Date   

Re: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

Matt Salatino
 

Oh, and we went sailing on a beautiful day today!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 7:15 PM, Matthew Salatino <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

Thanks! We had a blast. Of course, we thought of lots of other stuff worth demonstrating, AFTER the presentation ended!
Thanks for the opportunity, and it was a pleasure to play with you!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Tilo Peters <tilo.peters@...> wrote:

Thanks again Matt & Cindy for the tour, and thanks Bill for setting it all up!

I’ve processed the zoom video and added subtitles.

You can find it at https://youtu.be/PK2yf-Hzr58

Best,

Tilo

On 16May, 2020, at 23:41, David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...> wrote:

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan



Re: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

Matt Salatino
 

Thanks! We had a blast. Of course, we thought of lots of other stuff worth demonstrating, AFTER the presentation ended!
Thanks for the opportunity, and it was a pleasure to play with you!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Tilo Peters <tilo.peters@...> wrote:

Thanks again Matt & Cindy for the tour, and thanks Bill for setting it all up!

I’ve processed the zoom video and added subtitles.

You can find it at https://youtu.be/PK2yf-Hzr58

Best,

Tilo

On 16May, 2020, at 23:41, David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...> wrote:

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan



Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Reudi;

 

To clarify, in order for the sensor to be isolated, you need two wires. You cannot have an isolated single wire sensor, since it will utilize the engine block as the negative leg of the connection.

 

I’m pretty sure you can get the sensor from other suppliers as long as the thread, length and pressure setting of the switch is correct and the electrical connection of the sensor matches what is existing on your engine. The reason why we did not spend any time trying to source from a different location, was because we had already spent a month in Greece chasing the part, after having received the wrong part ordering from our serial number. We knew that the sensor was bad and therefore the low pressure warnings could be ignored, but it was unsettling to know that something else could have gone wrong that would have lead to an actual low pressure, that we would not know about.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 1:48 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Mohammad  

 

Thanks a lot for the information. That helps; - nevertheless it’s confusing that the sensor has 2 wires. Because you said they send a “single wire” non-isolated ground sensor. If I understood correctly, the single wire non-isolated ground sensor is wrong in these case?

 

So you can only get the right sensor in France by referencing the AMEL setup, right? If I find a sensor who has 2 wire terminals is supposing correct, but not 100%

 

Happy sailing

 

Ruedi and Sabina

WASABI A54#55

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 17. Mai 2020 um 03:08
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Ruedi;

 

In order for the sensor to be isolated ground, it needs to have 2 wires, since it cannot use the engine block as ground. If you use the serial number of the engine to order the part, a single wire non-isolated ground sensor will be sent. My understanding, in talking to Amel, is that Volvo ships the standard engine to Volvo France. Volvo France then does the required mods to Amel Specs, one of them being isolated ground. To my surprise, Volvo does not update this information in their data base to match the serial number.

 

Here's the contact information, provided by Amel, and part number that was correct for our engine:

GWEN MARINE Mr Gwenael Rambaud :   gwen@...

Part Number: 863169 Description: CAPTEUR PRESSION

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 10:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55


Main sail outhaul motor

Kaplan,Andre
 

I have a 1988 Mango no.71. On recommissioning this spring, the electric outhaul for the mainsail is not working. A quick look by a yard worker suggested the solenoid might be bad. Can someone give me advice on how to approach this problem? If the solenoid is bad, how can I replace it? Is there a standard solenoid that can replace the original? If so, what is the model that I need? Must I get the replacement from Amel? If the outhaul motor is bad, how and where can I get a replacement?
Thanks for any advice.

Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71 88


Re: Near constant hot water without a generator - Here is how i did it.

Matt Salatino
 

Eric,
Excellent configuration. Where do you get $C heating elements? And is there really a difference between AC and DC elements? Seems it would just be a resistance heater? Different resistance?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On May 17, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Eric Meury <ericmeury@...> wrote:

We have an santorin with no generator but have 1000 Watts of solar.  400 of those watts are shaded -  200 is behind the main mast flexible panels and 200 is on the new hard top bimini (room for more)  The bulk of the power comes from 600 Watts on the arch. 

