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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: rig tuning

scentstone
 

Thank you Bill
After some search, here it on this forum https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/26665
Kind regards
Fred
S/V ScentStone
SM2K #375
La Rochelle, France 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

rossirossix4
 

Removing the stubborn windlass bolt--
Just spotted these photos of this process and I am posting this  for those who may search for solutions on windlass bolt removal in the future.  Although I spent 4 days using the dam technique-- building a small dam round the bolt and filling it with various penetrating fluids--it did not work for me.  My suspicion was that the corrosion around the bolt head and sealants at the bass of the windlass blocked the penetrating fluid.

Next I gently tapped a thin putty knife between the deck and the windlass until it was stopped by the bolt.  This cleared a channel to the bolt.  I then sprayed penetrating fluid (I used CorrosionX) and was surprised to see that it was taking fluid.  Sure enough, after a couple of hours I was able to back the bold back out.  These photos show both methods-- https://photos.app.goo.gl/C942E76KpfauET8a8 

Bob KAIMI SM429
Re: New VHF antenna = newly discovered electrical leak!

Sv Garulfo
 


Hi Scott,

Thanks Scott for your answers for the VHF. A friend tipped us to use uncut cable ties every foot or so, at say, 120° angle from each others as chaff guards along the mast. Would that be useful/possible in our case?


For the leak, try the bow thruster, ours was located there because of carbon dust. Also try the navigation lights, we had a small leak there too. 

Undo the cables one by one until it disappears, but the following can be confusing: 
If you have 2 locations for leaks, you can think an equipment is ok because you unplugged it and the leak is still there. So in theory, you should unplug everything and test each equipment one by one by replugging just that component. It’s a lot more work and best done starting from the battery bank to isolate the part of the boat the leak is from. But even that can be confusing because the leak from the bow thruster can be seen in the console section through the command part of the system (the joystick activating the relay). Ask me how I know. 

What may help you:
I wired a leak detector that i could use where I was working rather than shout at Soraya for testing with the amel built in tester. It’s a simple  LED bulb and 2 long wires. I connect one side to the positive (for testing a neg leak) nearby (but live) and the other to the bonding system, for instance the rigging, the guard rail etc. If there is a leak (ie the neg is connected to the bonding system somewhere), the bulb lights. And even better, the quantity of light shows the intensity of the leak. That’s useful for sorting big leaks (for us the truster) from small ones (for us, the navigation lights). 

Hope that helps, good luck. 



On Sat, 30 Nov 2019 at 08:51, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Thomas, 
 
Sorry for the slow reply. Infinite resistance just means the core and shield are not shorted out. The original antenna does not have a removable connector on the antenna side. I had to cut the coax wire at the antenna. I believe water must have gotten inside either the antenna or coax as the shield showed some signs of corrosion. 
 
I then taped the new coax (RG-8X) to the old coax and had someone pull it down from the starboard side base of the mast. Quite easy but there is a somewhat sharp bend at the bottom - be careful not to damage the coax or bend it too sharply. I believe RG-8X requires a 10cm bend radius. Then it's easy to run it into the boat using the access panel above the door between the saloon and the bunk bed area. There is a mousing line inside the mast, but I didn't use this. The reason is that I didn't want to pull raw coax up and then have to do the termination soldering "in the air" at the top of the mast. By using the old coax to pull the new coax down, you can do the antenna side termination "on the ground" and pull raw unterminated coax down through the mast and terminate it "on the ground" once you determine the right length.
 
I didn't want to leave anything to chance, so I ran new coax all the way to the VHF. That part was a bit more difficult but luckily the coax is not zip tied to the wire bundles on the starboard side. A little pushing and pulling and we got new wire all the way to the VHF. 
 
I got raw coax so you will need to terminate them yourself and weather seal the termination at the antenna side. I watched some youtube videos - not difficult at all. Get the quality soldered terminals, this is not a place to be cheap.
 
There is a coupler inside the access panel above the door that allows you to disconnect the coax in case you ever need to remove the mast. I did not install this because I believe each additional termination is an opportunity to screw up. If, in the future, I need to remove the mast, I can then add those additional terminations and use the coupling.
 
I got about 42 meters of RG-8X coax. I have lots left over after the VHF antenna install, but I plan to replace the mizzen AIS antenna and coax at some point.
 
