Date   

Re: Chain Counter

Thomas Kleman
 

The only thing I would add is that this is an item that you buy 2 at a time. Put one away with your spares and notes on this project. It will next break when you are in Bora Bora.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
L'ORIENT
Bora Bora, FP


Re: VHF antennas

Scott SV Tengah
 

That was my assessment when I ran the RG-8X with the mast up. We actually tried to feed some LMR-400 through after the fact and it was nearly impossible. I ran RG-8X all the way to the VHF to replace the super thin RG-58u that Amel put in originally. Getting the Rg-8x through the boat from the base of the mast to the VHF wasn't super easy either. Perhaps you can do it with LMR-400, but I wouldn't want to try and risk breaking things inside the little conduits inside the boat.

If I ever need to remove the mast, I will cut the rg-8x and add more splices and the connector. It's not difficult but no need to add those lossy connectors for now, IMO. 

On Fri, Jun 25, 2021 at 10:47 PM Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,

That is really helpful, thank you. It is difficult to see how even 6mm cable would be easily run given the setup at the bottom of the masts. On the basis of what you have said I will wait until the masts are down to replace the cables.  There are some other jobs that can be done at the same time. 

Did you leave enough cable at the bottom of the masts to reach the nav station or did you put in a connector near the bases?

Thanks again.
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Chain Counter

Thomas Peacock
 

Hi Bill,

We had a similar problem on SM 240. Using the chain counter would trip the 24V->12V converter under the nav station. I can’t remember the exact wiring diagram, but the wires indeed run from the chain counter back, I’m not sure if they connect to the small box above the galley by the autohelm, or if they connect to the contacts under the joystick in the cockpit. And, indeed, they do draw their power from the converter under the nav station. 

Assuming the wires are not shorted themselves, the most iikely culprit is the proximity sensor right by the windlass. Ours was blown, and replacing it fixed the problem. You could try disconnecting the sensor, make sure your converter is working, and then test the voltage by the windlass. If indeed your sensor is bad, you can purchase a new one: IB 5072, made by IFM.  I bought it in the US from Radwell; however, IFM is a German company; if you are in the EU you might be able to buy directly from IFM or a European distributor. There is more chatter from me on this site from May 2019 that may be helpful to you. Good luck!

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

On Jun 25, 2021, at 2:48 PM, william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:

My chain counter, which was working properly, suddenly ceased to function.
There are no wiring diagrams that I can find. I searched the Amel site and found several hundred threads but no wiring diagrams. I tried to trace the associated wiring but what I found was a plethora of non associated wires.
The wires to the sensor on the  windless were blue, brown and a yellow/green bonding/ground wire. These led to the area in the fwd cabin where the relays for the windlass were and then  disappeared forward never to be seen again.
In the area above the sink, to the left of the steering rack is a box labeled "computer of the chain. There were 2 large black cables with #16 - green, white and black wires within that went to the counter above on the panel. These connected to smaller grey cables at a terminal strip which then disappeared into a large bundle and I ASSUME go the the chain counter box below the nav station. I when I checked the fuse on the box labled "chain computer" all the instruments quit!
The boxes under the nav station were Newmar equipment and labled VHF radio, full time dc to dc (24 to12 volt) and Hydra/chain computer. The wires from the box above the sink terminate here somehow. Anyone have a clue as the schematic or wiring diagram. There is a switch on the "chain comp. box that turns off the chain computer AND all the instruments.  You have to kill all the instruments to work on the windlass. Not good if you are underway.
Any information out there??
Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: VHF antennas

Mark Barter
 

Hi Mark,

That is really helpful, thank you. It is difficult to see how even 6mm cable would be easily run given the setup at the bottom of the masts. On the basis of what you have said I will wait until the masts are down to replace the cables.  There are some other jobs that can be done at the same time. 

Did you leave enough cable at the bottom of the masts to reach the nav station or did you put in a connector near the bases?

