|
Re: A/C fan speed
I believe that somewhere about mid-production of the A-54 the Climma Compact units changed from capacitor-controlled fan speed to a semiconductor-controlled fan speed. If you have the "before
semiconductor-controlled fan speed," I believe that you probably have one of the two PCBs below.  The "C1" in the middle can be 4.0 rather than 3.15 
On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 11:56 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote: Not much help but if the fan keeps running at max speed it’s typically a semiconductor (MOS-FET, Power transistor, etc.) that has given up and acts like a full conductor. You could try to trace the circuit for the fan to see if you see a big transistor-like component. Often it will be attached to some cooling body. Make sure the unit has no power.
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: A/C fan speed
Not much help but if the fan keeps running at max speed it’s typically a semiconductor (MOS-FET, Power transistor, etc.) that has given up and acts like a full conductor. You could try to trace the circuit for the fan to see if you see a big transistor-like component. Often it will be attached to some cooling body. Make sure the unit has no power.
Now you can measure across the connection points of the component. If you see zero ohm resistance across some of the points the component is suspect and has to be desoldered. Again measure the resistance across the contacts. If it again measures (close to) zero ohm chances are you found the problem. I have not seen a proper schematic diagram for the Climma units. Cheers, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
A/C fan speed
Mohammad Shirloo
The A/C fan speed in the master cabin does not change and stays at 4, regardless of the setting. I’m suspecting a capacitor issue, but was wondering if anyone has seen a troubleshooting guide that helps pinpoint the issue as to which one, or the controller or something else?
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction
Mohammad Shirloo
Agreed. Although with practice it is possible to back an Amel without a bowthruster, in tight marinas with cross wind, it is not wise. In The Med, I consider the bowthruster, a safety item that should not be down for long.
Get Outlook for iOS
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io <brouse@...>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 6:03:32 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster does not work in one direction
The fact that a SidePower dealer in Croatia had 2 solenoids in stock should be a sign to all SidePower owners that it is a really good thing to have one of these available to replace when the original is 8-10 years old.
Bill
On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 10:54 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction
The fact that a SidePower dealer in Croatia had 2 solenoids in stock should be a sign to all SidePower owners that it is a really good thing to have one of these available to replace when the original is 8-10 years old. Bill
On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 10:54 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote: Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction
Mohammad Shirloo
Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Spinnaker pole strut mast fitting ball joint replacement?
Here’s a picture of the finished product. Still needs a final “fit&finish”.
-- Kevin & Kristen Schmit KIANA  SM #362
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Spinnaker pole strut mast fitting ball joint replacement?
-- Kevin & Kristen Schmit KIANA SM #362
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4
Scott SV Tengah
I attached the Mastervolt BATTERY temperature sensor to the outer casing of the MV110 amp alternator and wired it to the Alpha Pro II alternator temperature sensor input. Mastervolt techs said this is ok. While this may not be inside, I also seem to remember that the MV software sets the cutoff temperature for the alternator MUCH higher than 115C. I have had this setup for over 2 years with my lifepo4 setup and have definitely run it for 2-3+ hours at max output with no problems. Of course by saying that, my alternator will fail tomorrow. :)
On Thu, Jul 15, 2021 at 2:24 AM Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: wheel removal
Hi Eric,
tool I used to remove wheel. regards. -- Slavko SM 2000 #279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: wheel removal
Patrick McAneny
Eric ,My center wheel plate was made of aluminum and came off easily, the wheel itself took a lot of pressure to remove.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 3:37 am Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] wheel removal I am planning to take the wheel, the main furling gearbox, and the outhaul gearbox off of Kimberlite and have them powder coated . Then the wheel will have new leather installed. The Amel plate in the center of the wheel plate is not cooperating. I believe the plate is stainless and the wheel is aluminum , I think galvanic corrosion is my problem.
Beside removing the 2 screws from the Amel plate in the center of the wheel, is there some trick to remove the plate?.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberlite
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4
Dominique Sery <dominiquesery@...>
Hello Dean, the Mastervolt alternator temperature is 115° C after one one hour at 95 A and stay at 115°. I put an alternator temperature sensor but it does not work very well because i put it
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: wheel removal
Alan Grayson
Mine had nothing except the 2 screws holding it on but still needed a small pick to pry under the edges to remove it.