On the mass-neg leak into the rigging, I've measured it to be about 150mA. I disconnected everything in the main and mizzen and it still exists. I am certain it's something in the bow locker. Sadly, I disconnected both windlasses, both genoa/staysail Bamar boxtron units and the leak seems to still be there. I fear it may be a chafed wire somewhere in the bow locker. Not looking forward to finding it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for the reply Oliver,

Very helpful information.  The Wakespeed 500 regulator has a dip switch setting that limits the alternator to 75% or 130 Amps (or further with programing). It will further limit output if the temperature goes up to high.  And I have a switch that can also set it directly to float charge level (current flow neutral).

I do have the wiring diagram you referenced as well as one from this forum with some specific notes on where wires connect.  But your comments on the how you modiifed the existing regulator cap for the wiring are very helpful.

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387






On Sat, Nov 30, 2019, 1:08 PM Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@... wrote:
Helli Dan,

Yes i got the 175A Alternator with double pully belt setup. 

At this time I limited the current to max 90 A. I could do more but I dont need to. I installed a 14.4 kWh Lithium batterie and most times when cruising I arrive with 90% charged batterie. The good side is also there is no more worn belts because the permanent load is lower now.

Do you have the Leece Neville document TSB-1139_8SC_WIRING_DIAGRAM?

Thats what I used to identify the connections. If you need to access the fiel contacts you may get the replacement back cap or just drill a wider hole through the original and use a hear resistant silicone wire and heat resistent gasket maker Silikone to access the field contact.

To access the stator I disconnected the original regulator and used the upper slot to pass the wires. I set the old regulator back as cap, disconnected. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 13:18 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Thanks for the information Oliver.

Do you have the Leece Neville 175A alternator on your boat?  If so the one picture that would be helpful is the actual wiring of the regulator behind the cap and the new connections into it.   And also if you have the LN175, it would be helpful to know the max current that you draw from it? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387, Shelter Bay, Panama



On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 3:13 AM Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@... wrote:
Hello Dan,

I used the VSR sailors project regulator from Al Thomason. 
I am very satisfied with it. 
Since then I dont have wear off pullys and the regulator offers all parameters to customize beside all standard charge programs. 

I dont know if my wiring or fotos will help you? 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 13:43 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator.  I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating. 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem.
Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000.
This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm.
The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. 
We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM,  firefly or lithium batteries,  so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely.
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: New VHF antenna = newly discovered electrical leak!

Scott SV Tengah
 

Thomas, 
 
Sorry for the slow reply. Infinite resistance just means the core and shield are not shorted out. The original antenna does not have a removable connector on the antenna side. I had to cut the coax wire at the antenna. I believe water must have gotten inside either the antenna or coax as the shield showed some signs of corrosion. 
 
I then taped the new coax (RG-8X) to the old coax and had someone pull it down from the starboard side base of the mast. Quite easy but there is a somewhat sharp bend at the bottom - be careful not to damage the coax or bend it too sharply. I believe RG-8X requires a 10cm bend radius. Then it's easy to run it into the boat using the access panel above the door between the saloon and the bunk bed area. There is a mousing line inside the mast, but I didn't use this. The reason is that I didn't want to pull raw coax up and then have to do the termination soldering "in the air" at the top of the mast. By using the old coax to pull the new coax down, you can do the antenna side termination "on the ground" and pull raw unterminated coax down through the mast and terminate it "on the ground" once you determine the right length.
 
I didn't want to leave anything to chance, so I ran new coax all the way to the VHF. That part was a bit more difficult but luckily the coax is not zip tied to the wire bundles on the starboard side. A little pushing and pulling and we got new wire all the way to the VHF. 
 
I got raw coax so you will need to terminate them yourself and weather seal the termination at the antenna side. I watched some youtube videos - not difficult at all. Get the quality soldered terminals, this is not a place to be cheap.
 
There is a coupler inside the access panel above the door that allows you to disconnect the coax in case you ever need to remove the mast. I did not install this because I believe each additional termination is an opportunity to screw up. If, in the future, I need to remove the mast, I can then add those additional terminations and use the coupling.
 
I got about 42 meters of RG-8X coax. I have lots left over after the VHF antenna install, but I plan to replace the mizzen AIS antenna and coax at some point.
 
On the mass-neg leak into the rigging, I've measured it to be about 150mA. I disconnected everything in the main and mizzen and it still exists. I am certain it's something in the bow locker. Sadly, I disconnected both windlasses, both genoa/staysail Bamar boxtron units and the leak seems to still be there. I fear it may be a chafed wire somewhere in the bow locker. Not looking forward to finding it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Helli Dan,

Yes i got the 175A Alternator with double pully belt setup. 