Thanks again.
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: VHF antennas

Mark McGovern
 
Edited

Mark,

I successfully ran LMR-400-UF (Ultraflexible) down both the Mizzen and the Main for AIS and for VHF so it can be done.  I was actually even able to run a third length of it down the Mizzen mast for a Wilson Omni Directional Cellular in the Mizzen and one in the Main.  However a few big caveats:

1.  I had the masts down on the ground, not stepped on the boat.  This gave me much better access for pulling the cables than you will have with the masts stepped.  I could basically pull the cables out the hole in the bottom of the mast.  See the picture below:



Obviously, with the mast stepped, you don't have this access.  At the base of each mast you only have the small access ports from which to either feed or pull the cables.  And that access is tight.  Real tight.  If you have not done so, remove the cover and see for yourself.  Yes, you can pull the cables straight out the top of the mast with the cables stepped, but having worked at the top of the mast I can say with certainty that it will not be nearly as easy as doing it standing on solid ground.

2.  I removed a bunch of unused cables from the cable chases in the masts before I ran anything.  I removed:

  • TV antenna cable
  • AM/FM antenna cable
  • Furuno Weather Fax cable
  • Radar cable (I replaced this cable but I ran it up the mast last after I ran all the other cables)
This gave me more room in the cable chase and way less cable on cable friction when pulling the fat 10mm OD LMR-400-UF cables trough the chases.

Other things I learned doing this:

  • Don't count on using the pre-run mouse lines that Amel so kindly left inside the mast to pull cables.  Mine were either already broken from UV degradation or broke the first time I tried to use them. I ran new ones using a fish tape on the mizzen and using the TV antenna that I was removing on the main.  When you are done, be kind to yourself or the next owner and re-run new mouse lines.
  • You will need to remove the lines with the sound deadening foam "bowties" before doing anything.  Be prepared to make new ones to replace these as these lines may be broken already or might break when you try to remove them.  It is NOT optional to replace these.  Others have done so and had the cables "clanging" in a rolly anchorage.  If you are not sure what these are, see this post:  https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/56460
  • Use a cable lubricant when pulling the cables.  I used a product called Aqua Gel II Wire Pulling Lubricant from Home Depot. I got a quart for under $20 and still have ~80% of it left.  It is pretty amazing stuff.
  • At the bottom of the mast the cables all have to make a 180 degree turn to go back up and then another 180 degree turn to go back down the "stub" that is in each of the the mast steps where all the cables run down into the boat.  This 360 turn is essentially a drip loop and prevents water running down the cables and into the boat.  Below is a picture of the mast step so you visualize what I am talking about:



You can see these "stubs" by removing the access ports in the side of the masts.

To summarize:

You can install LMR-400-UF cable in Super Maramu Masts, however, I wouldn't try it with the masts up!  

Feel free to ask me any questions.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Chain Counter

william reynolds
 

My chain counter, which was working properly, suddenly ceased to function.
There are no wiring diagrams that I can find. I searched the Amel site and found several hundred threads but no wiring diagrams. I tried to trace the associated wiring but what I found was a plethora of non associated wires.
The wires to the sensor on the  windless were blue, brown and a yellow/green bonding/ground wire. These led to the area in the fwd cabin where the relays for the windlass were and then  disappeared forward never to be seen again.
In the area above the sink, to the left of the steering rack is a box labeled "computer of the chain. There were 2 large black cables with #16 - green, white and black wires within that went to the counter above on the panel. These connected to smaller grey cables at a terminal strip which then disappeared into a large bundle and I ASSUME go the the chain counter box below the nav station. I when I checked the fuse on the box labled "chain computer" all the instruments quit!
The boxes under the nav station were Newmar equipment and labled VHF radio, full time dc to dc (24 to12 volt) and Hydra/chain computer. The wires from the box above the sink terminate here somehow. Anyone have a clue as the schematic or wiring diagram. There is a switch on the "chain comp. box that turns off the chain computer AND all the instruments.  You have to kill all the instruments to work on the windlass. Not good if you are underway.
Any information out there??
Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Re: Rigging and Terminals

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Good to know Jarek.
Thanks for the reply.
Best.
Victor


Re: Rigging and Terminals

 

Mark is correct about using ACMO's Stainless Steel Turnbuckles with Bronze inserts. 

