Date   

Re: How to prevent In Mast furler profile banging inside the mast?

heinz@quetzal.berlin
 

For every turn go 1 m deeper

Mit freundlichen Grüßen 
Heinz Stutenbäumer



Am 13.11.2021 um 15:53 schrieb EricOpdeweegh <sv.abayomi@...>:

Thanks Heinz and Craig

I will go for the Heinz idea right away.

Eric and Els Opdeweegh
sv Abayomi 
SM 158

--
Hello 
Since yesterday when I tried to park in a box in a marina in Auckland my bow thruster motor failed. 
If I turn the beam to the left or right the whole power supply breaks down for a moment. After that the power is back. 
I took the rudder off and it can be turned perfectly by hand. 
But the same happens with the engine. No power for a few seconds, all instruments off, no rotation of the motor. 
Does anyone know this problem. 
Does anyone know how I can find out if it's the motor or maybe a relay that doesn't work. 
Can I test the motor without a relay, maybe on the 4 cables marked D1, D2, and A1, A2?
I am grateful for a quick answer.
Heinz SY Quetzal, SM 2000, 292


Re: How to prevent In Mast furler profile banging inside the mast?

EricOpdeweegh
 

Thanks Heinz and Craig

I will go for the Heinz idea right away.

Eric and Els Opdeweegh
sv Abayomi 
SM 158


Re: How to prevent In Mast furler profile banging inside the mast?

Heinz Stutenbaeumer
 

Tie a long rope 10mm to the siwiel. Pull it up. Turn the furler 5 times. No more bangs
Cheers Heinz

Am 13.11.2021 14:47 schrieb EricOpdeweegh <sv.abayomi@...>:

Hello Amelians

We have taken down/off the Main sail and Mizzen sail for a short period.
Does anyone have a trick to prevent the furler profile from banging and moving in the mast while there is no sail on it?

Greets
Eric & Els Opdeweegh
sv Abayomi , SM 158
currently in Holland


Re: How to prevent In Mast furler profile banging inside the mast?

Craig Briggs
 

Swimming pool noodles.  Cut a few 30mm/1 foot pieces and slit them lengthwise to slip over the foil, string light messenger line to space them out and hoist with the halyard. Lower with the messenger line next spring. Only need a few. 
--
Craig Briggs - s/v Sangaris / SN68  Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Boom vang on a Maramu

Bill Kinney
 

Dennis,

 Got it! There is always an issue with topping lifts interacting with sails with horizontal battens and a lot of roach.  

I had that issue on my old boat.  The solution I installed (which might not work on a Maramu, depending on the exact geometry!) was to take 4 feet of bungee cord, lash one end to the line of the topping lift, then stretch it out to 7.5 feet, and lash the other end to the topping lift line again. (Note:  lengths might need adjusting depending on rig) If the bungee gets long enough, you sometimes have to lash it to the lift in the middle as well to avoid excess slack flopping around. The bungee pulls the "sloppy slack" out of the topping lift when the sail is up without having to constantly adjust its length.

Operationally, you set topping lift to hold the boom at the lowest possible angle that is safe to raise or lower the sail.  The bungee is now stretched out full length by the weight of the boom, and the topping lift line carries the weight. Raise the sail. The sail lifts the boom to its normal operating angle, and the bungee contracts, keeping the topping lift from going slack and flopping around, but not so tight that the sail can't push it out of the way as you change tacks. Depending on a lot of things, it might not pop around to windward, but it shouldn't interfere with sail shape even it it is on the leeward side.

With that system the only time I adjusted the topping lift at all was when it was time to put the sail to bed. I had a mark for "Sail down" and "Sail up" so it was pretty simple.

Again, not at all sure it will work for you, but it might make things a lot less frustrating. It's worth fussing with bungee sizes and lengths to come up with a combination that works.  You might need a considerable length of bungee cord, depending on how much the boom rises with each reef. Overall I think it is a much better solution (when it works) than cutting roach out of the sail.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA


How to prevent In Mast furler profile banging inside the mast?

EricOpdeweegh
 

Hello Amelians

We have taken down/off the Main sail and Mizzen sail for a short period.
Does anyone have a trick to prevent the furler profile from banging and moving in the mast while there is no sail on it?

