Hi Jean Luc,
What model Amel do you have?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberite

On October 30, 2020 at 1:21 AM "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

On CottonBay I messured in the past the bow thruster curent :

https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/photo/84720/1?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0

Jean Luc

CottonBay

---

Le 29/10/2020 à 21:46, Karen Smith via groups.io a écrit :

Our SM#160 bow thruster draws about 485 Amps when it is running.  The exact power calculation is complicated because the voltage is not steady at 24 volts, but drops quickly, and significantly, under this load.  The reason the wire looks undersized by standard calculations is that it operates on a very short duty cycle, so heating of the wire is minimal.  If you were to try to push 500 Amps through that wire for an hour, you'd have a real problem.  

At least on our boat, the "bow thruster" cable carries all the 24V power to everything forward of the forward saloon bulkhead.  Mast and genoa furlers, cabin lights, nav lights, windlass...

We have fused our battery bank in two different ways, and both worked well. Keep in mind we have a bank of 4 pairs of batteries, smaller than yours which I believe is 6 pairs.  

Our batteries were first fused with four 125 Amp rated battery terminal fuses, one on each 24V positive, for a total of 500 Amps.  With 6 pairs of batteries you'd end up in the about same place with 80 or 90 Amp rated fuses.  When we changed battery brands, the terminal fuse holders no longer fit under the battery box lid, so we switched to a singe 500 AMP ANL-style fuse.  Never have any of these tripped.

We have also reworked the whole 24 volt distribution system so EACH of the wires leaving the battery box has a fuse appropriate to its ampacity, and the switches now interrupt current to everything except the bilge pump circuit.  To me this is a really basic safety issue.  If there was ever to be an electrical fire on the boat, or a piece of runaway equipment, I need to know I can shut off the power to everything without delay.

On the boats I have seen, Amel was very inconsistent about what wires they connected to which side of the main switches. On our boat, only the battery charger, bilge pump, and "always on 12V converter" were connected to the unswitched side. I think on later boats they just ran out of space on the stud on the switched side, so were forced to move wires to the unswitched post. 

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD

 

 

On October 30, 2020 at 1:21 AM "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

On CottonBay I messured in the past the bow thruster curent :

https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/photo/84720/1?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0

Jean Luc

CottonBay

---

Le 29/10/2020 à 21:46, Karen Smith via groups.io a écrit :

Our SM#160 bow thruster draws about 485 Amps when it is running.  The exact power calculation is complicated because the voltage is not steady at 24 volts, but drops quickly, and significantly, under this load.  The reason the wire looks undersized by standard calculations is that it operates on a very short duty cycle, so heating of the wire is minimal.  If you were to try to push 500 Amps through that wire for an hour, you'd have a real problem.  

At least on our boat, the "bow thruster" cable carries all the 24V power to everything forward of the forward saloon bulkhead.  Mast and genoa furlers, cabin lights, nav lights, windlass...

We have fused our battery bank in two different ways, and both worked well. Keep in mind we have a bank of 4 pairs of batteries, smaller than yours which I believe is 6 pairs.  

Our batteries were first fused with four 125 Amp rated battery terminal fuses, one on each 24V positive, for a total of 500 Amps.  With 6 pairs of batteries you'd end up in the about same place with 80 or 90 Amp rated fuses.  When we changed battery brands, the terminal fuse holders no longer fit under the battery box lid, so we switched to a singe 500 AMP ANL-style fuse.  Never have any of these tripped.

We have also reworked the whole 24 volt distribution system so EACH of the wires leaving the battery box has a fuse appropriate to its ampacity, and the switches now interrupt current to everything except the bilge pump circuit.  To me this is a really basic safety issue.  If there was ever to be an electrical fire on the boat, or a piece of runaway equipment, I need to know I can shut off the power to everything without delay.

On the boats I have seen, Amel was very inconsistent about what wires they connected to which side of the main switches. On our boat, only the battery charger, bilge pump, and "always on 12V converter" were connected to the unswitched side. I think on later boats they just ran out of space on the stud on the switched side, so were forced to move wires to the unswitched post. 

