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Re: Anchor sizing
Dominique Sery <dominiquesery@...>
Hello,
With my 54 I had several failures with the supplied original Wasi 30 kg anchor which I consider undersized and decided to change the size and brand.
After a long hesitation, I installed a Rocna of 55 kg 3 years ago.
I sail in Greece and I often have sudden gusts of wind.
Now, since this change, the anchor has never failed (even with 50 knots of wind at anchor).
No regrets and the anchor goes very well in the davit.
Dominique
Irko 1  A54-16
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Re: main sail furler gear box maramu 1986
precision. i found this photo see attachement
at the step 2, impossible to go up enough to liberate the swivel. The slot on the furling tube in the mast is just in front (i take the sail out) any advise, solution, thank yyou Philippe
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Re: Anchor sizing
FYI delos did modify their anchor roller to accept the Mantus
-----Original Message-----
From: Sheriffdep via groups.io <velocitybts@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Mon, Sep 14, 2020 8:12 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Anchor sizing From mostly what I have read the Mantus actors are one of the best and a solid choice in any anchoring conditions. Not heard a negative thing about them. Delos put a "80lb" or thereabout one on and it fit the SM2k bow. I have also heard the Mantus swivels are the swivels of choice. Not cheap for any of it but that is one area where I will not go cheap to save a buck. Peace of mind so to speak. Hope this helps
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SEAFLO Marine Air Conditioning Seawater Circulation AC Pump 500GPH 220V eBay
Has anyone tried this Seaflo air con circulating pump?
It is the magnetic type, so no risk of leaks. My existing one is a big beast and still works but a bit fragile now. According to the labels on the Units I need 3 x 9 litres per minute. So 27 which is less than this one..
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Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000
Steve Bell s/y Dusk SM378
Hi Mike. Since we purchased Dusk and the the previous owners have had start problems with the genset . They even had parrelled a smaller battery next to the genset which helped but in hindsight was not a good idea as the batteries were not the same.rating and the smaller battery was being overcharged so i was determined to try and resolve the problem. I had the genset serviced and had the fuel.pump negative solenoid terminal block all replaced which seemed.to.fix the problem however within 24hrs i was back to square one. The owner of the company who serviced the genset was extremely embarrassed and personally came out to try and find the problem. 2hrs later the problem seems.to be solved and bolied down to a faulty k3 relay for.the pre heat plugs as we are in the meditterean he said it was not neccassary to pre heat the plugs with he present weather conditions so he removed it and suggested i buy a new one when i got the chance he suggested to try and get a 70amp one as opposed to the present 30amp one For 3.months we have not had a problem starting the genset with the realy removed whilst this may not be your problem it may be worthwhile removing the relay and trying it out. We purchased a new relay for 7 euro regards steve s/y Dusk
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locked
Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222 <Bijorka@...>
He good morning
You use 200 AH at ancor ? It ist too much we need 120 Ah in summer in greece . What yo have running ? When i at see i woud take a hydro generator . Best Elja SM Balu 222 Von meinem iPhone gesendet
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Re: Anchor sizing
Love my Mantus and would never switch (unless a new new thing comes out), but one time it was so solidly set that the shank bent about 30° while retrieving it in the morning after an overnight current and wind shift. It was so well set that the windlass couldn't break it out and I had to motor directly over it and needed some substantial rpms to break it free. So even at a 1:1 scope it was still holding like crazy. (No rocks - just hard mud in the ICW off Mar-A-Lago.) They sent me a new shank at no cost. They are a super anchor, but nothing's bullet proof. The Mantus T-shirt rocks, though.
Cheers, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL 
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locked
Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -
Sheriffdep
Thank you Scott for the additional information!!!!!
Going back to basics for this topic: 1. Building a bank out of cells - from what I can see the really good cells that can be bought and put together (Will Prowse website) costs are around 1k for a 24v 100ah battery. However not sure how things add up with other cells. Plus adding a good BMS and a separate Battery Conditioner to wire to the investor for higher amp loads etc... price seems to be about half of the BB 400ah 24v setup. Questions for that - is it worth doing all the setup yourself and not entirely having the warranty for 10yrs to save maybe half or less? I am all for DIY and can learn to do it but my goal would be to get much more amp hr's for less or similar money but have at least the same known reliability. 2. I am understanding the LFEPO4 batts should be kept between 80% and 30%. so that turns a 400ah bank into a 200ah useful plus whatever solar you may have. From my calculations on a SM2k I would be using at anchor without using the AC around 200ah per day. It seems with the electronics running for passage you would add another 150ah + to your daily use. (chart plotter is 5ah so 2x of them would be 100ah for the day). Also if you increase the bank size you then would be using less cycles than if you didn't increase it. The LFEPO4 batteries claim 80%SOC at the end of 3K cycles +. From several YouTube boats showing a year on the LFEPO4 batts and having around 1k solar watts they showed using approximately 115 cycles for that year. That would mean 10yrs or so for 1k cycles. Batts mathematically should last at least 30yrs at the same rate. Ok we don't trust them that much and they haven't been around long enough but doing the math nothing even comes close to comparing. It seems a no brainer to go with them but now the choice for most of us is whether we DIY a bank or go the BB route.