Greets
Eric & Els Opdeweegh
sv Abayomi , SM 158
currently in Holland


Re: Super Maramu wall lamp shades

Craig Briggs
 

Richard et al,
Defender's has these for $13.27. Go to defender dot com and search for "Lamp Shades"  I bought 4 a few months ago.
--
Craig Briggs - s/v Sangaris / SN68  Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Where to buy Corrosion X

Jérémy
 

Hi,

I recently ordered a bottle of Corrosion X from https://www.corrosionx-online.de
They mistakenly sent me a bottle of HD version.
They apologized and wrote to me :
CorrosionX HD is the version with higher viscosity. Basically it`s the same liquid. Therefore depends on what you will do with CorrosionX. If you have seawater, for instance, you can have longer periods with corrosion protection
And they also sent me an other bottle of "normal" Corrosion X.

Just like Mike Augier said previously about this online shop : Fast, easy and friendly.

--
Jérémy
SM #121 Nausicaä
Nantes, France


Re: Super Maramu wall lamp shades

 

Richard, it is not uncommon to "re-cover" a lampshade. I think that you know Sailrite: 

Creative interior designers do this often:


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 3:46 PM Richard May via groups.io <airwisrich2000=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Victor, when you said "refit", what do you mean?  Looks like you painted, wrapped rope, and re-covered the shade?

I checked stock on the one Bill listed above today 11/12/21- None.   OEM Imtra is out of stock (discontinued) on both that fixture and shade.  Checked half dozen other sites (Apex, Ahoycaptain, RSTmarine, WestMarine, etc.) and nothing.  May be time for whole new fixture.


--
Richard May
SM 477 Avogato


Re: Super Maramu wall lamp shades

Richard May
 

Victor, when you said "refit", what do you mean?  Looks like you painted, wrapped rope, and re-covered the shade?

I checked stock on the one Bill listed above today 11/12/21- None.   OEM Imtra is out of stock (discontinued) on both that fixture and shade.  Checked half dozen other sites (Apex, Ahoycaptain, RSTmarine, WestMarine, etc.) and nothing.  May be time for whole new fixture.


--
Richard May
SM 477 Avogato


Re: Boom vang on a Maramu

Dennis Johns
 

Bill,

Early Maramus had a flaking mainsail not in-mast furling.  On my Maramu, the leach of the sail rubbed against the topping lift and would also get hung up on it.    So it was necessary to slacken the topping lift so the mainsail would tack properly and even then it could get hung up.  You had to remember to tighten the topping lift before dropping the sail.  In addition, the topping lift would prevent flattening the sail downwind, so it had to be slackened then as well.

Most early Maramu owners can attest to the annoyance of this condition unless they had a new mainsail cut so this would not be an issue.

Dennis Johns
Libertad
Maramu 121


On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 12:14 PM Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:
Lance,

I am curious, why the desire to get rid of the topping lift?  

I don't know exactly how that is set up on the Maramu, but on the SM it it completely functional, and requires NO input from the user.  It is just there, doing its job of holding up the boom when needed, and can be completely ignored when trimming sails. No adjustment, no tweaking. I can not imagine any arrangement that would be more function or
easier to deal with and require less interaction from the crew.

If yours does not work like this, it might just be in need of maintenance or repair, or maybe just a return to the original design?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA.


Re: Boom vang on a Maramu

Bill Kinney
 

Lance,

I am curious, why the desire to get rid of the topping lift?  

I don't know exactly how that is set up on the Maramu, but on the SM it it completely functional, and requires NO input from the user.  It is just there, doing its job of holding up the boom when needed, and can be completely ignored when trimming sails. No adjustment, no tweaking. I can not imagine any arrangement that would be more function or
easier to deal with and require less interaction from the crew.

If yours does not work like this, it might just be in need of maintenance or repair, or maybe just a return to the original design?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA.


ONAN MDKAW, PCB board for sale

Alexander Ramseyer
 

This PCB Board is relatively new, as it has been replaced in my old genset only 3 years ago.
I decided to change to a new generator.
Replacement boards for older ONAN generators are very hard (if not impossible) to find nowadays.
When I bought that board, it cost me ca. USD 1100.00 to get it down to Martinique 3 years ago. I heard that ONAN increased their prices substantially in the meantime.
Let me know what you think it is worth to you. Appreciate any realistic bid.
I also have a raw water pump (ca USD 250 new) that was installed in 2019. That and other spares that I will give away could add up to a very interesting package....


Re: Where to buy Corrosion X

 

Denis, I do not know the difference for sure. I think it is "marketing." The original (classic) CorrosionX was originally developed to control corrosion for the airplane industry and found wide use because of its success. I remember when there was only one product offered by the company. Now the company has many different branded products.

