Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install
rossirossix4
Dan and Alan-
Fascinating stuff (as I think ahead to a lithium conversion). This video does a good job of discussing and demonstrating what you are writing about AND talks about problems with low RPM/high charging situations. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgoIocPgOug Bob, KAIMI SM429 Trying to save up money for them thar newfangled Lithiums |
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Re: Question
I don’t have much Bilk and we’re away from the boat.
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Let me know what you get. We’ll be back in 10-12 days. Thanks Porter Excuse the errors. Sent from my IPhone Www.fouribis.com On Nov 28, 2019, at 1:15 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Question
I am updating my Amel Book and need more photos of the mainsail 54/55 outhaul motor and gearbox...possibly some disassembled photos. The one below is the only one that I have at this time. --
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Re: Santorin Furling/Outhaul Solenoid Wiring Question
Eric Meury
Thanks oliver.
This has been an issue for me. Do you know a replacement Solenoid for these. I have a 12 Volt Santorin. |
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Re: Mizzen furler
Patrick McAneny
Mark, That was very informative ,the files contain a wealth of info ,especially Gary's .
Thank You Both,
Pat
SM#123 -----Original Message-----
From: Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2019 12:20 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler Pat,
Gary Silver uploaded a file with an excellent write-up on overhauling the Mizzen Furler called "SM Mizzen Furling Gearbox Overhaul". You can find it in the files section if you search for "SM Mizzen Furling Gearbox Overhaul" or find the link at the bottom of this post: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/48035?p=,,,20,0,0,0::Created,,gary+silver+mizzen,20,2,0,34250823 -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA |
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Re: Mizzen furler
Patrick McAneny
Danny, I think you may be onto something, last week I only had a few minutes to deal with the furler and it appeared that the swivel moved freely. Today I discovered that it only rotated freely an inch or so in either direction and stopped ,so I assumed my problem was elsewhere. I doused it with water and with winch handle was able to get it to rotate ,although it comes to a spot and wants to stop ,but with a little more effort it moves past that spot. I will douse it again with warm water and then lubricate it . have you ever added any grease to the gearbox?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans -----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2019 11:55 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler Hi Pat,
"Gob smacked" is a Kiwi colloquialism (saying) for very, totally, completely, utterly amazed. (and any other adjectives you can think of) The salt levels in the Caribbean are higher, or so it seemed to my observation. The build up of salt on the rails and the rust on stainless is much greater than other places. You have just had a season there which is why i am sure it is salt causing your "never before" problem. The tropical Pacific has similar salt issues and I find the same sort of thing affecting furlers, blocks, cars and anything else that moves. Many SM owners including me have found the mizzen hard to unfurl requiring some effort on the winch handles. Now I have eliminated the salt from all those points mine unfurls with a tug on the outhaul line, no winch winding needed, on either the outhaul or the gearbox.
I was "gob smacked"
Cheers
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 28 November 2019 at 02:40 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote: |
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Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem
Duane Siegfri
Thanks for the replies! I have used the toothpick trick at home many times, why not here!
