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Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
Dear Oliver,
thx.
That seems to be a good idea too.
Maybe I prefer this when I have to struggle with the freezer (locker) more then 2 or 3 hours.
This will be my work for the weekend :-).
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE / La Rochelle
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Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
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Hi Ruedi
I disconnected the hose from the galley panel, attached a strong mousing line and pulled it out through the engine bay and took both hoses to be copied. It was easy to pull the new hose through the same route.
I took Bill’s advice - per Mohammad’s counsel too - and didn’t run the watermaker whilst the hose joint was leaking.
Incidentally if you get the hoses made in Corfu and stay in Petriti, then there’s water (and electricity) available on the quay.
Best,
Tony
On 4 Jul 2019, at 14:23, Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Hi Tony
Thank you. I unscrewed and checked the space behind the Panel. How did you replaced? There is very little space behind to access, I can even not get a Hand in! Did you accessed from the Cockpit locker? There is only a small round opening as well. Maybe a have just to pull the hoses hard but I’m scarred to damage something there.
Best regards Ruedi
Hi Ruedi
I replaced my Dessalator hoses in Corfu recently. I got them made (next day service) with stainless steel fittings (not cheap at €270 for the pair but good quality) at a farm equipment suppliers near the old town port:
Corfu old town port was full of effluent when I was last there so my suggestion would be to anchor or berth (free) at Petriti, an attractive port/anchorage at the SE tip of Corfu. And then hire a car from Safe Car Hire, in the village.
Gouvia Marina is €87 a night or Mandraki Marina is in Corfu old town and very attractive, at €70 per night.
Hope to see you in July someplace!
Tony & Lel A54 Balthazar #102, Levkas, Greece
On 4 Jul 2019, at 06:45, Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Hi Mohammad Thank you for your valuable input. I just
have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some
water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped. The big question is: HOW LONG? Today after your comment I have checked
the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I
have exactly the same problem what you described. I will certainly order new hoses as well….
Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait
for parts down here. What is your estimation from experience
how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure? Best regards Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia
MMSI: 269322000 , Call Sign: HBY3811
Hi Barry;
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.
Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant.
I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the
hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist
from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room. Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo 323-633-2222 Cell 310-454-3148 Fax
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io < connor_barry@...> wrote: Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids. I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker. This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank. I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with. Would appreciate any advise.
Best
Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Ruedi,
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Bill Rouse On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Dear Amel Group Friends I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question: I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the
Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V
connection). - Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? - Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? - What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak? It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights? Best regards Ruedi P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
T In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is
usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection
the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak. Best,
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St. Galveston, Texas 77550 832-380-4970
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground
stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending
pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava
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Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
Gary Wells
I've had pretty good luck so far doing an alternating system of bleach and Star right purifier.
Since we travel.quite frequently and use the watermaker fairly regularly the water in the tank stays pretty clean and we'll agitatted.
.
I've chosen a plain household bleach and add about 16-20 ounces (500ml) when the tank is 3/4 filled then fill the rest of the way.
This solution is not strong enough to harm things but will prevent growth.
I do not back-flush the watermaker with this tank .. even if it means using the watermaker without a flush for a few days.
We try to use this tank quickly; laundry really helps :) .. when the tank is low, a freshwater refill is made and we can again flush the watermaker (as a side note, the Dow membranes have a stated ppm rejection/tolerance number started in the literature .. and while I don't remember it offhand, I do remember it being more than I expected.).
The next refill will have two teaspoons of the Starbright water purifier (diluted with 20 oz of warm water) added to the tank when about 3/4 full.
Then, we are set for a month or two of regular use and dock-water fills.
I will (perhaps brazenly) say that all growth need not be fretted about. If the water is regularly treated then the growth will gradually go away.
I do use a test kit available for hot tubs/pools to test ph and chlorine after treatments as well as a TDS meter ($16 on Amazon) to make sure nothing is getting out ofnhand. (some ockdwater has been extremely "hard" and tests badly so we try to avoid it .. calcium in the shower head and all that...)
So far, so good :).
Gary W.
