That's right, the MASS light is lit up when I go to the "+" side. There is 25-26v if I touch one multimeter lead to the pump body and the other to battery negative. Currently I've disconnected the

I would love to know as well...

Craig, Correct, I meant all Amels delivered with an AutoProp. Sorry for the confusion I may have caused. Best, Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St. Galveston, Texas 77550 832-380-4970 My Calendar Yacht School

Hi Gary et al, The bolt in question is the starboard aft position. Without it in place and the winch loaded up the whole winch moved so it isn't a question of where was the deck flexing. The body of

Hi Alan, Per earlier post in this thread, I did this with PVC, no flanges (as the original had none), just glassed in with good fillets on underside of deck and top of locker floor. Perfect for 3

Point well taken, Bill, although my Santorin was delivered with a fixed 3-blade prob with a conical bronze nut holding it onto the prop shaft. I don't think Amel put Auto-props on the Santorins as the

Hi Danny: Thanks for that re-iteration. Can you describe in more detail where the deck was flexing? Was it just at the bolt location or over a wider area? The deck is stiffened also by the vertical

Hi All, I am taking the very unusual step of repeating my recent information. On SM 299 the steel hawse pipe and its upper flange are an integral part of securing the anchor winch through the bolt

Bill, I had a look at the manuals for the UP6/E and MASS+ and the associated PCS, and it is clear from the pictures of the PCS circuit board that the RJ11 (phone not ethernet) jack is sending digital

Hi Alan: I am surprised to hear of number of boats affected. It seems this is a common failure mode. I have not done mine. I only discovered the problem when I spent a couple of days inside both of

Gary, thank you for starting this thread. I am also getting ready to take on this project. I am interested to hear if anyone has actually done this yet and what the results have been. I do have to

Alessandro, All Santorins, Super Maramus, 54s, and 55s were delivered new from Amel with a plastic cap. They were all red, except possibly late model 54s and all 55s which were black. The Amel

Thomas,Your post about making replacement of the PVC tube very easy got me to thinking about how this could be done. What if instead of planning to replace the PVC tube, a simple sacrificial flanged

If I understood properly you suggest don’t use zinc in the propeller, isn’t it?

Oliver, Thank you for taking the time to add your wisdom to the discussion. I am very happy with the heavily glassed fibreglass tubes in my boat such as the cockpit drains. It is so nice that by

Dear Amelian brother and sisters: What kind of paint has been used for the faux teak boards? Is there Awlgrip paint colors for the faux teak boards and for the rest of deck? If not what

Craig- my upper flange will be water-tight and glued/glassed to the underside of the deck under the windlass. It fits tightly inside the pipe; thus a water-tight joint unless water can flow upwards.

Scott, Marco says, "No, we did not have a way to suggest wiring, the only option we have available is the PCS for the pump." I believe that one of the wires inside the ethernet cable from the pump is

Alessandro, The photo did not work. I am not sure why, but attached is a PDF Best, Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St. Galveston, Texas 77550 832-380-4970 My Calendar Yacht School

Alessandro, When your SM was new, it had no zinc on the propellor. It had a red plastic cap (see attached and look in your Amel Manual). There are two sides of the issue "for and against zincs on