Here is what we did.  

1.  Added the Victron 712 Battery Monitor that is bluetooth and replaced the Amel Shunt 

2.  Changed out the AC heating element for a 600 Watt DC element (300 Watt can be used as well)

3.  Added a Victron Battery Protect -  this serves as the relay and what powers the heating element.  - ie the heating element positive cable is connected to the battery protect .
 (BPR065022000 Victron Energy BPR065022000 Smart BatteryProtect with Bluetooth 12/24V - 65A) -  $59 bucks from pkys

4.  Disconnected the thermostat wire from the heating element and attached it directly to the relay.

Here is how it works -  The BMV has a relay setting.  This is set to Default mode but i changed the settings to Invert.  The Low SOC is set to 90 and 96.  What this means is that the relay will be powered when the SOC is anything above 90%.  When it gets to 90% it will turn off and will not turn back on again until the SOC is 96% (these can be changed)  -  This send a signal to the battery protect to "turn on" thus sending power to the heating element.  The battery protect has a shutdown setting of 12.4 volts  (i can change that to really anything but this was set to be an absolule failsafe to never let the batteries go below 12.4).  It turns back on when the batteries are 12.75. I have never seen 12.4 from my bank.   The tempature sensor is set to what ever the factory setting is...i  imagine it is 105 degrees (torried marine water heater).  

So everyday and a couple of times a day depending on how much water is used, my heater will turn on automatically in the mid morning as by that time i have recovered from the nightly discharge and am now above 96%/.  The element will draw a full 600 Watts until such time that either thhe SOC is 90% OR the tempature sensor says - he we are good and have plenty of hot water.  The first time i rant it it took a good 1.5 to 2 hours to get to that tempature. but my batteries never eached 90% as i'm usually producting 400-500 Watts and only have 600 watt drain so max i see going out during the day is 200-250 watts -  (if you use a 300 Watt Element and have plenty of solar you won't go negative but will talke longer)  Since i have this it only needs to run for maybe 15 to 20 mins and occastionally longer to keep the water at the tempature set by the tempature sensor.  

We now take a hot shower everyday and my 2 year old plays in a warm baby pool almost everyday.  -  All of this is powered with solar. (and soon to be wind)   

If i'm on the hard (which i am right now) it still works just the same and If i plug in heat water just by using the battery charger.  

If you have a desire (or don't have one) to not have to run your genset to heat water daily then this is a good way to go provided you have enough solar to make it happen.  We have one fridge and one freezer and a 12 volt home built spectra watermaker.  All of the settings are controlled from my phone via the victron connect app.  I can completley turn off the water heater by accessign the battery protect  - there is a setting to disable.  

I do not have lithium batteries but my bank is large with 4 - L16 Flooded Wet Cell batteries with 840 Amp hours.  


Re: SM Turnbuckle

Kaplan,Andre
 




On May 17, 2020, at 8:51 AM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
Hi John,
Like Gary, the chrome on my original rigging looked like new when I had her re-rigged at 13 years old. The new rigging  was from a well-respected company in England (sorry, I don't remember the name) that builds rigging for megayachts. When the chrome started failing on the turnbuckles after 3 years, I had it inspected by Annapolis rigging. They confirmed that it was only cosmetic. They also contacted the supplier who confirmed that they had had a bad batch of chrome that year. Unfortunately, it was out of warranty and they weren't willing to do any kind of refund.
I had a bronze turnbuckle machined locally which was not chromed. It actually looks better than the chromed turnbuckles.