SM 209 Adagio
Maryland, USA .. waiting on new sails :)
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Tony,
I agree with Mohammed. The hoses could break at anytime. The saltwater, a broken high pressure hose will spray throughout the engine room, will cost thousands of euro.
Bill Rouse
On Thu, Jul 4, 2019, 8:44 AM Mohammad Shirloo < mshirloo@...> wrote:
Hi Reudi;
I ordered 10 meters of hose (enough for two replacements on Kokomo) and 4 HP hose connectors needed to make the two hoses. The connectors come with a special tool needed to make up the connectors. The connectors are fairly easy to install. The replacement
had some tight areas to work around but nothing hard. I’ve had no issues since the installation and the new and existing HP connectors can be reused if not damaged.
I would personally not run the water maker without the replacement of the hoses, if you can visually see a leak. I do not think anyone can estimate how long they will work. They can just drip for days or months or they could fail the next time you run
the water maker and end up with extensive damage and cleanup in the engine room.
Respectfully;
Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
On Jul 4, 2019, at 7:45 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl < rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Mohammad
Thank you for your valuable input. I just have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and
it stopped.
The big question is: HOW LONG?
Today after your comment I have checked the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I have exactly the same problem what you described.
I will certainly order new hoses as well…. Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait for parts down here.
What is your estimation from experience how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure?
Best regards
Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl
"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia
MMSI: 269322000 , Call Sign: HBY3811
Hi Barry;
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.
Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant.
I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the
hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist
from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room.
Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io < connor_barry@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.
Best
Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote:
Ruedi,
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Bill Rouse
On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote:
Dear Amel Group Friends
I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:
I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the
Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on.
The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire.
BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V
connection).
- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor?
- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed?
- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?
It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?
Best regards
Ruedi
P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is
usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection
the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
Best,
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground
stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending
pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava
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Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
The SM & 54 have 2 partitions inside the freshwater tank and 3 inspection ports. The partitions do not go all the way to the bottom of the tank allowing water to flow throughout the entire tank.
The inspection ports in a SM or 54 are located: 1.) Under the forward facing galley door opening fridge. 2.) Under the galley floor. 3.) Under the forward facing salon table seat, under the fridge/freezer, which is likely under this seat. This fridge/freezer is very difficult to remove.
By far the easiest to gain access to is #2 above.
It is NOT necessary to remove the top opening fridge/freezer in a 54, or the clothes washer in a SM because there is no access port below these.
For all of the reasons above a chemical sterilization of the freshwater tank through port #2 above is my recommend choice.
I will note that your Amel Manual recommends chlorine for this purpose, however doesn't offer much detail. I suggest that you refer to the instructions I posted earlier regarding chlorine concentration, length of time, and tank rinsing. If you feel that your tank requires more chlorine, I suggest that you double the chlorine quantity I specified and add 1 more rinse.
Hope this helps. Best, CW Bill Rouse Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners www.YachtSchool.us720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Thu, Jul 4, 2019, 7:55 AM Mark & Debbie Mueller < brass.ring@...> wrote: We cleaned the water tank on our 54 shortly after purchase. We know Amel did not build all boats the same but I cannot believe they would make a significant change such as going from one to three tanks. To verify open the port you show in front of the galley refrigerator and get rough dimensions on the tank, convert to cubic feet, then to gallons - 1 cu ft equals 7.48 gallons. The tank extends forward and aft under the chest refrig/freezer & galley refrig. We have one tank on this boat. Removing the under seat freezer would be difficult (understatement).
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring A54
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Hi Reudi;
I ordered 10 meters of hose (enough for two replacements on Kokomo) and 4 HP hose connectors needed to make the two hoses. The connectors come with a special tool needed to make up the connectors. The connectors are fairly easy to install. The replacement
had some tight areas to work around but nothing hard. I’ve had no issues since the installation and the new and existing HP connectors can be reused if not damaged.
I would personally not run the water maker without the replacement of the hoses, if you can visually see a leak. I do not think anyone can estimate how long they will work. They can just drip for days or months or they could fail the next time you run
the water maker and end up with extensive damage and cleanup in the engine room.