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Re: Anchor sizing
Sheriffdep
From mostly what I have read the Mantus actors are one of the best and a solid choice in any anchoring conditions. Not heard a negative thing about them. Delos put a "80lb" or thereabout one on and it fit the SM2k bow. I have also heard the Mantus swivels are the swivels of choice. Not cheap for any of it but that is one area where I will not go cheap to save a buck. Peace of mind so to speak. Hope this helps
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Re: Anchor sizing
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
Hi James & Arlo,
It's not an issue as I don't think Arlo is looking for a replacement, but the CAV unit James linked is quite different and doesn't have the "sedimenter sensor" as the Perkins version does. These units are actually labeled as Perkins parts with their blue logo (certainly manufactured for Perkins). I suspect they are discontinued, but any brand with an electric sedimenter sensor would work if you needed it. Cheers, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000
It should be noted that in the Onan instructions and on the remote start
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
switch it states 20 seconds in the maximum for the pre-heat. With best regards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Jose Venegas via groups.io Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 9:14 AM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000 Hi Mike, When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you. Hi Mike, When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you.
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Solenoid question
smiles bernard
Hello all
I have a question that i am struggling with and wondered if the amel hive mind could shed some light. I recently disconnected all batteries and solar I then reconnected and seem to have lost control of my windlass and furler solenoids. The furler is the easiest to access the electrics on so I’ve been rummaging about with a multimeter The solenoid has power The Control switches in the cockpit have power The Cable from these cockpit switches to the solenoid control terminals is continuous. No inline fuses that I can see and in good shape yet the voltage at these solenoid terminals is <1 volt when the switches are activated. I have yet to try and feed 12v to the solenoid control terminals direct but can’t think how I’m getting the almost complete voltage drop. The windlass solenoid is in the same locker in the forepeak. I’ve tested it less but again it has power yet is not working. Bit flummoxed Any thoughts or suggestions most welcome Perhaps I caused a voltage surge reconnecting my batteries? But no fuses in the control lines that I can see. All the very best Miles Maramu 162
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
smiles bernard
Hi there
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Yes I also have one in my maramu + Perkins M65 Just a water filter & no cartridge to replace On our boat this then leads to a dual spin on primary filter unit and then finally onto the secondary Engine mounted filter I just drain it occasionally into a glass jar and see what’s lurking in the bowl. So far it’s always been clean btw. All the best Miles
On 14 Sep 2020, at 20:00, James Alton via groups.io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
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Re: Bow-thruster repair at anchor
Grant thank you!
I ordered from Maud at Amel, where I order most of the spare parts Paul
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Re: Anchor sizing
Wolfgang Weber <webercardio@...>
If you use your anchor and chain in saltwater with 25 deg.Celcius I would recommend galvanised anchor chain, otherwise your chain will look nice but will have pinhole damages and will break with obvious outside good looking. Spare the money for stainless steal and buy some jewellery for your wife/friend, Wolfgang Weber(Germany) SY Elise Amel 54#162(Fort Lauderdale)
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Re: Onan MDKAL Generator Fuel Solenoid SM2000
Hi Mike,
When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you. Hi Mike, When I bought the boat the previous owner told me that the generator needed to be preheated for at least 20 seconds. I do that every time and it starts every time. I hope this helps you.
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
James Alton
Arlo,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
My apologies. After taking a closer look, I think that Craig is correct that what you have is a fuel water separator that does not have a filter inside. I was looking at the top portion of your photo which looks identical to the filter housing that I have on my boat but the bottom part of yours does look different than mine. I believe that this link shows what you have: https://www.asap-supplies.com/products/drive-force-cav-fuel-separator-45lph-alloy-bowl-302005 Best, James Alton
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Re: change standing rigging SM
There is a wealth of info on the Amel Blogs. Also Bill Rouse is a great resource. Aras Sharki #163 1988
On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 11:55 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote: Hi; -- Aras Grinius
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Re: Mango fuel filter question
Hi Arlo,
That looks like a filter but it is actually a Perkins pre-filter water separator (no filter inside). It has two wires coming out the bottom from a "fuel sedimenter sensor" that activates your water-in-diesel alarm. For maintenance just pop it open and clean it out. Check the wire connections while you're at it. For fun you can put some water on the sensor and see if your alarm goes off. Cheers -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
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