If you search back in the archives about 15 years ago there was a post of the measurements and bends of the strap. The thicker the better for that strap. I cut off the top of the corroded strap with

Hi Jose, If yours are the same as ours, they're 125 mm diameter with a hole for an M10 bolt (11 mm hole). In the US, they're available from BoatZincs, where for some reason they're marketed

Oliver, I found a 2" x 1./8" X 60 " long flat copper bar at McMaster Carr for like $85 ,which should do the job nicely. Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans

Hello, It might be better to oversize the new strap. A flattened 1" plumming copper pipe will do the job. I would also install the upper end where you fix the bonding cables 10" higher so that they

Mark, That is just what I needed ,I did not think to look in the photo section. Much Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans

Pat, I think the picture that you are looking for is in the Photos section of the forum, not the Files section. Look in the folder called "Bonding System - Bilge Ground Strap" and you will find

Kent See the picture of a new heater for a Quick boiler. There is an U-shaped pipe with the heater element, a straight pipe for the thermostat and the thicker item is the zinc element. I do not see

I would like to purchase a copper strap to replace the original bonding strap. I looked in the files but could not find the original size used by Amel. Could someone provide me the width ,thickness

Hi Amelians, It's my first time to change the anodes in my SM. I couldn't find the specification on Amel manual. Any suggestion? -- Jose Prieto SV Wayag, SM 323 Currently Alicante, Spain

Hi Arno, You mean that on can rise and lower the ballooner separate from the genoa ? Which mean that when the genoa is up and flying. On our Mango we used the ballooner on ocean crossings but we used

The French Carribean islands, as well as French Polynesia, are under the American buoyage system. It's a legacy of the American "occupation" of these French territories during the Second World War.

Former housekeeper's lemma, "If you can't see it, it's clean."

The isotemp unit is supposed to be the best. I didn’t want to spend the money on my previous boat, so installed a new superstore hot water heater. 19 years later, it’s still working fine, with its

Hello Thanks for your responses. We managed to source an equivalent of the pipe locally. The one sold and installed by dessalator is made by zec. Full specs

I second Tom’s opinion. When our element went out in 2016 (8 year old water heater), we decided to change for new. It was a 4 hour job, but hopefully don’t have to deal with this issue for another

Hi Kent, I would not pursue things further. Just “Google” pictures of what the inside of most water heaters look like after a few years. As my kids say, “Don’t go there”. That’s one reason

Reminder: ZOOM Meeting Marine Insurance presentation Questions & Answers When: Saturday, 6 June 2020, 20:00 to 21:00, (GMT+00:00) UTC An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP Description: I

Thanks Gerhard, I'm afraid I probably understated the condition of the zinc and heating element. Here's a pic. I also got a better look inside the tank today, and it's pretty nasty. I have to clean

https://www.cruisingworld.com/red-right-returning/ BVI also follows US system. --

And the Caribbean