown in the drawing as facing up.  My recollection is that it the orientation is fixed, and it only goes all the way in if it is oriented correctly, but it has been a while since I had this apart.



Also, you might just be sweating the temperature a bit tighter than the engine is designed for.  The official Volvo specifications for the thermostat read like this:

Starts opening at 75º-85℃ (167º-185℉)
Fully open at 92º-98℃ (197º-208℉)

Even though is is called a "80℃" engine, there is a good bit of wiggle around it.

Our engine will idle at 180℉ and run steady between 2000 and 2500 RPM at 200℉ as measured by the dash gauge.

With any infrared temperature measurement device getting an exact reading of the ACTUAL temperature is not really possible.  To do that you need to know the "emissivity" of the surface you are measuring.  This is rarely known with precision.  An infrared thermometer should be considered to be repeatable, but not very accurate.  They are great for checking to see if something has changed, but not so good at measuring an exact value to compare to a specification.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hilton Head Island, SC, USA


Re: Volvo Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

Danny, While I can't say for sure that I can detect the difference between an engine at 180 or 200 degrees, I have said to Diane that I don't sense that the engine is running extremely hot as I have in the past. I don't detect the heat ,the smell that I have in the past. I think I have been chipping away at the overheating with all I have done. One major thing I did was to jack up the engine detach the flexible coupling and the pulley for the prop/shaft generator . I had the pulley cut down to just the hub ,allowing the supply hose from the strainer have a straight run ,eliminating two elbows ,one that was bend beyond 90 degrees so it would not chafe on the spinning pulley. 
I think I am a bit greener ,while you Yvonne are cruising in Fiji .Even the views from your home look amazing,the birds are beautiful .
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Sat, Nov 6, 2021 5:37 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo Heat Exchanger

Hi Pat, bit of a problem with the infrared temp sensors. Can you find a known heat to test them on. My check is standing on the engine barefoot as I drop in to do stuff after motoring. Might sound crude but when you do it all the time you get to know the norm and soon pick any change.
Danny (green with envy at your Bahamas cruise)
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 07 November 2021 at 10:15 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

I have been dealing with an overheating problem on my Volvo TMD 22A for a couple of years. At this point I am not sure if I have much of an issue, I don't know because I have four infrared guns ,two sort of agree ,two others ,more expensive show different temps,sometimes 20 degrees apart. At 2500 rpms I may be at 185 or it could be 197 at the thermostat , depending on which gun you choose to believe . 
I have done everything ,supply lines ,exhaust elbow . new thermostat, new pump impeller and cover . My question, I took out the heat exchanger core today ,it was clean (since I clean it every year) ,.Does it matter the orientation  of the holes in the core ? If the water exits down at the front of the vessel ,should the holes face down ,does that really matter , I don't think it would ,but want to ask in case it does. I am grasping at every straw . 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Volvo Heat Exchanger

Trevor Lusty
 

Pat,
      I had exactly the same problem with my Yanmar, it drove me crazy for two years. It turned out to be the chamber in the seawater pump where the impeller sits, was worn by about 1.5 mm. Literally the pump was worn out.
New sea water pump fixed it.

Regards,

Trevor Lusty
Ireland


Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement

Nick Newington
 

Of course it depends on the cruising agenda in mind. If ocean voyaging, you really do not need a bowthruster. If sailing from Marina to Marina then there is a strong argument to say that a BT is very handy….
Nick
S/Y Amelia
AML 54-019
Turkey


On 7 Nov 2021, at 07:56, ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

How about doing away with a Bowthruster altogether?
My last boat was a Bowman 46, 46 ft with long fin and skeg rudder,  never had one, managed very well without…used prop kick and knowledge to stay in control. If two or more up, could launch the dinghy with 15hp that could be used as a tug.
I would consider really good davits or stern arch with easy dinghy launch as a cost effective, seaman like solution.
Less is sometimes more.

Good luck
Nick
S/Y Amelia
AML 54-019
Turkey


On 7 Nov 2021, at 01:18, JB Duler <jbduler@...> wrote:

Chris,

Thank you for that link to the jet system. Never heard about this company. Really great find. I love it, no more seals, special parts, anodes, and clunky systems. Anybody on the forum has any experience with that system?
--
John Bernard "JB" Duler
San Francisco
Meltem # 19, Western Med


Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement

Nick Newington
 

How about doing away with a Bowthruster altogether?
My last boat was a Bowman 46, 46 ft with long fin and skeg rudder,  never had one, managed very well without…used prop kick and knowledge to stay in control. If two or more up, could launch the dinghy with 15hp that could be used as a tug.
I would consider really good davits or stern arch with easy dinghy launch as a cost effective, seaman like solution.
Less is sometimes more.