Things are beginning to open up in Maryland now and Iris is starting her charter season next weekend ..with masks and as much "distancing" as possible. If all goes well with her new captains and crew, we hope to e sailing up to Maiy for July and Aug.  I hope you will be able to start moving again soon. What are your plans?
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243
St Michaels, MD
On May 16, 2020 9:55 AM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
While this is a tad late to the discussion, yes the ACMO turnbuckles are chrome plated bronze....and that chrome plating is my concern.  I had Caribe Greement in Martinique replace Annie's rigging in 2017.  Shortly afterward the chrome on the turnbuckles began to look weathered even though we rinsed them and kept them clean.  Here is a picture of the main mast backstay turnbuckle, the one in the cockpit.  This one is out of the weather and the chrome is pretty much done.  Has anyone else had this issue?  


John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Water Island USVI
  


Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

karkauai
 

Hi Reudi,
I have a Yanmar, so I can't be specific about your Volvo needs, but in general...
To purchase an (isolated ground) two-wire pressure or temp. SWITCH, you need to know the thread size and pressure or temp. spec recommended by Volvo. With that info you should be able to find what you need.

To purchase an isolated two wire pressure or temp SENDER for gauges, you also need the gauge manufacturer and model.  If the sender and gauge don't match, you will get either no reading or erroneous readings on your gauges.

Hope that helps,
Kent
Kristy
SM 243

On May 16, 2020 1:20 PM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55



Re: SM2K Genoa Jib Cart ANTAL 624.492/C Order pending in the US #replacement #spares #order

karkauai
 

Hi Michael & Robyn
Please add one to the order for us, too. Shipping to Maryland. My private email below.

Kent and Iris
Kristy
SM 243
karkauai "at "yahoo "dot" com

On May 15, 2020 5:19 PM, Michael & Robyn <SY_RIPPLE@...> wrote:
Greetings!
We are about to order spare ANTAL Genoa Jib Cart 624.492/C
it is a custom build version of http://www.antal.it/eng/624-492_en
We hear another AMEL owner is having an order pending too and we will get a good price approx. $360 per cart.
Anybody else interested to join the order?
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
still in Brunswick, GA



Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Eric Meury
 

Craig...adding as much solar completly changed how we cruised.  Before i would run a honda generator as we don't have a onboard diesel one.  You really can power the santorin with 100% solar.


Re: SM Turnbuckle

karkauai
 

Hi John,
Like Gary, the chrome on my original rigging looked like new when I had her re-rigged at 13 years old. The new rigging  was from a well-respected company in England (sorry, I don't remember the name) that builds rigging for megayachts. When the chrome started failing on the turnbuckles after 3 years, I had it inspected by Annapolis rigging. They confirmed that it was only cosmetic. They also contacted the supplier who confirmed that they had had a bad batch of chrome that year. Unfortunately, it was out of warranty and they weren't willing to do any kind of refund.
I had a bronze turnbuckle machined locally which was not chromed. It actually looks better than the chromed turnbuckles.

Things are beginning to open up in Maryland now and Iris is starting her charter season next weekend ..with masks and as much "distancing" as possible. If all goes well with her new captains and crew, we hope to e sailing up to Maiy for July and Aug.  I hope you will be able to start moving again soon. What are your plans?
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243
St Michaels, MD

On May 16, 2020 9:55 AM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
While this is a tad late to the discussion, yes the ACMO turnbuckles are chrome plated bronze....and that chrome plating is my concern.  I had Caribe Greement in Martinique replace Annie's rigging in 2017.  Shortly afterward the chrome on the turnbuckles began to look weathered even though we rinsed them and kept them clean.  Here is a picture of the main mast backstay turnbuckle, the one in the cockpit.  This one is out of the weather and the chrome is pretty much done.  Has anyone else had this issue?  


John Clark
SV Annie SM 37
Water Island USVI
  


Re: Zoom Meeting Presentation of the Amel 50 from La Rochelle #ZOOM

Tilo & Jeannette Peters
 

Thanks again Matt & Cindy for the tour, and thanks Bill for setting it all up!