At this time I limited the current to max 90 A. I could do more but I dont need to. I installed a 14.4 kWh Lithium batterie and most times when cruising I arrive with 90% charged batterie. The good side is also there is no more worn belts because the permanent load is lower now.

Do you have the Leece Neville document TSB-1139_8SC_WIRING_DIAGRAM?

Thats what I used to identify the connections. If you need to access the fiel contacts you may get the replacement back cap or just drill a wider hole through the original and use a hear resistant silicone wire and heat resistent gasket maker Silikone to access the field contact.

To access the stator I disconnected the original regulator and used the upper slot to pass the wires. I set the old regulator back as cap, disconnected. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 13:18 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Thanks for the information Oliver.

Do you have the Leece Neville 175A alternator on your boat?  If so the one picture that would be helpful is the actual wiring of the regulator behind the cap and the new connections into it.   And also if you have the LN175, it would be helpful to know the max current that you draw from it? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387, Shelter Bay, Panama



On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 3:13 AM Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@... wrote:
Hello Dan,

I used the VSR sailors project regulator from Al Thomason. 
I am very satisfied with it. 
Since then I dont have wear off pullys and the regulator offers all parameters to customize beside all standard charge programs. 

I dont know if my wiring or fotos will help you? 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 13:43 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator.  I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating. 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem.
Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000.
This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm.
The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. 
We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM,  firefly or lithium batteries,  so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely.
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: Companion way for removal

Craig Briggs
 

Duane,
There is frosted plexiglass available that could be a good choice for you rather than sanding. Good idea for minimizing scratching from the wiper, if you choose to use it - I just took the wiper out.
I had a millwork make a new top rail, but you could reuse the old - you may need a router to clean out the door groove. We used a double thickness of plexi across the top few inches to mount the lock, top rail and locking bolts.
Cheers, Craig
Re: Greasing stegring cables

eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

The photo of the damaged rack was one from Kimberlite.

When I took the racks apart they were loaded with grease. I do not believe the damage was caused by a lack of grease.

I believe it was just wear and tear on the racks.  Fortunately I had a spare set on board . The rotary drive presents a sort of jerky motion to the steering assembly. While the linear drive is much smoother. I believe that is the reason for the failure. When I was in Martinique I had Amel check the steering and they said it was fine. The problem presented itself with a small thunk sound at one position of the wheel. It was only when the rotary pilot was working.

This is the second time I have replaced the racks.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2019 3:26 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

 

Pat,

 

Steve would know better than any of us.


--

Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. 

 

 

On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 10:20 AM Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:

Hi Pat,

 

I would suggest you do not attempt to add a grease fitting to the Racks. The steel racks take up almost all the room inside the black housing they are fitted into, and I’m not sure you can find a place to put the nipple.  Even if you could, the grease is not going to circulate adequately around the racks. When I took my racks apart, they were still packed full of grease after 27 years. If you are losing a lot of grease from your racks, something is probably not right, and you should take them apart. If you are just losing very small amounts of grease, don’t worry, the racks are very full of grease. 

 

Just my two cents worth, but having replaced my entire steering system (racks, pinion, and cables), I have a fairly good understanding of how it works. 

 

Regards,

 

Steve Davis

Aloha SM72

Ko  Olina, Hawaii



On Nov 24, 2019, at 4:07 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:



Bill , I may go ahead and try to add a nipple,if as you said the wall is too thin to tap , I will seal it by other means. I will in the future tie the wheel off center to spread the wear as per another owners suggestion a week or so back,a good idea. If the rack is steel, do you think it possible to replace the worn metal through welding in new material and then fashioning new teeth by filing.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 4:19 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

Pat,

 

I haven't considered that. I assume that you are referring to the racks...the steering cable is sealed.

 

I assume that the "leaking grease" is coming from the rack housing at one end or the other. If I recall these ends are not perfectly sealed. And as the toothed rack moves back and forth, it could push excess grease toward the ends of the rack housing.

 

Keep in mind that it is the steel toothed racks inside each rack housing that will fail with excess wear and that excess wear will be very close to the center of each rack. I believe this is wear caused by the autopilot "back and forth motion." It may also be caused by securing the helm in a center position while anchored.

 

Amel SAV said that they are going to be sourcing these steel toothed racks and have them available, even though the original manufacturer, Ultraflex, has stopped producing them. See the worn rack below:

<image.png>

 

 

One rack has teeth pointed upward, the other rack teeth are pointed downward. Tooth orientation, along with primarily 

center wear, should be considered when adding grease/fitting.