Duane |
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Re: Later model 54 & possibly 55 Furling Motor Seal Question
Hi Bill,
I have just had this problem. My in-main-mast-furler from 2010 was blocking (September in Ponta Delagada) due to a broken lip seal. The lip seal did break into pieces, did fall apart and water came in. Because of the lack of a purge (construction fault!) water did stay in the brake in the lower part of the furler cylinder and did corrode the brake up to compolete blocking. I have learned from Amel Yacht Owners Forum that this happens frequently. I received soon a new furler from Amel (2,5 k€) which has a shaft seal instead of the lip seal and a purge at the bottom. Much better. Thomas Dargel from Boat&Sail Service in Ponta Delagada did an excellent job in repairing the system for me: He did install 2 shaft seals instead of the lip seal, a purge near the bottom and he did re-activate the corroded brake. It needs a carefull synchronisation with the furler engine . Thomas did also find out the source of the brake and the exact part number. The manufacturer of the furler LEROY SOMER did not sell the brakes separately for selling complete systems. Bad business as usual :-). I did give this information to Maud Tuillaud from SAV AMEL. I give it to everybody who wants to have it. My decision is for my ship to re-install the old repaired furler - and have the new one as a spare part onboard. My advice to you is … do the same as Thomas did: Throw away the lip seal and find someone with a lathe to open the top platein a way that you can install 1 or even better 2 shaft seals. Always water runs down the sail exactly on to the middle of the furler engine. The lip sail is not sufficient and a stable solution. If you require any further details contact me. Alexander SY Oceanica I - Amel54 #156 |
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Re: Mizzen furler
Mark McGovern
Pat,
Gary Silver uploaded a file with an excellent write-up on overhauling the Mizzen Furler called "SM Mizzen Furling Gearbox Overhaul". You can find it in the files section if you search for "SM Mizzen Furling Gearbox Overhaul" or find the link at the bottom of this post: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/48035?p=,,,20,0,0,0::Created,,gary+silver+mizzen,20,2,0,34250823 -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA |
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Re: Mizzen furler
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Pat, "Gob smacked" is a Kiwi colloquialism (saying) for very, totally, completely, utterly amazed. (and any other adjectives you can think of) The salt levels in the Caribbean are higher, or so it seemed to my observation. The build up of salt on the rails and the rust on stainless is much greater than other places. You have just had a season there which is why i am sure it is salt causing your "never before" problem. The tropical Pacific has similar salt issues and I find the same sort of thing affecting furlers, blocks, cars and anything else that moves. Many SM owners including me have found the mizzen hard to unfurl requiring some effort on the winch handles. Now I have eliminated the salt from all those points mine unfurls with a tug on the outhaul line, no winch winding needed, on either the outhaul or the gearbox. I was "gob smacked" Cheers Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl On 28 November 2019 at 02:40 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote: |
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Re: Bimini Twist Lock Fastener
rossirossix4
Related--does anyone know a source for the white plastic fasteners that were used on the dodgers of many SMs and SNs? They featured a tap that slid in to lock to the pin. One of the advantages of these is that they held the canvas flat and very close to the fixed dodger sides. Not at the boat so I don't have a pic.
Bob KAIMI SM 429 |
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Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem
amelforme
Hi Duane. I used wooden toothpicks, preferably the tapered variety. Dip the ends that will go in the hole with any flexible waterproof glue. When it sets up, cut the ends that extend outside the hole flush. If you get it right, no pilot hole needed and the screws will hold tight as originally. The waterproof glue seals the hardwood toothpicks so the repair lasts a long time. All three Amel’s I’ve owned have this repair and so far nobody is complaining…
You and Peg have a great Thanksgiving, Joel
JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C. THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
I have a few loose screws in the stainless steel portlights. I need to add something to make the screw tight. These are very short wood screws (only two or three threads). |
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Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install
Thanks Alan, That's helpful about the LN175 not being continuously rated. I had not seen that. In fact had seen that large body alternators loke the LN175 were better for handling the load. That said, the WS500 regulator monitors both voltage and current at the battery and has a dip switch which will limit the alternator to 75% current output, it also has a temperature monitor that bolts onto one of the lugs which will also limits output based on alternator temperature. And finally I will have a switch that I can flip to force the alternator into float mode. I will review the previous posts and pictures to see if there is anything that I have missed. Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM# 387 On Wed, Nov 27, 2019, 12:01 AM Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@... wrote: Dan |
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Re: Loose screws in portlight stainless trem
Mark McGovern
Duane,