I’ve processed the zoom video and added subtitles.

You can find it at https://youtu.be/PK2yf-Hzr58

Best,

Tilo

On 16May, 2020, at 23:41, David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz@...> wrote:

Matt & Cindy, thank you for a great meeting.  I happen to think this is an excellent way to stay in touch with the Amel community (I'm a new member as well).  My goal one of these days is to sail into La Rochelle on my Amel after crossing The Atlantic.  And perhaps as a future meeting, a tour of the Amel ship building facility would be really interesting.  And thanks also to Bill and Tilo for putting this together.

Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan



Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Greg A54 172
 

WOW Instalation!!!! Looks like nuc power station!
keep this one - its value is over the boat value!


Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Billy Newport
 

So,
I don't have an Amel yet but am buying a 55 right now. My current boat, a 2015 Jeanneau 439 has been fully converted to lithium/solar professionally. See photos here: (https://photos.app.goo.gl/YZv6xncC821Rquqn8).

My boat has all 110v AC plugs (including air conditioners) running on dual Victron Multiplus 3kw/120 inverter chargers. I have dual 560aH lithionics batteries with external BMS and a common load and charge bus. The victrons are connected to both the load and charge buses using dual runs (5ft) of 00 cable.

I have 3 air cons, dual dometic 9kw and a single 16kw. The 16kw has a smartstart. All 3 air cons are connected to a single Victron, the other house sockets (microwave, water heater and sockets) are on the other Victron.

The boat has 1200w of Solar and I get about 50A at peak in NYC and about 95a peak for more hours well south of here. I also have a 360a API alternator with a balmar mc614 temp compensated. The alternator is detuned to generate 230a at 63c temperature because of heat generation, it's like having a 5kw heater in the engine room...

I can run a single 9kw AC unit on invertors and charge the boat the following day when south of here. I can run all 3 units on inverters also.

I do see low voltage alarms from the inverter when the AC's kick on the compressors. Normal pull for a 16kw is about 10a @ 115v (remember I rarely get 120V into the boat, the dock power wobbles down as low as 112v and that also means it will pull more amps). Normal pull for the 9kws is about 7a @ 115V.

The Victron can supply 4.4kw for a minute and this allows a single Victron to run all 3 AC units at steady state BUT if the planets align and 2 units kick on simultaneously, even over 5 ft of dual 00 cables, I'll see 500a pulses from the lithiums and the victrons complain about low voltage briefly and then recover.

I have run all 3 units, a microwave, the water heater which pulls about 700a (max pull for a single battery is 400a so 800 for both) and it does trip there (the inverters trip on low voltage).

Looking at my desired Amel 55. The inverters are too far from the batteries. The batteries are under the galley sole, the inverters are on the port engine room wall. That's a much bigger run than on my current boat. 24v would possibly double the distance to maybe 10ft but you're still not better than my current system. I'd relocate the inverters in to the main cabin somehow if doing it again.

Heat wise, I've found the victrons only get really hot charging, not inverting. I run mine one over the other and needed to limit the top one to 60a to keep it from getting hot so I just push 120 + 60 a when on shower power which is plenty for me. On a generator, you might want 120+120 but then you need to cool it and I didn't have the space on my boat.

If I was running the boat in euro land then I would have added a 220v Victron charger. A smaller one would have worked fine (60a or similar) on shore power.

Billy (buying iolani hopefully)
So, it can be done.


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Craig Briggs
 

Thanks, Eric ... and good point Ken - guess it is a "Hot Water Heater" after all!
We don't have any solar, so the Hot Water Heater heats either from the engine coolant (which may also be a misnomer - "hotant?") or from the genset, which adds a nice electrical load to that.


Re: Zink Anode for SPURS Line Cutter

Olivier Beaute
 

Hello Rudi and Scott,

the reason for the zinc on the SPURS rope-cutter is that it is attached to the fixed blade which is in fact isolated from the prop shaft by a plastic U-shaped part (you will have a close look next time)  Therefore, this fixed blade is not correctly bonded to the rudder zincs, and it is important to keep its zinc in good condition.
The purpose of the plastic part is to reduce friction betwen the shaft and the fixed blade.