I have accidentally placed CorrosionX on Nitrile seals with no apparent adverse issue. CorrosionX states the following on their website: "Corrosion-X does not affect rubber, neoprene, monofilament, plastics, and plexiglass. All other kerosene-based products will attack and destroy rubber mounts, neoprene seals, fishing lines, and door seals. (If you do not use Corrosion-X, please do not use the cheap alternative near your rubber bushings or neoprene)."

I recommend that all seals are treated with silicone grease and have found the best product available today for use on Amels is Dow Corning 111 O-Ring Silicone Lubricant, also known as Molykote. 

Here is a list of everything I recommend for your Amel. You will find that the vast majority of Amel owners use most of these products.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 5:36 AM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:
Hello Bill,

Do you know the respective applications between Classic Corrosion X shown on picture and Corrosion X HD and Corrosion  aviation ?

Is it safe on seals ?

Thanks

Denis


Re: replacement rigging

Craig Briggs
 

Hi José,
Wow - that certainly adds a lot to the equivalent insurance cost. A shame insurance options are few.
Best regards.
--
Craig Briggs - s/v Sangaris / SN68  Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: main sheet winch service

 

Eloi, thanks and done.



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 2:32 AM Eloi Bamberg <eloi.bamberg@...> wrote:
Bill,
Thank you for your help. Meanwhile, with the help of Andrew from SY Ronpische, I managed to get it off. Maybe Bill Rouse can include this in his fantastic "Bible".

After opening the winch you can see the 5 screws holding down the tower.

Those were rather seized and difficult to open which made me think they where fixed with nuts (like the 2 16th winches on the mizzen). They are just screwed in the base of the winch, with a very large screwdriver and a lot of force, I managed to get them out and get the tower of. If you have to go further, you have first to get off the electrical motor (or rather the reducer of the motor). To do this you can reach 2 bolts from the small opening on the side of the mizzen base

and 2 more through the base of the winch, behind the white silicon plugs (one is already off on the picture).

Now the motor comes off at the panel in the aft head near the mirror an you have access to the nuts holding down the base off the winch.

Eloi
SM2K 426 RedLion


Re: Where to buy Corrosion X

Denis Foster
 

Hello Bill,

Do you know the respective applications between Classic Corrosion X shown on picture and Corrosion X HD and Corrosion  aviation ?

Is it safe on seals ?

Thanks

Denis


Re: replacement rigging

Jarek Zemlo
 

Jose Hi

I changed my rigging in 2020 and decided for BSI. Both ACMO and BSI are very good. I have no issues.
Jarek
SY NOA BLUE
SM 201


Re: main sheet winch service

Eloi Bamberg
 

Bill,
Thank you for your help. Meanwhile, with the help of Andrew from SY Ronpische, I managed to get it off. Maybe Bill Rouse can include this in his fantastic "Bible".

After opening the winch you can see the 5 screws holding down the tower.

Those were rather seized and difficult to open which made me think they where fixed with nuts (like the 2 16th winches on the mizzen). They are just screwed in the base of the winch, with a very large screwdriver and a lot of force, I managed to get them out and get the tower of. If you have to go further, you have first to get off the electrical motor (or rather the reducer of the motor). To do this you can reach 2 bolts from the small opening on the side of the mizzen base

and 2 more through the base of the winch, behind the white silicon plugs (one is already off on the picture).

Now the motor comes off at the panel in the aft head near the mirror an you have access to the nuts holding down the base off the winch.

Eloi
SM2K 426 RedLion


Re: SM Bow Thruster Motor bearing Snap Rings

Bill Kinney
 

Chris,

If you can get them out in one piece, (or at lease a few pieces!) any bearing supply house will have them.  Bring them in and they can match them up.

If the snap rings are that bad, there is a good chance that the bearings they are holding in place might need renewal too.

We have made it a routine that most larger, expensive, electric motors on our boat go into a motor shop every 4 or 5 years for a rebuild and full testing.  They can do a much more sophisticated job at testing and sorting out problems than we can.  Just as an example, between the coils and the rotor they want to see a resistance of something on the order of 2 GigaOhms!  I know none of my meters can come close to measuring that.  Also, if the brushes need replacing, usually the commutator needs turning.  I have done that with a bit of emery cloth, when I have had to, but having the rotor on a proper lathe makes the job a lot better.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA

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