<image.png>

 

Translation:Corrugated Washer ---- Teflon half-rings

 

<image.png>

 

 

Possibly, the cover shown below can be drilled to inject grease. If so, this would be a fairly easy modification that could possibly add years of service to the racks. 

I am worried that the metal is to thin to take a thread tap. If that is true, possibly it could be drilled, grease injected and a rubber plug inserted. I know there are a few owners who can answer this question. We may need a volunteer to study this further.

<image.png>

 

 


--

Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. 

 

 

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill, For some years now I have had a minor leak of grease from the rack&pinion . What do you think about adding a nipple to put a little grease back into the unit .

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Nov 23, 2019 9:52 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Greasing stegring cables

The cables are sealed.

 

The racks and pinion have to be disassembled to add grease. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 7:32 AM Arthur Sundqvist <arthur@...> wrote:

How and where do I Grease the Steering Cables?
arthur sundqvist
sm435. Vista
Fair winds.....

<image.png>

<image.png>

<image.png>

<image.png>
Re: Companion way for removal

Duane Siegfri
 

We are also looking at ways to renew the companionway, and the plexiglass idea is one we like.

I am no expert, but I have read that glued joints in plexiglass are nearly invisible.  My thought was to remove the existing companionway by cutting horizontally, reuse the top rail, lock and hardware, and make the rest from plexiglass matching the thickness.  Have the fabrication shop put a half-lap scarf joint (as low as possible) to field glue in place so that one does not have to remove dodger.

I had to look up the "half-lap scarf joint" terminology (google it, since I can't draw the shape here) so forgive me if that's not accurate.  This is a joint that looks like a step on each piece, they fit together and give a lot more area for the glue to adhere.  

I am considering sanding the exterior surface with 1000 grit sandpaper to make it opaque, and to render further scratching from the bottom rubber seal not an issue.

Any thoughts from plexiglass experts out there?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477
Re: Tips for the passage from Chesapeake to St. Maarten?

Duane Siegfri
 

Alan Grayson:

Gaetun told me your boat was coming into Caribe Greement on Monday.  Please email me at:  carlylelk "at" aol "dot" com and maybe we can get together this weekend.  Peg and I are staying at the riggers dock until Monday morning.

Duane Siegfried
Wanderer, SM#477
Re: Bowthruster works only one way

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

I am assuming that the bow thruster extends and retracts OK.  We had a similar problem that turned out to be the solenoid pack mounted on the side of the bow thruster motor.  It had corroded and would operate in only on direction.  I have attached the trouble shooting guide from Side Power.  Some have rebuilt the solenoid(s) - I was not able to and replaced the solenoid pack.
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

PDF
Side Power Troubleshooting Guide with IPC.pdf

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for the information Oliver.

Do you have the Leece Neville 175A alternator on your boat?  If so the one picture that would be helpful is the actual wiring of the regulator behind the cap and the new connections into it.   And also if you have the LN175, it would be helpful to know the max current that you draw from it? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387, Shelter Bay, Panama



On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 3:13 AM Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica <oliver.henrichsen@... wrote:
Hello Dan,

I used the VSR sailors project regulator from Al Thomason. 
I am very satisfied with it. 
Since then I dont have wear off pullys and the regulator offers all parameters to customize beside all standard charge programs. 

I dont know if my wiring or fotos will help you? 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 13:43 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator.  I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating. 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem.
Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000.
This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm.
The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. 
We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM,  firefly or lithium batteries,  so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely.
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: Lithium Ion Battery teardowns

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello,

In this teardown the usual problem with "drop in" batteries is exposed. 
Every drop in has its own BMS and with that a questionable max current capacity and a chance of long term disbalance if you hook several in a bank. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Mon, Nov 25, 2019, 22:31 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I found 2 YouTube videos on Lithium Ion batteries that I really like. The batteries were disassembled by Will Prowse:  https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html.

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


Re: Question

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hi Bill,

I will check my foto lib. 

Maybe I got some fotos when I revised my motor. 

The main problem was that the shaft was baked into the furler and I needed to take the boom off and press the shaft out by hydraulic press. 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 00:15 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I am updating my Amel Book and need more photos of the mainsail 54/55 outhaul motor and gearbox...possibly some disassembled photos. The one below is the only one that I have at this time.
image.png

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hello Dan,

I used the VSR sailors project regulator from Al Thomason. 
I am very satisfied with it. 
Since then I dont have wear off pullys and the regulator offers all parameters to customize beside all standard charge programs. 