The reason that chrome-plated bronze is not desirable anymore is that the EPA in Europe and the USA has restricted the chrome-plating process and chemicals that were previously used are outlawed. This has made anything that is chrome-plated less desirable, especially in a marine environment. The same thing applies to chrome-plated bronze winches, etc.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jun 25, 2021 at 12:26 AM Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:
If going for ACMO, which I would do, just make sure you go with stainless for the body. The bronze ones tarnish quickly and can't be satisfactorily polished. 

ACMO's customer service is excellent. I am sure they will be able to advise you if you are at all unsure. 


--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: Rigging and Terminals

Jarek Zemlo
 

Victor Hi,

After purchasing my SM201 in 2020 I changed all for brand new BSI and it is superior quality. I considered ACMO but price/quality ratio was all in favour of BSI.

Jarek
SY NOA BLUE
SM 201


Re: Rigging and Terminals

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Thank you Mark.
Best


Re: Rigging and Terminals

Mark Barter
 

If going for ACMO, which I would do, just make sure you go with stainless for the body. The bronze ones tarnish quickly and can't be satisfactorily polished. 

ACMO's customer service is excellent. I am sure they will be able to advise you if you are at all unsure. 


--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: VHF antennas

Mark Barter
 

I think I am suffering from analysis paralysis. I have read that LMR-400 is superior to RG8-X especially where the cable run is over 20m but I am worried that LMR-400 maybe too thick to run down the mast. Once at the bottom of the mast I don't see any problem and I am not worried about the bend radius of either coax.

I have noted however that Scott seems to be more than happy with the results after using RG8-X so maybe LMR-400 is just overkill. Like I say, I maybe overthinking this. It is 6am and I have thought of little else since I woke at 5.  

Has anyone successfully run LMR-400 down the mast of a Super Maramu to the nav station? 


--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: VHF antennas

Scott SV Tengah
 

Porter, 

It's not the solder that's the issue. It's the design of the PL-259 plug used for VHF antennas. You just have to seal it well with self amalgamating tape and then a layer of good electrical tape. I even zip tied the electrical tape for good measure.

Some stuff the plug with silicone grease to remove all air pockets. But knowing how nothing sticks to silicone, I just put a little grease on the conductor and then wrapped the whole connector up really well. 

On Wed, Jun 23, 2021 at 12:17 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Is there a solder that is marine rated and less likely to participate in the ever present electrolytic process? 

Has anyone ever gold plated terminals or wire?  Would that help ( as gold is a highly noble metal) with corrosion in these important and hard-to-maintain locations?



Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

On Jun 24, 2021, at 7:15 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:


Mark,

I bought 43 meters of RG-8X and that was enough on my A54 to run new cable from:

(1) The vhf antenna at the top of the main all the way to the VHF headunit (NOT just the coupler at the mastbase inside the boat) 
(2) The ais antenna at the top of the mizzen down to just the coupler in the aft shower, at the mizzen mastbase.

I got mine from Davis RF in the US - cheapest I found for marine rated rg-8x. I can't imagine trying to squeeze thicker cable through the conduits, but I believe some others have tried and possibly even succeeded. The original A54 cable is much thinner RG-58, FYI.

Get real soldered PL-259 connectors and watch some youtube videos on how to do it. I rubber taped the connectors and then put 3M electrical tape over it. The PL-259 are not, by design, waterproof.

On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 8:50 PM Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:
If anybody has replaced their VHF cables could you tell me what lengths of cable were needed for the main and mizzen masts.

I am away from the boat at the moment but this is a job we need to do because our VHF reception is really poor. No doubt almost completely caused by me having to splice the cable after inadvertently cutting it!
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Steering Wheel Dimensions for new leather cover - AMEL Sharki?

Aras Grinius
 

bare metal was 22mm [rim] 24 with leather.  ALL dimensions are bare metal.
I think there might be some slight variation during manufacture of the wheel. 

Aras
Sharki #163 1988


On Thu, Jun 24, 2021 at 2:22 AM Johannes Schmidt <info@...> wrote:

Dear Aras,

thank you for submitting these measurements - just to be sure as you mentioned the leather - wrap with 2 mm:
Is the rim (and/or the other dimensions) therefore 24mm with or without the leather - or is 24mm already the final (blank) dimension? Typical rim / tube sizes are 22mm, 25mm, 28mm....