Respectfully;
Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099
On Jul 4, 2019, at 7:45 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl < rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Mohammad
Thank you for your valuable input. I just have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and
it stopped.
The big question is: HOW LONG?
Today after your comment I have checked the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I have exactly the same problem what you described.
I will certainly order new hoses as well…. Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait for parts down here.
What is your estimation from experience how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure?
Best regards
Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl
"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia
MMSI: 269322000 , Call Sign: HBY3811
Hi Barry;
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.
Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant.
I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the
hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist
from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room.
Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io < connor_barry@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.
Best
Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote:
Ruedi,
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Bill Rouse
On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote:
Dear Amel Group Friends
I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:
I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the
Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on.
The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire.
BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V
connection).
- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor?
- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed?
- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?
It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?
Best regards
Ruedi
P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is
usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection
the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
Best,
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground
stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending
pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava
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|
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WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl
Hi Tony
Thank you. I unscrewed and checked the space behind the Panel. How did you replaced? There is very little space behind to access, I can even not get a Hand in! Did you accessed from the Cockpit locker? There is only a small round opening as well. Maybe a have just to pull the hoses hard but I’m scarred to damage something there.
Best regards Ruedi
Hi Ruedi
I replaced my Dessalator hoses in Corfu recently. I got them made (next day service) with stainless steel fittings (not cheap at €270 for the pair but good quality) at a farm equipment suppliers near the old town port:
Corfu old town port was full of effluent when I was last there so my suggestion would be to anchor or berth (free) at Petriti, an attractive port/anchorage at the SE tip of Corfu. And then hire a car from Safe Car Hire, in the village.
Gouvia Marina is €87 a night or Mandraki Marina is in Corfu old town and very attractive, at €70 per night.
Hope to see you in July someplace!
Tony & Lel A54 Balthazar #102, Levkas, Greece
On 4 Jul 2019, at 06:45, Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Hi Mohammad Thank you for your valuable input. I just
have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some
water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped. The big question is: HOW LONG? Today after your comment I have checked
the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I
have exactly the same problem what you described. I will certainly order new hoses as well….
Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait
for parts down here. What is your estimation from experience
how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure? Best regards Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia
MMSI: 269322000 , Call Sign: HBY3811
Hi Barry;
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.
Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant.
I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the
hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist
from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room. Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo 323-633-2222 Cell 310-454-3148 Fax
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io < connor_barry@...> wrote: Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids. I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker. This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank. I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with. Would appreciate any advise.
Best
Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Ruedi,
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Bill Rouse On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Dear Amel Group Friends I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question: I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the
Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V
connection). - Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? - Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? - What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak? It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights? Best regards Ruedi P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
T In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is
usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection
the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak. Best,
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St. Galveston, Texas 77550 832-380-4970
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground
stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending
pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava
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|
|
Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
We cleaned the water tank on our 54 shortly after purchase. We know Amel did not build all boats the same but I cannot believe they would make a significant change such as going from one to three tanks. To verify open the port you show in front of the galley refrigerator and get rough dimensions on the tank, convert to cubic feet, then to gallons - 1 cu ft equals 7.48 gallons. The tank extends forward and aft under the chest refrig/freezer & galley refrig. We have one tank on this boat. Removing the under seat freezer would be difficult (understatement).
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring A54
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Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA
Also if you get a chance to spend a few days in biscayne bay, its a really pretty place to hang out and sail, and plenty of good anchoring spots there. If you come into the bay take the stiltsville entry just south of key biscayne. You can also anchor at the old miami marine stadium and its an easy uber ride into Miami and away from the hustlenof downtown miami. We did the ICW from norfolk to Charleston and then went outside to Florida. We avoided Georgia due to the shallow depth being a concern.
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Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging
Good news. CorrosionX will help. Best, CW Bill Rouse Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners www.YachtSchool.us720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
Success this morning. Voltage sensing cable to regulator had a loose connection at the alternator. That connection was very difficult to get at ... So now voltage at regulator is about .3V HIGHER than at the voltmeter on the switchboard. That’s understandable since the switchboard measures the voltage after loads. I need to motor for a bit to get to the switchover from bulk to absorption- batteries are at 88% now. But I’m confident that I’ve solved the problem. Thanks much everyone for your help!