I dont know if my wiring or fotos will help you? 

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel54 #39 
Gran Canaria SPAIN 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 13:43 Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
Does anyone know what the safe continuous output for the LN175 would be? Or any information on the out put curve specific to this alternator.  I don't recall seeing it. Just the 175 amp rating. 

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:18 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote:
Yes Bob,
Traditional alternators can be a problem.
Remember though that on our boats there is a 1:2 ratio between engine rpm and alternator rpm so when the engine is doing 1000rpm the alternator is doing 2000.
This is where alternators like Delstar and Idlepro Extreme come into their own. These are 220/250amp alternators that can deliver 80-90% of rated output @ 2000 alternator rpm.
The standard LN175 can't do that and if you increase the rpm to produce more amps it will only do it for a while before everything turns to custard. 
We have big battery banks that can have very high charge acceptance rates with AGM,  firefly or lithium batteries,  so you need to think about these things very carefully in designing and operating a system that will achieve what you want safely.
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437 

Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Matt Salatino
 

We had CopperCoat on our previous boat. It is now going on 6 years. It’s been sanded ONCE, before we splashed it for the first time.
It’s never been pressure washed.
We followed the application instructions, to the letter, and it’s been good for us.
We’ve heard some horror stories about it, and in every case, it was improperly applied.
Big ships don’t need to use it as they can use TriButyl Tin based paint. Highly toxic to sea life and people, long lasting, and illegal to use on recreational boats in most countries. I believe it’s still available in Trinidad.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Nov 28, 2019, at 11:43 AM, Arnold Mente via Groups.Io <Arnold.mente@...> wrote:

Hi Paul,
be informed, Coppercoat needs a regular service with cleaning with pressure wash and sanding so the copper comes get activated and comes to the surface!
I am not opportune against Coppercoat, but why the commercial ships don't use it? For 3 years in water you can use a GOOD antifouling and paint it again. But according the AMEL service plan it is a 2 years  rhythm to haul out. A friend of mine, also a SM got problems after 5 years and he let the job do again. He is one money takes no matter! He is happy so far there is someone who do the Job! The cutless bearing (think you mean the C-Drive bearing) needs a replacement all 2 years or 800 h.

Arnold
SY Zephyr
SM203


Am 28.11.2019 um 16:51 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

Hi all,
 
How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.
 
Cheers,
Paul
S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
 

-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98



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SY Zephyr SM203

Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Arno Luijten
 

Preventative Maintenance is key to happy boatlife. Waiting until the propshaft seal starts leaking is a guarantee it will happen at the least practical point in time. Doing it earlier means  you can determine the place and time. Same applies to the stuffing box for the rudder shaft. If you see the nut is almost fully tightened into the box, replace the stuffing material and the nut. Do not forget to use PFTE tape on the thread of the nut.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem

Symphony
 

Mark - I have laughed for two hours over "The Devil's Glue" - excellent.  I've never fought 5200 but I have read enough sad stories.  
I agree that 4200 is strong enough as I have used it in a few difficult spots, such as holding a sink up to the underside of a countertop, and it is amazing.

I am in the process of rebedding the 14 year old windshields on my boat.  The manufacturer suggested I use SIKAFLEX 290DC which was their OEM spec.  The bedding has lasted well, even with a few years in Florida sun, and only weeps when hit with direct splash or driving rain.

Happy holidays to all - we're close to the solstice up here in the north and over the hump towards another boating season.

Richard
Vicem 58 "Songbird"
New Haven, CT
Re: Mizzen furler

Randall SV ALBEDO
 

Pat,
Not so easy! The part with the gear tooth that that broke only broke when it was being unscrewed. The white Delrin bushing had adhered to the shaft (like it was glued with super glue) if you look at the picture you will see the corrosion. I only unscrewed the bottom because there was grinding sound coming from the ball bearings. Turned out to be a build up of corrosion and salt. in order to undo the bottom I drilled a bar with holes the size of the 2 on the bottom of the furler and inserted 2 old drill bits to make 2 tooth tool.
I know it sounds complicated, but wasn't and I can now unfurl the mizzen with just pulling the sheet by hand.
In the end the stiff squeaky furler was only failing due to the bushings and after the complete disassemble I learned silicone lube is not what is needed.  Clean the bushings period.