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD

Our SM#160 bow thruster draws about 485 Amps when it is running.  The exact power calculation is complicated because the voltage is not steady at 24 volts, but drops quickly, and significantly, under this load.  The reason the wire looks undersized by standard calculations is that it operates on a very short duty cycle, so heating of the wire is minimal.  If you were to try to push 500 Amps through that wire for an hour, you'd have a real problem.  

At least on our boat, the "bow thruster" cable carries all the 24V power to everything forward of the forward saloon bulkhead.  Mast and genoa furlers, cabin lights, nav lights, windlass...

We have fused our battery bank in two different ways, and both worked well. Keep in mind we have a bank of 4 pairs of batteries, smaller than yours which I believe is 6 pairs.  

Our batteries were first fused with four 125 Amp rated battery terminal fuses, one on each 24V positive, for a total of 500 Amps.  With 6 pairs of batteries you'd end up in the about same place with 80 or 90 Amp rated fuses.  When we changed battery brands, the terminal fuse holders no longer fit under the battery box lid, so we switched to a singe 500 AMP ANL-style fuse.  Never have any of these tripped.

We have also reworked the whole 24 volt distribution system so EACH of the wires leaving the battery box has a fuse appropriate to its ampacity, and the switches now interrupt current to everything except the bilge pump circuit.  To me this is a really basic safety issue.  If there was ever to be an electrical fire on the boat, or a piece of runaway equipment, I need to know I can shut off the power to everything without delay.

On the boats I have seen, Amel was very inconsistent about what wires they connected to which side of the main switches. On our boat, only the battery charger, bilge pump, and "always on 12V converter" were connected to the unswitched side. I think on later boats they just ran out of space on the stud on the switched side, so were forced to move wires to the unswitched post. 

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD

On 29 Oct 2020, at 20:13, Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

We furled too loosely and jammed once. We got ours loose the same way. Back and forth, tighten the furler, tighten the outhaul, loosen a bit, then repeat... a lot.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:04 PM, Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...> wrote:

Start by furling as tightly as possible then streach the out haul loosen and repeat 

On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Do as Bill says and use the winch handle, but on my previous boat (not AMEL) the furling main jammed a few times - usually when rolled too loosely. I found it helped to pull downwards hard on the leach of the sail. You may need to release or slacken the short rope on the clew first. It may help too if someone can reach up and push the sail/foil inwards (away from the mast slot). Good luck.

Start by furling as tightly as possible then streach the out haul loosen and repeat 

On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Do as Bill says and use the winch handle, but on my previous boat (not AMEL) the furling main jammed a few times - usually when rolled too loosely. I found it helped to pull downwards hard on the leach of the sail. You may need to release or slacken the short rope on the clew first. It may help too if someone can reach up and push the sail/foil inwards (away from the mast slot). Good luck.

On October 29, 2020 at 2:38 PM Philippe Belloir <pbelloir@...> wrote:

It s forbidden to violat W=VxA, :-) so you have to make a deal with 7000 and/or 510. I guess 24 is right.

Possible you can see W on the motor ?

Philippe Belloir  

+33 781 709 791

-------- Message d'origine --------

De : Chris Doucette <amaroksailing@...>

Date : 29/10/2020 19:23 (GMT+01:00)

À : "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>

Objet : [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Amps rating.

Hi- maybe someone can help me understand... The Super Maramu 2k Manual shows that the bow thruster draws 7000W and 510A at 24V.  Is this correct?  If so, how does the math work out?  W=VxA is violated AND no reasonable wire size is rated for that 24v DC..\

 I am trying to properly fuse my battery bank and this beast is the crux.

Chris 

SV Amarok 285

On Oct 29, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Do as Bill says and use the winch handle, but on my previous boat (not AMEL) the furling main jammed a few times - usually when rolled too loosely. I found it helped to pull downwards hard on the leach of the sail. You may need to release or slacken the short rope on the clew first. It may help too if someone can reach up and push the sail/foil inwards (away from the mast slot). Good luck.

On Oct 29, 2020, at 10:30, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Hi all,

 

With Coppercoat, my understanding is that scraping should be done 2-4 times a year depending on where you are. My question is: does it matter of the hull is not scraped for an extended period, say 9-12 months? Would this make it any more difficult to clean the hull later? Or even be detrimental in any way?

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98