Have a nice day.

Olivier.


Re: Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Mohammad  

 

Thanks a lot for the information. That helps; - nevertheless it’s confusing that the sensor has 2 wires. Because you said they send a “single wire” non-isolated ground sensor. If I understood correctly, the single wire non-isolated ground sensor is wrong in these case?

 

So you can only get the right sensor in France by referencing the AMEL setup, right? If I find a sensor who has 2 wire terminals is supposing correct, but not 100%

 

Happy sailing

 

Ruedi and Sabina

WASABI A54#55


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Sonntag, 17. Mai 2020 um 03:08
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

Hi Ruedi;

 

In order for the sensor to be isolated ground, it needs to have 2 wires, since it cannot use the engine block as ground. If you use the serial number of the engine to order the part, a single wire non-isolated ground sensor will be sent. My understanding, in talking to Amel, is that Volvo ships the standard engine to Volvo France. Volvo France then does the required mods to Amel Specs, one of them being isolated ground. To my surprise, Volvo does not update this information in their data base to match the serial number.

 

Here's the contact information, provided by Amel, and part number that was correct for our engine:

GWEN MARINE Mr Gwenael Rambaud :   gwen@...

Part Number: 863169 Description: CAPTEUR PRESSION

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 10:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo oil pressure - single wire non-isolated switch

 

Hi Mohammad  


I try to understand the issue with the single wire non-isolated pressure switch. I'm interested to buy one of these pressure switches for spare but don’t exactly know how to order. I can find in Internet on official VolvoPenta.com, Marinepartseurope.com or other sites the pressure switch, but I’m not sure I will receive a single wire non-isolated pressure switch.

Can you ore someone from the group please enlighten me on this topic? 


Thanks and best regards

Ruedi 

WASABI A54#55


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Eric Meury
 

Craig before you do this read my post about how i make hot water from solar.  Not sure how much solar you have on your boat but this is working fine for me for the last 3 weeks.


Near constant hot water without a generator - Here is how i did it.

Eric Meury
 

We have an santorin with no generator but have 1000 Watts of solar.  400 of those watts are shaded -  200 is behind the main mast flexible panels and 200 is on the new hard top bimini (room for more)  The bulk of the power comes from 600 Watts on the arch. 

Here is what we did.  

1.  Added the Victron 712 Battery Monitor that is bluetooth and replaced the Amel Shunt 

2.  Changed out the AC heating element for a 600 Watt DC element (300 Watt can be used as well)

3.  Added a Victron Battery Protect -  this serves as the relay and what powers the heating element.  - ie the heating element positive cable is connected to the battery protect .
 (BPR065022000 Victron Energy BPR065022000 Smart BatteryProtect with Bluetooth 12/24V - 65A) -  $59 bucks from pkys

4.  Disconnected the thermostat wire from the heating element and attached it directly to the relay.

Here is how it works -  The BMV has a relay setting.  This is set to Default mode but i changed the settings to Invert.  The Low SOC is set to 90 and 96.  What this means is that the relay will be powered when the SOC is anything above 90%.  When it gets to 90% it will turn off and will not turn back on again until the SOC is 96% (these can be changed)  -  This send a signal to the battery protect to "turn on" thus sending power to the heating element.  The battery protect has a shutdown setting of 12.4 volts  (i can change that to really anything but this was set to be an absolule failsafe to never let the batteries go below 12.4).  It turns back on when the batteries are 12.75. I have never seen 12.4 from my bank.   The tempature sensor is set to what ever the factory setting is...i  imagine it is 105 degrees (torried marine water heater).  