Randall
AMEL 54 #56

On Thu, Nov 28, 2019 at 3:00 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Randall, It looks as though the tooth broke nearly completely off ,its hard to understand when enough force would ever be applied on the gear to break it off. Sounds like things came apart for you easier than for others ,probably due to your boat being newer than the SMs. I think I may try to disassemble mine just to clean it up, if I can without resorting to extreme measures. 
Good luck finding the part,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Nov 28, 2019 8:17 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Pat I took the mizzen furler off yesterday It was an easy task I took it to complete disassembly stage. Bill sent me the info on the disassembly leave the sail on undo the bolt holding it to the sail foil lift the foil with the sail halyard up 2 inches undo the 2 bolts on the outside of the mast and slide the unit out then you need to disassemble the unit.
I first removed the allen bolt from inside the crank and then attempted to unscrew the part that holds the Delrin/Teflon bushings clean then reassemble. I took it one step further and unscrewed the bottom part of the furler and cleaned the bearings and reassembled. You will see the gear on mine is damaged from corrosion ( I will source a replacement gear) 

Randall A54#56

On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 2:40 PM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Danny, I wish we had not already drained our water system, the marina has as well, its starting to get cold here.I think I will take the gearbox apart and take home ,clean & grease. I may pull the masts to put the boat in a shed for repairs and to be repainted this winter . I am not really sure I want to be " gob smacked " ,sounds painful , but being married I am use to abuse, and if the mizzen furls easier that it might be worth it .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans



-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 8:17 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler

Hi Pat,
Almost certain to be salt build up. The carribean salt is brutal. Rinse all moving parts with floods of fresh water. Over the top of the gearbox,up the input shaft, the swivel or spinner as I call it at the top of the sail. (Lower it first). all blocks, cars, turning blocks. Allow to dry and liberally apply silicone spray. You will be gob smacked at the result. To unfurl my mizzen since I did this I just pull the out haul by hand and brrrrrrt out it goes. I know its too simple and I expect some cynicism, but give it a try. 
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 27 November 2019 at 08:34 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

When we unfurled the mizzen sail to store it for the winter the sail came out but then became difficult to turn. The furler will only turn about a quarter of the way either direction. Its not the swivel where the sail's head attaches . I have never had an issue with the furler until now. I suppose it could be the furler's gear box , but my question is. Is there a bearing at the top of the mast that may be causing the binding ? I need to decide to pull or not ,both of the masts by next Monday and put the boat in a shed to repaint ,or leave the mast up and have it painted outside. I was leaning towards leaving the masts up until this problem,if its a bearing at the top of the mast it would be easier to deal with on the ground.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Re: Question about Cutlass bearing change

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Arnold,

 

Thanks for that. I think I have all I need.

 

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arnold Mente via Groups.Io
Sent: 28 November 2019 13:15
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Question about Cutlass bearing change

 

Hi Paul,

 

in the attachment you can find the official paper for maintenance for SM, to be the same for 54 is to clarify. Ask Maude of SAV Amel La Rochel.

 she will send you also the seals-

 

BR

 

Arnold

 

Am 28.11.2019 um 18:05 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Arnold,

 

Thanks for your good advice and for answering my question. But I must admit it does leave me asking why after not changing it for 6 years I have not experienced any problem at all. I tend to subscribe to the “if it ain’t bust don’t fix it” maxim … usually, but not always!

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Arnold Mente via Groups.Io
Sent: 28 November 2019 12:43
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Question about Cutlass bearing change

 

Hi Paul,

be informed, Coppercoat needs a regular service with cleaning with pressure wash and sanding so the copper comes get activated and comes to the surface!

I am not opportune against Coppercoat, but why the commercial ships don't use it? For 3 years in water you can use a GOOD antifouling and paint it again. But according the AMEL service plan it is a 2 years  rhythm to haul out. A friend of mine, also a SM got problems after 5 years and he let the job do again. He is one money takes no matter! He is happy so far there is someone who do the Job! The cutless bearing (think you mean the C-Drive bearing) needs a replacement all 2 years or 800 h.

 

Arnold

SY Zephyr

SM203

 

 

Am 28.11.2019 um 16:51 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Hi all,

 

How often is it recommended that the Amel 54 cutlass bearing be changed? Mine was last changed 6 years ago and I have not seen any sign of water ingress in the oil since, not experienced any problems. Reason I ask is that I will soon be having a coppercoat put on after which I hope to avoid hauling out for an extended period. Perhaps I should also replace the rudder post stuffing at the same time seeing as the plastic collar is now extremely tight to prevent leakage.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


-- 
SY Zephyr SM203 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


--
SY Zephyr SM203


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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