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Ft Lauderdale
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2021 3:37:01 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] wheel removal
I am planning to take the wheel, the main furling gearbox, and the outhaul gearbox off of Kimberlite and have them powder coated . Then the wheel will have new leather installed. The Amel plate in the center of the wheel plate is not cooperating. I believe the plate is stainless and the wheel is aluminum , I think galvanic corrosion is my problem. Beside removing the 2 screws from the Amel plate in the center of the wheel, is there some trick to remove the plate?. Fair Winds, Eric Sm 376 Kimberlite
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
wheel removal
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
I am planning to take the wheel, the main furling gearbox, and the outhaul gearbox off of Kimberlite and have them powder coated . Then the wheel will have new leather installed. The Amel plate in the center of the wheel plate is not cooperating. I believe the plate is stainless and the wheel is aluminum , I think galvanic corrosion is my problem. Beside removing the 2 screws from the Amel plate in the center of the wheel, is there some trick to remove the plate?. Fair Winds, Eric Sm 376 Kimberlite
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Spinnaker pole strut mast fitting ball joint replacement?
FYI,
Maude got back to me last week with a replacement. It appears that Amel has switched from a plastic to an aluminum ball joint. I’m going to attempt to fabricate my own on a lathe using Natural HDPE rod. I’ll share with the group how it “turns” (ha-ha pun…) out.
Regards,
Kevin Schmit SM #362 Portsmouth, NH
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
-- Kevin & Kristen Schmit KIANA SM #362
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Intermittent starting issue
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Hi Bob, The wiring diagram of the “B” panel is in the back of the parts manual. Fair Winds, Eric Sm 376 Kimberlite
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 5:17 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue
Agree with Danny as a first intervention and prevention. We very occasionally squirt Corrosion-X right into the starter key hole and ditto for the battery switches, etc. Worth doing first and no downside. BTW we also squirt that crazy Yanmar electrical connection plug--the one with a bazillion wires--I'd love to see someone publish a diagram of that thing.
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Intermittent starting issue
rossirossix4
Agree with Danny as a first intervention and prevention. We very occasionally squirt Corrosion-X right into the starter key hole and ditto for the battery switches, etc. Worth doing first and no downside. BTW we also squirt that crazy Yanmar electrical connection plug--the one with a bazillion wires--I'd love to see someone publish a diagram of that thing.
Bob-- KAIMI SM429
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Intermittent starting issue
Patrick McAneny
Danny, That is good advise, and I have not done that nearly enough. I will start to make that part of my routine . Yes , it is Diane's birthday ,leaving for dinner in a bit. She just told me Yvonne texted a Happy Birthday wish on July 14 your time ,so was the first ,as we are a day behind. Saw your birthday pics last week on F/B , your looking fit.
Thanks for the tip.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River, Md.
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Wed, Jul 14, 2021 5:29 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue Hi Pat, was there a birthday in your family recently? Happy birthday.
As to contacts. I have said this a number of times before. The sea environment is brutal and unless we protect our contacts we will inevitably get failures. Corrosion, like rust, never sleeps. I use CRC 556 marine. WD 40 is a first cousin. Spray all electrical connections regularly, say once every six months. It is a whole lot easier than hunting down failed connections. I spray behind all instruments and switch panels. Over all alternators and starter motors and associated connections. Over and INTO (caps deliberate) the water pump for the air con. Mounted so low it is in a very vulnerable position. I also go all round the engine room and spray all metal parts and particularly hose clamps.
One Amel friend said to me on looking into my engine room. How come you don't have rust like mine. I smiled and shook my can of CRC
Caution, be sure to only use product that is rated for electrical use. One person I know once sprayed the back of his radios with a product including a longer lasting lubricant additive. He was about to start an ocean race and lost the use of his radios.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 15 July 2021 at 01:40 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Shaft alternator on Santorin don’t work
ste.dente
Hi Ian,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
thanks for your answer. Yes, the alternator has been working before this; I didn’t use it so much because of the poor wind in Mediterranean Sea that means poor speed under sail. How do you think I should control the actuating circuit? Is the normal tester sufficient or do I need something else? Do you know if there is a relay in the actuating circuit? Last question: do you have on your Santorin also the red light under the green? Thanks and fair wind Stefania
Il giorno 14 lug 2021, alle ore 23:32, Ian Park <parkianj@...> ha scritto:
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Re: Shaft alternator on Santorin don’t work
Ian Park
Stefanie
Your English is very good. My Santorin is 1994, no 96. The main thing that should happen when you turn the key (as well as the green light turning on) is an instant decrease in the propellor shaft revolutions. This is caused by the alternator producing resistance by producing electricity. No decrease, no electricity. I am not an alternator specialist, but this must mean the that there is a problem with the actuating circuit from the key. Has the alternator been working before this? Ian Ocean Hobo SN 96.
|
|||||||||||
|
|