So everyday and a couple of times a day depending on how much water is used, my heater will turn on automatically in the mid morning as by that time i have recovered from the nightly discharge and am now above 96%/.  The element will draw a full 600 Watts until such time that either thhe SOC is 90% OR the tempature sensor says - he we are good and have plenty of hot water.  The first time i rant it it took a good 1.5 to 2 hours to get to that tempature. but my batteries never eached 90% as i'm usually producting 400-500 Watts and only have 600 watt drain so max i see going out during the day is 200-250 watts -  (if you use a 300 Watt Element and have plenty of solar you won't go negative but will talke longer)  Since i have this it only needs to run for maybe 15 to 20 mins and occastionally longer to keep the water at the tempature set by the tempature sensor.  

We now take a hot shower everyday and my 2 year old plays in a warm baby pool almost everyday.  -  All of this is powered with solar. (and soon to be wind)   

If i'm on the hard (which i am right now) it still works just the same and If i plug in heat water just by using the battery charger.  

If you have a desire (or don't have one) to not have to run your genset to heat water daily then this is a good way to go provided you have enough solar to make it happen.  We have one fridge and one freezer and a 12 volt home built spectra watermaker.  All of the settings are controlled from my phone via the victron connect app.  I can completley turn off the water heater by accessign the battery protect  - there is a setting to disable.  

I do not have lithium batteries but my bank is large with 4 - L16 Flooded Wet Cell batteries with 840 Amp hours.  


Re: Hot Water Heater Power Consumption

Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
 

The Hot Water Heater also is a Cold Water Heater, and maybe just a Water Heater.  But after the Hot Water Heater heats up the Cold Water,  the Hot Water Heater keeps the Hot Water Hot.  Thus, the term "Hot Water Heater".  :). You see, most of the time, if left on, the unit will be heating Hot Water (this also implies that there is a Thermostat involved).  Only when first powered up will it heat Cold Water.  

Just another point of view......

Ken Powers
SM2K 262


Re: Whole Boat Permanent Inverter for 220VAC 50Hz

Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
 

Gary,

The conversion between DC to AC the loss, depending on your inverter, could be as much as 10% to 30%.   Also, if you only have 100amp battery charger, then you are only supplying 2.5KW into your batteries, but with your proposed 4KW inverter you could pull out 1.5KW above the potential charging input while charging your batteries (That is -62Amps).  I would consider that completely unacceptable!  Running your AC units would not be possible more that a few hours, they would just draw down your batteries and you might not be able to keep up the charge.  And another thing, your Genset should be run at full power, which would be at least 6.5 KW.  But giving your 4KW inverter you would only be able to pull 4KW from your Genset.

This might be a better way to go.

When we bought Aquarius she was set up as follows:
1500 watt inverter
Plugs throughout the boat - Supplied by either - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset
Washer - Shore Power or Inverter
Dishwasher - Shore Power or Inverter
3 Aircon - Shore Power or Inverter or Genset
Microwave - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset

Since then we have upgraded to a 2.5KW inverter, but we have made no changes to the distribution panel.... YET.  We are just about ready to get LiFePO4 batteries, and we may make the following changes.  

So, if I were you, this is what I would do:

2.5KW - 4KW Inverter (some electronics have large inrush current when starting, 4KW might help them start up without the use of expensive soft start options)

If Genset is running, or we are on Shore Power, the Inverter is turned off.

Plugs throughout the boat - Supplied by either - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset.
Washer -  You may want to make this Inverter only because the water pumps like 50HZ only. 
Dishwasher -  You may want to make this Inverter only because the water pumps like 50HZ only. 
3 Aircon - Shore Power or Inverter of Genset
Microwave - Inverter, Shore Power, or Genset

Your Washer or Dishwasher only runs for a short amount of time, and can be easily run off your Inverter only.  But supplying your entire boat off the inverter would not be the best way to go.

If you are somewhere that has bad shore power, don't connect your AMEL!

Ken Powers
Currently on Lock Down in Thailand
But today - We can get a foot massage!
SM2K #262