Thanks for a short verification!

Johannes



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Rigging and Terminals

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Thank you so much, Arno and Bill. 
This group is awesome! An endless well of valuable information...
Best.
Victor 


Re: Steering Wheel Dimensions for new leather cover - AMEL Sharki?

Johannes Schmidt
 

Dear Aras,

thank you for submitting these measurements - just to be sure as you mentioned the leather - wrap with 2 mm:
Is the rim (and/or the other dimensions) therefore 24mm with or without the leather - or is 24mm already the final (blank) dimension? Typical rim / tube sizes are 22mm, 25mm, 28mm....

Thanks for a short verification!

Johannes


Re: Running rigging

Drew Gaffney
 

Hi Bill,
I have the "running rigging llist on pg 19.  Is that the list you note above?
I think I'm a bit confused as the various brands and suppliers don't always include the actual type of material.
We're heading back to Sardinia next Wednesday and I was going to replace some of the older lines.
Thanks,
Drew 


Re: VHF antennas

Paul Harries
 


Re: Steering Wheel Dimensions for new leather cover - AMEL Sharki?

Aras Grinius
 

The wheel dimensions I measured are as follows:
Spokes at the hub 38mm
Spokes at the rim 18mm
Rim 24 mm

Leather wrap is 2mm

I hope this helps

Aras 
Sharkli #163 1988


On Mon, Jun 21, 2021 at 3:40 AM Johannes Schmidt <info@...> wrote:
Dear Aras,
Thank you for your offer to further support in this matter. I am still a little unsure about the exact diameter of the tube. Do you have a chance to take the dimensions of the tube without a cover - ideally with a caliper? I have found a possible product, so in addition to the exact tube diameter, I mainly need the dimensions of the spokes: The diameter - on the outside - junction point to the circle, as well as the diameter of the spokes 10 cm further inside - as the spokes are conical .

To make things easier, here is the link to the product we're looking for: Skincloshop

Thanks in advance!

Johannes

Many ThanksOn Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 09:01 PM, Aras Grinius wrote:
Johannes,
 
Are you still stuck on the dimensions of the wheel?
I can go and measure mine.
 
Aras 
Sharki #163

On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 3:36 AM Johannes Schmidt <info@...> wrote:
Dear Greg,

I did receive your fabulous message and replied to say thanks a lot - didn't you get this?

Please look up your Junk folders too - I recently got messages that I get (false positively) suspected.

Thanks again for your help!

Johannes 

 

 


 
--
Aras Grinius



--
Aras Grinius


Re: VHF antennas

Porter McRoberts
 

Is there a solder that is marine rated and less likely to participate in the ever present electrolytic process? 

Has anyone ever gold plated terminals or wire?  Would that help ( as gold is a highly noble metal) with corrosion in these important and hard-to-maintain locations?



Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Jun 24, 2021, at 7:15 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:


Mark,

I bought 43 meters of RG-8X and that was enough on my A54 to run new cable from:

(1) The vhf antenna at the top of the main all the way to the VHF headunit (NOT just the coupler at the mastbase inside the boat) 
(2) The ais antenna at the top of the mizzen down to just the coupler in the aft shower, at the mizzen mastbase.

I got mine from Davis RF in the US - cheapest I found for marine rated rg-8x. I can't imagine trying to squeeze thicker cable through the conduits, but I believe some others have tried and possibly even succeeded. The original A54 cable is much thinner RG-58, FYI.

Get real soldered PL-259 connectors and watch some youtube videos on how to do it. I rubber taped the connectors and then put 3M electrical tape over it. The PL-259 are not, by design, waterproof.

On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 8:50 PM Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:
If anybody has replaced their VHF cables could you tell me what lengths of cable were needed for the main and mizzen masts.

I am away from the boat at the moment but this is a job we need to do because our VHF reception is really poor. No doubt almost completely caused by me having to splice the cable after inadvertently cutting it!
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

1961 - 1980 of 60597