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Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello,
I got same setup.
Its mandatory to get bets matching the small pully belt disk size and that are possible to get tighten over the back. Some lawnmower belts do that. I got now some OPTIBELT SUPER XE-POWER PRO M=S XPB 1320
No experiance for now, need to relaunch in few days after this refit.
Oliver Vela Nautica 54#39 Portugal
On Thu, Jul 4, 2019, 10:20 ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington= aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have a 175A 24v alternator on my 54. With twin pulley v belts.
It is the set up with the alternator to port and separate from the 12v alternator and raw water pump belt. I know some 54’s are set up with the alternator to starboard and run off the same belt as the 12v and pump belt. Not my Amelia.
I am disappointed with the life I am getting from a matched pair, only about 100 hours. I tried to get the green stripe quality in the UK and was sold some blue belt.
The pulley grooves are for 15mm or maybe 16mm, so that they do not bottom out. That is, so the sides of the belt grip the pulley. Which is what I used.
I have now put a pair of belts that the previous owner bought which are 13mm, but a matched pair (so it is bottoming out) as an experiment, to see how they perform.
Does anyone with my twin belt set up, recommend any particular brand and size/specs?
It would be nice to find a brand that does not shed dust and that lasts for 300 hours or more!
Nick
Amelia Corfu area
AML 54-019
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Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
You need to flush carefully afterwards with lots of water....
On Thu, Jul 4, 2019, 10:39 Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica via Groups.Io <oliver.henrichsen= gmail.com@groups.io> wrote: Hello,
I got the same problem. I could imagine that dishwasher detergent might do a better job than chlorine. This dishwash detergent has chemicals that break down organic matter from the algees or bacteries living in these tanks. Sodium Metasilicate is used by vegie Restaurants to clean their dishwashers. I guess regular dishwash detergent will do the job too. Its a similar job like cleaning the watermaker membranes chemically.
OLIVER
VELA NAUTICA 54 #39 Faro /Portugal
On Wed, Jul 3, 2019, 17:08 Stefan Schaufert < mail@...> wrote: Dear Amel Group,
this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.
For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?
I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).
Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE
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Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello,
I got the same problem. I could imagine that dishwasher detergent might do a better job than chlorine. This dishwash detergent has chemicals that break down organic matter from the algees or bacteries living in these tanks. Sodium Metasilicate is used by vegie Restaurants to clean their dishwashers. I guess regular dishwash detergent will do the job too. Its a similar job like cleaning the watermaker membranes chemically.
OLIVER
VELA NAUTICA 54 #39 Faro /Portugal
On Wed, Jul 3, 2019, 17:08 Stefan Schaufert < mail@...> wrote: Dear Amel Group,
this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.
For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?
I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).
Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE
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Nick Newington
I have a 175A 24v alternator on my 54. With twin pulley v belts.
It is the set up with the alternator to port and separate from the 12v alternator and raw water pump belt. I know some 54’s are set up with the alternator to starboard and run off the same belt as the 12v and pump belt. Not my Amelia.
I am disappointed with the life I am getting from a matched pair, only about 100 hours. I tried to get the green stripe quality in the UK and was sold some blue belt.
The pulley grooves are for 15mm or maybe 16mm, so that they do not bottom out. That is, so the sides of the belt grip the pulley. Which is what I used.
I have now put a pair of belts that the previous owner bought which are 13mm, but a matched pair (so it is bottoming out) as an experiment, to see how they perform.
Does anyone with my twin belt set up, recommend any particular brand and size/specs?
It would be nice to find a brand that does not shed dust and that lasts for 300 hours or more!
Nick
Amelia Corfu area
AML 54-019
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WASABI - Rudolf Waldispuehl
Thank you Barry
You made both hoses new as I understood.
The inlet from the Pump (maybe 1-1,5m) , and the outlet to
the Controls Board in the Galey which was slightly more than 3
Meters, Right?
Do you have Nicholas contact details?