I second Craig's suggestion. Plus, if it fails in less than 50 years Craig will come and personally fix it for you. ;) 3M 5200 is known as "The Devil's Glue" and should really only be used on things that you never, ever, want to take apart again. Offhand, I can't think of a single place on my SM that I would use it in place of something that is almost as strong but way more removable like 3M 4200. Here's a pretty good article on marine adhesives from Practical Sailor: https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_8/features/Marine-Adhesives-Caulks_5953-1.html -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA |
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Re: Mizzen furler
Patrick McAneny
Danny, I wish we had not already drained our water system, the marina has as well, its starting to get cold here.I think I will take the gearbox apart and take home ,clean & grease. I may pull the masts to put the boat in a shed for repairs and to be repainted this winter . I am not really sure I want to be " gob smacked " ,sounds painful , but being married I am use to abuse, and if the mizzen furls easier that it might be worth it .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans -----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 8:17 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler Hi Pat,
Almost certain to be salt build up. The carribean salt is brutal. Rinse all moving parts with floods of fresh water. Over the top of the gearbox,up the input shaft, the swivel or spinner as I call it at the top of the sail. (Lower it first). all blocks, cars, turning blocks. Allow to dry and liberally apply silicone spray. You will be gob smacked at the result. To unfurl my mizzen since I did this I just pull the out haul by hand and brrrrrrt out it goes. I know its too simple and I expect some cynicism, but give it a try.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 27 November 2019 at 08:34 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote: |
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Re: Leece -Neville Alternator external regulator install
Dan
I'm pretty sure that Bill and I put up all the relevant stuff. I did it with a Next Step reg, but basically the wiring will be similar. The wire you need is the field connection from the alternator, that's what the reg uses to control alternator output. One caveat on this whole scenario is that you need to realise that the LN 175A alternator is not continuously rated So, with a 3 stage reg, if your batteries are quite discharged, the reg could command full output from the alternator and if your batteries are able to accept 175A, that's what you'll get... For a while until the alternator burns out! Solution is to also run the genset and the 100A charger until the charging current gets down to about 100A them turn off the genset. Best solution is actually to change the alternator to an Idlepro Extreme or. Delstar, both of which can put out around 200A at just above idle. You don't need to ask how I know this! Good luck Alan Elyse SM 437 |
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Re: Mizzen furler
James Alton
Pat and Craig,
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That is very interesting that apparently the SM and SN do not have any kind of top bearing for the main and mizzen furler extrusions, I learned something too! My boat does have a bearing of some sort at the top, I have not gotten in there yet to see what it is. If I drop the gear box and disengage it from the extrusion it just hangs there from the top bearing/pivot. My boat is the Maramu so apparently was built differently. Best of luck Pat with solving your problem. James Maramu #220
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Re: Mizzen furler
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Pat, Almost certain to be salt build up. The carribean salt is brutal. Rinse all moving parts with floods of fresh water. Over the top of the gearbox,up the input shaft, the swivel or spinner as I call it at the top of the sail. (Lower it first). all blocks, cars, turning blocks. Allow to dry and liberally apply silicone spray. You will be gob smacked at the result. To unfurl my mizzen since I did this I just pull the out haul by hand and brrrrrrt out it goes. I know its too simple and I expect some cynicism, but give it a try. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl On 27 November 2019 at 08:34 "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...> wrote: |
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Re: Mizzen furler
Patrick McAneny
Craig, I assumed that there had to be a bearing at the top of the extrusion and did not realize the swizel served double duty . That is a very helpful piece of info ,and yes I did get the sail down. I guess that is all I need to know ,looks like a gearbox problem.
Thank You,
Pat
SM Shenanigans -----Original Message-----
From: Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 6:17 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen furler Hi Pat,
There is not an upper extrusion bearing up there - it's just the swivel that centers the furling extrusion when the sail is up. With the sail down the extrusion just bangs around freely. Same as the mainsail. Not sure from your post if you got the sail down - sounds like you did - so if it is still binding with the sail down it has to be at the bottom. Sounds like you're not in desperate aesthetic need to repaint so the economical choice may be to leave the masts up and work on the bottom in situ. Fwiw, Craig |
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Re: Bimini Twist Lock Fastener
Will Stout <tango708@...>
Hi Paul,
I am fairly certain that you will find the twist lock at Grenadine Sails and Canvass in Bequia. Avell and Debora have a web site through which you can contact them. They do excellent work... definitely make the best and least expensive dinghy chap I found in the Caribbean. Will Stout SM 180, For Sale in The Chesapeake /)/) Anni Bea True Amel Super Maramu +206.841.9556 |
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