Hi Thomas, Yes, that's how they come out, which is good as you are now rid of all the old rotted wood. After sanding and cleaning that lip and 3-ish inches up on the hull, I applied a generous amount

Is it possible to cut 3” wide stripes of the marine plywood. (theymay not need to be this wide) cut to length. Resin these to the hull andbulkhead making a new shelf. You will probably have to grind

Day 1 of the bow locker floor replacement. I'm reminded of the elder Moltke's tenet that no plan survives first contact with the enemy. As I cut the port bow locker's floor out, the 3 inch lip I was

When we purchased RK she was equipped with the zinc on the auto prop and the bonding system was tested and intact. A short time after moving aboard, I noticed the main bonding wire had become detached

Thomas, PVC could work but I was envisioning using a more slippery plastic than PVC for the sacrificial plastic bushing. Perhaps Nylon? I would suggest shaping the part without any square edges

Thanks Ian. I am struggling to get to grips with the electrical system. The engine/starboard alternator is charging but not sure about the domestic/port alternator and I dont really understand the

James- I like your idea, although it sends me on a 45 minute bone jarring cab ride here in Colon, Panama to a ferreteria. Would you make it out of pvc or something else ?

Mark On my Santorin you have to put the key in and switch on (next to your ameter). The green light comes on. It sends a current to the alternator to excite it and start it charging. You should turn

This is the set up on Sharki #96 Sea Hobo. I can't detect any charge at all, but it is very smooth. Mark Sent from my Samsung device

I did think of one reason to use plastic/PVC/FRP for the hawse pipe; at night in a rolling anchorage you won't be as likely to hear the clanking of the anchor chain in the hawse pipe. ;-) Gary

Jose, The original finish for the faux teak and the stripes were done originally in Polyester gel coat. Apparently the stripes were hand painted in according to what I have read recently. Awl

Thanks Bill, you're likely right. But I am going to reach out to Marco to see what they say. I wanted to open it but the manual clearly states that the warranty becomes void if I try to service it!

That's right, the MASS light is lit up when I go to the "+" side. There is 25-26v if I touch one multimeter lead to the pump body and the other to battery negative. Currently I've disconnected the

I would love to know as well...

Craig, Correct, I meant all Amels delivered with an AutoProp. Sorry for the confusion I may have caused. Best, Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St. Galveston, Texas 77550 832-380-4970 My Calendar Yacht School

Hi Gary et al, The bolt in question is the starboard aft position. Without it in place and the winch loaded up the whole winch moved so it isn't a question of where was the deck flexing. The body of

Hi Alan, Per earlier post in this thread, I did this with PVC, no flanges (as the original had none), just glassed in with good fillets on underside of deck and top of locker floor. Perfect for 3

Point well taken, Bill, although my Santorin was delivered with a fixed 3-blade prob with a conical bronze nut holding it onto the prop shaft. I don't think Amel put Auto-props on the Santorins as the

Hi Danny: Thanks for that re-iteration. Can you describe in more detail where the deck was flexing? Was it just at the bolt location or over a wider area? The deck is stiffened also by the vertical

Hi All, I am taking the very unusual step of repeating my recent information. On SM 299 the steel hawse pipe and its upper flange are an integral part of securing the anchor winch through the bolt