Best regards
Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55, Kyparissia, Peloponnese
MMSI: 269322000 Call Sign: HBY3811
Hi Ruedi, Should have checked that hose when we were together. Nicholas at Dessolator gave me the fitting needed to retighten these hoses. My hose covers peeled off last year. Nicholas actually made up the new hose for me when I stopped in Antibes last Dec on my way back to MDR. He used the new type hose which he said the cover would not disintegrate over time. Be very careful trying to tighten the one you have as it could just burst off which happened to me. It was very difficult to get it back on and it kept leaking slightly until I replaced it with the new one made by Nicholas. He made it 3 meters, you should get it slightly longer, was a stretch to get it to fit. As I said I am now dealing with 'Advance Yacht Systems" in the UK to get my Dessalator parts. have a look at their site. Alan is coming to the boat next week and is bringing my bits from them. They are shipping today for delivery to him tomorrow or Sat. If their is some way you can order some hose and I could get it to you with the special fitting! Or just get on to Nicholas and he will made you up a new hose.
Best regards
Barry and Penny "SV Lady Penelope II" Amel 54 #17 Syracusa, Sicily
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Thursday, July 4, 2019, 7:21:54 AM GMT+1, tony wells via Groups.Io < tony.wells@...> wrote:
Hi Ruedi
I replaced my Dessalator hoses in Corfu recently. I got them made (next day service) with stainless steel fittings (not cheap at €270 for the pair but good quality) at a farm equipment suppliers near the old town port:
Corfu old town port was full of effluent when I was last there so my suggestion would be to anchor or berth (free) at Petriti, an attractive port/anchorage at the SE tip of Corfu. And then hire a car from Safe Car Hire, in the village.
Gouvia Marina is €87 a night or Mandraki Marina is in Corfu old town and very attractive, at €70 per night.
Hope to see you in July someplace!
Tony & Lel A54 Balthazar #102, Levkas, Greece
On 4 Jul 2019, at 06:45, Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Mohammad Thank you for your valuable input. I just
have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some
water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped. The big question is: HOW LONG? Today after your comment I have checked
the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I
have exactly the same problem what you described. I will certainly order new hoses as well….
Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait
for parts down here. What is your estimation from experience
how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure? Best regards Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia
MMSI: 269322000 , Call Sign: HBY3811
Hi Barry;
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.
Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant.
I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the
hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist
from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room. Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo 323-633-2222 Cell 310-454-3148 Fax
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io < connor_barry@...> wrote: Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids. I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker. This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank. I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with. Would appreciate any advise.
Best
Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Ruedi,
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Bill Rouse On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Dear Amel Group Friends I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question: I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the
Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V
connection). - Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? - Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? - What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak? It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights? Best regards Ruedi P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
T In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is
usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection
the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak. Best,
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St. Galveston, Texas 77550 832-380-4970
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground
stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending
pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava
|
|
|
Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
Thanks to all of you.
The chemical mace is usually not my favorit.
So I will try to dismantle the kitchen locker with the freezer completely.
If this is successful and discovers some secrets I will tell you.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / Lady Charlyette
|
|
|
Barry Connor
Hi Ruedi, Should have checked that hose when we were together. Nicholas at Dessolator gave me the fitting needed to retighten these hoses. My hose covers peeled off last year. Nicholas actually made up the new hose for me when I stopped in Antibes last Dec on my way back to MDR. He used the new type hose which he said the cover would not disintegrate over time. Be very careful trying to tighten the one you have as it could just burst off which happened to me. It was very difficult to get it back on and it kept leaking slightly until I replaced it with the new one made by Nicholas. He made it 3 meters, you should get it slightly longer, was a stretch to get it to fit. As I said I am now dealing with 'Advance Yacht Systems" in the UK to get my Dessalator parts. have a look at their site. Alan is coming to the boat next week and is bringing my bits from them. They are shipping today for delivery to him tomorrow or Sat. If their is some way you can order some hose and I could get it to you with the special fitting! Or just get on to Nicholas and he will made you up a new hose.
