Hello Bill K, I have a vintage SM. Hull 007! … as expected, both my units went to the big battery charger in the sky … I replaced with one 60 amp Cotek and a Mastervolt 50 amp. Like Ben, I

Oops, I meant to say the factory outlet and switch are in the starboard locker; the Shurflo itself is on the factory location, a port shelf outboard of the watermaker pre filters and above the anchor

Shurflo Pro Blaster II 4258-163-E09 24V 7 Amps Max 5 GPM 60 PSI When we bought hull No. 350 five years ago, the factory wash down pump (located in the small starboard locker, adjacent to the deck

A couple of related things. These are probably not solutions to your problem but might be helpful in future searches. A couple of days ago my anchor wash pump was stuck, just flipped the breaker when

Bill, Both my Dolphin units died, one at a time. I replaced the smaller one with a 30 A Promariner Pronautic 2430P The larger one with a 24V 100A Victron Skylla. I have AGM batteries also and their

Bill Both my original units failed: 50 amp and 30 amp Dolphins. I replaced with two 60 amp Master-volts. I briefly considered a 100 Amp Master-volt unit but original wiring size would not support

It's getting time to update our 220V/24V charging systems, and I am hoping the collective wisdom here can shorten my research efforts. Our current system is a mish-mash of original and replacement

For that price, they better be very, very special indeed. I wonder what the works out to on a $/gram basis? For my money, I'd try the hardware store washer. If it doesn't work well, or dies an early

Stephan, I love the Water Puppy pumps and have used them for everything from shower sump pumps to bilge pumps, and it will be perfect for people who only use the original Amel installed outlet for the

Copper is 40 times better electrical conductor than stainless steel. Vladimir SM # 345 "Life is Good" 202 258 1916

Hi all, I need advice on the wiring of a new solenoid for the Onan generator te replace a faulty original one. The original had three connection points: 12 VDC plus, negative and Aux. The new one

Peter Forbes 00447836 209730 Begin forwarded message:

Hi all, Here’s another idea to keep the copper longer alive. Fair winds Olaf

Bill, Re Harvey. I hope that you have some high ground. Stay safe. Using thicker copper sounds like a good solution to me. Using stainless as wire to carry low voltage does not seem like a good

Stephen, Since you can no longer buy the original, I would use this

Alain, Thank you for posting this information. I know several people who have used Stainless Steel rather than Copper. BUT, you know that I (Mr. "keep it original") will have more to say about this

I was wondering if anyone knows if there is anything special about the friction washers on the hatches. I just got a price of $35. plus $14 shipping for four plastic washers from Rig-Rite. Is there

Further investigation shows the part to be indeed simply a race bearing. The "eccentric pin" is the part which allows the bearing to tension the belt. Seeking info now from Bamar about whether this

So, I've now packed the aft facing gearbox with grease. There was not much in there, probably just enough. The noise has not changed. Still noisy. So, I've investigated the drive belt arrangement,