Good luck
Nick
S/Y Amelia
AML 54-019
Turkey


On 7 Nov 2021, at 01:18, JB Duler <jbduler@...> wrote:

Chris,

Thank you for that link to the jet system. Never heard about this company. Really great find. I love it, no more seals, special parts, anodes, and clunky systems. Anybody on the forum has any experience with that system?
--
John Bernard "JB" Duler
San Francisco
Meltem # 19, Western Med


Re: QUICK Water Heater

Michael Winand
 

Thanks Bill,  it is a 40l quick,  nautic,  made in Italy,  1998 , great work,  good clean needed and done,  no provision for annode inside the heater, it is connected to the rudder annode,  hope it lasts another 20years.
Michael,  Elaine  Nebo sm251 

On Sat, 6 Nov 2021, 1:16 pm Bill Kinney, <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:
Elaine,

The Quick heaters are stainless. 304 stainless is frequently slightly magnetic.  It's possible that the rust you see is more from the water than the heater.  Many sources of water are rich in iron, and it can precipitate when it is heated. If the inside lining is not rough and pitted I would clean it up and call it good.

Are you sure the Quick is the original heater?  I haven't seen any Quick equipment as original on an Amel.  I thought the only water heaters used in the SMs were Isotherms.  Certainly true on boat both older, and newer, than yours.  But Amel did experiment throughout the production run, so anything is possible.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hilton Head, SC, USA


Re: Volvo Heat Exchanger

Bill Kinney
 

Pat,

I am not entirely sure I understand your exact question, but if you are asking about the orientation of the rubber fittings that are on the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger bundle it DOES matter.  Here is the drawing from the shop manual with the correct arrangement.

If you are talking about the holes in the sleeve around the core itself, the shop manual does not specify their orientation, but they are shown in the drawing as facing up.  My recollection is that it the orientation is fixed, and it only goes all the way in if it is oriented correctly, but it has been a while since I had this apart.



Also, you might just be sweating the temperature a bit tighter than the engine is designed for.  The official Volvo specifications for the thermostat read like this:

Starts opening at 75º-85℃ (167º-185℉)
Fully open at 92º-98℃ (197º-208℉)

Even though is is called a "80℃" engine, there is a good bit of wiggle around it.

Our engine will idle at 180℉ and run steady between 2000 and 2500 RPM at 200℉ as measured by the dash gauge.

With any infrared temperature measurement device getting an exact reading of the ACTUAL temperature is not really possible.  To do that you need to know the "emissivity" of the surface you are measuring.  This is rarely known with precision.  An infrared thermometer should be considered to be repeatable, but not very accurate.  They are great for checking to see if something has changed, but not so good at measuring an exact value to compare to a specification.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hilton Head Island, SC, USA


Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement

JB Duler
 

Chris,

Thank you for that link to the jet system. Never heard about this company. Really great find. I love it, no more seals, special parts, anodes, and clunky systems. Anybody on the forum has any experience with that system?
--
John Bernard "JB" Duler
San Francisco
Meltem # 19, Western Med


Re: Volvo Heat Exchanger

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Pat, bit of a problem with the infrared temp sensors. Can you find a known heat to test them on. My check is standing on the engine barefoot as I drop in to do stuff after motoring. Might sound crude but when you do it all the time you get to know the norm and soon pick any change.

Danny (green with envy at your Bahamas cruise)

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 07 November 2021 at 10:15 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

I have been dealing with an overheating problem on my Volvo TMD 22A for a couple of years. At this point I am not sure if I have much of an issue, I don't know because I have four infrared guns ,two sort of agree ,two others ,more expensive show different temps,sometimes 20 degrees apart. At 2500 rpms I may be at 185 or it could be 197 at the thermostat , depending on which gun you choose to believe . 
I have done everything ,supply lines ,exhaust elbow . new thermostat, new pump impeller and cover . My question, I took out the heat exchanger core today ,it was clean (since I clean it every year) ,.Does it matter the orientation  of the holes in the core ? If the water exits down at the front of the vessel ,should the holes face down ,does that really matter , I don't think it would ,but want to ask in case it does. I am grasping at every straw . 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Volvo Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

I have been dealing with an overheating problem on my Volvo TMD 22A for a couple of years. At this point I am not sure if I have much of an issue, I don't know because I have four infrared guns ,two sort of agree ,two others ,more expensive show different temps,sometimes 20 degrees apart. At 2500 rpms I may be at 185 or it could be 197 at the thermostat , depending on which gun you choose to believe . 
I have done everything ,supply lines ,exhaust elbow . new thermostat, new pump impeller and cover . My question, I took out the heat exchanger core today ,it was clean (since I clean it every year) ,.Does it matter the orientation  of the holes in the core ? If the water exits down at the front of the vessel ,should the holes face down ,does that really matter , I don't think it would ,but want to ask in case it does. I am grasping at every straw . 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Slavako. I used Micron 66 for years. OK for a start but latterly I suspected a change in formulation as it got progressively less effective with each use.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Mangonui New Zealand

On 05 November 2021 at 08:37 Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:

Just checked on International web site and Micron 66 is "retired". No replacement have been mentioned. It is mentioned on Australia site, not on others. Local dealer in Croatia is saying Trilux 33. That is the one that is on Bonne Anse.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia

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