Best regards
Barry and Penny "SV Lady Penelope II" Amel 54 #17 Syracusa, Sicily
On Thursday, July 4, 2019, 7:21:54 AM GMT+1, tony wells via Groups.Io <tony.wells@...> wrote:
Hi Ruedi
I replaced my Dessalator hoses in Corfu recently. I got them made (next day service) with stainless steel fittings (not cheap at €270 for the pair but good quality) at a farm equipment suppliers near the old town port:
Corfu old town port was full of effluent when I was last there so my suggestion would be to anchor or berth (free) at Petriti, an attractive port/anchorage at the SE tip of Corfu. And then hire a car from Safe Car Hire, in the village.
Gouvia Marina is €87 a night or Mandraki Marina is in Corfu old town and very attractive, at €70 per night.
Hope to see you in July someplace!
Tony & Lel A54 Balthazar #102, Levkas, Greece
On 4 Jul 2019, at 06:45, Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Mohammad Thank you for your valuable input. I just
have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some
water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped. The big question is: HOW LONG? Today after your comment I have checked
the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I
have exactly the same problem what you described. I will certainly order new hoses as well….
Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait
for parts down here. What is your estimation from experience
how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure? Best regards Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia
MMSI: 269322000 , Call Sign: HBY3811
Hi Barry;
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.
Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant.
I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the
hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist
from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room. Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo 323-633-2222 Cell 310-454-3148 Fax
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io < connor_barry@...> wrote: Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids. I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker. This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank. I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with. Would appreciate any advise.
Best
Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Ruedi,
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Bill Rouse On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Dear Amel Group Friends I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question: I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the
Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V
connection). - Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? - Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? - What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak? It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights? Best regards Ruedi P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
T In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is
usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection
the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak. Best,
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St. Galveston, Texas 77550 832-380-4970
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground
stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending
pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava
|
|
|
Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging
Joerg Esdorn
Success this morning. Voltage sensing cable to regulator had a loose connection at the alternator. That connection was very difficult to get at ... So now voltage at regulator is about .3V HIGHER than at the voltmeter on the switchboard. That’s understandable since the switchboard measures the voltage after loads. I need to motor for a bit to get to the switchover from bulk to absorption- batteries are at 88% now. But I’m confident that I’ve solved the problem. Thanks much everyone for your help!
|
|
|
Hi Ruedi
I replaced my Dessalator hoses in Corfu recently. I got them made (next day service) with stainless steel fittings (not cheap at €270 for the pair but good quality) at a farm equipment suppliers near the old town port:
Corfu old town port was full of effluent when I was last there so my suggestion would be to anchor or berth (free) at Petriti, an attractive port/anchorage at the SE tip of Corfu. And then hire a car from Safe Car Hire, in the village.
Gouvia Marina is €87 a night or Mandraki Marina is in Corfu old town and very attractive, at €70 per night.
Hope to see you in July someplace!
Tony & Lel A54 Balthazar #102, Levkas, Greece
On 4 Jul 2019, at 06:45, Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Hi Mohammad Thank you for your valuable input. I just
have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some
water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped. The big question is: HOW LONG? Today after your comment I have checked
the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I
have exactly the same problem what you described. I will certainly order new hoses as well….
Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait
for parts down here. What is your estimation from experience
how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure? Best regards Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl "SY WASABI" Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia
MMSI: 269322000 , Call Sign: HBY3811
Hi Barry;
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.
Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant.
I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the
hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist
from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room. Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo 323-633-2222 Cell 310-454-3148 Fax
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io < connor_barry@...> wrote: Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids. I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker. This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank. I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with. Would appreciate any advise.
Best
Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse < brouse@...> wrote: Ruedi,
In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches.
If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing.
Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."
I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Bill Rouse On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl < Rudolf@...> wrote: Dear Amel Group Friends I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question: I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the
Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. BTW: I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V
connection). - Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? - Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? - What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak? It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights? Best regards Ruedi P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?
T In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is
usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection
the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak. Best,
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St. Galveston, Texas 77550 832-380-4970
[Edited Message Follows]
I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground
stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.
It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim. Then I could continue to use the offending
pump until it dies a natural death.
Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?
Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava
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